Ive done marbleizing and this is the simplest yet natural looking technique not to mention using water down paint and no glaze. Floor wax to seal and protect damn thats a great idea!!! Thanks fellas!!!!
Unbelievably simple and quick! As a fine artist, I've spent hours layering paints to create the same look. I'm just sitting here shaking my head in disbelief right now. The posiblities are staggering. I could even see myself using this technique to completely transform my home into an ancient greek baths or something, all granite and marble. LOL Think you'd consider hiring a 48 year old artist?
Thanks for showing this method on a 4'x8' scale! So many videos show small size sampling which doesn't necessarily scale well for large scenic projects. Wonderful demonstration!
There are some great techniques for marble on a vertical surface but the best natural look is doing it down. I would suggest getting some inexpensive panelling and then installing it with the marble done. I will post a video of the other type as soon as I have to produce it. Watch the CW new show "The Tomorrow People" to see some great faux painting. New this fall.
I'm glad you asked. I get a lot of comments saying " what chemical was that?" In Canada we have methyl hydrate. It's what you would clean brushes used in shellac. In the US it's called denatured alcohol.
Did you spray water on the panel before you put the 2nd and 3rd grey color on? I just finished putting the first coat of grey on and it looks so good already. So excited for this project to be successful. Thanks for the great instructions.
Awesome job, Vaughan! I keep watching it to get all the details to paint a whole concrete floor. Some things I still try to grok is, 1. was the bottom double eggshell coat dry or wet when the drizzled water /first grey paint came on it? 2. "Thinned down 80% with water" stands for 80% paint, or 80% water? I presume 80% paint, just making completely sure 3. Does the floor wax need to dry or stand before the final epoxy comes on top? 4. Are there shoes or shoe accessories to not leave footprints on the floor in progress? Or "always paint walking backwards" is the only thing to do. Thank you
Floor wax can hold up for a long time but does need to be re coated more often than poly. However it's harder to get the slick smooth surface with poly. Benny Moore stays clear is my favorite. Thanks for leaving a comment.
does the floor wax protect the surface long term? if not, would I put poly on top of floor wax or alone? loved your technique and finished product. turns out so beautiful.
Great technique! Is there a way that I could use acrlyc paints rather than latex? Can you suggest media that can dilute or "weaken"" acrylic paints just like methyl hydrate for latex?
Hi Vaughan.Thank you so much for sharing your time and your talents. It's a great opportunity for those of us who want to try to create faux finishes on surfaces in our home, and yet we were afraid to try...til you made it look so easy. What you have done looks absolutely incredible! I was hoping you could give me a little advice...I know my application is a bit different. My husband and I have put a waterproof cementitious coating on our balcony. We applied a water based acrylic top coat Westcoat SC-10 cutting it about 20% with water. It's industrial grade and has a bit more acrylic in it than most acrylic paints. I have taken other colors of their SC-10 and diluted them about 75-80% to create the marble finish. Here are my questions:1) Your board seems really wet when do the veining layer. Do you spritz water on each layer? or, is it just the background layer?2) How do you avoid getting "roller marks"?3) I picked up 3 different types of 6" whiz rollers....(microfiber deck/masonary, ceiling, and foam smooth surfaces). The foam didn't work at all ...just smeared everything. The 2 microfiber rollers worked better but I got more of a colorwash-look during the veining layer with harsh looking dots (not softened as your video shows), along with a lot of roller marks. I did not spritz this layer with water, as your video did not say to do so and because of the dilution rate of the paint, it seemed like it was wet enough...I squeezed the roller out several times during the process. I'm wondering if there might be too much acrylic in the product we're using, which makes it more viscous, could that be causing the color-wash appearance (lack of veins) with dots? Or??? Should I thin it out to 85-90%? Or, possibly lessen the thinning of the paint? Any thoughts or advice? Vaughan, thanks again for making these how-to videos...we appreciate all your efforts! It's fun trying new things. And, thanks in advance for any insight, thoughts or advice regarding my application.
Sherry Purser yes there is water spritzed to help separate the paint. There's enough water on the surface that when you use the Wiz roller and lightly roll the shapes that they will blend. It's a matter of getting the right consistency in your colors like you said 70 to 80% and then moving them around with a light enough touch. Once you have your little shapes you can always shoot them with a spritzer if you see anything that looks like roller mark. This will help them look more organic. I always suggest that people do a sample from start to finish on another panel somewhere else. Many people jump right into the job and get discouraged when it doesn't go right. I've been doing this for 30 years and I still do a complete sample. This ensures that when I get to the finished product everything is streamline and controlled.
Thanks Vaughan. I will try your suggestions. I should have told you that I tried 2 test boards 4 x 8. The first, I used a latex base coat with acrylic samples of the sc-10,, because we didn't want to open the 5 gal. buckets. :) That turned out okay for a first shot. But, then I tried it with the acrylic sc-10 base coat and it turned out more like a colorwash when I tried to do the veining. So, I thought I might need to do something different using acrylics on acrylic. I appreciate your suggestions...I will play with the dilution rate and spritzing after rolling and definitely a lighter touch...maybe I was too anxious. :) LOL! Since it's our balcony...I have all the time in the world...if I screw up, I can just cover it up with another base coat...that's the beauty of paint. I've never really liked painting before...but, this is FUN, trying to create a faux finish of natural stone...I love it! Vaughan, thank you for taking the time to answer my queries and for creating a youtube channel...it's AWESOME that you share your talents of 30 years experience with us. I look forward to seeing more of your videos. Again, THANK YOU!!!
Gosh, I think I might try this - I wanted to do a faux marble on a plank that I want to use as a "counter" for a pass-thru to my dining room - nothing for food prep or much use - usually just have a few herb pots on it. I'm guessing this'd be OK on wood too, as long as it has that eggshell painted surface first ... but can you tell me the type of roller? It sounded like"riz." Thanks!
This work is simply amazing. A Canadian at best. So proud of you. I want to ask about the sealer or topcoat to use for countertop. What do you personally recommend - epoxy, poly or urethane? I am all ears. Hope to hear from you. Thanks.
+Ann Shr For a countertop I would recommend a 2 part epoxy suitable for food prep area. The others would hold up for a while but with water and such your better off with epoxy.
Fantastic! is there a similar substitute for the floor wax to be used for a laminate countertop ? does the paint have to be oil based with the denatured alcohol ? would acrylic paint work if I used water as a spritzer? cant wait to try .. if the floor wax is suitable for the counter top could you tell me the brand and where I can buy it? thanks so much I love the informative short and sweet to the point tutorial!!!
Hey Vaughan,love your work. Im in England and cant really find latex paint.Were can i find latex online.We use acrylic paints over here,and the closet i can find is a Matt finish.
latex is water based all around so anything latex would be considered acrylic. paint has evolved over the years. you can get water based alykd paint now but rather just stick to oil base paints if that's your thing. water based latex acrylic paint is fun and easy to clean but would personally prefer doing oil base paints with marbleizing. you can create way more depth and contrast with oil base paints because they move more freely on your working space and can manipulate it much better. for big areas modern masters extender is suggested for more working time and to prevent lap lines like on columns and specific pieces of furniture, counter-tops, etc. on walls its ideal to have slabs of penciled off squared pieces or if youre feeling ballsy paint the whole wall marble. fuck it. keep in mind the types of primer you use is very very important to the before and after of what you do. professionals will tell you to prime it with your base coat but that's wrong and a poor way to prep rather than just tinting your satin based primer to your base coat and working from there. depending on the material you are about to faux/marble zinsser bulleyes primer and stixs primer are excellent choices for counter-tops, furniture(metal or wood), collumns would recommend zinsser for those and stix primer for walls , or if you cant afford it any primer would do obvioulsy the better the best finish youll get.
Andres Langhans Perfect technique for that....talk to your local paint store and get a good primer for concrete and proceed as in the video. You may want to use an epoxy finish in the end or something durable. Stick to water based paint though.
I'm going to paint my basement floor and LOVE your technique! Question: will an epoxy finish coat wear well over latex paint? If so, what brands do you recommend? I'm looking at Dutch Boy porch and floor paint because of cost and availability.
+Nadee J Start off by prepping your floor with a primer suitable. Guys at the paint store will help you pick the right one. Remember that the most important step is the prep. It will determine how long the finish lasts. Use latex products throughout the process. Pick your colors that you want to use based on the type of stone your looking for. When I talk about methyl hydrate it refers to denatured alcohol....MH is what it's called in Canada. Finish off with a few coats of clear acrylic wood floor coating like Benjamin Moore's "stays clear". The future floor wax would be more for if you were making panels for a wall. The stays clear is meant to be walked on. Remember to do a sample to finish before starting on the floor. Easy to get overwhelmed by a large project. Good luck!
(hug) Awesome can you do this on a kitchen counter? Any videos on kitchen counters you've done? Love your videos like to do my kitchen counter any ideas.
I saw this question in the comments but I didn’t see an answer and I think the paint percentages might be what my problem is in attempting this technique, could both of these points be addressed in an answer ? Thank you so much love your idea ! 1. Was the bottom double eggshell coat dry or wet when the drizzled water /first grey paint came on it? 2. "Thinned down 80% with water" stands for 80% paint, or 80% water? I presume 80% paint, just making completely sure...
Will this work on a vinyl flooring? I am the Color Guard Director at Purcell High School in Oklahoma and our winter show is called "Turn to Stone". I want to paint our 50 x 70 foot floor just like this since it is the easiest way to do a larger area without it taking five years to complete. Also, what is a whiz roller??
Actually we do that very often in film. We usually use the back side of the flooring but the front will work. My suggestion would be to give it a coat of acrylic clear, much the same as you would on a hardwood floor. Acrylic sticks to most surfaces and I find it to be better than most primers.Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Also, this was not answered and needs to be clarified if you would be so kind : Did you spray water on the panel before you put the 2nd and 3rd grey color on? Each time you drizzle paint the panel looks wet so I am assuming you’re spraying it with water before each drizzle thank you for a reply !
We do epoxy floors mostly just commercial. Would you think this would work using 2 part epoxies. They do blend well. I am sure it would take some experimentation to get it right. Epoxies have a short pot life but about a 45 minute open time where you can do things to them while they are thin and on the floor
Joseph McCarron I have done many thousands of feet using this technique and afterwards pouring epoxy on it. I would think it to hard to do it all with epoxy, however if you use a primer that sticks to whatever floor your going on, you can just do the marble as shown here which is fairly easy and then just do your coating.
Can you recommend a particular brand of epoxy? Does epoxy, when finished, look like plastic glass? Wouldn't it look tacky and not realistic like marble? What should a DIYer keep in mind when applying the epoxy to get a good-looking finish? Would Monarch Paint carry the epoxy of your choice? Thanks a lot for helping. I look forward to the adventure!
+Ann Shr There are endless product names but if you find a place that sells that sort of product ask for food prep safe epoxy. when you apply it use more than you think you should and let the extra drip off. People often use too little. Just make sure you mask of the floor. cause it will drip. Use packing tape to mask and try not to bury tape in the epoxy. Don't use paper for masking. Use poly sheet. The epoxy won't stick to it. Have a hair dryer standing by. A pass with heat will pop bubbles in the epoxy it's the fun part.
I have a plain cement mantel that I would like to do something with. I have white and dark grey marble on all of my window sills. Do you think I would be able to marbleize the mantle to look almost like the window sills? Thanks so much...
Awesome! A few questions... 1. How soon can you apply each new coat of color? Do you need to let each application dry 1st? 2. Can the process be adapted/altered for interior walls? You've got to s/how alleviate the paint running, so can you even capture the same end effect? 3. Can't u/stand the word you're using before "floor wax" to describe just what "type"(?) of floor wax you apply. Could you just give a product name perhaps what you applied? 4. Are there steps to fix or correct spots if an area becomes damaged? TIA
+REEFBLUENOTCH In this video we let the panel dry 3 times. Dean and I do the first pass and let that dry followed by another pass which has the denatured alcohol on it. To do in on a wall you would need to prepare panels as we did in the video. We were making it for walls. Future floor wax is readily available at most grocery store...there are industrial versions of that product available at janitorial supply places. It is easy to repair up till the point its on the wall although because of the nature of all the movement in the finish its easy to hide small repairs. Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Not sure how I missed your message.
When you say "all steps are allowed to dry" is the denatured alcohol drizzled on after the yellow is dry or before? And is the white spritzed on after that is dry?
Vaughn I'm doing this on a cement floor. I've put on cement primer. Now I need to know what paints to use...acrylic or cement paint? After the first grey is splattered and dried, then there is no more drying until all the rest is done (the next 2 grey colors, the yellow spray, alcohol, and white spray)... correct? And lastly do I need a sealer for cement? Please answer. Have not been able to find any type of contact info for you and I really need your help to finish this project correctly. Thank you.
Okay. first...concrete paint can be oil based or waterbased (acrylic ) typicall latex will not stick to oil based product. If you primed your concrete with a waterbased latex product your good to go. If you started with oil based then you will need a latex primer made to stick. All my paintwork is latex.Each time you apply a layer and hit it with the alcohol you let it dry. Once all is done you will want a coat or 2 of clear. Watering down the paint for the first few passes does make weaker. The clear will allow it protection and an even sheen of your choice. Lets start with that.
I used Zinsser 123 primer water based. It says it will go over concrete. So I guess my question is do I have to use concrete paint? Is concrete paint... latex and water based? Can it be watered down like you did to create that muted effect? I seem to be afraid to continue. I want too use the right product on this cement floor. Thank you so much for your first answer!
so basically you have used a latex. As long as you stick to latex products you should be fine. I would suggest practicing before you commit to an entire floor. But remember if it all goes bad you can just prime it again and start over.
javier arevalos Well you are right in thinking this technique would be tricky to do on a wall. It is my favorite look for marble though. It has a natural appearance that looks real. Very often we have to do walls on the sets we work on so what I do is make sheets of marble using this method and then the construction team cuts them into the appropriate size and installs them on the wall with adhesive. This gives you the look of individual slabs of stone which helps to sell the idea.
sorry I was so excited with the video I didn't read the comments !! I am just concerned with the longevity of the finish coat,,, I am looking for something as durable as a 2 part epoxy but not as expensive and as thick as the epoxy...
Kelly Lynch No problem...if you are looking for something that will last, epoxy is the ticket. It actually goes a long way and not much more than you would pay for a urethane where you would have to do multiple coats. Epoxys are available in various sizes as well. Good luck.
I am about to try this for a drama set floor. Wondered if you could make sure I am doing this right. First I will paint with two coats of latex and let dry. Then wet and drizzle on the first 80% water color and roll out. Then let dry? Then wet? and add two other colors and roll out. Let dry? Wet and add yellow color. Spray on alcohol Spray on white. Let dry. Sand and then future floor wax. The set is temporary so may or may not get a varnish instead of future floor wax. Need to start in a couple of days so hoping you check this often. If not, let's hope it works.
sandi paniec basically each step has to be thoroughly dry before you apply the next one. As you know with acrylic paints if they don't have sufficient time to dry you can reactivate the previous layer. This all depends on how warm it is where you're at the moisture content in the air and so on. You can usually feel the surface and if it's damp or cold that usually means it hasn't dried enough. The great thing about a finish like this is that if you do accidentally reactivate some of the area's it will probably just produce an interesting little effect which will make it even look more organic
Jeremiah Wolfe well....get a concrete primer and after that it is simply latex paint as in the video. If you use exterior products it will be tougher. In the end you can do a few coats of a clear urethane or an epoxy depending on your budget.
***** The best advice I can give you for color is to go to some place that sells marble, find a sample you like and then take the colors from that. There is no right or wrong....it's simply what you like. I will say that the most successful faux marble will use earth tones. Browns and creams and green shades.
The product I used in that project is MDF which is basically pressed saw dust and glue, home depot should carry it. Very common material and easy to cut.
It is the relationship between the Methyl Hydrate ( alcohol ) and latex paint that makes it work. Mineral Spirits and Acetone wont work. The acetone would reactivate the previous layers of paint.
So I googled future floor wax, and from what I can tell they don't sell that brand anymore. It looks like it is sold under pledge now, but have heard it isn't as good. Do you use the new pledge version?
The best thing to do is actually find a janitorial supply store and ask for a product called Citation. Comes in different sheens. These products are basically what a janitor would use to coat the floor in a school. If you are doing your project where people will walk I would suggest an acrylic floor coating. Basically water based clear finish. Every paint store will carry some version. I use the "floor wax" for table tops and such although it really is not wax at all it is what they used to call it years ago. Now everything is acrylic and waterborne.
Yes, Its the perfect spot for this treatment. If you have any cracks in the concrete it will help it look more real. Just make sure you ask the paint store for a good primer for concrete and stick to water based products.
Хобби
Ive done marbleizing and this is the simplest yet natural looking technique not to mention using water down paint and no glaze. Floor wax to seal and protect damn thats a great idea!!! Thanks fellas!!!!
Unbelievably simple and quick! As a fine artist, I've spent hours layering paints to create the same look. I'm just sitting here shaking my head in disbelief right now. The posiblities are staggering. I could even see myself using this technique to completely transform my home into an ancient greek baths or something, all granite and marble. LOL Think you'd consider hiring a 48 year old artist?
Thanks for showing this method on a 4'x8' scale! So many videos show small size sampling which doesn't necessarily scale well for large scenic projects. Wonderful demonstration!
Wow! This is brilliant! Probably the best faux marble I've seen! Thanks so much for sharing!!
I have seen this done and you really can't tell the difference. Awesome vid!!
There are some great techniques for marble on a vertical surface but the best natural look is doing it down. I would suggest getting some inexpensive panelling and then installing it with the marble done. I will post a video of the other type as soon as I have to produce it. Watch the CW new show "The Tomorrow People" to see some great faux painting. New this fall.
I'm glad you asked. I get a lot of comments saying " what chemical was that?" In Canada we have methyl hydrate. It's what you would clean brushes used in shellac. In the US it's called denatured alcohol.
You showed, Awesome Skills!
This is awesome. Thank you much!
Yes Sarah that is right. i have been looking for a good one this is the best.
Thank you for this great vid! Very useful!
Did you spray water on the panel before you put the 2nd and 3rd grey color on? I just finished putting the first coat of grey on and it looks so good already. So excited for this project to be successful. Thanks for the great instructions.
Wow!!!
In my opinion it needs more contrast and veins. But thanx for the video. 😊
wow
impressive!
nice man love the idea
Awesome job, Vaughan! I keep watching it to get all the details to paint a whole concrete floor. Some things I still try to grok is, 1. was the bottom double eggshell coat dry or wet when the drizzled water /first grey paint came on it? 2. "Thinned down 80% with water" stands for 80% paint, or 80% water? I presume 80% paint, just making completely sure 3. Does the floor wax need to dry or stand before the final epoxy comes on top? 4. Are there shoes or shoe accessories to not leave footprints on the floor in progress? Or "always paint walking backwards" is the only thing to do. Thank you
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽🔥🔥🔥
Nice work, Vaughan. D.
Floor wax can hold up for a long time but does need to be re coated more often than poly. However it's harder to get the slick smooth surface with poly. Benny Moore stays clear is my favorite. Thanks for leaving a comment.
Did anyone try this and get it to work? Mine ended up as a mess. Video results look amazing.
you guyz are the best !!! how cool. great that you shared.
Glad you like it, give it a whirl, it's not as hard as you may think.
can i do this on paper? white cardboard paper?
Thanks Mark
Awesome video love it 😎 What kind of methanol and where can I buy it to spray over it at the end like you did?
does the floor wax protect the surface long term? if not, would I put poly on top of floor wax or alone? loved your technique and finished product. turns out so beautiful.
Fantastic technique, thank you for sharing! Do you let it dry after each step, or is every step done one right after the other.
amazing video thank you, you guys r real good
+Jose Lacera Thank you!
Are you using any type of scumble?
Great technique! Is there a way that I could use acrlyc paints rather than latex? Can you suggest media that can dilute or "weaken"" acrylic paints just like methyl hydrate for latex?
Pretty much let each step dry although the application of the methyl hydrate which you may know as denatured alcohol is done when wet
Hi Vaughan.Thank you so much for sharing your time and your talents. It's a great opportunity for those of us who want to try to create faux finishes on surfaces in our home, and yet we were afraid to try...til you made it look so easy. What you have done looks absolutely incredible!
I was hoping you could give me a little advice...I know my application is a bit different. My husband and I have put a waterproof cementitious coating on our balcony. We applied a water based acrylic top coat Westcoat SC-10 cutting it about 20% with water. It's industrial grade and has a bit more acrylic in it than most acrylic paints. I have taken other colors of their SC-10 and diluted them about 75-80% to create the marble finish. Here are my questions:1) Your board seems really wet when do the veining layer. Do you spritz water on each layer? or, is it just the background layer?2) How do you avoid getting "roller marks"?3) I picked up 3 different types of 6" whiz rollers....(microfiber deck/masonary, ceiling, and foam smooth surfaces). The foam didn't work at all ...just smeared everything. The 2 microfiber rollers worked better but I got more of a colorwash-look during the veining layer with harsh looking dots (not softened as your video shows), along with a lot of roller marks. I did not spritz this layer with water, as your video did not say to do so and because of the dilution rate of the paint, it seemed like it was wet enough...I squeezed the roller out several times during the process. I'm wondering if there might be too much acrylic in the product we're using, which makes it more viscous, could that be causing the color-wash appearance (lack of veins) with dots? Or??? Should I thin it out to 85-90%? Or, possibly lessen the thinning of the paint? Any thoughts or advice?
Vaughan, thanks again for making these how-to videos...we appreciate all your efforts! It's fun trying new things. And, thanks in advance for any insight, thoughts or advice regarding my application.
Sherry Purser yes there is water spritzed to help separate the paint. There's enough water on the surface that when you use the Wiz roller and lightly roll the shapes that they will blend. It's a matter of getting the right consistency in your colors like you said 70 to 80% and then moving them around with a light enough touch. Once you have your little shapes you can always shoot them with a spritzer if you see anything that looks like roller mark. This will help them look more organic. I always suggest that people do a sample from start to finish on another panel somewhere else. Many people jump right into the job and get discouraged when it doesn't go right. I've been doing this for 30 years and I still do a complete sample. This ensures that when I get to the finished product everything is streamline and controlled.
Thanks Vaughan. I will try your suggestions. I should have told you that I tried 2 test boards 4 x 8. The first, I used a latex base coat with acrylic samples of the sc-10,, because we didn't want to open the 5 gal. buckets. :) That turned out okay for a first shot. But, then I tried it with the acrylic sc-10 base coat and it turned out more like a colorwash when I tried to do the veining. So, I thought I might need to do something different using acrylics on acrylic. I appreciate your suggestions...I will play with the dilution rate and spritzing after rolling and definitely a lighter touch...maybe I was too anxious. :) LOL! Since it's our balcony...I have all the time in the world...if I screw up, I can just cover it up with another base coat...that's the beauty of paint. I've never really liked painting before...but, this is FUN, trying to create a faux finish of natural stone...I love it! Vaughan, thank you for taking the time to answer my queries and for creating a youtube channel...it's AWESOME that you share your talents of 30 years experience with us. I look forward to seeing more of your videos. Again, THANK YOU!!!
Gosh, I think I might try this - I wanted to do a faux marble on a plank that I want to use as a "counter" for a pass-thru to my dining room - nothing for food prep or much use - usually just have a few herb pots on it. I'm guessing this'd be OK on wood too, as long as it has that eggshell painted surface first ... but can you tell me the type of roller? It sounded like"riz." Thanks!
Thank you so much
keren pke lukisne
This work is simply amazing. A Canadian at best. So proud of you. I want to ask about the sealer or topcoat to use for countertop. What do you personally recommend - epoxy, poly or urethane? I am all ears. Hope to hear from you. Thanks.
+Ann Shr For a countertop I would recommend a 2 part epoxy suitable for food prep area. The others would hold up for a while but with water and such your better off with epoxy.
Fantastic! is there a similar substitute for the floor wax to be used for a laminate countertop ? does the paint have to be oil based with the denatured alcohol ? would acrylic paint work if I used water as a spritzer? cant wait to try .. if the floor wax is suitable for the counter top could you tell me the brand and where I can buy it? thanks so much I love the informative short and sweet to the point tutorial!!!
Would you recommend this as a finish in front of a fireplace? Could I just use a clear polyurethane coat over top to protect?
Yes. All water based products.
Latex paint is what I use most of the time
Does it contain White pigment?
Hey Vaughan,love your work. Im in England and cant really find latex paint.Were can i find latex online.We use acrylic paints over here,and the closet i can find is a Matt finish.
Acrylic paint is fine. Most of the stuff I use is acrylic. good luck
latex is water based all around so anything latex would be considered acrylic. paint has evolved over the years. you can get water based alykd paint now but rather just stick to oil base paints if that's your thing. water based latex acrylic paint is fun and easy to clean but would personally prefer doing oil base paints with marbleizing. you can create way more depth and contrast with oil base paints because they move more freely on your working space and can manipulate it much better. for big areas modern masters extender is suggested for more working time and to prevent lap lines like on columns and specific pieces of furniture, counter-tops, etc. on walls its ideal to have slabs of penciled off squared pieces or if youre feeling ballsy paint the whole wall marble. fuck it. keep in mind the types of primer you use is very very important to the before and after of what you do. professionals will tell you to prime it with your base coat but that's wrong and a poor way to prep rather than just tinting your satin based primer to your base coat and working from there. depending on the material you are about to faux/marble zinsser bulleyes primer and stixs primer are excellent choices for counter-tops, furniture(metal or wood), collumns would recommend zinsser for those and stix primer for walls , or if you cant afford it any primer would do obvioulsy the better the best finish youll get.
also flat paint is matte paint. matte is just french for flat
hi would this technique work on a painted concrete floor?
Thanks for the tips..have a question I want to rip my flooring and expose the concrete in my loft will this work to give a a marble look?
Andres Langhans Perfect technique for that....talk to your local paint store and get a good primer for concrete and proceed as in the video. You may want to use an epoxy finish in the end or something durable. Stick to water based paint though.
I'm going to paint my basement floor and LOVE your technique! Question: will an epoxy finish coat wear well over latex paint? If so, what brands do you recommend? I'm looking at Dutch Boy porch and floor paint because of cost and availability.
This is amazing. I really want to do this on my floor.can you please tell me what are the products I should use?
+Nadee J Start off by prepping your floor with a primer suitable. Guys at the paint store will help you pick the right one. Remember that the most important step is the prep. It will determine how long the finish lasts. Use latex products throughout the process. Pick your colors that you want to use based on the type of stone your looking for. When I talk about methyl hydrate it refers to denatured alcohol....MH is what it's called in Canada. Finish off with a few coats of clear acrylic wood floor coating like Benjamin Moore's "stays clear". The future floor wax would be more for if you were making panels for a wall. The stays clear is meant to be walked on. Remember to do a sample to finish before starting on the floor. Easy to get overwhelmed by a large project. Good luck!
(hug) Awesome can you do this on a kitchen counter? Any videos on kitchen counters you've done? Love your videos like to do my kitchen counter any ideas.
How long does the future last?
I saw this question in the comments but I didn’t see an answer and I think the paint percentages might be what my problem is in attempting this technique, could both of these points be addressed in an answer ? Thank you so much love your idea !
1. Was the bottom double eggshell coat dry or wet when the drizzled water /first grey paint came on it?
2. "Thinned down 80% with water" stands for 80% paint, or 80% water? I presume 80% paint, just making completely sure...
this is a enamel paint whit water spray?
thanks
Will this work on a vinyl flooring? I am the Color Guard Director at Purcell High School in Oklahoma and our winter show is called "Turn to Stone". I want to paint our 50 x 70 foot floor just like this since it is the easiest way to do a larger area without it taking five years to complete. Also, what is a whiz roller??
Actually we do that very often in film. We usually use the back side of the flooring but the front will work. My suggestion would be to give it a coat of acrylic clear, much the same as you would on a hardwood floor. Acrylic sticks to most surfaces and I find it to be better than most primers.Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
Also, this was not answered and needs to be clarified if you would be so kind :
Did you spray water on the panel before you put the 2nd and 3rd grey color on?
Each time you drizzle paint the panel looks wet so I am assuming you’re spraying it with water before each drizzle thank you for a reply !
Is that simply latex paint you are using???
We do epoxy floors mostly just commercial. Would you think this would work using 2 part epoxies. They do blend well. I am sure it would take some experimentation to get it right. Epoxies have a short pot life but about a 45 minute open time where you can do things to them while they are thin and on the floor
Joseph McCarron I have done many thousands of feet using this technique and afterwards pouring epoxy on it. I would think it to hard to do it all with epoxy, however if you use a primer that sticks to whatever floor your going on, you can just do the marble as shown here which is fairly easy and then just do your coating.
Can you recommend a particular brand of epoxy? Does epoxy, when finished, look like plastic glass? Wouldn't it look tacky and not realistic like marble? What should a DIYer keep in mind when applying the epoxy to get a good-looking finish? Would Monarch Paint carry the epoxy of your choice? Thanks a lot for helping. I look forward to the adventure!
+Ann Shr There are endless product names but if you find a place that sells that sort of product ask for food prep safe epoxy. when you apply it use more than you think you should and let the extra drip off. People often use too little. Just make sure you mask of the floor. cause it will drip. Use packing tape to mask and try not to bury tape in the epoxy. Don't use paper for masking. Use poly sheet. The epoxy won't stick to it. Have a hair dryer standing by. A pass with heat will pop bubbles in the epoxy it's the fun part.
Would luv to do on my counter top in the laundry. Would chalk paint work..Or only latex with every color I wish to use.thanks
Yes you can! its just that water based drys faster. In film we don't have the time for slow drying paint
Is the yellow in the spritzer also watered down by 80%?
sangat bagus
this is in Teble rig . how we med morbl in wall
I have a plain cement mantel that I would like to do something with. I have white and dark grey marble on all of my window sills. Do you think I would be able to marbleize the mantle to look almost like the window sills? Thanks so much...
+Linda Aaron For sure. Just try to match your colors and do a sample on a separate piece of something.
+Vaughan Baker Thank you!
Awesome! A few questions...
1. How soon can you apply each new coat of color? Do you need to let each application dry 1st?
2. Can the process be adapted/altered for interior walls? You've got to s/how alleviate the paint running, so can you even capture the same end effect?
3. Can't u/stand the word you're using before "floor wax" to describe just what "type"(?) of floor wax you apply. Could you just give a product name perhaps what you applied?
4. Are there steps to fix or correct spots if an area becomes damaged?
TIA
REEFBLUENOTCH .........."FUTURE" floor wax, k :)
+REEFBLUENOTCH In this video we let the panel dry 3 times. Dean and I do the first pass and let that dry followed by another pass which has the denatured alcohol on it. To do in on a wall you would need to prepare panels as we did in the video. We were making it for walls. Future floor wax is readily available at most grocery store...there are industrial versions of that product available at janitorial supply places. It is easy to repair up till the point its on the wall although because of the nature of all the movement in the finish its easy to hide small repairs. Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. Not sure how I missed your message.
When you say "all steps are allowed to dry" is the denatured alcohol drizzled on after the yellow is dry or before? And is the white spritzed on after that is dry?
You are correct... the alcohol is drizzled into the paint when still wet. This way they can react with each other.
Vaughn I'm doing this on a cement floor. I've put on cement primer. Now I need to know what paints to use...acrylic or cement paint? After the first grey is splattered and dried, then there is no more drying until all the rest is done (the next 2 grey colors, the yellow spray, alcohol, and white spray)... correct? And lastly do I need a sealer for cement? Please answer. Have not been able to find any type of contact info for you and I really need your help to finish this project correctly. Thank you.
Okay. first...concrete paint can be oil based or waterbased (acrylic ) typicall latex will not stick to oil based product. If you primed your concrete with a waterbased latex product your good to go. If you started with oil based then you will need a latex primer made to stick. All my paintwork is latex.Each time you apply a layer and hit it with the alcohol you let it dry. Once all is done you will want a coat or 2 of clear. Watering down the paint for the first few passes does make weaker. The clear will allow it protection and an even sheen of your choice. Lets start with that.
I used Zinsser 123 primer water based. It says it will go over concrete. So I guess my question is do I have to use concrete paint? Is concrete paint... latex and water based? Can it be watered down like you did to create that muted effect? I seem to be afraid to continue. I want too use the right product on this cement floor. Thank you so much for your first answer!
so basically you have used a latex. As long as you stick to latex products you should be fine. I would suggest practicing before you commit to an entire floor. But remember if it all goes bad you can just prime it again and start over.
Same here, I played it back several times struggling to understand, but still can't make out what he said he used.
How to do on the walls,it’s possible?
I want to see how you suppose to do that on walls ?
javier arevalos Well you are right in thinking this technique would be tricky to do on a wall. It is my favorite look for marble though. It has a natural appearance that looks real. Very often we have to do walls on the sets we work on so what I do is make sheets of marble using this method and then the construction team cuts them into the appropriate size and installs them on the wall with adhesive. This gives you the look of individual slabs of stone which helps to sell the idea.
All steps are allowed to dry although due to editing it may seem as though they ate wet on wet.
sorry I was so excited with the video I didn't read the comments !! I am just concerned with the longevity of the finish coat,,, I am looking for something as durable as a 2 part epoxy but not as expensive and as thick as the epoxy...
Kelly Lynch No problem...if you are looking for something that will last, epoxy is the ticket. It actually goes a long way and not much more than you would pay for a urethane where you would have to do multiple coats. Epoxys are available in various sizes as well. Good luck.
Is this slippery
Hi can you toll me what cain of paint you used and the clear and where i can fine it thank you
Basically all paint is regular household latex paint. The clear I used is "future floor wax"
Id like to apply this to a ceiling,how would I do that?
If your ceiling is still in construction, you can paint the boards on the ground and then cut them to size. Just my 2 cents :)
I am about to try this for a drama set floor. Wondered if you could make sure I am doing this right. First I will paint with two coats of latex and let dry. Then wet and drizzle on the first 80% water color and roll out. Then let dry? Then wet? and add two other colors and roll out. Let dry? Wet and add yellow color. Spray on alcohol Spray on white. Let dry. Sand and then future floor wax. The set is temporary so may or may not get a varnish instead of future floor wax. Need to start in a couple of days so hoping you check this often. If not, let's hope it works.
sandi paniec I think you are in good shape!
Thanks. Hoping it looks as good as yours.
Another quick question. How long did you let dry between the last stages. Hoping to do the drizzles in a day. A couple of hours each?
sandi paniec basically each step has to be thoroughly dry before you apply the next one. As you know with acrylic paints if they don't have sufficient time to dry you can reactivate the previous layer. This all depends on how warm it is where you're at the moisture content in the air and so on. You can usually feel the surface and if it's damp or cold that usually means it hasn't dried enough. The great thing about a finish like this is that if you do accidentally reactivate some of the area's it will probably just produce an interesting little effect which will make it even look more organic
A question; why finish with wax instead of glaze?
In this case.....multiple coats of the floor wax can actually give you a finish as if its sprayed.
Would it be possible to list products needed to do this if it can be done on a concrete floor?
Jeremiah Wolfe well....get a concrete primer and after that it is simply latex paint as in the video. If you use exterior products it will be tougher. In the end you can do a few coats of a clear urethane or an epoxy depending on your budget.
can you please tell me what shades of colors was used here, i am trying to google for color and i cant seem to find any,
***** The best advice I can give you for color is to go to some place that sells marble, find a sample you like and then take the colors from that. There is no right or wrong....it's simply what you like. I will say that the most successful faux marble will use earth tones. Browns and creams and green shades.
Fifty shades of grey.
Methyl what? Hydrate?
Where can I buy your boards?
The product I used in that project is MDF which is basically pressed saw dust and glue, home depot should carry it. Very common material and easy to cut.
***** I actually don't sell the faux painted boards, I only show techniques that I have used in film and television
Could you give the base and gray color codes you used?
Basically get a piece or sample of marble you like and use those colours.
Can I use acetone or mineral spirits instead of the methyl hydrate
It is the relationship between the Methyl Hydrate ( alcohol ) and latex paint that makes it work. Mineral Spirits and Acetone wont work. The acetone would reactivate the previous layers of paint.
( denatured Alcohol )
thanks soo much for the response!
So I googled future floor wax, and from what I can tell they don't sell that brand anymore. It looks like it is sold under pledge now, but have heard it isn't as good. Do you use the new pledge version?
The best thing to do is actually find a janitorial supply store and ask for a product called Citation. Comes in different sheens. These products are basically what a janitor would use to coat the floor in a school. If you are doing your project where people will walk I would suggest an acrylic floor coating. Basically water based clear finish. Every paint store will carry some version. I use the "floor wax" for table tops and such although it really is not wax at all it is what they used to call it years ago. Now everything is acrylic and waterborne.
Thanks for the tips..have a question I want to rip my flooring and expose the concrete in my loft will this work to give a a marble look?
Yes, Its the perfect spot for this treatment. If you have any cracks in the concrete it will help it look more real. Just make sure you ask the paint store for a good primer for concrete and stick to water based products.
Awesome thank you