This engine swap will be the best thing that you could do to a Jeep. I put a 6 liter LQ4 in my 89 Wrangler 8 years ago. It puts a smile on my face every time I drive it. You're gonna love it.
My first car was a 67 jeep that we put a Ford 302 in it and bolted it to the original Jeep transmission. It was a 3 speed, had a top speed of like 58mph but it would pull the front wheels off the ground all the way into third gear, loved that thing!! The sound was insane!
Watched this video never wired up anything in my life I was able to wire up my 2001 single cab 5speed with a 5.3lm7 swap it took me 2 hours just because the help of this video it’s literally plug and play you just gotta be mentally prepared but it’s easy once you get it 💯
These LS engines are awesome. I have a 2001 WS6 5.7 Trans Am with 45k miles . Im the 2nd owner. I bought it when it had 8k miles. 2005 2500 HD 4x4 6.0 with 217k miles Im the original owner. 2000 1500 regular cab shortbed 5.3 with 216k. My father-in-law bought new. All three have been trouble free for the most part. I have a 70 Trans Am that I dream of putting an LS in one day. Your clear and concise video here gives me confidence and makes me want to do it even more. Subscribed Thanks! 👍
One thing you left out when running the 4l60 was the brake light switch (or equivalent relay pack). If the ECM doesn't know if you're on the brake or not, that will screw with the lock up function on the torque converter. Also, since you're keeping the factory fuse box, why not keep the wires running to the fuel pump? There's already a relay in the fuse box to power it and the wires were already there.
Great video. Thans so much for sharing. I will be doing this myself in the spring. The only difference is a Gen 4 going in my YJ. I have always built my own harnesses so it shouldn't be too bad even if my first LS. I pulled the engine myself, so I have everything to go with it. I also separate the body/dash harnesses from the engine. Much easier with a custom flat dash. Thanks again.
My first car was a 67 jeep that we put a Ford 302 in it and bolted it to the original Jeep transmission. It was a 3 speed, had a top speed of like 58mph but it would pull the front wheels off the ground all the way into third gear, loved that thing!! The sound was insane!
Really looking forward to this conversion, as I'd like to do one myself one day for my YJ. By all means, keep including some of this more technical info.. its really good information.
With it, I need to get on my own projects and record them. Ive had a 4th Gen 4runner half worked on for years. I have a full exhaust just rusting away in the garage lol
There's a tool used in sewing called a seam ripper, it's very good for cutting tape and sheathing off a harness. There's even a Snap-On terminal release tool kit that comes with one
What about the battery positive connection and the alternator to the red junction box? Do you keep that or run a single wire to the battery for charging?
This is solid. Only thing I'd suggest is, when removing a ground wire from a junction in the middle of the harness, leave 1"-2" of wire, then cap that 1-2" section with heat shrink. Cutting it close and leaving it is going get some serious corrosion, and leave you stranded some day. Also, no marettes. Same story...
Dude...fuck im glad i didn't pay for a harness! .Ive been dreading doing this. Thank you for taking the time for putting up the best and clearest how to out there. Thanks again g!
Great video. Im new to the ls swap world. Bought a donor truck with a 6.0 with a 4L80e to put in my Jeep LJ build. Was wondering if removing things like the evap sensor, O2 sensors, ect will cause a check engine light since the factory computer wont see them anymore and if so will they affect it engine performance. I wont be using the factory gauges from the truck or the Jeep but will be using aftermarket gauges so the check engine light won't even be existent. Also will be putting in a reverse manual valve body in the trans so i have yet to figure out what needs to be left of that harness.
You can remove all that stuff! Whatever you don’t need. (Keep the front 02 sensors) you’re able to reprogram the factory computer and disable the check engine light codes for anything you disconnect! You can also disable the VATS. I used a program called Universal Patcher check it out!
I am running a BTR Stage 2 V2 cam. .617 intake .619 exhaust 113 Lsa. Richard Holdner dynod this cam and it made 565 at the crank. BTR dynoed it at 537 horses. Hey either way the original Vic had 239 horses Thank you.
Nice! I just got quoted $750 for reworking my own harness.. I never messed with a harness and am worried about it. But I’m going to try it. I’m doing Manual transmission too.. the person who quoted me told me that I don’t need the 02 sensors but you say leave them on?? Can you also go over again on how to do the obd port? Where I wire that one? Thanks
There’s a great video explaining the obd wiring, super simple, one pin to computer (pin 57) then the plug gets ground and switch power! Search it up on RUclips there’s some great vids out there
The rear O2s and evap/egr need to be turned off in the ECM and reflashed! You can do this for next to nothing by making a bench harness from scrap connectors
I just went yesterday and pulled a complete harness out of 09' Yukon. I got the Ecu and the starter and alternator. I am using the OE harness cause it is made way better then the Amazon or E-Bay harness. It's a N/a build so I won't be doing the Holley Terminator X Max with the 6 speed expansion box. It's $2400. I paid $200 for the all of it. The problem with the Amazon harnesses and the E-Bay harnesses is no one really knows how long they will last. Yea you can get harnesses for $80 to $300 but will they last longer then a year. Inferior plastic. No thank you lol.
Thanks. Love this. Where do I get block offs for the EGR and other evap system sensors for the truck manifold? I know I can get an exhaust manifold off a newer truck for the EGR delete tube, but what about deleting it from the intake? Just wondering and hoping.
If I have a DBW setup, but want to convert to a DBC, how would I go about that as far as the wire harness? I also need to get a PCM, my factory PCM is not compatible to convert to DBC...so, I feel in this case, $80 ebay harness might be the better way to go? TIA...nice video! Very thorough!!!
You need a dbc throttle body, DBC computer, and DBC harness to modify. Still cheaper to get these things off a truck at the junkyard! I wouldn’t touch an 80$ harness lol that’s just me tho
My current engine had a dbw setup. I can get a whole harness and pcm for a dbc and be done correct? all other sensors should be the same. I shoukd be able to get a harness and pcm from a older silverado and be plug n play right? @@ConnorGuldner
I see a volvo 240 yellow in the back ground , is the Ls going in the volvo ? Cause I'm doing the exact same thing here with my volvo 245, asking because I'm learning. Thank you
You have to make sure you have all the right sensors with any aftermarket harness! Sometimes the cheap ones are missing crucial sensors or have incorrect plugs. Imo it’s worth it to modify the stock harness instead!
I took the wires out with the motor every one in the truck front to back was thinking about seeing how I can just wire it all in my 85 camaro I want the lite wires everything to somehow work lol
Do you actually need the neutral safety switch or just saying that for safety reasons? Edit: okay. I see you used the factory wire for the starter so do need to to crank over. Doesn't effect shifting of the trans without it does it?
Hi my name is wayne i have 1971 chevy c10 im doing a Swap ls 5.3 i want to know how to connect my cluster all the gauges including the RPM tac please let me know. Thank you.
The gauges that are connected to sensors: use the original sensors and wiring from the truck and adapt them to the engine. For me i am able to buy an adapter for the oil pressure and water temp sensors so I can screw the sensors from the Jeep into the Chevy motor. The speedometer signal comes from the transfer case in my Jeep so that will stay original as well. The tach is a bit trickier. Look up Dakota digital tach emulator to retain your original gauge. It’s also easier to just wire up an aftermarket gauge for the tach. Each car is different so id do some research on what other people have done in your specific situation but that is my basic knowledge on the subject! Thank u 🙏
Seems like there's different directions on the 3 square bolt in plugs? What to use etc. Or either they've cut what's not needed/but don't say which ones they cut/but REALLY want u to know how to remove the pins. 700.00 is high but.i think I'm gunna buy new. Must a got ripped off allready/250.00 to remove the vats,? Spoke to bp today/75.00 same thing/gotta love the Dallas ga local buddies!/shop.
Seems like there's different directions on the 3 square bolt in plugs? What to use etc. Or either they've cut what's not needed/but don't say which ones they cut/but REALLY want u to know how to remove the pins. 700.00 is high but.i think I'm gunna buy new. Must a got ripped off allready/250.00 to remove the vats,? Spoke to bp today/75.00 same thing/gotta love the Dallas ga local buddies!/shop.
Not trying to sound negative, But it would seem like a shame to not throw a cam in just about any LS. Unless it is crate motor. The truck Norris cam can add power from top to bottom of RPM. And isn't power while you're doing the swap? How about an extra sixty- hundred. 🤤 Doesn't require new springs or tork converter. But you're going to Need a tune. As far as I know , not a lot of Great tuners tune factory ecu. In my opinion, If you want a power upgrade without going through all this. With the great ls bottom end and great heads that are also Aluminum. You're better off Ditching the fuel injection. Plus a carb will have more power over STOCK Fuel injection. Because the fuel runs cooler. Something to consider, not trashing this video. ✌️
@ConnorGuldner if you can swing it. I gave $ 2500 for a 250,000 mile 2004 2500HD. Drove it home. Before the added cool stuff, or Performance parts. After Selling parts and scrapping the rest. I ended up with $500 in what i kept, a 6.0 4l80e 14 bolt full float disk break rear and the front 9.5 diff. If I sold the rear end, I got the motor transmission for free. - my time. ✌️
The 80$ standalone harness wouldn’t even come close to the quality of the factory harness! They’re often made incorrectly, horrible quality control, and don’t include the factory safety features. In my opinion it’s worth saving the factory harness 🙏
@@ConnorGuldner what safety features? Most factory harnessess i find are falling apart being as gen 3 stuff is 20 years old now. I have bought probably 10 of the cheap china harnesses and only 1 had a pinout issue. Material quality isnt the best but also it’s a budget build item.
on a budget build sometimes its better to save that $80 somewhere else, especially when you can do it yourself, learn your engine, and have that pride factor once its on the trail...You truly know the quality of your own work. and we all know the lack of quality on that $80 harness your referencing
10 years from now that china special is going to be full of intermittent connections from poor crimps and poor pin retention. The factory connections are simply better. Loads of people do not have the initiative to do it themselves, and that is fine, but when they are not willing to shell out for a good brand name harness, and decide on the china option you are asking for trouble. Will it work? Probably. After a few years? I have serious doubts.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This engine swap will be the best thing that you could do to a Jeep. I put a 6 liter LQ4 in my 89 Wrangler 8 years ago. It puts a smile on my face every time I drive it. You're gonna love it.
Hell yea!! I’m so excited
My first car was a 67 jeep that we put a Ford 302 in it and bolted it to the original Jeep transmission. It was a 3 speed, had a top speed of like 58mph but it would pull the front wheels off the ground all the way into third gear, loved that thing!! The sound was insane!
I’m doing an 88 YJ. How do I start the engine after doing the wiring harness
Dope. How many miles did the lq4 have? which tranny?
Watched this video never wired up anything in my life I was able to wire up my 2001 single cab 5speed with a 5.3lm7 swap it took me 2 hours just because the help of this video it’s literally plug and play you just gotta be mentally prepared but it’s easy once you get it 💯
That’s so sick!!! I’m glad my video could be of some help to you. Did you also freak out when the harness was a spaghetti bowl? I almost had a panic 😂
It looks good give your self 1 year your channel will blow up
🙏🙏❤️
These LS engines are awesome. I have a 2001 WS6 5.7 Trans Am with 45k miles . Im the 2nd owner. I bought it when it had 8k miles.
2005 2500 HD 4x4 6.0 with 217k miles Im the original owner.
2000 1500 regular cab shortbed 5.3 with 216k. My father-in-law bought new. All three have been trouble free for the most part.
I have a 70 Trans Am that I dream of putting an LS in one day. Your clear and concise video here gives me confidence and makes me want to do it even more. Subscribed Thanks! 👍
Thanks for commenting! That’s good to know I chose a good motor 🙏🤝
Man I was going to buy a harness until I watched this 🔥 You didn’t over complicate it at all like most videos.
One thing you left out when running the 4l60 was the brake light switch (or equivalent relay pack). If the ECM doesn't know if you're on the brake or not, that will screw with the lock up function on the torque converter.
Also, since you're keeping the factory fuse box, why not keep the wires running to the fuel pump? There's already a relay in the fuse box to power it and the wires were already there.
Great video. Thans so much for sharing. I will be doing this myself in the spring. The only difference is a Gen 4 going in my YJ. I have always built my own harnesses so it shouldn't be too bad even if my first LS. I pulled the engine myself, so I have everything to go with it. I also separate the body/dash harnesses from the engine. Much easier with a custom flat dash. Thanks again.
Sounds like you’ve got a good plan! Good luck with your project. It is so worth it!
My first car was a 67 jeep that we put a Ford 302 in it and bolted it to the original Jeep transmission. It was a 3 speed, had a top speed of like 58mph but it would pull the front wheels off the ground all the way into third gear, loved that thing!! The sound was insane!
That sounds like a lot of fun 🤩
@@ConnorGuldner Loved that thing!!
I’m a simple man. I see a 240 in the thumbnail and I click and subscribe
❤️ thank you!
Really looking forward to this conversion, as I'd like to do one myself one day for my YJ. By all means, keep including some of this more technical info.. its really good information.
Thanks for letting me
Know! I figured nobody would want to watch this stuff haha
With it, I need to get on my own projects and record them. Ive had a 4th Gen 4runner half worked on for years. I have a full exhaust just rusting away in the garage lol
Put that baby on the runner ASAP!
Super cool video. I honestly thought it was a much more involved and complex process. Very inspiring
It’s actually pretty simple once you get the hang of it 👍
There's a tool used in sewing called a seam ripper, it's very good for cutting tape and sheathing off a harness. There's even a Snap-On terminal release tool kit that comes with one
That’s a great idea!
I'm doing the same thing with a Northstar engine so should be same process. Thanks and I hope it works.
Let's goooo hope it works for ya!
Sure hope it works out well.
What about the battery positive connection and the alternator to the red junction box? Do you keep that or run a single wire to the battery for charging?
This is solid. Only thing I'd suggest is, when removing a ground wire from a junction in the middle of the harness, leave 1"-2" of wire, then cap that 1-2" section with heat shrink. Cutting it close and leaving it is going get some serious corrosion, and leave you stranded some day. Also, no marettes. Same story...
I would use the “heat shrink solder sleeve” that guarantees a perfect connection or Marine grade heat shrink with the adhesive glue inside.
He could have just added a little dielectric grease and automotive cloth tape for an easy long lasting solution.
Dude...fuck im glad i didn't pay for a harness! .Ive been dreading doing this. Thank you for taking the time for putting up the best and clearest how to out there. Thanks again g!
you're so welcome! Good luck with the project.
Project not done but the dream is still big 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Great video. Im new to the ls swap world. Bought a donor truck with a 6.0 with a 4L80e to put in my Jeep LJ build. Was wondering if removing things like the evap sensor, O2 sensors, ect will cause a check engine light since the factory computer wont see them anymore and if so will they affect it engine performance. I wont be using the factory gauges from the truck or the Jeep but will be using aftermarket gauges so the check engine light won't even be existent. Also will be putting in a reverse manual valve body in the trans so i have yet to figure out what needs to be left of that harness.
You can remove all that stuff! Whatever you don’t need. (Keep the front 02 sensors) you’re able to reprogram the factory computer and disable the check engine light codes for anything you disconnect! You can also disable the VATS. I used a program called Universal Patcher check it out!
Awesome brother!!! I am doing my first swap. Ls3/6L90E in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Not my first engine tho.
That’s gonna be wicked
I am running a BTR Stage 2 V2 cam. .617 intake .619 exhaust 113 Lsa. Richard Holdner dynod this cam and it made 565 at the crank. BTR dynoed it at 537 horses. Hey either way the original Vic had 239 horses Thank you.
When you gonna drop them next video. Excited to see this
Working on it now! Lots of things on the todo list… trying to get these vids out as fast as I can 🙏
Good video, did you use the stock ecu? Did you have it flashed? Thanks for the info
Nice! I just got quoted $750 for reworking my own harness.. I never messed with a harness and am worried about it. But I’m going to try it. I’m doing Manual transmission too.. the person who quoted me told me that I don’t need the 02 sensors but you say leave them on?? Can you also go over again on how to do the obd port? Where I wire that one? Thanks
You need the front O2! You can ditch the rears.
There’s a great video explaining the obd wiring, super simple, one pin to computer (pin 57) then the plug gets ground and switch power! Search it up on RUclips there’s some great vids out there
@@ConnorGuldner nice, thanks
Nice video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
you got a video of how to cleanly wrap the wires in cool wraping to make it cleaner??
Google Tessa tape, use that stuff, wrap it up. Boom
I really appreciate your video! Thank you!
No problem! Glad it helped
Why are the rear O2 sensors deleted? Does the ecm need to be tuned so that it’s not reading the downstream sensors?
The rear O2s and evap/egr need to be turned off in the ECM and reflashed! You can do this for next to nothing by making a bench harness from scrap connectors
Now how do u wire up the fuel pump for a different chassis or tac or rpm or temp gauge
Awesome tutorial!!! I learned a ton! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
I just went yesterday and pulled a complete harness out of 09' Yukon. I got the Ecu and the starter and alternator. I am using the OE harness cause it is made way better then the Amazon or E-Bay harness. It's a N/a build so I won't be doing the Holley Terminator X Max with the 6 speed expansion box. It's $2400. I paid $200 for the all of it. The problem with the Amazon harnesses and the E-Bay harnesses is no one really knows how long they will last. Yea you can get harnesses for $80 to $300 but will they last longer then a year. Inferior plastic. No thank you lol.
For real! The OEM stuff is really solid. Made exactly for the job
Thanks. Love this. Where do I get block offs for the EGR and other evap system sensors for the truck manifold? I know I can get an exhaust manifold off a newer truck for the EGR delete tube, but what about deleting it from the intake? Just wondering and hoping.
Google gen 3 LS block off plate, mine was 30$ ish and came with the intake block off and the exhaust!
Really simple. Awesome job.
Thank you!
There goes my hero🎉🎉 Awesome vid thanks for making simple. Looking forward to V8 sounds
Thank you so much!!
If I’m running a automatic transmission what wires should I keep
VSS, and Neutral safety switch, on top of everything else in this video! Double check this before you send it
Yes! Another one!
Les goooo!
If I have a DBW setup, but want to convert to a DBC, how would I go about that as far as the wire harness? I also need to get a PCM, my factory PCM is not compatible to convert to DBC...so, I feel in this case, $80 ebay harness might be the better way to go? TIA...nice video! Very thorough!!!
You need a dbc throttle body, DBC computer, and DBC harness to modify. Still cheaper to get these things off a truck at the junkyard! I wouldn’t touch an 80$ harness lol that’s just me tho
My current engine had a dbw setup. I can get a whole harness and pcm for a dbc and be done correct? all other sensors should be the same. I shoukd be able to get a harness and pcm from a older silverado and be plug n play right? @@ConnorGuldner
I see a volvo 240 yellow in the back ground , is the Ls going in the volvo ? Cause I'm doing the exact same thing here with my volvo 245, asking because I'm learning. Thank you
The LS is going in me Jeep! The Volvo is getting a Lexus v8 haha
In theory, this method would work on pretty much any modern harness right?
Yessir! I used the same method to thin out the stock harness on the Jeep to retain the headlights etc. and it worked! No Google, no diagrams.
If you get these type of harnesses do you still have to remove the wires like you would with the OEM ? Or is this plug and play ?
You have to make sure you have all the right sensors with any aftermarket harness! Sometimes the cheap ones are missing crucial sensors or have incorrect plugs. Imo it’s worth it to modify the stock harness instead!
@ Great, I think I will just use the factory harness.
I took the wires out with the motor every one in the truck front to back was thinking about seeing how I can just wire it all in my 85 camaro I want the lite wires everything to somehow work lol
If there’s a will there’s a way!
Do you actually need the neutral safety switch or just saying that for safety reasons?
Edit: okay. I see you used the factory wire for the starter so do need to to crank over. Doesn't effect shifting of the trans without it does it?
The neutral safety switch is for automatic transmissions!
Great video! Do you also flash your own ecu? That will be another video worth watching. Thanks
I did! I used info from Randy at the low buck LS channel. I made my own bench harness and got a link OBDX cable it was about 60$ to do everything!
Hi my name is wayne i have
1971 chevy c10 im doing a
Swap ls 5.3 i want to know how to connect my cluster all the gauges including the RPM tac please let me know. Thank you.
The gauges that are connected to sensors: use the original sensors and wiring from the truck and adapt them to the engine. For me i am able to buy an adapter for the oil pressure and water temp sensors so I can screw the sensors from the Jeep into the Chevy motor. The speedometer signal comes from the transfer case in my Jeep so that will stay original as well. The tach is a bit trickier. Look up Dakota digital tach emulator to retain your original gauge. It’s also easier to just wire up an aftermarket gauge for the tach.
Each car is different so id do some research on what other people have done in your specific situation but that is my basic knowledge on the subject! Thank u 🙏
Think I'd left it together.
Looked fine to me
Yeah you don’t have to take it apart! I just like to clean it up as much as possible
Seems like there's different directions on the 3 square bolt in plugs? What to use etc.
Or either they've cut what's not needed/but don't say which ones they cut/but REALLY want u to know how to remove the pins.
700.00 is high but.i think I'm gunna buy new.
Must a got ripped off allready/250.00 to remove the vats,?
Spoke to bp today/75.00 same thing/gotta love the Dallas ga local buddies!/shop.
Seems like there's different directions on the 3 square bolt in plugs? What to use etc.
Or either they've cut what's not needed/but don't say which ones they cut/but REALLY want u to know how to remove the pins.
700.00 is high but.i think I'm gunna buy new.
Must a got ripped off allready/250.00 to remove the vats,?
Spoke to bp today/75.00 same thing/gotta love the Dallas ga local buddies!/shop.
What about wiring in a aftermarket fuel pump
Watch my first start video to hook up the fuel pump! Very easy, power wire to the truck fuse block, ground to ground
Do I have to delete all the plugs that won't be used is it possible to let them dangle
You don’t have to do this! You can just tape up the unused plugs. It’ll run perfectly fine with an unmodified harness
@@ConnorGuldner thx
this is so epic looking forward to the new video
what harness would you use if you have a 6L90E?
No idea haha
Nice
Thanks 😊
So where’s the next episode?
It’s coming trust 🙈
What about running the obd 2 port and the main wires to start the engine
Looks good dude
Not trying to sound negative, But it would seem like a shame to not throw a cam in just about any LS. Unless it is crate motor. The truck Norris cam can add power from top to bottom of RPM. And isn't power while you're doing the swap? How about an extra sixty- hundred. 🤤 Doesn't require new springs or tork converter. But you're going to
Need a tune. As far as I know , not a lot of Great tuners tune factory ecu. In my opinion, If you want a power upgrade without going through all this. With the great ls bottom end and great heads that are also Aluminum. You're better off Ditching the fuel injection. Plus a carb will have more power over STOCK Fuel injection. Because the fuel runs cooler. Something to consider, not trashing this video. ✌️
You have a good point! Unfortunately things cost money hahaha
@ConnorGuldner if you can swing it. I gave $ 2500 for a 250,000 mile 2004 2500HD. Drove it home. Before the added cool stuff, or Performance parts. After Selling parts and scrapping the rest. I ended up with $500 in what i kept, a 6.0 4l80e 14 bolt full float disk break rear and the front 9.5 diff. If I sold the rear end, I got the motor transmission for free. - my time. ✌️
Who testing injectors?
Very interesting!
Thank you!
The $80 standalone harnesses make this job almost not worth the time anymore. But great info.
The 80$ standalone harness wouldn’t even come close to the quality of the factory harness! They’re often made incorrectly, horrible quality control, and don’t include the factory safety features. In my opinion it’s worth saving the factory harness 🙏
@@ConnorGuldner what safety features? Most factory harnessess i find are falling apart being as gen 3 stuff is 20 years old now. I have bought probably 10 of the cheap china harnesses and only 1 had a pinout issue. Material quality isnt the best but also it’s a budget build item.
on a budget build sometimes its better to save that $80 somewhere else, especially when you can do it yourself, learn your engine, and have that pride factor once its on the trail...You truly know the quality of your own work. and we all know the lack of quality on that $80 harness your referencing
10 years from now that china special is going to be full of intermittent connections from poor crimps and poor pin retention. The factory connections are simply better. Loads of people do not have the initiative to do it themselves, and that is fine, but when they are not willing to shell out for a good brand name harness, and decide on the china option you are asking for trouble. Will it work? Probably. After a few years? I have serious doubts.
New subscriber and a 👍🏿🔥🔥🔥
Welcome aboard! Thanks dude
@@ConnorGuldner💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
@@ConnorGuldner 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿🔥🔥🔥
is this the son of the buff bob ross parody guy? (john burk)
No haha
I used a msd box 6014, but I swapped a carb on er, good shit though fella