I was sitting there all chill and learning from you And you had to break out solder on an automobile. Let me teach an old dog new tricks and go check out Devon vanderhoof on RUclips
Excellent video folks! First video of your's I have seen, I look forward to checking out more of your work! Both of you communicate well clear speaking so you can be understood as well as explaining in simple English. I deeply appreciate this! I have been intimidated by these new fangled engines as in LS type engines. Have been involved in cars & trucks since 1976. I look forward to learning so much more from you two and your videos! Thank you be safe and take care! ✌ 🇺🇸
I noticed you used a scan tool? To reset the fuel trim I did a ls swap on a 71 Camaro I got the engine running but not idling right do you think I need to adjust the fuel trim your answer will be greatly appreciated thank you
I’ve watched this video 15 times. No exaggeration lol. Today I get to wire the truck and hopefully start it soon. I had to order a new throttle body and a few sensors but watching these videos gets me motivated to complete it. I just did the suspension, brakes, and bushings and it took longer than expected. Can’t wait it hear it run. 😅
@@UglyTruckExperience yes, they are aftermarket. They came with the swap and we’re in the truck when I took ownership of the project. Someone recommended shims so I’m looking into that before spending more cash.
There is always something to learn from your videos, I love that about your RUclips channel. Too many others don't give the details of how they do the work. Keep on keepin on!
Thanks!!! We have been watching your videos and really enjoy them. We are behind on a couple of them and will catch up tomorrow night most likely. Keep at it and we will too.
My 15 year old son and i are in the process of doing this. 1987 stepside gmc and have a 05 tahoe doner. Have been watching your videos and it has been a lot of help. Thank you.
Thanks Jwag! We appreciate you watching our stuff! Sounds like a great project. We were just talking this morning, out of all the trucks we've had, we've never had a stepside. Keep us posted on your swap! You're going to love it! Emily and Jerry
Thanks for sharing, I did a 6.0 ls swap into my 1967 c 10 stepside. Iam loving it . Thier is a lot more to it than people tell us , for instances a posi rear cause the power is to much for a one tire peel , especially in wet road conditions.next is was a returning gas line to the fuel tank ug. Steem line from engine to waterpump.then there's the gauges n speedodometer . After all that I love that is starts right up after sitting a couple months in the winter no preparation, thanks .God bless yall real good 👍
I'm grateful that I just stumbled across your video and channel. You provide the type of educational instructional videos that actually show you details of how, what, and why to do _______! This style of video and HOST unfortunately seem to be very rare on the ole inner weebs today. Thank you (and crew you may have) for your time, effort and sharing your knowledge. Subscribed and binge-watching now. 👍😎
just seen your channel today, my son and I have been considering swaping a LS in our 1972 C30 Chevy flat bed. It belonged to my father's and has been sitting since 1997. We now have all the parts for the project and after your watching your video can check making it start of the list. I will check out all your videos and maybe see you at a event this year near Springfield MO.
We like to throw as much information at you as we can, and hope some of it sticks. 🤣 And wire colors can't always be trusted... #pinsdontlie 😁 We appreciate you watching!
I some what enjoy soildering and clamping. Car audio as a young man was my passion. gaining wisdom and proper tools changed my life. lol besides just twisting and black tape.
We have another swap coming up and I will make sure we show that. I use all of the original battery harness and basically just run a 6 gauge wire from the battery over to the drivers side and bolt it to the #1 lug on the fuse box. cover that wire in conduit use heavy duty crimp connections on both side of that #6. Thanks for watching We appreciate it. Jerry
Excellent job sir, you make it very self explanatory . An the lady, all so was very helpful just about asking all the questions needed, Thank s great job
Thanks Scott! We use AllData for our shop program, so we have a bluetooth scanner from them that just goes to a tablet. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Thanks for your videos. Got me re-energized on a project I started a long time ago. I put a low mileage '03 5.3 and 4L60E in a Jeep Comanche but due to various issues, it never got finished. I have the engine, transmission, 4:1crawl box and an aluminum Dana 300 transfer case that's not even made anymore mounted in the vehicle, but never got many parts of the project finished. The actual body is an '88, but it has a '93 Jeep Cherokee dash and main wiring harness that's been melded to the pickup part of the in cab harness. It has a Jeep TJ plastic fuel tank with a stock 5.3 fuel pump, but the tank/pump are not installed as the back of the cab has been cut off and I'm working on building a double triangulated 4 link suspension and eventually a cage to mount the tank to. I have the engine harness, transmission harness, Throttle Control Module with it's harness, electronic throttle, AND the '93 Cherokee engine harness with it's PDC (Power Distribution Center-under hood fuse block). I do NOT have a GM under hood fuse block nor any of the connectors other than the engine one. The engine compartment is a work in progress as I have narrowed the front grill and cut the inner fenders etc etc. The point is that there is not much room in there for the things that need to be in there. I like the idea of using a stock '03 vintage GM under hood fuse block, but would rather not have TWO under hood fuse boxes. Do you think it would be feasible to use parts of the GM fuse block not being used to run the engine etc. to take the place of the stock Jeep under hood fuse block? Have you ever done something like this? Jeff
Totally possible. We have not done that in the past but am pretty familiar with the jeep fuse block. It would for sure be a challenge of a persons wiring skills. The Jeep box is not the most reliable and if I we're building what you describe, that is exactly what I would do. Let us know if you get into it and how it goes. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Forward 2 months and I have torn the '93 Jeep engine bay harness apart and removed a bunch of stuff including the '93 Power Distribution Center (underhood fuse box.) I have laid the '03 engine harness on the engine in the engine bay and tried to figure out how it was originally laid out. In doing so, it soon became apparent that the '03 underhood fuse box was designed to go mid way up on the Drivers side fender well. Not going to work on my project. I managed to find a spot in my engine bay where I was able to shoe horn the '03 fuse box after doing a lot of cutting on the mounting bracket but it is in the passengers rear engine bay area. And, I could not find a great place for the computer and TAC. So, I tore the loom off the '03 harness and pulled every fuse wire back through the harness until they all exited the rear of the intake/engine. I then did the same for each computer wire! I routed the fuse wires to the fuse box area and the computer wires toward the drivers side back of the engine bay. I ended up doing some changes to the firewall but got the computer and TAC mounted up under the dash where the '88 Comanche computer lived! I then had to shorten or lengthen darn near every wire! I used a set of factory '03 manuals, '92 and '93 Jeep manuals, LT1swap.com and other internet searches for help. I think it'll work, but time will tell. :) Somewhere in this project I also decided a custom harness would have probably been a better choice. Anyway, there are some details that I am struggling with now. One being the fuel tank and vent. Not sure what to do. I live in WI where emissions are not a big deal, but I also don't want gas smell to be permeating the air with the tank vented to atmosphere. I've read through the '03 manual where it describes the stock '03 Evap system and it mentions a fuel tank pressure sensor, Purge solenoid, Vent Solenoid, and Evap canister. I think you kept the Evap Canister but what did you do about the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor? Also, I think there is a Control Module for this system. Any input? I also have questions about how to make A/C work on this project...not that I really need it, but it would be cool. I've watched your video on using the '03 A/C module, but I'm not really understanding the whole system. What do you do with the stock square body controls? What would I do with the stock '93 Jeep controls? I saw that you used an AC compressor that is not the '03 GM compressor. I have a non '03 GM, non '93 Jeep compressor mocked up in the same basic position as the stock '03 unit, but am not sure how to plumb it into a system. Again, not real important at this point, but if you've got input, I'm all ears. Thanks, Jeff
Something else to consider is that I removed the truck intake and front accessory drive, switched to a Corvette Harmonic Balancer and currently have a LS1 intake manifold with the truck fuel rails/injectors/crossover/throttle body in order to shorten and lower the whole engine package to better fit it in the rig (hood clears when closed!) I have a LS3 water pump mounted that clears the truck throttle body and locates the radiator output/input well. I am using a custom bracket to hold a power steering pump lower drivers side and the alternator upper drivers side (but lower and further drivers than the truck layout.) There is also a bracket to hold a York A/C compressor for onboard air on the upper passengers side. I thought this information may be helpful concerning the Purge solenoid and where exactly it would dump fumes compared to the truck intake manifold. Jeff
As always great video very informative you guys are the best... I don't know what I would do without you guys walking me through my swap so thank you for that..... MY QUESTION IS: I am working on a 1971 Caprice which does not have HEI ignition.... instead had a coil ignition, I'm curious as to what steps need to be done on pre-HEI ignitions? As far as my factory wires coming from my firewall I have two wires (+/-) for my coil in place of the one wire for HEI 🤷
Hello Mathew. That power wire that came from your junction block that lead to the positive side of the coil is probably a resistor wire and needs to be changed to a 14 gauge regular wire. That would be your new hot in run start and crank wire. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperienceanother question what's if my 1971 didn't have wire coming out of the firewall that went to a fuel pump, being that it used mechanical fuel pump on the side of the block, what do I do about the absent wire? Any input is greatly appreciated.... Thank you in advance
Thanks Hunter. That's a question we've had quite a bit. We'll be sure to cover that in a video soon! If there's a specific question you have, we'd be glad to try to answer it. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Have you guys ever swapped a 88 silverado obs and used a 700r4 transmission ...your installs are super clean I bought my harness for my first one but since I have seen your videos I'm going to use the stock harness on this next one
Hello Eric. The 700r4 uses a throttle vacuum cable to control its shifts which can be a problem especially if you are going fly by wire. If doing fly by cable you will need to run that cable up and have it operate similar to what it did with the throttle body. I have never used one for that reason. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience I will definitely have to find a vehicle that comes with a longer cable the one on that came on the 88 silverado Is at least 8 maybe 10 inches to short ...I want to thank you guys for sharing all the knowledge I appreciate all your videos
Hi Dustin! We appreciate you watching! Here's a link to a playlist for fuel system info. ruclips.net/p/PL3Xf8yWArPC4TUjRqrBmqWNkxiJSnf84p And here's a link to a video to power up the 4L60E. ruclips.net/video/FDF76UCmB4c/видео.html Thanks for tuning in!
@@UglyTruckExperience plan is bore the 5.3 to a 5.7 and full rebuild with Camaro heads with new summit pistons and rods with a chopacabra cam unless you guys have some ideas that go better together
Everything that we do for customers is all stock. We recently had a truck in with Truck Norris cam in it that we had to have tuned. It ended up running really nice. I don't have the time or equipment to tune so for the most part we stay away from changing anything that wouldn't be a stock tune. Let us know how it goes. Always curious to see how those combinations turn out. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
I was going to swap my 2001 suburban 5.3 into my 68 C10, but it's looking like that I'll be picking up a 76 C10 without a motor for my 15 yo daughter. This will be a great little project for the both of us. BTW, it look like that you folks are only about 45 minutes away from my brother in law who lives in Mount Vernon.
Your videos have been so helpful in swapping a 5.3 into my ‘87 El Camino. Due to space constraints in the G body I wasn’t able to use the factory fuse block. I have almost everything figured out due all the great resources on the web, but I haven’t been able to get clarity on wiring the starter. I’m assuming I should run a relay with the switch wire from key triggering purple wire to starter. Someone suggested running a diode to this relay to protect the circuit. Thanks for any insight.
The reason for running a relay for that starter wire is to reduce the amperage that is running through your ignition switch to that starter. If you still have the original gauge purple wire that will reach the starter solenoid you can just run it directly to starter. That 87 switch and wiring was made to handle that. If you do use a relay, there is no reason for diode but you would want it to be protected by a fuse. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
Cool great job I have a 1977 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 pickup and I have a 1985 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 SUBURBAN I'm restoring now it's painted now I was thinking about doing a LS swap.
When you guys use a factory 2005 truck engine harness do you take it apart and de pin and remove the the wires that don't get used or do you just use it as is? Example if you were doing a swap and using a non electric transmission like a 400 turbo would you de pin and eliminate the transmission wires from the harness?
Hey David. I have looked at the number of wires going to that ECM that we don't use and really didn't see the sense in removing them. Even if I wasn't using the electronic transmission I think I would keep them just in case I wanted to go with a electronic version in the future. I do cut the not needed wires off, heat shrink them and shove them back in the harness just for looks. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Thanks for your great videos. I have a 2002 fuse block. On the C1 connector, I'm using A9 pink for Run/Start. With this year, do you still use the A3 yellow? On Lt1swap for 2002 they say to use B11-Red. Only that makes no sense to me because I only need to quickly engage starter. At Lt1swap they go on to say that B11-Red feeds 12v battery + to ignition switch hot at all times. Are C1 connectors on 2002 and 03 and up color wired the same? I have a 85 wagoneer and my ignition switch is already feed from what used to be the Alternator and is battery hot now (with fuse links) like you showed us how to make. /again thanks for all you do to help us.
The 2002 wiring is different. Your trucks starter wire would go to f11 on connector #2. It is either purple with white tracer or might be yellow. A9 on C1 is correct for key on run power. B11 would work fine for supplying power to your interior fuse box as long as it is protected with link or a fuse which it sounds like you have done. We need to do a video on the 2002 and earlier one of these days. They are quite a bit different and it trips people up pretty often. Let us know how it goes. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Jerry and Emily, thanks again for taking the time to answer our questions. On the 2002 fuse block, my F11 is a yellow wire, circuit 1737 described as Neutral Safty Switch Park/Neutral Signal. The F10 is purple with a white tracer described as Starter Relay Coil Supply. I just wanted to check with you to see if I should still use F11 yellow for my crank wire or F10. Thanks again, Randy @@UglyTruckExperience
@@nanningying did you ever get clarification on this I have the same fuse block and now I’m confused thinking that it’s just the diff fuses and no big deal … of course assuming gets me all the time please help thanks
You would use a fusible link that is 4 wire gauge smaller than the wire you are trying to protect. For example. If your wire was 12 gauge wire you would use a 16 gauge fusible link to protect that circuit. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
It will go to A3 in Connector 1. It should be a bigger yellow wire. If you back it up just a bit to 16:16 he explains it a little more. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
I just tried starting my LS swapped S10 today using this wiring method and I think I might be using the wrong fuse box I have power in places that I should not have power when the key is off
Hi guys, love your videos! I see that you seem to focus on older precomputer swaps I’m currently considering a swap on my 2002 Sonoma and am wondering if you guys have any plans to do any work on anything similar? I really want it to use the factory gauges and speedometer etc.. thanks for your great content!!!!
My first truck was a 97 Silverado SWB step side 4x4! I haven't talked Jerry into swapping one yet, but it sounds like fun! Thanks for watching! --Emily
Thanks you are welcome Good infor. You broke it down real eazy & simple 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽❤️ i burn my whole cab harness & and motor harness i order off ebay and could have just did it that way 💪🏼💪🏼💯
I’m doing an LS swap in a FSJ. Your videos are the best. I have a issue that maybe you can help with. The 5.3 is coupled to a th400 what do I do with the park neutral switch? I really want to incorporate the p/n switch in the steering column of the Jeep. Any advise you have would be appreciated
Hello David. Give me some more details about your jeep. Year and any other info that would help. Donor motor and what you are using for a harness, etc. Will take a look at a wiring diagram and see what you are working with. Thanks. Jerry
Hello Brendan. The general rule would be to use a fusible link with a gauge that is four sizes smaller than the gauge of wire you are protecting. So If you have a 12 awg wire going to fuse box, you would use a 16 gauge fusible link. If you are using the OEM fuse box, you could use the fuse that protects lug number 2 eliminating the need for the link. Thanks. Jerry
Hello Bill. Your the first person to catch that. I see most of these done with the power leads tied to that lug on the firewall or another power source that is not protected. So I just try to stress the importance of protecting that circuit. In this case it doesn't hurt anything, but it is definitely overkill. Thanks. Jerry
Do you guys recall what you did with the brown wire that runs from the firewall bulkhead to the alternator? Im wiring up an almost identical swap (78 C10/ 04 Silverado donor) and see conflicting information on it.
You shouldn't have to do anything with that wire. I fold it over and throw some heat shrink over it. Doesn't have anything to do with the amp meter. Jerry
On the white connector, you have a yellow wire that you connect to starter solenoid wire on original harness (purple). I do not have the yellow wire. Harness is off 02 2500hd with same 6.0 engine.
The 2002 is a totally different monster. Your purple starter wire from the original trucks firewall will go to position F11 in connector number 2 in your donor fuse box. It will either be a purple wire with white tracer or could be a yellow wire. Hope that helps. Jerry
And do I just splice into the existing wire in the donor fuse box, or do I put the purple wire on firewall in place of that wire, removing the existing wire (purple wire with white tracer or yellow)
You can just spice your original purple from your truck to the wire that is going into position f11 on connector 2 and that will be your power that makes the starter relay work. What are you swapping a motor into?
Hello Mike, A 2000 is a hole different fuse box. The wire that you will need to supply a voltage to the starter relay is F11 in connector number 2 which I believe is black. Wire will be purple and white, or could be yellow.
I followed this to a T on my 72. Everything powers up, fuel pump turns on but it won't crank. Now if I take a wire and put it under the starter relay on #87, turn the key on and touch the wire to the positive of the battery it will crank, but not when the key is turned. I wish you could help and tell me why. I'm so close!
I want to do this exactly, but i dont want to use solder connectors, i want to depin, and repin.... where can i find the correct pins for gm connectors, and crimping tool.... thank you!
I haven't had to buy them but I have seen the pins that I would need on Amazon. I used to buy them from GM when I needed them just to make sure they were quality. I have tried to do that myself but came up short sometimes and ended up having to add some length anyway which defeated the purpose. Thanks Blake. We appreciate you watching. Jerry
Glad you liked it! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their scan tool. We pay a monthly fee, but it gives us all the info and wiring diagrams we need. We appreciate you watching!
As you mentioned about the main hot power wire (that originally came from the battery / starter) and now leads from the pcm / fuse box. Do I still need the “midi fuse” on the firewall for anything else?
If you are using the lug on the donor fuse box to power up the interior fuse box of the truck, you would not need another fuse. I know in this video I also used fusible link on that circuit. It was not necessary. I just don't want people out there creating circuits that are not protected by some form of fuse. You can run as many fuses you like on a circuit with no problems. But making a circuit with no protection can be a real problem. Thanks. Jerry
I just did my swap 83’ k10 got everything wired but where does the k10 alt plug go? I traced the 2 wire connector to starter large lug and the other runs to the bulk head…assuming to gauge in truck cluster. Where do you wire these into from here..thanks in advance!!
Hello Josh. Your original alternator wires, really wouldn't be used. There would be a large red wire that came from the alternator that went to your bulkhead at the firewall. That wire would go to a source for battery power depending on what you are using for a harness and fusebox for the LS. Jerry
Hi Brian! Sounds like a great project. Yes, you will need to have the security system (VATS) turned off on your computer. Here's a video that might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/otPF2laSGwc/видео.html Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry
Great video as always yall! Just curious if you've ever had an issue with the sending units not reading correctly with the fuel pump on? I go over it a little on my latest video on the 86 C10 I'm swapping. I used a Delphi sending unit for an 87 in the 87 tank with an AEM pump (Holley subsidiary). Anyway I was just wondering if you've had that problem before.
@@UglyTruckExperience Hey Jerry, it was a ground issue. The gauge would go to full when the pump was running. If the ignition was in the on position without the pump on, it would read accurately.
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you! I saw in one of your videos you’re planning on using the donor fuse/relay box to power the headlights etc, looking forward to that! I’m going to attempt to use it for the electric fans and other items on my next swap. Thanks for all the great content. You guys are awesome!
If you are using the original donor harness like we are in this video. The purple wire that goes to Yellow in the fuse box is used to fire up the Starter relay that sends power to your starter solenoid through the donor harness. Jerry
I love your videos, very easy to comprehend. Im interested in knowing what type or brand of scan tool your using. Im looking into buying one. Please let me know. Thanks.
We appreciate you watching! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and a tablet. It gives us all the wiring diagrams and info we need, but we do pay a monthly fee.
Would all these steps be the same for a originally 3.6 v6 2012 Camaro to swap a 4.8/5.3 into it and get it going? It came with a 6 speed so I’ll probably bolt it to that. I’ve never done a motor swap but I’ve done a few transmissions. I’m super nervous but this video helped
The 2012 twelve camaro was available with a V8 and and also the v6 which had around 300 horsepower. It will be a totally different monster to put a V8 in. Technically it should be easier when it comes to the wiring. If you give it a shot, please let us know. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Hello Christopher. I am using the PRNDL that is mounted on the side of the 4L60e and I am also using the neutral switch that would be mounted on the steering column of this truck. Before the truck leaves my shop I will bypass the original switch from the 78 and just rely on the 2004 PRNDL. Thanks. Jerry
On a California emissions car it depends on what year of car you are swapping. From what I understand, if you swapping into something under 1974 or 73, you are able to do the swap with just front sensors. If older than that you have to incorporate all from the donor vehicles emissions. Don't quote me on those years. Being out in CA you will need to do some research on exactly what your swapping and the laws that pertain to it. You can keep those sensors, no problem. You just have to get power from another source for the transmission or whatever else you might be running. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
The green connector goes to your headlamps, horn and crash sensors. If you don't think you will ever run the headlights off that oem box, go ahead and chuck it. I personally have never thrown anything car related away but that is just one of my problems. Thanks Waylon.
My pink wire on the bulkhead is dropping bolts down to 10 while cranking and I assume this what is not letting the LS fire off. Do you think ignition switch in the column in the problem.
I have a 79 square body. Want to do a swap. Question: do they make adapters if I wanna run a turbo 400 or 700 R4? Also what video show the engine swap. Great video 👍thanks
They do make adapters for bolting up the torque converter. The bell housings are already compatible, no adapter required. The 700r4 is exactly the same as the 4l60e so you may be better off with no adapter and just the electronic 4l60e. The 700r4 requires a throttle vacuum cable that moves with the accelerator cable which can be a problem on a swap especially if it is fly by wire. Here's a link to the engine and transmission install on this 78 Bonanza. We appreciate you watching! ruclips.net/video/XanlbyNiLzE/видео.html
Hey Gary. For the ignition wire, I would use the wire that came from your firewall and went to the positive side of the coil. You will need to change it to a standard wire, getting rid of the resistor wire. The purple wire going to the starter solenoid would be the same. The only thing that is different really is that resistor ignition wire. Hope that helps. Jerry
Is there a car oil pan that will work to solve low hanging oil pan problems for square body swap?? Using a '05 5.3 pickup motor Or possibly a parts solution to low hanging pan besides expensive after market pan? Eg. Riser engine mounts n tranny mounts to where only a modified driveshaft is needed. Cheaper to shorten driveshaft than buy new oil pan. Same idea for pickup tube, is it safe to cut n weld tube back together?
Hello Jon. You would save yourself some headache and probably some money by purchasing the lower profile pan. When you raise the engine up, you are also changing your driveshaft angle which is something you want to avoid. I have yet to find a cheaper solution and I have resorted to only using a Holley pan. Let us know what you end up going with. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience thanx Jerry n em, I was just hoping to find cost cutter idea...kinda forgot rear-end pitch angle.....appreciate your timely response...
Thanks. I normally respond quicker, but took a little vacation. One of these day's, I am going to get a nice tig welder and try to shorten my own pan. If I figure that out, I will have it made. Jerry
A 67 Malibu would have had a resistor wire that went the power side of the ignition coil. That would be the wire to use as long as you replace the resistor wire with a regular wire. Thanks Steve. Jerry
so on the C1 connector that i have from an 03 avalanche, A9 is pink, but on A3 there are two smaller black wires instead of a yellow. does that make any difference that there are the two wires? if not can i swap those for another thicker wire or do i need to go find a connector that has the yellow wire in the A3 location?
On my diagrams I only see A3 on connector 1 as a yellow wire. The only two black wires coming from it are in position C3. Look and see if you have a yellow wire in connector 2, position F11. If you do, you are probably working with a 2002 harness and fuse box. You might have been right on a production split and 2002 is totally different from 2003. Let me know. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience hey Jerry, I went ahead and swapped on a wire similar on size to the pink one. I'm going to head to the junk yard tomorrow and see how the connector is on another 03 avalanche and if it's different I'ma buy it. But if that fails I'm hoping to trace the wire through the box I have and run the vin off the donor to get it's specs. I do want to say thank you for reaching back and putting these videos out. I'm hoping to get to the point I can crank it and then work on fuel pumps for the dual tanks. I will let you guys know what I find out when comparing the c1 connectors off of an 02 and 03
That yellow wire will be the one that makes the starter engage when power is supplied to it. You must be working with a 2002 harness. Double check your other wiring. 2003 was very different from 2002. Jerry
I’ve enjoyed watching your videos. Super informative. I’m about to start a LS swap in a 78 c10. Who do you guys use to program your PCMs? Not many options locally to get mine done.
We appreciate you watching! We have two 86 C10's lined up for LS swaps, so if there's anything you'd like to see, let us know! We use LT1swap.com for our programming. He has a ton of info on his website, and is always quick to get them back to us. 👍
I enjoy your guys content also the info on were to send the computer I have a few other questions about this what fuel pump do you use and also how about the 02 sensors and knock sensors
So I’ve got a question. I’m doing a 5.3 swap on my 85 and I’m using the factory trailblazer harness. None of my pin outs line up with yours. Any idea which wires I need to tie into?
Sorry to bother you with this but my A3 on connector 1 has … 2 small black wires on it since I have the 00-02 slotted fuses would mine be d3 … since that’s my yellow wire ? Thanks any help would def be appreciated
Super simple is right! Lots of other simple ls swap vids go way past simple. Working on my first ls swap and wanted to know who you use to program the ecu and what all you have done to it? I’m running an 02 5.3, tbw with a 4l60e trans and want to keep ac also. Thanks for the advice. Def subscribed. Already gone through obd port, trans lock up and more.
Thanks so much for your comment! We use lt1swap.com/programming.htm for our programming. He has a ton of great LS swap info on his site, definitely worth checking out. On this truck we deleted VATS, rear O2 sensors, and had him program it for the gear ratio. Other than that, it is a stock tune. Here's a whole playlist of LS swap videos that might help you out! We really appreciate you watching! ruclips.net/p/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO
Question on wiring a Gen IV LS swap to 1967 Chevy truck (motor out of 2013 Camaro SS). Swap came with original harness, ECU and fuse box. Call has an X1 and X2 connector for ECU and X3 to the fuse box. How/where do I insert the 3 truck wires for starter, fuel pump and anything else? Appreciate the help.
That car uses the body control module to send a signal through a data connection to the pcm to start the car. It also uses a fuel pump module to control the fuel pump which is also a data connection. Much more complicated wiring system than the basic gen 3 and 4 ls wiring. I have not done one of these yet so I wouldn't call myself an expert on these for sure. I would get some advice from someone that programs that ecm. They may tell you some work arounds on the data connections or maybe have to use a different means to control that engine. Please let us know what is happening with it and I wish I was more help. Thanks Jerry
Hey Rodney! If your donor was an 02, check out this video instead. ruclips.net/video/COOzzFHCLRk/видео.html This video is for an 03-07 donor, but the good news is that on your 02, you won't need to do anything to make the transmission work other than plug it in. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
Hey Rodney! Sorry for the late response! Here are a couple of videos that should help you out. TCC Lockup: ruclips.net/video/yHUZ7JfQBbk/видео.html Speedometer Adapter Install: ruclips.net/video/hLqXYWG_WhY/видео.html
👋 Using a 4L60E transmission too? Check out this video! ▶▶ ruclips.net/video/FDF76UCmB4c/видео.html
I was sitting there all chill and learning from you And you had to break out solder on an automobile. Let me teach an old dog new tricks and go check out Devon vanderhoof on RUclips
Excellent video folks! First video of your's I have seen, I look forward to checking out more of your work! Both of you communicate well clear speaking so you can be understood as well as explaining in simple English. I deeply appreciate this! I have been intimidated by these new fangled engines as in LS type engines. Have been involved in cars & trucks since 1976. I look forward to learning so much more from you two and your videos! Thank you be safe and take care! ✌ 🇺🇸
Thank you! We had another LS swap show up last weekend, so there's plenty more LS content on the horizon! We appreciate you watching! 👋
I noticed you used a scan tool? To reset the fuel trim I did a ls swap on a 71 Camaro I got the engine running but not idling right do you think I need to adjust the fuel trim your answer will be greatly appreciated thank you
Can you give me a description of what it's doing? How it's idling?
I’ve watched this video 15 times. No exaggeration lol. Today I get to wire the truck and hopefully start it soon. I had to order a new throttle body and a few sensors but watching these videos gets me motivated to complete it. I just did the suspension, brakes, and bushings and it took longer than expected. Can’t wait it hear it run. 😅
It always takes longer than expected. How did the start go? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience my replacement starter isn’t fitting correctly so no start. Soon!
Are you running headers? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience yes, they are aftermarket. They came with the swap and we’re in the truck when I took ownership of the project. Someone recommended shims so I’m looking into that before spending more cash.
@@Fahrenheit_Motorsports you running?
There is always something to learn from your videos, I love that about your RUclips channel. Too many others don't give the details of how they do the work. Keep on keepin on!
You know we love details! 🤓
Exactly, my son and I watch to learn something new every video!
Thanks!!! We have been watching your videos and really enjoy them. We are behind on a couple of them and will catch up tomorrow night most likely. Keep at it and we will too.
Llpllllllllpplp p p opppppppl0
@clunkersandclassics needs to do some homework before he burns his Chevy nomad wagon up
This is the best wiring tutorial I’ve seen for ls squarebodies.
Thank you! 👋 We appreciate you watching! We have a bunch of other LS swap stuff too! ruclips.net/p/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO
Outstanding video! My tired 84 SBC 350 is just about ready to be replaced and I plan on doing a 6.0L LS swap and this is a massive help.
Thanks so much, and best of luck with your swap! You're going to love it! --Emily
My 15 year old son and i are in the process of doing this.
1987 stepside gmc and have a 05 tahoe doner. Have been watching your videos and it has been a lot of help.
Thank you.
Thanks Jwag! We appreciate you watching our stuff! Sounds like a great project. We were just talking this morning, out of all the trucks we've had, we've never had a stepside. Keep us posted on your swap! You're going to love it! Emily and Jerry
Thanks for sharing, I did a 6.0 ls swap into my 1967 c 10 stepside. Iam loving it . Thier is a lot more to it than people tell us , for instances a posi rear cause the power is to much for a one tire peel , especially in wet road conditions.next is was a returning gas line to the fuel tank ug. Steem line from engine to waterpump.then there's the gauges n speedodometer . After all that I love that is starts right up after sitting a couple months in the winter no preparation, thanks .God bless yall real good 👍
There is a lot more to it than people think. But it's definitely worth it!
Love these informative videos. Your channel is growing because of that as well! Thank You.
Thanks for watching!
I started watching these¹ because I heard they like to solder here. Soldering is what I'm into, I'm a Soldering fan!
😆 You came to the right place! Check out this video! 😁 ruclips.net/video/d8mcQl-rYr4/видео.html
I'm grateful that I just stumbled across your video and channel. You provide the type of educational instructional videos that actually show you details of how, what, and why to do _______! This style of video and HOST unfortunately seem to be very rare on the ole inner weebs today. Thank you (and crew you may have) for your time, effort and sharing your knowledge. Subscribed and binge-watching now. 👍😎
Thanks so much John! We're glad you found us! 😁 --Emily and Jerry
Your videos are awsome. I am making my list of parts for my first ls swap in a 69 c10. Thanks for taking the time to explain in layman's terms
You're going to love it!
You guys are amazing on what you do
Love your you tube channel. Lots to learn from you sr .
Thanks! We appreciate you watching!
Sunday morning beautiful, hearing that truck start was like a sermon an dinner waiting after service.. great job brother
Thanks William! We appreciate you watching!
very nice job on that truck. There is a lot of very cool custom work done in that engine compartment, and even on the whole truck!
Thanks 👍
just seen your channel today, my son and I have been considering swaping a LS in our 1972 C30 Chevy flat bed. It belonged to my father's and has been sitting since 1997. We now have all the parts for the project and after your watching your video can check making it start of the list. I will check out all your videos and maybe see you at a event this year near Springfield MO.
Sounds like an awesome project! If you see us around somewhere, be sure to say hey! Thanks for tuning in!
Recently came across your channel, very informative and will continue to watch. I really like the fact that you are using the factory harness
Glad you found us! There are a ton of reasons we like to use the factory harness. 👍 Thanks for watching. --Jerry
I like the way you show the position of the wire. i do the same thing in my videos because i have trouble with colors.
We like to throw as much information at you as we can, and hope some of it sticks. 🤣 And wire colors can't always be trusted... #pinsdontlie 😁 We appreciate you watching!
Keep the videos coming. I Love the simple way things are explained!!!❤
Thanks Slayer! We have plenty more videos on the way!
Great video! The explanation and demonstration are what so many others are lacking. Count me in I'm subscribed!
Thanks so much! We're just starting a couple LS swaps right now, so there's plenty more LS content headed your way! 👍👍
I some what enjoy soildering and clamping. Car audio as a young man was my passion. gaining wisdom and proper tools changed my life. lol besides just twisting and black tape.
Hey, the ol' twist and tape will get you home in a pinch! 😁 Thanks for tuning in!
I would like to see how you ran your battery wires from the stock location to the stock fuse block.Great Videos,very good information !
We have another swap coming up and I will make sure we show that. I use all of the original battery harness and basically just run a 6 gauge wire from the battery over to the drivers side and bolt it to the #1 lug on the fuse box. cover that wire in conduit use heavy duty crimp connections on both side of that #6. Thanks for watching We appreciate it. Jerry
Excellent job sir, you make it very self explanatory . An the lady, all so was very helpful just about asking all the questions needed, Thank s great job
Thanks so much, Carlos! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
I came for the wiring tips. I subscribed for the clamping and soldering.
😆 Thanks for subscribing! We appreciate it!
Nice lc. Really like the Toyota logo mod. Going to this on my 1997. I’m in the process of the ls swap. Lc has 400k miles.
I was curious as to the brand scan tool you were using . What a great how to video , thanks so much .
Thanks Scott! We use AllData for our shop program, so we have a bluetooth scanner from them that just goes to a tablet. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Thanks for your videos. Got me re-energized on a project I started a long time ago. I put a low mileage '03 5.3 and 4L60E in a Jeep Comanche but due to various issues, it never got finished. I have the engine, transmission, 4:1crawl box and an aluminum Dana 300 transfer case that's not even made anymore mounted in the vehicle, but never got many parts of the project finished. The actual body is an '88, but it has a '93 Jeep Cherokee dash and main wiring harness that's been melded to the pickup part of the in cab harness. It has a Jeep TJ plastic fuel tank with a stock 5.3 fuel pump, but the tank/pump are not installed as the back of the cab has been cut off and I'm working on building a double triangulated 4 link suspension and eventually a cage to mount the tank to.
I have the engine harness, transmission harness, Throttle Control Module with it's harness, electronic throttle, AND the '93 Cherokee engine harness with it's PDC (Power Distribution Center-under hood fuse block). I do NOT have a GM under hood fuse block nor any of the connectors other than the engine one. The engine compartment is a work in progress as I have narrowed the front grill and cut the inner fenders etc etc. The point is that there is not much room in there for the things that need to be in there.
I like the idea of using a stock '03 vintage GM under hood fuse block, but would rather not have TWO under hood fuse boxes. Do you think it would be feasible to use parts of the GM fuse block not being used to run the engine etc. to take the place of the stock Jeep under hood fuse block? Have you ever done something like this?
Jeff
Totally possible. We have not done that in the past but am pretty familiar with the jeep fuse block. It would for sure be a challenge of a persons wiring skills. The Jeep box is not the most reliable and if I we're building what you describe, that is exactly what I would do. Let us know if you get into it and how it goes. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Forward 2 months and I have torn the '93 Jeep engine bay harness apart and removed a bunch of stuff including the '93 Power Distribution Center (underhood fuse box.) I have laid the '03 engine harness on the engine in the engine bay and tried to figure out how it was originally laid out. In doing so, it soon became apparent that the '03 underhood fuse box was designed to go mid way up on the Drivers side fender well. Not going to work on my project. I managed to find a spot in my engine bay where I was able to shoe horn the '03 fuse box after doing a lot of cutting on the mounting bracket but it is in the passengers rear engine bay area. And, I could not find a great place for the computer and TAC. So, I tore the loom off the '03 harness and pulled every fuse wire back through the harness until they all exited the rear of the intake/engine. I then did the same for each computer wire! I routed the fuse wires to the fuse box area and the computer wires toward the drivers side back of the engine bay. I ended up doing some changes to the firewall but got the computer and TAC mounted up under the dash where the '88 Comanche computer lived! I then had to shorten or lengthen darn near every wire! I used a set of factory '03 manuals, '92 and '93 Jeep manuals, LT1swap.com and other internet searches for help. I think it'll work, but time will tell. :) Somewhere in this project I also decided a custom harness would have probably been a better choice.
Anyway, there are some details that I am struggling with now. One being the fuel tank and vent. Not sure what to do. I live in WI where emissions are not a big deal, but I also don't want gas smell to be permeating the air with the tank vented to atmosphere. I've read through the '03 manual where it describes the stock '03 Evap system and it mentions a fuel tank pressure sensor, Purge solenoid, Vent Solenoid, and Evap canister. I think you kept the Evap Canister but what did you do about the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor? Also, I think there is a Control Module for this system. Any input?
I also have questions about how to make A/C work on this project...not that I really need it, but it would be cool. I've watched your video on using the '03 A/C module, but I'm not really understanding the whole system. What do you do with the stock square body controls? What would I do with the stock '93 Jeep controls? I saw that you used an AC compressor that is not the '03 GM compressor. I have a non '03 GM, non '93 Jeep compressor mocked up in the same basic position as the stock '03 unit, but am not sure how to plumb it into a system. Again, not real important at this point, but if you've got input, I'm all ears.
Thanks, Jeff
Something else to consider is that I removed the truck intake and front accessory drive, switched to a Corvette Harmonic Balancer and currently have a LS1 intake manifold with the truck fuel rails/injectors/crossover/throttle body in order to shorten and lower the whole engine package to better fit it in the rig (hood clears when closed!) I have a LS3 water pump mounted that clears the truck throttle body and locates the radiator output/input well. I am using a custom bracket to hold a power steering pump lower drivers side and the alternator upper drivers side (but lower and further drivers than the truck layout.) There is also a bracket to hold a York A/C compressor for onboard air on the upper passengers side. I thought this information may be helpful concerning the Purge solenoid and where exactly it would dump fumes compared to the truck intake manifold. Jeff
Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing. It was super informative. I really appreciate it.
Thanks so much! Glad to hear it was helpful. We appreciate you tuning in!
Wow. Very informative and what a clean install. Great job.
Thank you! And thanks for watching! 👍
As always great video very informative you guys are the best... I don't know what I would do without you guys walking me through my swap so thank you for that..... MY QUESTION IS: I am working on a 1971 Caprice which does not have HEI ignition.... instead had a coil ignition, I'm curious as to what steps need to be done on pre-HEI ignitions? As far as my factory wires coming from my firewall I have two wires (+/-) for my coil in place of the one wire for HEI 🤷
Hello Mathew. That power wire that came from your junction block that lead to the positive side of the coil is probably a resistor wire and needs to be changed to a 14 gauge regular wire. That would be your new hot in run start and crank wire. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperienceanother question what's if my 1971 didn't have wire coming out of the firewall that went to a fuel pump, being that it used mechanical fuel pump on the side of the block, what do I do about the absent wire? Any input is greatly appreciated.... Thank you in advance
Very useful info, could you go more in depth of how you routed the battery wires?
Would really appreciate it.
Thanks Hunter. That's a question we've had quite a bit. We'll be sure to cover that in a video soon! If there's a specific question you have, we'd be glad to try to answer it. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
I can’t afforded college, I work 60 hours a week to try to provide for my family, thank you
We appreciate you taking the time to watch our videos!
Have you guys ever swapped a 88 silverado obs and used a 700r4 transmission ...your installs are super clean I bought my harness for my first one but since I have seen your videos I'm going to use the stock harness on this next one
Hello Eric. The 700r4 uses a throttle vacuum cable to control its shifts which can be a problem especially if you are going fly by wire. If doing fly by cable you will need to run that cable up and have it operate similar to what it did with the throttle body. I have never used one for that reason. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience I will definitely have to find a vehicle that comes with a longer cable the one on that came on the 88 silverado Is at least 8 maybe 10 inches to short ...I want to thank you guys for sharing all the knowledge I appreciate all your videos
Wow, like it. Serious work with little funny comments. Great job.! .
We try to keep it fun! 😁 Thanks for watching!
You should do a video on hooking up your fuel system,and if your running a 4l60,I'm swaping 5.3 into 80 monte with 4l60e n 5.3 stock harness ecu
Hi Dustin! We appreciate you watching! Here's a link to a playlist for fuel system info. ruclips.net/p/PL3Xf8yWArPC4TUjRqrBmqWNkxiJSnf84p
And here's a link to a video to power up the 4L60E. ruclips.net/video/FDF76UCmB4c/видео.html Thanks for tuning in!
Thanks for another great video and the swap looks very clean and you guys make it looks very easy to do one question what scanner you used
Thanks! And thanks for watching! We use AllData.
Glad I found this channel sure it will help me a lot when I do my 01 Sierra.
We hope it helps. What are you going to be doing to the Sierra? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience plan is bore the 5.3 to a 5.7 and full rebuild with Camaro heads with new summit pistons and rods with a chopacabra cam unless you guys have some ideas that go better together
Everything that we do for customers is all stock. We recently had a truck in with Truck Norris cam in it that we had to have tuned. It ended up running really nice. I don't have the time or equipment to tune so for the most part we stay away from changing anything that wouldn't be a stock tune. Let us know how it goes. Always curious to see how those combinations turn out. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
I was going to swap my 2001 suburban 5.3 into my 68 C10, but it's looking like that I'll be picking up a 76 C10 without a motor for my 15 yo daughter. This will be a great little project for the both of us.
BTW, it look like that you folks are only about 45 minutes away from my brother in law who lives in Mount Vernon.
Small world! That sounds like an awesome project! If you guys have any questions along the way, just leave us a comment and we'll do our best to help!
Your videos have been so helpful in swapping a 5.3 into my ‘87 El Camino. Due to space constraints in the G body I wasn’t able to use the factory fuse block. I have almost everything figured out due all the great resources on the web, but I haven’t been able to get clarity on wiring the starter. I’m assuming I should run a relay with the switch wire from key triggering purple wire to starter. Someone suggested running a diode to this relay to protect the circuit. Thanks for any insight.
The reason for running a relay for that starter wire is to reduce the amperage that is running through your ignition switch to that starter. If you still have the original gauge purple wire that will reach the starter solenoid you can just run it directly to starter. That 87 switch and wiring was made to handle that. If you do use a relay, there is no reason for diode but you would want it to be protected by a fuse. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience awesome, thank you so much for such a quick reply.
Cool great job I have a 1977 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 pickup and I have a 1985 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 SUBURBAN I'm restoring now it's painted now I was thinking about doing a LS swap.
Thanks Ray! You definitely won't regret it after the first test drive! 😁
@UglyTruckExperience Thank you for the reply question can the 700R4 work with the LS?
It can, but the cable on the 700r4 makes it very difficult. You will be much happier to go with the 4l60e. Jerry
When you guys use a factory 2005 truck engine harness do you take it apart and de pin and remove the the wires that don't get used or do you just use it as is? Example if you were doing a swap and using a non electric transmission like a 400 turbo would you de pin and eliminate the transmission wires from the harness?
Hey David. I have looked at the number of wires going to that ECM that we don't use and really didn't see the sense in removing them. Even if I wasn't using the electronic transmission I think I would keep them just in case I wanted to go with a electronic version in the future. I do cut the not needed wires off, heat shrink them and shove them back in the harness just for looks. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Same way I sell my swaps on a runstand. Only thing I didn't see was c1 connector b11. Which is needs a constant 12v supply. For the ecu
On this application pin b11 in connector 1 is the power supply for a power sun roof. Thanks for watching.
Makes wiring look fun, good content .
Thanks Jeremy. I think wiring is fun and am glad the video comes across that way. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Thanks for your great videos. I have a 2002 fuse block. On the C1 connector, I'm using A9 pink for Run/Start. With this year, do you still use the A3 yellow? On Lt1swap for 2002 they say to use B11-Red. Only that makes no sense to me because I only need to quickly engage starter. At Lt1swap they go on to say that B11-Red feeds 12v battery + to ignition switch hot at all times. Are C1 connectors on 2002 and 03 and up color wired the same? I have a 85 wagoneer and my ignition switch is already feed from what used to be the Alternator and is battery hot now (with fuse links) like you showed us how to make. /again thanks for all you do to help us.
The 2002 wiring is different. Your trucks starter wire would go to f11 on connector #2. It is either purple with white tracer or might be yellow. A9 on C1 is correct for key on run power. B11 would work fine for supplying power to your interior fuse box as long as it is protected with link or a fuse which it sounds like you have done. We need to do a video on the 2002 and earlier one of these days. They are quite a bit different and it trips people up pretty often. Let us know how it goes. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Jerry and Emily, thanks again for taking the time to answer our questions. On the 2002 fuse block, my F11 is a yellow wire, circuit 1737 described as Neutral Safty Switch Park/Neutral Signal. The F10 is purple with a white tracer described as Starter Relay Coil Supply. I just wanted to check with you to see if I should still use F11 yellow for my crank wire or F10. Thanks again, Randy @@UglyTruckExperience
@@nanningying did you ever get clarification on this I have the same fuse block and now I’m confused thinking that it’s just the diff fuses and no big deal … of course assuming gets me all the time please help thanks
Just found your channel. Americans doing America stuff! Had to sub.
💪😎 Thanks for subscribing! Glad you found us!
Your camera girl is smart and quick witted 😂😂😂. Nice “how to” video!
I like to keep him on his toes. 😂😂 We appreciate you watching!
Cleanest video I’ve seen so far.. I got a question can I do this with a stock Colorado fuse box following your steps so it could start🎉
Hello Jonathan. You would need to elaborate a bit. What are you swapping and using in your swap? Jerry
What size fuseable link should be used to not double them up? Love the video's but wish there were more on the 70. Swapping a 68'.
You would use a fusible link that is 4 wire gauge smaller than the wire you are trying to protect. For example. If your wire was 12 gauge wire you would use a 16 gauge fusible link to protect that circuit. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
At 16:32 you said “used to go to the starter “ in regards to the purple wire. where dose it go now?
It will go to A3 in Connector 1. It should be a bigger yellow wire. If you back it up just a bit to 16:16 he explains it a little more. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperiencemy A3 is 2 black thin wires should i connect to those? My donor is a 2002 DBW Tahoe
That's what mine is like also. Did you ever figure out if the 2 black wires worked @jesusrosales6864
I just tried starting my LS swapped S10 today using this wiring method and I think I might be using the wrong fuse box I have power in places that I should not have power when the key is off
Does your fuse box have large rectangular fuses or square fuses? Jerry
Hi guys, love your videos! I see that you seem to focus on older precomputer swaps I’m currently considering a swap on my 2002 Sonoma and am wondering if you guys have any plans to do any work on anything similar? I really want it to use the factory gauges and speedometer etc.. thanks for your great content!!!!
We are always open to doing a swap on anything, but don't have anything like that on our schedule right now. Would be an interesting one though. Jerry
Definitely one of my faves!
Thanks William. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
I'm planning on a swap on my 1997 silverado with a 2004 6.0 this helped alot thanks
My first truck was a 97 Silverado SWB step side 4x4! I haven't talked Jerry into swapping one yet, but it sounds like fun! Thanks for watching! --Emily
I watched your video and I’m in I’m subscribed great information
Thanks for subscribing!
Thanks you are welcome
Good infor. You broke it down real eazy & simple 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽❤️ i burn my whole cab harness & and motor harness i order off ebay and could have just did it that way 💪🏼💪🏼💯
Thanks for watching!
I’m doing an LS swap in a FSJ. Your videos are the best. I have a issue that maybe you can help with. The 5.3 is coupled to a th400 what do I do with the park neutral switch? I really want to incorporate the p/n switch in the steering column of the Jeep. Any advise you have would be appreciated
Hello David. Give me some more details about your jeep. Year and any other info that would help. Donor motor and what you are using for a harness, etc. Will take a look at a wiring diagram and see what you are working with. Thanks. Jerry
New Subscriber! Can’t wait to do a LS swap on my Dads (original owner) ‘76 Stepside
Thanks for subscribing! That sounds like an awesome project! You're definitely going to love it! 😁
16:54 the greatest part of this video is when the camera lady sats, “you said, ‘butt’ “. Lol😅
😆😆 Glad someone appreciates my jokes! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
What size of fusable link should be used for wire going to interior power ? Thanks for the great videos !
Hello Brendan. The general rule would be to use a fusible link with a gauge that is four sizes smaller than the gauge of wire you are protecting. So If you have a 12 awg wire going to fuse box, you would use a 16 gauge fusible link. If you are using the OEM fuse box, you could use the fuse that protects lug number 2 eliminating the need for the link. Thanks. Jerry
Do you have a video of hooking up the a/c and cruise control systems?
Yep, here you go! Thanks for watching!
CRUISE CONTROL: ruclips.net/video/UtX16_j0JlQ/видео.html
A/C WIRING: ruclips.net/video/tv1LtLT9zmM/видео.html
@@UglyTruckExperience Thank you!
New subscriber and already hooked!! Very useful for my 74 c10 ls swap..
Welcome aboard! 👋
Awesome job !!explaining everything best video I ever seen
Thank you! We appreciate you watching!
Wow, you guys made that look easy.
Thanks Rich, we appreciate you watching. Keep us posted on the 81.
Question... why use a fusible like on constant power into the cab when the lug you are connecting it to is already protected with a 40 amp fuse?
Hello Bill. Your the first person to catch that. I see most of these done with the power leads tied to that lug on the firewall or another power source that is not protected. So I just try to stress the importance of protecting that circuit. In this case it doesn't hurt anything, but it is definitely overkill. Thanks. Jerry
Do you guys recall what you did with the brown wire that runs from the firewall bulkhead to the alternator? Im wiring up an almost identical swap (78 C10/ 04 Silverado donor) and see conflicting information on it.
You shouldn't have to do anything with that wire. I fold it over and throw some heat shrink over it. Doesn't have anything to do with the amp meter. Jerry
@ that’s what I was leaning towards. Thanks for the confirmation!
On the white connector, you have a yellow wire that you connect to starter solenoid wire on original harness (purple). I do not have the yellow wire. Harness is off 02 2500hd with same 6.0 engine.
Ok give me a second.
The 2002 is a totally different monster. Your purple starter wire from the original trucks firewall will go to position F11 in connector number 2 in your donor fuse box. It will either be a purple wire with white tracer or could be a yellow wire. Hope that helps. Jerry
And do I just splice into the existing wire in the donor fuse box, or do I put the purple wire on firewall in place of that wire, removing the existing wire (purple wire with white tracer or yellow)
You can just spice your original purple from your truck to the wire that is going into position f11 on connector 2 and that will be your power that makes the starter relay work. What are you swapping a motor into?
Another question haha. Do you leave the transmission wiring or do you get rid of that?
I have a harness out of a 2000 Silverado, On the white fuse block you said we use for starter was yellow (A3) but mine in A3 is 2 black wires.
Hello Mike, A 2000 is a hole different fuse box. The wire that you will need to supply a voltage to the starter relay is F11 in connector number 2 which I believe is black. Wire will be purple and white, or could be yellow.
Thanks. I just checked it and the wire in F11 is light blue. Now I’m really stumped. 😂
F11 on what connector
@@UglyTruckExperience my bad. Wrong connector but black connector doesn’t have a wire In F11
Is the wire in D11 Purple?
I followed this to a T on my 72. Everything powers up, fuel pump turns on but it won't crank. Now if I take a wire and put it under the starter relay on #87, turn the key on and touch the wire to the positive of the battery it will crank, but not when the key is turned.
I wish you could help and tell me why. I'm so close!
Hey Gary. What is your harness and fuse box from? Jerry
I want to do this exactly, but i dont want to use solder connectors, i want to depin, and repin.... where can i find the correct pins for gm connectors, and crimping tool.... thank you!
I haven't had to buy them but I have seen the pins that I would need on Amazon. I used to buy them from GM when I needed them just to make sure they were quality. I have tried to do that myself but came up short sometimes and ended up having to add some length anyway which defeated the purpose. Thanks Blake. We appreciate you watching. Jerry
Very useful info! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Sam. We have a bunch more on the way. Thanks. Jerry
That was one of my my question how does the power to the cab get there , thanks ....
Yep, that's a pretty important wire if you want to use the key to start it! 😁 Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed this video it was very informative. What are you using for a scan tool. I need to get one for my swap projects.
Glad you liked it! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their scan tool. We pay a monthly fee, but it gives us all the info and wiring diagrams we need. We appreciate you watching!
As you mentioned about the main hot power wire (that originally came from the battery / starter) and now leads from the pcm / fuse box.
Do I still need the “midi fuse” on the firewall for anything else?
If you are using the lug on the donor fuse box to power up the interior fuse box of the truck, you would not need another fuse. I know in this video I also used fusible link on that circuit. It was not necessary. I just don't want people out there creating circuits that are not protected by some form of fuse. You can run as many fuses you like on a circuit with no problems. But making a circuit with no protection can be a real problem. Thanks. Jerry
Thank you for what you do! All of your videos are by far the best explanations I’ve found. I think I’ve watched this one 10 times already.
I just did my swap 83’ k10 got everything wired but where does the k10 alt plug go? I traced the 2 wire connector to starter large lug and the other runs to the bulk head…assuming to gauge in truck cluster. Where do you wire these into from here..thanks in advance!!
Hello Josh. Your original alternator wires, really wouldn't be used. There would be a large red wire that came from the alternator that went to your bulkhead at the firewall. That wire would go to a source for battery power depending on what you are using for a harness and fusebox for the LS. Jerry
Great video well explain for the average person
Thank you Tony. We appreciate you watching..
Love the videos, I'm taking out 5.3 vortex from donor an putting in a '40 ford,do I need to delete anything on computer for it to run
Hi Brian! Sounds like a great project. Yes, you will need to have the security system (VATS) turned off on your computer. Here's a video that might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/otPF2laSGwc/видео.html Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry
Great video as always yall! Just curious if you've ever had an issue with the sending units not reading correctly with the fuel pump on? I go over it a little on my latest video on the 86 C10 I'm swapping. I used a Delphi sending unit for an 87 in the 87 tank with an AEM pump (Holley subsidiary). Anyway I was just wondering if you've had that problem before.
Have not had that issue but sounds like it would have to be a grounding issue. What does the gauge do with the pump on? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Hey Jerry, it was a ground issue. The gauge would go to full when the pump was running. If the ignition was in the on position without the pump on, it would read accurately.
Awesome. Glad you found the problem. I think that's why I like wiring so much, because of the weird things that happen.
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you! I saw in one of your videos you’re planning on using the donor fuse/relay box to power the headlights etc, looking forward to that! I’m going to attempt to use it for the electric fans and other items on my next swap. Thanks for all the great content. You guys are awesome!
Excellent information, thanks for sharing this with us...!!! Where are you located?
Thanks for watching! We're in SW Missouri. 👍
If you put yellow wire to the purple that went to solenoid . What tire did you use for starter
If you are using the original donor harness like we are in this video. The purple wire that goes to Yellow in the fuse box is used to fire up the Starter relay that sends power to your starter solenoid through the donor harness. Jerry
I love your videos, very easy to comprehend. Im interested in knowing what type or brand of scan tool your using. Im looking into buying one. Please let me know. Thanks.
We appreciate you watching! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and a tablet. It gives us all the wiring diagrams and info we need, but we do pay a monthly fee.
Would all these steps be the same for a originally 3.6 v6 2012 Camaro to swap a 4.8/5.3 into it and get it going? It came with a 6 speed so I’ll probably bolt it to that. I’ve never done a motor swap but I’ve done a few transmissions. I’m super nervous but this video helped
The 2012 twelve camaro was available with a V8 and and also the v6 which had around 300 horsepower. It will be a totally different monster to put a V8 in. Technically it should be easier when it comes to the wiring. If you give it a shot, please let us know. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
how are you defeating the neutral safety switch? My swap wont start without the switch installed.
Hello Christopher. I am using the PRNDL that is mounted on the side of the 4L60e and I am also using the neutral switch that would be mounted on the steering column of this truck. Before the truck leaves my shop I will bypass the original switch from the 78 and just rely on the 2004 PRNDL. Thanks. Jerry
Would this Witing method still allow the o2 sensors to function properly would it eliminate them… I want to keep them to pass Cali emission
On a California emissions car it depends on what year of car you are swapping. From what I understand, if you swapping into something under 1974 or 73, you are able to do the swap with just front sensors. If older than that you have to incorporate all from the donor vehicles emissions. Don't quote me on those years. Being out in CA you will need to do some research on exactly what your swapping and the laws that pertain to it. You can keep those sensors, no problem. You just have to get power from another source for the transmission or whatever else you might be running. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Should I save the green C4 connector for any future things? Or will I never need it
The green connector goes to your headlamps, horn and crash sensors. If you don't think you will ever run the headlights off that oem box, go ahead and chuck it. I personally have never thrown anything car related away but that is just one of my problems. Thanks Waylon.
@@UglyTruckExperience haha same. I will more than likely keep the connector itself and the short pieces of wiring around
My pink wire on the bulkhead is dropping bolts down to 10 while cranking and I assume this what is not letting the LS fire off. Do you think ignition switch in the column in the problem.
What is your battery voltage at the battery while cranking?
I have a 79 square body. Want to do a swap. Question: do they make adapters if I wanna run a turbo 400 or 700 R4? Also what video show the engine swap. Great video 👍thanks
They do make adapters for bolting up the torque converter. The bell housings are already compatible, no adapter required. The 700r4 is exactly the same as the 4l60e so you may be better off with no adapter and just the electronic 4l60e. The 700r4 requires a throttle vacuum cable that moves with the accelerator cable which can be a problem on a swap especially if it is fly by wire.
Here's a link to the engine and transmission install on this 78 Bonanza. We appreciate you watching! ruclips.net/video/XanlbyNiLzE/видео.html
What are the three wires you would use off of a 1972 gmc Jimmy? Most of your swaps are 1973+ square bodies. No hei on a 1973. Which do you suggest?
Hey Gary. For the ignition wire, I would use the wire that came from your firewall and went to the positive side of the coil. You will need to change it to a standard wire, getting rid of the resistor wire. The purple wire going to the starter solenoid would be the same. The only thing that is different really is that resistor ignition wire. Hope that helps. Jerry
Is there a car oil pan that will work to solve low hanging oil pan problems for square body swap?? Using a '05 5.3 pickup motor Or possibly a parts solution to low hanging pan besides expensive after market pan? Eg. Riser engine mounts n tranny mounts to where only a modified driveshaft is needed. Cheaper to shorten driveshaft than buy new oil pan. Same idea for pickup tube, is it safe to cut n weld tube back together?
Hello Jon. You would save yourself some headache and probably some money by purchasing the lower profile pan. When you raise the engine up, you are also changing your driveshaft angle which is something you want to avoid. I have yet to find a cheaper solution and I have resorted to only using a Holley pan. Let us know what you end up going with. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience thanx Jerry n em, I was just hoping to find cost cutter idea...kinda forgot rear-end pitch angle.....appreciate your timely response...
Thanks. I normally respond quicker, but took a little vacation. One of these day's, I am going to get a nice tig welder and try to shorten my own pan. If I figure that out, I will have it made. Jerry
A9/hot/run/start you used the wire that used to go toHEI distance.
Which wire would it be on a 67 malibu.?
A 67 Malibu would have had a resistor wire that went the power side of the ignition coil. That would be the wire to use as long as you replace the resistor wire with a regular wire. Thanks Steve. Jerry
so on the C1 connector that i have from an 03 avalanche, A9 is pink, but on A3 there are two smaller black wires instead of a yellow. does that make any difference that there are the two wires? if not can i swap those for another thicker wire or do i need to go find a connector that has the yellow wire in the A3 location?
On my diagrams I only see A3 on connector 1 as a yellow wire. The only two black wires coming from it are in position C3. Look and see if you have a yellow wire in connector 2, position F11. If you do, you are probably working with a 2002 harness and fuse box. You might have been right on a production split and 2002 is totally different from 2003. Let me know. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience hey Jerry, I went ahead and swapped on a wire similar on size to the pink one. I'm going to head to the junk yard tomorrow and see how the connector is on another 03 avalanche and if it's different I'ma buy it. But if that fails I'm hoping to trace the wire through the box I have and run the vin off the donor to get it's specs. I do want to say thank you for reaching back and putting these videos out. I'm hoping to get to the point I can crank it and then work on fuel pumps for the dual tanks. I will let you guys know what I find out when comparing the c1 connectors off of an 02 and 03
@@UglyTruckExperience hey jerry, just got off work and checked C2 F11 and there is a yellow wire in that location
@@UglyTruckExperience do you know what the yellow wire does that you pointed out?
That yellow wire will be the one that makes the starter engage when power is supplied to it. You must be working with a 2002 harness. Double check your other wiring. 2003 was very different from 2002. Jerry
Can you make a video if you can use a factory fuel pump or what you use and hook up.. couldnt find in your videos.. mybe I didn't look hard enuff
We just recorded that video recently and it will be coming out shortly. Thanks Benjamin. We appreciate you watching.
Hey Jerry, can you give me an idea of what size fuseable link to use?
Hey Joey. What circuit are you protecting?
@@UglyTruckExperience the interior fuse box as you did in the video
I’ve enjoyed watching your videos. Super informative. I’m about to start a LS swap in a 78 c10. Who do you guys use to program your PCMs? Not many options locally to get mine done.
We appreciate you watching! We have two 86 C10's lined up for LS swaps, so if there's anything you'd like to see, let us know! We use LT1swap.com for our programming. He has a ton of info on his website, and is always quick to get them back to us. 👍
I enjoy your guys content also the info on were to send the computer I have a few other questions about this what fuel pump do you use and also how about the 02 sensors and knock sensors
I really enjoy your show. I would like to know where are y’all located?
Thanks Tonie! We're just outside of Springfield, MO. Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry
So I’ve got a question. I’m doing a 5.3 swap on my 85 and I’m using the factory trailblazer harness. None of my pin outs line up with yours. Any idea which wires I need to tie into?
What year is the Trailblazer?
I just hit the subscription button bud.really good info
That's awesome! Thank you! 👍
What's the price on something like ls swap?
Sorry to bother you with this but my A3 on connector 1 has … 2 small black wires on it since I have the 00-02 slotted fuses would mine be d3 … since that’s my yellow wire ? Thanks any help would def be appreciated
Hello. This video covers the 00-02. It should help. studio.ruclips.net/user/videoCOOzzFHCLRk/edit
After I do the same wiring should I be able to drive it right after I fire it up
Yes, as long as your transmission is wired up also. Check out this video. ruclips.net/video/FDF76UCmB4c/видео.html We appreciate you watching!
Super simple is right! Lots of other simple ls swap vids go way past simple. Working on my first ls swap and wanted to know who you use to program the ecu and what all you have done to it? I’m running an 02 5.3, tbw with a 4l60e trans and want to keep ac also. Thanks for the advice. Def subscribed. Already gone through obd port, trans lock up and more.
Thanks so much for your comment! We use lt1swap.com/programming.htm for our programming. He has a ton of great LS swap info on his site, definitely worth checking out. On this truck we deleted VATS, rear O2 sensors, and had him program it for the gear ratio. Other than that, it is a stock tune.
Here's a whole playlist of LS swap videos that might help you out! We really appreciate you watching! ruclips.net/p/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO
@@UglyTruckExperience that’s who I was planning on using. Thanks for the advice and content.
What you do bout foot pedal
Question on wiring a Gen IV LS swap to 1967 Chevy truck (motor out of 2013 Camaro SS). Swap came with original harness, ECU and fuse box. Call has an X1 and X2 connector for ECU and X3 to the fuse box. How/where do I insert the 3 truck wires for starter, fuel pump and anything else? Appreciate the help.
Are you using the body control module also?
@@UglyTruckExperience No, I am not using the BCM.
Is that engine L86. Making sure I'm looking at right wiring diagram.
@@UglyTruckExperience LS3 motor from 2013 Camaro SS donor car. Appreciate you taking a look.
That car uses the body control module to send a signal through a data connection to the pcm to start the car. It also uses a fuel pump module to control the fuel pump which is also a data connection. Much more complicated wiring system than the basic gen 3 and 4 ls wiring. I have not done one of these yet so I wouldn't call myself an expert on these for sure. I would get some advice from someone that programs that ecm. They may tell you some work arounds on the data connections or maybe have to use a different means to control that engine. Please let us know what is happening with it and I wish I was more help. Thanks Jerry
Have you done this swap in a 73-79 ford f150?
We haven't, but that would be pretty sweet!
Does anything need to be done to transmission wiring? Reverse lights , Nuetral safety switch? If so a video would be great!!! 74 Blazer, 02 5.3/4l60.
Hey Rodney! If your donor was an 02, check out this video instead. ruclips.net/video/COOzzFHCLRk/видео.html This video is for an 03-07 donor, but the good news is that on your 02, you won't need to do anything to make the transmission work other than plug it in. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
@UglyTruckExperience Thank you for your response. Does this include stall lock up?
@@UglyTruckExperience what mechanical speedometer adapter do you use for original gauges?? 5.3 swap 74 Blazer
Hey Rodney! Sorry for the late response! Here are a couple of videos that should help you out. TCC Lockup: ruclips.net/video/yHUZ7JfQBbk/видео.html Speedometer Adapter Install: ruclips.net/video/hLqXYWG_WhY/видео.html