Parts Lists & Links for Building Your Own Treadmill Motor Power Supply
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- I have made a lot of videos on DIY treadmill motor power supplies and subsequently have had lots of questions and comments asking where to purchase specific parts. In this video I go over the parts needed for the 3 most common types of treadmill power supplies. If you are looking for information and schematics on how to hook all of this up you will need to look at my other videos. This is just the components needed. Links to these parts through Amazon are below.
Affiliate links to items in this video:
MC60:
10K potentiometer amzn.to/3QAtiES
20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh
OR
15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
MC2100:
PWM signal generator for the MC 2100 amzn.to/3z3ivu3
20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh
OR
15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
Toroid Core for AC inductor/choke amzn.to/3QTk5Zs
Variable Transformer:
Variable transformer with 130 max volts amzn.to/3RdWxyh
100 amp Bridge rectifier amzn.to/40DjWg6
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
Toroid Core for AC inductor/choke amzn.to/3QTk5Zs
SCR Voltage controller:
SCR voltage controller amzn.to/47vUify
100 amp Bridge rectifier amzn.to/40DjWg6
20 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3ufQDRh
OR
15 Amp circuit breaker amzn.to/3FgoQGP
Emergency stop switch amzn.to/43mgveT
3PDT direction switch amzn.to/3ZShNLG
OR
DPDT center of switch amzn.to/46hjbdM
Toroid Core for AC inductor/choke amzn.to/3QTk5Zs
10K potentiometer amzn.to/3QAtiES
20K potentiometer amzn.to/3Srib1a
100K potentiometer amzn.to/46anc3O
150K potentiometer amzn.to/3zxc96l
Enclosures and enclosure parts:
8” X 6” X 4” hinged box amzn.to/3jPndaR
8” X 10” X 4” Power supply box amzn.to/3HEHeun
12” x 12” x 4” Large component box amzn.to/3Imerv6
7.9” x 4.7” x 2.95” Large plastic box amzn.to/3nQEylT
6.22” x 3.54” x 2.36” Medium plastic box (the one I put all the parts in) amzn.to/40JB9nn
Cable Gland amzn.to/3VZNrWb
Other Items:
Vinyl and Fabric Coating Spray Paint amzn.to/49B1Dfo
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission.
Not being an electrical engineer I do not have any specs on the motor choke, what I can do however is offer you some guidelines. First of all bigger is better. I have several motor chokes ranging from the size of a tennis ball to the size of a soft ball and the bigger they are the better they work. Second the wire for the choke needs to be a minimum of 16 awg. If the wire is not that big or better it will not have the amperage capacity to allow the motor to work properly. Amperage is the most important spec. A lot of the chokes available on line are rated in mA. there are 1000 mA in an amp. Treadmill motors are rated in amps so most chokes available on line are several hundred times too small. Third they are not available on Amazon at least not inexpensively, there are a few privet sellers on Amazon selling used parts for big bucks but the available chokes on amazon are too small because they are not designed for a motor even though they look correct in the picture they are way too small. The choke in most of my videos is part number 130993. Instead of getting one new I would get a used one. A lot of treadmills come with a choke. Go to eBay and search “treadmill motor choke” BUT know that most people on eBay don’t know what they have and the word “transformer" will also appear in most listings. Problem is a choke and a transformer look almost identical so some listings are for transformers and some are fore chokes because the sellers think they are interchangeable. They are not. They would only be interchangeable if you modify a transformer to work as a choke. (see my DIY choke video) To tell the difference count the wires. A choke will only have 2 wires, a transformer will have 3 or more. Also before I started doing videos chokes on eBay could be had for $25 or less shipped but now that more people are looking for them (due to my videos) the eBay sellers have raised their prices quite a bit. Your best bet might be the DIY option out of a Microwave transformer. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. 
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Thank you 100x over. I am new to this after finally getting my hands on a Nortic Trak treadmill and I dismanufactured it so I have a good 2100 board and 1300vDC motor. I spent my free time the past day or two trying to get the basics figured out and this is awsome for a guy like me.
Now I need to decide what I want to make with it -band saw, big belt sander, light duty milling machine oh my, I might need a couple more treadmills 😂
Glad it was helpful! Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
Best treadmill to equipment motor control build on RUclips. Thank you for your persistence
Ray
Wow, thanks!
Daze, thank you for putting this together. I watched all your treadmill motor videos and I appreciate you putting this together. I have all the components already including the choke but I wish there was a video that compiled everything to make what you think it’s the ultimate Treadmill controller made out of purchased parts.
I kind of already have that. Several of my videos compare power supplies and then I make it clear that for the shop I prefer the SCR. Then I have a video on SCR assembly.
Thanks for the "rehash". I've watched all of your treadmill videos but it's a real time saver having all of your info in one single video. Thanks again. Randall in Kentucky.
Glad you like them!
Great video. I converted my wood lathe completely on your videos and advise you gave through direct conversations. You are by far the best source for converting treadmill motors. I really appreciate your work putting this one together.
glad I could help!!!
Im glad you took the time to go over everything again. Im fairly good at electrical stuff but the electronics im not as clear at so this helps a lot.
Glad it was helpful
Great summary Daze. I know you have covered all this before, but a single video for a summary is always good.
Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Paul
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for the informational video. Yes, I was wondering where to get some of these parts and No, I didn't ask! LOL! Now I know where I can get the parts I didn't ask about. Thank you again.
Don't hesitate to reach out if any questions arise.
thanks for making all these videos, they are very helpful :)
Glad you like them!
Wow wow wow! Thank you so much for this! You are appreciated!
My pleasure, glad it was helpful!
Awesome content. Great description!
Glad you liked it!
Great channel, well explained. Thank You for your time and expertise.
Thanks for watching!
Great content!! Just finished a conversion for a vintage wood lathe.
Glad you liked it!!
Thanks you are exceptional at explaining everything.
You are welcome!
Can't seem to upload any pics but just finished my upright bandsaw for metal and it works! Thank you so much for all your info on this! Greatly appreciated and I would not have this awsome tool without the info you posted and helped inspire me to do. Thank you
Glad I could help!
@@dazecars So, finally got to try my saw out and it worked for about a minute then stunk and threw a breaker. The voltage break was really hot and stunk. I went back through the wiring and rechecked the grounds and could find nothing. The motor was out of a functioning tread mill as well. The speed control and rectifier and potentiometer are exactly the same on the parts list. Went with the 2 potentiometers for the fine tuning. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Feeling a bit defeated. When I say try I mean I got a blade on it and tried it. I had turned it on prior but didn't let it run long.
@@dazecars went back through wiring again and found on the voltage controller I went hot-common-hot-common instead of hot-common-common -hot. Stupid mistake considering I watched, rewatched your video on setting it up and took notes. Have I possibly fried the voltage controller, rectifier, or motor?
being that is AC it really shouldn't matter coming out. Can you email me pictures of your setup so I can see if I can spot an issue?
Another great vid.
Nice work. 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Nicely done. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Schematic wire diagrams on HOW to wire up a tread mill motor with a controller would be very helpful.
I have about 50 videos on this topic giving tons of different options and most have schematics. Here is the play list ruclips.net/p/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM
Thanks!
very much appreciated!!
I have watched almost all your treadmill power supply videos over the last week or so. I’ve just bought an old atlas lathe and electronics is a bit challenging for me as I’m still comfortable with points and condenser’s and cars. I just picked up a treadmill yesterday with a three horse motor and what appears to be a PWM, power supply. But I can’t tell and from your videos, I’m having trouble figuring it out. It does not have a separate choke and the only thing on it is Pacemaster Digital PS. I’d really appreciate it. If you could direct me to some resources where I might be able to figure this out. Your channel is phenomenal.
Email me with pix of the board.
Just got back a half hour ago after scoring 2 working treadmills for free ! I've got 3 now first one had a brand new motor !
That is awesome! I have scrapped 18 at this point. I never pay for them and I never know what I am going to get but they all have at least some good parts.
That was the way I viewed it as well !
👍
I have a 122k pot and a 20k ten turn wire wound pot that I’m thinking of using. The fine control would be awesome. Yea, it’s 10 turns, but the resolution would be very fine.
seams like overkill
Thank you so much for the information. I salvaged the power supply board (PB-121) and motor control board (MC-60), along with the choke from my treadmill. I also have the circuit board from the top of the treadmill that controls everything, but I don't want to use it, although I have everything set up and the motor works like it should. To not use the "user" circuit board, can I use a PWM signal generator hooked up to the power supply board to control the motor? Where the "user" circuit board plugs into the power supply board I have 8 pins (GND, INS, IND, INU, PWM, TCH, +9V, GND); to connect the PWM signal generator, it has the following connections (V+, V-, GND, PWM), which connections are connected to which pins on the power supply board?
No a PWM in not used in this application. You need a potentiometer connected to the H W and L terminals. ruclips.net/video/RikeVYxITUQ/видео.htmlsi=rxm5y4vMRza3b5nd
I like and subscribe to your channel because it's interesting and informative, thank you. One question, what size wire do you use when making an AC choke (bought the core off the link). Thank you for any answer.
16 AWG minimum. Thanks for subscribing
Thanks so much again, I want to use the Variable Transformer set up for my wood lathe. Can you point me to a video showing the specific set up using all the components including revers switch and estop button?
Variac as a Treadmill Motor Power Supply Is this Another Budget Option to Power a Treadmill Motor?
ruclips.net/video/oSZYEUm1SuY/видео.html
Treadmill Motor Forward and Reverse Direction Switch Wiring and Feasibility
ruclips.net/video/B1pj3N1J2vg/видео.html
Configuring an Emergency Stop Switch for your DIY project
ruclips.net/video/HLFfFQS_Rsg/видео.html
Hi Daze, excellent video on power supplys. Do you have any sources for motor pulleys? I'd like to remove the flywheel pulley and gear down the speed. Oh, I probably need a belt, too, if it's those wide, flat belts
depends on the motor. Some are thread on some are keyed and some the flywheel is also the fan. If the flywheel is also the fan you need to retain it or add a fan. When I removed the fly wheels on mine the keyed ones got V-belt pulleys of the correct I.D but on the my mill build I retained the flywheel and turned the flywheel down so I could press a v-belt pulley on to it.
Greetings King,
I have two questions. 1) I used your info to build a power supply for an old wood lathe and it works great except that at lower speeds it has very little torque. I remember from one of your videos that some of the control boards will maintain a constant speed, is there a device I can connect to my PWM to maintain a constant speed?
2) If I add a smaller potentiometer will it also allow the motor to turn slower as well as giving me fine control?
Thanks for all you're doing, you're a godsend for the DIYer.
sounds to me like gearing would benefit your situation as you are wanting both slower speed and more torque and gearing will accomplish both of those things. You want to gear it in such a way that max RPM on the motor will achieve the original max RPM on the motor that came on the lathe. Also what is the torque of the motor you are using. Some are not as good as others. The second smaller potentiometer will only add fine speed control, nothing else.
These videos have been super helpful. Thank you so much. I have learned though unfortunately my treadmill motor is a little bit of a downgrade compared to my (salvaged washing machine) induction motor that I currently have on my lathe. I would say a sidestep. because the speed variability is an upgrade but it would have sightly less torque. But I digress, I wanted to see what your thoughts are on brushed Mitre saw motors. I have 2 kicking around, One is 3*5252/4900=3.21. not too bad. I am going to experiment with my scr controller set up to see how those operate on DC vs Ac since ( i think) they are "universal". What are your thoughts on that? Have you ever experimented with mitre saw motors?
Please let me know how it goes as I have not done anything with miter saw motors
So i did a little bit of experimenting and more research and I am attempting to build a slow grinder for sharpening tools, I have an AC speed controller that does a pretty decent job with the universal motor, but im finding that it definitely lacks torque at the lower speed. That is the biggest downfall im finding with these mitre saw motors. I think it will work for this application since I will not be applying much load at all to the wheel as im doing fine sharpening. I will be doing more experimenting as I want to try the DC speed controller set up on it to see if there are any different results.@@dazecars
@@jordanarmstrong4839 first of all I don’t recommend an ac speed controller on a AC motor. There are a couple reasons for this, first they are very hard on the motor. Second the torque of an ac motor changes as RPM changes. On a DC motor torque is constant. If torque is your issue can you try gearing the motor to help reduce speed while also increasing torque?
Hi, I recently put together a small hobby lathe for my dad with a treadmill motor and I used a dc speed controller with a dc power supply. Do you see any problems with a system like this? I did not use a choke or any other components just what came in the dc speed controller. Any input you have on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
Hard to say with out more information on the DC speed control and the DC power supply.
question about SCR voltage controller AC 110V 230V 10000W , i only found the 4000 W version locally , and my AC is 220 v so my question is will the SCR out put 220 V as well ? if so how to control that to make it only 120 or 180 as maximum
Thats not big enough especially at 220. some SCR controllers work on both 110 and 220 you will need to look at the specs. You can limit the max voltage output by putting a resister in series with the potentiometer
I've got an M60 board. I've got all of my parts, but I need a video to show me how to hook up everything potentiometer , led tack, power switch , and fuse, already mounted in the box need hook-up instructions
I have several videos on the MC60. A video on the tach and a video on direction switch all in my treadmill playlist ruclips.net/p/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM
I remember watching your series where you took your combination machine and made a seperate mill and lathe out of them.
Are you happy you did that? Were you able to notice performance increase in the mill?
I have a Smithy Granite 1340 combination machine. Its an older version bought second hand. The lathe spindle has a tiny amount of play (enough to cause chatter) that im working on taking out.
The mill portion runs great, but im noticing it wants to bog down during fly cuts. This could be me setting up the cutter wrong, or just losing too much power with all the gearing and belts that allow it to be ran from lathe motor. Did you have a "weak" mill problem as a combo? I dont necessarily have the time and material to make a mill table and frame to connect the mill head to, but i was considering removing all the linkage and using my treadmill motor and mounting it up top like a bridgeport to run the mill separately. I think this would give me the milling ability i need and use the x and y axis already built on it.
My question there would be, did you notice a rigidity issue while it was a combination? Were you able to gain rigidity by giving the mill head its own frame?
Sorry for the long comment, just wanted to pick your brain if you'll allow it
I did gain some rigidity by making the mill stand alone as it eliminated the swivel aspect. Bigger improvement with my dedicated machine with height adjustment. By having height adjustment I never extend the quill more than 1/2" which was the single biggest improvement in rigidity. I have used the mill more after making it stand alone than all the years I had it before making the adjustment due to eliminated setup time.
As to your issue I would hang a larger treadmill motor off the back of the mill head and power the mill that way. I have tons of torque and variable speed doing the exact same thing with my stand alone unit. I found with mine that some of the slop in my spindle was due to the clutch mechanism for going from mill to lathe and back again. By removing the mill head I was able to lock out the clutch and eliminate spindle backlash. The same could be done with your machine if you used a dedicated motor for the mill head. Short answer I love the improvements and flexibility I gained making my mill stand alone. With that said the table is way too small so I will likely be getting myself a big boy mill this next year and converting my current mill stand into a surface grinder.
@@dazecars nice! Hopefully there will be a video series about making it into a surface grinder.
Thank you for the info. Removing backlash through removing the clutch would be an added perk i didnt think of. All together i think i would benefit greatly from giving the mill its own power source. Then i could modify the lathe spindle too since i wouldn't have to worry about having the ability to transfer rotation to the mill. Give them both an upgrade but still be able to use the same ways and table. Upgrades that won't require me to buy anything extra sounds super nice lol although i do want to get proper tapered roller bearings for the lathe spindle.
Someday ill have the funds to also get a proper mill and lathe in the shop, but until then we make due with what we got.
Thank you again as always for response and info
Oh yes modifying my current mill into a surface grinder will be videoed. Adding a dedicated motor for the mill in not hard just hang it off the back @@kylewellman402
Thanks for the summary. I had started collecting parts for this project a while back from a prior video. I do have a question, I purchased an SCR at the time based on your older video on eBay,. The seller is no longer around to ask, today recently I saw that there are 4 terminals, and the label is only in Chinese, I translated the characters via Google and it said, "AC input AC output ratio". It is English but not clear to me which terminal is for which purpose, Is there an easy way to tell? Thank You
there is a schematic at 8:17 on this video that shows how to wire it ruclips.net/video/SjEgKH_MGFE/видео.html Let me know if you have any other questions.
How do i know whay size inductor and what size choke i need. And circuit breaker for that matter. I guess the question is how do i figure out the amps my motor might need? And you rock btw. Big fan
The choke/inductor for the AC side is simple, it's just a doughnut core with the AC wires wrapped around it. The Choke for the DC side is just as easy although harder to find. The key is that its a "MOTOR choke". If its not labeled as a motor choke then it's too small. Most chokes are used as components on electronic boards and are way too small. If it is big enough for this application it will for sure be labeled as a motor choke. Glad you like my channel!
Hi, Do you think it's worth putting a cooling fan on your enclosure or is it un-necessary?
Even though not required electronics and heat do not play well together so anything that reduces that heat is a good idea.
Is it ok to only for a brief moment test my new 130v motor (PN F-237595) with my 60v10amp power supply? I know it wouldn't be a full power test
It won't hurt the motor but it might burn out the power supply if it is not fused.
Daze, I would like to know how you got hold of you your Lathe Els system for your lathe can you fix my problem by telling me were & how much did it cost, & where you got it from & can i ues a mobility motor Dc motor to do the driving ?
Here is my ELS parts list video. Please don't hesitate to reach out I can be of any further assistance. ruclips.net/video/tIHPrIi9Zys/видео.html
Hi Daze, do you have any sources for motor pulleys? Your power supply info is excellent. I have to find an old microwave oven. I want to swap the flywheel pulleys and gear down the speed. Oh belts too.
I get all that from eBay and Amazon
Will this power my 180v 2hp treadmill motor - "AC90V-260V Input DC180V Output 8A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Driver Controls" ? To my calc 2hp = 1500w and that PWM has 1440watts
Most of these motors are 15-25 amps and that 8 amps is not even close. Also thats an 8 amp max not 8 amps continuous. The continuous rating is typically 1/2- 3/4 of make so 4-6 amps in this case.
Question! Have a mc2100SDI. Was excited to find schematic enclosed, but it's for the 2100WA. The connector wiring does not match! Can't find the correct diagram. Any suggestions on figuring out wiring?
email me pix of your board through my website with specific attention to the connecter with a clear image of the writing on the board near the connector.
@@dazecars sent. Also included the included wiring diagram (which did not match this board version). Those diagram can be golden!
That wires up the same as all other MC2100 boards. Make sure you go with pin location not wire color from the harnis and also confirm your PWM is set to the correct hz
Have watched many of your videos. Been a fan since pre you-tube days. Have an IRS going in a 67 mustang. Which video is best for mc 60 wiring? Keep up the excellent videos.
I don't have a specific MC60 video because it is one of the simplier ones to setup. I do however cover it as one of several boards in this video ruclips.net/video/RikeVYxITUQ/видео.html
I have what appears to be a choke. How do I know for sure?@@dazecars
Kept watching you videos.. Found the answer. Mine has two wires.
glad you found it!! @@rogerlabbee6625
Daze. Your AC toroidal inductor looks perfect. What’s your secret? Whenever I make one it looks like it was put together by a child. I have to use epoxy to keep the wires consistently spaced.
By the way, I have mine hanging on some uprights so it doesn’t touch the box. But it will touch the SCR. Is that ok?
Paul
pre-coil the wire around something smaller like a chopstick to get it into the coil shape. It doesn't matter where the inductor is as far a physical location. These are not not high resolution electronics where interference is an issue
have you looked at the KB motor controllers with a HP module? Not cheap.
I have, they make a quality product with a good reputation but charge a little to much IMHO. The other concern I have is the max amps is a little low which can negatively effect max torque.
Ok, thanks again
my pleasure
My small forward/reverse switch gave up on me(like you predicted). I have got the big switch the same one you have on this video. Do you have a wiring of that switch somewhere? Thanks!
I have several switches on the video, exactly which one are you asking about?
The one showed on your table in this vide
The big red handle
@@milanp5697here you go Wiring a Rotary Direction Switch for a Treadmill Motor Conversion
ruclips.net/video/aFsfAYgyTgg/видео.html
Thanks, appreciate it!
A new video you could make is on how to program the PWM XY_KPWM 35800-TE . I am good with these kind of things but not this one. My treadmill motor is a 2.5 hp with a MC-2100 controller, everything was complete and running with the control panel. I purchased one , set it to 20 Hz and the motor was running at 50 %. So then I went to set a % range of 15 to 45 % . I could never get it to display the dn or up during the setting process. Never could set it and it never ran again. Turned it on, where it was showing the word OUT. Ordered another one same thing. I have the instructions , Hold down button ect. Will you make a more detailed video on this PWM ( or have you already made one ?) and the other one that has 6 buttons, and no knob. There must be many other people that have trouble getting to learn how to use these.
I already go over programing in several of my other videos.
I need a clever neighbour just like you,,,,,,,
Would you consider moving to Australia?
Please 🤩
Yes I would consider it... Probably not going to happen 😁 but I would consider it .
Would you say this is worth it even if my lathe already has variable speed and an ELS? “Harbor freight central machine 7x10 late. “
What would you do if you had this lathe? I’m ready to tinker.
It depends, I don't know what kind of speed range and torque you are currently getting from the motor you have so I have no way of knowing if a treadmill setup would be better or not. that is such I a small lathe a treadmill motor might be too much for it.
@@dazecars based on the calculation you suggested it’s about 1.5 ftlbs of torque 2400 RPM.
Mostly wondering if doing the dual speed nobs would be worth it
Most treadmill motors will have more torque than that. I love the two knob system. I can adjust it within a few RPM.
@@dazecars awesome think I’m going to go for it. What size was the lathe you used in your video? The red one that didn’t have an ELS?
the mill lathe combo in my videos does have ELS. The unit is a 16X18. It may look like two different lathes because in some videos there is no mill but in other videos the millhead is attached. Same lathe either way just different configurations.
Wiring diagram of all the components wired
As I said in this video it was just a parts list because other videos on my channel have the wiring diagrams. Let me know which type of power supply you want to put together and I will get you a link to the correct video.
The red rotary switch is butt ugly. Painting is essential. But it’s a tedious job. I swapped out the plastic silver plate behind with a thin stainless steel sheet, sanded down to 3000 grit. It looks beautiful.
Overkill city.
it is ugly
There are no wasted goods, only wasted opportunities.
very true
Hi sir, get a question here. What is the voltage output to motor when the tread mill is at rest. My is outputing about 100v. I suspect a mosfet failure. Thanks.
When there is no load on the SCR it will show full voltage 100-110 even when turned all the way down
@@dazecars Hi sir, thank you for your response. I am not pro, so I am assuming by "SCR", you mean the control board, like the one with the heat sink in this video. And "no load" means the motor is not connected to the board, right? Thank you.
Based on your statement I was assuming you were talking about a DIY power supply and at rest implies the motor is not turning (no load) . If you are working with a factory power supply, it all depends on how it is configured. There is no one size rules as all these power supplies are different. What exactly are you working with, is it working, is it not working and what exactly are the symptoms if it's not working.
@@dazecars Hi sir, sorry for not making it clear. I am working on a pro-form treadmill. It stoped working suddenly, I change the full bridge rectifier and the mosfet. Without connecting the motor, I measure the at-rest voltage output across the two pin giving power to the motor, I got a reading of 108 volt. I think the at-rest voltage should be close to 0 volt and I am suspecting the mosfet is not doing the job right. Will be great if you can shed some light on it. Thank you in advance.
On an MC2100 If the MOSFET went bad the AC switching transistor probably also needs to be replaced. Typically there are 4 components on this boards that go bad, the capacitor which will rupture or swell, the rectifier which will stop producing DC current, The MOSFET and the AC switching transistor. Every time I have had one blow up a MOSFET it also tore out the AC switching transistor which is the component on the heatsink wall directly adjacent to the rectifier. same is true in reverse a switching transistor failure will kill the MOSFET. I have never measured the output on an MC2100 without a motor hooked up to see if it produces full voltage when not under a load. Some power supplies need a load to see a voltage reduction. Does the LED flash? If you can get the LED to flash and change speed as you change the controller speed than the board is likely working BUT if it stays on, stays off, or flashes in a pattern of 4 or 5 then the board has other issues.
Thanks!!
My pleasure!!