You gotta crank flow down to like 80% or less when doing super small prints like this, doesn't hurt to have another model in there too just to help with cooling. Gets gloopy with all that heat on one small area.
Always remember it's a BUDGET printer. Which means they couldn't add some options and features due to build cost. You can always put those parts on yourself at your own pace. 1) Support the Gantry! It's a little weak and has a tendency to wobble. That includes repositioning the spool holder from the top of the machine to it's side. There is a bunch of printable frame stabilizers on all the model repositories. The 3d Community figured it out early and has been pumping out printable fixes for it left and right. 2) Upgrade your hotend to either K1 MAX ($25 USD) hotend or Flowtech System ($65 USD) if you want to get better flow rates resulting in an increase in optimal speed. 3) Upgrade the cooling fan to single or dual 5015 blower for better print finish on PLA and PETG. 4) Upgrade the build sheet to a PEI one for better first layer adhesion. 5) Go Slow. You don't have to do everything at once. Pick which ones you have issues with the most and change that first. Once that's solved, then you can go to the next upgrade.
@Productreviewing538 First thing is increase your Z HOP up by about .2mm. That should eliminate the dragging on the infill. If that doesn't solve it, then you will probably have to support the gantry. Check the gantry with a L square and make sure there is little to no lean at all. Tiny tiny bit of a gap is not the end of the world but if you can see light through the whole gap you need to support the gantry.
You gotta crank flow down to like 80% or less when doing super small prints like this, doesn't hurt to have another model in there too just to help with cooling. Gets gloopy with all that heat on one small area.
Thanks for the advice. I normally Don't print with a .2mm but the A1 Mini seemed like the best bet to do it on.
Did they ever release a filament sensor for the SE?
You can use ANY filament sensor. But here is the link for the OFFICIAL SE filament runout sensor. It's plug and play.
a.co/d/1GwwYCl
Would you give me a tip for my v3 se
Always remember it's a BUDGET printer. Which means they couldn't add some options and features due to build cost. You can always put those parts on yourself at your own pace.
1) Support the Gantry! It's a little weak and has a tendency to wobble. That includes repositioning the spool holder from the top of the machine to it's side. There is a bunch of printable frame stabilizers on all the model repositories. The 3d Community figured it out early and has been pumping out printable fixes for it left and right.
2) Upgrade your hotend to either K1 MAX ($25 USD) hotend or Flowtech System ($65 USD) if you want to get better flow rates resulting in an increase in optimal speed.
3) Upgrade the cooling fan to single or dual 5015 blower for better print finish on PLA and PETG.
4) Upgrade the build sheet to a PEI one for better first layer adhesion.
5) Go Slow. You don't have to do everything at once. Pick which ones you have issues with the most and change that first. Once that's solved, then you can go to the next upgrade.
No like I'm having an issue and I need advice
@@3dprintingnerd12 what's the issue?
@@3DandTeePrinting my nozzle will scrape the print but the print usually on the back will have rough spots
@Productreviewing538 First thing is increase your Z HOP up by about .2mm. That should eliminate the dragging on the infill. If that doesn't solve it, then you will probably have to support the gantry. Check the gantry with a L square and make sure there is little to no lean at all. Tiny tiny bit of a gap is not the end of the world but if you can see light through the whole gap you need to support the gantry.