Just got a scroll saw, for valentine's day. ❤. I can't wait for warmer weather so I can be in the garage with it. Thank you for these tips before I begin.
Been scrolling for many years and my top tip is use packing tape on the wood and glue the pattern to that. The Teflon in the tape lubricates your blade as you cut making it much easier and less chance to get burning. For hard woods and thicker woods use packing tape on top and bottom I cut mostly 1" hardwoods. Also periodical wax/polish your table with a good car polish to keep things sliding smoothly. And a lighted magnifying glass really helps your accuracy.
This is awesome tips. Thank you so much. I have been scroll sawing for a while now, and did not know any of these - especially the blue tape one. I have spent hours in the kitchen with go-gone, taking all the sticky stuff off!!!
Thank you for this tip. I woulda never thought of this. I will try this soon. I have many rolls of contact paper. Some prints I won't use for anything. Now I have a use for them. Many many thanks.
Thanks for this wonderful video, although I have been using scroll saw for many years there is always something to learn. I keep this video and never loose it.
I use an old Richards Electromatic to modify flatbed dies and make stripping boards for die cutting paper cartons. If you're using mdf, it's really easy to remove the paper pattern in one piece with acetone. Then rub the piece down with the saw dust. The fine saw dust sticks to the adhesive and makes it easier to sand completely off if you have a piece large enough to sand after scrolling. And 3M Super 77 is the best spray adhesive I've found so far. Also I use a crap-ton of that Starbond.
Great video - thanks! I print my patterns on full-page sticky labels to avoid the mess of adhesives. Then I stick them onto wood covered with blue tape,as you suggest. But I have my wood jumping all around and chattering when I turn it. Rats.
This is fantastic, last night I used my scroll saw for the first time, im the second owner to have it, and it was pretty scary. Wish I had your video sooner😂😂
My saw was $500 brand new.. I think you can get it for around $400 now. When doing research on your saw.. make sure you're looking for a 20" bed. A lot of the cheaper saw lack in cut depth.
You can often find cheap machines locally through re-sell. My first one was of of Facebook for $60. I think Harbor Freight also has a cheap one but I’m not sure about the quality.
Unfortunately, buying a cheap scroll saw will probably turn you off to this enjoyable hobby. Cheap saws are a pain in the butt to use. Few have speed adjustments, most require pinned blades witch reduces the number of blade options. Also, the amount of hold down force on your project piece while cutting will quickly fatigue your fingers. Do your self a favor and get a good one. You can expect to pay $250, anything less a your buying a toy.
What is the brand of spray glue you recommend to stack the wood? I'm going to give this a try. I've been using double backed tape and sometimes it pulls the wood up.
Great tips. Also if you putt packing tape on top of the paper pattern it will not pull up and move on you. It keeps it the pattern on the blue tape. Also lubricates the blade.
Tip #1 ditch the pinned blades and get pinless. much easier to maneuver than pinned and necessary if you plan to do fretwork. thanks for the informative video!
I use packing tape on top of the pattern and then blue tape the pattern to the top. I don’t like breathing any aerosols especially since I am doing dozens of cuts and that stuff is way more expensive. The packing tape in essence lubricates the blade. Also, I can reuse the patterns multiple times. Get good at spiral blades because they rock on curvy intricate patterns
I was doing as you suggest, but on delicate fretwork the pattern could still shift. One nice alternative to aerosols (and much cheaper) is glue sticks to stick the paper to the blue tape. I'm with you: leave the expensive aerosol for someone with more money than brains. :)
I have an old Craftsman scroll saw and I'm not sure if it's working or not. It cuts REALLY slow and I have to push the piece with so much pressure. I put a new blade in it and it's still not cutting near as fast as what you are showing here. What could be wrong? I'm relatively new to it, so I have really no idea how to set it up. I'm cutting 1/2" pine. Just the regular old dimensional lumber sold at my Home Depot. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I started with an old saw as well and they tend to get gunked up with sawdust since the saw creates such fine particles. I deep cleaned it several times but nothings beats a brand new machine and motor.
Make sure that the blade is installed with the teeth pointing down. Also, do you know how many teeth per inch are on the blades you tried? Try a blade with fewer teeth per inch. Keep in mind that the blade should do the work and you should not have to push the wood too hard. Also, check to see if your blade is square (at a right angle) to the table. If you want to try a new saw, I have had very good luck with a scroll saw I bought from Harbor Freight (about $100 on sale). Hope this helps.
Far better than using strips of blue painter's tape is to get a roll of clear contact paper which can be attached in one piece, negating the possibility of the gaps or overlays that you invariably get with painter's tape. Contact paper also has the advantage of being see-through so you can see the workpiece throughout the operation.
Instead of using spray glue on my projects before applying pattern, I use a Staples clear sheet backed by a yellowish peel-off backing. This prevents the pattern from moving an those muisence small pieces that want to fold up when scolling
I notice in quite a few videos people are using the pressure foot to help keep wood steady. The foot thing like on a. Sewing machine . Does it get in the way? I just got a Ryobi scroll saw yet to unbox. I’d feel too nervous of my fingers to move away that foot thing. Why are your take ?
Definitely respect the blade. It can cut you. I leave the foot on just as a reminder. The one time I got cut the blade just plowed through a weak section of redwood and got me, though it wasn’t bad, still don’t ever be lulled into complacency around ant blade.
What's up with that helmet? And what's a good beginner scroll saw brand? I learned not long ago blue tape can also be very helpful for preventing splintering on thin material when cutting
I've got a video on the helmet (ruclips.net/video/xet8wzu4RIk/видео.html) And the saw I'm using here ruclips.net/video/FZWU7Edu0N0/видео.html) You can't go wrong with the Delta but if you're rich you can look into a Pegas. I'm looking to sell this one if you're interested 😈😈
What blade were you using? Was it a pinned end style blade? It looked very wide making it easier to make straight cuts. Thanks for the video; I enjoyed it.
No to oil on the blade, in particular what I saw getting on the cutting table, all that oil will get on the wood and stain it. SInce I use clear shelf liner to adhere my pattern, that lubricates the blade more than enough. It also comes off easy when done. If you must lubricate your blade a bar of soap works. I clean then use a ceramic car spray for my table, this way my wood slides easily. Also get rid of those pinned blades, go pinless #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse are easy to control, and you do not have to sand after cutting.
Blades matter, there lots of different ones. Smaller, larger, skip tooth, reverse, ultra reverse. Try different brands and different types and find what works for you and your style of cutting.
WD40 may be a good medium to help the blade cut quickly, but I am afraid that it will stain and might soil the wood. I rub my blade with a normal candle; the wax makes it easy to cut through.
I've burned thru a few blades in my time. First saw was a 16" Crapsman single speed. It taught me to hold my work and how crappy pin style blades are. Next was a 21" Sakura (now PS Wood) that had five speeds and was belt driven. Used that saw for twenty years before retiring it after I wore out the bronze bushings that held the arms in place. Now have a 20" RBI Hawk. Have extensive (+100 hrs) time on Hegner's and the oval armed Delta. Here's what I can tell you... 1: Junk your pin-blade saw. Pin blades are much wider, generally much poorer in quality and cannot hold proper tension. 2: Buy multiple blade clamps. The lower clamp is the time eater. Having multiples means you can simply swap in a new blade for the one you are using that is old, tired, dull and maybe even bent. 3: While I have never tried to ascertain which musical pitch I tune my blades to, I tend to tension scroll saw blades tighter than my contemporaries. Personal preference which (I feel) allows tighter turns. 4: Use the smallest sized blade recommended for the type and thickness of material you're cutting. I generally use #5's with the reverse teeth under the cut. I buy them by the gross!
I know I'm replying to a 3 month old comment but I want to add that wd40 is like a jack of all trades, master of none product. While it *could* lube somthing, there are way better options to use. It also can be used as a solvent, but it's not as good as actual penetrative oil.
No, the worst that could happen is mesothelioma, pulmunary edema, COPD, emphysema, and worst of the worst: untimely death. Driving fast with no seatbelt isn't cool; it's stupid. Same for scoffing at safety gear. Your words may be just fun and games to you, but what if they influence others to behave the same, and they get hurt? Would you even care? Don't be a fool when it comes to safety, kids. Having all the body parts you were born with, having your health, is something you should never take for granted.
@@coryingman LOL BHAHAHAHAHA its a scroll saw, i can put my finger on the blade and barely get a scratch, i hope it does influence others the modern age of bubbled wrapped wimps is annoying me lol. also hes not wearing a respirator just a face shield so that does not even count lol. Its a tiny lil scroll saw that i operated when i was like 8 years old and is about the most harmless tool their is XD Grow a pair sally my golly men aint men anymore, next you're gonna say im insane because i make flash powder!!!! XDD
Just got a scroll saw, for valentine's day. ❤. I can't wait for warmer weather so I can be in the garage with it. Thank you for these tips before I begin.
Been scrolling for many years and my top tip is use packing tape on the wood and glue the pattern to that. The Teflon in the tape lubricates your blade as you cut making it much easier and less chance to get burning. For hard woods and thicker woods use packing tape on top and bottom I cut mostly 1" hardwoods. Also periodical wax/polish your table with a good car polish to keep things sliding smoothly. And a lighted magnifying glass really helps your accuracy.
How about a video on different blade types and their uses. I've only used pinned blades so far
These tips are keepers. I own a very old scroll saw but haven’t used it for years. All of your tips were new to me and I will save them. Many thanks!
Good to hear!
This is awesome tips. Thank you so much. I have been scroll sawing for a while now, and did not know any of these - especially the blue tape one. I have spent hours in the kitchen with go-gone, taking all the sticky stuff off!!!
Thank you for your video! Very very helpful since I haven’t use my scrub saw in quite a few years! Again, thank you
awesome tips ...I will do the blue tape first next time...great idea....
Its a game changer!
Wow! That is a huge blade!
Contact paper (shelf liner/peel and stick) works as well as blue tape and is a lot cheaper and lasts longer.
Appreciate the tip 🙌🏼
Thank you for this tip. I woulda never thought of this. I will try this soon. I have many rolls of contact paper. Some prints I won't use for anything. Now I have a use for them. Many many thanks.
Thanks for this wonderful video, although I have been using scroll saw for many years there is always something to learn. I keep this video and never loose it.
Glad it was helpful!
@TheReformationWoodshop thanks for the tips...what about blades? What are the best/worst?
I use an old Richards Electromatic to modify flatbed dies and make stripping boards for die cutting paper cartons. If you're using mdf, it's really easy to remove the paper pattern in one piece with acetone. Then rub the piece down with the saw dust. The fine saw dust sticks to the adhesive and makes it easier to sand completely off if you have a piece large enough to sand after scrolling. And 3M Super 77 is the best spray adhesive I've found so far. Also I use a crap-ton of that Starbond.
Great tip, and Starbond is the way!
Great video - thanks! I print my patterns on full-page sticky labels to avoid the mess of adhesives. Then I stick them onto wood covered with blue tape,as you suggest. But I have my wood jumping all around and chattering when I turn it. Rats.
Found a scroll saw at a thrift store. I didn't know what it was or what one does with it. But now I'm glad I have it. This is going to be fun!
Very cool! Good luck!
How do you choose a blade? What’s the rule of thumb?
Very useful tips. Nice work 👍
Appreciate it! I had some help with those last camera shots that's why this video is so great!
This is fantastic, last night I used my scroll saw for the first time, im the second owner to have it, and it was pretty scary. Wish I had your video sooner😂😂
At least you have the information now!
Great video! Best affordable scroll saw for a beginner. Value your opinion.
My saw was $500 brand new.. I think you can get it for around $400 now. When doing research on your saw.. make sure you're looking for a 20" bed. A lot of the cheaper saw lack in cut depth.
Bravo, very well done.
Many thanks!
Great tips!!
Appreciate it!
Thanks, very helpful, I learnt a lot from your video.
Glad it was helpful!
Recommendations for a budget friendly saw for a beginner,? Been playing around with woodworking for a couple years, But never used a scroll saw.
You can often find cheap machines locally through re-sell. My first one was of of Facebook for $60. I think Harbor Freight also has a cheap one but I’m not sure about the quality.
Unfortunately, buying a cheap scroll saw will probably turn you off to this enjoyable hobby. Cheap saws are a pain in the butt to use. Few have speed adjustments, most require pinned blades witch reduces the number of blade options. Also, the amount of hold down force on your project piece while cutting will quickly fatigue your fingers. Do your self a favor and get a good one. You can expect to pay $250, anything less a your buying a toy.
I’m assuming the accelerants overspray doesn’t leave a residue or discoloration on the wood ?
Correct, it dries quickly and leaves no trace. It’s mostly acetone
@@TheReformationWoodshop thanks
the most important tip is the blade size for the project.
Very good tip. I may have to include it in the next one!
What blades do you recommend? Beginner here, and the blade recommended on another video is tiny in comparison to yours. TI
What is the brand of spray glue you recommend to stack the wood? I'm going to give this a try. I've been using double backed tape and sometimes it pulls the wood up.
Great tips. Also if you putt packing tape on top of the paper pattern it will not pull up and move on you. It keeps it the pattern on the blue tape. Also lubricates the blade.
Thanks for the info!
Tip #1 ditch the pinned blades and get pinless. much easier to maneuver than pinned and necessary if you plan to do fretwork. thanks for the informative video!
Where and what type of mask are you using at the 6 second mark?
What brand and model face mask are you using
Peke Safety power cap active
What adhesive do you use to glue the paper to the tape
I use packing tape on top of the pattern and then blue tape the pattern to the top. I don’t like breathing any aerosols especially since I am doing dozens of cuts and that stuff is way more expensive. The packing tape in essence lubricates the blade. Also, I can reuse the patterns multiple times. Get good at spiral blades because they rock on curvy intricate patterns
I was doing as you suggest, but on delicate fretwork the pattern could still shift. One nice alternative to aerosols (and much cheaper) is glue sticks to stick the paper to the blue tape. I'm with you: leave the expensive aerosol for someone with more money than brains. :)
I have an old Craftsman scroll saw and I'm not sure if it's working or not. It cuts REALLY slow and I have to push the piece with so much pressure. I put a new blade in it and it's still not cutting near as fast as what you are showing here. What could be wrong? I'm relatively new to it, so I have really no idea how to set it up. I'm cutting 1/2" pine. Just the regular old dimensional lumber sold at my Home Depot. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I started with an old saw as well and they tend to get gunked up with sawdust since the saw creates such fine particles. I deep cleaned it several times but nothings beats a brand new machine and motor.
Make sure that the blade is installed with the teeth pointing down. Also, do you know how many teeth per inch are on the blades you tried? Try a blade with fewer teeth per inch. Keep in mind that the blade should do the work and you should not have to push the wood too hard. Also, check to see if your blade is square (at a right angle) to the table. If you want to try a new saw, I have had very good luck with a scroll saw I bought from Harbor Freight (about $100 on sale). Hope this helps.
Far better than using strips of blue painter's tape is to get a roll of clear contact paper which can be attached in one piece, negating the possibility of the gaps or overlays that you invariably get with painter's tape. Contact paper also has the advantage of being see-through so you can see the workpiece throughout the operation.
This! I don't know why people are still using blue tape lol
Instead of using spray glue on my projects before applying pattern, I use a Staples clear sheet backed by a yellowish peel-off backing. This prevents the pattern from moving an those muisence small pieces that want to fold up when scolling
The glue accelerator
you mentioned, can you tell me what that is?
Starbond CA Glue
I notice in quite a few videos people are using the pressure foot to help keep wood steady. The foot thing like on a. Sewing machine . Does it get in the way? I just got a Ryobi scroll saw yet to unbox. I’d feel too nervous of my fingers to move away that foot thing. Why are your take ?
Definitely respect the blade. It can cut you. I leave the foot on just as a reminder. The one time I got cut the blade just plowed through a weak section of redwood and got me, though it wasn’t bad, still don’t ever be lulled into complacency around ant blade.
Thanks for tips
Of course! Thanks for watching.
Thank you.
Can a scroll saw machine cut leather?
That is a very good question. I don’t see why it wouldn’t although I feel like the blade would go full fairly quick. I’ll have to test it out.
Good tips
What's up with that helmet? And what's a good beginner scroll saw brand?
I learned not long ago blue tape can also be very helpful for preventing splintering on thin material when cutting
I've got a video on the helmet (ruclips.net/video/xet8wzu4RIk/видео.html) And the saw I'm using here ruclips.net/video/FZWU7Edu0N0/видео.html)
You can't go wrong with the Delta but if you're rich you can look into a Pegas. I'm looking to sell this one if you're interested 😈😈
an alternative to the blue tape, is using clear contact paper. The removable kind, very cheap and walmart, operall cheaper than blue tape.
What blade were you using? Was it a pinned end style blade? It looked very wide making it easier to make straight cuts. Thanks for the video; I enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching! Yeah it is a pinned blade and perfect for those straight lines. 👍🏻
Another tip….when stacking, use clear packing tape to connect your pieces. Besides the Obvious…it’s clear, it also lubricants the blade.
Hmmm I didn’t know that.
No to oil on the blade, in particular what I saw getting on the cutting table, all that oil will get on the wood and stain it. SInce I use clear shelf liner to adhere my pattern, that lubricates the blade more than enough. It also comes off easy when done. If you must lubricate your blade a bar of soap works. I clean then use a ceramic car spray for my table, this way my wood slides easily. Also get rid of those pinned blades, go pinless #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse are easy to control, and you do not have to sand after cutting.
Thanks.
Blades matter, there lots of different ones. Smaller, larger, skip tooth, reverse, ultra reverse. Try different brands and different types and find what works for you and your style of cutting.
I didn’t learn anything from this video - and that’s a good thing! I’m already doing these tips as my foundation in scrolling! Tfs
WD40 may be a good medium to help the blade cut quickly, but I am afraid that it will stain and might soil the wood. I rub my blade with a normal candle; the wax makes it easy to cut through.
Work a project, "Inside-Out" 👍
Absolutely! One of the best tips.
I've burned thru a few blades in my time. First saw was a 16" Crapsman single speed. It taught me to hold my work and how crappy pin style blades are. Next was a 21" Sakura (now PS Wood) that had five speeds and was belt driven. Used that saw for twenty years before retiring it after I wore out the bronze bushings that held the arms in place. Now have a 20" RBI Hawk. Have extensive (+100 hrs) time on Hegner's and the oval armed Delta. Here's what I can tell you...
1: Junk your pin-blade saw. Pin blades are much wider, generally much poorer in quality and cannot hold proper tension.
2: Buy multiple blade clamps. The lower clamp is the time eater. Having multiples means you can simply swap in a new blade for the one you are using that is old, tired, dull and maybe even bent.
3: While I have never tried to ascertain which musical pitch I tune my blades to, I tend to tension scroll saw blades tighter than my contemporaries. Personal preference which (I feel) allows tighter turns.
4: Use the smallest sized blade recommended for the type and thickness of material you're cutting. I generally use #5's with the reverse teeth under the cut. I buy them by the gross!
wd40IS not A LUBRICANT, iT IS A SOLVENT AND WATER DISPLACEMENT SOLUTION.
I know I'm replying to a 3 month old comment but I want to add that wd40 is like a jack of all trades, master of none product. While it *could* lube somthing, there are way better options to use. It also can be used as a solvent, but it's not as good as actual penetrative oil.
Plus sing as which, it’s slippery
Hi 😃 , just one tip for scroll saw channels;
LEAVE THE SUBTITLE SETTINGS ALONE!, your fiddling with them has made them very difficult to read! FFS!.
You should keep to doing harbor freight to reviews.
I’ll do as I please 🤣🤣
who wears alll that gear.....for a scroll saw, worst could happen is a blade break and get ya in the eye (which has happened to me lol).
No, the worst that could happen is mesothelioma, pulmunary edema, COPD, emphysema, and worst of the worst: untimely death. Driving fast with no seatbelt isn't cool; it's stupid. Same for scoffing at safety gear. Your words may be just fun and games to you, but what if they influence others to behave the same, and they get hurt? Would you even care? Don't be a fool when it comes to safety, kids. Having all the body parts you were born with, having your health, is something you should never take for granted.
@@coryingman LOL BHAHAHAHAHA its a scroll saw, i can put my finger on the blade and barely get a scratch, i hope it does influence others the modern age of bubbled wrapped wimps is annoying me lol.
also hes not wearing a respirator just a face shield so that does not even count lol. Its a tiny lil scroll saw that i operated when i was like 8 years old and is about the most harmless tool their is XD Grow a pair sally my golly men aint men anymore, next you're gonna say im insane because i make flash powder!!!! XDD
@@coryingman my GOD, so this is a "modern man" eh? what a coward
The man….really?
whats with that massive mask...😅😂🤣 I never wear anything (eye).. never had any issues.(No safety)
Lol, I get the sniffles for a week if I don't wear anything.
@@TheReformationWoodshop true!! actually I always held my breath while cutting. Even sanding or sanding dry wall.😷