Great idea with the contact paper, I recently purchased some inexpensive vinyl adhesive printer paper. Basically skipped the step of having to glue the pattern to the contact paper. My first reservation was how strong the adhesive would hold to the wood. I actually tried it first on MDF for some small letters I was cutting for a sign. To my surprise it did not lift even in tight fret work spaces. It was super easy to remove the pattern and left no residue. It's super frustrating when I get deep into a project and the pattern starts to lift off my material. Just as frustrating when the patterns twist and tear when you drill access holes for fret work, I do a lot of detailed fret work pieces that require lots of holes. I can lose parts of the pattern if the pattern material lifts durning the drilling process. I often take the time to chamfer the holes in the pattern to prevent the material from rolling up. This is only an issue with very tight detailed patterns. Thanks for your ideas for scrolling, enjoyed the video.
Thanks. Great tip. I'll try the clear contact paper but I'll still always cover my template with packing tape. It keeps the template paper (inevitably white inkjet paper) from fuzzing at the edges where it's cut by the blade or the spindle sander I use to clean up edges. richard --
Thank you for the tips & tricks, especially the cleaning ones. Most times I get lazy on looking up the best cleaning methods, and they don't normally get included in kids, so thank you!
Once again thought I knew everything about the subject but watched anyway cause I like the presenter. Cardboard box and long handled forceps (I already have them) bingo, another good reason to not scroll past a “Newton Makes”. You make my shop life better in so many little ways.
I found that Elmer’s glue sticks work great on the back of template onto the clear shelf liner . I buy the shelf liner and Elmer’s glue sticks at Walmart . Get a bunch of the glue just before school starts at a really great price and store in a climate controlled area.
Update my shop is not heated , went to use the glue sticks and the glue was thicker and didn’t hold as well as when the temperature was warmer . I have used the Elmer’s glue sticks on many different kinds of wood .
I have a xerox printer connected to my computer, and I just print out what I want flip it over and iron it over the wood pull off the paper and the image I want is transferred to the wood, then all I have to do is cut it out . The print on the wood doesn't soak into the wood it just sticks to the surface and is easy to sand any unwanted print on the wood as it's just on the surface of the wood.
Thanks a bunch for the tips, Billy! 😊 But I hope you never need to build an rc airplane in the experimental airlines style! 😂 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I hate spray adhesive. I use the full page package labels. I can print my design and just press it on. Using the contact paper with that should be a win. That said, I have to order them off Amazon because I can't find them local.
“The Winfield collection” makes “scroll saw tape”. It’s clear, 8.5” wide and adhesive on both sides. This may not be the least expensive method but definitely the fastest easiest method. Plus no spray glue… so no gooey messes on anything!
Buy a cheap diode laser and simply laser the artwork onto the wood and then proceed to cut with your scroll saw.. That’s what I been doing. You will save a ton of time and also save money on all that tape, glue and paper.
Great idea with the contact paper, I recently purchased some inexpensive vinyl adhesive printer paper. Basically skipped the step of having to glue the pattern to the contact paper. My first reservation was how strong the adhesive would hold to the wood. I actually tried it first on MDF for some small letters I was cutting for a sign. To my surprise it did not lift even in tight fret work spaces. It was super easy to remove the pattern and left no residue. It's super frustrating when I get deep into a project and the pattern starts to lift off my material. Just as frustrating when the patterns twist and tear when you drill access holes for fret work, I do a lot of detailed fret work pieces that require lots of holes. I can lose parts of the pattern if the pattern material lifts durning the drilling process. I often take the time to chamfer the holes in the pattern to prevent the material from rolling up. This is only an issue with very tight detailed patterns. Thanks for your ideas for scrolling, enjoyed the video.
Thanks. Great tip. I'll try the clear contact paper but I'll still always cover my template with packing tape. It keeps the template paper (inevitably white inkjet paper) from fuzzing at the edges where it's cut by the blade or the spindle sander I use to clean up edges.
richard
--
Totally agree! In another video, I'll talk about when I do and do not put tape over it.
Thank you for the tips & tricks, especially the cleaning ones. Most times I get lazy on looking up the best cleaning methods, and they don't normally get included in kids, so thank you!
I wasn't aware that there was clear contact paper. Thanks for the tip!
Once again thought I knew everything about the subject but watched anyway cause I like the presenter. Cardboard box and long handled forceps (I already have them) bingo, another good reason to not scroll past a “Newton Makes”. You make my shop life better in so many little ways.
Just like spray paint, turn the can upside down and spray it. It should clear the nozzle.
Thanks! I immediately ordered some contact paper.
I found that Elmer’s glue sticks work great on the back of template onto the clear shelf liner . I buy the shelf liner and Elmer’s glue sticks at Walmart . Get a bunch of the glue just before school starts at a really great price and store in a climate controlled area.
Update my shop is not heated , went to use the glue sticks and the glue was thicker and didn’t hold as well as when the temperature was warmer . I have used the Elmer’s glue sticks on many different kinds of wood .
I generally lay down the painter's tape and run the Elmer's sticks over the top and then lay down my pattern.
can you draw lines on contact paper?
It also some how cools the saw blade while cutting
I love the painters tape been doing squirrel cell work for 15 years I love it
Ever try "Transfer Tape" for vinyl graphics? It comes in different sticky-ness. Is that a word? Anyway... Suggestion.
I haven't but it could be worth trying!
I have a xerox printer connected to my computer, and I just print out what I want flip it over and iron it over the wood pull off the paper and the image I want is transferred to the wood, then all I have to do is cut it out . The print on the wood doesn't soak into the wood it just sticks to the surface and is easy to sand any unwanted print on the wood as it's just on the surface of the wood.
Completely agree with contact paper. Definitely the easiest way. I cheapest I've found is ordering a case at a time from the dollar store.
Great suggestion!
What type of printer do you
How hard is it to remove the contact paper once piece is cut?
Effortlessly peels off
Thanks a bunch for the tips, Billy! 😊
But I hope you never need to build an rc airplane in the experimental airlines style! 😂
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What type of wood
I can't wait to see that Deadpool project you're working on
You can get the contact paper at the Dollar store making it even more economical than the painter’s tape by far.
I hate spray adhesive. I use the full page package labels. I can print my design and just press it on. Using the contact paper with that should be a win. That said, I have to order them off Amazon because I can't find them local.
Can you print the image on the contact paper?????
You might be able to. I've never looked for printable contact paper. That could be useful.
That is my preferred, but if the pattern becomes to big, I trace it with carbon paper.
“The Winfield collection” makes “scroll saw tape”. It’s clear, 8.5” wide and adhesive on both sides. This may not be the least expensive method but definitely the fastest easiest method. Plus no spray glue… so no gooey messes on anything!
Very cool!
Great idea
Just use craft glue sticks (the kind in a twist container) on the back of the paper template and attach directly to the wood, zero residue
better way cnc v bit your design
skip the spray, I use glue stick, the stuff used in offices to glue paper, cheap, easy, no spray. Safe , no smell.
or wipe nozzle with 99% alcohol
Buy a cheap diode laser and simply laser the artwork onto the wood and then proceed to cut with your scroll saw.. That’s what I been doing. You will save a ton of time and also save money on all that tape, glue and paper.
Each person has to perform their art in a way that is satisfying. I'm glad you found a great method for satisfying your creative itch.
All that is a waste of time and money. I just trace my pattern with carbon paper. That way, I don't destroy my pattern and can use it again and again.