After owning Japanese cars all my life apart from a mk4 golf and finally being in a 2020 Golf R Final Edition, no amout of Godzilla could get me back into a Japanese car 😂 😂 If I had the money to be mucking with a skyline GTR I'd be looking for an German car of similar performance, that's from a music nut prospective obviously these cars just aren't a good platform and almost all euro cars are superior from the audio signal you can get out of them to the build quality to base your project on. I was obsessed with the skylines too for bit but when are you ever going to be able to enjoy 1000 hp daily (if you take it that far) , I'll take a good base for music any day, and I think the golf is a fantastic platofm in its price range & do it all car genre. Sure it's not the PS SOUND Mercedes quiet 👂 & it doesn't have drivers in the firewall from factory (fantastic idea BTW Mercedes love it) but it's a solid little car that doesn't rattle much even with a jl 13w7 in the back and the factory dynaudio drivers in the door sound amazing for what they are and will never be upgraded unless I do IB kicks or a custom door card build preferably, this little car quick as lightening with a few cheap mods as well so it's fun to drive spiritedly on top of it all, Just my humble opinion 😊✌️
That's a cool controller for the Fiio!! The build I'm working on is getting an Android headunit and a Fiio DAP. The Headunit will have the Fiio Link app installed on it so j can control the hidden-Away DAP from the screen and steering controls. I just wish I could find a way to make Helix Ultra do automatic source switching between an I optical (headunit) and a coaxial (fiio) source . That way if listening on the Fiio coax, and a phonecall or mav prompt comes in it would switch over to the headunit optical. I'm looking into a new radio that does USB audio out - will have to see if the Helix can do the auto source switching between USB and coax!
How do you find the fiio link app. I had it in my previous car and I was over the moon when I saw there was an app that links to the fiio dap. But when I installed it I was not impressed as it was very limited and naturally found myself just pressing the dap controls on the dap when needed. Not sure if they have updated it as it was a few years ago.
I see the main problem. It's just under the FIIO controller. "Sound by BOSE" I have a Hyundai with BOSE in it. The amp is a complete shocker. It takes away from the people that just want to keep the factory headunit. As it's best to just completely bypass the BOSE amp.
Great video, Peter! I'm currently building a GTR as well and wanted to keep the OEM setup as a source. Did you take the high-level output directly from the back of the unit? Does the volume knob still function on the OEM unit when you're using the CD or radio? I took a signal from the amp’s output from the head unit side, but I noticed there is some engine noise. So, I was thinking of going direct from the rear. I noticed you mentioned it has a fixed output level. However, I found mine to be different since it has the Bose system, and the speakers seem to have passive crossovers. Did you encounter this issue as well with your GTR?
Hi, There was an installation done before us by another shop, so we just picked things up where they were left off. It seems that the line out from the HU was cut at the OEM amp and they soldered RCAs on them. We just extended it and run a longer RCA to the boot. OEM volume is buttons are not functional this way, we have to use the controller for the DSP.
@@pssound9749 Unfortunately that is often the case. I would recommend NoCopyrightSounds for EDM music, but for other genres I'm not too sure myself. Might be possible to find some tracks on RUclips Audio Library which are all royalty free.
I don't do much with Brax/Helix as we mostly sell Arc Audio and Mosconi for DSP and amplifiers, but the few times we've done a DAP (Astell and Kern) we used an Audioquest high end cable to go analog into the DSP as I was under the impression the whole purpose of the DAP is to take advantage of their built in D/A converter, which is supposedly much better quality than the D/A built into these amplifiers. Thoughts?
You always use the D/A in the DSPs no matter what input you use. When you use analog input into any DSP, you’ll go through the A/D converter, so you have D/A from DAP, then A/D on DSP input. 2 conversions. Running digital all the way you have no conversion, so…
After having to work in a door with the service opening completely covered in deadening, I'm a firm believer in using MLV instead and a sealing tape to fix it to the door opening. Is there any advantage of sealing it with deadening instead of cutting an MLV panel along with a decoupling foam? Another thing is, living in Florida, I add fans to the amp rack to keep em from going into protection mode. Especially when under a cover.
@MrBroly10000 If done properly, it's easy to apply any CLD mat deadening sheets and CCF selectively so that any & all of the service openings or access panels are still easily accessible. It just takes a bit more time, some careful thought, pre-planning, and proper execution! But installing sound deadening is already a very tedious and time consuming process, so most people just want to take the quickest & easiest route to finish the job and take no extra time to do it right in order to maintain OEM serviceability. :/ In addition, CLD mat or tiles, CCF, and MLV all do different things & perform different functions and will work best when properly combined, so just using MLV doesn't really optimize the results. In place of MLV, and especially for use in the doors, I would highly recommend using a mold-able CCF/Lead Sheet/CCF "sandwich" product such as the ResoNix "Barrier" product, or create your own using 1/32" thick sheet lead covered on both sides with adhesive-backed 1/8" compressible CCF. This will provide even better performance versus the 1/8" MLV, and can be held in place with 4-6 tabs of industrial-strength Velcro so that the entire sheet is easily removable & replaceable. Using 1/8" thick (1 pound per square foot) MLV is really thick and bulky and will not easily conform to the various contours and uneven surfaces of the metal door skin and/or door panel trim door card. It's a PITA to work with. MLV is easier to use on larger flat areas such as the floor pan and trunk/boot floor. But the sheet lead with CCF will easily conform to and hold its shape over any contours or uneven surfaces. Unfortunately, the CCF/Sheet Lead/CCF will cost more compared to an equal amout of 1/8" MLV, so fewer people are likely to use it. But having used both now for multiple installs over the years, I'd use the CCF/Lead Sheet/CCF barrier EVERY time in place of MLV! It is So Much Easier to work with and saves a lot of time during installation compared to MLV. So, if you're paying someone to do the sound deadening installation for you, the extra cost for the product will usually be recouped in fewer total hours of labor expense for installation. HTH.
@bbfoto7248 I cut the MLV the same shape of the vapor barrier plus about an inch for overhang, lay it over the vapor barrier, seal all the edges with seam tape, apply a layer of CCF the same shape of the MLV to decouple from the door trim, then instal the trim back without issues. This is after deadening the door to about 25-50%, depending on the car. It seals the door, adds stiffness, and reduces the road noise significantly. Usually, there is about a 10db reduction depending on the car, just doing the doors that way.
Hi, As we explained in the video, there was already an existing installation in the car when it came to us, so it wasn’t us doing that part, but yes, they had to get the power through the firewall somewhere.
finished the video and yeah, i came to a similar conclusion with my R33. you cannot just bolt stuff in an expect it to work. I could dump a shit load of time and money into the system and it probably still wouldnt be as good as a 3 series bolt in upgrade. The cars just arent made for it. 😣
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
‘Some people could look at they’re diet’ 😂😂
I could also loose 15kg to be honest 🤦🏻♂️😃
😂😂😂😂
Amazing job Peter.
the best sound it makes is when the engine starts :p
Yeah they sell left hand drive in the US for a cool $120,000. That’s my dream car but it wouldn’t be for a sound system,it’d be to go really fast.
They really aren’t that fast though
Not out of the box but you can make them as scary fast as you can afford. The fastest drag race ones run mid 6’s in the 1/4 mile.
After owning Japanese cars all my life apart from a mk4 golf and finally being in a 2020 Golf R Final Edition, no amout of Godzilla could get me back into a Japanese car 😂 😂
If I had the money to be mucking with a skyline GTR I'd be looking for an German car of similar performance, that's from a music nut prospective obviously these cars just aren't a good platform and almost all euro cars are superior from the audio signal you can get out of them to the build quality to base your project on. I was obsessed with the skylines too for bit but when are you ever going to be able to enjoy 1000 hp daily (if you take it that far) , I'll take a good base for music any day, and I think the golf is a fantastic platofm in its price range & do it all car genre.
Sure it's not the PS SOUND Mercedes quiet 👂 & it doesn't have drivers in the firewall from factory (fantastic idea BTW Mercedes love it) but it's a solid little car that doesn't rattle much even with a jl 13w7 in the back and the factory dynaudio drivers in the door sound amazing for what they are and will never be upgraded unless I do IB kicks or a custom door card build preferably, this little car quick as lightening with a few cheap mods as well so it's fun to drive spiritedly on top of it all, Just my humble opinion 😊✌️
Jimmy : "yes they do....maybe".
That's a cool controller for the Fiio!!
The build I'm working on is getting an Android headunit and a Fiio DAP. The Headunit will have the Fiio Link app installed on it so j can control the hidden-Away DAP from the screen and steering controls.
I just wish I could find a way to make Helix Ultra do automatic source switching between an I optical (headunit) and a coaxial (fiio) source . That way if listening on the Fiio coax, and a phonecall or mav prompt comes in it would switch over to the headunit optical.
I'm looking into a new radio that does USB audio out - will have to see if the Helix can do the auto source switching between USB and coax!
How do you find the fiio link app. I had it in my previous car and I was over the moon when I saw there was an app that links to the fiio dap. But when I installed it I was not impressed as it was very limited and naturally found myself just pressing the dap controls on the dap when needed. Not sure if they have updated it as it was a few years ago.
I see the main problem. It's just under the FIIO controller. "Sound by BOSE" I have a Hyundai with BOSE in it. The amp is a complete shocker.
It takes away from the people that just want to keep the factory headunit. As it's best to just completely bypass the BOSE amp.
We took the Bose amp out and this HU had the option to get low-level signal out of it, which is actually clean and sounds great.
They sell them in the U.S.
Great video, Peter! I'm currently building a GTR as well and wanted to keep the OEM setup as a source. Did you take the high-level output directly from the back of the unit? Does the volume knob still function on the OEM unit when you're using the CD or radio? I took a signal from the amp’s output from the head unit side, but I noticed there is some engine noise. So, I was thinking of going direct from the rear. I noticed you mentioned it has a fixed output level. However, I found mine to be different since it has the Bose system, and the speakers seem to have passive crossovers. Did you encounter this issue as well with your GTR?
Hi,
There was an installation done before us by another shop, so we just picked things up where they were left off.
It seems that the line out from the HU was cut at the OEM amp and they soldered RCAs on them. We just extended it and run a longer RCA to the boot.
OEM volume is buttons are not functional this way, we have to use the controller for the DSP.
@@pssound9749@pssound9749 Thanks for the response, Peter .
Might be worth doing no copyright/royalty free audio for the demo videos, so they don't get taken down.
Send me a list of those songs please! Usually the trouble is that all the good stuff is not free.
Rubbertoe! Did a double take reading your comment and turns out its you lmao
@@pssound9749 Nightmode record label is all copyright free, hopefully you find something good on there!
@@vinceventresca6719 No way lol.
@@pssound9749 Unfortunately that is often the case. I would recommend NoCopyrightSounds for EDM music, but for other genres I'm not too sure myself. Might be possible to find some tracks on RUclips Audio Library which are all royalty free.
Should have cut a hole for IB sub...for weight saving.
🤣🤣
And kicks in ib
I don't do much with Brax/Helix as we mostly sell Arc Audio and Mosconi for DSP and amplifiers, but the few times we've done a DAP (Astell and Kern) we used an Audioquest high end cable to go analog into the DSP as I was under the impression the whole purpose of the DAP is to take advantage of their built in D/A converter, which is supposedly much better quality than the D/A built into these amplifiers. Thoughts?
You always use the D/A in the DSPs no matter what input you use. When you use analog input into any DSP, you’ll go through the A/D converter, so you have D/A from DAP, then A/D on DSP input. 2 conversions.
Running digital all the way you have no conversion, so…
After having to work in a door with the service opening completely covered in deadening, I'm a firm believer in using MLV instead and a sealing tape to fix it to the door opening. Is there any advantage of sealing it with deadening instead of cutting an MLV panel along with a decoupling foam? Another thing is, living in Florida, I add fans to the amp rack to keep em from going into protection mode. Especially when under a cover.
@MrBroly10000
If done properly, it's easy to apply any CLD mat deadening sheets and CCF selectively so that any & all of the service openings or access panels are still easily accessible.
It just takes a bit more time, some careful thought, pre-planning, and proper execution!
But installing sound deadening is already a very tedious and time consuming process, so most people just want to take the quickest & easiest route to finish the job and take no extra time to do it right in order to maintain OEM serviceability. :/
In addition, CLD mat or tiles, CCF, and MLV all do different things & perform different functions and will work best when properly combined, so just using MLV doesn't really optimize the results.
In place of MLV, and especially for use in the doors, I would highly recommend using a mold-able CCF/Lead Sheet/CCF "sandwich" product such as the ResoNix "Barrier" product, or create your own using 1/32" thick sheet lead covered on both sides with adhesive-backed 1/8" compressible CCF.
This will provide even better performance versus the 1/8" MLV, and can be held in place with 4-6 tabs of industrial-strength Velcro so that the entire sheet is easily removable & replaceable.
Using 1/8" thick (1 pound per square foot) MLV is really thick and bulky and will not easily conform to the various contours and uneven surfaces of the metal door skin and/or door panel trim door card. It's a PITA to work with. MLV is easier to use on larger flat areas such as the floor pan and trunk/boot floor.
But the sheet lead with CCF will easily conform to and hold its shape over any contours or uneven surfaces. Unfortunately, the CCF/Sheet Lead/CCF will cost more compared to an equal amout of 1/8" MLV, so fewer people are likely to use it.
But having used both now for multiple installs over the years, I'd use the CCF/Lead Sheet/CCF barrier EVERY time in place of MLV!
It is So Much Easier to work with and saves a lot of time during installation compared to MLV. So, if you're paying someone to do the sound deadening installation for you, the extra cost for the product will usually be recouped in fewer total hours of labor expense for installation.
HTH.
@bbfoto7248 I cut the MLV the same shape of the vapor barrier plus about an inch for overhang, lay it over the vapor barrier, seal all the edges with seam tape, apply a layer of CCF the same shape of the MLV to decouple from the door trim, then instal the trim back without issues. This is after deadening the door to about 25-50%, depending on the car. It seals the door, adds stiffness, and reduces the road noise significantly. Usually, there is about a 10db reduction depending on the car, just doing the doors that way.
Where did you run the amp kit wire from the battery thru the firewall?
Hi,
As we explained in the video, there was already an existing installation in the car when it came to us, so it wasn’t us doing that part, but yes, they had to get the power through the firewall somewhere.
Hi Peter, I’m looking at patreon, can’t understand is there subscription which includes fabrication, rta and more in one? Thanks
Hi
Higher tiers get access to all the content in lower tiers too. If you sign up to the fabrication tier, you get to see everything.
very interesting! Good to know the newer skylines are just as much of a shitbox as the older ones haha. Coming from a skyline owner!
finished the video and yeah, i came to a similar conclusion with my R33. you cannot just bolt stuff in an expect it to work. I could dump a shit load of time and money into the system and it probably still wouldnt be as good as a 3 series bolt in upgrade. The cars just arent made for it. 😣
Complaining about the HiFi system in a GTR is like whining about the B&O in a RS5….. Oh wait a minute! 😂😂🤭😝😝