How the HELL can you put that many pieces of equipment, expensive equipment, in the boot looking like THAT!! Now I see why professional was in quotes! I forgot to say your the best! You put the pro in professional! Nice job as always!
Oh my dear lord I feel for you bud........ I'm noooo where near your level of knowledge but even my stuff is way better than what you started with here. Thanks to you I'm getting even better... so thank you!
Miss my mk4 golf too. They are timeless and love the interior colours in this one. We didn't get 2 door GTI in Australia I don't think just r32s. Mk4 forever even though I'm in a 7.5 R ❤❤
This video showcases the incredible transformation of a car's audio system done by professionals. From start to finish, it's an amazing demonstration of their skills and expertise. I love how they were able to create such an immersive sound experience with high-quality equipment. It's truly inspiring to see the difference that good installation can make. 🚗🎶 #CarAudioInstallation #Transformation #SoundSystem #QualityEquipment
Hi Peter, just followed your channel for 10 days and found all I have watched very informative and addictive. Your big fan now. Thanks for creating very good contents.
I can't remember the last time I saw a glass AGU fuse that passed all the voltage it was supposed to...that's usually one of the problems we see with budget installs...that and CCA wire make for a bad day. lol
Can't tell if this is a real 25th Anniversary Edition GTI, or just has some of the bits from one, but it's a bit of a blast from the past for me. I had a GTI 337 Edition (US Version of the 25th AE) with a decent system in it that I built myself back in the day, so that trunk and the inside of those doors looks quite familiar to me. Personally I did a 12 inch MB Quart PW-304 sub moulded into the front rounded section of the spare tire well in fiberglass, with an amp rack built onto the back of the sub enclosure for a McIntosh MC431 feeding a 6.5 inch Quart Q set in the factory possitions. The Qs had (GASP!) MDF mounting rings because nobody knew any better back then, LOL! Fabircation techniques have improved a lot over the years. Finally there was an MMATS 600.1 for sub duty. Also had an Alumapro 15 farad cap in that bottom later of the amp rack, back when we thought those actually did something. Headunit was an Eclipse with built in crossover, time alignment, and DSP functionality and 4V outs. I built a thickish perforated steel cover for the sub/amp rack that formed the new load floor, and installed black loose-weave carpet over that to allow sound and heat through but conceal the contents. Only raised the load floor by about a half inch, and worked perfectly. Got worried the Mac was going to cook itself though, because the fitment was a little tight, so I replaced it with a US Amps TU-600, which a sales guy talked me into trying because he wanted to hear one by cutting me a wicked deal on it. Imagine my shock when that TU-600 sounded worlds better than the Mac did. LOL! Went down 100 watts in rated power, and felt like we had doubled the actual power output. Sadly a coworker backed into the car, and the body shop missed that the cabin pressure vent in the rear left corner was cracked when it went in for repairs. The next big rain we got, the trunk nearly filled up with water and torched everything but the sub and the TU-600, which was mounted up top in the Amp rack. If the owner of this car should ever have a minor ding on the back end, I highly recommend they make sure that cabin pressure vent is checked. It's just below the taillight assembly if memory serves, behind the bumper.
I'm a DIY'er installer (only do my own cars) and I was shocked at that previous installation.. Where's the PRIDE in their work, or don't they have any??
12:53 The sad thing is the grille can be removed from those pods to grind and fit the aftermarket tweeters. Even Hertz offers 0.75 inch tweeters. Glad y'all decided to pick up this project for rescue.
Hi Peter, just a quick question about distribution blocks. Is there any downside of using a fused distribution block for ground connection? Should i machine a solid block to act as a fuse or just use regular ANLs? Mega content as always by the way.
even when I was 14 or 15 running car audio in my mustang wasn't even legal to drive yet . my wiring might have been shabby but even then my mess would sound amazing... That ground tho👀 wtf
Are you willing to disclose how much the original shop charged the customer for the botched job? Or a rough estimate of what a normal shop would charge for something like this (but with better practices)? Just curious, and thanks for all the info and help so far!
Average shop rate in UK is £50-70/hour. Some throw that rack in in few hours whereas we spent 8hours just on that bit and didn’t even pull the wires in.
The saddest thing is that when a "lay person", potential client, rolls up to a shop one of the first things (if not the first thing) asked is "What is your budget.". The client then gets the install done by the "professional" or "expert" at a deal... maybe 10-15% below "budget" so great deal, huh?! A professional will first find out what the customer expectations, experiences, & desires are and then display their credentials & preferred House components, sharing prices. THEN find out the client's budget and moving from that point. A filet mignon costs much more than a McFrankenmeat 'burger'. Probably a 100% certainty that the first "shop" asked first thing, "So, what's your budget?". Any potential client should turn around and walk out the door at that point. They get prospective clients to sign a work contract also, BIG mistake. That also goes for attorneys, dentists, mechanics, etc. Walk into a McDonald's and tell the cashier that you have $200 to spend and see how quickly a (bad) manager will walk right up and tell them how they'll throw in all of the bells & whistles, offer them a McFlurry & fries while they wait... don't worry about ordering... let us tell you all of the wonderful things we're going to get for you. An empty pocket, hours of vomiting, and a diabetic coma are the result but hey, the 'shop' wasn't to blame. After all, the guy walked in and said that he had a $200 budget so they stayed within his budget, even at a savings... only $170 VAT included. What a deal & service (favor) they did for that customer.
Because XT leaves zero chance for shortage when it’s unplugged as opposed to banana plugs. Speak-on connector is another safe option, just larger in size, hence less practical for installation in a car.
Nice save. Not even close to difficult to do what you guys did to that car. Like you said, some guys just need to stop doing Car Audio. That was horrid wiring. I despise rat nest and spaghetti wiring.
Nice work, as always a pleasure to watch. May I ask if you have only stereo front (two midbass and two tweeters) and one sub in the back, do you need them tuned or time aligned? Is such setup simple enough that it doesn’t need any tuning. Do I need to buy the tuning equipment and tune it? I will appreciate any help. Thanks!
Every speaker needs tuning in a car, but you’ll probably needs help of a professional who can do it. It’s not like you just buy the equipment and you can tune.
@@pssound9749 this Is my passion. My journey. It seems to me that I have to learn tuning so I can play with my system like a boss. Can you give any advice where to start? I wold appreciate it a lot.
Can you tell me what the problem is when you hear alternator whine? I have a Hyundai hybrid and I can hear the whine, sometimes I think it’s amplified in my teeeters
Hi, Usually it can be 3 things and most possibly in the following order 1. Bad ground point between HU and amps 2. Faulty equipment 3. Poor RCA 4. Faulty alternator
You used open cell foam for the midbass That will not work as intended to give sound direction out of the door. The sound will bounce around inside the door card You have to use closed cell foam
How the HELL can you put that many pieces of equipment, expensive equipment, in the boot looking like THAT!! Now I see why professional was in quotes! I forgot to say your the best! You put the pro in professional! Nice job as always!
This is what a pro does . Makes tough jobs look simple
Another great teaching video
Oh my dear lord I feel for you bud........ I'm noooo where near your level of knowledge but even my stuff is way better than what you started with here. Thanks to you I'm getting even better... so thank you!
Miss my mk4 golf too. They are timeless and love the interior colours in this one. We didn't get 2 door GTI in Australia I don't think just r32s. Mk4 forever even though I'm in a 7.5 R ❤❤
This video showcases the incredible transformation of a car's audio system done by professionals. From start to finish, it's an amazing demonstration of their skills and expertise. I love how they were able to create such an immersive sound experience with high-quality equipment. It's truly inspiring to see the difference that good installation can make. 🚗🎶 #CarAudioInstallation #Transformation #SoundSystem #QualityEquipment
Hi Peter, just followed your channel for 10 days and found all I have watched very informative and addictive. Your big fan now. Thanks for creating very good contents.
Get comfortable, possibly some snacks, you got some catching up to do lol
And that is a big problem. Watching this videos is fckin addictive like drugs, and don't have time to build car audio :DDD
Another PSsound smile
No comments 🙈, but Pssound fixed all that mess again
Big transformation in a short time 👍
Great fix.
Great work fixing this nightmare!
I can't remember the last time I saw a glass AGU fuse that passed all the voltage it was supposed to...that's usually one of the problems we see with budget installs...that and CCA wire make for a bad day. lol
Very cool!!!
Nice
And that mk4 looks great 👌👌💪
Thanks Marcel, it's my pride and joy. Have owned it for 19years. Peter has totally transformed the system.
"The deadening brings it forward"
These guys
🤣🤣🤣
Can't tell if this is a real 25th Anniversary Edition GTI, or just has some of the bits from one, but it's a bit of a blast from the past for me. I had a GTI 337 Edition (US Version of the 25th AE) with a decent system in it that I built myself back in the day, so that trunk and the inside of those doors looks quite familiar to me.
Personally I did a 12 inch MB Quart PW-304 sub moulded into the front rounded section of the spare tire well in fiberglass, with an amp rack built onto the back of the sub enclosure for a McIntosh MC431 feeding a 6.5 inch Quart Q set in the factory possitions. The Qs had (GASP!) MDF mounting rings because nobody knew any better back then, LOL! Fabircation techniques have improved a lot over the years. Finally there was an MMATS 600.1 for sub duty. Also had an Alumapro 15 farad cap in that bottom later of the amp rack, back when we thought those actually did something. Headunit was an Eclipse with built in crossover, time alignment, and DSP functionality and 4V outs.
I built a thickish perforated steel cover for the sub/amp rack that formed the new load floor, and installed black loose-weave carpet over that to allow sound and heat through but conceal the contents. Only raised the load floor by about a half inch, and worked perfectly. Got worried the Mac was going to cook itself though, because the fitment was a little tight, so I replaced it with a US Amps TU-600, which a sales guy talked me into trying because he wanted to hear one by cutting me a wicked deal on it. Imagine my shock when that TU-600 sounded worlds better than the Mac did. LOL! Went down 100 watts in rated power, and felt like we had doubled the actual power output.
Sadly a coworker backed into the car, and the body shop missed that the cabin pressure vent in the rear left corner was cracked when it went in for repairs. The next big rain we got, the trunk nearly filled up with water and torched everything but the sub and the TU-600, which was mounted up top in the Amp rack. If the owner of this car should ever have a minor ding on the back end, I highly recommend they make sure that cabin pressure vent is checked. It's just below the taillight assembly if memory serves, behind the bumper.
That’s a fire waiting to happen!
Excelente
excellent primary install - the owner believes in god, not fuses 😁😆😂
Peter - well done as always!
It wasn’t done by the owner…
"Fused by God", never heard before but I loved it 😁😎
I'm a DIY'er installer (only do my own cars) and I was shocked at that previous installation..
Where's the PRIDE in their work, or don't they have any??
How did that crap not go up in smoke? Peter saved you a car bruh.
Once again another car audio save.
Do you have a video on tweeter aiming?
Hi Charles, Thank you for your continuous support! I have a video on the channel about speaker aiming, plus more in-depth ones on the Patreon channel.
No fuse distribution?? wow! that's car fire waiting to happen
I guess I only need an equalizer and sound deadening for delay. Who needs a DSP. LOL
Amp installation would make it to our 'Friday Fail' posts....🤣
Fan trying to cool the oven???
12:53 The sad thing is the grille can be removed from those pods to grind and fit the aftermarket tweeters. Even Hertz offers 0.75 inch tweeters.
Glad y'all decided to pick up this project for rescue.
Hi Peter, just a quick question about distribution blocks. Is there any downside of using a fused distribution block for ground connection? Should i machine a solid block to act as a fuse or just use regular ANLs? Mega content as always by the way.
If you have to have a fused one for ground too, then use solid links instead of fuses or the largest ANL fuses possible.
even when I was 14 or 15 running car audio in my mustang wasn't even legal to drive yet . my wiring might have been shabby but even then my mess would sound amazing... That ground tho👀 wtf
This is a reference hack install.. showing how low the bar can be set... 🤣🤣
Are you willing to disclose how much the original shop charged the customer for the botched job? Or a rough estimate of what a normal shop would charge for something like this (but with better practices)? Just curious, and thanks for all the info and help so far!
Average shop rate in UK is £50-70/hour. Some throw that rack in in few hours whereas we spent 8hours just on that bit and didn’t even pull the wires in.
@@pssound9749 Perfect, thanks for the perspective! 👍
Where are you based please??
Shocking! Didn't take long to find the installer on insta. ,🤣
did you record the tuning process for this?
Yes, it has already been shared on Patreon.
The saddest thing is that when a "lay person", potential client, rolls up to a shop one of the first things (if not the first thing) asked is "What is your budget.". The client then gets the install done by the "professional" or "expert" at a deal... maybe 10-15% below "budget" so great deal, huh?! A professional will first find out what the customer expectations, experiences, & desires are and then display their credentials & preferred House components, sharing prices. THEN find out the client's budget and moving from that point. A filet mignon costs much more than a McFrankenmeat 'burger'.
Probably a 100% certainty that the first "shop" asked first thing, "So, what's your budget?". Any potential client should turn around and walk out the door at that point. They get prospective clients to sign a work contract also, BIG mistake. That also goes for attorneys, dentists, mechanics, etc. Walk into a McDonald's and tell the cashier that you have $200 to spend and see how quickly a (bad) manager will walk right up and tell them how they'll throw in all of the bells & whistles, offer them a McFlurry & fries while they wait... don't worry about ordering... let us tell you all of the wonderful things we're going to get for you. An empty pocket, hours of vomiting, and a diabetic coma are the result but hey, the 'shop' wasn't to blame. After all, the guy walked in and said that he had a $200 budget so they stayed within his budget, even at a savings... only $170 VAT included. What a deal & service (favor) they did for that customer.
How come you went with an XT connector for the subwoofer instead of using banana plugs? Cambridge Audio do some nice tight fitting ones.
Because XT leaves zero chance for shortage when it’s unplugged as opposed to banana plugs. Speak-on connector is another safe option, just larger in size, hence less practical for installation in a car.
@@pssound9749 that’s a good point, thanks for sharing
Nice save. Not even close to difficult to do what you guys did to that car. Like you said, some guys just need to stop doing Car Audio. That was horrid wiring. I despise rat nest and spaghetti wiring.
Does one not separate audio and power since the power cables create an elektromagnetic field around them?
Imagine ppl have to pay to get that crap work done. Nice clean up Peter
Nice work, as always a pleasure to watch. May I ask if you have only stereo front (two midbass and two tweeters) and one sub in the back, do you need them tuned or time aligned? Is such setup simple enough that it doesn’t need any tuning. Do I need to buy the tuning equipment and tune it? I will appreciate any help. Thanks!
Every speaker needs tuning in a car, but you’ll probably needs help of a professional who can do it. It’s not like you just buy the equipment and you can tune.
@@pssound9749 this Is my passion. My journey. It seems to me that I have to learn tuning so I can play with my system like a boss. Can you give any advice where to start? I wold appreciate it a lot.
So..... no 5 farad capacitor laying on top of the amps??😂 What a mess!!
Shit like that annoys me...They're happy to take a man's hard earned cash to just throw it in like that...
What is that metal mix that you use in the front factory speaker pods?
Saw that Victron controller for the Lithium. How are you liking that kind of separation and control over two different power supplies?
There’s no 2 different supplies. System runs from the lithium battery, which is topped up by the Victron charger.
Can you tell me what the problem is when you hear alternator whine? I have a Hyundai hybrid and I can hear the whine, sometimes I think it’s amplified in my teeeters
Hi,
Usually it can be 3 things and most possibly in the following order
1. Bad ground point between HU and amps
2. Faulty equipment
3. Poor RCA
4. Faulty alternator
What is the "steel mix" you used for the factory speaker bracket?
Milkshake with lots of steel powder
Strange those don't deliver bass in that door. My golf4 and passat b5.5 have so much bass from cheaper drivers than those Mile hmmm
I didn't really have an issue with midbass in my Golf 4 either. For the time, it was actually quite good. Times do change though.
Awesome job!!
Oh my....
The Comments were on 69 I'm really sorry for my comment 😔 but new Subscriber here!
I’m not even sure what comment you refer to, but hopefully you can find plenty of useful content here.
@pssound9749 the amount of comments was on "69" mines the 70th lol
You used open cell foam for the midbass
That will not work as intended to give sound direction out of the door. The sound will bounce around inside the door card
You have to use closed cell foam
Why anyone uses mdf in car doors is beyond me. 🤮
its worse then I thought!
Call the fire department, risk of fire. Completely unsafe installation.
LOL
When you open the trunk you think they made a Gulasch soup
Looks like a little kid did the work wiring the amps what a joke. This guy paid to have this done??? Poor guy got ripped off.