I have an old Troy build push mower that has a goofy autochoke device. If I restart it with a few minutes all is good. If I wait a little longer the autochoke comes on and it will not start. If I pop off the air cleaner and stick a screwdriver or knife blade into carb to hold the choke open, it starts right up. if I had waited longer til the engine cools off it will fire up. Has been doing this for about 8 years. I'm too frugal to replace the autochoke device. There is a window of time where it doesn't respond. Thanks for your videos keep them coming.
Try adjusting the coil. When it gets hot, it rubs against the stator and prevents restarts without cooling off first. It was my problem with my Troy Built. There are youtube videos on how to do it.
Great video. I’m a 1 clean attempt and if that doesn’t work I opt for the new cheap carb. And I agree need to use it for a bit prior to selling it so you don’t pass a lemon off on the next person. Good business sense. Thank you again!!
i had an old tiller that would stop/not restart when it got hot . worked out well , as we both got hot/needed a break at about the same time . sadly our arrangement of convienence came to an end when it eventually decided to not start , even when cold . found that the pushrod for the points had swelled and was jamming when hot . fixed it , but our beautiful understanding was over . pardon the tears , i get emotional .
I’m a cheap ass and will try to clean the carb probably about three times before I buy an aftermarket one 😂 I do agree on keeping the mower for a while before you sell it. I’ve had a couple come back because I sold them too quickly before tearing
Hello again. I could have overlooked videos that you posted this winter but I didn't see any so a Harty hello again. Nice to see your videos again. This was one of those real learning videos. As always well done and simple to understand. Figured it was the carb but had to watch anyway ha ha. Thanks alot.
Just a thought: engines with the autochoke linkage coming from the exhaust port on the engine can be caused by a bad exhaust temp sensor, causing the choke to malfunction when hot.😊 10:16
Mine always started when hot but might get cranky or non-cranky when cold BUT That was the Kawasaki on the Kawasnapper and all that was wrong with it was the choke/throttle cable needed moved a bit but after I found that I'd just move it with my thumb and it'd fire right up. Everything else fired right up. And the easiest way is usually the best. Happy week!
It took a bit. I could get it spinning and keep it going so it'd fire by the inertia in the blade but then 2 and 2 finally made 4 and I mashed the throttle on down and off it went. I get awful far between the ears sometimes. PLEASE take that into consideration when I go to rattling off something. LOTS of dust and diesel smoke rattling around inside my head with all that vacuum.@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
Like others have said, I'm cheap, and I'd try to clean it more than once, but probably not more than twice. Unless it's my personal mower. Then I might try as many as three times. I think the last time I was in this situation, it was my trimmer, and I tried to clean the carb three times. Then I bought a cheap replacement, which worked fine.
Whether I buy a new carb or not depends on what type of carb it is and what my plans for this particular project are. If it is a Briggs carb, I will usually replace since it is nearly impossible to clear blockages. On carbs with removable jets, I will usually try to clean them unless the carb is in really bad condition. I am working on a Honda GCV160 right now. The original carb was in such bad condition that I didn't even attempt to clean it, since a new OEM one is only $9. It wasn't worth the time and aggravation.
I never buy a new carb unless the old one can't be fixed. Also check the plug for carbon or crack in the porcelain when hot. I am a little confused way you don't use the ultra-sonic cleaner as designed. I only put a carb that is extremely dirty in a bag or jar when using the cleaner. Usually, I use the ultrasonic cleaner with no bag. I use either purple power or the yellow cleaner from Harbor Freight. Diluted is important when cleaning carbs. Glad you checked the valve clearance; I have had several Honda's lately that are pretty far out of adjustment. (on the GX series engines) Also had a few Hondas used by the Amish, that won't start when hot due to the coil failing. One of them drove me nuts until I had to stand there and watch it fail after about one hour. It was on a paint exhaust for a paint shop in the Amish wood shop. Thanks for the video.
I'm still figuring out how to use it , effectively and to be honest the only way would be to have more than one of them. Each would be filled with different solvents and one would also have clean water in it. Having to change the solution is a real pain.
Agree, I usually put the used solution into a plastic bucket and use it to pre-clean a very dirty carb before putting the carb into the ultrasonic cleaner. I have two, a small one the a larger one so that I don't waste cleaning solution. Thanks @@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
I have had no trouble cleaning out the Honda carburettors & if it had a no start when hot issue then I would check the engines compression as well as the valve clearance because of the valves are holding open slightly then that can cause a no or hard starting issue when the engine is hot as well !
The best fix is as follows: take throttle line off engine. Remove blade from bottom. Remove 3 bolts from bottom on engine. Put engine in a garbage can. Get a Briggs Quantum engine. Bolt Quantum to frame. Reinstall blade and throttle cable. Fill engine with clean oil and fresh gasoline. Mow Happy!
My dad had a craftsman lawnmower from sears it lasted 14 years and he never did any maintenance on it one day I decided to do a cleaning from top to bottom on it I was greasing the wheel bolts up and the last wheel when I tightened the nut on it the bolt snapped from a small fracture on it now we have a honda mower which is way nicer
The only problem with our new Honda mower is grass bypasses the to of the bag into your face so we are waiting for a fix now seems like a problem they have quite often
I have exactly the same lawn mower. Problem is, it starts, runs for about a minute.. starts to falter , then stops. Unable to restart for about 5 minutes .. ( cooling ???) .. I have replaced .............The carb, spark plug, pulled all gas, and gas lines.. taken it apart a dozen times over the past two years.. After buying / installing the new carb and spark plug this year, it does exactly the same thing. Any feedback on what to do next ? I'm thinking of bringing it into a dealership, but expect it will cost more than the mower.. Thanks.. Great video btw.. and agree with all of your troubleshooting steps..
thank you, Have you tried leaving the fuel cap "loose" for a small run test? What I mean is don't use the mower with cap loose, otherwise terrible things could happen. I just wan to make sure the fuel cap is venting air properly. If it runs longer, then replace or service the fuel cap.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Just returned from buying a replacement cap .. It was a standard cap , sold at Lowes , but not necessarily fit for this lawnmower ... Its vented and thought it would help .. It didn't im afraid. I will have to find the exact model of Courage, xt6 Ariens lawnmower and order the exact part on line.. More to come..
I think that the amount of time I would spend trying to clean or repair an old carburetor would be dependent on two major factors: the condition the carb was in when I removed it and opened it up for the first time. If it had debris, rust, and corrosion then I wouldn’t hold out much hope of successfully bringing it back to useable life. Also, if a replacement carburetor costs more than $20-25.00, then I would likely be more motivated to put extra effort and parts into an old carb, like this one, that really didn’t have any meaningful visible damage leading me to believe it was a hopeless case. In the case of those newer, plastic “pulsajet” type carburetors, I force myself to push on trying to bring back an original factory carb when my lazy side just wants to give up and order a cheap aftermarket; knowing that they almost always will come back if you can locate and clear the clog (usually in the plastic jet) and also knowing that the “universal fit” aftermarkets don’t always have the correct sized jetting and sometimes the idle and run speeds will give inferior performance to those of the factory carburetor. I totally agree that restoring the original carb is better and cheaper, but opening a carb to find it full of brown rusty sludge or white powder is usually my signal that it time to log onto the ole “jungle site” and order up a cheap, new “Chineseium fuel toilet”!
Unless the carburetor in question is unobtainable (like those old 90s Briggs and Stratton OHV engines) I'll use an aftermarket carb after a couple of trys. Garage space is a premium that can't be taken up by projects for weeks or months...
How many hp is that engine? Is it a 3.8hp? I have the same mower. Would you replace the whole carb if it’s leaking? If not, where do you buy gaskets for this thing? What size? Haha. So many questions, sorry.
my guess, about 5hp. And as far as the leaking, it depends on where the leak Is coming from? But to make it easy, I would just replace the carb, it'll be much less of a headache
I have an old Troy build push mower that has a goofy autochoke device. If I restart it with a few minutes all is good. If I wait a little longer the autochoke comes on and it will not start. If I pop off the air cleaner and stick a screwdriver or knife blade into carb to hold the choke open, it starts right up. if I had waited longer til the engine cools off it will fire up. Has been doing this for about 8 years. I'm too frugal to replace the autochoke device. There is a window of time where it doesn't respond. Thanks for your videos keep them coming.
Same here with my TroyBilt 230 (bought new in 2013). Did the same thing to hold the choke open. I later cleaned the carb and that seemed to help.
I really like the idea that you're able to live with it.
Try adjusting the coil. When it gets hot, it rubs against the stator and prevents restarts without cooling off first. It was my problem with my Troy Built. There are youtube videos on how to do it.
Great video. I’m a 1 clean attempt and if that doesn’t work I opt for the new cheap carb. And I agree need to use it for a bit prior to selling it so you don’t pass a lemon off on the next person. Good business sense. Thank you again!!
no problem and thank you
i had an old tiller that would stop/not restart when it got hot . worked out well , as we both got hot/needed a break at about the same time . sadly our arrangement of convienence came to an end when it eventually decided to not start , even when cold . found that the pushrod for the points had swelled and was jamming when hot . fixed it , but our beautiful understanding was over . pardon the tears , i get emotional .
😂
LOL!!
I’m a cheap ass and will try to clean the carb probably about three times before I buy an aftermarket one 😂
I do agree on keeping the mower for a while before you sell it. I’ve had a couple come back because I sold them too quickly before tearing
thanks for agreeing!
Hello again. I could have overlooked videos that you posted this winter but I didn't see any so a Harty hello again. Nice to see your videos again. This was one of those real learning videos. As always well done and simple to understand. Figured it was the carb but had to watch anyway ha ha. Thanks alot.
no problem and thank you for visiting again
Saying what you would do sounds like a very good idea thank you for the video
Thanks for watching, I always appreciate your time here.
Just a thought: engines with the autochoke linkage coming from the exhaust port on the engine can be caused by a bad exhaust temp sensor, causing the choke to malfunction when hot.😊 10:16
Love these videos, so informative! I appreciate your content so much!
You are so welcome!
I never throw OEM carbs away unless they are destroyed. The extra parts come in handy, especially on Nikki carbs.
yep, got a box of them somewhere too.
Mine always started when hot but might get cranky or non-cranky when cold BUT That was the Kawasaki on the Kawasnapper and all that was wrong with it was the choke/throttle cable needed moved a bit but after I found that I'd just move it with my thumb and it'd fire right up. Everything else fired right up. And the easiest way is usually the best. Happy week!
at least you figured out what the issue was and was able to deal with it
It took a bit. I could get it spinning and keep it going so it'd fire by the inertia in the blade but then 2 and 2 finally made 4 and I mashed the throttle on down and off it went. I get awful far between the ears sometimes. PLEASE take that into consideration when I go to rattling off something. LOTS of dust and diesel smoke rattling around inside my head with all that vacuum.@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
Like others have said, I'm cheap, and I'd try to clean it more than once, but probably not more than twice. Unless it's my personal mower. Then I might try as many as three times. I think the last time I was in this situation, it was my trimmer, and I tried to clean the carb three times. Then I bought a cheap replacement, which worked fine.
3's a nice number
I would buy a carburetor just like you did. 👍👍👍
great choice
Whether I buy a new carb or not depends on what type of carb it is and what my plans for this particular project are. If it is a Briggs carb, I will usually replace since it is nearly impossible to clear blockages. On carbs with removable jets, I will usually try to clean them unless the carb is in really bad condition. I am working on a Honda GCV160 right now. The original carb was in such bad condition that I didn't even attempt to clean it, since a new OEM one is only $9. It wasn't worth the time and aggravation.
I like the way you think!
I never buy a new carb unless the old one can't be fixed. Also check the plug for carbon or crack in the porcelain when hot. I am a little confused way you don't use the ultra-sonic cleaner as designed. I only put a carb that is extremely dirty in a bag or jar when using the cleaner. Usually, I use the ultrasonic cleaner with no bag. I use either purple power or the yellow cleaner from Harbor Freight. Diluted is important when cleaning carbs. Glad you checked the valve clearance; I have had several Honda's lately that are pretty far out of adjustment. (on the GX series engines) Also had a few Hondas used by the Amish, that won't start when hot due to the coil failing. One of them drove me nuts until I had to stand there and watch it fail after about one hour. It was on a paint exhaust for a paint shop in the Amish wood shop. Thanks for the video.
I'm still figuring out how to use it , effectively and to be honest the only way would be to have more than one of them. Each would be filled with different solvents and one would also have clean water in it. Having to change the solution is a real pain.
Agree, I usually put the used solution into a plastic bucket and use it to pre-clean a very dirty carb before putting the carb into the ultrasonic cleaner. I have two, a small one the a larger one so that I don't waste cleaning solution. Thanks @@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
I have a Lawn Boy with that engine that I found in the trash. Mine even as a blade clutch.
wow nice!
Yeah. For me it was the coil. It was the last thing i replaced after spark plug and carberator. So my old sparkplug and carb are probably good
it happens, but at least you figured it out
Hmmm, doesn't vacuum contolled choke bypass only work if the engine is running? 😮
yep,
I have had no trouble cleaning out the Honda carburettors & if it had a no start when hot issue then I would check the engines compression as well as the valve clearance because of the valves are holding open slightly then that can cause a no or hard starting issue when the engine is hot as well !
that works
The best fix is as follows: take throttle line off engine. Remove blade from bottom. Remove 3 bolts from bottom on engine. Put engine in a garbage can. Get a Briggs Quantum engine. Bolt Quantum to frame. Reinstall blade and throttle cable. Fill engine with clean oil and fresh gasoline. Mow Happy!
LOL!!!!!
My dad had a craftsman lawnmower from sears it lasted 14 years and he never did any maintenance on it one day I decided to do a cleaning from top to bottom on it I was greasing the wheel bolts up and the last wheel when I tightened the nut on it the bolt snapped from a small fracture on it now we have a honda mower which is way nicer
nice choice
The only problem with our new Honda mower is grass bypasses the to of the bag into your face so we are waiting for a fix now seems like a problem they have quite often
I have exactly the same lawn mower. Problem is, it starts, runs for about a minute.. starts to falter , then stops. Unable to restart for about 5 minutes .. ( cooling ???) .. I have replaced .............The carb, spark plug, pulled all gas, and gas lines.. taken it apart a dozen times over the past two years.. After buying / installing the new carb and spark plug this year, it does exactly the same thing. Any feedback on what to do next ? I'm thinking of bringing it into a dealership, but expect it will cost more than the mower.. Thanks.. Great video btw.. and agree with all of your troubleshooting steps..
thank you, Have you tried leaving the fuel cap "loose" for a small run test? What I mean is don't use the mower with cap loose, otherwise terrible things could happen. I just wan to make sure the fuel cap is venting air properly. If it runs longer, then replace or service the fuel cap.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Just returned from buying a replacement cap .. It was a standard cap , sold at Lowes , but not necessarily fit for this lawnmower ... Its vented and thought it would help .. It didn't im afraid. I will have to find the exact model of Courage, xt6 Ariens lawnmower and order the exact part on line.. More to come..
How often do you find lawn equipment on the curb just driving around?
Never
it varies, but it averages to about 1 a week.
A lot of sale been going on this week
Just on 3 mowers and a scrap riding mower frame made 670
It just started for to get more sales on the weekends
yes it's already started here as well, push mowers are going for up to 100 and self propels are a bit more. In a month or so, they'll all be 50% more
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yea they get higher the basics going for 150
I think that the amount of time I would spend trying to clean or repair an old carburetor would be dependent on two major factors: the condition the carb was in when I removed it and opened it up for the first time. If it had debris, rust, and corrosion then I wouldn’t hold out much hope of successfully bringing it back to useable life. Also, if a replacement carburetor costs more than $20-25.00, then I would likely be more motivated to put extra effort and parts into an old carb, like this one, that really didn’t have any meaningful visible damage leading me to believe it was a hopeless case. In the case of those newer, plastic “pulsajet” type carburetors, I force myself to push on trying to bring back an original factory carb when my lazy side just wants to give up and order a cheap aftermarket; knowing that they almost always will come back if you can locate and clear the clog (usually in the plastic jet) and also knowing that the “universal fit” aftermarkets don’t always have the correct sized jetting and sometimes the idle and run speeds will give inferior performance to those of the factory carburetor. I totally agree that restoring the original carb is better and cheaper, but opening a carb to find it full of brown rusty sludge or white powder is usually my signal that it time to log onto the ole “jungle site” and order up a cheap, new “Chineseium fuel toilet”!
well said!
Unless the carburetor in question is unobtainable (like those old 90s Briggs and Stratton OHV engines) I'll use an aftermarket carb after a couple of trys.
Garage space is a premium that can't be taken up by projects for weeks or months...
agreed
keep up the good work 👍
thank you I will!
Hello i was going to put a shut off valve on my push got any recommended
any will do, plastic or metal. I use the cheap inline plastic ones. They work fine for years.
I believe that the ignition coil is starting to be worn out
that's a good possibility
How many hp is that engine? Is it a 3.8hp? I have the same mower. Would you replace the whole carb if it’s leaking? If not, where do you buy gaskets for this thing? What size? Haha. So many questions, sorry.
my guess, about 5hp. And as far as the leaking, it depends on where the leak Is coming from? But to make it easy, I would just replace the carb, it'll be much less of a headache
Where do you buy aftermarket carbs at
I buy my from Amazon. The reason is because of their shipping and return policies.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thanks
I would replace the carb, then take the old one apart and go through it again to see if I missed something.
good choice
Personally: I'd chuck the Kohler motor & swap in a Briggs & call it a day..
I wish I had one to put on there
For me 1st clean by hand 2nd clean my ultrasonic cleaner, if that both fails then buy another carburetor
not a bad choice
I think I See the issue.. begins with a K!
Ah! I see what you did there!
If it's a mower that I'm going to sell, I try cleaning it once. If that doesn't fix it, it gets a cheap aftermarket carb, and done.
great choice !
So, I missed the cause of the hot no start. Was it the carb, filter, fuel, or something else? 😮
I don’t like that vacuum actuated style . That can be problematic
agreed