It makes me happy you mentioned to clean up the mess made from cutting under the door jams because I've seen so many other videos not mentioning that and I'm like.. uh.. not only will that get in the way of the planks laying flat, but if that gets in your joints then you're gonna have separation later on so that's kinda important info to mention lol Anyway, super informative video. I am saving this to watch as reference when I do my flooring soon. Wish me luck.
Great video! I've done a half dozen or so hardwood floors and 3 vinyl plank, some tile and sheet vinyl. I still learned a couple of things here today, thank you.
Great video! Please review how to to the top step transition ( waterfall, bullnose? ) and also what you did for the drop off where the banister is ( add mounding?) Thanks for any help!
Greg & I laid that type of flooring in my current home and it was a lot of work. I really like it and want it in the new house, but idk if it is worth it if we have to put it down! You did a good job on this video and showing how to lay it.
much easier than pretty much any other type of flooring though, whether it's nailing hardwood, setting tile, even just sheet flooring it's all harder pretty much.
Darn. I wanted to see you do the flooring downstairs, as it's the same set up as our camp. And, I was questioning which way we should run our flooring, but you did the upstairs instead of the downstairs. Do you have any pictures of the downstairs floor. I looked at your site, but couldn't find any. Have you done the downstairs floor yet? It would be very helpful for me to see. Nice job on the upstairs. Thanks.
I just put down some and I have spot where there was no way to get it completely level and now a couple boards have separated maybe 6 feet long it looks like a crack but it’s where the boards did not go completely together anyway to fix that?
Excellent video, although I got a bit of vertigo watching you on the edge of the loft. Get a handrail!! ; ) Really well done. Loved the cheater board. You make it look so easy. Hope I can get the hang of it before I tackle the next two rooms. Thanks a million. Great job!
Great video, but perhaps you should describe it as horizontal to the main lighting source. When you mention perpendicular and origin of light… well you could see how that could be confusing for some.
The lines should typically run along the path of light from a window. Think of T-square at the window with the T being a plank running perpendicular to the window wall. The board lines do run horizontally with the light beams from the window you are correct. Thx!
Great install. Don’t wait for your first corneal foreign body injury to start wearing safety glasses. Even if it doesn’t ruin your eyesight in that eye, it is one of the most painful things you will ever experience. Be a positive influence to your viewers.
@RidgeLife Can Lifeproof flooring be removed and reinstalled if I need to install extra padding underneath? Or better to take the loss and start with new flooring?
Tim you may want to use a scrap piece of product locked in when you are hammering the boards together. Especially around the door casings. I’ve installed flooring for 30 years and it’s the absolute worst when the locking mechanism sheers off or the edge gets damaged.
I just put down some and I have spot where there was no way to get it completely level and now a couple boards have separated maybe 6 feet long it looks like a crack but it’s where the boards did not go completely together anyway to fix that? I also used an extra sound dampening for luxury vinyl I’m sure you know it I’m talking about real thin roll comes in a roll
Just remember it does not always have to be 1/4 perfectly it can be 1/8 or 3/8 just as long as you know the baseboard or 1/4 your are installing will cover that gap. That goes for all the end cuts
What do you recommend for leveling LVP to next room?? Lifeproof only comes in 6,12, or 22mm. The drop off is 20mm meaning I can’t go over 12mm thickness . How do I transition the other 8mm?
You could use a transition piece to account for the difference in level or you could Sandown the transition and use leveling compound but not sure that would look very good.
Always under cut all your door jambs before you start laying any of the floor so you don’t have to stop and go and clean up again. It’s called prepping the job after you cut them all then you shop vac the entire floor then proceed to lay the floor and you won’t have to stop unless you want to take a break or have lunch. See how he had to stop undercut and clean up. You do all that at the beginning and get it out of the way.
Sir, how are those floors holding up? It's been almost a year since you installed them. I know Grandma Carrol lives there so she's probably very careful. Kitchen and restroom is what I'm interested in. Miss you Man!
Couple things... Do you need a vapor barrier if laying over concrete? Second-- can you just caulk with silicone beside a tub? I absolutely hate that stick it on quarter-round. It peels up in a years time.
Yes you can caulk instead but the other three sides need to ensure to have some room for expansion. Lifeproof doesn’t have as much as others for sure. The built in underlayment is good but you may want to refer to your actual product for concrete.
When installing the multi width planks (which only have 1 per box of the widest) how do you stagger? The row with the widest plank , the smaller width planks will have no stagger pattern all the way to the walls, is that correct??
As long as you leave a small space then put a trim piece at base of wall to cover like base shoe or 1/4 round. You may have to glue the trim if cant attach to the wall.
Lifeproof instructions say that T moldings are required in doorways and openings less than 36 inches or the warranty is void. Everyone lays it continuous.
Tim! I just got back from Home Depot, here in town. I asked 2 different floor people about that 1/4 round sticky tape. One guy helped me look around for it with no avail. The other guy looked at me like I was from another planet! Mind you this is up in Canada. Do you a specific name and/or a Home Depot product number?
@@RidgeLife, also when I was over at Home Depot there was some 3/8” round polystyrene that was mentioned in the instructions that came with my vinyl flooring. It explained to put it in between the flooring and the wall; then put 1/4 round casing on top of it with slight pressure and nail it to the wall or tall baseboard.🤔
I placed the link in the description and here is the link as well. Thanks. Flexible Quarter Round Molding Self Adhesive, 10 Feet Peel and Stick Flexible Trim Caulk Strip Molding Trim for Wall Edge, Cabinet Edge, Tile Edge, Ceilings Edge, Wall Corner and Countertops- amzn.to/3uXUS4u
@@RidgeLife i’m so confused why would anyone pick Engineer over real hardwood besides Price. You can’t refinish engineered floor. I installed plenty of hardwood floors and there are easy actual easier. I think the laminate and being more pliable and take more effort to line up the joints without breaking the tabs. I’m really struggling playing life down all over my house being at vinyl and it just feels cheap to mecompared to hardwood but I get it can’t put hardwood in the kitchen
@@efthimios we are talking interlocking flooring. Real hardwood needs completely different installation. Yes. It’s best long term though after initial cost.
Also with the 3 different size planks you can go big plank medium plank then small plank and repeat or just random lay it. Random lay it makes it look that much more natural. I’ve installed thousands of feet of this product since it has come out
Just like he under cut the door jambs he should have done the same thing to the pole he cut around. The handy dandy tool he is referring to is called a pull bar so if you need to get one you know what it’s called. A store employer is not going to know what a handy dandy tool is.
I don’t see the moisture barrier of 6 mil plastic recommended by Cali flooring for a moisture when installing their floor plank on top of a concrete slab like you are 🤔
And as far having your last board at least 10 inches is ridiculous that creates a pattern which you don’t want you want it as random as possible. I install this product everyday for Home Depot in Florida. Never ever use anything type of glue on this product unless your replacing a plank from damage. You will void the warranty. Trust me a small 2 inch piece at the end of a row will snap it tight and perfect it will not pop out at all unless one of the grooves are broke.
If you need to make a u or l cut and it’s to hard for you to scoar it use the multi tool to make the cut. Much easier and you don’t have to get up and down.
Did it get wet or moist? Sometimes temperature changed can cause issues. Let it stabilize first. Should snap into place fairly easily and use a rubber mallet if needed. Use a block to keep from damaging.
Video information make it look deceptively easy to install and panels are super durable...it is not and they are not. Video shows the host violently pounding away with both a rubber mallet and a regular hammer. We found that you will damage the locking mechanism if you treat it like that. we had to throw away 5 panels during installation in a 100 square foot bathroom. The video has one person doing the installation but use 2 so you can watch what the impact of installation of one panel does to the others.
Please don't use a regular hammer for pounding in your joints. Use a tool made for it. A regular hammer can leave terribly ugly hammer marks on your planks.
In many applications you start working in one corner, then down a hall and into a room where you have to work in the opposite direction. Watched the entire video and unfortunately you didn’t encounter that scenario
THis guy is NOT starting out the way Life Lock Says to Start,,,,,,, WHY???????????????? READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!! The FIRST TWO ROWS ARE DONE different then the rest of the project,,,,, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All these DIY people make these videos and are totally making it look harder than it really is. They did it once or twice and they want to make videos blows my mind. He’s been fussing with the first row for so long because he’s starting it all wrong. You also do not need any skill saw to cut this stuff. Just scoar it a few times with your knife and snap it. It does not have to be a perfectly straight cut because you will either be installing he’s baseboards or 1/4 to cover the expansion space
@@3rdGenFireChicken I’ve had so many ‘pros’ do crappy work cutting corners and doing bare minimum to make the most money. Almost always better to DIY if a person is capable.
@@RidgeLife I couldn’t agree with you more. I scratch my head when I see some so called professional installers. When I was taught flooring bin 1987 installing carpet my boss who taught me told me the most important thing about installing is do every install like it’s your own house. I have carried that into my business and my workers know that’s my main pet peeve.
Home Depot really sponsored a video where homeboy demonstrated how to cut flooring by flopping it on a ladder and free handing the dangling end with the skil saw over top of his leg with no safety protection. They really trying to thin the herd with these instructions.
The floor looks awesome! Great tips Tim. You forgot my wife's favorite tip for putting in flooring...Have the husband do it.
HAHA!!! Thx
It makes me happy you mentioned to clean up the mess made from cutting under the door jams because I've seen so many other videos not mentioning that and I'm like.. uh.. not only will that get in the way of the planks laying flat, but if that gets in your joints then you're gonna have separation later on so that's kinda important info to mention lol
Anyway, super informative video. I am saving this to watch as reference when I do my flooring soon. Wish me luck.
Good luck and thanks so much!
I think you could call this home..Amazing Space. That Lifeproof is Beauty.Lifting Everybuddy UP from MN
Thank you very much Mark. I love it!
Great video! I've done a half dozen or so hardwood floors and 3 vinyl plank, some tile and sheet vinyl. I still learned a couple of things here today, thank you.
WOW! Thanks!
Job Well done ! Just click your video and that was what i was looking for , where you worked around the
door joints . Thanks
My pleasure!
One of the best you tube video I've seen in a long time! Just picked up this exact floor for our Galley Kitchen. Thank you!
Thanks and good luck!
A respirator and framing tee you hold as a guild for your skill saw are nice additions to a great video
Thank you. Great tip!
The place is looking great!
Hope we get to come visit one day.
Thanks! You know it.
A bunch a great tips, Tim! I’ve been playing a drinking game while watching…every time you going near the edge and not falling over, I take a shot!😜
Haha! Thx
Great video! Please review how to to the top step transition ( waterfall, bullnose? ) and also what you did for the drop off where the banister is ( add mounding?) Thanks for any help!
They make a step transition piece. For the edge, we just trimmed over the gap like the walls. Thx!
Nice job Tim. Have a bless week
Thanks!
Looks FANTASTIC TIM. 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
That is a great tutorial on laying flooring Tim 🤙🏼😁👍🏼
Thanks brother! I'm hoping this one does good long term!!!
Thank you for the detailed information on laying floor that’s awesome Tim
My pleasure!
Greg & I laid that type of flooring in my current home and it was a lot of work. I really like it and want it in the new house, but idk if it is worth it if we have to put it down! You did a good job on this video and showing how to lay it.
Thank you! I don’t recommend the multiwidth but it does look nice! It’s a pain.
much easier than pretty much any other type of flooring though, whether it's nailing hardwood, setting tile, even just sheet flooring it's all harder pretty much.
That floor looks great ! I love those vinyl planks !
Thanks Syd. Yours looks great as well!!!
Why did you switch from mallet to hammer? Good jobs on all the special cuts!
The rubber mallet was a bit too big for the tamping block. I used it more for the flat ends and hammer for the block. Thx!
Excellent video! Enjoy the step-by-step, no rush, details!
I’m glad you liked it!
Darn. I wanted to see you do the flooring downstairs, as it's the same set up as our camp. And, I was questioning which way we should run our flooring, but you did the upstairs instead of the downstairs. Do you have any pictures of the downstairs floor. I looked at your site, but couldn't find any. Have you done the downstairs floor yet? It would be very helpful for me to see. Nice job on the upstairs. Thanks.
Oh yes. Started on front door side and same side with master bedroom. One solid floor through while downstairs! Thx!
@@RidgeLife Thank you
beautiful,thank you
Thank you too!
Looks great Tim! I love that kind of flooring!
Thank you!
I just put down some and I have spot where there was no way to get it completely level and now a couple boards have separated maybe 6 feet long it looks like a crack but it’s where the boards did not go completely together anyway to fix that?
Awesome job Tim! I’m impressed! Good video as well.👍🏻😎
Thank you sir!
Excellent video, although I got a bit of vertigo watching you on the edge of the loft. Get a handrail!! ; ) Really well done. Loved the cheater board. You make it look so easy. Hope I can get the hang of it before I tackle the next two rooms. Thanks a million. Great job!
Thanks!
Great video, but perhaps you should describe it as horizontal to the main lighting source. When you mention perpendicular and origin of light… well you could see how that could be confusing for some.
The lines should typically run along the path of light from a window. Think of T-square at the window with the T being a plank running perpendicular to the window wall. The board lines do run horizontally with the light beams from the window you are correct. Thx!
Great video can't go wrong with Vinyl Plank C'mon!!
Thanks brother!
What model of lifeproof floor is this? Burnt oak?
the Dooleys of Michigan Enjoyed
Thank you!
Great install. Don’t wait for your first corneal foreign body injury to start wearing safety glasses. Even if it doesn’t ruin your eyesight in that eye, it is one of the most painful things you will ever experience. Be a positive influence to your viewers.
Very true! I did that in a deck build. Ugh!
Beautiful flooring 🤟🏼
Thank you.
Had those "Safety Squints" ready. 😂
Ha!
I haven’t heard any mention of using silicone to caulk around the edges when installation is complete. Does that only need to be done in wet areas?
I’ve never caulked edges on flooring. If in wet location, wouldn’t hurt.
Awesome video 👍🏻
Thank you 👍
Great work
Thank you so much 😀
@@RidgeLife you're welcome sir
@@RidgeLife how are you doing
Hi there
@RidgeLife Can Lifeproof flooring be removed and reinstalled if I need to install extra padding underneath? Or better to take the loss and start with new flooring?
You can but extra padding will void the warranty.
Tim you may want to use a scrap piece of product locked in when you are hammering the boards together. Especially around the door casings. I’ve installed flooring for 30 years and it’s the absolute worst when the locking mechanism sheers off or the edge gets damaged.
Very true!
I just put down some and I have spot where there was no way to get it completely level and now a couple boards have separated maybe 6 feet long it looks like a crack but it’s where the boards did not go completely together anyway to fix that? I also used an extra sound dampening for luxury vinyl I’m sure you know it I’m talking about real thin roll comes in a roll
They say adding extra underlayment voids the warranty.
Try using duct tape and kicking the tape to lock it back in place and add some glue in crack.
Just remember it does not always have to be 1/4 perfectly it can be 1/8 or 3/8 just as long as you know the baseboard or 1/4 your are installing will cover that gap. That goes for all the end cuts
Very true. Thanks.
What do you recommend for leveling LVP to next room?? Lifeproof only comes in 6,12, or 22mm. The drop off is 20mm meaning I can’t go over 12mm thickness . How do I transition the other 8mm?
You could use a transition piece to account for the difference in level or you could Sandown the transition and use leveling compound but not sure that would look very good.
Always under cut all your door jambs before you start laying any of the floor so you don’t have to stop and go and clean up again. It’s called prepping the job after you cut them all then you shop vac the entire floor then proceed to lay the floor and you won’t have to stop unless you want to take a break or have lunch. See how he had to stop undercut and clean up. You do all that at the beginning and get it out of the way.
Great tip!
Looking good!
Thanks!
Sir, how are those floors holding up? It's been almost a year since you installed them. I know Grandma Carrol lives there so she's probably very careful. Kitchen and restroom is what I'm interested in. Miss you Man!
Not a scratch! She has three dogs too! Thx!
I have moulding around the entire basement, so what do I do regarding the 1/4" expansion consideration?
If the ‘moulding can’t be removed, add base shoe or quarter round moulding in front of that.
Couple things... Do you need a vapor barrier if laying over concrete? Second-- can you just caulk with silicone beside a tub? I absolutely hate that stick it on quarter-round. It peels up in a years time.
Yes you can caulk instead but the other three sides need to ensure to have some room for expansion. Lifeproof doesn’t have as much as others for sure. The built in underlayment is good but you may want to refer to your actual product for concrete.
When installing the multi width planks (which only have 1 per box of the widest) how do you stagger? The row with the widest plank , the smaller width planks will have no stagger pattern all the way to the walls, is that correct??
I open multiple boxes and separate by size and. Pattern. I stagger the widest and mixed up medium and small next to each other. Hope that helps.
Wow!! Very Nice 👌
Thanks for watching!
You did real good!!!
Thanks Lilah!
Good job 😆
Thanks!
Do you need to add additional underpayment? I’ve seen some videos that had ppl adding additional underlaying
No. This product comes with it and adding more voids the warranty.
Are the doors different heights in the first of the video?
Nope doors all the same height.
How do you install the vinyl plank against a tiled wall? Thanks
As long as you leave a small space then put a trim piece at base of wall to cover like base shoe or 1/4 round. You may have to glue the trim if cant attach to the wall.
Thx Tim for all the tips for laying the floor . It looks beautiful 💕💕
You are so welcome!
Lifeproof instructions say that T moldings are required in doorways and openings less than 36 inches or the warranty is void. Everyone lays it continuous.
Oh yeah!
Tim! I just got back from Home Depot, here in town. I asked 2 different floor people about that 1/4 round sticky tape. One guy helped me look around for it with no avail. The other guy looked at me like I was from another planet! Mind you this is up in Canada. Do you a specific name and/or a Home Depot product number?
We got it on Amazon I believe.
@@RidgeLife, also when I was over at Home Depot there was some 3/8” round polystyrene that was mentioned in the instructions that came with my vinyl flooring. It explained to put it in between the flooring and the wall; then put 1/4 round casing on top of it with slight pressure and nail it to the wall or tall baseboard.🤔
That is cool. Never saw that.
Where can I purchase the vinyl quarter?
I placed the link in the description and here is the link as well. Thanks.
Flexible Quarter Round Molding Self Adhesive, 10 Feet Peel and Stick Flexible Trim Caulk Strip Molding Trim for Wall Edge, Cabinet Edge, Tile Edge, Ceilings Edge, Wall Corner and Countertops- amzn.to/3uXUS4u
Help/ if Lifeproof 22mill vinyl or hybrid laminate better option ?
I prefer vinyl over laminate. Engineered hardwood is nice though over both!
@@RidgeLife i’m so confused why would anyone pick Engineer over real hardwood besides Price. You can’t refinish engineered floor. I installed plenty of hardwood floors and there are easy actual easier. I think the laminate and being more pliable and take more effort to line up the joints without breaking the tabs. I’m really struggling playing life down all over my house being at vinyl and it just feels cheap to mecompared to hardwood but I get it can’t put hardwood in the kitchen
@@efthimios we are talking interlocking flooring. Real hardwood needs completely different installation. Yes. It’s best long term though after initial cost.
he should have put a shim where 2 join meet. So when you pound the hammer it doesn't arch in since the wall may not be straight.
I used wall shims all around. Thx.
Why are you trying to snap your first row into place? What is it snapping into?
Not sure what you mean. You are correct there is only connections on the ends and back side of the first run.
@@RidgeLife it's free floating and doesn't snap into anything on the back side. Please help me understand
@@patrickcannady493 , he misspoke.
Also with the 3 different size planks you can go big plank medium plank then small plank and repeat or just random lay it. Random lay it makes it look that much more natural. I’ve installed thousands of feet of this product since it has come out
Hmm. That would be a TOTAL nightmare in my opinion!
@@RidgeLife not if you know what your doing.
@@3rdGenFireChicken hopefully those doing this themselves follow the mfg installation instructions.
Does Home Dipot sells the block?
I’m sure. Lowes does
Why do you need the 1/4 inch space on the edge? I Don't understand. We have not did our floors yet. Dont want yo mess it up. Want it to be right
It’s for expansion as it’s a floating floor so it doesn’t pop up
@@RidgeLife thanks.
The floor looks awesome.
When is liner required ?
Never with this product. It actually voids the warranty
@@RidgeLife awesome thank you !
Why not run the board across from wall to wall, like a boarder
You can but typical with sunlight.
Just like he under cut the door jambs he should have done the same thing to the pole he cut around. The handy dandy tool he is referring to is called a pull bar so if you need to get one you know what it’s called. A store employer is not going to know what a handy dandy tool is.
HA! I preferred not undercutting the poles myself but good suggestions for those that prefer to do so.
@@RidgeLife it’s a much cleaner look instead of installing trim around it
@@3rdGenFireChicken very true.
The one thing you also make sure to do when your installing make sure none of your short seams are closer than 4-5 inches apart
Thanks for stating that again for me. I didn't mention the exact inches apart to keep them.
I don’t see the moisture barrier of 6 mil plastic recommended by Cali flooring for a moisture when installing their floor plank on top of a concrete slab like you are 🤔
My flooring is not on concrete slab. It is conventional foundation with crawlspace.
Could have went the other way so it flows into the bathroom and closet, also his with the stairs.
Very true. You got pick your plan and stick with it.
And as far having your last board at least 10 inches is ridiculous that creates a pattern which you don’t want you want it as random as possible. I install this product everyday for Home Depot in Florida. Never ever use anything type of glue on this product unless your replacing a plank from damage. You will void the warranty. Trust me a small 2 inch piece at the end of a row will snap it tight and perfect it will not pop out at all unless one of the grooves are broke.
This is incorrect. Short pieces will separate on you and not be very stable. Read the mfg instructions.
@@RidgeLife ya you couldn’t be more wrong. Been installing this product for Home Depot since it has come out everyday. I have not had 1 issue.
@@3rdGenFireChicken again, please to all reading, follow the mfg installation instructions.
Who is J. Thomas Manger?
.
No idea.
I’d caution everyone to check the color and ensure there is a stair nose if you’re going to need one. I’m still trying to figure out what to do
Yeah we bought a stair nose but decided to just use a transition at the top.
If you need to make a u or l cut and it’s to hard for you to scoar it use the multi tool to make the cut. Much easier and you don’t have to get up and down.
Very true. Thanks.
Pretty sure you mean you’re running the boards parallel to the incoming light, not perpendicular.
Perpendicular to the light emitting wall is preferred.
.. I cannot get my life proof flooring to lock properly
Did it get wet or moist? Sometimes temperature changed can cause issues. Let it stabilize first. Should snap into place fairly easily and use a rubber mallet if needed. Use a block to keep from damaging.
At 4:44, "parallel", my friend.
Thanks!
Video information make it look deceptively easy to install and panels are super durable...it is not and they are not. Video shows the host violently pounding away with both a rubber mallet and a regular hammer. We found that you will damage the locking mechanism if you treat it like that. we had to throw away 5 panels during installation in a 100 square foot bathroom. The video has one person doing the installation but use 2 so you can watch what the impact of installation of one panel does to the others.
I have done many of these by myself. I use the tamping block between the edge and the hammer. No issues!
Please don't use a regular hammer for pounding in your joints. Use a tool made for it. A regular hammer can leave terribly ugly hammer marks on your planks.
I used the tamping block and end tool. A regular hammer can be used with them.
Oh you mean from above. Yes, a mallet is much better you are correct.
In many applications you start working in one corner, then down a hall and into a room where you have to work in the opposite direction. Watched the entire video and unfortunately you didn’t encounter that scenario
No I didn't. Thank you.
wuzheeeere
Howdy!
Did he just say he segregated them
I did!
Nice job, except your choice of hammer.
Ha! True!
Very true. Thx!
Very true. Thx!
Also he used a regular nail hammer 🤪 instead of rubber
I used both!
THis guy is NOT starting out the way Life Lock Says to Start,,,,,,, WHY???????????????? READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!! The FIRST TWO ROWS ARE DONE different then the rest of the project,,,,, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I followed the instructions and have done this many times. Please clarify what was wrong from your instructions?
All these DIY people make these videos and are totally making it look harder than it really is. They did it once or twice and they want to make videos blows my mind. He’s been fussing with the first row for so long because he’s starting it all wrong. You also do not need any skill saw to cut this stuff. Just scoar it a few times with your knife and snap it. It does not have to be a perfectly straight cut because you will either be installing he’s baseboards or 1/4 to cover the expansion space
Wow! That was rude. I have installed many of these type of flooring systems but am NOT a professional such as yourself.
@@RidgeLife exactly so I know what I’m talking about
@@3rdGenFireChicken I’ve had so many ‘pros’ do crappy work cutting corners and doing bare minimum to make the most money. Almost always better to DIY if a person is capable.
@@RidgeLife I couldn’t agree with you more. I scratch my head when I see some so called professional installers. When I was taught flooring bin 1987 installing carpet my boss who taught me told me the most important thing about installing is do every install like it’s your own house. I have carried that into my business and my workers know that’s my main pet peeve.
Very nice! Glad to see good work ethic out there.
Tim go get your ppe
Yes!
It’s far from awesome flooring. No mistakes can be made.
But it’s easy and lasts a very long time. Great for DIY!
"beautiful log home" 🤣😂🤣🤣😂 More like ugly, dark, and depressing. Build a German Huf Haus.
Sorry you don’t like it.
Home Depot really sponsored a video where homeboy demonstrated how to cut flooring by flopping it on a ladder and free handing the dangling end with the skil saw over top of his leg with no safety protection. They really trying to thin the herd with these instructions.
HAHA!!! I wish I was sponsored!
Then why do you use their logo? It’s very misleading.
It's not misleading. Lifeproof is only sold at Home Depot. The ones that are here for lifeproof will know. @@AdamusPrime76
And using a Lowe’s Kobalt saw😂
@@bobschroeder197😢
What model of lifeproof floor is this? Burnt oak?
What model of lifeproof floor is this? Burnt oak?
Don’t think so. Can you see it on the box in the video. Sorry.