100 YEAR OLD Forging hammer REBUILT and working again!!!!
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2025
- Feels good to get some hot steel back under the hammer.
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As always thanks for the support
CHEERS 
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Top job, great to see that hammer evolve from a sort of Mad Max freak show to a controllable usable tool. Films are getting noticably more polished as well, must be a lot of effort but well worth it.
Fantastic old machine and great to see it getting a new lease of life! Glad I’ve found your channel just the sort of stuff I want to watch. Thank you.
You got a workout with the pulley ! look forward to see you make some steam engine parts with the hammer. Thanks for this weeks update. Brian from South Yorkshire.
Bloody brilliant!
Nice job Norman, takes me back to my days in the blacksmith shop at Snowdown Colliery
@@Gary.gspp1960 I’m sure you could learn me a thing or two. I would have liked to have seen your shop in action!! Cheers
Another good job that will last for years
spot on job best youtube channal doing this type of work norman
Thanks pete 👍
Love the advert coming in when the door closed. Proper arty editing that ! Must have been a proper hard job using one of those all day to make connecting rods at Swindon.
What a tool!! Good for making matchwood!
Phil
Does that bush taper down to a Mohawk? 😂✌️
Thanks!
Thanks Terry I appreciate the donation
Can you forge a paperclip with it? 📎
Great hammer, where is your accent from im always trying to defferentiate the different English accents
@@jblueforge3131 It’s what’s know as the Bristolian accent
Love it!
But out of interest, why didn’t you chose to make the pulley or the lock? I’ve seen you make way more complex stuff than that for Lorren
@@Nick-pr5gw Mainly time involved but also The pulley finished was less than I could buy the material from.
With access to all that equipment, have you ever thought about building your own engine?, If I had a lathe and just a decent drill press id give it a try.. I would like to build a modernized replica of a opposed cylinder oil engine . Cast from aluminum. With a 8" bore and 12" stroke , definitely never see over 800-1000;rpm normal operating speed around 200-250 to 400 peak. Using multiple 10 HP Chinese injectors and pumps. 2-3 per cylinder, with a hemisphere dish piston with cooling fins milled into the back side of it. With a 1/16" nozzle squirting oil on the back of the piston, the .200"-.300" fins 1/8" thick. Getting oil squirt from the road a large squirter with it's own pump the rod having a 3/16"-1/4" steel tube silver soldered to the rod to send oil from the big end to slightly smaller end. A roughly 3" main bearing, and a roughly 2" piston pin with a brass bushing in the rod and piston 2mm thick after reaming and hone to fit. A 1.975"+/- pin , with 0.6 mm deep oil grooves in the bushings, 1.5-2 mm wide. To be certain they are oiling 100%.:the rod having a .020" relief milled on each rod .25" end mill to allow oil to squirt from the sides of the rod to spray the piston also possibly having a .030" hole in the top of the rod. A 12" x 2" nearly solid steel/ iron flywheel on the "front" side of the engine. With a 14"-16" 4.5" thick nearly solid flywheel on the working side. With a 1" shaft to allow pulleys, a 8" 6 v belt pulley , with a bracket on the head allowing a jack shaft, allowing a bearing pulley on the crank shaft. With allowing the jack shaft pulley a 8" spun pulley, the is attached to a 16" pulley that drives a 4"- 6" pulley with 4-6 v belt pulleys 12" diameter, allowing a 300 rpm engine to have a output pulley spinning possibly 3000 rpm , at the crank output, (not the crank RPM.) To allow a alternator to be spun at maximum rpm. About 10-12k rpm alternator shaft speed, max being roughly 18-20k RPM. 6k engine rpm, with a 3:1 over drive. 6x3= 18k RPM , so an alternator can easily spin 20k,, possible to see 25k. Make intake valves from 3" stainless bar stock, about 1/2" thick drilled 3/8" deep and threaded with 7/16" fine thread , with a 5/8" rod require the disc to be 350°-400° f to screw on, after tight and cool. Mill a 1/8" wide groove to 7/16 diameter at the area where the disc screws to the rod. Heat to 400°, and Tig weld the gap. Adding material around the disc. Then mill to a valve shape, and turn the rod to
.500" and grind between centers to around .450"-.475 depend on how straight. Make 18° locks and retainers to fit inside a .375" diameter groove
.125" -.150" tall groove with a outer diameter .620" and a taper of about 18° .620" (+/- .005") with a retainer from a 1045? Steel with a .750"-.800" outer groove diameter, from .625" thick steel thin one side to .200" thick , leaving a .760 " diameter in zhr center then the opposite side a
.500" hole hone to valve diameter, and counter sink a hole to fit the locks / keepers. Cuz the ring to be the keeper with a thin blade . Use a 18° tapered reamer to make the .500" hole fit the tapered locks , put the retainer on the valve stem. Place the locks in the groove on the top of the valve, pull the retainer up. The locks should fit with about .010" of the locks above the retainer, and about .005" clearance from retainer to valve. No was should the valve pull off. It should hold 3000 lbs if loaded properly, and should hold 5000lbs the more weight , the more the locks squeeze the valve. It should hold the 150lbs seat pressure, band 300 nose pressure of the spring easily. With the valve stem being about 6"-8" long. With a .700" diameter bronze valve guide. About 3.125"-3.300" long. With the top having a .080"
.750" diameter,
.500" from the top end. Keeping the guide from falling in the hole. Use hydraulic cylinder rod to make valve seats . If possible, a 2.85" valve using a 3" rod, about .375" thick, maybe .350" having slight taper on about .015-
.020" of the seat to allow a .005" -
.007" press fit. Maybe a -50°f seat pressed into a 250°-275° f, head. Using a 60lbs pressure to push it in maybe have a
.003" groove .005" wide in the center of the seat, with a
.004" wide tongue to fit that groove heated allowing them to press in. Once together the temperature differences will not be enough to allow the seat to fall out. Cut a 3 angle vj.
then the crank made from cast steel parts with journals pressed in. The sleeves cast from iron pressed into aluminum with a 20 mm water jacket around the cylinder, the cylinders bolt to the crank case. Using 6, 1/2" studs the main webbing and cylinder deck being 1" minimum thickness. The head bring 1" thick with a .500" water jacket over the cylinder and exhaust port. The ports exiting about 2.5" from the valve spring . The valve covers having a opening for the intake and exhaust
With . Long 1" aluminum tubing as pushrods with steel tips pressed in. Nylon guide plate bushings possibly having a thin steel wear sleeves on the pushrods. Being about 16" long. On a cam with 2" diameter lifters, with a hollow center with an aluminum slug pressed in with 1/4" holes around a .500" center hole. .600" deep the lifter bring 2.35" tall. The holy aluminum is to reduce weight, the steel center is for wear resistance. A . 500" x . 500" pin with a . 375" dimple in the center made from a hard tool steel. The .150 thick steel outer, attached to the .200" thick bottom with a dished shape the sides .020" shorter than the center heat treated and hard as a good wrench. The camshaft made from 3"bar slices pressed on a 1"; shaft, 4 lobes , 3 bearing journals. And a oil pump driven from one end, and the shaft being driven from the other
Using a SBC V8 timing set. With both pistons up at the same time. A single lobe can activate a set of points. Using a mosfet switch with two coils would work for a gas engine, diesel using the 20:1-22:1 compression ratio to ignite the fuel being injected. The would be points lobe is going to be two sets of 3-4 lobes on a box driven by the cam. The shaft inside operating the injector for the diesel engine. Possibly having
.030"-.040" additional lift. And about 5-10° additional duration at .050" to get more fuel from the pump. Maybe 15 hp per injector. If it gets 45 ho per cylinder I'd be amazed. With a amr500 blower per cylinder it may do it. A 10-12" stroke with 8" bore, is far from a small engine. The rpm is hurting HP
It may be , 25-30 HP with boost at 800 RPM with 500 ftlb tq. Basically it's going to turn that 600-800 RPM no matter what you connect to it. It may not rev fast but it will not slow down . Sorry to ramble and dream. Have an awesome day🎉 ✌️
@@jamest.5001 I’ve never wanted to. I’ve plenty of projects I want to get done but building an engine isn’t one. You can pick lathes up pretty cheep if you keep looking. Get one bought and make a start 👍
Bugger that hammer jumps!🫣😆👌still looks fairly hard to control? Or is that just me lol
@@casto- still learning. It’s working as intended now. She sure does dance about