Here are links to the things you need/want to make this job go smoothly for your convenience. MA pump upgrade kit here → amzn.to/2i5W1Ss my favorite gasket maker for this here → amzn.to/2hkTC5z If you need a whole new tail half, I found you one here → amzn.to/2hCgXDE Boelube tub → amzn.to/2yLIJ41 Boelube squirt bottle → amzn.to/2hwOqf6
I just disassembled my NP149 transfer case. The input shaft seal is a lot easier to knock out from inside of the case by putting a flat head screwdriver in the grove of the seal and hammering it out. Thank you for sharing your experience and not skipping anything. Your video gave me confidence to tackle my project.
Your simple and patient approach is appreciated. It gives confidence for someone who is not savvy in these things. I can carry a conversation and ask better questions with the mechanic who will be doing the work. That alone is valuable to me.
Very well done Video. Seems you have a gift for teaching. My family has 4 GM Vehicles that use either the 240 or 260 Series Transfer Cases all with 180K + mileage and this Video will be an excellent reference. Thanks for doing it!
DID this last winter on my 04 Chevy Tahoe with a NP246 transfer case (Same Pump upgrade kit from Merchant Automotive). I removed it checked it out and the Dorman Rear case half (aftermarket) has some slight differences. I took the case open to my local transmission shop and he recommended to always have a shop go through it and check all parts, bearings, clutch pack, etc. They did notice wear on my clutch pack at 100k miles so they replaced it since they had it apart. They also did say not to use the Auto part of the 4 wheel drive but rather just lock it in 4 hi by pressing the button as this will save wear on the clutch. Regarding that clip you cake clamp if you don't have the pliers for it to crimp them don't worry as you can use a hose clamp or do as I did and just pull the rubber boot back over and it isn't going anywhere as the clamp is kind of useless. When you have it apart or if you have a vibration at highway speeds you can always remove the drive shaft and check the U-joint very thoroughly as 8 months before I had to do the transfer case pump upgrade kit I had to replace both of the U-joints as they were the original U-joints with about 95,000 miles on them. They were rusting. If you're just replacing U-joints it's very highly advised if you have the plastic holding the caps in that has to be heated out that you take the driveshaft 2 a Driveline service shop and have them balance the drive shaft. The reason I say this is when they inject the plastic to set those caps in place @ factory there can be a difference and how that sits in there from one vehicle to the next or from how the original U joints are in there and the replacement ones sit in there. I found out about how they sit in there due to a drive shaft they had taken off of a vehicle at the Driveline service shop and actually gave the customer completely new driveshaft if he would let them keep his severely offset one as an example. It goes to show how out of balance it can be. Once I had that drive shaft balanced the vehicle rode smoother. I then started noticing my transfer case was leaking on the back 7-8 months later. One thing about them GM transfer cases is that they are more easier to diagnose than one thinks as they don't generally have a lot of trouble. I did get a "service 4WD" message in the dash cluster. If you hook up a scan tool that has bi-directional capability you can go in and actually the shift motor for diagnostics if necessary. Anyways I was able to figure out that the transfer case shift motor was shot as well. I don't tow much but I do use the 4 wheel drive every winter at least a few times or more. Hope some of this extra information was able to help you and your viewers especially regarding the clutch pack, the U Joint issues and making sure you balance the drive shaft after replacing U joints. By the way this is my first time watching your Channel because I saw the video highlight and I was seeing if you had went through the process that I did for putting that pump in. I subscribe to the channel so yes I did like the videos for a first time viewer.
Nitwit, PUT THE DRILL DOWN! Thx for the tip with the Boe-Lube. Got one back for you. Regarding the wire brush wheel on your bench grinder: Scotch-Brite(TM) Multi-Finishing Wheel, Medium. You will throw away the wire brush wheel after using it. Pop that into Amazon or whatever they call that in Canada :). It's a lil salty ~45 USD. But they last a long, long time. It takes off the rust, junk, etc and smooths the surface to a satin finish. Very little metal removed! They also make a fine and extra fine if you want to polish the surface. Cheers MJ
What a lot of people don't realize is as long as there are no interruptions in the sealant (and no surface damage) barely any is needed to do the job. I can't tell you how many times I've seen passages, pumps and screens blocked with the great gobs of sealant people use. You're only spanning the gap of two flat surfaces that are basically in direct contact with each other.
Brian your wasting your teaching talents with Law Enforcment but your surely making it up with your YT Channel...Your 2 part video helped Tremendously. I'm retired LEO/Paramedic. But always loved wrenching on my chevy's 27 in my family. My 99 GMC 233000k and still purring. Thx very much
I'd emphasize cleaning the case halves sealing surfaces, because many people don't clean them well enough, and even if the the case doesn't leak, bits of sealant break loose and end up in the pump and pickup. I use white lint free towels and acetone to clean the case. Wipe / wipe / wipe until the towels are no longer removing residue. The acetone will pull oil out of the aluminum, or magnesium, that you can't even see, or feel. Especially so with magnesium, because it's a more porous material. That oil that's entrained into the case material, will keep your sealant from REALLY bonding the halves together. Also even though there's dowel locator pins, that case does flex, ever so slightly, and particularly if you don't have a top notch sealant bonding job. Not only will it end up leaking eventually, but the cases sealing surfaces will wear on each other. Particularly where the dowels are located at..... which is part of the reason the cases separated so easily. You do yourself and your customer a favor by bonding those case halves SO well, that they act act as one part, for the purpose of sharing the loads. Liberal use of the acetone is a winner. It'll evaporate completely and pull oil out of the metal. Brake cleaner, by comparison, actually leaves a by-product on the surface. It's great for brakes, but I definitely don't use it for any type of gear boxes, transmissions, or transfer cases. Those cases SHOULD BE a bitch to separate at next overhaul time. If they are, it was correctly seal bonded, and you know those two case halves, acted as one.
I was wondering the same thing about the shaft rotation, but it will probably be negligible. And yes I have wiggled a drill bit to get the hole where I need it. Great video, that wrangler at the end has some get up.
Watching you tap the drive shaft if you would have started 90 degrees out there would have been more room to rotate your tap handle because of the yoke arms were in your way. I am rebuilding a found on road dead 99 Yukon and your videos are a great help.
From what I’ve looked up, the slip yoke portion is lubricated from the transfer case fluid and putting grease onto the splines won’t cure the problem but also force grease into your transfer case. I’ve seen the repair recommended on 2wd units, but not 4wd. Thoughts?
I for the life of me could not get the bearing to release from the rear of the case. I read on a forum where a guy accidently broke an ear off the clip so he had to yank the other end with a vice grip. I suspected my case was bad since the NP261 ran nearly dry and the tail bushing worked it's way out. I'm getting an aluminum case. My question is that once I got it apart I noticed a shoulder on the bore for the tail bearing. Isn't a straight machined hole? I'm guessing I was hung up on the shoulder that formed in the magnesium. I used a Dremel to remove an ear off the clip so that I could pull it out. again
While the case he is working on may have been opened up before, the comment about the black silicone is not necessarily true. My case was sealed with black sealer, I bought the truck new with 6 miles on the clock. The t case has never been opened up until I did it. Some of these cases were put together with black sealer.
On a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500, does transfer case oil lubricate the drive shaft yoke? Or do I need to remove drive line and grease the yoke???? Put another way, if I grease the yoke on drive shaft, will the grease enter the T-case, and contaminate the transfer case oil?
The way you showed how that internal clip works will help a lot of people who try this. I remember a few minutes of head scratching at that point. You've raised the bar again. Kinda funny you use that seal puller to install the new seal rather than pull the old. Do you avoid using it because it tends to mar the surface of the shaft?
Hey bud, would you have any idea while driving, my transmission spins freely (like it goes into neutral) randomly while driving at normal speeds? I can let off the pedal and it goes back into gear and I can keep going.
I can't seem to find a kit for my 5.7 vortec, however there are several for the 5.3 and 6.0, do you know if these bearings and seals differ in the 246 transferase? Seems like they would all be the same.
Hey Brian I love your videos on YT. I have a 2003 Silverado SS pickup with the NP149 AWD transfer case that now when I drive it there is a noise that sounds to me like the chain is slipping. It is a clunking sound that is louder as I hit the gas pedal harder. Or when I punch it on take off!!! I can not find any videos on rebuild or repair for the NP149 Transfer case. Tell me if it is the same procedure as an NP263? Also do you have any other ideas what could be my noise problem. The truck has 200,000 miles on it and just recently started this problem. I hope you get this message and have some good advice. Thanks David
Thanks Brian! Your DIY videos are excellent. If you get the opportunity, could you do a NP243C transfer case rebuild? I found Broncocarl92's two part video, but but there's little explanation of the inner workings, tips or tricks, there are few omissions in all the steps, and half the video is looking at the back of his arm so you can't always see what he's doing. I am pretty sure these TCs don't need the MA pump upgrade because it's designed differently and the case is aluminum, so it's harder than the magnesium cases.
Very good knowledge... one question, on clutch friction plates there should be a kind of play? Between plates and front shaft the one came out of transmission?
I can’t get the output shaft bearing to line up during reassembly of my mp1625, it is a little too low (it is same set up as this one but instead of oval there is two holes to access the clip) … any suggestions would be amazing
Great video! I have a question though.. I have an 04 Colorado that makes a winding noise when I coast, it sounds like it might be the pump rub. Am I correct? As soon as I tap the gas the noise goes away.
nice video. i thought that you're not supposed to grease the output shaft on a 4x4 only 2wd... maybe if you use oil instead of transmission fluid in the case. grease and tranny fluid don't mix is what i have read. The grease can seep into the transfer case is also what i have read. is that wrong?
I have the Harbor Freight drill set... and they will most definitely drill thru hardened steel without lube(I use mine on high carbon and stainless). You just need the”Cobalt”drills, and to not get impatient. That HSS, Black Oxide or Titanium crap no matter what brand you get are useless, unless you a woodworker lol!
I`m working on a 2001 siera with a 246 case but the front drive shaft will not turn in 2wd when parked. I even took the encoder motor off and turned the shaft with a 14mm wrench to all positions.. I have a 99 and a 07 and my brother has an 05 and all of them do turn.
can you tell me what that tranfer case is called for a 2008 chevy silverado. Cant find it anywhere on the interent. Got everything tore down but cant seem to get the main big shaft out of it. First time ever doing it. Help Plz.
Oval holes are normal even if you didn't wiggle the drill. Careful that you don't jack the engine forward by hydraulic pressure from the grease gun to make the drive shaft longer.
Thankyou very much for this information. I really do appreciate it. liked and subscribed. In the future though you can use precise technical language when you are "wiggling" the drill bit. Next time just say you are going to "waller" it out. I learned this is the technical institute of backwoods Kentucky state tech.
My front drive shaft wont disengage in 2hi. I replace the actuator. And stile not disengage. Can there be and internal damage to the transfer that would cause the front drive shaft not to disengage in any position?
I'm in Menifee and I have a crunching sound in the transfer case I think I might have broke the gear or the belts chain. Question, I think four words I was engaged did not disengage while traveling 80 miles an hour might have broken it is that possible?
on my 246 auto track transfer case i can move the rear output shaft in and out slightly after i remove the drive shaft. is this normal? I really have to push firmly with my thumb to get it to move and it's not much.
Your link for the " gasket maker" is a mechanical gun, and not the actual sealant. You should probably update that link to something that people will want to use to make a gasket.
Ohh snap my home town Elsinore, you were off highway 74 by the bar look out point.. You a local? Here I am thinking you from another state.. Cool good video thanks.
So you pumped grease into your transfer case. You didn't need to put in a grease zert. The rear driveshaft slip yoke is lubricated with the fluid you put in the transfer case.
Thank you! I was thinking about you while welding up a new coupler to my little trailer. Do you keep extra cylinders on hand so you have a back up? How low do you let a tank get in p.s.i.'s before you replace it or swap it?
I usually have 3 Argons and reorder when 1 is left. I rent the cylinders so I swap them out when the flow meter drops below 20cfm. Normal is 25-30. They purge and test them for purity so no worry's.
Here are links to the things you need/want to make this job go smoothly for your convenience.
MA pump upgrade kit here → amzn.to/2i5W1Ss
my favorite gasket maker for this here → amzn.to/2hkTC5z
If you need a whole new tail half, I found you one here → amzn.to/2hCgXDE
Boelube tub → amzn.to/2yLIJ41
Boelube squirt bottle → amzn.to/2hwOqf6
briansmobile1 thanks for the helpful videos 👍
The "gasket maker" link is just for the gun and not for the actual sealant.
Ok
I just disassembled my NP149 transfer case. The input shaft seal is a lot easier to knock out from inside of the case by putting a flat head screwdriver in the grove of the seal and hammering it out.
Thank you for sharing your experience and not skipping anything. Your video gave me confidence to tackle my project.
47 Years and I’d like to say your Dad should be proud as hell. Thank you great instruction. From a former back of the class graduate.
Your simple and patient approach is appreciated. It gives confidence for someone who is not savvy in these things. I can carry a conversation and ask better questions with the mechanic who will be doing the work. That alone is valuable to me.
Very well done Video. Seems you have a gift for teaching. My family has 4 GM Vehicles that use either the 240 or 260 Series Transfer Cases all with 180K + mileage and this Video will be an excellent reference. Thanks for doing it!
Great video. Down to earth rather than the simplistic approach of most manuals.
Enjoyed your video. I like the real world attitude. Don't stop!
DID this last winter on my 04 Chevy Tahoe with a NP246 transfer case (Same Pump upgrade kit from Merchant Automotive). I removed it checked it out and the Dorman Rear case half (aftermarket) has some slight differences. I took the case open to my local transmission shop and he recommended to always have a shop go through it and check all parts, bearings, clutch pack, etc. They did notice wear on my clutch pack at 100k miles so they replaced it since they had it apart. They also did say not to use the Auto part of the 4 wheel drive but rather just lock it in 4 hi by pressing the button as this will save wear on the clutch.
Regarding that clip you cake clamp if you don't have the pliers for it to crimp them don't worry as you can use a hose clamp or do as I did and just pull the rubber boot back over and it isn't going anywhere as the clamp is kind of useless.
When you have it apart or if you have a vibration at highway speeds you can always remove the drive shaft and check the U-joint very thoroughly as 8 months before I had to do the transfer case pump upgrade kit I had to replace both of the U-joints as they were the original U-joints with about 95,000 miles on them.
They were rusting. If you're just replacing U-joints it's very highly advised if you have the plastic holding the caps in that has to be heated out that you take the driveshaft 2 a Driveline service shop and have them balance the drive shaft.
The reason I say this is when they inject the plastic to set those caps in place @ factory there can be a difference and how that sits in there from one vehicle to the next or from how the original U joints are in there and the replacement ones sit in there.
I found out about how they sit in there due to a drive shaft they had taken off of a vehicle at the Driveline service shop and actually gave the customer completely new driveshaft if he would let them keep his severely offset one as an example. It goes to show how out of balance it can be.
Once I had that drive shaft balanced the vehicle rode smoother.
I then started noticing my transfer case was leaking on the back 7-8 months later. One thing about them GM transfer cases is that they are more easier to diagnose than one thinks as they don't generally have a lot of trouble.
I did get a "service 4WD" message in the dash cluster.
If you hook up a scan tool that has bi-directional capability you can go in and actually the shift motor for diagnostics if necessary. Anyways I was able to figure out that the transfer case shift motor was shot as well. I don't tow much but I do use the 4 wheel drive every winter at least a few times or more.
Hope some of this extra information was able to help you and your viewers especially regarding the clutch pack, the U Joint issues and making sure you balance the drive shaft after replacing U joints.
By the way this is my first time watching your Channel because I saw the video highlight and I was seeing if you had went through the process that I did for putting that pump in.
I subscribe to the channel so yes I did like the videos for a first time viewer.
Wow! Thanks Dale!
Underrated comment
Excellent video. I never would have been able to rebuild my t case without it.
Nitwit, PUT THE DRILL DOWN!
Thx for the tip with the Boe-Lube.
Got one back for you. Regarding the wire brush wheel on your bench grinder: Scotch-Brite(TM) Multi-Finishing Wheel, Medium.
You will throw away the wire brush wheel after using it.
Pop that into Amazon or whatever they call that in Canada :). It's a lil salty ~45 USD. But they last a long, long time. It takes off the rust,
junk, etc and smooths the surface to a satin finish. Very little metal removed! They also make a fine and extra fine if you want to polish
the surface.
Cheers
MJ
What a lot of people don't realize is as long as there are no interruptions in the sealant (and no surface damage) barely any is needed to do the job. I can't tell you how many times I've seen passages, pumps and screens blocked with the great gobs of sealant people use. You're only spanning the gap of two flat surfaces that are basically in direct contact with each other.
Brian your wasting your teaching talents with Law Enforcment but your surely making it up with your YT Channel...Your 2 part video helped Tremendously. I'm retired LEO/Paramedic. But always loved wrenching on my chevy's 27 in my family. My 99 GMC 233000k and still purring. Thx very much
Great job Brian. STAY SAFE!!
I'd emphasize cleaning the case halves sealing surfaces, because many people don't clean them well enough, and even if the the case doesn't leak, bits of sealant break loose and end up in the pump and pickup. I use white lint free towels and acetone to clean the case. Wipe / wipe / wipe until the towels are no longer removing residue. The acetone will pull oil out of the aluminum, or magnesium, that you can't even see, or feel. Especially so with magnesium, because it's a more porous material. That oil that's entrained into the case material, will keep your sealant from REALLY bonding the halves together. Also even though there's dowel locator pins, that case does flex, ever so slightly, and particularly if you don't have a top notch sealant bonding job. Not only will it end up leaking eventually, but the cases sealing surfaces will wear on each other. Particularly where the dowels are located at..... which is part of the reason the cases separated so easily. You do yourself and your customer a favor by bonding those case halves SO well, that they act act as one part, for the purpose of sharing the loads. Liberal use of the acetone is a winner. It'll evaporate completely and pull oil out of the metal. Brake cleaner, by comparison, actually leaves a by-product on the surface. It's great for brakes, but I definitely don't use it for any type of gear boxes, transmissions, or transfer cases. Those cases SHOULD BE a bitch to separate at next overhaul time. If they are, it was correctly seal bonded, and you know those two case halves, acted as one.
That's some sound advice Let it Rest. Thanks for looking out for us!
Just changed that front output seal on the truck. What a PITA!
Great job and very well explained, thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. That helps a lot.
good job Brian this is the way it should be done, show good way and the hard thing as well.
Great tips, and will come in handy when I get ready to overhaul my transfer case in a Z71 silverado 1999 pushing 500000 miles. BR549, DEER PARK TEXAS.
Hello again Brian. I hope your shop build is coming along. Now back to the video... Great tips and nice road footage.
Hey man, thanks-still stuck till next week- then things can cruise.
Nice video, thanks for all the helpful info. I caught your paragliding reference at the end... I fly too. One of the most fun things in the world!
I was wondering the same thing about the shaft rotation, but it will probably be negligible. And yes I have wiggled a drill bit to get the hole where I need it. Great video, that wrangler at the end has some get up.
Thanks for the great how to!! Putting yourself out there is a great help.
Good video, I have to do my TC on a 2004 Chevy and this will help me out big time.
Watching you tap the drive shaft if you would have started 90 degrees out there would have been more room to rotate your tap handle because of the yoke arms were in your way. I am rebuilding a found on road dead 99 Yukon and your videos are a great help.
I hardly ever comment on anything but this is video is excellent. Keep up the good work.
Your videos are very enjoyable to watch 😂
Thanks for the write-up, you reminded me I still need to get this done on mine, glad I waited now.
I really like your videos brother. I have learned a ton from you. Keep up the great work man.
From what I’ve looked up, the slip yoke portion is lubricated from the transfer case fluid and putting grease onto the splines won’t cure the problem but also force grease into your transfer case. I’ve seen the repair recommended on 2wd units, but not 4wd. Thoughts?
I for the life of me could not get the bearing to release from the rear of the case. I read on a forum where a guy accidently broke an ear off the clip so he had to yank the other end with a vice grip. I suspected my case was bad since the NP261 ran nearly dry and the tail bushing worked it's way out. I'm getting an aluminum case. My question is that once I got it apart I noticed a shoulder on the bore for the tail bearing. Isn't a straight machined hole? I'm guessing I was hung up on the shoulder that formed in the magnesium. I used a Dremel to remove an ear off the clip so that I could pull it out. again
We love it when you show us stuff other people don't ;-)
you are the man Brian! Wish you were my neighbor...
While the case he is working on may have been opened up before, the comment about the black silicone is not necessarily true. My case was sealed with black sealer, I bought the truck new with 6 miles on the clock. The t case has never been opened up until I did it. Some of these cases were put together with black sealer.
Those little Dremel tools are just awesome small tools - use them for cutting - finishing - drilling - etc - great invention - not cheap
Dremel + flap wheel FTW.
Stay gold.
Thanks for doing what you do!
Great video Brian. I use Boelube too and its important not to breathe the the fumes that results from the friction, very bad for the lungs.
an amazing good quality sealant is yamabond 4. (service manual calls for it) we use it on all yamaha engine halves. it's basically threebond 1215.
Honda makes a similar sealant they use on clutch covers and case halves for ATVs, great stuff, super thin coating will seal anything.
Great video man!
Love your sense of humor.
What's with the 75 dislikes?? People are weird.
On a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500, does transfer case oil lubricate the drive shaft yoke? Or do I need to remove drive line and grease the yoke????
Put another way, if I grease the yoke on drive shaft, will the grease enter the T-case, and contaminate the transfer case oil?
The way you showed how that internal clip works will help a lot of people who try this. I remember a few minutes of head scratching at that point. You've raised the bar again. Kinda funny you use that seal puller to install the new seal rather than pull the old. Do you avoid using it because it tends to mar the surface of the shaft?
Great question. I go to it 1st most of the time. These seals are just too big and too stuck for it to work at all.
Hey bud, would you have any idea while driving, my transmission spins freely (like it goes into neutral) randomly while driving at normal speeds? I can let off the pedal and it goes back into gear and I can keep going.
Quick question of the transfer case for these trucks if it grenades inside will the truck neutralize?
Had to fix mine with j and b weld. Worked great.
I can't seem to find a kit for my 5.7 vortec, however there are several for the 5.3 and 6.0, do you know if these bearings and seals differ in the 246 transferase? Seems like they would all be the same.
Hey Brian I love your videos on YT. I have a 2003 Silverado SS pickup with the NP149 AWD transfer case that now when I drive it there is a noise that sounds to me like the chain is slipping. It is a clunking sound that is louder as I hit the gas pedal harder. Or when I punch it on take off!!! I can not find any videos on rebuild or repair for the NP149 Transfer case. Tell me if it is the same procedure as an NP263? Also do you have any other ideas what could be my noise problem. The truck has 200,000 miles on it and just recently started this problem. I hope you get this message and have some good advice. Thanks David
Question I have a 4L80e in my 1999 Chevy dually will my transfer case fit on the 2006 Allison 1000 trans?
Thanks Brian! Your DIY videos are excellent. If you get the opportunity, could you do a NP243C transfer case rebuild? I found Broncocarl92's two part video, but but there's little explanation of the inner workings, tips or tricks, there are few omissions in all the steps, and half the video is looking at the back of his arm so you can't always see what he's doing. I am pretty sure these TCs don't need the MA pump upgrade because it's designed differently and the case is aluminum, so it's harder than the magnesium cases.
I like the Lake Elsinore stuff at the end toward the end of Ortega Highway.
i bought the actual Kent-Moore seal driver for that front output seal, it was like $300 Canadian but it has paid for itself.
Friend of mine uses atf in the trasfer case, I use the smurf juice. I was wondering what your thoughts are as atf is way cheaper
Very good knowledge... one question, on clutch friction plates there should be a kind of play? Between plates and front shaft the one came out of transmission?
Super informative and very entertaining, I will be referring you for all of my chevy needs lol
Great video! Thanks!
Great instruction. Thankyou.
I can’t get the output shaft bearing to line up during reassembly of my mp1625, it is a little too low (it is same set up as this one but instead of oval there is two holes to access the clip) … any suggestions would be amazing
My transfer case blew. Np 263. 2005. 1500 for a used one so ill try to rebuild it. Do i need any special pullers or anything? Thanks.
Great detail thankyou!
Hi from Alberta, I have a 2009 Escalade ext awd, I have to sun gears seems like only 1 will fit at a time is there a trick to get the suns on.?
Great video! I have a question though.. I have an 04 Colorado that makes a winding noise when I coast, it sounds like it might be the pump rub. Am I correct? As soon as I tap the gas the noise goes away.
If you swap the magnesium casing out to aluminum, do you really need the merchant pump?
Looks like a nice paragliding spot if there's lz options on top or at the bottom
How do you get the case halves back together fully i already got the clip back on and there's a 1/4 inch Gap
nice video. i thought that you're not supposed to grease the output shaft on a 4x4 only 2wd... maybe if you use oil instead of transmission fluid in the case. grease and tranny fluid don't mix is what i have read. The grease can seep into the transfer case is also what i have read. is that wrong?
Awesome Brian, please leave the inserts up a bit longer, I am an old get and a bit slow. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Excellent videos. I am now a fan!
My case has 3 sensors, one of them has a purple keyed two pin sensor. I forgot where that one goes. Would you happen to know?
Ty for the video. Do u know how to stop the output shaft wear?
I think I need to order some Boelube....great video!
Link to your recommended CV boot clamp tool, please!
How common is it for the main tail bearing to be so worn that it causes the reluctor ring to wipe out both VSS sensors?
I have the Harbor Freight drill set... and they will most definitely drill thru hardened steel without lube(I use mine on high carbon and stainless). You just need the”Cobalt”drills, and to not get impatient. That HSS, Black Oxide or Titanium crap no matter what brand you get are useless, unless you a woodworker lol!
I`m working on a 2001 siera with a 246 case but the front drive shaft will not turn in 2wd when parked. I even took the encoder motor off and turned the shaft with a 14mm wrench to all positions.. I have a 99 and a 07 and my brother has an 05 and all of them do turn.
Nice work!
can you tell me what that tranfer case is called for a 2008 chevy silverado. Cant find it anywhere on the interent. Got everything tore down but cant seem to get the main big shaft out of it. First time ever doing it. Help Plz.
Isn't anaerobic sealant recommended for the mating surfaces so it won't solidify and clog up the pump pickup?
Oval holes are normal even if you didn't wiggle the drill. Careful that you don't jack the engine forward by hydraulic pressure from the grease gun to make the drive shaft longer.
Nice video.. Where can i get a transfer case rebuild kit for a 1999 chevy s10 5 speed 4.3 v6 zr2??? Thanks
I like your style... get it done but don't hack it up! 👍
Right on Brian dice video.
Thankyou very much for this information. I really do appreciate it. liked and subscribed. In the future though you can use precise technical language when you are "wiggling" the drill bit. Next time just say you are going to "waller" it out. I learned this is the technical institute of backwoods Kentucky state tech.
My front drive shaft wont disengage in 2hi. I replace the actuator. And stile not disengage. Can there be and internal damage to the transfer that would cause the front drive shaft not to disengage in any position?
Hey Brian; thanks a lot for the information! I love your vidios
I'm in Menifee and I have a crunching sound in the transfer case I think I might have broke the gear or the belts chain. Question, I think four words I was engaged did not disengage while traveling 80 miles an hour might have broken it is that possible?
Gen tech Sosa yea that will do it 😂😂😂 omfg are you serious?
Alright! Update 💪💪
on my 246 auto track transfer case i can move the rear output shaft in and out slightly after i remove the drive shaft. is this normal? I really have to push firmly with my thumb to get it to move and it's not much.
5:49 "Can I come into the out now?" - probably the dirtiest thing ever said on this channel. LOL
It’s actually a great movie quote.
Thanks Brian, Awesome vidjeo!
Your link for the " gasket maker" is a mechanical gun, and not the actual sealant. You should probably update that link to something that people will want to use to make a gasket.
Great video.
To tip, split the shafts so you don’t drill through the splined end. So how badly did that mess it up?
Ohh snap my home town Elsinore, you were off highway 74 by the bar look out point.. You a local? Here I am thinking you from another state.. Cool good video thanks.
Thanks
would it have been a good idea to grind a small flat spot for that grease fitting to bottom on? (Back of class!)
He could have just Lock-tited it to prevent loosening and any moisture issues.
So you pumped grease into your transfer case. You didn't need to put in a grease zert. The rear driveshaft slip yoke is lubricated with the fluid you put in the transfer case.
What’s the lube your using
Any thing on changing out the input shaft
A lot of great tips. Hats off to ya once again. :-)
Thank you! I was thinking about you while welding up a new coupler to my little trailer. Do you keep extra cylinders on hand so you have a back up? How low do you let a tank get in p.s.i.'s before you replace it or swap it?
I usually have 3 Argons and reorder when 1 is left. I rent the cylinders so I swap them out when the flow meter drops below 20cfm. Normal is 25-30. They purge and test them for purity so no worry's.
Good job man
Thank you.
should the main shaft have play with the cases split