What’s the difference between a V6, V10 and V15 climber?
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2023
- Use Code ‘EMIL’ for 15% Off All Apparel & Chalk from Rúngne! ▶︎ rungne.info/15OFF
Have you ever wondered what the difference is between climbers of different levels, all the way from average to pro? Well, here's one look at it!
William: V6
Cordi: V10
Me: V15
We climb boulders at our respective "training level", and compare how it looks with each other.
Massive thanks to @EricKarlsson for filming this and doing a big chunk of the editing, he's the best.
There's a raffle going on at EKB that you should also enter to make sure the boys tag along to Oslo with me!
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Thanks for watching!
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Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.
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Heyo all! I hope you liked this video and the comparison between us. Let me know if you could see a big difference or not!
Also, use my code ‘EMIL’ for 15% off all apparel & chalk from Rúngne! ▶ rungne.info/15OFF
Cordi was so smooth on the first boulder; it's good to see her climbing again. And it's nice to know that Eric hasn't lost his touch as the beta master. If William improves his technique a bit I think he could quickly jump up 2 grades.
Yeah, Cordi super smooth 👌
Ya Cordi looked more smooth on the first boulder. I think Emil is strong enough to be able to relax on technique a bit which is why he looked "less smooth" he just crushed it
She's not gonna fuck you bro
Emil clearly has power, Cordi seemed more comfortable in her strength and technique. William just seemed new to applying his technique, would love to see a reshoot of this in one year. Thanks for the video y’all.
After almost two decades of climbing I still go back and forth between the opinions "oh it is just strength" and "oh it is just technique. I really think you have to have a certain level of strength to learn technique, feel comfortable on the wall and try new things. But after you learn, you can massively reduce the strength required... maybe i am just a slow learner, but that how it always went for me.
I sometimes think that but then i remember that most pro/elite climbers have insane levels of strength, can do 1 finger pullups and 1-5-9 etc. Im a V7-V8 max climber and i dont feel weak, but when i look at these feats in comparison i am probably weak.
That's spot on.
I'm a beginner climber and totally agree! I'm just starting to learn a variety of techniques and it already helps tremendously with saving energy! Also those videos comparing different styles give me more and more options, which is why I love those so much!
The back muscle definition on Cordi is insane!!
Hey Emil, could you do another projecting video? Love to see really strong climbers working really hard stuff, keep up the good work!
Are you thinking indoor projecting or outdoor projecting? I can certainly do both!
@@EmilAbrahamsson If you’re down to do both then that would be awesome
@@EmilAbrahamssoni second that, the stuff Wedge makes where they just try hard are some of the motivating and fun videos to watch! It would be sick as hell to see more hyper tryhard videos from you
Either indoor or outdoor, but a video where you explain each move and really deep-dive into the technique would be sweet. You already basically did that with this video, and it would be awesome to see the same style applied to really really hard climbs.
@@EmilAbrahamsson both would be pretty cool, but I've heard a number of other youtubers say people always ask for outdoor content and then it doesn't perform nearly as well as indoor content... just something to consider
I agree with Emil's analysis regarding finger strength. You can see William moving through with bent arms. Some would call this out as bad technique. It's not that simple. If you lack the finger strength to hold on, bending the arms can help compensate. Unfortunately, in the end it just leads to larger muscles fatiguing as well.
The comraderey is perfect. The last comment from Emil about Eric sharing beta tips sums up climbing as a whole. It's always people helping people become better.
It's always a treat when Cordi climbs :) Enjoyed watching the different styles how V6 to V15 climbers approached the boulders. The camerawork looked quite familiar right from the start ;)
Thank you professor Emil, can't wait for the next lesson already 😎
Haha cheers my friend
Cordi, looked way smoother in my opinion. I feel like size was a factor though. You looked more boxed in.
I completely agree
Having a Deja-Vu from an early EKB episode where Emil climbed in Font with Guigui Mondet. They were on a slab which Emil powered into submission and Guigui said "You did it American style", which I found one of the most hilarious comments ever to be made on a bouldering clip.
Well, here we are again, many years later... just watch the hips from Cordi and Emil and how close thy are to the wall in comparison on the first boulder ;)
I'm loving the coaching videos Emil, I'm just getting back up to the v6-v7 range after a major collarbone injury, so these insights are invaluable and much appreciated 😊
Hey Emil love the content! Currently climbing at V10/11- outdoor and wanted to see the movements on harder outdoor climbs thanks a ton!
Emil's content just keeps getting better! keep it up :)
Love these videos breaking down the climbs! Would appreciate a video more focused on keeping tension on the feet in overhanging boulders, I'm currently working on some v6's on the tension board and I always find it hard to keep tension on the feet
I realy like Cordi's climbing style! Helpful and fun video!
Really fascinating comparisons! It will be interesting to see William's progression with the amount of expertise he has around him.
And, Cordelia: you're rocking that haircut.
Well done Will! Awesome to see people pushing their limits no matter the grades! Cool to see Cordi back too, looking F’ing strong!
It’s nice to see cordi again!!
Really cool video! Greatly enjoyed the deep dive analysis vs. just a "Emil stronk, others weak".
crazy how identifiable eric's style is, from the first shot i knew it was him filming! that is so cool!
Feels good to hear! :D
Same here ;)
Great to see Cordi back again💪
It is interesting to see the varied techniques across you three for how you approach a climb path.
Yay! Cordi!
lesson 1 is like the most underrated state i ever read in a climbing video here on youtube. if you are not strong enough, you cant apply technique! this only works if you the hand is stable enough. sure a lot of microbeta changes can realy improve one's performance - but how often do we even project a boulder that much.
Cheers mate! I think it's a good mentality to have, so you're not always punishing yourself for "climbing bad". Most of the time, we're just too weak to hold on, and resting/training is key
really like the concept of this video! the coaching from different perspectives and so on :) would you consider adding even newer/weaker climbers? asking for a friend..
William, nice fight on that last one! That looked really satisfying.
Calling V7 average is crazy to me. At my gym, 6b+/v5 is average
at my gym v3/v4 is average lol
@@joegartland I am talking from only active climbers. But yeah when counting the people who come once in a while then for sure it is lower than v5
agree...if you climb over v9/10 chances are you are being paid in some capacity to climb, so calling average v6/7 is laughable imo..
@@kylemurray8662 oh buddy if you think v10 is gonna cut a check from anywhere 😂 v15 won’t even get you paid nowadays
@@otpeezy5788 oh buddy, there's a coach at my gym who has only climbed v10.
I'm binge-watching his videos! love the content!
Aw thanks a ton! I appreciate that 😄
so good to see Cordi back on the channel! I was wondering where she's been
Supposedly, she generally films these videos.
Cordi definitely had better technique on the first climb! There was actually a bit of a bend in Emil's arms on the climb, whereas Cordi had straight arms. This allowed her to pivot much easier from the wrist, and use a lot less strength. I'm not sure why Emil's arms were bent. Either the climb favors smaller climbers and Emil was having a hard time "fitting in the box," or Cordi is just stronger on crimps.
The length of this video plus a few ads that's exactly how long it took me to remove all the pomegranate seeds from it's husk.
Ohhhh Cordi in a video again! Looking strong, nice haircut also
Cordi's new haircut is cute!
Loved this video! Seeing someone who can deadhang on a 18mm edge with so much added weight being called average makes me realise I have a very very long way to go 😂
I’ve been climbing regularly for a year now and have *just* been able to manage hanging off a 20mm edge with just my body weight 😅
I would really like to try that first 6C+!
Great insight. Cordi should be a couch for sure!!!
Nice seeing Cordi back.
Cordi looked smoother on the green, I think some part of that is how squished the positions are for taller climbers
absolutly!
wait, noooo, tall climbers only have advantages!!!!! :S he also only did the pink because he is tall! and he also did the +25kg hang only because he is tall!!! thats sooooo not fair!!! mimimi :(((
William is great i love him
Very interesting! I’m around V6 so it was helpful to see all the differences. I have a question tho: is it possible to make a boulder that requires you to do a figure 4 while in a knee bar? Never seen anything like that haha but ik you’re a setter so maybe you have some ideas
Sounds like a pretzel. Hard to say how you would force it, but most moves are possible! Fun idea
@@EmilAbrahamsson Oh cool I had no idea about this move :)
This is the first time ever in the world that I have climbed on boulders pictured in a world-famous youtube video wow
Cordi was looking really clean on that first boulder.
Hi Emil! What is the biggest difference, (if there are any) between your Mad rock drones and drone 2.0. Same sizing? Is it as stiff? etc...
I size them the same, they're slightly stiffer I would say. Biggest difference is probably that the toe hook is insanely good, the shoe wears down a lot slower in the toe, and it's a bit more comfortable. Stiffness is roughly the same, a little bit stiffer at first but once worn in feels similar.
4:53 i think cordi did the best there as it was more efficient for her. If you look at her right hip, she pushed them out which will make her not only reach the hold but with less energy used. Her hip movement made her more efficient in this case. Emil has longer arms and is also strong too so he didn't need to use his hips. Still both did well
Dude climbed the new dyson that's sick
question about sit starts: at 4:11, it seems like Emil rises off his butt and simultaneously reaches for the next hold. Is this considered ok? I thought a climber needed to "hover" briefly on the start hold to establish before moving on. Thanks for any clarification, since often times at my limit this "bounce" is the difference between me being able to do the first move or not.
I’ve heard it called a French start. If you’re doing it cause you’re at your limit and couldn’t hold the position so you go right away that’s kinda maybe sort of cheatey but if you’re just trying to get through the climb to keep a video moving and you’re well below your limit I think it’s ok.
I always questioned this too, but I believe it’s allowed. If you watch the pros they always start their projects like this outdoors. If you can pull from that position you can hover in that position. A French start is when you can’t even establish from the start and basically jump to the next hold
It's a tricky question and also why I'm not a fan of sit starts. I would say it's important to know if you're "reaching" for the hold before leaving the ground or after, and in this case I would say it's just after leaving the ground. My general rule of thumb is that you have to know for yourself with these details, if the way you started made it a lot easier then it's cheating but otherwise I think it's not worth thinking about
@@EmilAbrahamsson thank you! and of course we all know it doesnt matter for you because you couldve done this any way you wanted haha. I appreciate your insight!
Interesting, V6-V7 is the highest boulder grade I climbed, but can not hang from the holds you guys used on the beastmaker. I am guessing I could hang with -10kg of bodyweight. So my fingers are way weaker compared to William's.
To be fair I have been recovering from multiple serious injuries (double herniated disk and first real finger injury of my climbing career), but am pretty sure that at my peak I could still not hang on those beastmaker holds.
I climb v6 and I can’t even hang off of 20mm, so you are not alone lol. Idk how a lot of v6/v7 climbers can hang off of it with added weight, maybe because they spent longer getting to that level so their finger strength increased more, since I’ve been climbing for only 7 months whereas others might of taken a year or two
i expect you are able to compensate with other strengths - good body awareness, technique, mobility, movement skills etc. Still I am guessing you are not climbing v6 on steep wall angles with such weak fingers?
I climbed up to v8 in gym my first year and could do 15% of my bw maybe (i am 140lbs) so around 10 kilos until I really started training my fingers
@@hobgoblin7336 yeah you are correct lol
@@username-lj6tl what kind of v6/7 was that? o.O dude i hang on these edges with like 25kg+ and i hardly did a v4 outdoors yet. i did a v8 dyno, but well that doesnt realy count, right?
Cordi's climbing tech!!! *love heart face*
How do you like the drone 2.0s?
I want to test fit a pair but no store near me carries them
Loving them! The toe-hook is nuts, and I get great support from standing on most things. They take a few sessions to break in for volume smearing and stuff, but the edge of the toe lasts FOREVER it feels like
Eric love ❤❤❤❤
man my finger strength is serverely lacking lol im going to get on that as soon as shoulder injury is feelin better
You could really see the difference in experience and strength in this video. William struggled to read the boulders and his technique was not as good, this put him in more challenging positions causing him to fail climbs he was capable of. Cordi and yourself were able to look at the boulder and then execute with good form suited to your individual styles. Once given hints on beta/technique William was able to complete the climbs but you could see him struggle a bit due to slightly lower finger strength (and perhaps core strength). The main difference between Cordi and yourself appeared to be a combination of finger and overall strength which allows you to climb harder boulders and also opens up more options and techniques.
Haha I thought the thumbnail said V16 on the guy to the right and I was quite offended that you would call a V10 climber average
Emil climbed the second boulder better. It looked awkward for everyone, but he got it over with so he didn't have to spend any more energy fighting with awkward positions.
can you comment on the value proposition of a $58 chalk bag vs $15 just-fine one
Cordi is good vibes.
is emil using open hand or chisel grip when hangboarding? hard to tell
Cordi looked like she was closer to the wall than William and was not sagging off with her torso at all. And Emil grips like a gecko!
damn Cordi's memory for beta, both her own and others, is insane.
cordi for sure climbing with the best style
Definitely Cordi on first boulder!
Cordi has just better technique, her arms are straight, she positions her body in the right angles, especially on boulder one. Isnt the BM1000 edge just 15/16mm? I can barely hang my bodyweight as long as William does the 20kg extra :> But again his arms look very engaged there 10:04 EDIT: sorry was mistaken BM1000 with BM2000 :>
I read it varies from 16-18mm, but it was hard to confirm!
@@EmilAbrahamsson its 20 google says
@@Oguzhandogada The middle edge on BM2000 is 20mm and it's significantly deeper than the BM1000 ones.
@@dralol its says 23 for that one
Cordi looked smoother to me but girls usually do, I like both styles and try to climb differently based on my preferences that day
cordi's technique is excellent
First boulder looks harder for William's height actually. The sort of high left foot up in the middle of the boulder probably feels like a much smaller box for him. The first time he went for the side pull I thought, "that looks hard." When he got his foot up, "oh yea, much better." Then when Cordi did it and put her foot up first before going to the side pull, "Oh, much better for someone shorter."
'Come on!' -Emil Abrahamsson 2023
random, but it intrigues me so much how the swedish language cause a frog sound for certain speakers when speaking english. Why is that? Is it certain parts of sweden where that occurs?
Haha no idea, I think it's just a thing with Nordic languages. Danish sounds like that to us oftentimes, so maybe the sounds translates to english as well
I don't know where you get those "beginners" that can hang with +25kg on 18mm... I was injured couple of times that's my fault but I was never able to hang even my bodyweight on 18mm :( I love climbing but I am simply mazed how weak my fingers are. But anyway great video looking forward for another. PS.: you sold me the pants :D
Now to be fair, William has advanced a lot in the past months and +25kg is actually really good for his level, so don't worry too much about it.
Hope you like the pants as much as I do!
Whats this gym called?
This was shot at Moumo!
Fun
Hmmmm yes, tighten my butt. Great tip from coach Eric.
Is this Matilda's brother? They sound very similar
Haha no, not quite, William is Matilda’s boyfriend!
hold on, V6 and V7 is 7a.... isn't that way more than average? the majority of people at the few gyms i've been climb lower (even when fresh newbies are not included) and route setters places fewer stuff over 7a/b since only a few folks will use them anyway
Could be that grades are just stiffer in different gyms and areas :-) William hasn’t done outdoor climbs like me and Cordi, so his exact level is a bit unknown. He climbs the average grade that people climb at this gym, whatever that may be
@@EmilAbrahamsson ok i see then, mine wasnt a critique i was just surprised... maybe your gym is less "commercial" and more folk are stronger "veteran"... anyway, good interesting video, enjoyed it!
Idk about average. Most of the boulderers I meet climb 0-4 outdoors
Since when does an ''average'' climber climb v6/7? Quite an elitist opinion if you ask me
i guess when your gym starts with juggy ladders at v4...?
Its not that deep bruh
Wording could've been better. He hasn't climbed outside, he's done up to V6, we haven't tested him on anything higher.
That, and grades are mega subjective, could be V3 or V4 in your gym for all we know. William climbs around the same level as the average climber at this gym
@@EmilAbrahamsson maybe test him on some moon or kilter boards?
Finger strength
Climb #1 - Cordi looked better.
just found out i was Average
The setting in Swedish gyms is just so bad for taller climbers. We're a very tall population, but the sweetspot for climbing is the average female height like Cordi.
Nothing average about climbing V6/7
You both learnt beta from William's first attempt, I don't think that was fair.
Fair how lol? It's not a competition, they're just comparing approaches/technique
@@kasperjensen1218 I commented before I'd see the rest of the video, they took it in turns to go first on the rest of the boulders. So fair in the end.
v6/v7 is an average climber? since when? super gatekeeping.
That’s pretty accurate. Not gatekeeping a thing bro
@@otpeezy5788 according to who? show me some data.
@@kylemurray8662 ight well what do you consider a “average climber”. I consider you a climber if you’re climbing multiple days a week, not someone that goes into the gym once every few months for some TR
So William I believe has only done one V6 and is climbing the "average" grade in the gym. I guess we could've been clearer on it, but he hasn't done grades outdoors like me and Cordi, so we don't really know what grade William climbs. Grades and words such as average also have to be taken with a grain of salt, since they will always be quite subjective. From what I hear what's average in Japan for instance seems to be what's considered high level/elite here in Sweden.
I don't like the idea that if you call someone average you're gatekeeping. That mentality to me seems like a pretty toxic way to ensure that if you're below average you're supposed to not be included somehow? Everyone should feel welcome to climb, regardless of level.
Come on come on come on come on come on come on come on come on come on come on come on. So annoying.
I would have watched more but you said "come on" 32 times within the first 5 seconds of this guys boulder. Like seriously, stop doing this before people even get into the climb. So fkn annoying.
cringe
Don't be so harsh on yourself.
I thought I was average level …. but William is a beast. I can relate to the V5/6 projects more than the really hard stuff, so it’s good to see an “average climber” absolutely crush some 🥲💪
Haha to be fair, William is getting really really strong quickly. His physical capabilities I believe are quite a bit above average by now, especially weighted pull ups which he could do at +50kg, which is insane.