the original was so gutless, nice to see the manufacturer address this in part with the tc max - could use a little more poke for highway comfort but at least it's usable now looking forward to the update to see how this beast gets on - always dicey trusting the chinese with software, you're lucky if they ship software on finished products competently let alone sub-systems so that you can program your own
Looks like a well matched combo. A legit 273 50H motor (8kw), a legit 8kw controller), and a better battery (can’t really know if it can supply 450a for 10s without sagging below 72v, but better than original for sure. I have a friend who has the cheap Chinese electric ninja which came with a 3kw 17” hub motor and a votol 100 with 6x 12v32ah AGM cells. Actually a much better starting point because its all 💩 original components., unlike the super soco which has nice stuff just not made for speed. Eventually after twisting his arm, i got him to buy the real QS 273 8k from QS motors. After further twisting i said get the lowest turns they offer. I think he ended up with about 12kv. I told him to get the 72850 but he got the 72680 instead. Later he will reveal it but he’s not ready to admit it. Lol. Anyway the 350 DC amps is enough to get the rated peak of the real QS motor. And at least it’s a real Fardriver so it has the kty83-122 temperature probe firmware. I told him definitely get the temperature sensor in the motor. Then he got a 21s1p 80ah battery, which came with a 50a ANT BMS installed in bypass, without installing the free included temperature sensors. I showed him how to buy the 220a/500a 24s ANT, which directly plugged into the original balance/sensing leads, and replaced the original AWG6 and AWG 10 (to the original BMS) with the two AWG7 from the new BMS, which were merged into AWG4 going out. The original AWG6 + AWG10 (+) wires were deemed to risky to replace because those and the two BMS wires were all connected to that last tab, so the AWG 6 + AWG 10 wires were merged to AWG4. Sub-optimal but an improvement over just the single AWG6 in the original configuration. And of course the 4 free temperature probes were placed between the two stacks of LG pouch cells. The battery is rated at 240a continuous 480a peak. Perfect for a 72850. What he’s learned is that the windings heat up much faster than the housing (duh). So in order to stay within QS motor temperature limits 70c max continuous and 120c peak for 10 seconds, he’s not allowed to drive like a complete idiot. 0-120-0-120-0-120 (kph) all in 1 minute. Lol. So far the battery and controller can handle everything but of course the motor can’t really. So i told him turn field weakening off (7:none) and it will run cooler. It will do 117 kpm with no field weakening, and if he sets rpm to 100 kph it will also help. (Max legal speed for that bike where he lives is 25 kph). Hopefully by now you already have the Bluetooth dongle so you can open your smartphone and tune it while on the road. I recently added boost to mine, which has the battery as the weakest link. My battery is 25a CDR, so my DC amps is set to 40a, cruise rpm set to 25a, boost amps set to 60a, and boost also bypasses the rpm limit. This is a must for any ebike built for someone else to use because it’s a protection setting. For DIY who have the app running as a dashboard and the motor temperature sensor, its not so beneficial. For my bike, i will be making a battery that can handle the amps, and my limit will be the AWG12 wires, XT60 connectors, and the standard ebike T-plug in the power cable. So since I can’t really monitor all those at the same time, boost will be good for me because i can set to the XT60 limits of 60a DC and 1xx a boost for however many seconds the weakest link can tolerate, then set cooldown to whatever is needed up to 130 seconds. You wiring all looks up to par so you don’t need this. Your battery looks like a real battery so it probably has a BLUETOOTH BMS (probably ANT), which allows you to see what is really going on inside it. For my old battery I can see a few blips of 60a and a few acceleration with 40a already heated the cells to 48c, and 45c is my personal limit. Ambient temperature is 30c so once it heats it stays hot for hours. Like everyone else here, looking forward to your update video, showing your latest Fardriver tune, bms settings, etc. if your battery has a real BMS there is no need for a breaker or contactor. The ANT has settings for inrush current (to charge the capacitors), max discharge for x seconds (better than any circuit breaker you can buy), minimum temperature for charging (if you live where it can dip below freezing), max temperature for charging and discharging. Typical set for 60c but i set mine for 50c and if I ever overheat i can open the app and raise it and turtle home and let it cool.
@@Toasta-Builds Definitely waiting! I’m doing an extremely similar build and want to know how fast the motor can really go, also have you had any problems with reliability? Like how solid would you say these motors are, have any broken on you?
Great build. Question please, does the fardriver controller simply replace the original controller with no other programming mods, does the dash still work etc with the fardriver in place. Thanks
@@Toasta-Buildsyes, of course the wiring has to be changed due to the much increas3d current that the new controller / battery can output, but, will the fardiver work with the existing dash please, or will i need to buy a new dash compatible with the fardriver. Thank you.
i really felt it, when you mounted the tire the wrong way :)
Frustrating haha
the original was so gutless, nice to see the manufacturer address this in part with the tc max - could use a little more poke for highway comfort but at least it's usable now
looking forward to the update to see how this beast gets on - always dicey trusting the chinese with software, you're lucky if they ship software on finished products competently let alone sub-systems so that you can program your own
Nice!
Where’s part 2 for this??
awesome bike build can't wait to see the results
Sir, this is probably the best 16 mins of youtube I have ever seen. AWESOME. Subscribed and will watch your other vids, cheers dude.
Thank you my man.
Looks like a well matched combo. A legit 273 50H motor (8kw), a legit 8kw controller), and a better battery (can’t really know if it can supply 450a for 10s without sagging below 72v, but better than original for sure.
I have a friend who has the cheap Chinese electric ninja which came with a 3kw 17” hub motor and a votol 100 with 6x 12v32ah AGM cells. Actually a much better starting point because its all 💩 original components., unlike the super soco which has nice stuff just not made for speed.
Eventually after twisting his arm, i got him to buy the real QS 273 8k from QS motors. After further twisting i said get the lowest turns they offer. I think he ended up with about 12kv.
I told him to get the 72850 but he got the 72680 instead. Later he will reveal it but he’s not ready to admit it. Lol. Anyway the 350 DC amps is enough to get the rated peak of the real QS motor. And at least it’s a real Fardriver so it has the kty83-122 temperature probe firmware. I told him definitely get the temperature sensor in the motor.
Then he got a 21s1p 80ah battery, which came with a 50a ANT BMS installed in bypass, without installing the free included temperature sensors. I showed him how to buy the 220a/500a 24s ANT, which directly plugged into the original balance/sensing leads, and replaced the original AWG6 and AWG 10 (to the original BMS) with the two AWG7 from the new BMS, which were merged into AWG4 going out. The original AWG6 + AWG10 (+) wires were deemed to risky to replace because those and the two BMS wires were all connected to that last tab, so the AWG 6 + AWG 10 wires were merged to AWG4. Sub-optimal but an improvement over just the single AWG6 in the original configuration. And of course the 4 free temperature probes were placed between the two stacks of LG pouch cells. The battery is rated at 240a continuous 480a peak. Perfect for a 72850.
What he’s learned is that the windings heat up much faster than the housing (duh). So in order to stay within QS motor temperature limits 70c max continuous and 120c peak for 10 seconds, he’s not allowed to drive like a complete idiot. 0-120-0-120-0-120 (kph) all in 1 minute. Lol.
So far the battery and controller can handle everything but of course the motor can’t really. So i told him turn field weakening off (7:none) and it will run cooler. It will do 117 kpm with no field weakening, and if he sets rpm to 100 kph it will also help. (Max legal speed for that bike where he lives is 25 kph).
Hopefully by now you already have the Bluetooth dongle so you can open your smartphone and tune it while on the road.
I recently added boost to mine, which has the battery as the weakest link. My battery is 25a CDR, so my DC amps is set to 40a, cruise rpm set to 25a, boost amps set to 60a, and boost also bypasses the rpm limit. This is a must for any ebike built for someone else to use because it’s a protection setting. For DIY who have the app running as a dashboard and the motor temperature sensor, its not so beneficial.
For my bike, i will be making a battery that can handle the amps, and my limit will be the AWG12 wires, XT60 connectors, and the standard ebike T-plug in the power cable. So since I can’t really monitor all those at the same time, boost will be good for me because i can set to the XT60 limits of 60a DC and 1xx a boost for however many seconds the weakest link can tolerate, then set cooldown to whatever is needed up to 130 seconds.
You wiring all looks up to par so you don’t need this. Your battery looks like a real battery so it probably has a BLUETOOTH BMS (probably ANT), which allows you to see what is really going on inside it. For my old battery I can see a few blips of 60a and a few acceleration with 40a already heated the cells to 48c, and 45c is my personal limit. Ambient temperature is 30c so once it heats it stays hot for hours.
Like everyone else here, looking forward to your update video, showing your latest Fardriver tune, bms settings, etc. if your battery has a real BMS there is no need for a breaker or contactor. The ANT has settings for inrush current (to charge the capacitors), max discharge for x seconds (better than any circuit breaker you can buy), minimum temperature for charging (if you live where it can dip below freezing), max temperature for charging and discharging. Typical set for 60c but i set mine for 50c and if I ever overheat i can open the app and raise it and turtle home and let it cool.
Eagerly awaiting the next great job looks fantastic 👍
Thank you sir
Nice work, pretty cool bike now
Awesome build mate!
Your modification skills are very good👍
Thank you! Cheers!
i am about to take one..by how much does the speed range change?
Hola muy buen video donde consigo el Ramal de cables el controlador ?
Nice to know a person needs to change the whole bike practically to make it worth riding. In Australia $7000 for a So slow. Ridiculous. 😮
Man amazing skills! Congrats and thanks for the video !
Thank you sir
Where is part two????
The hands-on ability is very good, and the rear tire seems to be reversed.😊
Haha yes it is. It was hard to get it on so it’s going to stay like that
@@Toasta-Builds Yes, this requires a machine.😀
I would like to know where to get motor, controller, battery etc....
Alibaba
if goes backward just need to change any of the 3 phase wires, or SW config
Awesome build man! If I had a dollar every time a put a tire on backwards 👍
Thanks man. was consciously making sure it was going on right,,still messed it up haha
@@Toasta-Builds I do it all the time, especially when you're "sure" it's on right 👍Can't wait to see the next part, keep it going 🍻
It’s going cyberpunk 🤙🏼
@@Toasta-Builds The only way it should be!
Awesome !
cool
Interesting project, nicely done, goin for the cheese n crackers now, maybe a glass of wine.
haha nice
Have you taken it for a ride yet? its been like 2 months
I have! She rips, vid coming soon 🤙🏼
@@Toasta-Builds Definitely waiting! I’m doing an extremely similar build and want to know how fast the motor can really go, also have you had any problems with reliability? Like how solid would you say these motors are, have any broken on you?
@@kadensmith5586 just waiting for a nice day. Haven’t ridden it much but this set up is known to be reliable.
❤❤❤
Oh wow, this is amazing! Such great work … you don’t want to do this on my Go Charged Velociraptor by any chance? 😂
I’ll give it a go. haha
How much will it cost to build me the same battery
Great project, I see you upgraded original front disc brake too. Have you got info on where and what disc you have please
Thanks man. I didn’t change the front disc.
Made in China, I have a lot here.😊
Great build. Question please, does the fardriver controller simply replace the original controller with no other programming mods, does the dash still work etc with the fardriver in place. Thanks
I replaced everything. Wiring loom, display etc. all super soco wiring was removed
@@Toasta-Buildsyes, of course the wiring has to be changed due to the much increas3d current that the new controller / battery can output, but, will the fardiver work with the existing dash please, or will i need to buy a new dash compatible with the fardriver. Thank you.
Tried so much for the battery place.
Thinking of using Nissan leaf cells 7 of them can make a 72volt pack
Hi Ryan, Any updates on this? Does it ride well and fast? I am wondering if something similar would work for the CPX scooter version
Hey man. Yup she goes like a cut cat!! (Ride video coming soon)
The front brakes/tyre need to be a little beefier but it’s a usable commuter now
@@Toasta-Builds looking forward to the update 😎
Ponga las especificaciones porfavor
Freedom land 😅🤟👽🚲🔧
I would called a rebuild not built
Hey Toasta, do you have an email to get in contact with?