Thanks for your help Bjorn. I followed your instructions and changed mine at home. I had to buy an offset head ring spanner for the top nut because it is recessed and I couldn't shift it with a normal spanner. Also I had to get good spring compressors because as you said, the shock shaft pulls back when you take the nut off and you really have to squeeze the spring to get the nut back on. Getting the anti roll bar link back on was also difficult because the car tilts when you jack up one side so I jacked up the hub to level up.
This morning I was changing from winter to summer wheels and noticed my strut boots are completely shredded. Thanks for showing us how to replace them!
I cannot do this myself and the cost of having this done led me to look at covering the spring instead. A company in Tyneside UK has been covering shock absorbers on racing cars for years and off road vehicles that get a lot of dirt thrown up. All I had to do is measure the circumference and the length and they tailor made two front open covers elasticated top and bottom with overlap held with velcro. for extra security I put a zip tie round the middle. Cost £25
Do you know the name of the company in Tyneside? Thank you. I am interested to find a similar company in the U.S. but would like to see the website before searching. If you have the details of the parts you bought that would be wonderful. Thank you.
I replaced mine this past weekend and decided to remove the strut from the wheel hub assembly - big mistake. Your approach is trickier but much faster. The struts on mine were seized to the assembly and I needed to use a BFH to loosen them and reinstall them (I don't have near a much road build up as you do either).
Great video! My dealer here in Norway has quoted NOK 10 000 for this job 😮 Because of your excellent step-by-step video I am now confident that I can fix it my self, and be saving quite a lot of bucks 😊
Got an estimated price of NOK 11900,- for changing rubber boots on both side from a BMW dealership. Pretty sure after this excelent video i'm doing it myself:)
This process worked for me, however I recommend jacking both sides of the front of the car up to remove upward tension from the anti-roll bar. If you dont do this it will be difficult to disconnect the anti-roll bar connecting rod and you won't be able to pull the spring and shock assembly out of the wheel arch. Other than that the process works well.
I just did this job and unfortunately had to replace the strut becuase it cracked on the top when trying to loosen the bolt. Be really cautios and spray alot of oil/rust remover and let it sit for a while before trying to loosen it.
Thanks for the positive feedback. One more tip that came in a comment is to lubricate the top nut/hex if that seems stuck. Just to prevent it from cracking. That could be a week point.
@@BasinBjorn thanks for the info I did lube it with wd40 a light penetrating oil it was rusty but came off ok I will put a little silicone lube on it when installing the new spring
Well it did get more firm, and less bouncy/wobly, but I think it's not that bad. I had lowering springs on a previous car and I think that was a harder ride. Only time this gets a bit "too hard" is when going up a curb and my passenger GF isn't in her best mood. But I think it's absolutely ok with these lowering springs.
Thank you for the support! I got a few interesting videos coming up soon; battery upgrade 60Ah to 94Ah (covering why, how, where and how much) and then a 60Ah battery disassembly. Should be an interesting topic :)
Hej Björn! I would also like to hear how your rubber boots are doing today? Still ok and which is the correct torch (vridmoment) to use on the nuts and bolts? Mvh Rickard
Hej, jag hade bilen något år efter bytet och damaskerna var fina. Vridmoment minns/ vet jag ej. Däremot fick jag ett knarrande ljud från övre stötdämparfästet, så kanske var något där som jag missade.
Hej Björn. Hoppas du läser det här. Jag är på gång att byta gummit på min i3 och undrar om du kommer ihåg hur mycket du kapade på skruvarna till fjäderverktyget. Eller rättare, hur långa var skruvarna när du kapat dom? Har sett andra som sätter kompressorn åt andra hållet, men ditt sätt verkar smidigare.
Tjena Peter, minns faktiskt inte. Det var så länge sedan, men i videon ser det ut som ca 6cm. Jag kapade överflödet som inte behövdes för att nå på fjädern. Minns jag korrekt behöver man bara komprimera för att släppa på trycket upptill. Och är verktyget för långt tog det väl i.
@@BasinBjorn hej. Kul att du svarade. Jag har kollat lite filmer på bytet och din metod verkar ju definitivt enklast. Jag tänkte köpa Biltemas fjäderverktyg så får jag väl måtta lite och kapa. Sen är det trasigt i bak också, men där verkar det enklare..
Not 100% sure but I believe it's not needed. Because the only part removed is the top of the suspension and the torque arm (I think it's called). My car is still running straight and tires have even wear.
Bjorn, thanks for your time making the video! Seems not too bad to fix myself. What's your impression of the quality of the new rubber boots? Are they better than the originals? The originals feels like cheap chinesium plastic, and not proper rubber. I had these replaced under warranty on two different i3s. It's a shame that these break so early. Should last for many, many years.
Yes my impression is that the new rubber boots are better, but I got a squeaky noise when steering. Not sure why, but will look into that in the spring.
Nu minns jag inte exakt men jag tror man inte behövde det. För att man bara lossade fjädringen upptill. Men kan vara bra att rådfråga någon mer kunnig om det.
Yes it does improv the car a bit. I can’t say exactly how much but the spacers & lowering does make it less wobbly. My spacers was “only” 15mm per wheel, I have seen people go wider in the back.
I had them replaced both sides under warranty on a 2014 i3. They broke a screw there too. So I had to go back one extra day to fix that. Had the some problem on a 2018 i3. Why so lousy quality on such a cheap part? A lot of work and cost to fix it. Well, obviously it can be done rather cheap thanks to this video. Great work, Bjorn!
Thanks for your help Bjorn. I followed your instructions and changed mine at home. I had to buy an offset head ring spanner for the top nut because it is recessed and I couldn't shift it with a normal spanner. Also I had to get good spring compressors because as you said, the shock shaft pulls back when you take the nut off and you really have to squeeze the spring to get the nut back on. Getting the anti roll bar link back on was also difficult because the car tilts when you jack up one side so I jacked up the hub to level up.
This morning I was changing from winter to summer wheels and noticed my strut boots are completely shredded. Thanks for showing us how to replace them!
I cannot do this myself and the cost of having this done led me to look at covering the spring instead.
A company in Tyneside UK has been covering shock absorbers on racing cars for years and off road vehicles that get a lot of dirt thrown up.
All I had to do is measure the circumference and the length and they tailor made two front open covers elasticated top and bottom with overlap held with velcro.
for extra security I put a zip tie round the middle. Cost £25
Do you know the name of the company in Tyneside? Thank you. I am interested to find a similar company in the U.S. but would like to see the website before searching. If you have the details of the parts you bought that would be wonderful. Thank you.
Svært god forklaring på hvordan du demonterer og monterer. Tusen takk for lærerik video👍
I replaced mine this past weekend and decided to remove the strut from the wheel hub assembly - big mistake. Your approach is trickier but much faster. The struts on mine were seized to the assembly and I needed to use a BFH to loosen them and reinstall them (I don't have near a much road build up as you do either).
Great video! My dealer here in Norway has quoted NOK 10 000 for this job 😮 Because of your excellent step-by-step video I am now confident that I can fix it my self, and be saving quite a lot of bucks 😊
Got an estimated price of NOK 11900,- for changing rubber boots on both side from a BMW dealership. Pretty sure after this excelent video i'm doing it myself:)
Great vid, now I understand what's involved I will replace the top mount on mine myself. Cheers.
This process worked for me, however I recommend jacking both sides of the front of the car up to remove upward tension from the anti-roll bar. If you dont do this it will be difficult to disconnect the anti-roll bar connecting rod and you won't be able to pull the spring and shock assembly out of the wheel arch. Other than that the process works well.
Thank you for all your DIY vids on the I3. I admire your skills!!!!
I just wanted to say thank you for this. I've just done mine with the help of your video. Have a fab new year! 🔧😁
I just did this job and unfortunately had to replace the strut becuase it cracked on the top when trying to loosen the bolt. Be really cautios and spray alot of oil/rust remover and let it sit for a while before trying to loosen it.
I am in the process of replacing a front spring that failed. This video is very well done and helping me a lot thanks so much
Thanks for the positive feedback. One more tip that came in a comment is to lubricate the top nut/hex if that seems stuck. Just to prevent it from cracking. That could be a week point.
@@BasinBjorn thanks for the info I did lube it with wd40 a light penetrating oil it was rusty but came off ok I will put a little silicone lube on it when installing the new spring
Brilliant video. I drive 2019 i3S the,
design i3 is the best car ever built. I subscribed too!! Thanks for posting Bjorn
Thank you from the UK !!
Mine need doing and this video will help when I get around to doing it :)
Did you akso replace the bearing. ? The one thats a design flaw
Bra video, god fokus på de viktige sakene. Prøvde med muttertrekker på stabstag, men måtte bruke unbraco til å holde bolt igjen.
Great video. Very much appreciated.
My i3 2015 has the same issue. After seeing this video I think ill do the job myself.
Did the new springs make for a much rougher ride?
Great video - thank you for taking the time. My '17 i3 Rex appreciates it 👍
Well it did get more firm, and less bouncy/wobly, but I think it's not that bad.
I had lowering springs on a previous car and I think that was a harder ride.
Only time this gets a bit "too hard" is when going up a curb and my passenger GF isn't in her best mood.
But I think it's absolutely ok with these lowering springs.
Good job. I will do this today. Thank you for your movie 👊
En stor lettelse å se hvor lett i3 er å arbeide på! Takk!
I'm enjoying your videos :-) Usefull and well made. I have an i3 also so love i3 repairs!
Thank you for the support! I got a few interesting videos coming up soon; battery upgrade 60Ah to 94Ah (covering why, how, where and how much) and then a 60Ah battery disassembly. Should be an interesting topic :)
as you have fitted lower springs do you need to modify the bump stops?
Hej Björn! I would also like to hear how your rubber boots are doing today? Still ok and which is the correct torch (vridmoment) to use on the nuts and bolts? Mvh Rickard
Hej, jag hade bilen något år efter bytet och damaskerna var fina. Vridmoment minns/ vet jag ej. Däremot fick jag ett knarrande ljud från övre stötdämparfästet, så kanske var något där som jag missade.
Hej Björn. Hoppas du läser det här. Jag är på gång att byta gummit på min i3 och undrar om du kommer ihåg hur mycket du kapade på skruvarna till fjäderverktyget. Eller rättare, hur långa var skruvarna när du kapat dom? Har sett andra som sätter kompressorn åt andra hållet, men ditt sätt verkar smidigare.
Tjena Peter, minns faktiskt inte. Det var så länge sedan, men i videon ser det ut som ca 6cm. Jag kapade överflödet som inte behövdes för att nå på fjädern. Minns jag korrekt behöver man bara komprimera för att släppa på trycket upptill. Och är verktyget för långt tog det väl i.
@@BasinBjorn hej. Kul att du svarade. Jag har kollat lite filmer på bytet och din metod verkar ju definitivt enklast. Jag tänkte köpa Biltemas fjäderverktyg så får jag väl måtta lite och kapa. Sen är det trasigt i bak också, men där verkar det enklare..
Fantasitcally useful, I will have a go now that I have seen this!
Hi Bjorn, to which lenght you have cutted the spring tensioners? Or what would be the maximum lenght in your opinion?
Does the car needs an alignment after this fix? I just discovered that both boots are trashed.
Not 100% sure but I believe it's not needed. Because the only part removed is the top of the suspension and the torque arm (I think it's called).
My car is still running straight and tires have even wear.
Wonder if there’s a sensible way to soften the I3 suspension.
Good video, just need torques for the nuts and bolts
Bjorn, thanks for your time making the video! Seems not too bad to fix myself. What's your impression of the quality of the new rubber boots? Are they better than the originals? The originals feels like cheap chinesium plastic, and not proper rubber. I had these replaced under warranty on two different i3s. It's a shame that these break so early. Should last for many, many years.
Yes my impression is that the new rubber boots are better, but I got a squeaky noise when steering. Not sure why, but will look into that in the spring.
Can you do a front bumper refresh to make it look like 2018?
did you say you are doing a separate video for the springs?
I never got to that point, but I have the recordings from the front suspension that are relevant. Not sure about the rear .
Thanks. Now can make reasoned pain analysis
Thanks a lot. Very helpful
Hej Björn, Måste man göra hjulinställning efter byttet?
Nu minns jag inte exakt men jag tror man inte behövde det. För att man bara lossade fjädringen upptill. Men kan vara bra att rådfråga någon mer kunnig om det.
Thank you, another very useful vid 👍
No split CV boot available?
Did you make a video on the rear springs to ?
No, don’t think I filmed that part of the lowering process.
@@BasinBjorn do you remember what size tork you used ? on the 3 bolts on rear
No I’m sorry I don’t.
nicely done .. i will do the same on my customers car next monday thx for the tip / BMW blacksmith Roskilde denmark
there nothing on the internet talking about how different the rear struts are 😢
Thank you, nice video, clear & detailed...need to do my 320d soon ;-)
What is the propose of the dust cover? Dealer just quoted me 1500 to replace it.
Omg!!!
I wanted to see you fitting the rubber boot but you've edited that part out.
Right on thanks for the video!
I see this car has wheel spacers does this improve the handling?
Yes it does improv the car a bit. I can’t say exactly how much but the spacers & lowering does make it less wobbly.
My spacers was “only” 15mm per wheel, I have seen people go wider in the back.
Where’s the before and after lowering video? I’ve looked through all your vids but it’s not obvious?
What thickness in millimeters wheel pacers please ?? Thank you very much .
I got 15mm in both front and rear. I've heard of some people using thicker spacers in the back, but I wanted to play it safe and went with 15mm.
nice tints
i paid about 500 euros for this job when they did this at bmw.. and they broke a screw that had to be fixed..
I had them replaced both sides under warranty on a 2014 i3. They broke a screw there too. So I had to go back one extra day to fix that. Had the some problem on a 2018 i3. Why so lousy quality on such a cheap part? A lot of work and cost to fix it. Well, obviously it can be done rather cheap thanks to this video. Great work, Bjorn!