Fun stuff. One thing folks don't appreciate is the flex line can collapse internally and cause sneaky drag/pull issues. Replacing is cheap insurance - in your case stainless will help with brake feel as well. Shop Boss seemed to be looking for why its taking so long. Lots of equipment sitting idle while you shade tree - smile! yeah and not everybody can tap with a SLEDGE HAMMER.... Yeah the oil (and whatever else) in your hands and on your hands (plus the oil in the air tool if you use any) make the rubber hose ends kind of spongy/soft. We hacked them off and used a hose fitting and a hose clamp. Hated the clamp but hated to toss 48 foot of good hose more. The old girl seems to put the whoa down very well. Must be for everybody else's protection - that is a solid car to impact the not as solid one's. Now back to the shop and hand re-torque those lugs before you warp those expensive rotors...... grin! _Dan_
I like how you let the camera just run so we could see everything that you had to do to fix the brakes on the passenger side of the car. It seemed like a normal repair job, but it was good to be able to watch the whole process. Nice job, great video and keep them coming!
I too was disappointed with Goodyear air compressor hose. Bought a ReelWorks Hybrid Polymer Flexible Air Hose on Amazon and its been great. Going on 2 years and its holding up perfectly well, no splits, no leaks and as the name suggests its very flexible.
Thanks for sharing Brian. Just cut the metal shroud of the airline crimp, shorten the hose a foot and just refit with a hose clamp. Its the constant bending at the coupling that cracks the hose up. regards from the UK
The sound of power! Gotta love those old mercs 0-60 in under a minute! You should make am extra long wheel stud with threads on 1 end and knurl the other end it makes wheel install on german cars easy
i see you shop at rockauto too great place to get parts been buyin from them for years those braided lines will transfer more pressure to the calipers as the rubber once will baloon some
Rpm gauge a simple fix, mercedessource.com, or junk yard. Just replace the black plastic sensor cartridge on the driver fender, 60 seconds. Looks like 3 inch by 1 1/2 inch d size battery, twists off and on. Love the channel.
Brian if you want something that will last make it yourself! Repairing it will be a little cheaper and will also allow you to just cut off the bad hose. I know it would be too expensive to ship but for those of you in Southern California and have a Thompson Building Supply in Corona, CA will repair or build you whatever length you need in Air or Water hose. Tire of the 50 foot hose they can make you 500 feet of hose so you don't have but two connections to go bad.
The drive up-town looks familiar😁 Good tip on the brake ( break ) in! You do however need a spreader bar for the bridge crane so you can raise it and work on the car at a better height...
The trick is to push a piece of hose onto the nipple of the bleeder screw, run that into jar with some brake fluid in it. Top up reservoir, loosen bleeder screw, pump brake pedal, re-tighten screw, job done.
Brian, I really don't thing Bailey gives a crap, just judging from how he looked at you. But I am so glad you grow the corn for my whiskey...keep up the good work.
You can get a rough idea how good a brake pad/shoe will grab by looking at the code printed on the pad. It will usually say something like EE, FE, FF, GG somewhere in the code, that's the warm and hot coefficient of friction. E is barely better than the steel backing plate, F is good, G is great but uncommon.
Get yourself a hose repair kit. Mine does air and torch hoses. You have everything else. What I wouldn’t give to move out of the city and into an area like that.
That's the way to do it, everything NEW, no fidling around with parts that won't be 100% rust free... ;) During the road test, I was looking for an ice cream parlor, that would have been nice after a successful hard job... lol Maybe next time... And take along Baily, so no ice cream gets to soil the nice clean interior...
Nice job there. I guess my C class with 18000 miles won't be needing reshoeing for a while and i bet it's not so simple these days either, what with all those fancy electrics.
Thanks for sharing my dad and I have been driving diesel benz's for years he bought a 1995 E300D new put almost 600K on it gave it to a family friend who is our benz mechanic he works at the dealership but has a shop at his house that's where he works on our cars I'M driving a 199 300D I bought in 1998 had 13K on it and has about 280K on it now and still runs and drives great. We are really disappointed that mercedes has decided not to import any diesel cars or suvs.
Shade tree brake job, and I see Bailey came over to help bleed the brakes. I do like the air operated torque wrench. That would be $750.00 at the dealer, but you would get a free cup of coffee.
Well, it looked like the Tach wasn't working....I've been dealing with brake issues on my 73 corvette, manual brakes...4 calipers, so there are 16 pistons, 4 hoses....they are notorious for trouble bleeding...2 piece calipers aren't all that rigid either...I might go with the stainless hoses, but that's bleeding again My tach works but speedo doesn't...
What sort of mpg do those Merc diesels get? In high school I drove an '84 K5 Blazer with the 6.2 Detroit, and I was routinely impressed that a 6,000 lb truck with a 3 speed non-OD got 24 mpg or better
tapered roller bearings should have pre load on them i do believe the old 1987 hilux has a speck that says to tighten the nut till x lb ft to seat everything nicely then to back it off and re tighten slowly and progressively turning the hub with a pull scale much like a fish scale hocked on the stud to x amount of brake away force i have done it this way on my twin axle trailer also and believe the bearings will out last ones that are lose and allowed to sit out of alignment when side load is applied
I've been around and worked on many a car and this is the first time I've ever heard of burnishing the brakes. Never seen it done from a garage or anywhere else. I do believe all your doing is prematurely wearing them out. It is always good to test drive to make sure they are working but that's it. Not even in car repair manuals say to do that. You go out and start over heating the pads and you will loose braking efficiency. You will put a glaze on the pads. Once you do that they are scrap.
Here is a link to Wagners guidelines on the burnishing process. The actual process can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. www.wagnerbrake.com/technical/technical-tips/break-in.html also Raybestos says same thing www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybestos_installation_tips.php
after looking a the wagner link I still wouldn't do that to the brake pads. All your doing is glazing the pads, no good. You ever hear of brake fade. if you feel it's necessary then do it. Personally I would never let anyone do that to my brake pads. Your just looking for a brake failure accident.
Tire could be under the car frame, out of the shot. That's what I do for wheel-off work and don't expect to have to get under it. Keeps the tire out of the way, and it will catch it if needed. Use the wheel cover as a dish to hold the lugs, and put that with the tire also. That way you don't accidentally kick your nuts...
Loved watching the oil pressure gauge take a dive under braking, then return to full scale on acceleration. Classic.
Fun stuff. One thing folks don't appreciate is the flex line can collapse internally and cause sneaky drag/pull issues. Replacing is cheap insurance - in your case stainless will help with brake feel as well.
Shop Boss seemed to be looking for why its taking so long. Lots of equipment sitting idle while you shade tree - smile! yeah and not everybody can tap with a SLEDGE HAMMER....
Yeah the oil (and whatever else) in your hands and on your hands (plus the oil in the air tool if you use any) make the rubber hose ends kind of spongy/soft. We hacked them off and used a hose fitting and a hose clamp. Hated the clamp but hated to toss 48 foot of good hose more.
The old girl seems to put the whoa down very well. Must be for everybody else's protection - that is a solid car to impact the not as solid one's.
Now back to the shop and hand re-torque those lugs before you warp those expensive rotors...... grin!
_Dan_
I like how you let the camera just run so we could see everything that you had to do to fix the brakes on the passenger side of the car. It seemed like a normal repair job, but it was good to be able to watch the whole process. Nice job, great video and keep them coming!
I too was disappointed with Goodyear air compressor hose. Bought a ReelWorks Hybrid Polymer Flexible Air Hose on Amazon and its been great. Going on 2 years and its holding up perfectly well, no splits, no leaks and as the name suggests its very flexible.
Thanks for sharing Brian. Just cut the metal shroud of the airline crimp, shorten the hose a foot and just refit with a hose clamp. Its the constant bending at the coupling that cracks the hose up. regards from the UK
I like the Stanley big bore hoses... Got some that are ten years old and they've held up well.
The sound of power! Gotta love those old mercs 0-60 in under a minute! You should make am extra long wheel stud with threads on 1 end and knurl the other end it makes wheel install on german cars easy
I’m about to do my brakes & rotors. Thanks for the video detailing the process.
i see you shop at rockauto too great place to get parts been buyin from them for years those braided lines will transfer more pressure to the calipers as the rubber once will baloon some
I absolutely agree Rock auto is a great place to get parts! they even send to the ass end of the would.
You might need a larger pry bar to knock off the dust caps next time.
Yep. :)
Rpm gauge a simple fix, mercedessource.com, or junk yard. Just replace the black plastic sensor cartridge on the driver fender, 60 seconds. Looks like 3 inch by 1 1/2 inch d size battery, twists off and on.
Love the channel.
Nope its the dash on this one.
Saw you got the calipers with the magic bleeder option.
Brian if you want something that will last make it yourself! Repairing it will be a little cheaper and will also allow you to just cut off the bad hose. I know it would be too expensive to ship but for those of you in Southern California and have a Thompson Building Supply in Corona, CA will repair or build you whatever length you need in Air or Water hose. Tire of the 50 foot hose they can make you 500 feet of hose so you don't have but two connections to go bad.
DidBailey help you bleed the brakes?
Looks like north central Kentucky. Beautiful.
The drive up-town looks familiar😁 Good tip on the brake ( break ) in! You do however need a spreader bar for the bridge crane so you can raise it and work on the car at a better height...
Your Mercedes is almost as faded as my 1995 Honda Passport, it was red now it is kind a pink....it runs fine so I am happy with it.
Nice job Brian!
Steve
How did you bleed the brakes....Bailey pump the pedal or do you have a pressure bleeder?
The trick is to push a piece of hose onto the nipple of the bleeder screw, run that into jar with some brake fluid in it. Top up reservoir, loosen bleeder screw, pump brake pedal, re-tighten screw, job done.
vacuum bleeders are the thing now, much better than pressure, all done at the wheel end,
Brian, I really don't thing Bailey gives a crap, just judging from how he looked at you. But I am so glad you grow the corn for my whiskey...keep up the good work.
I like the view of Downtown Bagdad!
You can get a rough idea how good a brake pad/shoe will grab by looking at the code printed on the pad. It will usually say something like EE, FE, FF, GG somewhere in the code, that's the warm and hot coefficient of friction. E is barely better than the steel backing plate, F is good, G is great but uncommon.
Get yourself a hose repair kit. Mine does air and torch hoses. You have everything else.
What I wouldn’t give to move out of the city and into an area like that.
That's the way to do it, everything NEW, no fidling around with parts that won't be 100% rust free... ;)
During the road test, I was looking for an ice cream parlor, that would have been nice after a successful hard job... lol
Maybe next time... And take along Baily, so no ice cream gets to soil the nice clean interior...
Thank you brother for the video
Nice job there. I guess my C class with 18000 miles won't be needing reshoeing for a while and i bet it's not so simple these days either, what with all those fancy electrics.
thanks for the video
Thanks for sharing my dad and I have been driving diesel benz's for years he bought a 1995 E300D new put almost 600K on it gave it to a family friend who is our benz mechanic he works at the dealership but has a shop at his house that's where he works on our cars I'M driving a 199 300D I bought in 1998 had 13K on it and has about 280K on it now and still runs and drives great. We are really disappointed that mercedes has decided not to import any diesel cars or suvs.
The fields and crops look good. How's your corn doing? Prices are decent right now.
Looks good.
at 2.30 it looks like you need a new tie rod end. :) Gotta love those old burners...
Shade tree brake job, and I see Bailey came over to help bleed the brakes. I do like the air operated torque wrench. That would be $750.00 at the dealer, but you would get a free cup of coffee.
That's amazing the car can go that fast with the engine turning zero RPM....
Saves fuel.
Well, it looked like the Tach wasn't working....I've been dealing with brake issues on my 73 corvette, manual brakes...4 calipers, so there are 16 pistons, 4 hoses....they are notorious for trouble bleeding...2 piece calipers aren't all that rigid either...I might go with the stainless hoses, but that's bleeding again
My tach works but speedo doesn't...
I watched this video and did the same. .02¢ quick fix.
ruclips.net/video/GsIfjrA9Ah8/видео.html
Thanks for the video.
Great stuff as usual Mr. Brian !! I appreciate you sharing !! What model year is your car ?? Please be safe my friend and God bless !!!!!!! Eddy
1983
Flexzilla makes the best air hose
Well you got me confused. How did you bleed the brake lines and calipers?
Great job Brian, like your shop where you fixed it, just like mine in the gravel and grass.
I have fixed a whole lot of stuff in the big blue shed over the years!! lol
What sort of mpg do those Merc diesels get? In high school I drove an '84 K5 Blazer with the 6.2 Detroit, and I was routinely impressed that a 6,000 lb truck with a 3 speed non-OD got 24 mpg or better
26mpg is a realistic value. The car weighs around 5klbs. We have hills here so nothing ever gets super mileage like people in flat states can get.
There should be a fridge magnet in that box to.
Brake jobs are one of lifes necessary evils. May be getting near one myself.
The chooks foot rides again !!!
BigBlock,
U walkin’ in high Cotten driving that fancy Mercedes around town like that
How did u bleed them brakes?
Open the bleeders and let gravity drain them, just takes a few minutes.
bcbloc02
Heard about that technique,
For sum reason it never works for me..
Wat was the best German gas motor during WW11?
What happened to the tachometer?
Tacho failures are common on old European cars. Half my BMW's have had non-functioning or erratic tacho's. I just use the old calibrated ear.
bcbbloc02......putting real South in South Main Auto. Work in a few sound effects and ugga duggas and you'll have it down pat.
Nice Euro headlights!! Is it a grey market car?
No I upgraded it with DOT approved hella lights years ago.
looks awesome!
More importantly I can see better with them!
Yep that was faster, Must be because Boss Bailey was watching you work on the second one. LOL
Brian, The hose blows....
Eric
You have poured enough concrete for a small shopping mall and you are still working in the grass. Guess that is the Kentucky way.
The benz lacks the ground clearance to get into the shop until I get the apron poured outside.
That benz weighs less than the boring mill. I'm sure the crane would lift it lol. quit making excuses ha ha
When are you going to do a video on polishing the paint on the Mercedes?
I polish all that oxidation off there won't be any paint left!
That oxidation adds character ;)
No new grease seals?
They weren't worn or leaking.
Maybe some brake pad sensors one of these days? Those cars will run forever.
I don't need a dash light to tell me when I need to replace the brakes. :-)
Can’t put the car in the shop, has bolts smaller then 1/4 20. :) All metric of course.
Exactly. LOL
time for a lift in the shop
tapered roller bearings should have pre load on them i do believe
the old 1987 hilux has a speck that says to tighten the nut till x lb ft to seat everything nicely then to back it off and re tighten slowly and progressively turning the hub with a pull scale much like a fish scale hocked on the stud to x amount of brake away force
i have done it this way on my twin axle trailer also and believe the bearings will out last ones that are lose and allowed to sit out of alignment when side load is applied
Timken calls for .001" to .005" endplay when setting up wheel bearings(clearance). This can of course vary by manufacturer.
I can see Bailey didn't inspect that tachometer either..fire that dog.
I was looking at the fields of corn....lol.. ....13
why not turn that old rotor on the boring mill? lol, looks like you got the ole girl fixed up!
Because new is better than rebuilt junk. :-)
Bilstein
Why not a Diesel 😀!
Drive it like you stole it!
Better not steal one of these cars the owner could likely run you down on foot! lol
My daily driver is a 1981 VW diesel pickup, all 50hp. So I have some idea about being run down on foot. :-)
I had an 84 Jetta. It wouldn't hold speed on a big hill. I feel your pain. LOL
Next week put in a John Deere the Hyster
Looks like you need to treat the old girl to a buff job.
Beats a fiat/dodge i guess
Thought for sure that'd be a Diesel....... :(
It is a diesel 5cyl to be exact.
Wow, dosen't sound like a diesel.
Needs a really BIG turbo....lol.
hey. Hurry up he gotta piss
I've been around and worked on many a car and this is the first time I've ever heard of burnishing the brakes. Never seen it done from a garage or anywhere else. I do believe all your doing is prematurely wearing them out. It is always good to test drive to make sure they are working but that's it. Not even in car repair manuals say to do that. You go out and start over heating the pads and you will loose braking efficiency. You will put a glaze on the pads. Once you do that they are scrap.
Here is a link to Wagners guidelines on the burnishing process. The actual process can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. www.wagnerbrake.com/technical/technical-tips/break-in.html also Raybestos says same thing www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybestos_installation_tips.php
after looking a the wagner link I still wouldn't do that to the brake pads. All your doing is glazing the pads, no good. You ever hear of brake fade. if you feel it's necessary then do it. Personally I would never let anyone do that to my brake pads. Your just looking for a brake failure accident.
Been doing it for years and even on semis, it has not been an issue. It gives more consistent brake performance.
Shame you don't have to shop big enough to pull this car inside to work on it.
When working on greasy car mechanic jobs you should wear clothes that don't show the grease stains.
New Mercedes are junk. But has they’re ever been a car that was built better than these? IMHO no.
I knew a man whose jack failed with him under the car, and it sounds like a bad way to go. Jack stands are cheap and easy insurance.
Except Brian wasn't under the car.
Tire could be under the car frame, out of the shot. That's what I do for wheel-off work and don't expect to have to get under it. Keeps the tire out of the way, and it will catch it if needed. Use the wheel cover as a dish to hold the lugs, and put that with the tire also. That way you don't accidentally kick your nuts...
He had his head under it with the impact.