U know watching people like u inspire me do better.i wasted most my life on drugs and I'm year clean and don't have nothing other than working at hotel for ruff and food.i work hard but need better job but thank u for video and God bless man!
I feel like most of the time people don't pay attention to the little things in life and the small victories. If you wake up every day and learn to appreciate things for what they are and not what you think they should be things get much better. Congrats on turning your life around. I hope you continue to watch and get inspiration and hopefully get your own projects to work on and enjoy. Happy hot rodding and thank you for watching.
Stay with it John, you're on the right track! It took me years to get to where I am(14yrs)..keep moving forward and remember the hard times ahead are just experience. Burndown, lovin' the info! New LS guy here. Thanks!
@@johnbrooks2122 one foot in front of the other, bro.. moving ever forward. The human spirit and will are the strongest forces of all!! Network, and keep at it, and you’ll get where you need to be!!! 💪🏼
Probably from pressure washing it to clean for painting. Simple way to keep water out of the motor if being stored outside is to loosen all the rockers so that no valves are open.
Yes this would make sense. I never did pull the other head so I would imagine it that was the case a cylinder on bank one would have the same issue I bet.
In addition to the pushrod check, When the engine is in the car/truck at junkyard - Try turn it over with breaker bar, if thats ok - remove spark plugs look in with borescope, if thats ok - remove intake and valley cover and look in valley openings with borescope to inspect the camshafts. Or just take the engine out and take it home LOL. Stay gold.
Would have saved a bunch of time using a cheap bore scope off amazon and checking the cylinders first. Especially if your in a junk yard pulling the motor and not at home with the engine out and accessories already off. I appreciate the insite on what to look for. Are you looking for the same things for Gen 4 and 5?
It really does depend on what you want and where you are according to your budget. I think people need to really think things through before going in a direction. Most would hard pass this I on the other hand probably would work with it. A machine shop for me to clean and check it is about the cost of finding another motor. Obviously a pretty messed up block I would chuck it's beyond sleeveing but a good cleaning for the day can tell a lot more than than trying to find an already "cherry" motor. I've seen some pretty ass looking engines and they clean up fine but yeah it really depends on the person of the project.
For this particular project I want a better motor. It's a 5.3 and I can get them a dime a dozen so its not worth the hassle. If it was a great deal and it was for me and I didn't car yeah I would dingle ball it and send it 🤣
@@Burndown Yeah. I've also seen people keep throwing away stuff hoping to stumble upon the perfect junky gem and never actually get anywhere lol. It really does depend on the person I think. I only mention because people get scared and will keep passing on stuff that's ok looking for something perfect. Just in general, nothing personal on this video itself I mean. 🙂
@@Burndown On top of that it's especially critical if you are doing it for someone else. No one wants to give the other person more work or cost them extra either, that's understandable.
@@CanadaBud23 Yeah at a certain point you have to realize it a used motor. They are pretty bullet proof for the most part too. It all depends of price and effort really. If you go back to my first motor I swapped in the boom I payed 60$ for it and threw a cam in it and ran it and that motor is in some other car running today still haha.
As for the bolt size and torque specs, that is exactly how things are engineered. Different duties require a certain bolt diameter, thread pitch, thread length, bolt length, hardness, etc. depending on the job. It is almost equivalent to saying that on average, a home's size is proportional to the family size. Engineers use equations to figure that all out. But good eye to catch that on your own!
Nothing wrong with that little bit of rust. Hell on marine engines they will just bore one cylinder and as long as you balance the piston and rod to the rest it’s all good. I wouldn’t be happy if I paid a premium for it but that wouldn’t stop a rebuild/refresh for any shop I’ve worked at. 30+ years experience.
He wanted something he could just throw some bearings at and go. This motor would be fine for a rebuild im sure but I ended up getting a running 5.3 for him that I pulled out of a project truck.
I'm inspired to go LS in my 1990 obs Chevy, I have stuck with the cast iron engines but it's time for an upgrade thanks man keep posting more videos it a great deal of info for those want to learn
I'll say this even if there's rust in every cylinder it could spin over. My old motor sat out in weather for 2 yrs and was full of water and rust and spun right over.. the whole motor could easily be ball honed and put back together and work great. If it still has stuff and you already stuck with it then you will have to have it bored which 4.8/5.3 have a lot of bore room
I think this motor was fine for what I would do with it but when its not for me I would like to see a clean motor since they are so easy to come by. He ended up buying a corvette motor... go figure 😆
A dingle ball hone would work that rust ring out just fine.. Unless the cylinder wall has some legitimate serious pitting after clean up it doesn't need a machine shop, that just puts more money into it for rings maybe even pistons if the shop wants to f#ck you good your looking at an extra 1000$ for a junkyard buil ls.
Another thing with these is if the bearing aren’t trashed then just measure and reuse them. They are to right from the factory anyways at .001. I’d rather see .0025-.003 on the crank and rods if it’s going to see any RPM or added power over stock.
I'm one to just change the bearings and rings anyway I'd probably use it myself though I'd go at least .020 over stock bore and bring the compression back
The plan was to tear it down and throw some gaskets and bearings at it for a build my buddy was working on. If it was just for fun and something that I owned I would have considered just sending it after cleaning it up.
Okay, LS engines are new to me. My biggest question is, I've seen several people do this when they're inspecting the engine and they look at the push rods, they see somewhere, but when they pulled the push rides l, they bunch Em together back when I worked on them, you had to keep an in order. In order to put him back where they came from, is this not true on l? S engines
Hello, I have yukon 5.3 v8 2008 with 4L60E transmission, and DOD DELETED and I will add in my yukon: 1-long tube HEADERS (Speed engineer) 2-cold air intake(volant) 3-full system exhaust with Y pipe The qustaion Is which cam should I buy to make more hp and tq: 1-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS CAM Or 2-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS NSR CAM Another qustaion do I have buy valve springs and pushrods? Thanks a lot and you are helping the people who want to get more hp and tq in thiers cars
Its not that hard. Watch Sloppy Mechanics and he breaks motors down on the channel. The LS is a pretty simple motor to tear down and put together. Good luck with your build!
Oh yeah I like Fe Ford motors too but I have not used one but did own a built Ford 400 big block 79 bronco motor not a modified motor from factory.even had 400 heads
I like working on vehicles but have yet to do a complete teardown. Ive assisted my older brother griwning up ive picked up a thing or two. I can do mostvthings but not an overhaul. Recently ive lifted an 20114x4 and a 2007 gmc 2wd. I would like to get in deep into overhauling and programming ECMs.
You passed in this block because of one damaged cylinder and said it can be fixed by honing it out. I’ve seen honing done on almost every rebuild/upgrade video I’ve watched while researching this process. Would boring it out be out of the question fir this block as well? If I do find a block with a similar issue and wanted to keep going, what would be the next thing to observe as a definite deal breaker?Great video. Very informative explanations of what to look for in a junkyard motor. I am going to do my first ever teardown and rebuild this fall and I’m shopping the junkyard for a LS currently!
I passed because it was for a friend and not me. If it were mine I would just dingle ball hone it and send it haha.The definite deal breaker is the cam bearings. If you pull the cam out and the bearings come out with the cam the block is junk.
This is a good tip. I do put a bit of grese on the threads of the puller. I have ruined one before from running an impact on it. Chewed up the threads pretty good.
Have a question for you. On the bottom side of the block where the pan bolts on, are those freeze plugs. Looks to be 4 on each side. I have a 5.3 that is leaking oil out of one of them and I want to make sure it's not a boat anchor.
lol "chingadero" 😆 Been watching some of your uploads and I'm really liking your channel. Clear instructions, solid advice, and overall great content with a goal in mind. Totally subscribed 🤙😎
This was supposed to be a slap it together and run it type of motor. It wasn't for me so I passed on it for that reason. If it was for me I would have thrown a hone down it, slapped it together and and let it rip haha
Any junk yard/used engine build. Pull everything, hot tank the block & heads, then start your rebuild from a fresh foundation. Not a big expense for the piece of mind. o7 Great video.
Main thing would be to spin the thing over before you do anything. I feel like we did that before I even brought it home but since it came from a buddy I was over confident this one was good 😆
I’m swapping my 1995 Trans Am LT1 for a 6.0 from a 2006 express 3500 van. Like most people, it’s the wiring that intimidates me. Any tips or advice/thoughts since you’ve done many of them?
Terminator X from Holley is my go to. You can use a factory computer to try to save money but you'll need to pay for a tune so factor that into your decision.
Fast plug and play, that is definitely the best way. You will need some relays for your fans and a/c . They come with easy to fallow instructions and set up.
Thanks for the video, just what I needed. My Comp Cam started to shed metal on most of its lobes. We think it made the relief valve in my oil pump stick full open because now I have no oil pressure. Im doing this to mine on Monday. Fully forged LQ9 390ci. My first time opening an engine. After the block gets back from the machine shop I'll be putting it back together with new bearings throughout, new rings, lifters, and whatever we see that it needs. You think I should get a new double springs kit while the heads are getting refreshed? How about new rockers and push rods?
No sorry. I tore this one down and it ended up bing ugly so I didnt want to use it. You could probably get away with throwing some cam bearings and new main and rods in it and running a ball hone real quick and slapping it back together if its for a project car. Ifs its a DD I would take it to a machine shop if your not sure.
Its in the back yard for a bit so I can get the short bed done first. That truck will take quite a while to do and the guy with the short bed has been waiting on me for quite a while so im squeezing him in.
Any cam is going to do well. If its just to drive around I would sacrifice a bit of HP and do a truck style cam for the TQ down low so its more fun to drive.
seriously don't ask him. When spec'g a cam there are a lot of things to consider like ; what will the engine be used for, street, strip, combination. Automatic or manual shift? rpm range you want to be in or where the engine is most of the time, driveability, torque converter, rear end (differential) gears, power adders forced induction (turbo, super or no2) are you starting to get the picture?
I won't call them boring it's just not typically my cup of tea lol, I am more of a fan of gen 1 and 2 SBC, and Oldsmobile and pushrod Chrysler v8 like the magnum 318 5.2 litre motors but LS 4.8,5.3,5.7,6.0,6.2 motors can be quite nasty in the right vehicle and combination
Ill do a video when im done with it. Maybe we can take it around the block and ill review it. Im a little afraid to drive it tho because its above my pay grade even tho im the guy that made it nice 😆
if you're hunting junk yards for engines invest in a cheapo bore camera, it will save you a lot of wasted time but that engine right there if I had it I'd disassemble it, hone the cylinders to clean them up and send it...
I got this motor form a friend. I would not have pulled a bright orange painted motor for that reason alone haha. Good tip on the bore camera tho. Never thought of that.
I knew this guy was a pro when I saw lube on the crank puller!! New sub great video!!! I have a e90 Bmw I'm going to LS swap learning Ls . VERY familiar with Bmw engines. just want a German ctsv lol
Can anyone explain to me what melling oil pump to go with. In my "thinking" , i shoukd use what pump my 5.3 LMG uses (high volume/high pressure) which is for the afm motor. Some people say otherwise......but why? Why woukd you NOT want to flow oil the beat possible way? I get that you need to add the couple dollar "baffle/redistribute piece" so it doesnt juat throw and splash oil, but i juat want "real works advice and explanation" on what oil oump is best for a 5.3, because i want bulletproof/MORE than enough oil and pressure for life. Lol thanks, ✌️
The high flow ones can pump the pan out before the oil returns back to the pan. The problem gets worse if you have a swap pan with less oil. Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1k rpm. So 20 lb min at 2000 rpm and so on. Hope that helps
@@Burndown that does help. Thankyou. I appreciate it. So which one would you recommend for a 4.8 or 5.3 "mild build" , that I want in the 3-400hp range, possibly a small turbo in future , but overall bulletproof longevity wise? (focusing on high quality camshaft and cam components/lifters/trunnion/oiling system/etc. ) been reading up on what the guys that drift or boat race do with their oil since their engines are sideways all the time...lol thanks man.
im interested in doing my first ls build or rebuild depending on what I can find atm. I live in Texas. Do you have any tips? Really enjoyed this video and your energy. Thanks!
Have a plan of what you would like to do. If its just a learning exercise then build whatever is cheap so if you mess it up its not a big a deal. The LS platform is pretty straight forward so you'll be fine. Go check out Sloppy Mechanics for all kinds of info on swaps.
Always be weary of 706 casting heads with battery symbol under rockers they crack really easy so if u do use them have them pressure tested Always the engine builder I work for junks these and won't even put them on a rebuild
Great stuff man thanks I love your channel and your ways of showing and explaining 👍 and u ain't cussing every other word like a damn fool thanks for good clean stuff 👍
Thanks Jack! I have a 6 year old son so I just keep it in dad mode. If you go way back to some of my older stuff I had less of a filter but at this point I figured he can watch the videos and other guys with kids can watch them as well. I slip up form time to time but we all do 😆 Thanks for watching!
No not this one. I wanted one that I could throw some bearings in and go. This was a lot uglier than I like. It could be rebuilt tho or probably even run. It was going to a friend so I didn’t want to chance it.
that thing shouldn't be anywhere near that hard to spin with the heads off. They should spin by hand from the pulley. The amount of funk in there ... hard pass!
I know this is an old video but heart my sank for you when the head came off and there was rust in there. If it had been started up like that that carbon and rust would not be good on the cylinder walls. If someone had wanted to continue with this cleaning and vacuuming the cylinder and head before moving the crank would be the way to do it. But for the cost of materials, gaskets and time why? The silicone on the water pump is also a red flag. 🙁
Soak the cylinders in white vinegar and you'll get the rust right out of those cylinders and clean them up and you'll have a better idea what you are working with.
never heard of that but I bet it works. I know you can soak chrome parts in wood bleach and it will take the rust off chrome. Its a good trick for chrome parts.
I don't know of a junk yard that will let you take the motor apart and then not buy it...... every yard iv'e been to already have them pulled and you can twist the crank a few times and then buy or not
We have self service yards out here that you can take a motor apart at if you want. I get most of mine from a core supplier that will take them apart for me to inspect. It’s definitely cool to be able to pull a cam out and know the bearings stay in the block
Yeah the Lime Kandy Gold didn't hold up in the sun very well. I know Pink and Magenta will fade as well. Im gonna do a lime peral color next time and clear the whole car. It will get re done before RMRW 2023. For now im gonna run it. If I have time at some point maybe well scuff it and hammer it out again.
I thought it would add some HP but guess not. HAHA . It was a smoking deal on a motor/trans combo so its not the end of the world. I agree tho the paint was pretty spectacular
Thank you! Welcome to BurnDown! I post every week as much as I have time for. If you have questions or anything feel free to comment and I get back to all the comments as well!
I agree with you and I think it would probably work out but since its going to a friend I just don want to get a call saying the junk motor was junk haha
The plan was to find a good running stater motor for him. If it were for myself I would use this one but its for my friend Larry so I passed up on it since its just a 5.3. I agree with you tho.
Yes. Another good lesson to look out for. If it has paint in it it’s probably been out of a vehicle before. Unopened motors are usually the best candidates
Ok I said Crank sensor instead of Cam sensor so nice catch. Its hard to walk and chew gum 😆
U know watching people like u inspire me do better.i wasted most my life on drugs and I'm year clean and don't have nothing other than working at hotel for ruff and food.i work hard but need better job but thank u for video and God bless man!
I feel like most of the time people don't pay attention to the little things in life and the small victories. If you wake up every day and learn to appreciate things for what they are and not what you think they should be things get much better. Congrats on turning your life around. I hope you continue to watch and get inspiration and hopefully get your own projects to work on and enjoy. Happy hot rodding and thank you for watching.
Stay with it John, you're on the right track! It took me years to get to where I am(14yrs)..keep moving forward and remember the hard times ahead are just experience. Burndown, lovin' the info! New LS guy here. Thanks!
@@avguystvhangers4053 thank u and God bless u and ur family!
@@johnbrooks2122 one foot in front of the other, bro.. moving ever forward. The human spirit and will are the strongest forces of all!! Network, and keep at it, and you’ll get where you need to be!!! 💪🏼
Man keep digging you got this
Probably from pressure washing it to clean for painting. Simple way to keep water out of the motor if being stored outside is to loosen all the rockers so that no valves are open.
Yes this would make sense. I never did pull the other head so I would imagine it that was the case a cylinder on bank one would have the same issue I bet.
I really appreciate how organic and humble this man is. Thank you
I appreciate that!
@@Burndownwhat type of harness do u use when u do ls swaps ?
In addition to the pushrod check, When the engine is in the car/truck at junkyard - Try turn it over with breaker bar, if thats ok - remove spark plugs look in with borescope, if thats ok - remove intake and valley cover and look in valley openings with borescope to inspect the camshafts. Or just take the engine out and take it home LOL.
Stay gold.
🙌
Would have saved a bunch of time using a cheap bore scope off amazon and checking the cylinders first. Especially if your in a junk yard pulling the motor and not at home with the engine out and accessories already off. I appreciate the insite on what to look for. Are you looking for the same things for Gen 4 and 5?
This is the best most informative LS teardown video I have seen. I appreciate as I am a beginner with these things.
You’re a lucky man, look at that nice sun and t shirt weather to work on a LS in your own driveway
For all the BS we have to put up with in CA weather is usually not one
Nice car! I'm building a 1970 Chevy Monte Carlo. Decided to get a 6.0 LS but definitely have a lot of work to do. Great video!
Thank you! You got this!
It really does depend on what you want and where you are according to your budget. I think people need to really think things through before going in a direction. Most would hard pass this I on the other hand probably would work with it. A machine shop for me to clean and check it is about the cost of finding another motor. Obviously a pretty messed up block I would chuck it's beyond sleeveing but a good cleaning for the day can tell a lot more than than trying to find an already "cherry" motor. I've seen some pretty ass looking engines and they clean up fine but yeah it really depends on the person of the project.
For this particular project I want a better motor. It's a 5.3 and I can get them a dime a dozen so its not worth the hassle. If it was a great deal and it was for me and I didn't car yeah I would dingle ball it and send it 🤣
@@Burndown Yeah. I've also seen people keep throwing away stuff hoping to stumble upon the perfect junky gem and never actually get anywhere lol. It really does depend on the person I think.
I only mention because people get scared and will keep passing on stuff that's ok looking for something perfect. Just in general, nothing personal on this video itself I mean. 🙂
@@Burndown On top of that it's especially critical if you are doing it for someone else. No one wants to give the other person more work or cost them extra either, that's understandable.
@@CanadaBud23 Yeah at a certain point you have to realize it a used motor. They are pretty bullet proof for the most part too. It all depends of price and effort really. If you go back to my first motor I swapped in the boom I payed 60$ for it and threw a cam in it and ran it and that motor is in some other car running today still haha.
Very informative brotha, I actually enjoyed it lol gettin ready to fool wit my ol cateye 5.3, Preciate the help along the way man 🖖🏼😎
Glad I could help
As for the bolt size and torque specs, that is exactly how things are engineered. Different duties require a certain bolt diameter, thread pitch, thread length, bolt length, hardness, etc. depending on the job. It is almost equivalent to saying that on average, a home's size is proportional to the family size. Engineers use equations to figure that all out. But good eye to catch that on your own!
Your explanation makes sense. Thank you for explaining!
Nothing wrong with that little bit of rust. Hell on marine engines they will just bore one cylinder and as long as you balance the piston and rod to the rest it’s all good. I wouldn’t be happy if I paid a premium for it but that wouldn’t stop a rebuild/refresh for any shop I’ve worked at. 30+ years experience.
He wanted something he could just throw some bearings at and go. This motor would be fine for a rebuild im sure but I ended up getting a running 5.3 for him that I pulled out of a project truck.
I'm inspired to go LS in my 1990 obs Chevy, I have stuck with the cast iron engines but it's time for an upgrade thanks man keep posting more videos it a great deal of info for those want to learn
I'll say this even if there's rust in every cylinder it could spin over. My old motor sat out in weather for 2 yrs and was full of water and rust and spun right over.. the whole motor could easily be ball honed and put back together and work great. If it still has stuff and you already stuck with it then you will have to have it bored which 4.8/5.3 have a lot of bore room
I think this motor was fine for what I would do with it but when its not for me I would like to see a clean motor since they are so easy to come by. He ended up buying a corvette motor... go figure 😆
A dingle ball hone would work that rust ring out just fine.. Unless the cylinder wall has some legitimate serious pitting after clean up it doesn't need a machine shop, that just puts more money into it for rings maybe even pistons if the shop wants to f#ck you good your looking at an extra 1000$ for a junkyard buil ls.
He just wanted to get a good used one and thrown some bearings and oil pump and some seals it and go. So this is not the motor for that. IMO
Another thing with these is if the bearing aren’t trashed then just measure and reuse them. They are to right from the factory anyways at .001. I’d rather see .0025-.003 on the crank and rods if it’s going to see any RPM or added power over stock.
This is a great video man!! Not slot of people take apart or put engines back together! Cool to see!!
They do you just don't watch them because your too busy doing burnouts in the nova
I'm one to just change the bearings and rings anyway I'd probably use it myself though I'd go at least .020 over stock bore and bring the compression back
Why couldn't you have hooked up a starter to do a compression test?
The plan was to tear it down and throw some gaskets and bearings at it for a build my buddy was working on. If it was just for fun and something that I owned I would have considered just sending it after cleaning it up.
Okay, LS engines are new to me. My biggest question is, I've seen several people do this when they're inspecting the engine and they look at the push rods, they see somewhere, but when they pulled the push rides l, they bunch Em together back when I worked on them, you had to keep an in order. In order to put him back where they came from, is this not true on l? S engines
Hello,
I have yukon 5.3 v8 2008 with 4L60E transmission, and DOD DELETED and I will add in my yukon:
1-long tube HEADERS (Speed engineer)
2-cold air intake(volant)
3-full system exhaust with Y pipe
The qustaion Is which cam should I buy to make more hp and tq:
1-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS CAM
Or
2-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS NSR CAM
Another qustaion do I have buy valve springs and pushrods?
Thanks a lot and you are helping the people who want to get more hp and tq in thiers cars
Texas speed is the place to go and no springs unless the lift is huge
I need a video with the full break down lol awesome video by the way, gonna give it a shot on taking mine apart !
Its not that hard. Watch Sloppy Mechanics and he breaks motors down on the channel. The LS is a pretty simple motor to tear down and put together. Good luck with your build!
Watching this videos gets me hyped to learn how to work on this engines! The way i see it i have the rest of my life to learn one more skill!
Thats awesome
Oh yeah I like Fe Ford motors too but I have not used one but did own a built Ford 400 big block 79 bronco motor not a modified motor from factory.even had 400 heads
I like working on vehicles but have yet to do a complete teardown. Ive assisted my older brother griwning up ive picked up a thing or two. I can do mostvthings but not an overhaul. Recently ive lifted an 20114x4 and a 2007 gmc 2wd. I would like to get in deep into overhauling and programming ECMs.
I love your old school chevy truck in your video
Thank you!
You passed in this block because of one damaged cylinder and said it can be fixed by honing it out. I’ve seen honing done on almost every rebuild/upgrade video I’ve watched while researching this process. Would boring it out be out of the question fir this block as well? If I do find a block with a similar issue and wanted to keep going, what would be the next thing to observe as a definite deal breaker?Great video. Very informative explanations of what to look for in a junkyard motor. I am going to do my first ever teardown and rebuild this fall and I’m shopping the junkyard for a LS currently!
I passed because it was for a friend and not me. If it were mine I would just dingle ball hone it and send it haha.The definite deal breaker is the cam bearings. If you pull the cam out and the bearings come out with the cam the block is junk.
@@Burndowndamn how fucked up would it have to be for that to happen 😂
as crazy as it sounds they make a socket set they every socket is 2 sizes one standered and one metric it's different but it works if u need it
That is crazy
Impact on a puller or a spring compressor is a no no. But if you must at least grease the threads guys.
This is a good tip. I do put a bit of grese on the threads of the puller. I have ruined one before from running an impact on it. Chewed up the threads pretty good.
Awesome content brother glad to see videos pop back up.
We back!
was stored somewhere damp and that cylinders intake valve was open
Im blaming the chevy orange color
When I sent my heads to the machine shop for a valve job, they were painted like the ones in the vid.
Chevy orange is not my color haha
Have a question for you. On the bottom side of the block where the pan bolts on, are those freeze plugs. Looks to be 4 on each side. I have a 5.3 that is leaking oil out of one of them and I want to make sure it's not a boat anchor.
If it’s leaking oil it has oil so I guess that’s good. Hopefully just a bad gasket
lol "chingadero" 😆
Been watching some of your uploads and I'm really liking your channel. Clear instructions, solid advice, and overall great content with a goal in mind.
Totally subscribed 🤙😎
Welcome to BurnDown! I have lots of content on here and put out as much as I can on both of my projects. Thank you for the Sub!
So if your pulling rockers and rods why jot buy new ones
This was supposed to be a slap it together and run it type of motor. It wasn't for me so I passed on it for that reason. If it was for me I would have thrown a hone down it, slapped it together and and let it rip haha
are you not worried about keeping the pushrods in order?
No not really. I mostly look to see that they are straight and not plugged up and that both ends are shiny smooth and not dull or scored at all.
@@Burndown it also might be worth checking the length, if you care about the Valvetrain
Any junk yard/used engine build. Pull everything, hot tank the block & heads, then start your rebuild from a fresh foundation. Not a big expense for the piece of mind. o7 Great video.
Good advice
Great video! You handled that “chingadera” like a champ. 😎
Main thing would be to spin the thing over before you do anything. I feel like we did that before I even brought it home but since it came from a buddy I was over confident this one was good 😆
I’m swapping my 1995 Trans Am LT1 for a 6.0 from a 2006 express 3500 van. Like most people, it’s the wiring that intimidates me. Any tips or advice/thoughts since you’ve done many of them?
Terminator X from Holley is my go to. You can use a factory computer to try to save money but you'll need to pay for a tune so factor that into your decision.
Fast plug and play, that is definitely the best way. You will need some relays for your fans and a/c . They come with easy to fallow instructions and set up.
Thanks for the video, just what I needed. My Comp Cam started to shed metal on most of its lobes. We think it made the relief valve in my oil pump stick full open because now I have no oil pressure. Im doing this to mine on Monday. Fully forged LQ9 390ci. My first time opening an engine. After the block gets back from the machine shop I'll be putting it back together with new bearings throughout, new rings, lifters, and whatever we see that it needs. You think I should get a new double springs kit while the heads are getting refreshed? How about new rockers and push rods?
Did you say" Bob's your Uncle"?
Yep
I have a LS 5.3 from a junk yard and I’d like to rebuild it do you have a video with more Specifications?
No sorry. I tore this one down and it ended up bing ugly so I didnt want to use it. You could probably get away with throwing some cam bearings and new main and rods in it and running a ball hone real quick and slapping it back together if its for a project car. Ifs its a DD I would take it to a machine shop if your not sure.
@@Burndown thank you 🙏
Thanks for harmonic balancer, puller hack! 😅
I have a depstech camera that connects to my phone. pull plugs at the yard throw the camera in spark plug holes and see whats whats.
Thanks Dane, excellent video, really enjoyed it, keep up the great work.
Thank you Paul!
Hey Dude what happened to the patina ute that was in the carport
Its in the back yard for a bit so I can get the short bed done first. That truck will take quite a while to do and the guy with the short bed has been waiting on me for quite a while so im squeezing him in.
i just bought a 1999 silverado and dont know anything about ls engines. im a xj guy know a lot about the 4.0L.
LS Motors are the best bang for buck you can get IMO
What cam would you recomend on something like this. A 5.3, no turbo just to get the most out of it with basic setup
Any cam is going to do well. If its just to drive around I would sacrifice a bit of HP and do a truck style cam for the TQ down low so its more fun to drive.
seriously don't ask him. When spec'g a cam there are a lot of things to consider like ; what will the engine be used for, street, strip, combination. Automatic or manual shift? rpm range you want to be in or where the engine is most of the time, driveability, torque converter, rear end (differential) gears, power adders forced induction (turbo, super or no2) are you starting to get the picture?
Dumb question: but if i get lets say a 01 5.3 with a 4wd transmission. I cant just swap the transmission to a 2wd right ?
You would have to do other things to swap from a 4wd to a 2wd transmission
@@Burndown I ended up getting a 2wd to avoid all the fuss .
I'm 18 and loving this auto world. Thanks for teaching me here with this video. Subscribing 🙂
Thank you James
Would looking at the plugs tell you anything?
If it was in a car yeah if its out like this probably not.
It ingested some water or coolant.
Probably water yes.
What is the name of the black piece you had a problem with pulling out that was bolted in the front of the block , the little black piece .
The balancer?
I won't call them boring it's just not typically my cup of tea lol, I am more of a fan of gen 1 and 2 SBC, and Oldsmobile and pushrod Chrysler v8 like the magnum 318 5.2 litre motors but LS 4.8,5.3,5.7,6.0,6.2 motors can be quite nasty in the right vehicle and combination
Is it a cast or aluminum block?
This is an iron block
More info on the C10 in the garage.
Ill do a video when im done with it. Maybe we can take it around the block and ill review it. Im a little afraid to drive it tho because its above my pay grade even tho im the guy that made it nice 😆
if you're hunting junk yards for engines invest in a cheapo bore camera, it will save you a lot of wasted time but that engine right there if I had it I'd disassemble it, hone the cylinders to clean them up and send it...
I got this motor form a friend. I would not have pulled a bright orange painted motor for that reason alone haha. Good tip on the bore camera tho. Never thought of that.
So Dane nice C10 in the garage! You didn't sell my Mustang did ya?
Its at the interior shop
@@Burndown Awesome
What's hard to watch is you not using a simple tripod to film. There like 15 bucks, Like your stuff.
I knew this guy was a pro when I saw lube on the crank puller!! New sub great video!!! I have a e90 Bmw I'm going to LS swap learning Ls . VERY familiar with Bmw engines. just want a German ctsv lol
Ls swapped BMW’s look fun! Thanks for the sub!
Please do a reliable 400/450 hp (aluminum block) to the wheels engine combo that could live in a drift car if possible that would be dope!
@@Burndown
Can anyone explain to me what melling oil pump to go with. In my "thinking" , i shoukd use what pump my 5.3 LMG uses (high volume/high pressure) which is for the afm motor. Some people say otherwise......but why? Why woukd you NOT want to flow oil the beat possible way? I get that you need to add the couple dollar "baffle/redistribute piece" so it doesnt juat throw and splash oil, but i juat want "real works advice and explanation" on what oil oump is best for a 5.3, because i want bulletproof/MORE than enough oil and pressure for life. Lol thanks, ✌️
The high flow ones can pump the pan out before the oil returns back to the pan. The problem gets worse if you have a swap pan with less oil. Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1k rpm. So 20 lb min at 2000 rpm and so on. Hope that helps
@@Burndown that does help. Thankyou. I appreciate it. So which one would you recommend for a 4.8 or 5.3 "mild build" , that I want in the 3-400hp range, possibly a small turbo in future , but overall bulletproof longevity wise? (focusing on high quality camshaft and cam components/lifters/trunnion/oiling system/etc. ) been reading up on what the guys that drift or boat race do with their oil since their engines are sideways all the time...lol thanks man.
@@DwightKShrute Melling m295 will work fine for what your doing.
im interested in doing my first ls build or rebuild depending on what I can find atm. I live in Texas. Do you have any tips? Really enjoyed this video and your energy. Thanks!
Have a plan of what you would like to do. If its just a learning exercise then build whatever is cheap so if you mess it up its not a big a deal. The LS platform is pretty straight forward so you'll be fine. Go check out Sloppy Mechanics for all kinds of info on swaps.
@@Burndown awesome thanks. just got my hands on a LM7 5.3 and it came with a 2005 tahoe. cant wait to tear it up!
@@Sean-zc3ivhow is it going?
@@MOE13576 its going good so far. thanks for asking. Rebuilt the 4l60e now im waiting for more funds to do the engine!
@@Sean-zc3iv that's great. What part of Texas are you from ?...I hear you..And you're welcome by the way
Caught me off guard when homie said “Take off the ol CHINGADERA”😂😂
It’s a technical term 🤣
@@Burndown made me follow after fs😂👌🏼
@@lsxeddie well I hope you like odd ball stuff like pacers and ram let’s and turbo Winnebagos! Welcome to the channel.
Always be weary of 706 casting heads with battery symbol under rockers they crack really easy so if u do use them have them pressure tested Always the engine builder I work for junks these and won't even put them on a rebuild
Good tip
I really enjoy your videos thank you
Thank you Clay!
Great stuff man thanks I love your channel and your ways of showing and explaining 👍 and u ain't cussing every other word like a damn fool thanks for good clean stuff 👍
Thanks Jack! I have a 6 year old son so I just keep it in dad mode. If you go way back to some of my older stuff I had less of a filter but at this point I figured he can watch the videos and other guys with kids can watch them as well. I slip up form time to time but we all do 😆 Thanks for watching!
is that a l33, lm7 or what?
LM7 the L33 is aluminum. Same displacement tho.
You said "crank" sensor. I'm sure you meant "cam" sensor.
Well at least I said I wasn't a pro before I started 🤡🤣. You know what I was saying but yes cam sensor
So the answer is to rebuild it?
No not this one. I wanted one that I could throw some bearings in and go. This was a lot uglier than I like. It could be rebuilt tho or probably even run. It was going to a friend so I didn’t want to chance it.
that thing shouldn't be anywhere near that hard to spin with the heads off. They should spin by hand from the pulley. The amount of funk in there ... hard pass!
haha yeah she's not too healthy
Learned a bunch from this! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Question, is this a truck or car engine? Thanks
Truck
I know this is an old video but heart my sank for you when the head came off and there was rust in there.
If it had been started up like that that carbon and rust would not be good on the cylinder walls.
If someone had wanted to continue with this cleaning and vacuuming the cylinder and head before moving the crank would be the way to do it. But for the cost of materials, gaskets and time why?
The silicone on the water pump is also a red flag. 🙁
It was bassicly a free motor so I figured I would dig into it and see if it would work for my friend
The real Larry wood!? I'd kill to meet him!
Yep. Hes a very nice guy and a real gear head. Ill have to see if I can chat with him on camera for you guys.
Very useful info. Thank you.
No problem! Hope it helped.
Nice job mate
🙌
Awesome video but that engine stands looking real sorry 😂 appreciate the information though!
I still have it. Hasn't quit yet. I wouldn't put a big block on it tho it would probably fold haha
Soak the cylinders in white vinegar and you'll get the rust right out of those cylinders and clean them up and you'll have a better idea what you are working with.
never heard of that but I bet it works. I know you can soak chrome parts in wood bleach and it will take the rust off chrome. Its a good trick for chrome parts.
I don't know of a junk yard that will let you take the motor apart and then not buy it...... every yard iv'e been to already have them pulled and you can twist the crank a few times and then buy or not
We have self service yards out here that you can take a motor apart at if you want. I get most of mine from a core supplier that will take them apart for me to inspect. It’s definitely cool to be able to pull a cam out and know the bearings stay in the block
Did you say 5.3... i see dished pistons 😯
This was a 5.3 from what I saw. Falt tops usually are 4.8. Some of the later model 5.3 had flat tops as well. At least the motors I have taken apart.
Did your flames change color from green to less green? Still way nicer than pre-bodywork boom.
Yeah the Lime Kandy Gold didn't hold up in the sun very well. I know Pink and Magenta will fade as well. Im gonna do a lime peral color next time and clear the whole car. It will get re done before RMRW 2023. For now im gonna run it. If I have time at some point maybe well scuff it and hammer it out again.
Your wrong about the ft/lbs it is 22 for a 8mm but it’s in newton meters (metric) so it’s 22 N/Mtr
30N should be 22#. I may be wrong but that’s what I have been doing. I’ll double check tho. Thanks foe the heads up.
@@Burndown love content by the way
My '05 Silverado went through two melling oil pumps...I'm taking it apart soon on vid...like or don't like, but subscribe to check it out. ✌
Hope you figure it out
Great vid, thanks!
No problem!
That janky paint job was your 1st red flag.
No doubt. I paint mine, but that ones ridiculous.
Krylon rebuild
@@trentdawg2832 Who paints an engine with rattle can lacquer? Same people that spray aluminum heads silver :D
I thought it would add some HP but guess not. HAHA . It was a smoking deal on a motor/trans combo so its not the end of the world. I agree tho the paint was pretty spectacular
@@notsure7874 Even the exhaust ports. I bet this thing would have looked awesome after a few heat cycles.
Engine is less sketchy than that engine stand.
I agree
Great content buddy!! Liked n Subbed!! ✊🏽💪🏽🇺🇸
Thank you! Welcome to BurnDown! I post every week as much as I have time for. If you have questions or anything feel free to comment and I get back to all the comments as well!
Good stuff!
🙌
Probably the reason many many countless men and boys turn into gear heads lol
Dingleball for sure!!!!!
I agree with you and I think it would probably work out but since its going to a friend I just don want to get a call saying the junk motor was junk haha
Ain't nothing wrong with the motor, man.
Yeah but it wasn't for me so I passed on it. He ended up getting an LS1 after I got him a good 5.3 any way so go figure haha
What does Bob's your uncle mean?
It means good to go! haha I think...
@@Burndown lmao at the I think part
Bore it .020 and throw some flat tops!
The plan was to find a good running stater motor for him. If it were for myself I would use this one but its for my friend Larry so I passed up on it since its just a 5.3. I agree with you tho.
@@Burndown yeah I get the whole budget ls build I’m not that brave! I have problems with new parts!😳
let me know how much you want for that engine
$12,000 obo …….has Texas speed bearings
It went home as a mock up motor for now and I got another 5.3 that's a runner already You in So Cal?
@@trentdawg2832 Don't Low Ball Me I Know What I Have!!! 🤣 Rust is extra!
Subscribed.
Thats what im talking about! Welcome to the channel!
Complete rattle can rebuild. It'll be fine. No, no, it won't!
It was ok till it wasn't
Larry? Larry Wood???
Yeah
@@Burndown you literally know Royalty there!
What sucks is that the paint and silver heads make it look like a good engine. Polishing a turd.
Yes. Another good lesson to look out for. If it has paint in it it’s probably been out of a vehicle before. Unopened motors are usually the best candidates
Morale of story...dont trust anyones word
The orange paint gives it away. 🤣
👍
🙌