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SBC Intake Manifold Install!!! C10 Build Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
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In this video I show how to properly install an intake manifold on a new GM Goodwrench 350 SBC crate engine. Part 3 of the C10 Build Series.
Please people that watch this video Never clearance your valve covers take them off intake fits under the valve covers perfectly in the center holes in your head are not for water those are for exhaust it's for the crossover exhaust from one head to the other two heat fuel in the carburetor and should be blocked off
Yeah, the dude is kind of a hack.
Came here to say exactly what you just said and to block the exhaust crossover just use any thing piece of metal old acetone can paint thinner can I would stay away from a soda can feel like that would eventually burn thru
Hey Guy,
One thing I was noticing when you dry fit and had the issues I noted you dry fitted without the gaskets in place which would have added height to the gap making it bigger. So when you installed with the gaskets you now have a bigger gap front and back. Which would require a bit more sealant. Having said that I am getting ready to DO just this on my 87 GMC Sierra classic. It has the computer and 305 TBI and I am going carb. The engine feels strong but the TBI has given me issues since I have owned it. Wiring now seems to be shorting in various places. Every sensor replaced as well as the computer. So back to basics. And like you I am going fairly pedestrian in HP. Less than 300hp. I have a 69 firebird for my hotrod. My truck is a truck.
HOWEVER Since I live near FT KNOX....I will wave a flag if I run into trouble. Great Video and the music is fine even for a "GET OFF MY LAWN" 60 yr old guy! Thanks for the vid.
Have any intake manifold installation horror stories? Share them below. If you liked the video make sure to check out the rest of the build series! -JRhea
When I was installing the Edelbrock 2701 on my truck, a 350-pound chick wearing skintight spandex pants walked by on the street. I've never been able to scrub that image from my mind.
@@Jerkwad152 😂😂
My truck had no gaskets when bought.Purchased some and noticed the rear water ports were blocked off except a hole on them.Egr port was blocked off too.I went crazy thinking they were wrong ones.
Your mom
Great video very accurate on your details on every step..
Thanks brother!
Done a few dozen fuel pumps over the years and never knew about that bolt hole to hold the pushrod up. Good tip
I tried that trick with my SBC 350 and the hole is not open. So no contact with the pushrod. Didn't work on my engine.
@@C10chevy85 Same with mine.
Yeah man great video. Im attempting to do this to my 70 camaro and im nervous about it ha ha
You've got it man. It's just nuts and bolts
Freaking awesome video…. But it drove me crazy with all the ummm before breath!!
Just picking brother, you done a great job explaining how you went threw the steps, awesome video!!!!
Edelbrock emailed me and said for sharing your Invoice from 2017, No Video Below, Yes Edelbrock does Suggest Gluing the Intake Gaskets to the Intake Flange on Each Cylinder Head using Gasgacinch or Fel-Pro gasket Sealer, Not RTV Silicon. Might be because mechanics are know to put to much RTV not smooth it thin like in this video. I got Edelbrock Gasgacinch. Just sharing suggestions from Edelbrock to help.
Edelbrock says 25 ft-lbs for pre 1995 small block Chevys.
That middle little one is a exhaust heat passage not water lol
Nice I'm trying to do something like this to my olds cutlass very nice i like that good job 👍
Thanks bro! Check out Part 5 where I break down the entire parts list. The cutlass is gonna be a bad ride!
@@jrhea5023 I will thanks for the info I'll keep in touch
Did you notice your 1205 gasket doesn't have the middle hole for the coolant ports? Probably should have blocked them off?
@@kCI251 the middle port is actually an exhaust crossover into the intake to help the engine warm up quicker in cooler weather. I blocked mine off, but if you haven't fel-pro #1256 is the gasket you need.
RTV on printoseal is like a drunk drinking non alcoholic beer... 💀🍿
Did you have any issues with the carburetor fitting over the vacuum fitting? My carburetor won't push down into place because it hits the manifold vacuum fitting. Any suggestions?
I just noticed you from Louisville you good at motors i see i need some help i got a 305
Question. You removed the fuel pump to get to the engine mount bolt. But you installed the fuel pump on Your new engine before install. Was this just to show the how to install or did you install with pump on and we’re still able to get to motor mount bolt? Thanks.
Correct, it was easier to show the fuel pump install with the engine out of the truck. I believe (going from memory here) when I went to pull the passenger side engine mount the bolt was installed so it had to be removed from the fuel pump side and I had to remove the pump because the bolt was so long. Double check me, but I believe if you flip the bolt around and put it in the mount from the backside with the nut facing forward it should clear the pump.
@@Josh-vx6lf Ok. Cool deal. Thanks for the reply! Take care.
I wish i could have seen this video before installing my intake. As soon as i started my truck i noticed collant ran into my oil pan and #8 cylinder.
Only thing I don't agree with is picking up the engine with carb mount lift plate on and aluminum intake could strip out threads or warp intake
I've pulled many sbc engines, ls engines, even big block engines with aluminum heads and an aluminum carb intake, some with the trans still attached, for years with no issue. I use carb studs not bolts, that is the key. It works the same way an ARP head stud works. When threaded all the way down by hand, the threads no longer take the brunt of the force, it's transfers most of the load to the stud and nut itself saving the threads in your intake (or block with ARP studs). Any problems you've heard of were most likely user error i.e. using bolts instead of studs to hold the lift plate down. Thanks for watching, and if you enjoyed please check out the series in it's entirety!
Never, ever use RTV around the intake ports. Just the water ports.
And why is that exactly?
@@jrhea5023 gasoline...that's why.
@@Trebor-gw8lt Black rtv is oil and gas resistant man, it says it right on the tube. There is absolutely nothing to worry about
@@Trebor-gw8lt The reason I like to skim all gasket surfaces on a sbc is because paper gaskets are inherently prone to leak over time. It's the reason all the gasket surfaces on an LS engine are o-ringed, just makes for a better seal longterm.
@@jrhea5023 that may be...but nobody in the industry puts RTV around the intake ports. Rock on.
Can you please tell me were you got the valve covers and timeing chain cover at i need some for my 71 chevy c10 350 motor
They are the factory valve covers and timing chain cover
I just got a Goodwrench 96-99 vortec 350 L31 R H.D 4bolt main ..going carbed
Hell yeah man, how did the swap go?
What intake bolts you used?
*JEZUS CHRIST!!* ...I think I legit got hearing damage from your freaking intro music dude!
I turn everything up to 11!
Man, been researching this and the torque specs on aluminum intakes for sbc's are all over the place. All the way from 11 ft/lbs like you do here, all the way up to 30 ft/lbs, and everything in between....
Not sure what to go with, so I'm just going to average somewhere in the 20's...
Bro here is what I have found out over the years. Its impossible to get a torque wrench on the middle 2 bolts without a crows foot attachment. And even if you did after the first heat cycle on an aluminum intake it's going to need to be re-torqued while warn anyway no matter what you set it to. So I just use a long handle wrench and get them as tight as I can for the rtv to set up. Then after first fire up and heat cycle I re-torque the same way. It's always worked for me doing it that way.
@@jrhea5023 Cool, thanks man!
@@LastBastian No problem, let me know how it goes!
@@jrhea5023 Plan on trying tonight. Funny thing, I already own two torque wrenchs, but one's too big, the other too small...
Went all over town yesterday trying to find the right one, that didn't cost $130. Bought one for $80.
Like you said, I don't know if it'll fit for those middle bolts, but I have one of those bending knuckle joint extension things...
Going to give that a try. But I didn't even think about re-torquing after it's been heated up.
@@jrhea5023 So, I was replacing gaskets on a used crate 350. The previous guy used those rubber gaskets everyone says to throw away, and sure enough they were popping out and leaking.
I made a mess with coolant, and had struggles cleaning off the old gray rtv... But finished everything up last night.
Was able to get the torque wrench on those middle bolts using a "universal joint" socket extension.
Torque recommendations were kinda all over the place, but I chose 22 ft/lbs.
Everything seems good, I'll recheck torque after a couple drives.
Thanks for the video, and tips! It was helpful...
...even if I'm now partially def from that music intro. Lol!
P.s we demolished notre dame yay
i got ear raped by your music. you were so quiet i turned my head phones up to the max. I'm deaf now
RIP eardrums
@KeweKrypto 12 lol pleb? For using headphones? Lmao projecting much
um
Ugh
16:09
Wonder why you don’t have more subscribers man
RUclips is a hard game to break into bro. I have enough watch time, I just need to get to 1k subscribers to be monetized. Maybe then I'll start up another build series or something. Thanks for the support!
Well just to let you know this video helped me get my old 88 up and running man you need to do a bunch more how to videos even if the subscribers aren’t there yet they will mount and rack up more subscribers the more videos you have I know it takes a lot of effort and time recording and breaking down the video and editing but hey man you got a good thing going bud
@@blackobs2535 Thanks man!
Where did you put your return spring bracket?
My throttle return spring is connected to my kick down cable bracket
Great vi, what size are the block off bolts?
The exhaust crossover ports have been blocked completely. The intake manifold bolt set was from Edelbrock I believe.
What about the center water port, the gasket blocked it off. Do you cut it out?
That is an exhaust crossover for factory carb heat. It was used in OEM applications to warm the carburetor up quicker in a cold start scenario. It doesn’t have any water flowing through it, but if not addressed in an aftermarket situation it will heat up the carb in warm climates. I have the exhaust crossover ports blocked for this application
This dude has no clue what he's talking about and giving bad advice about gaskets.
Why did you go carb versus injection?
Good question (I'm assuming you're asking why sbc and not ls) because I had a fully assembled ls1 sitting on an engine stand that could have went into this truck. Honestly this was easier and cheaper to have up and running than an ls engine and everything is brand new. Ls engines are great and I have a few, but it's hard to beat the cost and simplicity of a sbc up to about 450 hp for a cruiser/hot rod/daily driver. Every gearhead should be able to tune a carburetor and distributor IMO.
JRhea502 appreciate the info bro. Thanks
@@eddymarkle anytime man
@@jrhea5023 Yeah I totally agree. LS swaps are way more expensive then people say. everyone tells me I can get a junkyard 5.3 for 800 bucks for my C10, like if it only costs 800 bucks to do the swap. The only thing I don't agree with is, that every gearhead can tune a carb. I'm sure you will be ok on that though. I know if you don't already know how to tune them good, you will learn how.
@@davidcraft4909 People forget how much all the incidentals and random trips to the parts store really add up in price. SBC parts are simply cheaper than almost anything else out there. And you're right most people don't know how to tune a carb, but they should lol thanks for the watch!
how mush that engine hit you for and where did you get it from
I got it on Ebay from a dealership called Radleigh Chevrolet, I believe they are out of North Carolina if I remember right. It was right under $1800 shipped and came with a $100 Visa gift card. That was the cheapest place I found
what size are the valve cover bolts?
I'm not sure of the thread pitch but I believe from memory they are a 10mm hex head
your intro music is A TAD TOO LOUD SIR
Yes sir, it is indeed lol
For the center bolts instead of rtv can i use threadlocker
You need to use a sealant that will resist coolant. Rtv, thread sealing paste, etc. Regular loctite I don't believe will seal
@@jrhea5023 ok thanx for the info
@@amadeoheron5948 you're welcome, anytime bro
@@roberts5118 I dont have a shop im just getting started learning mechanics and im trying to learn more i asked that ? Because i've seen videos where they use loctite for almost everything im not a professional just trying to learn more stuff thanks for the feedback if you have more tips i would appreciate some knowledge
@@roberts5118 ok thanks i do have a couple of haynes repair manuals for honda, mercedez,toyota,& 2 for chevy's i just watch videos when im not doing anything to get more knowledge thank you so much
Do you live in Indiana?
Close, I live in Louisville Kentucky
@@jrhea5023 Oh ok. I am in Indiana and background and weather looks a heck of lot like here. just wondering. good job. I actually just installed an intake today on a sbc. I am kinda jealous. when i was looking for a truck, i found a deal on a gmt400 that I couldnt pass up. I still wish i had a c10 .
@@cngodfather We're practically neighbors! Hell yeah bro, you'll have to get you another one. They are only going up in value
Sexy ass Camaro!
It's a nice compliment to the truck
@@jrhea5023 I know I am late to the party here as I am rebuilding the 327 for my 68 C-20 now but I noticed the 1LE too. I have a 2012 ZL1 to complement my truck. ;) Excellent taste my friend.
@@danabbene6507 You have some great taste yourself sir! I had a 13 zl1 before the 1le and loved it. Thanks for watching man!
hey question did have to readjust ur rockers
No I didn't have to readjust the rockers