Great video. Probably the best I've seen. My buddy has a huge mill but I'd rather have my own. Already have the 30 with tons of good wood. Maple are for syrup but thinning oaks, popal, cherry and pine is doable. Plus I do have two Kubotas for my mini-farm. I believe this would pay itself in new pig pens, farrows, and a nice sugar shack. Thanks for the "little" things. That woodland seems to be the one I like right now.
Great review! My woodmizer had no blade stops. Ruined 2 blades. Lt40. Had to pull a lever to idle up. And start blade. It was very crude. It lifted the engine to tighten the drive belt. I changed it over to electric idle and a 800 dollar centrifugal clutch. Belts constantly ran loose, charging problems, hydraulic switches, etc. Glad I sold it. Still toting wood.
Good review. If you look at the specs for the 122, it says it will handle a 22" log, but makes up to 20" boards. So they are basically saying you can cut a 22" log if you make it into a cant first.
@@PopplePeople And thank you for this excellent review. I am right on the verge of pulling the trigger on one, as soon as I get a couple other tools paid off.
I agree. Have had my HM122 for 3 years now. The only thing I would add to the cons is, the discharge chute clogs quickly. At least that has been my experience. I will pick up a larger mill in the future. Overall, am very happy with mine.
I want to comment on your corrosion issue... I work in this industry and there is no replacement that's affordable for preventative maintenance. Also, what you cover your equipment with matters ... if you're using vinyl tarps or other waterproof materials that are non air permeable you are creating a greenhouse effect which is great for causing corrosion.
Good video. I just finished my DIY trailer build for my HM122 and am about ready to put the mill together and install it on the trailer. It’s been in the crate in my shed for over a year. I haven’t milled since I sold my old mill in June of last year. Ready to start making sawdust again.
As always great video we have the same mill I agree with you for the money I don’t think you can beat the HM122 we set ours up on a permanent platform with a tin roof over it sawdust is one of our biggest issues we hang a 5 gallon bucket on the bottom hinge I added a section on top side of the bucket so it catches most of the sawdust 2-3 cuts down the log it’s time to empty the permanent platform really makes a big difference thanks for sharing your thoughts
8:39 - how much tension can a log have - thats the answer! :-) I own a HM130MAX and i have the same rust issue - standing outside in the nature. Cats are peeing on etc... which disolves the paint almost. But Rust - I dont care much about. all other parts are still fine after some use.. What im a bit complaining is the stability of the sawhead on the main posts - riding up and down - the pushings wear out quickly - slag comes in which leads to head shake - at least on my mill. This is always a bit of a fight.
My Blade stopper kept falling off as well. I always say its not if you saw your log stops its when. A buddy of mine however made wooden log stops for his mill. Looking at your log that wouldnt fit, It looks like if you rolled your log a little more it might squeeze by your blade guides Sometimes You can lower your log stops an inch or so and that will let your log move that extra inch or two. Great video, I can relate to all your points.
Thanks! Yea, we’ve seen the homemade wooden ones…might make a set eventually. That log didn’t budge any more (we tried! 😝)-I think there was a bump from a branch or something that prevented it from rolling any further regardless of where the log stops were set at.
As much as I would frown at seeing it also I don't believe the rusting will be a major issue. The paint gets chipped off easily in those high wear areas as you mentioned and the rust soon sets in but it's my bet that it will not intrude very deeply into the steel at least not quickly after, it gets the patina. Thanks for the informative video. Looking into different models currently.
I love the woodland mill and just the little cons are very easy to fix or change out to something better but overall it a great mill ... Great video thank you....
That mill looks brand new. I got the 121 this May, and it looks, shall we say, dusty. My biggest issue is with the chok system. It's very difficult to keep the log square. I haven't modified mine, either, except for a few dents and bruises.
Thanks for the video I'm currently using the lucas mill I'm just wondering what's your technique to roll the heavy logs over do you just use a log grab
Since we moved the mill to our Saw Shack, we are currently designing a log bench to roll logs onto the mill (because it’s sitting quite a bit higher than the ground level now). When we filmed this video, we muscled the logs up with a cant hook-it worked well because of the leverage. Between that & the 2 of us working together, we were able to get even some pretty sizeable logs onto the bunks.
On the log stop vibrating out...put some blue...or even red Locktite on the threads. And maybe a long enough lock bolt for an extra jam nut. Use red...you just have to heat it some to break it down should you need to readjust. Ten seconds with a propane torch would do it.
I notice on your idler wheel the belt is super loose, has it always been that way? On my HM126 the idler wheel belt is super tight and ever since day one I have nothing but trouble changing blades, I have to readjust the tracking virtually everytime I change the belt and have to get on my back to make sure the adjuster goes back into the hole it rides in.
Great question! That belt has always been loose like that & we haven’t needed to do much adjusting when we change blades (we always check alignment when we do a change).
It really depends on the type of wood & how dirty it got dragging it out of the woods & to the mill. Hardwoods & dirty logs dull the blades faster. There isn’t a specific number of cuts or anything like that. Hope that helps.
Spray your mill down with automatic transmission fluid. The tarp makes it sweat. Auto trans fluid will keep everything working smooth. Diesel in a pinch
I am on site looking at the 122. Would you all do a measurement for me. Extend the log support up almost as high as it will go/// On the log clamp, back out the T handled pinch screw till tip of screw is just at clamp edge., lift/hold clamp up parallel to the log support and measure distance from log support to log clamp screw tip.. With that SCENARIO with the t screw backed all way out will the cutting upright pass???? Best; Tom
Great question…& it’s a tough one! 😝 There are a lot of factors…we have cut mainly popple & it really depends on, as you said, how green or dry it is, whether it has bark on or if it’s peeled, how dirty the outside of the log is, etc. To be honest, we haven’t really kept track of like how many logs or board feet we get per blade, & we also don’t mill every day (or even every week-the sawmill is a hobby we get to when we can). Taking a guess I’d say about every 10-12 logs or so…we have been going by “feel” & change the blade when the sawhead pushes differently/harder & the cuts get a wavy look to them (boards don’t look as clean). Hope that helps!
@@PopplePeople I will need to build a lean too, or or some sort of a building. I do not have the room to store it indoors. But I want to try and keep it covered and dry to keep the rust away.
Do yourself a favor and look at cooks mp 32 mill. It's manual but built like a tank. All welded heavy frame and rails. Ez boardwalk Jr is good as well and cheaper than the cooks .
@@PopplePeople Awesome! We appreciate you subscribing. We will be putting our review video soon. We have had the sawmill for just over a month now. The sawmill is a life changing tool for us!
Great video. Probably the best I've seen. My buddy has a huge mill but I'd rather have my own. Already have the 30 with tons of good wood. Maple are for syrup but thinning oaks, popal, cherry and pine is doable. Plus I do have two Kubotas for my mini-farm. I believe this would pay itself in new pig pens, farrows, and a nice sugar shack. Thanks for the "little" things. That woodland seems to be the one I like right now.
Thanks, John! We appreciate that! Sounds like a great piece of land! All the best to you!
Great review! My woodmizer had no blade stops. Ruined 2 blades. Lt40. Had to pull a lever to idle up. And start blade. It was very crude. It lifted the engine to tighten the drive belt. I changed it over to electric idle and a 800 dollar centrifugal clutch. Belts constantly ran loose, charging problems, hydraulic switches, etc. Glad I sold it. Still toting wood.
Thanks! Interesting to hear about your Woodmizer…wouldn’t have expected that.
Good review. If you look at the specs for the 122, it says it will handle a 22" log, but makes up to 20" boards. So they are basically saying you can cut a 22" log if you make it into a cant first.
Thanks, Eric! Yep, we caught that in the specs.
@@PopplePeople And thank you for this excellent review. I am right on the verge of pulling the trigger on one, as soon as I get a couple other tools paid off.
Thank you for the indepth and objective review of the Woodland Mill. Much appreciated! 👍
Tks! Glad you found it helpful!
I agree. Have had my HM122 for 3 years now. The only thing I would add to the cons is, the discharge chute clogs quickly. At least that has been my experience.
I will pick up a larger mill in the future.
Overall, am very happy with mine.
Great point, Troy! Agreed! We have to be cognizant about that & clean it regularly too!
I want to comment on your corrosion issue... I work in this industry and there is no replacement that's affordable for preventative maintenance. Also, what you cover your equipment with matters ... if you're using vinyl tarps or other waterproof materials that are non air permeable you are creating a greenhouse effect which is great for causing corrosion.
Thanks, Roy! We’ve got it moved into the saw shack now, so hopefully that will help too!
Good video. I just finished my DIY trailer build for my HM122 and am about ready to put the mill together and install it on the trailer. It’s been in the crate in my shed for over a year. I haven’t milled since I sold my old mill in June of last year. Ready to start making sawdust again.
Thanks! Awesome! Happy milling (soon)!
Great review, thanks for sharing your experiences. Viewers like me take this sort of input seriously when choosing how to make a sizeable investment.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
As always great video we have the same mill I agree with you for the money I don’t think you can beat the HM122 we set ours up on a permanent platform with a tin roof over it sawdust is one of our biggest issues we hang a 5 gallon bucket on the bottom hinge I added a section on top side of the bucket so it catches most of the sawdust 2-3 cuts down the log it’s time to empty the permanent platform really makes a big difference thanks for sharing your thoughts
Thanks, Jerry! We’re working on the permanent “home” for the mill right now…& you’re exactly right-the sawdust sure does pile up! 😝
8:39 - how much tension can a log have - thats the answer! :-) I own a HM130MAX and i have the same rust issue - standing outside in the nature. Cats are peeing on etc... which disolves the paint almost. But Rust - I dont care much about. all other parts are still fine after some use.. What im a bit complaining is the stability of the sawhead on the main posts - riding up and down - the pushings wear out quickly - slag comes in which leads to head shake - at least on my mill. This is always a bit of a fight.
Lol! Agreed! Thanks for sharing!
My Blade stopper kept falling off as well. I always say its not if you saw your log stops its when. A buddy of mine however made wooden log stops for his mill. Looking at your log that wouldnt fit, It looks like if you rolled your log a little more it might squeeze by your blade guides Sometimes You can lower your log stops an inch or so and that will let your log move that extra inch or two. Great video, I can relate to all your points.
Thanks! Yea, we’ve seen the homemade wooden ones…might make a set eventually. That log didn’t budge any more (we tried! 😝)-I think there was a bump from a branch or something that prevented it from rolling any further regardless of where the log stops were set at.
Owning a saw mill is a dream of mine. I appreciate the review so that i can figure out what direction to go in when buying
Go for it! If you happen to choose a Woodland Mill, we also have a series of setup videos that are helpful. Thanks for watching!
As much as I would frown at seeing it also I don't believe the rusting will be a major issue. The paint gets chipped off easily in those high wear areas as you mentioned and the rust soon sets in but it's my bet that it will not intrude very deeply into the steel at least not quickly after, it gets the patina. Thanks for the informative video. Looking into different models currently.
Hoping it won’t be an issue. Thanks!
A small carport type roof over it might be a good investment as well.
We built a saw shack for it, so it’s covered & much more protected now. Thanks!
I love the woodland mill and just the little cons are very easy to fix or change out to something better but overall it a great mill ... Great video thank you....
Thanks! We agree…the cons are minor things. We definitely love our mill!
I could "smell" the wood while I watched this. I love the smell of the carpentering phase of building wood buildings. It fuels the soul.
👍😁
I'm a Poople people;e now too. Great videos. You make a good pair with the work and narration!
Lol! Awesome & thanks!
thanks for the information! great video! I am thinking of buying a wm126 very soon.
Awesome!
That mill looks brand new. I got the 121 this May, and it looks, shall we say, dusty. My biggest issue is with the chok system. It's very difficult to keep the log square. I haven't modified mine, either, except for a few dents and bruises.
Lol! Yeah, we’ve been careful with it, touched up the paint, etc. We also use a leaf blower to clean it after each use.
Thanks for the video I'm currently using the lucas mill I'm just wondering what's your technique to roll the heavy logs over do you just use a log grab
Since we moved the mill to our Saw Shack, we are currently designing a log bench to roll logs onto the mill (because it’s sitting quite a bit higher than the ground level now). When we filmed this video, we muscled the logs up with a cant hook-it worked well because of the leverage. Between that & the 2 of us working together, we were able to get even some pretty sizeable logs onto the bunks.
On the log stop vibrating out...put some blue...or even red Locktite on the threads. And maybe a long enough lock bolt for an extra jam nut. Use red...you just have to heat it some to break it down should you need to readjust. Ten seconds with a propane torch would do it.
Thanks for the tip, George! We appreciate it!
According to locktight the red is fully released 400F. I find it brakes loose way before that. Red is a great option when near a blade.
Thanks for a good review video, bought a HM130 and just getting to know it
Thank you, & congrats! They sure are fun, aren’t they?
I intall a ball valve for cooling, it's more easy to adjust the flow
Great idea! Thanks, Mario!
I notice on your idler wheel the belt is super loose, has it always been that way? On my HM126 the idler wheel belt is super tight and ever since day one I have nothing but trouble changing blades, I have to readjust the tracking virtually everytime I change the belt and have to get on my back to make sure the adjuster goes back into the hole it rides in.
Great question! That belt has always been loose like that & we haven’t needed to do much adjusting when we change blades (we always check alignment when we do a change).
On the 2020 & newer hm122 models that idler side belt is supposed to be loose like that.
About how many cuts do you get before needing a sharpening?
It really depends on the type of wood & how dirty it got dragging it out of the woods & to the mill. Hardwoods & dirty logs dull the blades faster. There isn’t a specific number of cuts or anything like that. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the great video. We own the same mill.
That’s great! 👍
great video, thank you I did add you. so, I can see how it goes .I get my mill today i cant wait to start playing
Awesome! Thank you & congrats! Can you smell the sawdust already?!
Spray your mill down with automatic transmission fluid. The tarp makes it sweat. Auto trans fluid will keep everything working smooth. Diesel in a pinch
Thanks for the tip, Will! We appreciate it!
auto transmission fluid is the "bomb"!
I am on site looking at the 122.
Would you all do a measurement for me.
Extend the log support up almost as high as it will go///
On the log clamp, back out the T handled pinch screw till tip of screw is just at clamp edge., lift/hold clamp up parallel to the log support and measure distance from log support to log clamp screw tip..
With that SCENARIO with the t screw backed all way out will the cutting upright pass????
Best; Tom
Hi! And great question! If understanding correctly…the measurement between the log stop & clamp is only 17” 😮 (which surprised us!).
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! We appreciate it!
I know species of wood and how dry it is matters, but on average, how often do you need to change the blades?
Great question…& it’s a tough one! 😝 There are a lot of factors…we have cut mainly popple & it really depends on, as you said, how green or dry it is, whether it has bark on or if it’s peeled, how dirty the outside of the log is, etc. To be honest, we haven’t really kept track of like how many logs or board feet we get per blade, & we also don’t mill every day (or even every week-the sawmill is a hobby we get to when we can). Taking a guess I’d say about every 10-12 logs or so…we have been going by “feel” & change the blade when the sawhead pushes differently/harder & the cuts get a wavy look to them (boards don’t look as clean). Hope that helps!
@PopplePeople helps a lot thank you!
Great review, we are currently look at this model, or the harbor freight mill...
Thanks! We looked at the HF model…do yourself a favor & get the Woodland Mill. You’ll be disappointed with the HF.
@@PopplePeople I will need to build a lean too, or or some sort of a building. I do not have the room to store it indoors. But I want to try and keep it covered and dry to keep the rust away.
We have videos on our saw shack build if you want to check those out:
ruclips.net/p/PLsvJVQ8K9T8pGh_mwLt5wd78r1ac2oanN
Do yourself a favor and look at cooks mp 32 mill. It's manual but built like a tank. All welded heavy frame and rails. Ez boardwalk Jr is good as well and cheaper than the cooks .
Thanks, Will! We haven’t seen either of those “in person”…yet!
How much is the cost with shipping to Canada
Good question…not sure. You’d need to ask Woodland Mills. (Check their website.)
Great review
Thanks, Nick!
great review, contact the sawmill company with your suggestions for improvements,, they will appreciate it
Thanks!
Earned a subscriber!
Thanks! We sure appreciate it!
@PopplePeople Being a small channel, our selves we understand the plight of earning every subscription. Keep at it, and thanks for the content!
We subscribed to you & will check out your content also…& see how a WoodMizer compares to the WM!
@@PopplePeople Awesome! We appreciate you subscribing. We will be putting our review video soon. We have had the sawmill for just over a month now. The sawmill is a life changing tool for us!
For sure a game changer! We will keep an eye out for your review!
Honestamente, cual es mejor, woodland o wood Mizer
We have not used a Wood Mizer, so we cannot compare the 2.
Good chinese sawmill
We think so! It has been meeting our needs.
I want to take in bangladesh
Contact Woodland Mills & see if they can ship there.