This video answered every question I still had about Woodland Mills and band-sawmills in general. I have done a lot of research and I am very happy with the summary you have provided. Thank you very much and best of luck!!!!
I just love your videos man. The scenery there is beautiful and you do a lot of things that I like doing. Thanks for the honesty and posting your experiences with all of us.
I bought my Woodlands mill about 5 years ago for hobby and am very pleased. You might consider going to pawn shop and pick up a transit to level saw bed, as did I. A neighbor gave me an old dilapidated 24' travel trailer to which I tore off camper portion and used the trailer to put my mill upon. Works great and is portable!
Love the review, unbiased and objective. Im in Papua New Guinea and id love to have one if these. We have mostly chainsaw mills but this would be great. If only shipping was cheaper
Please keep doing what you do. I love your videos and always learn something new. Thank you for taking the time to do these videos and sharing with us.
I've had the HM126 for about a year now. Only complaint is that I didn't buy one years ago. Absolutely love it. Don't think you could make a living with this mill as there's a lot of manual work involved. For someone with their own trees and a frequent need for lumber it will pay for itself pretty quickly.
I have the one a step down from this, an HM122. I did purchase the 9hp motor and I am glad I did. I can't stress enough how well built this thing is. Quality materials and solid motor. It took about 4 hours to put together, without the foundation. We mounted ours about 12" off the ground on 4x4 post cemented in the ground. I don't recommend this for industrial use, but it really is a good unit.
After watching this, I checked the price on this mill. I was very surprised at how much less it cost than what I expected to see. I am looking at timber framing a house and workshop (among other things) in a few years, and I think this would more than pay for itself many times over. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the great insight. I've been pondering the exact same saw mill for months. Hope to purchase it before the spring thaw. Keep up the great work, its greatly appreciated.
We purchased a bandsaw mill from a company on Vancouver island that custom makes bandsaw mills comparable to a woodmizer. What an amazing investment to the farm! Definatly worth the money! Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for helping convince woodland mills to offer a trailer! I ordered a hm126 do woodlander today. I figured the cost of the trailer was worth it for faster levelling and portability.
I have my own mill also. I have run it for several years. I built mine to reside and repair a large bank barn. I agree with all of your comments. Spot on. I have sold some high end lumber. I have built other buildings with the lumber. The big advance is having you own lumber when you want it in the size you want it. The first thing I built was a building to house the mill. You should do the same. Nice video.
I was restoring my barn. Needed 6000 bf for just the roof and walls. Local lumber yard wanted $1.05 for field dried, rough pine. I had plenty or trees, I purchased a Norwood 2000. for$7000. Ended up cutting many posts, sills and beams also. Saved much more than mill costs. When figuring the cost of a chain saw mill don't forget the Dr. and chiropractor cost as they will kill your back. Very good video
Just a little tip. If you use a string level to straighten the bed in the direction of travel you can get in straight much faster. Your not looking for level your looking for a straight line of cut. After you get the table in a straight line then you can level the cross members. If the string is in the center of the cross member, the cross members can be adjusted by raising the low side and lowering the high side an equal amount. I hope this helps you out.
I've been watching your work for over 4 years. My sympathies for the lost of your Dad, when my Dad left us it was extremely difficult to continuing on out projects. He's always watching you. Now down to business, of course a mill is worth it. I've been watching your progress, could you spend that much for lumber? Beautiful work.
A great video on the choice, I believe the decision between a bandsawmill or a chainsaw mill is relative to the species of timber you are cutting , I have owned and used both, my choice for cutting hardwood like ironbark or river redgum etc is the chainsaw mill, I have 2 Westford Mills, the slabbing mill and the rail mill using the skip tooth chain , no problem, the downside using a chainsaw is the waste as in blade thickness. The bandsaw mill has a thin blade , minimal waste, but bandsaw blades do have there issues, in hardwood the teeth follow the grain therefore porpises up and down thru the log, a wavy surface, no issues with cedar or silky oak . In the end I used a starrett brand blade with a left and right cutting tooth and a raker in the middle, ground every second or so tooth off and it cut like a hot knife thru butter, left on the setup and used until the blade was past the use by date, quick and easy to sharpen with an angle grinder, just ground a sharp point on the tooth no fancy depth gauging or profiling, cost of a blade was $12 , cheap timber , I sold the bandsamill because the blade tension is critical and all I was cutting was hardwood. The Westford mills are made in Australia and are truly portable, used to cut old dead river red gums on the banks of the river , in location , my max lenght was 3 metres long, couldn't lift anything heavier, 75 mm thick, up to 3 foot wide, used a Husquvarna 3120 with modified exhaust and jetting to overcome over come running lean with the throttle power on for 3 minutes , with 6 FOOT BLADE , skip tooth 3/8 chain . the winch makes it easy just listen to the exhaust so you don't bog the motor down Walk out of a forest with my mill and the timber cut setup is a reasonable task, not difficult and you can mill logs in position , just set the rail in position with wood screws, no machinery required to lift or drag the logs to a set up mill whatever brand, how much timber are you going to cut and is it hard wood or soft wood, hope this helps, not sponsored just experience
Excellent info and timing. Researching bandsaw mills, and Woodland is on the list. Thinking that a mid to 'higher end' mill is a good way to start if 'upgrades' are too expensive later. Thanks!
I have the same mill, it's simple and easy to run, well built, no complaints from me! I set mine on blocks as low to the ground as possible but eventually raised it aprox one foot. This was to be able to clear sawdust out from underneath the bunk .. it accumulates pretty fast! This is NOT a high production mill but does a super job. When cutting TAKE YOUR TIME... One other important issue... clean the logs as best you can before cutting..., garden hose/stiff brush works well... a lot of the Fir logs I've cut have heavy bark on them... those I run the power saw along deep enough to cut through the bark and then peel it off.. takes a bit of time but saves the band saw blades. Great little mill, thoroughly recommend.
Thanks for the information and your opinion ,my brother has a portable mill ,the amount of money that would have been spent on the mahogany lumber is staggering upwards of a hundred thousand dollars. If your a wood worker you can't go wrong
Great information on the merits of a portable sawmill. I agree with your assessment that if you plan on starting up a saw milling business then a manual mill is not the way to go.
I have been using my friends Norwood and I agree very much with what you have said. I would add that more horsepower means easier cutting as does sharp blades. The trailer is fantastic! And bigger logs make for less slabs and more boards. I have a chainsaw mill but I will hire him to come over since it is not really worth the energy when he can roll in with his bandsaw mill.
Great informative review on a great bandsaw mill. Nice to see your posting again. Looking forward to your next ones on this project. Love all your other videos also. Hope to see some "off" the cabin project again. Thanks
I purchased a woodland mill after seeing yours. 2years ago. After pricing out the lumber to build my barn. I hope to build next summer. Got to finish digging out and the foundation first.
I bought one of these Mills you're right the customer support is 2nd to none I had an issue with the clutch because my RP m's were not set right 2 days later a brand new club showed up for free Excellent quality excellent people.......
I did consider going that route for my cabin but I just don't have the quality trees available to me near the cabin site. Although, hauling it all in by ATV was no fun either.
Great video. On levelling up and-or trailer beds. Anything long and narrow doesn't necessarily have good/high torsional stiffness, so still requires levelling - it just might have fewer feet, because it is stiffer over significant chunks of its length. Concrete pads has to be best way for non trailer beds.
Saving my loose change for the day I can buy a Woodland Mill. I have a oak, hickory, beech, and hard maple woods with some logs down and stacked from installing a septic leach field and opening up the landscape around our home and garden for more sunshine. Thank you.
I just found your channel recently and am currently going through the videos for wild edibles & whatnot. I just needed to come to a more current video to post and tell you exactly how much I appreciate the knowledge you are sharing with others. I've got books to read by the dozens... *But* that doesn't replace the hands on experience of seeing someone showing you what these beauties look like. So, Thank you from the bottom of my heart for giving me confidence in identifying what I have around me in the natural world. It's so difficult without a woodsman/woman or growing up with a parent to instruct you. ~Be Blessed from SW South Dakota
HI Outsider I also have the HM126 which i bought in 2013. I use it on an occasional basis and process about 10 to 15 logs a year. I use the wood for tool sheds, wood sheds an new porch etc. you did not mention so i will that with each log you cut you will get 20 or 30 gallons of sawdust. I add the sawdust to my compost heap as the wood material in the mix. Also all the “scabs” which are the pieces of wood with bark on one side get cut up into firewood. There is very little material wasted if you do a little thinking about where you can use the various products of boards, firewood and sawdust. Finally i found the local high school has an enthusiastic wood-shop teacher but no budget for wood. I keep him supplied with pine, oak, chestnut and cedar so the kids have plenty of material to work on. All at no charge of course. I have not found there to be a market for selling wood locally except for the occasional neighbor who needs a few boards. This occasionally pays for gas to run the mill. Nice video and valid insights. Pete
Looks like they make this saw with a trailer now and is probably the easiest way to level up the saw and be able to move it where you want it. Looks like that is the way to go and just build a shelter for the saw when it is parked and not being used. Thanks for the video.
I bought a small mill 15 yrs ago, and love it. I work full time, and run the mill a couple days per month, and sell enough blocking to a local business, to pay for the mill every 16 to 18 months. if you have trees, and need lumber, i highly recommend buying one.
I think your ''take'' on this is pretty straight up, I agree with what you said, specially with chainsaw mills, I cut some big cants with a chain saw mill, the gas and oil consumed, could have cut much more with a band mill, , the waste wood of the chain mill could have made some pretty decent boards with a band mill, and still cut my big cants as well,
Very well done sir! you answered all the questions I have had about portable/semi-portable saw mills. I certainly will be buying one! probably this very one you use! (The company should sponsor you one of these days =) Peace.
Don't forget the tractor. And the forks. And the trailer if you ever need to move it off your property. (the tractor) And the truck to pull it. 1/2 ton won't do it. Probably not a 3/4 either. I would love to own one too. It would only make sense if I had enough trees on my own property that I wanted to part with. And owned a tractor.
Making the base out of a channel or rectangular tube would stiffen up the track alot! Angle iron that was used is to flimsy. Also I would have built a shed of someone sort to cover up the saw during the winter and bad weather! At the same time put in a gantry crane to lift your logs on . ( Always easy to give suggestions and spend someone else 💰 I know)
I also own one of Woodland Mills' bandsaw mills, although mine is an entry level model. I would highly recommend even the small "hobbyist" version I have. Great value for the money when building my own furniture.
How is your maintenance going with your mill. I looked at different brand, and you can only buy parts from them. Mill was cheap, but the maintenance and parts were very expensive. Thanks, WG.
Good that you are happy with your bandsaw mill, its looking great! I dont have that money....I have logosol Farmers sawmill that I buy used, on "craigs list". then I buy a new Husqvqarna 390 XPG and the total cost was about 1600 $ and i tink it cut at the same speed as your bandsaw, even when i cut oak or maple. I do loose som wood with the thick saw chain wich is a 2.8 mm, milling chain. I realy like to have a woodland.... (sorry about my bad typing!) //Swede
Great video dude. I like watching your channel. I have a small off grid cabin. I bought a pre made storage shed and mounted it on an old trailer frame. I've bought several old travel trailers in rough shape. Stripped it down to the frame. Mounted some propane tanks and large water tank to move to my site. Works great. Find an old travel trailer. At least 30 feet. Strip it down and mount your saw on it. They have tandem 3500 lbs Axles. Or more. U can pull it with your tractor anywhere. Just an idea.
@The Outsider Idea- make a log rack with to hooks at each end and then set it at the bottom. Make a bracket on the opposite side of mill to attach a winch to hook to the rack and pull the logs up. Once the log is cut you can move the rack back down and load with another log
Very helpful video, thank you. In case if you’re still having difficulty levelling it, use a laser level. You might want to do it in the evening when the sun is going down and it’s easier to see, but it makes the job super easy and way more precise than trying to do it with a 4” bubble level like you are showing here. Good luck.
And if anyone else is reading this on a budget, you can use strings pulled tight over long distances to bring things to flat, if you account for the sag in the middle. There are various ways of accounting for it, but a lightweight string under heavy tension will already just solve most of it.
Excellent commentary, great production work. I have a simple suggestion, not sure you remember, I was the one suggesting a portable saw mill 18 months ago.I hate mud on my wood, dulls the tools, need to sharpen them much more often. You know this from your chainsaw experience, not telling you anything new. My suggestion would be to get a small wood chipper, not an expensive one, then cover the ground around the sawmill with the chips, spread that sawdust around too, it keeps the mud down.I helped a guy on another website, he did not understand foundations. Just like you have trouble with your sawmill, a house has the same problem going through seasons and staying level. The solution is soil dynamics, foundation engineering, which is very complicated. Basically, you need to get something stable, and that depends upon the conditions where you build. In that soil, I would suggest piers. You have rocks, so to reduce the amount of cement, you might pressure wash rocks or find clean ones in a stream bed. Add a little extra OPC and fill a sonotube, buried below the frost line. That might be difficult with so many rocks there. Believe me, it will be worth the effort, even if you can only put one pier every 16 feet. You have free wood, you can span that distance easily with a 2"x10". Most log cabin guys dig a trench, fill it with rocks and sit something on top. It always fails and the rocks need to be restacked every spring. With piers, you might still trench and stack the rocks, but get the wood up 30" off the dirt and away from the rain splash. If the rocks fall over, so what, just restack them. Piers can look ugly, so to make it look really good, use slip form. Slip form would be like getting a sonotube just 12" to 18 inches high, anything above ground, stack clean stones around the outside, fill the inside with rocks and crete. That is the easy way to make it look like masonry. I am not a mason either, but taking time to get the rocks close to each other, then pointing afterwards will work. That same idea can be done the traditional way with slip forms to create a flat face. There are a few examples on U-tube, most of them awful.Great job, good luck with all your endeavors!
By far one of the best RUclips "review' DIY videos I have ever seen. You are a talented man. Very straight to the point and very humble opinions. Did not waste anytime yammering about all kinds of nonsense. Only tip I can think of because you pretty much dotted all your i's and crossed all your t's is try to talk more natural, less robotic, You have a good voice for this you should exploit that to the fullest. Best of luck and thank you sooo much for your video I really enjoyed it.
I think the manner of speech is fine. Its clear and well enunciated. The voice is well modulated. No issues at all. In fact, its a much welcome change to the frenetic "rap" or rather yapping of easily excitable youtubers.
They now have a trailer version, which I will hopefully buy this summer. Need to buy the woodlot first. Then, its time to build a sugar shack and a cabin. Ohh the dream.
Thank you for the review, ive been wanting to get a sawmill on my property to use my own trees for lumber to build a new house. I live in Norway so we only have logosol here. Thanks for the idea to put it on a slab to align it correctly. New sub for an awesome channel :) Keep them coming :)
Woodland Mills should give you a trailer and a pack of blades, etc. for all the great PR you give them. I was on the fence about which one to buy for our land and you convinced me to get the W.M.
Just beginning my quest for knowledge in deciding between chainsaw or bandsaw mill. When I read "W.M." my initial thought was Woodmizer, haha! Oh boy, do I love some of their hydraulic models! However, I've decided I need to really seriously reel in my grandiose plans for a larger(expensive!!) model as a first mill. Looking at the Logosol F2, M8, as well as the offerings from the other mfr's. This one here looks very promising, but the insight in the video regarding the need for a trailer have me looking for an option that comes with it.
Hey Woodland Mills... build this guy a trailer!!! that was a very informative video, it gave me some insight on the questions I have had floating around in my head... after this comment Im onto the Woodland Mills website.. for real... thanks for the video...
I have had one of these in my workshop for a little while now and it's held up well. Only the consumables needed replacing.
This video answered every question I still had about Woodland Mills and band-sawmills in general. I have done a lot of research and I am very happy with the summary you have provided. Thank you very much and best of luck!!!!
I just love your videos man. The scenery there is beautiful and you do a lot of things that I like doing. Thanks for the honesty and posting your experiences with all of us.
I bought my Woodlands mill about 5 years ago for hobby and am very pleased. You might consider going to pawn shop and pick up a transit to level saw bed, as did I. A neighbor gave me an old dilapidated 24' travel trailer to which I tore off camper portion and used the trailer to put my mill upon. Works great and is portable!
Love the review, unbiased and objective. Im in Papua New Guinea and id love to have one if these. We have mostly chainsaw mills but this would be great. If only shipping was cheaper
Please keep doing what you do. I love your videos and always learn something new. Thank you for taking the time to do these videos and sharing with us.
Really good info on the differences between chainsaw and portable sawmills. Quick, to the point, and shows most of the operation of the mill.
Great video! Short informative and to the point. No blabbering. This is what all youtube videos should look like
I've had the HM126 for about a year now. Only complaint is that I didn't buy one years ago. Absolutely love it. Don't think you could make a living with this mill as there's a lot of manual work involved. For someone with their own trees and a frequent need for lumber it will pay for itself pretty quickly.
I have the same mill with the track extension. It has paid for itself several times, it is a lot of fun and extremely satisfying work.
I have the one a step down from this, an HM122. I did purchase the 9hp motor and I am glad I did. I can't stress enough how well built this thing is. Quality materials and solid motor. It took about 4 hours to put together, without the foundation. We mounted ours about 12" off the ground on 4x4 post cemented in the ground. I don't recommend this for industrial use, but it really is a good unit.
After watching this, I checked the price on this mill. I was very surprised at how much less it cost than what I expected to see. I am looking at timber framing a house and workshop (among other things) in a few years, and I think this would more than pay for itself many times over. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the great insight. I've been pondering the exact same saw mill for months. Hope to purchase it before the spring thaw. Keep up the great work, its greatly appreciated.
That value piece at the end was excellent! Thank you for that rundown of the comparisons.
We purchased a bandsaw mill from a company on Vancouver island that custom makes bandsaw mills comparable to a woodmizer. What an amazing investment to the farm! Definatly worth the money! Thanks for another great video!
Hi Phil and Hannah. Greetings from Duncan.
Thanks for helping convince woodland mills to offer a trailer! I ordered a hm126 do woodlander today. I figured the cost of the trailer was worth it for faster levelling and portability.
I have my own mill also. I have run it for several years. I built mine to reside and repair a large bank barn. I agree with all of your comments. Spot on. I have sold some high end lumber. I have built other buildings with the lumber. The big advance is having you own lumber when you want it in the size you want it. The first thing I built was a building to house the mill. You should do the same. Nice video.
Thanks! I'm in the process of deciding whether or not to buy a mill of some kind, and that pretty much covers all my questions.
I was restoring my barn. Needed 6000 bf for just the roof and walls. Local lumber yard wanted $1.05 for field dried, rough pine. I had plenty or trees, I purchased a Norwood 2000. for$7000. Ended up cutting many posts, sills and beams also. Saved much more than mill costs. When figuring the cost of a chain saw mill don't forget the Dr. and chiropractor cost as they will kill your back. Very good video
Always a pleasure to watch your videos man. You do good work.
Just a little tip. If you use a string level to straighten the bed in the direction of travel you can get in straight much faster. Your not looking for level your looking for a straight line of cut. After you get the table in a straight line then you can level the cross members. If the string is in the center of the cross member, the cross members can be adjusted by raising the low side and lowering the high side an equal amount. I hope this helps you out.
Thank you for sharring.
You were very clear and descriptive. Appreciate your help.
I've been watching your work for over 4 years.
My sympathies for the lost of your Dad, when my Dad left us it was extremely difficult to continuing on out projects.
He's always watching you.
Now down to business, of course a mill is worth it.
I've been watching your progress, could you spend that much for lumber?
Beautiful work.
Thank you! For take time make you're videos and explaining the process and challenges that someone might face! 👍
A great video on the choice, I believe the decision between a bandsawmill or a chainsaw mill is relative to the species of timber you are cutting , I have owned and used both, my choice for cutting hardwood like ironbark or river redgum etc is the chainsaw mill, I have 2 Westford Mills, the slabbing mill and the rail mill using the skip tooth chain , no problem, the downside using a chainsaw is the waste as in blade thickness. The bandsaw mill has a thin blade , minimal waste, but bandsaw blades do have there issues, in hardwood the teeth follow the grain therefore porpises up and down thru the log, a wavy surface, no issues with cedar or silky oak . In the end I used a starrett brand blade with a left and right cutting tooth and a raker in the middle, ground every second or so tooth off and it cut like a hot knife thru butter, left on the setup and used until the blade was past the use by date, quick and easy to sharpen with an angle grinder, just ground a sharp point on the tooth no fancy depth gauging or profiling, cost of a blade was $12 , cheap timber , I sold the bandsamill because the blade tension is critical and all I was cutting was hardwood. The Westford mills are made in Australia and are truly portable, used to cut old dead river red gums on the banks of the river , in location , my max lenght was 3 metres long, couldn't lift anything heavier, 75 mm thick, up to 3 foot wide, used a Husquvarna 3120 with modified exhaust and jetting to overcome over come running lean with the throttle power on for 3 minutes , with 6 FOOT BLADE , skip tooth 3/8 chain . the winch makes it easy just listen to the exhaust so you don't bog the motor down
Walk out of a forest with my mill and the timber cut setup is a reasonable task, not difficult and you can mill logs in position , just set the rail in position with wood screws, no machinery required to lift or drag the logs to a set up mill whatever brand, how much timber are you going to cut and is it hard wood or soft wood, hope this helps, not sponsored just experience
super informative as always and professionally produced. thanks for sharing.
Excellent info and timing. Researching bandsaw mills, and Woodland is on the list. Thinking that a mid to 'higher end' mill is a good way to start if 'upgrades' are too expensive later. Thanks!
I have the same mill, it's simple and easy to run, well built, no complaints from me! I set mine on blocks as low to the ground as possible but eventually raised it aprox one foot. This was to be able to clear sawdust out from underneath the bunk .. it accumulates pretty fast! This is NOT a high production mill but does a super job. When cutting TAKE YOUR TIME... One other important issue... clean the logs as best you can before cutting..., garden hose/stiff brush works well... a lot of the Fir logs I've cut have heavy bark on them... those I run the power saw along deep enough to cut through the bark and then peel it off.. takes a bit of time but saves the band saw blades. Great little mill, thoroughly recommend.
Roger Coles how much you pay for
@@ismaelramirez2786
I think, $1.00
Thanks for the information and your opinion ,my brother has a portable mill ,the amount of money that would have been spent on the mahogany lumber is staggering upwards of a hundred thousand dollars. If your a wood worker you can't go wrong
Great information on the merits of a portable sawmill. I agree with your assessment that if you plan on starting up a saw milling business then a manual mill is not the way to go.
I appreciate the time and thought put into your videos.
Yes, the narration is the BEST, the log cabin videos are AWESOME !!!
Martin G lo
Very good! I enjoyed your nariaton and your comments and I respect your opinion's. The video was also very nicely done.
You were able to work with your dad, so well done.
Another great video. I'm really enjoying your build series. I'm really looking forward to more cabin updates.
Thanks!
I have been using my friends Norwood and I agree very much with what you have said. I would add that more horsepower means easier cutting as does sharp blades. The trailer is fantastic! And bigger logs make for less slabs and more boards.
I have a chainsaw mill but I will hire him to come over since it is not really worth the energy when he can roll in with his bandsaw mill.
Great informative review on a great bandsaw mill. Nice to see your posting again. Looking forward to your next ones on this project. Love all your other videos also. Hope to see some "off" the cabin project again. Thanks
Thanks! I'm working hard on the cabin whenever I get the chance. Stay tuned, episodes are on the way!
Great video i am thinking of getting one of the HM126 woodland mills i think you have convinced me thanks
Going to check out Woodland right now. Thanks for the older video, might be what I'm looking for. Cheers and Peace Out
Great video, well made. I wish more RUclips channels would be this professional.
Thank you for sharing, and making it known, just your opinion. Very good information about this as a whole. Thank you again, from North Carolina.
On the edge of my seat waiting on episode 10 of the log cabin build!!
Just saw utube on your mom and dad. Wanted to convey heartfelt condolences for your loss . thank you for letting us listen to you heart and thoughts
I purchased a woodland mill after seeing yours. 2years ago. After pricing out the lumber to build my barn. I hope to build next summer. Got to finish digging out and the foundation first.
I bought one of these Mills you're right the customer support is 2nd to none I had an issue with the clutch because my RP m's were not set right 2 days later a brand new club showed up for free Excellent quality excellent people.......
I've been tempted to go to woodland mills in port perry for a couple year, I like the idea of the dealer only being an hour and a half away from me.
I did consider going that route for my cabin but I just don't have the quality trees available to me near the cabin site. Although, hauling it all in by ATV was no fun either.
Great video. On levelling up and-or trailer beds. Anything long and narrow doesn't necessarily have good/high torsional stiffness, so still requires levelling - it just might have fewer feet, because it is stiffer over significant chunks of its length. Concrete pads has to be best way for non trailer beds.
I enjoy your videos and the Oregon Old Timer sawmill videos.
Excellent, Informative Video! Thank you for putting it together and sharing!
Saving my loose change for the day I can buy a Woodland Mill. I have a oak, hickory, beech, and hard maple woods with some logs down and stacked from installing a septic leach field and opening up the landscape around our home and garden for more sunshine. Thank you.
Great job I am convinced on the bandsaw option.
Great video, demonstration and discussion. Very much appreciated. :-)
I just found your channel recently and am currently going through the videos for wild edibles & whatnot. I just needed to come to a more current video to post and tell you exactly how much I appreciate the knowledge you are sharing with others. I've got books to read by the dozens... *But* that doesn't replace the hands on experience of seeing someone showing you what these beauties look like. So, Thank you from the bottom of my heart for giving me confidence in identifying what I have around me in the natural world. It's so difficult without a woodsman/woman or growing up with a parent to instruct you.
~Be Blessed from SW South Dakota
+Sansa Stark That you Sansa for your very kind comment. ☺
You're very welcome! It's the truth, I am enjoying these videos. They perfectly complement my 5-6 different herbal books. Great job!
HI Outsider
I also have the HM126 which i bought in 2013. I use it on an occasional basis and process about 10 to 15 logs a year. I use the wood for tool sheds, wood sheds an new porch etc. you did not mention so i will that with each log you cut you will get 20 or 30 gallons of sawdust. I add the sawdust to my compost heap as the wood material in the mix. Also all the “scabs” which are the pieces of wood with bark on one side get cut up into firewood. There is very little material wasted if you do a little thinking about where you can use the various products of boards, firewood and sawdust.
Finally i found the local high school has an enthusiastic wood-shop teacher but no budget for wood. I keep him supplied with pine, oak, chestnut and cedar so the kids have plenty of material to work on. All at no charge of course.
I have not found there to be a market for selling wood locally except for the occasional neighbor who needs a few boards. This occasionally pays for gas to run the mill.
Nice video and valid insights.
Pete
I enjoyed watching you and your dad's log cabin videos. I picked up s ok me tips.
I believe with your assessment. Location & a ready , long term access to good lumber are factors to bring in to consideration. Brian 76
I owe the same sawmill and love every thing about it
Looks like they make this saw with a trailer now and is probably the easiest way to level up the saw and be able to move it where you want it. Looks like that is the way to go and just build a shelter for the saw when it is parked and not being used. Thanks for the video.
That's nice . It would always come in handy . THANKS
I bought a small mill 15 yrs ago, and love it.
I work full time, and run the mill a couple days per month, and sell enough blocking to a local business, to pay for the mill every 16 to 18 months.
if you have trees, and need lumber, i highly recommend buying one.
I totally agree with you on every point. Great video!!
good quality video and very informative. Helped me with my decision to buy one.
Thanks for the review. Great information.
I think your ''take'' on this is pretty straight up, I agree with what you said, specially with chainsaw mills, I cut some big cants with a chain saw mill, the gas and oil consumed, could have cut much more with a band mill, , the waste wood of the chain mill could have made some pretty decent boards with a band mill, and still cut my big cants as well,
Very well done sir! you answered all the questions I have had about portable/semi-portable saw mills. I certainly will be buying one! probably this very one you use! (The company should sponsor you one of these days =) Peace.
Don't forget the tractor. And the forks. And the trailer if you ever need to move it off your property. (the tractor) And the truck to pull it. 1/2 ton won't do it. Probably not a 3/4 either. I would love to own one too. It would only make sense if I had enough trees on my own property that I wanted to part with. And owned a tractor.
@@happyjacky52 It's 800 pounds and its on wheels, I'm pretty sure a 1/2 ton could tow it.
Interesting and very informative! Thanks Guys!
Making the base out of a channel or rectangular tube would stiffen up the track alot! Angle iron that was used is to flimsy. Also I would have built a shed of someone sort to cover up the saw during the winter and bad weather! At the same time put in a gantry crane to lift your logs on . ( Always easy to give suggestions and spend someone else 💰 I know)
I have the aussie "hardwood mills" equivalent. Same thing, really.
Totally aawesome.
another great clip.
respect.
Thanks for posting this, very helpful.
thanks man needed to hear all of this!
I also own one of Woodland Mills' bandsaw mills, although mine is an entry level model. I would highly recommend even the small "hobbyist" version I have. Great value for the money when building my own furniture.
What's the largest diameter of log that it will mill? And, what is the info on it?
30" if you get this one woodlandmills.ca/product/hm130-portable-sawmill/ It's the one I am looking at buying from them.
I watched that video. The 130 looks like a great machine.
Thank you, Rick and Richard.
How is your maintenance going with your mill. I looked at different brand, and you can only buy parts from them. Mill was cheap, but the maintenance and parts were very expensive. Thanks, WG.
Good that you are happy with your bandsaw mill, its looking great!
I dont have that money....I have logosol Farmers sawmill that I buy used, on "craigs list".
then I buy a new Husqvqarna 390 XPG and the total cost was about 1600 $ and i tink it cut at
the same speed as your bandsaw, even when i cut oak or maple. I do loose som wood with the thick
saw chain wich is a 2.8 mm, milling chain. I realy like to have a woodland....
(sorry about my bad typing!)
//Swede
Lovely video, id like to own a place to have a beautiful shop and my own sawmill one day.
Great video dude. I like watching your channel. I have a small off grid cabin. I bought a pre made storage shed and mounted it on an old trailer frame. I've bought several old travel trailers in rough shape. Stripped it down to the frame. Mounted some propane tanks and large water tank to move to my site. Works great. Find an old travel trailer. At least 30 feet. Strip it down and mount your saw on it. They have tandem 3500 lbs Axles. Or more. U can pull it with your tractor anywhere. Just an idea.
I might have to thank you for this video, for the fact that when I went to purchase the m126 it came with the trailer when I bought it.
@The Outsider Idea- make a log rack with to hooks at each end and then set it at the bottom. Make a bracket on the opposite side of mill to attach a winch to hook to the rack and pull the logs up. Once the log is cut you can move the rack back down and load with another log
Very helpful video, thank you. In case if you’re still having difficulty levelling it, use a laser level. You might want to do it in the evening when the sun is going down and it’s easier to see, but it makes the job super easy and way more precise than trying to do it with a 4” bubble level like you are showing here. Good luck.
And if anyone else is reading this on a budget, you can use strings pulled tight over long distances to bring things to flat, if you account for the sag in the middle. There are various ways of accounting for it, but a lightweight string under heavy tension will already just solve most of it.
very helpful - much appreciated - thank you for the good video
Excellent commentary, great production work. I have a simple suggestion, not sure you remember, I was the one suggesting a portable saw mill 18 months ago.I hate mud on my wood, dulls the tools, need to sharpen them much more often. You know this from your chainsaw experience, not telling you anything new. My suggestion would be to get a small wood chipper, not an expensive one, then cover the ground around the sawmill with the chips, spread that sawdust around too, it keeps the mud down.I helped a guy on another website, he did not understand foundations. Just like you have trouble with your sawmill, a house has the same problem going through seasons and staying level. The solution is soil dynamics, foundation engineering, which is very complicated. Basically, you need to get something stable, and that depends upon the conditions where you build. In that soil, I would suggest piers. You have rocks, so to reduce the amount of cement, you might pressure wash rocks or find clean ones in a stream bed. Add a little extra OPC and fill a sonotube, buried below the frost line. That might be difficult with so many rocks there. Believe me, it will be worth the effort, even if you can only put one pier every 16 feet. You have free wood, you can span that distance easily with a 2"x10". Most log cabin guys dig a trench, fill it with rocks and sit something on top. It always fails and the rocks need to be restacked every spring. With piers, you might still trench and stack the rocks, but get the wood up 30" off the dirt and away from the rain splash. If the rocks fall over, so what, just restack them. Piers can look ugly, so to make it look really good, use slip form. Slip form would be like getting a sonotube just 12" to 18 inches high, anything above ground, stack clean stones around the outside, fill the inside with rocks and crete. That is the easy way to make it look like masonry. I am not a mason either, but taking time to get the rocks close to each other, then pointing afterwards will work. That same idea can be done the traditional way with slip forms to create a flat face. There are a few examples on U-tube, most of them awful.Great job, good luck with all your endeavors!
I use all my sawdust for my free range hens.
Robert Carver i
Robert Carver I
Solid advice…! Good work!
I have more then 5 years ,good machine ,works great
By far one of the best RUclips "review' DIY videos I have ever seen. You are a talented man. Very straight to the point and very humble opinions. Did not waste anytime yammering about all kinds of nonsense. Only tip I can think of because you pretty much dotted all your i's and crossed all your t's is try to talk more natural, less robotic, You have a good voice for this you should exploit that to the fullest. Best of luck and thank you sooo much for your video I really enjoyed it.
I think the manner of speech is fine. Its clear and well enunciated. The voice is well modulated. No issues at all. In fact, its a much welcome change to the frenetic "rap" or rather yapping of easily excitable youtubers.
That answered all my questions, thanks.
They now have a trailer version, which I will hopefully buy this summer. Need to buy the woodlot first. Then, its time to build a sugar shack and a cabin. Ohh the dream.
Great review, thank you!
Thank you for the review, ive been wanting to get a sawmill on my property to use my own trees for lumber to build a new house. I live in Norway so we only have logosol here. Thanks for the idea to put it on a slab to align it correctly. New sub for an awesome channel :) Keep them coming :)
+Tone Andersen Thanks Tone! It's great to hear from someone in Norway!
Woodland Mills should give you a trailer and a pack of blades, etc. for all the great PR you give them. I was on the fence about which one to buy for our land and you convinced me to get the W.M.
Absolutely
Just beginning my quest for knowledge in deciding between chainsaw or bandsaw mill. When I read "W.M." my initial thought was Woodmizer, haha!
Oh boy, do I love some of their hydraulic models! However, I've decided I need to really seriously reel in my grandiose plans for a larger(expensive!!) model as a first mill. Looking at the Logosol F2, M8, as well as the offerings from the other mfr's. This one here looks very promising, but the insight in the video regarding the need for a trailer have me looking for an option that comes with it.
Thanks so much for this vid!
i should be able to afford one in another 3 months or so cant wait very nicely put together video
That was excellent, thank you.
I've only seen the good it's done for your projects. I like it, though I don't have unlimited bush log material to utilize.
Thank you. That was very useful information.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks mate. Much appreciated
I also have one and I share ur problem with the level but I put a concrete pad under it and now it is perfectly level and works great
A good, thorough review.
Nice clear video and presentation. Brrrrrrr, Canada.
Hey Woodland Mills... build this guy a trailer!!! that was a very informative video, it gave me some insight on the questions I have had floating around in my head... after this comment Im onto the Woodland Mills website.. for real... thanks for the video...
Awesome. Thanks for that.