I know this is an old video but things still work! I have found a couple other ways to help but probably the best is I use a heat gun to soften the rod ends a little which makes threading them for the first time super easy (wear gloves if handling it) and I have a body saw that cuts the all thread in about 5 seconds and it makes a thin clean cut also if you install a nut on the all thread before cutting then remove it after cutting the threads will straighten out nicely.
Deffinetly cool that someone with your skill and tooling is still making videos for people new to our hobby and with limited tools. That sir is why you have one of the best rc channels on youtube. Keep it up man.
I think I choose door number one. Another great video Harley and I'm really glad you take care of the beginners. Someday soon I really want to try to build a truck. The Matzilla chassis looks great. Take care!
Great vid Harley! I haven't tapped aluminum before, but from my experience with tapping steel... you may want to explain the tapping prodecure... not to just keep turning it down, but to back it out occasionally so not to strip the threads you’re tapping.
I think it's one turn forward, 1/4 turn back to break the chip. When cutting steel with a wheel, you might as well direct the spray of sparks away from your face.
I saw you touched on this method of using a drill, as a sort of lathe. A simple jig to hold drill and chuck the round stock works great to turn down ends, i just use emery cloth and check size with calipers as i go. No as exact as a lathe but she will do the job
Huge thanks! I've been thinking about making solid, one-piece links for my Wraith for a while, and you use the same method I was planning on using. Thanks again!
Great video Harley. I made all the links for my xr10 using the second method. But I used 3mm set screws with the stock axial rod ends and traxxas rod end balls. The traxxas balls fit perfect and allow for a lot more flex than the stock axial balls. A life saver of a tool for this method came from "crawler innovations". There "link drill guide set by JeepinDoug" works great for centering up the holes.
Yes, the drill bushings are very nice. I used to have one but it has gone long time lost by now. I actually forgot all about it after going away from that method quite awhile ago.
ferp420 yup, Chuck the tube in your drill or drill press and as its spinning you can hold a file to it or a spinning dremel cutoff or drum.. been doing it for years to cut screws to length, dressing the ends if small tubing. . I use a 4.5 angle grinder most of the time but it's like an appendige
About how much would the average mini lathe be. Like the third method the best. I have used the first method on steering links and have broken or bent them yet. I am using SS threaded rod inside the sleeves. Thanks for all the great tips.
I have access to a lathe but tried option 3 using a bench motor and flat file and it worked just fine. Sometimes it's just a pain in the ass to go over to the lathe, yet when you do it feels so good. Haha
Absolutely! I've even seen it done with a drill press. But I'll leave all those option for the people that are clever and handy. People who are determined will always find a way to make it happen.
Harley. I know you said there are other methods besides a lathe for option3. You think I could turn it down close with a bench grinder? I've considered making them that way but I didn't know if there is something I'm missing there. I might just try it anyway. I love to experiment.
My preferred method is to use aluminium rod with drilled and tapped the ends. But I like to experiment all the time, so I would prefer to be able to alter the length of the link by adding a nut or some washers or something, and locking the ball pivot link back on to that.
Aluminum is definitely easy to work with but can be a little weak for links if you’re hard on your truck or use big power. Definitely a. Easy solution though.
great tip! it's alway's good to save $ any way you can in this hobby thumbs up bud I enjoy watching your how to video's.I try to build or fab stuff now that I have a few good tool's,so it's nice to see how thing's are done before I waist material trying to figure it out!
hey im trying the first method. but the rod ends for my ax10 deadbolt need to be on an angle/ everyone is saying that i need Revo rod ends but there not angled/ Any suggestions?? should i just get the angled ones from Axial and replace the revo ones/
I noticed the same thing. The ID of the stainless tube in the link should handle as much as 10-32 though that may be too large for the ends. 8-32 is probably best
Wow fast response thank u your axial wraith video the budget build is great I've done all the free or inexpensive stuff to it so far then I came across the link video and had to ask before I bought them I liked ur integy comment on facebook
Hey man. I really like these links! BUT i dont have any of the tools to make them. Is there any way you could maby send me some? Please reply. Thank you.
Hi. Bought everything on your links and realized the all thread you mention is 8/32 and the link is for 6/32. Just in case you want to change that to be accurate.
Better to not tap the plastic as you remove it. You can always tighten a screw more tightly (without stripping) if you don't tap it, but just let screw reshape the hole.
The all-thread links to 6-32, but in the video you mention 8-32. Once it got delivered (6-32) I found that the all thread rattled around in the tube. I just ordered it in stainless 8-32: www.amazon.com/Super-Corrosion-Resistant-Stainless-Steel-Threaded-Thread/dp/B0719J9LY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522794082&sr=8-2&keywords=Super-Corrosion-Resistant+316+Stainless+Steel+Threaded+Rod%2C+8-32+Thread+Size%2C+1+Foot+Long
Great vid ,very helpful but ummm 8/32's ?? No sir, it is 8-32 which is an 8 Guage diameter with 32 threads per inch. By saying 8/32's you are actually implying that the outside diameter of the tap is 1/4 of an inch as 1/32 equals .0312 and 8 x .0312 = .2496 inches. All S.A.E. (non metric) threads below 1/4 of an inch are stated as guages followed by the thread pitch (ie. 4-40, 6-32, 8-32) and so on. Hope this helps
Love going back and watching the older videos.
I know this is an old video but things still work! I have found a couple other ways to help but probably the best is I use a heat gun to soften the rod ends a little which makes threading them for the first time super easy (wear gloves if handling it) and I have a body saw that cuts the all thread in about 5 seconds and it makes a thin clean cut also if you install a nut on the all thread before cutting then remove it after cutting the threads will straighten out nicely.
Deffinetly cool that someone with your skill and tooling is still making videos for people new to our hobby and with limited tools. That sir is why you have one of the best rc channels on youtube. Keep it up man.
Awesome video.Between your work and the radio show,I'm practically filled in on anything scalers related.Keep it up
Thanks for this. I've been asking around for a few months and somebody finally linked this video. Good to know!
I think I choose door number one. Another great video Harley and I'm really glad you take care of the beginners. Someday soon I really want to try to build a truck. The Matzilla chassis looks great. Take care!
Great vid Harley! I haven't tapped aluminum before, but from my experience with tapping steel... you may want to explain the tapping prodecure... not to just keep turning it down, but to back it out occasionally so not to strip the threads you’re tapping.
I think it's one turn forward, 1/4 turn back to break the chip. When cutting steel with a wheel, you might as well direct the spray of sparks away from your face.
Wow, Harley! Great vid. Very detailed explanations to custom links.
I saw you touched on this method of using a drill, as a sort of lathe. A simple jig to hold drill and chuck the round stock works great to turn down ends, i just use emery cloth and check size with calipers as i go. No as exact as a lathe but she will do the job
Very cool instructional video. This will be very helpful when I get my crawler going. Thanks for your channel Harley !!
Huge thanks! I've been thinking about making solid, one-piece links for my Wraith for a while, and you use the same method I was planning on using. Thanks again!
ChadwickTheRCAddict You don't need bent rod ends, Revo rod ends will accommodate the bend just fine.
Great video Harley. I made all the links for my xr10 using the second method. But I used 3mm set screws with the stock axial rod ends and traxxas rod end balls. The traxxas balls fit perfect and allow for a lot more flex than the stock axial balls.
A life saver of a tool for this method came from "crawler innovations". There "link drill guide set by JeepinDoug" works great for centering up the holes.
Yes, the drill bushings are very nice. I used to have one but it has gone long time lost by now. I actually forgot all about it after going away from that method quite awhile ago.
you don't need a laith to turn down the ends of the rod you can use a drill and a file it might take some practice but if works
ferp420 yup, Chuck the tube in your drill or drill press and as its spinning you can hold a file to it or a spinning dremel cutoff or drum.. been doing it for years to cut screws to length, dressing the ends if small tubing. . I use a 4.5 angle grinder most of the time but it's like an appendige
I learn something new everyday... Thank you
Awesome video josh, you make some of the best how to or DIY video's
About how much would the average mini lathe be. Like the third method the best. I have used the first method on steering links and have broken or bent them yet. I am using SS threaded rod inside the sleeves. Thanks for all the great tips.
I have access to a lathe but tried option 3 using a bench motor and flat file and it worked just fine. Sometimes it's just a pain in the ass to go over to the lathe, yet when you do it feels so good. Haha
Absolutely! I've even seen it done with a drill press. But I'll leave all those option for the people that are clever and handy. People who are determined will always find a way to make it happen.
How about a video on bending links ? Great info in this video
This was a totally excellent video and told me exactly what I needed to know! thanks for making it :)
Do you suggest using stainless threaded rod also to increase it's strength?
If you have easy access to stainless threaded rod than that would help. I can't say I've seen much of that available locally.
Harley Designs Cool thanks!
Harley. I know you said there are other methods besides a lathe for option3. You think I could turn it down close with a bench grinder? I've considered making them that way but I didn't know if there is something I'm missing there. I might just try it anyway. I love to experiment.
A grinder would be pretty tough, but nothing is impossible. I would try to chuck it in a drill personally.
My preferred method is to use aluminium rod with drilled and tapped the ends. But I like to experiment all the time, so I would prefer to be able to alter the length of the link by adding a nut or some washers or something, and locking the ball pivot link back on to that.
Aluminum is definitely easy to work with but can be a little weak for links if you’re hard on your truck or use big power. Definitely a. Easy solution though.
@@HarleyDesignsInc 6mm ally rod with M4 threads is probably strong enough for my crawler.
So is it 8/32 rod or 6/32???? Two different things being mentioned. I ordered what you said we shall see
I was confused because you do say 8/32 several times in the video but your link to the all-thread takes you to a stick of 6/32
great tip! it's alway's good to save $ any way you can in this hobby thumbs up bud I enjoy watching your how to video's.I try to build or fab stuff now that I have a few good tool's,so it's nice to see how thing's are done before I waist material trying to figure it out!
Simple & Easy explaining methods
On my wraith the top links are bent, do I need to bend the new ones to match old ones?
In order to clear the driveshafts, yes.
Thanks
thanks for the video! currently waiting for parts to make new links to my kit
hey im trying the first method. but the rod ends for my ax10 deadbolt need to be on an angle/ everyone is saying that i need Revo rod ends but there not angled/ Any suggestions?? should i just get the angled ones from Axial and replace the revo ones/
which cutoff wheel for the dremel are you using ?
It is the version that works with the quick lock. Best cut off wheels I've used in a dremel.
on my buy list now , i've use up way too many of the smaller wheels
Hello ,, For extending wheelbase beside a longger links i also need a longger drive axel right ?
Depends on how far you decide to stretch it, but often times it will.
wish I seen this before I ordered new links..thanks for video..subscribe
Thanks for the tips they will come in handy Liked and subscribed
How thick is the walls of the stainless steel tubing
What tube chassis is that? If it’s custom do you have plans for it?
Yes it is custom, it's my Woods Runner. Plans are on my website.
Great vid Josh.
What size and material type tubing did you use?
Thanks for sharing. Need to fit my new Killerbody lc70
what brand and how much was that lathe i need a small one
good night I was wondering what kind of saw that you use and what model and the monkey of this model in the video
Can you use those rod ends for a 5th scale crawler?
What size threaded rod and sleeve did you use?
what was the size of the tubing that you put over the all thread
thanks
Wait nvm
In the video you said 8/32 tap but your link is to 6/32 rod .witch size is correct?
I noticed the same thing. The ID of the stainless tube in the link should handle as much as 10-32 though that may be too large for the ends. 8-32 is probably best
I have a question about building links, how can I contact you?
What size inner diameter stainless steel tube is that?
Sorry I have to ask because it does not seem that many people are buying the like button, how much does it cost to use it?
great vid Harley. very informative. new subscriber here. seen you on mudguy.
Your work is amazing
I dont find the numbers for the revo ends?
have you forgotten it?
JPF from RCC
#5347
Harley Designs wow that is a great video one question would u run your sleeved links over vanquish brand
Jared Drover definitely not. A sleeved link is not as strong as a titanium link.
Wow fast response thank u your axial wraith video the budget build is great I've done all the free or inexpensive stuff to it so far then I came across the link video and had to ask before I bought them I liked ur integy comment on facebook
Hey man. I really like these links! BUT i dont have any of the tools to make them. Is there any way you could maby send me some? Please reply. Thank you.
just did these a week ago! LOL neeed a how to bend vid!
i used all thread and put heat shrink over it to cover the exposed threads
+MrMrsregor all thread is fairly weak, so sleeving it with a material that adds strength is important.
Can you not get exterior hand taps rather than a lathe??? Because that would be much easier
What make and model is your Lathe?
It is an Excel 7”x14” I believe but I can’t 100% recall without looking it up
thank you Josh!
The revo rod ends are part #5347
Hi. Bought everything on your links and realized the all thread you mention is 8/32 and the link is for 6/32. Just in case you want to change that to be accurate.
Better to not tap the plastic as you remove it. You can always tighten a screw more tightly (without stripping) if you don't tap it, but just let screw reshape the hole.
what size of threaded rod did you use?
+Jay ar Zamora 8-32 all-thread
+Harley Designs thank you
Use tiger paw to put taper on end of all thread.
I can't find a length of that thin threaded rod
what chassey is that and do you have a link? thanks
It's a chassis I built myself.
Good video harley
Excellent video. Liked/Subscriber
Thanks!!!!
very cool Harley
No pipe cutter? Cool techniques though.
Awesome Video Thanks
I got an entire replacement set of rod ends for a trx 4 for 6 bucks
The all-thread links to 6-32, but in the video you mention 8-32. Once it got delivered (6-32) I found that the all thread rattled around in the tube. I just ordered it in stainless 8-32: www.amazon.com/Super-Corrosion-Resistant-Stainless-Steel-Threaded-Thread/dp/B0719J9LY6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522794082&sr=8-2&keywords=Super-Corrosion-Resistant+316+Stainless+Steel+Threaded+Rod%2C+8-32+Thread+Size%2C+1+Foot+Long
Perfect!! Thanks!
Great vid ,very helpful but ummm 8/32's ?? No sir, it is 8-32 which is an 8 Guage diameter with 32 threads per inch. By saying 8/32's you are actually implying that the outside diameter of the tap is 1/4 of an inch as 1/32 equals .0312 and 8 x .0312 = .2496 inches. All S.A.E. (non metric) threads below 1/4 of an inch are stated as guages followed by the thread pitch (ie. 4-40, 6-32, 8-32) and so on. Hope this helps
very cool
Inspiring! Thanks:)
Why not just smash the end of the rod into an eyelet and file it round instead of doing anything with threading into a plastic eye?
Thanks
Nice video thanks
Awesome... Thanks
thanks harley good work.
Riff_Raff
Bro ,,, you said beginners and you come out with a tube chassis. How about links to upgrade a rtr crawler " simple"
Idk what happend there I said I can not find
I have access to a professional fabrication shop
LUCKY ME ☺️