FULL How To Oil Change (and Screen Clean) 2012 Kawasaki Vulcan 900
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Whether to save money or learn more about your bike, I hope this video helps you 1) Build the confidence to work on your own bike 2) Helps you save a few bucks and gain some knowledge on how to properly change your oil (and the oil screen). Added bonus tips (like oil selection) and how to change that elusive oil screen nobody seems to talk about but needs to get done!
Click the times below to jump ahead on topics or just enjoy the video. Hope it is fun and please LIKE, SHARE and SUBSCRIBE for more!! :)
Jump Ahead to Sections:
2:38 Drain plug and drain oil
4:31 Oil filter removal
7:43 Oil filter (screen) removal
11:29 Oil screen inspection/cleaning
14:13 Oil screen installation
16:34 Oil filter installation
19:56 Filling oil/oil type talk
25:16 Pouring oil into bike
25:57 Checking oil level
27:14 Check oil pressure light/sensor
28:21 Final look/Wrap up/Outro
Affiliate Links for Parts/Materials Used in this Video (Hook a brother up, helps with the bills and motorcycle parts, LOL):
Clymer Service Manual (Amazon Link: amzn.to/3pWETjl)
Oil (Castrol 10W-40 Actevo 4T JASO MA2/API SL) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/3m5vvHN)
Oil Filter (KN-303) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/3fyVmW3)
Oil Screen (Kawasaki OEM Part#16097A FILTER-ASSY-OIL 16097-1058) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/2J5coz8)
Oil Screen Cap O-Ring (Part#92055A RING-O, 35.2X2.4 92055-1358) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/2UZRp3c)
Oil Drain Plug (Part#92066 PLUG, 12X15 92066-0079 ) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/33e4QRT)
Oil Drain Plug Gasket (Part#92065 GASKET, 12X22X2 92065-097) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/2UUTgXd)
Any Aerosol Brake Cleaner (Amazon Link: amzn.to/39jNvdM)
Nitril Gloves (Amazon Link: amzn.to/3fGVy5X)
Shop Rags/Clothes (Cloth/Paper) (Amazon Link: amzn.to/39gpK6v)
I just got a 2012 Vulcan 900. This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for the great video and explanation. Ride safe!
I actually had no idea about the oil screen. Done several oil changes on my Vulcan 900 Custom '09 since bought new, so ordered a new one to do on next change. Cheers!
I'm glad to hear my video helped someone! Thank you for the watch and positive feedback. Cheers back at ya!
Thank you for showing the side metal filter. Great video
I just bought a 2010 with 10K miles. It was serviced last spring. I was a little annoyed that the bike doesn't have a stand. Seeing the little hacks he used to level the bike was very helpful. Lots of great advice in the here and he explains everything very clearly. I grade the video as an A.
Wow! Thank you so much for your feedback!
Well done sir! Great video! I would only add some other best practices are add oil into the new filter. They are the type that doesn't spill out when screwing on. The reason it helps from a dry start when restarting the bike. Also I was told many years ago to always change the crush washer each oil change. Each one wears differently. Also every 10 changes re place the actual plug due to heat and things hitting it. Also never use channel locks to remove any hard to remove like that cap. That crescent was perfect because it puts 100 pressure on both sides and wont snap it off. I bought a motorcycle chalk from cycle gear and how amazing it is to do oil changes on. When refilling oil you take it off and have on a level surface like you have. I hate 2x4s but it is what it is. Great video! Bravo sir...Bravo!
Wow, thank you for the awesome feedback and encouraging words. Also thanks for the additional to bits of info! 🙂💯👊
One thing nobody shows-To remove the factory fill plug, use the back end of the thinner shock adjusting tool. A screw driver will chip up the chrome and may not be wide enough to get the job done. Thanks for a great vid!
Thanks for the added tip! (And thank you for the watch and feedback 🙂)
I wanted to make a point on draining the oil. I have an '09 Vstar 950 and like your Vulcan (and most other bikes I presume) one must level the bike before checking the sump oil level accurately. Because of the low ground clearance I too was blocking the side stand to gain access to the drain plug and drain pan clearance/placement but when I would add the new oil I was not able to add the amount noted in the manual. Recently I had to wait a day to add the new oil (after fully draining the sump, or so I thought) so when I took the blocking away from the side stand to secure the bike I had additional "old" oil drain from the sump. I asked my local bike mechanic and he said that because the bike came with a side stand that the sump was designed to drain from the side stand position. Note: the Vstar 950 drain plug and sump pan are similar to the Vulcan 900.
First, thanks for watch and commenting! Interesting fact share, much appreciated. I just followed the service manual for my bike that says to level it. Now you got me down a rabbit hole to look up what the mech told you, lol! 🙂👊
So what you are saying is that you leave your bike on the stand (Un level) and drain your oil and it will fully drain...Please reply.
@@James-tt7vg yes, we are talking about a Vstar 950 which has a low ground clearance. At first I would use a 2x4 piece of wood under the kickstand to make the bike level and then drain the pan. One time I had drained the pan and needed to take the bike off the 2x4 and keep it on the kickstand and when I did this about half a litre more oil drained from the pan. I asked my local bike mechanic about it and he said that the pan was designed to be drained fully when the bike is on the kickstand.
@@James-tt7vg I would suggest draining the sump with the bike level using a 2x4 (or similar) and then take it off the 2x4 before replacing the drain plug and see if more oil drains from the sump.
@@teedee4553 Thank You Tee Dee
Well explained info mate, follow you vid and anyone can do it without paying a garage prices for a 15 minute job
You are so right about thread memory .
Side casing allen bolts into soft alloy especially.
I'm lucky as my garage has a pit so I can straddle it with my vulcan leave in one or two cross board for the kick stand and work from down there without having to lay on the floor.
Thank you for the watch and feedback! That is cool you have the hook up with the pit. That sound make things a whole lot easier!
obviously put a lot of effort into the video. lots of details, great video! 👍
Thank you for the watch and feedback! 🙏👊🙂
Just bought me a used 2006 900. Perfect video. Now for the coolant and air filter.
Thanks for the feedback Kevin! I hope it helped. Coolant is pretty easy. The one trick I learned is you don't need to take the tank off, just loosen the anchor bolts by the seat and slightly lift and shift the tank just enough to expose the radiator cap so you can fit a long-neck funnel to fill the fresh coolant. Thanks for the watch and comment. 🙂👊💯
@@ManCalledHorse cool deal, thanks 🙂
@@ManCalledHorse got the coolant done. I actually didn't do anything with the tank. Just removed the top hose. One trick is to remove the drain plug before doing anything. The coolant will not come out at all unless the top is open. Scared me for a minute and thought no coolant was in it lol. Cars and trucks don't do that
Thank you! We have the exact same bike. Your video has given me the confidence to go wrench on my own and change the oil. Thanks so much!
Thank you for all the effort! PERFECT camera angles to see what is going on.
Very good info & video.
However: The washer at 18:24 is actually a CRUSH WASHER. This means that as you tighten the bolt, the washer gets crushed and deformed, filling any imperfections and making a perfect seal; hence the "lip" around the bolt you refered to. Once it has been used, you CANNOT reuse it because it will not deform or get crusehd any more and it might leak. So yeah. This particular one you MUST change.
Thanks again for the video, and the Screen Clean I had not seen anywhere else. Cheers. Miles and health!
Do you happen to know the size of that crush washer to replace??
@@FRJ1982 Sorry man. I know about it because some other dude said it in a similar video and made that exact remark. It is a crush washer that MUST be changed, cannot be reused.
thanks for the screen info.
Exactly what I needed for my 500 mile oil change. Thank you!
Thanks for a useful, well put together video. Did my bike at the weekend and would have missed the screen if not for this video
Wow, awesome! I am very happy to hear this vid helped someone. Thank you so much for the watch and the feedback! 🙂👊💯
Very good video, will definitely help as i tackle my first service myself👍
Thank you for watching and the feedback! 👊
you can take the frame part that the voltage regulator is mounted to off by 2 blots ,to get to the oil filter ! and get access to wipe the front of the engine off good !
Thank you for this video and thank you for all the work you put into the videos.
I found me a 2009 Classic I’m thinking about DIY the maintenance, and your videos are going to be instrumental.
Whenever you get a chance, can you post the link for the torque wrench you used for the 15lbs on the oil drain plug?
I’m just starting out with this bike, what made you pick the Kawi Vulcan 900? Do you still have it?
Thank you again, keep doing what you do!
Excellent tutorial! Very thorough. My 900 Custom and I thank you.
Thank you so much on the feedback and for watching! I hope it helps someone out there somehow, some way. 👊💯
yes. there are not many videos talking about the oil filter under the engine. I will do myself one in Spanish
Awesome!
Really nice video ,great camera shots ,you can see clearly whats goin on ,Thank You! subscribed and hand up :)
Thanks so much for the feedback and the watch! I appreciate the sub. Keep staying awesome! 👊
Thank you for the very well-made educational video.
Thank you so much for the feedback and I hope it helps! 🙏💯👊💥
Great video. Would you happen to have the part number for that screen filter and o-ring?
Hi Mike! The screen filter and o-ring kit is OEM part #92071-100 "oil screener and o-ring". Hope this helps!
Right away I knew you were from california because of that fuel sticker! haha thank you for the video been looking for one about that fuel screen! I got a 2017 900 custom
Thank you very much for your video, helps me a lot. Many thanks and take care. :D
Thank you for the great feedback and I am glad it helped you 😊
There's a bolt on the left side of the bar that holds the rectifier. Just remove that, and it hinges everything out of the way.
Good Job! Keep'em coming.
Thank you! 🙏👊💯
Great info on oil thanks!
Great great video thank you sir. May i ask what is the name make and size of your windshield? And where to get one, and how do you like it. Thank you again.
Thanks for the feed back Bobby! Here is my video (and link to purchase if you're interested), enjoy!
ruclips.net/video/3R9ls1UKCu0/видео.html
It looks to me the rubber part of the oil strainer should go in first. Otherwise how would it work? Can the spring be squeezed to make a tight seal?
The screen (oil strainer) port is narrow inside with a wider mouth. You'll see, only your finger with fit I there. The manual also has the rubber gasket towards the outside (near the cap). Hope that helps! Thanks for the watch and comment! 🙂
@@ManCalledHorse OK, thanks.
You got it wrong mate, on the Vulcan 1600 rubber side in first. 900's the reverse. Crazy but that's what the manual says.
should have put a little oil in the filter
The older bikes use a different oil fill cap
good stuff thanks
Thank you! And thanks for the watch and comment! 🙂👊💯
So how much did everything cost you about including the screen? Now that I seen your video I want to change my oil myself instead of that the dealer. Thanks for the video also
I would have to go through the links I put in the the description for this video and add it all up. Basically it was the oil, the filter, the screen, oil plug gasket and screen o-ring (if needed). 🙂
Thanks for the great video….
How much of a, smidgen of oil did you add at the end? 😖 Where between the 2 lines do you want the oil level to be?
The smidgen was maybe a 1/4 to half a cup (small increments). I put the oil level right in the middle of the upper and lower lines in the oil view glass. I didn't measure how much I put in when "topping off", I just slowly poured, ran the engine and waited, and poured again, ran the engine again and waited until the oil level was where I wanted it. I didn't pour to the top line because when the oil heats up and expands, you don't want the oil pressure to bust seals. 🙂
@@ManCalledHorse You won't "bust a seal" if the oil level is too high but you may very well see oil carryover into the crankcase breathers, which then winds up in your air cleaner. Very messy.
The screen filter backwards?
Is a blown clutch a common problem? How many miles / years did it last?
Factory (OEM) clutches come with friction plates that most often made of cork and rubber. There are aftermarket plates that are made of carbon or kevlar (which upgraded to due to the type of riding I do). Clutch wear is dependant on your use of them, meaning if you slip the clutch alot (like slow racing, slow maneuvering or a lot of clutch dumping or just hard riding with heavy throttle play) that wears your plates out faster than just going for a cruise. With my Vulcan, I bought it when it was 6 years old from the original owner, I couldn't tell you how he rode before I got it. But I definitely worked my bike, so the OEM plates burnt out about a year. But at the end, we eventually will have to replace the plates or clutch basket due to normal wear and tear. I got a video of me replacing my clutch plates. Hope this helps! 🙂
What brand of windshield is that and how does it do with buffeting at higher speeds?
It is a Memphis Shades "Hell Cat" with install kit. If you like, I have a product review of it on my channel. I hope this helps! Thanks for the watch and question! 😁
Rubber end of the strainer filter should go in first.
Just doing what the service manual says 🤷🏽♂️. Thanks for the watch and comment! 🙂
Guess after checking further am wrong. Closed end goes in first, washer spring end cap. Sorry!
@@rodkramer8879 no worries and I'm glad you pitched in regardless! 🙂
I cant seem to find The tool kit from Moto Jitsu
It was just the tool bag. I put my own tools in it. Are you looking for the tool bag?
It seems that you old school mechanics like to warm the engine before an oil change, but the last time you rode your bike it was hot, all the oil drained and dropped down to the sump, its had atleast a day or in some cases a week to do this, so why would you spread all the oil up and around the engine and drain it ten minutes later, makes no sense to me, it also wouldn't make any difference which way you do it but it also doesnt make sense to go to all the extra effort to heat an engine to drain the oil.........
What is it with this new crop of 'experts' and their 'pro tips' ?????? Run it for 5-10 minutes, level it, pull the filler cap, REMOVE the OIL FILTER! WHY?? So you don't drop the oil filter in a pan full of hot oil and splash yourself. THEN pull the drain plug....... you can put on new filter while the oil is draining. THAT is a tip from a pro.
Sounds good, thanks for the tip and comment! 🙂
Great video! Ridiculous effort to just do a simple oil and filter change, poor design by Kawasaki in my opinion. I'm too old to be crawling around on the floor anymore so it's off to the bike shop for me.
I can't watch that can't you afford a basic motorcycle lift? safety!!!
The boards were very stable (in conjunction with putting the bike into gear to prevent any rolling). 🙂
@@ManCalledHorse idk man it looks scary , I'm looking to buy my first bike so I watch everything even a videos on how to change oil without having my own motorcycle yet😂
@@Voltomess always do what feels right to you. I now have a lift so I can do work with both wheels off the ground, but the bike rocks on it. Just sharing. I hope you have lots of fun when you get your bike! Hey, if you didn't already Subscribe to my channel, please do (I will help me get more safety equipment, lol!) 🤣 🙂
@@Voltomess LOL "looks scary". "'first bike". hahh. do you pee sitting down too? Man up bro.
Man, talk at home in the garage and keep your hands on the bars.
those nitrile gloves aint worth a damn...LOL
Any recommendations?
@@ManCalledHorse latex or mechanics gloves....and suggest you get a crows foot wrench for the strainer plug for proper torque