"GPU manufacturers try not to use a bunch of different screws" flashbacks to gamers nexus Nvidia founders edition teardowns with over 50 screws in total, with at least 5 different types
hell even my aorus 2080 ti had at least 5 different screw types, once the first 3 I removed were different I started taking a shit ton of pics so I wouldn't screw it up 😂
My strix 2080ti is a dream to disassemble why people would fund companies that use 50 different screws and glue what sort of anti consumer crap is that people who buy founders are idiots and are the reason they do it
Thanks BZ for working on my Titan X! A bit of background: This card was randomly shorting out my psu for a few months before it was consistently shorting it out to the point that it would never boot with the PCIe power plugged in. At first I thought the backplate or the frontplate were shorting with the components as I noticed they seemed to be warping against the PCB but removing those did nothing to resolve the issues. Then I suspected a cap had blown after I smelled burning electronics on one of the occasions. As you mentioned it was a pretty fruitless task to try and pull of each cap to see if by chance it was the one that had blown. I think I've included the caps I pulled in a baggy with the cards I sent but if not, the card should still turn on. Pardon my soldering skills but working with SMT components without the special tweezer iron is really messy. I am hopeful that you'll get the card to boot up though I hope it won't be too much work. Pulling the inductors was definitely beyond what my soldering tools could do, without also pulling the pads out. I also forgot to throw in the waterblock I have for this. If you would like it I would be happy to send those too as I no longer have a use for them (the other cards being a water-damaged Vega FE and an over-volted Vega 56 reference that blew the core).
good evening. by some reason may you keep this card? one of the smd in the pcb has burned and i cant read its name. maybe you could help me identifying this smd
You have quickly become one of my favorite youtubers. I Don't understand most of what your talking about but your videos are super fun to watch and learn from! please keep it up!
Very useful troubleshooting tactics. I have an X99 board with a dead VRM. The PS clicks it’s over current cutoff relay when the power button is pressed, but not if I unplug the 8 pin. Thanks for the tip on probing the shunt resistors. I hope I can find them on my board. I suspect one of the IR3550 chips has a ground mosfet shorted. Vcore is not shorted to 12v. Please make more repair (attempt) videos, they would help us all understand power distribution, which affect OC’ing as well as repairs. Cheers!
The RAM overclocking t-shirt is hilarious. Black magic indeed. I wish the sticker came as a vinyl decal so the background took on the color of what it is placed on. Would be perfect for a case with a window.
The MLC ceramic caps can create a short if they sustain physical damage. They're pretty tough, but they're also quite brittle, so if the card gets dropped or something, they can get cracked and create a short. Edit: I'm working on a 980 Ti right now with this same basic board design, and the short was that bottom power stage, as you mentioned. The card works after removing that power stage; no funky safety mode or anything. I'd even go so far as to say that, if you have a hot air station, removing the power stage is probably easier than removing the chokes.
The cooler on this is the exact same size as the one on the EVGA GTX 970 I had, and that thing got up to ~80 degrees whilst sounding like a hairdryer (even tried repasting it, which didn't help at all). It took their initial Pascal cards literally exploding for them to fix their crappy coolers.
I had blown powerstage on my Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Waterforce, it was fused to ground plane (no hot air station or soldering iron could remove it) so i had to remove it with pliers and destroy the remaining powerstage along with all supporting circuitry from that powerstage. After that the graphics card worked perfectly again, in place of that destroyed power stage there is small 0.5mm tall copper chunk that is fused to groundplane that cannot be removed. I think it was short circuit protection build into the controller or doublers that saved the GPU from painful 5-12volt death.
I've ran into something as simple as the backplate grounding out the card after so many owners and PC swaps. Brian from Tech Yes City found this exact issue with a Sapphire R9 390X.
Grab a bench power supply and apply 1v and 2 or 3A to the shorted rail and check for components heating up. If the core starts to heat up, just lift up 1 side of the inductors untill the short is out and you'll quickly find the culprit. Good luck!
If you have a DMM with 4-wire ohms mode (almost all bench dmms, but almost no handheld ones) you can sometimes find the short by probing different places on the PCB and moving towards the location of lowest resistance. This is a lot harder with low ground impedance cards like this though. I'm not sure if I'd try it, but you might be able to put a "safe" voltage (1V?) to the PCI connector and see what heats up. All the "working" powerstages should not boot up due to undervoltage, but the shorted one will deliver voltage to the core (if the high side mosfet in the powerstage is shorted). This would not expose the core to unsafe voltage since the 1V is applied through the shorted one to the core. You could quickly determine which powerstage is shorted, assuming that's the issue. This really relies on having an actually smart VRM controller and/or powerstages though.
I get 1370 Mhz on my stock GTX Titan X. Never really gets hot because of the Raijintek Morpheus heatsink with two Noctua 120mm fans. I've increased the power limit, but I can't remember getting past 1.2v for some reason. It's been a while since I edited the BIOS.
If this core is still alive I would be very tempted to scratch a break in the twelve volt power rail and put a fuse in both rails right near the plug-ins easy to spot. The bit of information needed to do that is what is the maximum current draw with an undamaged rail.
Hi, I'm trying to make an epower using a pcb of reference 980 Ti like is this video, what should I look into to make all power stage working (except vmem which are desolder) ? like you talked about power load balancing, do you think there is a way to force all mosfet to work ? except for that I think I only need 3.3v, 5v and to set high an enable pin to start up mosfet driver, do you think it should be enough to power lower end card such as GK104/GM204 and lower at pretty high voltage ? Thanks you
The EK thermal pads that came with my aorus xtreme waterblock weren't white WITH plastic still on, plastic layer was blue and actual pad same color as in this video
Man, to think of what AIB partners could have made if NVIDIA had just have given them some reference TITAN PCBs past maxwell. It would have at the very least, given a different options to aesetics and perhaps warrenty as well. EDIT: @Buildzoid if you could, could you make a video about what hardware (Like power meters type hardware) and software you use to make AHOC repair and testing content?
i just got a Palit GTX 970 with that exact defect. i removed the inductor but it turned out the gate of the dead powerstage (only a single powerstages was connected to the 12V power plane that was shorted so it was easy to tell which one was blown) was shorted to ground. i removed the powerstage with hot air but the card still doesn't turn on. either it's detecting the missing stage and it goes into safety mode or me removing phase#1 on a card that only runs phase#1 in idle is the problem if the card can't detect if a phase is gone EDIT: after changing nothing about the card it started to work again. maybe it was still too hot from the hot air station or something else. it is booting now.
The Mosfet has a thermal warning pin which can be used to shutdown the card but i don't know if Palit uses the pin. Either you triggered the thermal warning or you don't have good connection. A stress test will tell you the answer :)
Actually Hardcore Overclocking, What would you say in this situation: My Titan x Maxwell when running load like Valorant and sometimes it does this with League of Legends but the issue is that I get a graphics card error, white screened until the game is is 'end tasked'. I noticed it was getting really hot about 83c. I changed the thermal pads and paste and it has been running cool but its still doing the same thing with the white screen and graphics card error. I inspected the card's components but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary visually.
I have an EVGA 980 Ti with the bottom VRM blown up, im in the process of replacing it. I got the VRM removed already and im waiting for the component to arrive. Soldering and desoldering on that spot is a pain tho.. I needed 400 degrees on a SMD reflow station to warm up the groundplane enough. Im not sure if I can resolder the new component properly without overheating everything. Can the card also run with a powerstage less?
The key of soldering with hot air and a lot of groundplane is to first warm up the surrounding area of the MOSFET. You have to wave the nozzle with some distance around the soldering area for some time and after that you place the component and heat it up to the final melting point. Don't place it and then heat up the PCB. It causes unnessecary stress to the component. Besides the temperature of your hot air station, you also have to look at your airflow, distance and nozzle size. Thats why i can't give you detailed instructions on which settings,etc to use...every equipment is different. The components can handle some abuse if you don't cook them for 2 minutes :D
@@basti8878 i preheated the surrounding area with ~260 degrees on a diatance for several minutes, it was still harder than i expected. Its not the first time i tried something like this. They're just more stubborn than normal smd components
@@unlimiteddy5546 Yeah the 980Ti takes a looooot of heat because of the huge multilayer ground. On my first 980Ti repair i was surprised how much heat they take compared to a 970/980. On my Quick 861DW i use 450 degrees and 90 l/min which is overkill for normal components. I preheat both sides and use a lot of distance so i don't have to switch between temperature. Good luck on your repair
BZ should make his own graphics card, I'd buy one lol & I got a GTX 460 cyclone that posts but the image is all fudged up, not sure what's wrong with it . Got it for only like $20 on eBay 😂
those kind of thermal pads don't have plastic on them. They are just... crappy like that. I destroyed one trying to get the "plastic" off.. I don't know why they exist. I don't know where they come from but I see them sometimes on used cards where an owner changed the pads for some reason or another.
"If you have an overpowered VRM it is extremely unlikely it will fail, ever". This is basically why I buy mid range overclocking motherboards even though I'm not an overclocker. The better components are good for longevity. I have a Rampage IV formula motherboard that's close to 8 years old and a Sabertooth X58 that's about 10 years old and they're still going strong.
@@TogasLawn Sounds like one of the components might be at least partially damaged. Depending on your level of skill it might be possible to locate and replace it. If there are any round caps on that mobo look for any that are bulging out on top. It means they have likely overheated and expanded and may not be performing properly. That's the limit of my knowledge. For anything further I would recommend checking out 'Actually Hardcore Overclocking' on youtube for more detailed information. I would check for you myself but I've had a few drinks tonight. :)
I think I just blew my GTX 1060 after overclocking it, its detected but error code 43 on device manager, if I connect HDMI directly to the card, nothings are shown up.
Yes, a RX480 Nitro with IR3553m MOSFETs can be upgraded to IR3550s. If you can even find them, that is. It actually doing anything useful is another story though.
I never buy reference Nvidia PCB's anymore. They fail so many times. Had a GTX 780 from EVGA with reference Nvidia PCB, it died after two years. They then gave me a refurb 780, which also died within a few months. These cards easily hit 85-87 C under load despite custom cooler, imagine how hot those VRM's must have been. Subsequently bought a custom PCB MSI 1070 and it still runs perfectly after nearly 3 years (also much lower temps). Only buying custom PCB cards from now on, I want cards that can survive at least 4 years of daily abuse.
..NVidia has prob invested in a shitton of those VRM chips and is going to use em even though a different design with better controllers would be better for long term performance..the reality of economics..
Kind of shitty to get a (even if broken) Titan X, forgetting about it for ages, and not even bothering to contact the sender with a "sorry, what was the problem?" or looking back at it, tbh.
@@deminybs No, but you know, just out of politeness a single "hey dude, took a while to get to it, full schedule. Mind telling me again what was wrong?" Or looking at the message history. Just showing you give a fuck, pretty much.
Наука
"GPU manufacturers try not to use a bunch of different screws"
flashbacks to gamers nexus Nvidia founders edition teardowns with over 50 screws in total, with at least 5 different types
hell even my aorus 2080 ti had at least 5 different screw types, once the first 3 I removed were different I started taking a shit ton of pics so I wouldn't screw it up 😂
..& glue
I think he was referring to AIB partners instead of the "founders edition" cards
My strix 2080ti is a dream to disassemble why people would fund companies that use 50 different screws and glue what sort of anti consumer crap is that people who buy founders are idiots and are the reason they do it
Thanks BZ for working on my Titan X! A bit of background:
This card was randomly shorting out my psu for a few months before it was consistently shorting it out to the point that it would never boot with the PCIe power plugged in. At first I thought the backplate or the frontplate were shorting with the components as I noticed they seemed to be warping against the PCB but removing those did nothing to resolve the issues. Then I suspected a cap had blown after I smelled burning electronics on one of the occasions. As you mentioned it was a pretty fruitless task to try and pull of each cap to see if by chance it was the one that had blown. I think I've included the caps I pulled in a baggy with the cards I sent but if not, the card should still turn on. Pardon my soldering skills but working with SMT components without the special tweezer iron is really messy. I am hopeful that you'll get the card to boot up though I hope it won't be too much work. Pulling the inductors was definitely beyond what my soldering tools could do, without also pulling the pads out.
I also forgot to throw in the waterblock I have for this. If you would like it I would be happy to send those too as I no longer have a use for them (the other cards being a water-damaged Vega FE and an over-volted Vega 56 reference that blew the core).
good evening. by some reason may you keep this card? one of the smd in the pcb has burned and i cant read its name. maybe you could help me identifying this smd
I am having a very similar issue.. did you end up coming to a conclusion or diagnosis of this problem?
Ooh I hope to see a follow-up for this one. Good luck!
A buildzoid repair video. Yes yes yes 🙌😁.
You have quickly become one of my favorite youtubers. I Don't understand most of what your talking about but your videos are super fun to watch and learn from! please keep it up!
Sometimes it can be helpful to measure the gate resistance to identify the shorted stage.
Very useful troubleshooting tactics. I have an X99 board with a dead VRM. The PS clicks it’s over current cutoff relay when the power button is pressed, but not if I unplug the 8 pin.
Thanks for the tip on probing the shunt resistors. I hope I can find them on my board. I suspect one of the IR3550 chips has a ground mosfet shorted. Vcore is not shorted to 12v.
Please make more repair (attempt) videos, they would help us all understand power distribution, which affect OC’ing as well as repairs. Cheers!
motherboards don't have shunt resistors like this.
Thanks! I was hoping for GPU troubleshooting and repair videos.
The RAM overclocking t-shirt is hilarious. Black magic indeed. I wish the sticker came as a vinyl decal so the background took on the color of what it is placed on. Would be perfect for a case with a window.
The MLC ceramic caps can create a short if they sustain physical damage. They're pretty tough, but they're also quite brittle, so if the card gets dropped or something, they can get cracked and create a short.
Edit: I'm working on a 980 Ti right now with this same basic board design, and the short was that bottom power stage, as you mentioned. The card works after removing that power stage; no funky safety mode or anything. I'd even go so far as to say that, if you have a hot air station, removing the power stage is probably easier than removing the chokes.
4:40 You can apply voltage to see which caps blow up so you could verify the broken one and replace it
G'day Buildzoid,
This was really cool showing how to check for a shorts on a GPU, Thanks so much 😁
Ps I'd watch "Can Buildzoid Fix it?" videos
I cracked a 980Ti die on an Matrix Platinum from this exact fault, 12v burst right into the silicon, burning, smells, sadness.
Turn on captions for intro. Builds weed here
thank you
The cooler on this is the exact same size as the one on the EVGA GTX 970 I had, and that thing got up to ~80 degrees whilst sounding like a hairdryer (even tried repasting it, which didn't help at all). It took their initial Pascal cards literally exploding for them to fix their crappy coolers.
I didn’t even know they had a dual fan design titan wtf that’s cool
I had blown powerstage on my Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Waterforce, it was fused to ground plane (no hot air station or soldering iron could remove it) so i had to remove it with pliers and destroy the remaining powerstage along with all supporting circuitry from that powerstage. After that the graphics card worked perfectly again, in place of that destroyed power stage there is small 0.5mm tall copper chunk that is fused to groundplane that cannot be removed. I think it was short circuit protection build into the controller or doublers that saved the GPU from painful 5-12volt death.
I've ran into something as simple as the backplate grounding out the card after so many owners and PC swaps. Brian from Tech Yes City found this exact issue with a Sapphire R9 390X.
Hi Buildzoid, guys here!
gays here
Grab a bench power supply and apply 1v and 2 or 3A to the shorted rail and check for components heating up. If the core starts to heat up, just lift up 1 side of the inductors untill the short is out and you'll quickly find the culprit. Good luck!
I have 3 ref 980ti's that are dead. all evga sc, picked up a bunch of evga epower v's. quad sli + quad epower
If you have a DMM with 4-wire ohms mode (almost all bench dmms, but almost no handheld ones) you can sometimes find the short by probing different places on the PCB and moving towards the location of lowest resistance. This is a lot harder with low ground impedance cards like this though.
I'm not sure if I'd try it, but you might be able to put a "safe" voltage (1V?) to the PCI connector and see what heats up. All the "working" powerstages should not boot up due to undervoltage, but the shorted one will deliver voltage to the core (if the high side mosfet in the powerstage is shorted). This would not expose the core to unsafe voltage since the 1V is applied through the shorted one to the core. You could quickly determine which powerstage is shorted, assuming that's the issue. This really relies on having an actually smart VRM controller and/or powerstages though.
t he thermal pads that came with my EK gpu block fooled me the same way. i spent an hour before i realized it was probably supposed to stay on there..
I get 1370 Mhz on my stock GTX Titan X. Never really gets hot because of the Raijintek Morpheus heatsink with two Noctua 120mm fans.
I've increased the power limit, but I can't remember getting past 1.2v for some reason. It's been a while since I edited the BIOS.
dude. Teach us :)
If this core is still alive I would be very tempted to scratch a break in the twelve volt power rail and put a fuse in both rails right near the plug-ins easy to spot. The bit of information needed to do that is what is the maximum current draw with an undamaged rail.
Hi, I'm trying to make an epower using a pcb of reference 980 Ti like is this video, what should I look into to make all power stage working (except vmem which are desolder) ? like you talked about power load balancing, do you think there is a way to force all mosfet to work ? except for that I think I only need 3.3v, 5v and to set high an enable pin to start up mosfet driver, do you think it should be enough to power lower end card such as GK104/GM204 and lower at pretty high voltage ?
Thanks you
When I had my first pc I had a evga 960. Had quite a few lockups ended up not knowing to send it in for rma and one day it smoked up on me.
Do you know what caused it to start smoking
Those look like the EKWB thermal pads. I also tried peeling off the the glossy layer :D
The EK thermal pads that came with my aorus xtreme waterblock weren't white WITH plastic still on, plastic layer was blue and actual pad same color as in this video
this video was too short wasn't able to fall asleep ;D
What could cause L14 to be cracked and the close shunt bulged? What does that circuit?
Does the titan x maxwell (same gpu as in your vid) have a fuse ? Been looking all over this card and still have not found any.
Man, to think of what AIB partners could have made if NVIDIA had just have given them some reference TITAN PCBs past maxwell. It would have at the very least, given a different options to aesetics and perhaps warrenty as well.
EDIT: @Buildzoid if you could, could you make a video about what hardware (Like power meters type hardware) and software you use to make AHOC repair and testing content?
i just got a Palit GTX 970 with that exact defect. i removed the inductor but it turned out the gate of the dead powerstage (only a single powerstages was connected to the 12V power plane that was shorted so it was easy to tell which one was blown) was shorted to ground. i removed the powerstage with hot air but the card still doesn't turn on. either it's detecting the missing stage and it goes into safety mode or me removing phase#1 on a card that only runs phase#1 in idle is the problem if the card can't detect if a phase is gone
EDIT: after changing nothing about the card it started to work again. maybe it was still too hot from the hot air station or something else. it is booting now.
The Mosfet has a thermal warning pin which can be used to shutdown the card but i don't know if Palit uses the pin.
Either you triggered the thermal warning or you don't have good connection. A stress test will tell you the answer :)
i cant remember how i clicked an unlisted video what
Actually Hardcore Overclocking, What would you say in this situation: My Titan x Maxwell when running load like Valorant and sometimes it does this with League of Legends but the issue is that I get a graphics card error, white screened until the game is is 'end tasked'. I noticed it was getting really hot about 83c. I changed the thermal pads and paste and it has been running cool but its still doing the same thing with the white screen and graphics card error. I inspected the card's components but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary visually.
Is there a follow-up with that card? Curious if the core itself survived 🤔
I didn't know that a custom titan x existed.
Are you interested in a PCB breakdown of a Vega 56 Nitro+ non-limited?
hey man i was just curious are you a electrical engineer or something? watched your server breakdown and was curious
I hear 2 buildzoids at the beginning
Buildzoid Mod Mat aka blue shop towel
I have an EVGA 980 Ti with the bottom VRM blown up, im in the process of replacing it. I got the VRM removed already and im waiting for the component to arrive. Soldering and desoldering on that spot is a pain tho.. I needed 400 degrees on a SMD reflow station to warm up the groundplane enough. Im not sure if I can resolder the new component properly without overheating everything. Can the card also run with a powerstage less?
The key of soldering with hot air and a lot of groundplane is to first warm up the surrounding area of the MOSFET. You have to wave the nozzle with some distance around the soldering area for some time and after that you place the component and heat it up to the final melting point. Don't place it and then heat up the PCB. It causes unnessecary stress to the component.
Besides the temperature of your hot air station, you also have to look at your airflow, distance and nozzle size. Thats why i can't give you detailed instructions on which settings,etc to use...every equipment is different.
The components can handle some abuse if you don't cook them for 2 minutes :D
@@basti8878 i preheated the surrounding area with ~260 degrees on a diatance for several minutes, it was still harder than i expected. Its not the first time i tried something like this.
They're just more stubborn than normal smd components
@@unlimiteddy5546 Yeah the 980Ti takes a looooot of heat because of the huge multilayer ground. On my first 980Ti repair i was surprised how much heat they take compared to a 970/980.
On my Quick 861DW i use 450 degrees and 90 l/min which is overkill for normal components. I preheat both sides and use a lot of distance so i don't have to switch between temperature.
Good luck on your repair
Those look like EK thermal pads if they are that's how they are shiny on one side
How did those heatpipes get so dented up?
Still waiting for the 980ti kingpin to be fixed. Maybe the titan x transplant on the kingpin pcb?!?
BZ should make his own graphics card, I'd buy one lol
& I got a GTX 460 cyclone that posts but the image is all fudged up, not sure what's wrong with it . Got it for only like $20 on eBay 😂
those kind of thermal pads don't have plastic on them. They are just... crappy like that. I destroyed one trying to get the "plastic" off.. I don't know why they exist. I don't know where they come from but I see them sometimes on used cards where an owner changed the pads for some reason or another.
Last time i was this early Buildzoid hadn't grown hair on his arms yet!
ek sends the same thermalpads
Why buildzoid uses such an expensive multimeter? Are there any other benefits apart from, I assume, reliability and precision of the measurements?
That meter is frustratingly slow , get a better one
it measures really low resistances
"If you have an overpowered VRM it is extremely unlikely it will fail, ever".
This is basically why I buy mid range overclocking motherboards even though I'm not an overclocker. The better components are good for longevity. I have a Rampage IV formula motherboard that's close to 8 years old and a Sabertooth X58 that's about 10 years old and they're still going strong.
I guess my board was defective my RAmpage IV sucks, constant pc oc fail, ram detection issues, etc.
@@TogasLawn Sounds like one of the components might be at least partially damaged. Depending on your level of skill it might be possible to locate and replace it.
If there are any round caps on that mobo look for any that are bulging out on top. It means they have likely overheated and expanded and may not be performing properly. That's the limit of my knowledge. For anything further I would recommend checking out 'Actually Hardcore Overclocking' on youtube for more detailed information.
I would check for you myself but I've had a few drinks tonight. :)
“Let’s get the plastic tub for all the parts” No GN modmat?
rs1 not reading and rs2 and rs3 and my apw7142 vr883 chip is getting hot. can you help me pls?:D
I think I just blew my GTX 1060 after overclocking it, its detected but error code 43 on device manager, if I connect HDMI directly to the card, nothings are shown up.
Louis Rossmann uses some kind of alcohol to detect shorted MOSFETs on Macbooks Pros, why not try something similar here?
Why not a multimeter in resistance or continuity mode?
@@kelvinyonger8885 I find having a bit of alcohol around makes all my trouble shooting more fun. :)
LoL that swiss army knife gives me the verge flashback
I have a question, is a 16 phase vrm overkill for a 3700x?
Yes sir not overkill per se but you will never be starved of power
epower it!!!!!!
it's funny because I've bought dead cards that also had the plastic on the pads, lol always a good feeling!
Could you theorecticaly upgrade the power stages?
If powerstage is removable (unlike i had, it was "welded" into groundplane), and if there are higer spec powerstages for that package and pinout.
Yes, a RX480 Nitro with IR3553m MOSFETs can be upgraded to IR3550s. If you can even find them, that is.
It actually doing anything useful is another story though.
I never buy reference Nvidia PCB's anymore. They fail so many times. Had a GTX 780 from EVGA with reference Nvidia PCB, it died after two years. They then gave me a refurb 780, which also died within a few months. These cards easily hit 85-87 C under load despite custom cooler, imagine how hot those VRM's must have been. Subsequently bought a custom PCB MSI 1070 and it still runs perfectly after nearly 3 years (also much lower temps). Only buying custom PCB cards from now on, I want cards that can survive at least 4 years of daily abuse.
I have never had an amd gpu ever die on me. Can`t say the same for novideo gpus tho.
HELLO
Just scored one of these for $120usd.
First repair then oc until broken!!!🤣
Lazarus The adventurer Rinse (in LN2) and repeat! 🤓
I had no idea there were titan cards not directly from Nvidia
Only the cooler, technically every card is from nvidia and AIB's make vbios changes and make a different cooler and shroud
@@thomasbutalid9695 Also PCB changes, not in this case but usually they do make higher-end custom PCBs
@@kelvinyonger8885 he's saying the Titans were all reference PCBs
You know what would be really cool? If the 3300x existed and could be purchased for $120.
..NVidia has prob invested in a shitton of those VRM chips and is going to use em even though a different design with better controllers would be better for long term performance..the reality of economics..
first
second
last
@@Bobzillaaaful ha took your position of last
@@deminybs super duper last
Please clear that thermal paste.
Thanks for video.
Builds weed hahahaha
Kind of shitty to get a (even if broken) Titan X, forgetting about it for ages, and not even bothering to contact the sender with a "sorry, what was the problem?" or looking back at it, tbh.
Were you the sender?
Because BZ's number one priority must be a dead GPU from 3 generations ago... seriously mate... chill.
@@deminybs No, but you know, just out of politeness a single "hey dude, took a while to get to it, full schedule. Mind telling me again what was wrong?"
Or looking at the message history.
Just showing you give a fuck, pretty much.