This video is factually correct, however the "I" terminal is also used on some Duraspark vehicles as well, as the Duraspark coil is essentially a Point Coil with goofy terminals and is running on 8-10V ballast wire just like the points system. Also there is another part to the Ford Starter not covered in this video, unlike the GM or integral solenoid starter, the solenoid does not actuate and "time" the bendix to the flywheel, on the Ford Style, under the hump on top there is a lever and a magnetic plate with a set of "points" so that when the solenoid sends the starter power, gives the Field coil around the magnetic plate power pulling it downward, putting the bendix into mesh, upon completion of that movement the points close, allowing the Brushes of the "motor" to be energized, and therefore turning the starter and the engine over. It sounds complicated but in practice it works very well, provided the battery, solenoid, and starter are in good shape... The solenoid being the weak link, I recommend that if yours is still working properly, replace it, and put the good used one in the glove box, it will save you many headaches on a rainy cold night. (I had such problems with the first Chinese ones, I had TWO known good spares, one on fender next to one in use, and one in glove box!)
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Is there a starter solenoid similar to this one, but instead of an 'S' and 'I' terminal, has a 'S' and 'G' terminal, where the 'G' and go to a switched ground like for a Chrysler style neutral safety switch?
clear this up please, I believe that "S' and 'I' are NOT EVER electrically connected, either Normally closed or switched as a normally open contact would be. I think "I" is internally connected to the big terminals and is only energized when the "s" terminal receives 12 volts from the ignition switch. Put another way, "S" does not energize any other terminal, "S' only connects all three of the other terminals together. (This would make sense because once the coil wa grounded to allow the remote solenoid to make the contacts, no voltage would seek a higher resistance path to ground at the starter, and it could not operate)
What hapen if you actualy use that terminal thats not normaly used to start the starter? I have a gm s and r terminal starter selenoid I need that thing to bypass curent for starting assistance in winter time my coil pops the fuse wher ever I put a lead to my ignition coil its induction triger stille distributor with 4 pin gm ignition module on a e core type ignition coil. I have no clue if tha ignition module is polarity sensitive ore not. But Im in need for amplifier to boost my coil and perfomance spark plug and leads. Is there any thing that I can do? I actualy over spin my starter motor with super capacitors that helped some what. But my spark is still shity. Any ideas what to do ore how to make a 2 coil e core type waste spark configuration? I wuld like to add sequentional fiering and polarity swaps . So I need a device that performs that task Im actualy runing multy grade fuel types so I need bouth plazma high voltage and amplifier high amps for my set up. I runing all cinde of crap vaporisators etc. So any help wuld by great
I have a 51 Lincoln but it has a ford solenoid and my starter stays on even after I start it also while it’s running. The only way It Shute off is if I turn the key to the off position but the car keeps running of course. Idk what it is
I kind of understand this a little, but I have a question if anyone can help? Does the I Terminal have Accessory Power meaning does this terminal stay Hit when the key is in the accessory position?
Question is: does it matter which of the (2) 12 volt (larger bolts) power terminals you hook up the 12 volt battery plus side too? My 12 volt battery + is hooked up to large bolt on the I side of the solenoid and the load + is hooked up to the large bolt on the S side of the solenoid.
Hi - I just replaced a starter in my 74 searay - it has the solenoid ON the started, and no extra i pin for ignition during cranking. I measured the coil + while idling and got around 7volts - I was thinking of putting a 400v diode between the starter switch from the key to the coil +, or should I run the staer off the original Ford remote solenoid as shown above? I bypassed it cos I didnt see the point of having 2 solenoids in series.. thanks
If it starts up easily when it's cold , then it isn't a problem, "I" (on Ford) is only for 12V at startup, helps with cold engines. Some systems (GM styles) don't even use the solenoid to supply 12v at startup to the ignition, often done at the ignition switch with a Start and a Run terminal
if that's a solenoid in your video and not a relay then why won't it start my starter which had a starter solenoid on it not a remote one but I tried to change it to a remote one and all I got was a click. PS installed the none remote and it works
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Excellent video! Thank you for sharing it!
Great video. Best and most concise explanation I have found of how the remote solenoid works.
This video is factually correct, however the "I" terminal is also used on some Duraspark vehicles as well, as the Duraspark coil is essentially a Point Coil with goofy terminals and is running on 8-10V ballast wire just like the points system. Also there is another part to the Ford Starter not covered in this video, unlike the GM or integral solenoid starter, the solenoid does not actuate and "time" the bendix to the flywheel, on the Ford Style, under the hump on top there is a lever and a magnetic plate with a set of "points" so that when the solenoid sends the starter power, gives the Field coil around the magnetic plate power pulling it downward, putting the bendix into mesh, upon completion of that movement the points close, allowing the Brushes of the "motor" to be energized, and therefore turning the starter and the engine over. It sounds complicated but in practice it works very well, provided the battery, solenoid, and starter are in good shape... The solenoid being the weak link, I recommend that if yours is still working properly, replace it, and put the good used one in the glove box, it will save you many headaches on a rainy cold night. (I had such problems with the first Chinese ones, I had TWO known good spares, one on fender next to one in use, and one in glove box!)
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
Will a faulty solenoid cause intermittent stalling when driving or idling..My car will just shut off like plug was pulled. Sometimes it shuts off then comes back on, other times it just shuts off and stalls while driving or idling. Everything has been checked by 2 shops and no one knows whats wrong.
What wires or jumper are installed on the old solenoid?
Is there a starter solenoid similar to this one, but instead of an 'S' and 'I' terminal, has a 'S' and 'G' terminal, where the 'G' and go to a switched ground like for a Chrysler style neutral safety switch?
clear this up please, I believe that "S' and 'I' are NOT EVER electrically connected, either Normally closed or switched as a normally open contact would be.
I think "I" is internally connected to the big terminals and is only energized when the "s" terminal receives 12 volts from the ignition switch.
Put another way, "S" does not energize any other terminal, "S' only connects all three of the other terminals together. (This would make sense because once the coil wa grounded to allow the remote solenoid to make the contacts, no voltage would seek a higher resistance path to ground at the starter, and it could not operate)
So is S terminal going to be positive or negative and does its go on the ignition coil or the keyswitch
Can u connect it this way with an hid distributor as well?
I have an old F150 and would like to use a kill switch withe solenoid, how would I wire it? Jim
Thanks for this explanation. I think I wired mine incorrectly. This helps!
What hapen if you actualy use that terminal thats not normaly used to start the starter? I have a gm s and r terminal starter selenoid I need that thing to bypass curent for starting assistance in winter time my coil pops the fuse wher ever I put a lead to my ignition coil its induction triger stille distributor with 4 pin gm ignition module on a e core type ignition coil.
I have no clue if tha ignition module is polarity sensitive ore not.
But Im in need for amplifier to boost my coil and perfomance spark plug and leads.
Is there any thing that I can do?
I actualy over spin my starter motor with super capacitors that helped some what.
But my spark is still shity.
Any ideas what to do ore how to make a 2 coil e core type waste spark configuration?
I wuld like to add sequentional fiering and polarity swaps .
So I need a device that performs that task Im actualy runing multy grade fuel types so I need bouth plazma high voltage and amplifier high amps for my set up.
I runing all cinde of crap vaporisators etc.
So any help wuld by great
Works for a electric fan ?
Where does the wire for electronic ignition go? No points.
I have a 51 Lincoln but it has a ford solenoid and my starter stays on even after I start it also while it’s running. The only way It Shute off is if I turn the key to the off position but the car keeps running of course. Idk what it is
I kind of understand this a little, but I have a question if anyone can help? Does the I Terminal have Accessory Power meaning does this terminal stay Hit when the key is in the accessory position?
Great explanation 👍
Question is: does it matter which of the (2) 12 volt (larger bolts) power terminals you hook up the 12 volt battery plus side too? My 12 volt battery + is hooked up to large bolt on the I side of the solenoid and the load + is hooked up to the large bolt on the S side of the solenoid.
Hi - I just replaced a starter in my 74 searay - it has the solenoid ON the started, and no extra i pin for ignition during cranking. I measured the coil + while idling and got around 7volts - I was thinking of putting a 400v diode between the starter switch from the key to the coil +, or should I run the staer off the original Ford remote solenoid as shown above? I bypassed it cos I didnt see the point of having 2 solenoids in series..
thanks
If it starts up easily when it's cold , then it isn't a problem, "I" (on Ford) is only for 12V at startup, helps with cold engines. Some systems (GM styles) don't even use the solenoid to supply 12v at startup to the ignition, often done at the ignition switch with a Start and a Run terminal
my problem is, the s and i are not even connected but every solenoid i put on just lets the power pass from the battery to the starter anyway
Sounds like you have a normally closed solenoid, not a normally open solenoid.
Gracias muy bien saludos
Does this work the same on a vw beetle?
That's a lot better than a GMC
"Bendix" is a brand name for a starter drive manufacturer.
Awesome
if that's a solenoid in your video and not a relay then why won't it start my starter which had a starter solenoid on it not a remote one but I tried to change it to a remote one and all I got was a click.
PS installed the none remote and it works
Very helpful. Fords are weird!
Excelente aporte mil gracias