Yeah, climbing during the summer, so they'll get really hot, and they'll probably have to spray each other with a hose in slow motion or something in order to cool down, but then they'll be all wet so they'll probably have to take their shirts off if they want to continue climbing, and then... I don't know, I'm just spit-balling here. Feel free to chime in with other ideas, you guys!
Now this is a prime example of a really good clickbait. With Magnus in the thumbnail it doesn't even leave room for questioning whether Magnus is in the video or not. We're all super excited to see Magnus and Louis together in a video. Well now that we clicked on it and Magnus appears not to be in the video, we quickly realize what the title was referring to and since it makes sense, we forget that we got hoaxed and kept watching the video in interest of what would be Louis's test results. And once the video ends, the viewers are pleased with the content and don't even realize how much they got scammed haha.
@@lordchampion2724 Could you provide me with your reseach behind that statement? All statements require reseach, experiments and DATA before a statement can be made.
@@LatticeTraining would be great to see the likes of Neil Gresham, Dave Macleod and Steve Mcclure on there! would've loved to see how John Gaskins measured up when he was still out pushing things too
I knew that Beto Rocasolano routesets at my gym, but I didn't know that he was stronger than Alex Megos. My mind will now aproach problems at my gym waaaaay different. 🤣🤣🤣
I would find Jan Hojer really interesting. I reckon in absolute values he must be one of the strongest on there as he weighs more than other top climbers. Also he is an absolute beast on the campus board.
You should test Yves Gravelle. He is a SUPER STRONG climber from canada. I mean he has some superstrong fingers. His hands are so strong, he decided to enter the world championship of grip competition (yes, it's also a sport in itself) and he won multiple gold medals.
Robert Lawson this is a critical force test. You can read one of our papers on it below 😊 www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_Determination_of_Finger_Flexor_Critical_Force_in_Rock_Climbers
Can you discuss Louis's relatively abnormal physical build? It seems to me that he has relatively broad shoulders and thinner legs. Do you have data to make generalizations on a build like this relative to others?
Hey could you maybe explain in another video why and what you changed in your test. In the test with Magnus you had many other exercises. Is the old data comparable to the new with other tests? Also for the 2 arm deadhangs: the hands are at a fixed distance, would that impact smaller/bigger climbers or does the distance not matter for max power?
Zyhmet we use a number of different testing protocols with our athletes so it all depends on what’s best/most appropriate on the day! In this case we had a computer malfunction so the digital board was out of action. We were also testing a RUclipsr Andrew McFarlane so we wanted to stick to weights for simplicity 😊
@@LatticeTraining How does that skew the results though? Wouldn't Magnus have been a lot more tired given that he did much more, making it impossible to perform at top level in the last exercises?
Mayasounds we don’t process filming results in the same way as we do with others. The results from Magnus and Louis don’t go into our main data set either as they’re not collected via normal protocols and ordering of testing. All of the “climbing ledge on a reasonably priced edge” features are fun and in many ways are similar to the way the Top Gear stuff is done - it embodies the ideas but don’t get too fixated on details 🙂. We could do totally serious testing films but we’re not sure anyone would want to watch them?! 😂
Holy smokes, who the heck is Beto Rocasolano? It's interesting to see the leader board. Some big-name climbers who everyone knows about, but it's dominated by lots of people who don't get as much press.
Does anyone know why there is a small weight attached to the pulley when Louis is doing his one-arm hangs, even though he has added weight on his harness?
TheSe77e we always allow a 1kg counterweight on single arm max hangs as it prevents the rotational issue that many people find at their limit. Nice simple and effective fix! 😊
I noticed that Louis straightened his Index finger during the one arm weighted hangs. Is that okay to do during Max Hangs or is it better to try to use less weight and keep Index and Middle fingers at 90 degrees for max hangs?
Mandy, this session we were using “preferred grip” as the option (we have a model for open, half crimp and preferred) as it was a fun filming day and non-standard protocols were used. This is one of the issues with filming testing - you can’t actually use the data quite in the same strict way as with full testing as we’re on a silly time schedule, some stuff gets re-filmed and we swap tests around. I guess this is one of the main reasons why we don’t film our clients/athletes as a profiling session would take about 6hrs 😂
Lattice Training understandable and thanks for getting back to me. So when doing max hangs, should I aim to have the first 2 fingers at 90 degrees even if it means I can hang less weight?
So i'm curious cause I just saw the testing bits from magnus. Was this just s striped down version of the entire testing suite? Cause there was no strenght testing on the bench and most prominently no strenght test "screamy bit" suffering on the endurance strenght test? Or were they cut out due to video length?
StevenXvanXhorst it’s actually down to the fact that we have lots of different testing protocols in our toolkit and we have to somewhat match up what’s most appropriate on the day! This becomes especially relevant when trying to film as well 😁. Once we’ve done a few more of these I think we’ll make a decision about what looks/works best “on screen” and go forward from there. Hope that helps clarify!
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the reply! Oh okay, that makes total sense^^! Awesome and interesting video btw, looking forward to your upcoming uploads :)!
Yes it's % of bodyweight held. So if you're 70kg and add 7kg then your score would be 110%. You can put in test scores on our free FingerFinger report here if you have a testing rung :-) latticetraining.com/assessments/
Psychologists would have a field day with that statement. The Dunning Kruger effect; he fails to adequately assess their level of competence - or incompetence - at a task and considers themselves more competent than they actually are.
@@hewhotellsastory though I know what you are trying to say, It seems you have woefully misplaced that sentiment into this scenario. Dunning Kruger would certainly not apply in anyway that makes sense to this statement as he said it and when he said it. In the midst of testing to bring forth a preconceived notion of the outcome would be extremely deleterious to the process of testing. Quite the Dunning-Kruger effect on display to suggest otherwise.
Not into climbing since a long time, started with Magnus Midtbø's channel only like 3 months ago. But what i can say from the leader board: you guys probably also watched too much Top Gear... (is there even something like too much Top Gear???) only talking of the UK version with James May, Richard Hammond and Jeremy Clarkson btw.
I would like a go of this. I'm no p4o climber though! Been climbing buildings and trees since i was little and sport climbing the past, well month maybe? Climbing at a 6b level consistently but I can nearly manage some 7a+ climbs. So curious how an noobie like myself compares to professional athletes.
For a moment I was afraid for my boii but it turned out as it should, Magnus is da beast. (I'm not sure how I feel about putting people on the same leaderboard while having different testing protocol. You'll say it's "just for fun" but at the same time you benchmark them with a very specific numbers, so to me it's simply wrong and misleading).
I'm actually surprised that Magnus is that low on the board. He must have been off when they tested him, as he has insane finger strength and can do things very few people can do. Nice work on the board Louis
In any case, he isn't competing any more, so these numbers are just more or less his baseline as a keen hobbyist. His numbers when he was at his best would be an interesting comparison.
It's crazy how close magnus and louis are in terms of strength even though their tranining is totally opposite. Magnus seems to train a ton while Louis sticks to his drills on the wall and yet they end up so close. To be fair magnus doesnt need strong fingers as much since hes also a route climber but still....
as a hobby climber, i'd like to know what filthy casuals like myself grade up in that scoring matrix.
It's exactly what we do as part of our assessment services! Details on our website :-)
I'm going to start using this phrase for myself as well lol. i.e. "As a filthy casual, ..."
Very good video! You should definitely make more of this🙌🏼
You should do a colab with Bouldering Bobats and Louis!
Man your videos are the inspiration! Thanks for being so generous with your advice! We got very psyched 👍👍👍
Id love to see a showdown with louis!
@@taisinclair9033 he has done a colab with bobats
Magnus is my hero! The reason I got into climbing and the reason climbing is my life right now!
Who wants to see a video starring Louis Parkinson and Magnus Midtbø?
Yeah, climbing during the summer, so they'll get really hot, and they'll probably have to spray each other with a hose in slow motion or something in order to cool down, but then they'll be all wet so they'll probably have to take their shirts off if they want to continue climbing, and then... I don't know, I'm just spit-balling here. Feel free to chime in with other ideas, you guys!
@@Icksister1 wtf
@@Icksister1 🤣
Nobody!
@@Icksister1 nahhh bro tripping 💀
It would be cool to see Adam Ondra on these tests, he has a fast-paced climbing style which could result in interesting data.
he has an injury now tho
I think someone like Ai Mori would be interesting on the lattice board as she goes really slowly on lead climbs but never seems to get tired.
@@David-ud9ju she's also just sick
you should invite Adam Ondra after Tokyo 2020... would love to see him on his max performance level under observation
that would be insanely cool
Interesting yes
Now this is a prime example of a really good clickbait. With Magnus in the thumbnail it doesn't even leave room for questioning whether Magnus is in the video or not. We're all super excited to see Magnus and Louis together in a video. Well now that we clicked on it and Magnus appears not to be in the video, we quickly realize what the title was referring to and since it makes sense, we forget that we got hoaxed and kept watching the video in interest of what would be Louis's test results. And once the video ends, the viewers are pleased with the content and don't even realize how much they got scammed haha.
Sees thumbnail: "Huh, I wonder how he compares to Magnus"
Sees title:"Ah, well now I have to watch it.'
Really fun to see Louis on this. But holy shit Alex Migos!
*Megos :)
@@elfriederich Alex Migos is my favorite rapper, fam
"I never have thoughts, I just look at data"
That's why scientists can't measure or predict anything for shit
I loved that line hahaha well said Tom!
@@lordchampion2724 Except for when they do, all the time and do it better in their fields then a random layperson would.
@@lordchampion2724 Could you provide me with your reseach behind that statement? All statements require reseach, experiments and DATA before a statement can be made.
@@imagzz4942 that's exactly why you're an idiot. You just asked for a study about how studies can't predict a lot of events. Big brain you got there.
loving the top gear style leaderboard, can't wait to see more pros on there
Oscar Ricca-McCarthy we couldn’t help ourselves 😁Any requests for who we ask?!
@@LatticeTraining Dave McLeod would be really cool
@@LatticeTraining would be great to see the likes of Neil Gresham, Dave Macleod and Steve Mcclure on there!
would've loved to see how John Gaskins measured up when he was still out pushing things too
@@LatticeTraining Would be great to have some strong ladies on it. Maybe Janja and Shauna for a start? :)
@@LatticeTraining Any of the american outdoor boulderers, Jimmy W, D Woods, keenan, shawn
time to google Beto Rocasolano
Mani the Monkey 😂 phew, I'm not the only one.
Hi mani im ahuge fan
I knew that Beto Rocasolano routesets at my gym, but I didn't know that he was stronger than Alex Megos.
My mind will now aproach problems at my gym waaaaay different. 🤣🤣🤣
Really good video thanks for sharing. I like the friendly going for magnus approach , Would be fun to see those two climb together .
I would find Jan Hojer really interesting. I reckon in absolute values he must be one of the strongest on there as he weighs more than other top climbers. Also he is an absolute beast on the campus board.
You should test Yves Gravelle. He is a SUPER STRONG climber from canada. I mean he has some superstrong fingers. His hands are so strong, he decided to enter the world championship of grip competition (yes, it's also a sport in itself) and he won multiple gold medals.
This guy. He is the strongest on boards I’ve ever seen. They need to test him
Sure enough, he broke the record
Is there video of the tests for the top 3 climbers on the leaderboard? Would be cool to see how they react to it.
What was the test you did with Magnus where you had to pull as hard as you could for 7 seconds, then rest, and repeat for 6 minutes???
Robert Lawson this is a critical force test. You can read one of our papers on it below 😊 www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_Determination_of_Finger_Flexor_Critical_Force_in_Rock_Climbers
Lattice Training was there a reason you didn’t do it with Louis?
@@littlelawson06 they said in another comment they had a computer malfunction on the day
has Dave MacLeod given this a go yet... it would be very interesting to see how he stacks up 🙂. great video guys keep em coming 🙂. Well done Louis.
That would be the best test IMO a very analytical climber put to the test
I would have loved to see Kajsa's video... every time I see her climbing at EKB's channel I'm amazed by how strong and solid she is in every move
I want a Louis v Magnus competition on someone’s channel. I think someone’s ego would take a massive hit, and, unfortunately, it wouldn’t be Magnus’.
Can you discuss Louis's relatively abnormal physical build? It seems to me that he has relatively broad shoulders and thinner legs. Do you have data to make generalizations on a build like this relative to others?
thesii213 I think he said he has an ape index of +15cm. So yeah relatively abnormal.
“The mighty magnus” I like that
Love the Top Gear leaderboard reference!
I've been wanting to see these two together so bad! You should see if you can get them together for a collab.
Can i watch Alex Megos doing this test somewhere?
Not yet, but he is welcome to come down for a test!
at the beginning of the video Magnus had 106% and at the end it was 107%... whats going on? ;)
science
I love love LOVE watching the scientific analysis of climbers. Absolutely love it.
Hey could you maybe explain in another video why and what you changed in your test. In the test with Magnus you had many other exercises.
Is the old data comparable to the new with other tests? Also for the 2 arm deadhangs: the hands are at a fixed distance, would that impact smaller/bigger climbers or does the distance not matter for max power?
I was also wondering about that, did he do the other tests off camera?
Zyhmet we use a number of different testing protocols with our athletes so it all depends on what’s best/most appropriate on the day! In this case we had a computer malfunction so the digital board was out of action. We were also testing a RUclipsr Andrew McFarlane so we wanted to stick to weights for simplicity 😊
@@LatticeTraining How does that skew the results though? Wouldn't Magnus have been a lot more tired given that he did much more, making it impossible to perform at top level in the last exercises?
Mayasounds we don’t process filming results in the same way as we do with others. The results from Magnus and Louis don’t go into our main data set either as they’re not collected via normal protocols and ordering of testing. All of the “climbing ledge on a reasonably priced edge” features are fun and in many ways are similar to the way the Top Gear stuff is done - it embodies the ideas but don’t get too fixated on details 🙂. We could do totally serious testing films but we’re not sure anyone would want to watch them?! 😂
@@LatticeTraining Well, the climbers seem to take the results pretty seriously ;) thanks for the explanation!
Louis! you are fantastic!! I love your humble nature and positive energy
That moment when 104% BW on one arm isn't considered ridiculously strong
Yea but its just not
on the lattice edge. anybody who isn't obese can hang 104% BW with one arm on a jug.
@@bboyHarrypotter its a 20mm edge
I kept having to adjust the volume. The music is way way too loud for the quietness of the people talking.
Vamos Beto!!
ide love to take this test as a beginner just to see how bad i do 😂
Holy smokes, who the heck is Beto Rocasolano?
It's interesting to see the leader board. Some big-name climbers who everyone knows about, but it's dominated by lots of people who don't get as much press.
I need more of this
How small are those Beastmaker wood edges?
I'm very curious as to how Adam Ondra will do in these tests.
Hey Guys! Can you try and get a Japanese climber called Shinichiro Nomura to do the test? I think he might brake some records.
Did they mention how tall and how heavy he is ?
Do the micro flicks make that much of a difference?
How much dose he weigh? Can anyone tell me, please?
Does anyone know why there is a small weight attached to the pulley when Louis is doing his one-arm hangs, even though he has added weight on his harness?
It’s to stop the spin that you often get on single arm hangs at max. Just 0.5-1kg is enough to sort it
@@LatticeTraining thanks!
Wow is beto rocasolano stronger than alex megos in this test? That´s interesting
Gret job guys! I was wondering why in the one arm test he's still has some weight taken off even when performing the hangs with overload?
TheSe77e we always allow a 1kg counterweight on single arm max hangs as it prevents the rotational issue that many people find at their limit. Nice simple and effective fix! 😊
This was hard to find, you might want to tag wide boyz in the search tags!
Why does no one talk about beto?
How big is the edge used for the 1 hand hang!?! 20mm?
Henry O'Donnell 20mm edge with a 10mm radius - details on our website!
@@LatticeTraining Awesome...thanks!
Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but how many millimeters are the single arm hang ledge and the dual arm hang ledges?
Single arm was on 20mm one arm was on 10mm I believe
I noticed that Louis straightened his Index finger during the one arm weighted hangs. Is that okay to do during Max Hangs or is it better to try to use less weight and keep Index and Middle fingers at 90 degrees for max hangs?
Mandy, this session we were using “preferred grip” as the option (we have a model for open, half crimp and preferred) as it was a fun filming day and non-standard protocols were used. This is one of the issues with filming testing - you can’t actually use the data quite in the same strict way as with full testing as we’re on a silly time schedule, some stuff gets re-filmed and we swap tests around. I guess this is one of the main reasons why we don’t film our clients/athletes as a profiling session would take about 6hrs 😂
Lattice Training understandable and thanks for getting back to me. So when doing max hangs, should I aim to have the first 2 fingers at 90 degrees even if it means I can hang less weight?
So i'm curious cause I just saw the testing bits from magnus. Was this just s striped down version of the entire testing suite? Cause there was no strenght testing on the bench and most prominently no strenght test "screamy bit" suffering on the endurance strenght test? Or were they cut out due to video length?
StevenXvanXhorst it’s actually down to the fact that we have lots of different testing protocols in our toolkit and we have to somewhat match up what’s most appropriate on the day! This becomes especially relevant when trying to film as well 😁. Once we’ve done a few more of these I think we’ll make a decision about what looks/works best “on screen” and go forward from there. Hope that helps clarify!
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for the reply! Oh okay, that makes total sense^^! Awesome and interesting video btw, looking forward to your upcoming uploads :)!
StevenXvanXhorst we’ll post up another by the end of the weekend! 🔥
@@LatticeTraining Already subscribed! I'm sure that number will only go up ;)!
More ledges pulling those edges please!
Awesome video!
Great!
It was such a fun day!
In this 1-arm test does strength scale with weight?
weakfingers_ no, not that well! It does scale well with boulder or sport grade though 😊
@@LatticeTraining What is the scaling/best fit? I assume it to not be linear
does the 132% on alex megos score mean +32% of his body weight?
Corey Henderson that’s exactly it 😬
Wait Magnus was in the bottom third of your leader board?!? Fuck, There are some superhumans living out in the big wide world.
Check on Beto Rocasolano
could you tell me what represents the %? its (mass/bodyweight)*100 ??
thanks a lot :D
Yes it's % of bodyweight held. So if you're 70kg and add 7kg then your score would be 110%. You can put in test scores on our free FingerFinger report here if you have a testing rung :-) latticetraining.com/assessments/
Tom Randall casually helping
3:10 why not straight arm?
preference for oah
Can we see alex megos get tested?
For covid?
Is it just me or was Magnus' testing way harder than this?
SuperAwesomeVidya Magnus just takes his top off more 😎
Its a standart test
@@gianmartial Standard, darts is a sport... xD
@@LatticeTraining 😂
Nah they just showed more of it I think and he didn't push himself as hard as Magnus maybe?
4:53 robot confirmed 🤖😂
04:53
Hahahah. Tom in a nutshell
If I could suggest one person to take the test, it would be Vadim Timonov, he would crush this ;)
xXsk8mafiaFLIPXx Agreed!! We should get him over!
get jongwon chon on if possible!!!
Ollie sounds just like prof Brian Cox
you need matt fultz to come try it
Adam Ondra next please.
nice video, but music is ~500% louder than voices
Psyched!
‘I never have thoughts. I just look at data.’ May be one of the purest scientific statements I have ever heard.
Psychologists would have a field day with that statement. The Dunning Kruger effect; he fails to adequately assess their level of competence - or incompetence - at a task and considers themselves more competent than they actually are.
@@hewhotellsastory though I know what you are trying to say, It seems you have woefully misplaced that sentiment into this scenario. Dunning Kruger would certainly not apply in anyway that makes sense to this statement as he said it and when he said it. In the midst of testing to bring forth a preconceived notion of the outcome would be extremely deleterious to the process of testing. Quite the Dunning-Kruger effect on display to suggest otherwise.
i though Mangus would be in the video... then ill subscribe
Loved it 😄
To be fair though.... Magnus is a beast
I climb a lot nowadays
Not into climbing since a long time, started with Magnus Midtbø's channel only like 3 months ago. But what i can say from the leader board: you guys probably also watched too much Top Gear... (is there even something like too much Top Gear???) only talking of the UK version with James May, Richard Hammond and Jeremy Clarkson btw.
I was clickbaited into thinking magnus was in this vid
V13 “not spectacularly strong” he says 😂 - what do the percentages represent on the leaderboard?
I would like a go of this. I'm no p4o climber though! Been climbing buildings and trees since i was little and sport climbing the past, well month maybe?
Climbing at a 6b level consistently but I can nearly manage some 7a+ climbs.
So curious how an noobie like myself compares to professional athletes.
subscribed
I love torture vids!
For a moment I was afraid for my boii but it turned out as it should, Magnus is da beast. (I'm not sure how I feel about putting people on the same leaderboard while having different testing protocol. You'll say it's "just for fun" but at the same time you benchmark them with a very specific numbers, so to me it's simply wrong and misleading).
I'm actually surprised that Magnus is that low on the board. He must have been off when they tested him, as he has insane finger strength and can do things very few people can do.
Nice work on the board Louis
He is only low on that board cause it's a board with the very strongest climbers in the world
Nice content!
Cue Magnus goading Louis ;)
He predicted it pretty well.
Pooya Hatami darn these pro climbers 😁
... I didn't mean to do that!
Alex Megos 132% ? holy moly
Why would climbers avoid a cup of tea before the hang test lol?
Hahahaha, "Climbing ledge on a reasonably priced edge."
I see what you did there.
Glad you liked it. We debated for a while over that one. : )
2:00 magnus 106% 12:42 magnus 107% lol
He got stronger visiting Juji...
In any case, he isn't competing any more, so these numbers are just more or less his baseline as a keen hobbyist. His numbers when he was at his best would be an interesting comparison.
His middle fingers...I'm jelly.
5yrs later how about you get Louis back and see how he does now??
He looked high
I mean like he could climb high ;)
Sorry kids
adam Ondra!!!
It's crazy how close magnus and louis are in terms of strength even though their tranining is totally opposite. Magnus seems to train a ton while Louis sticks to his drills on the wall and yet they end up so close. To be fair magnus doesnt need strong fingers as much since hes also a route climber but still....
Invite Jan Hojer
Damn I try so hard to like Louis but he just makes it very difficult
Can Louis beat Magnu ? Press X to doubt.
Off
Not in a fight
Why doesn't he look as tired as Magnus? Haha
He didn’t do the critical force test.
Magnus is a god. Can't be beaten.
AleksQC except by the other dudes that beat him