Thanks a lot man, ex automotive tech spent a few years building transmissions and got it in my head I can handle anything. Was humbled quickly when I ventured into the small engine world. Great video and very informative will be another diagnostic I will keep in mind when wrenching. Learning to spend less time thinking I know anything and more time listening to folks like yourself. Much appreciated!
I have the BR 430 having the same problem. Was just about to take it to a shop when I found your video. Thanks to you, I can fix this. Just need to order the valve kit. Excellent video!
My BR600 is starting to get tough to start. I will be doing this repair myself. BTW, there are other videos out there on this but not by sweet mowa doby. So you've got that going for you.
Built into the plastic cam gear not exhaust valve, centrifugal mechanism lifts exhaust valve to release compression, excess valve lash causes the rocker arm to skip over the mechanical compression release mechanism. Set valves cold to .004 each on top dead center
Just use the STIHL feeler, it’s already set to 1mm/.004, it’s a foreign machine, .004 is American not metric. And a standard feeler gauge won’t have the correct tip to insert into the rocker where it sits over the top of the valve stem above the keeper plate.
Line up the flywheel Mark with the bottom coil mounting bolt but make sure its on the correct top dead center because there are two positions but on one is correct, if you put the piston tdc and slightly move the flywheel and the valve rocker arms move you need to rotate the piston 180 degrees more ...!
I have a question about this model. Is it possible to hook up the primer bulb wrong so it doesn't pull fuel into it. If it isn't possible could their be another reason why mine isn't drawing fuel into it?
It’s possible, but if you take the air cleaner housing off with the carb and fuel lines still attached, and turn it around, you’ll see how they are kind of routed in a way that forces you to do it right, also, an OEM primer bulb will have alignment notches built into it that are sized differently, so it only goes into the housing one way. Put your finger over each hole individually and push the bulb, you’ll figure out which one pulls and which pushes the air.
Also, if it isn’t filling up with fuel visibly when you push the primer, the line may have a hole or crack, or more likely, one or more check valves or your diaphragm inside the carb are dried out or disfigured. Get a $20 carb kit, install it with new fuel lines, I’ll bet it works great for a few years if you run the fuel out every winter when you’re done using it.
Could be they’re too tight and not closing. If you can look into the plug hole and see a valve head lodged into the piston crown, or a bunch of holes/gouges in the piston, well, there’s your problem. You can also remove the carb and muffler, put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, and put a little mix fuel out of a restaurant ketchup bottle-type deal into each port, it should stay in there for at least 10 seconds or so, otherwise you may have a burned valve and the fluid is leaking into the engine past the valve/seat.
I really hate to ask due too the need to Replace the Two gaskets* But what was the thickness of that feeler gauge? Pretty sure he didn’t say other than it’s paper thin or was it thinner than paper?.? Anyhow clearance digit’s would be awesome. Thanks
@@TomDobyMowerRepair thank you Sir. I just purchased a 600 from a pawn shop over in bossier city La. Said as is $69.99 complete blower. I pulled on cord and was like damn it ain’t because of lack of compression why it’s not running. I’ve got it torn down too the plastic stage of valve cover, of course my wife interfered with my progress. But I’ve noticed with plug out using 20V Dewalt too spin it, there’s no spark until it reaches I’m guessing 4-5 hundred rpm. Then it’s light blue using solid core wire in the boot too the block while spinning I can back it away 1/4” before I loose spark. Coil too flywheel/Bowtie is clean and I was testing it with kill wire disconnected. Gonna grab a new plug while she has me out honey doing. I did take a quick glance at clearance between coil and flywheel very little if any, I know it’s clearing but never seen one so close without hitting. Think I should gap it a tink? Sorry for rambling, I don’t like gapped stories thanks too you Sir! Where bouts you located?
Use a business card to gap most coils, and it’s possible, even highly likely the coil is bad, echo is good with lifetime coils, but STIHL isn’t that way. But they’re cheap last I had to buy one, I think it was $40. But that was a LONG time ago, over 10 years.
Question my BR600 blower is not hard to start. My problem is that when I go full throttle (0-100) it sounds like it wants to bog down. But when I slowly throttle it to full power it seems to run fine. Is the valve adjustment the culprit or is it something else?
Is this the same as a br700 it looks the same? I'm having the same problem dang I didn't know they had valves but I seen 4 stroke nitro motors before and that's basically the same concept
Matter of fact, same block between BR500/550/600/700 models, different carbs, housing, and blower wheels between some models, but all have the exact same block. Some have a different color updated cam gear, or a different wrist pin clearance, but that’s basically the only noticeable engine difference.
Could be internal like a bad bearing or a failing wrist pin in the piston. Pull the plug and recoil, get it to TDC on the POWER stroke, NOT the compression stroke. Normally on the power stroke the cam lobe is at the top, between the two “lifters”, so everything should be tight and either direction of the flywheel will open either the I take or the exhaust valve. If you can lightly rock the flywheel a little in either direction with the valves not moving at ALL, you may have a bad bearing or one that’s failing, or the piston is worn out and going to fail on you, taking out your engine. Or it could be a loose recoil, try to spin the flywheel by hand without the plug and see if it makes that noise, try my truck with the power stroke and look for play BEFORE the valves move, and if that happens, get a good used engine from a repair shop or eBay and swap it in, saving the bad one to dissect and learn.
@@TomDobyMowerRepair Ok, thanks. Must be a local issue. Quick question: I just replace the purge/primer bulb and have pushed several times and does not seem to be pulling gas in bulb. Any thoughts on if I may did it wrong?
@@TomDobyMowerRepair Got it. If is seems to be running good, Does that change what may be the cause? If running good, do I need to worry if the bulb is not pulling fuel?
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I have the STIHL BR 600 have the same issue. Thank you for your posted this video it help alot.
Excellent video, every detail is covered and you explain what to do and what not to do. Very helpful. I subscribed and I'll share this.
Thanks a lot man, ex automotive tech spent a few years building transmissions and got it in my head I can handle anything. Was humbled quickly when I ventured into the small engine world. Great video and very informative will be another diagnostic I will keep in mind when wrenching. Learning to spend less time thinking I know anything and more time listening to folks like yourself. Much appreciated!
I just got a br600 with the same symptoms, this is a perfect walk through. Thanks so much for posting!
I have the BR 430 having the same problem. Was just about to take it to a shop when I found your video. Thanks to you, I can fix this. Just need to order the valve kit. Excellent video!
The BR430 isn’t a 4-mix engine, it wouldn’t be the same issue causing this as the BR500/550/600/700 models that share the same engine.
Good one Tom, prefect timing on this video, love the hat.
Hey Tommy, great stuff , love your delivery and your camera work is spot on . Thanks soo much . Austin in Belfast 🙏
Thanks for the Education...
Great Video. 👍
Nice video and job Tom, I really like the hat too!! 👍🏼👊🏼
You sir are genius 💜💜
My BR600 is starting to get tough to start. I will be doing this repair myself. BTW, there are other videos out there on this but not by sweet mowa doby. So you've got that going for you.
I love it! Thanks a lot!
Thanks great video
good vid tom thanks keep up the vids
Excellent teacher
thank ya sir!
Thank you hoss!! You make this look simple!!
Great video sir
hi friend，Happy New Year !
Looks like you've done this before not as tough a job as I thought it would be 👍
nope it's let's do it girls...damn we work on things too
Built into the plastic cam gear not exhaust valve, centrifugal mechanism lifts exhaust valve to release compression, excess valve lash causes the rocker arm to skip over the mechanical compression release mechanism. Set valves cold to .004 each on top dead center
Just use the STIHL feeler, it’s already set to 1mm/.004, it’s a foreign machine, .004 is American not metric. And a standard feeler gauge won’t have the correct tip to insert into the rocker where it sits over the top of the valve stem above the keeper plate.
Hey Tom you should start making videos on the equipment and stuff u have coming Showing how to fix it.
good idea!
Line up the flywheel Mark with the bottom coil mounting bolt but make sure its on the correct top dead center because there are two positions but on one is correct, if you put the piston tdc and slightly move the flywheel and the valve rocker arms move you need to rotate the piston 180 degrees more ...!
Just what I needed to see Tommmm!! Does this same procedure apply to the BR200?
no a br200 is a 2 stroke, doesnt have valves
@@TomDobyMowerRepair THANK THE LORD!!🙏🏽🤣
@@NewVisionLCS yes!
@@TomDobyMowerRepair Best thing also, is that the BR450 is 2 stroke also!🥳🏋🏾♂️🇺🇸
thats why i'll be buried wearing my 400 😁
You didn’t show the winter and summer settings but great video Tom
The compression release is not in the valve it built in your cam gear dude
Hey thanks for watching dude!
👍👊
I have a question about this model. Is it possible to hook up the primer bulb wrong so it doesn't pull fuel into it. If it isn't possible could their be another reason why mine isn't drawing fuel into it?
It’s possible, but if you take the air cleaner housing off with the carb and fuel lines still attached, and turn it around, you’ll see how they are kind of routed in a way that forces you to do it right, also, an OEM primer bulb will have alignment notches built into it that are sized differently, so it only goes into the housing one way. Put your finger over each hole individually and push the bulb, you’ll figure out which one pulls and which pushes the air.
Also, if it isn’t filling up with fuel visibly when you push the primer, the line may have a hole or crack, or more likely, one or more check valves or your diaphragm inside the carb are dried out or disfigured. Get a $20 carb kit, install it with new fuel lines, I’ll bet it works great for a few years if you run the fuel out every winter when you’re done using it.
😮
does that work in reverse if there's no feel of compression at all that the valves are to tight ?
Yes, could be too tight or damaged
Could be they’re too tight and not closing. If you can look into the plug hole and see a valve head lodged into the piston crown, or a bunch of holes/gouges in the piston, well, there’s your problem. You can also remove the carb and muffler, put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, and put a little mix fuel out of a restaurant ketchup bottle-type deal into each port, it should stay in there for at least 10 seconds or so, otherwise you may have a burned valve and the fluid is leaking into the engine past the valve/seat.
I really hate to ask due too the need to Replace the Two gaskets* But what was the thickness of that feeler gauge? Pretty sure he didn’t say other than it’s paper thin or was it thinner than paper?.? Anyhow clearance digit’s would be awesome. Thanks
the feeler gauge comes with the kit, it also contains the valve cover gasket, i believe its .10 mm
@@TomDobyMowerRepair thank you Sir. I just purchased a 600 from a pawn shop over in bossier city La. Said as is $69.99 complete blower. I pulled on cord and was like damn it ain’t because of lack of compression why it’s not running. I’ve got it torn down too the plastic stage of valve cover, of course my wife interfered with my progress. But I’ve noticed with plug out using 20V Dewalt too spin it, there’s no spark until it reaches I’m guessing 4-5 hundred rpm. Then it’s light blue using solid core wire in the boot too the block while spinning I can back it away 1/4” before I loose spark. Coil too flywheel/Bowtie is clean and I was testing it with kill wire disconnected. Gonna grab a new plug while she has me out honey doing. I did take a quick glance at clearance between coil and flywheel very little if any, I know it’s clearing but never seen one so close without hitting. Think I should gap it a tink? Sorry for rambling, I don’t like gapped stories thanks too you Sir! Where bouts you located?
@@masonsowell8799 i'm in atlanta on the west side
@@TomDobyMowerRepair 10-4 on the west side of Atlanta..
Use a business card to gap most coils, and it’s possible, even highly likely the coil is bad, echo is good with lifetime coils, but STIHL isn’t that way. But they’re cheap last I had to buy one, I think it was $40. But that was a LONG time ago, over 10 years.
Question my BR600 blower is not hard to start. My problem is that when I go full throttle (0-100) it sounds like it wants to bog down. But when I slowly throttle it to full power it seems to run fine. Is the valve adjustment the culprit or is it something else?
just turn the high side screw adjuster out a quarter to half a turn
@@TomDobyMowerRepair my carb still has the limiter caps on still. Bought it second hand.
rip em outta there!
Thanks. I usually get carbs without caps but I figured if they are on there they were adjusted to where they need to be.
Is this the same as a br700 it looks the same? I'm having the same problem dang I didn't know they had valves but I seen 4 stroke nitro motors before and that's basically the same concept
yes it is
@@TomDobyMowerRepair thanks
Matter of fact, same block between BR500/550/600/700 models, different carbs, housing, and blower wheels between some models, but all have the exact same block. Some have a different color updated cam gear, or a different wrist pin clearance, but that’s basically the only noticeable engine difference.
After adjustment and still a bit hard to pull to where the string slips. What else could be at fault?
The cam gear itself may be damaged, that’s what houses the compression release, not the valve like this guy says.
@@theactualsalvagedrover I figured it out luckily it was simple. 👍🏻
Whats up tome my br600 making a rattle noise like if it was knocking what could be the issue
the fan could be loose, is it running good but making a noise? check the fan
It runs but if I let of it cuts off when I pull the cord a it makes a rattling noise
Could be internal like a bad bearing or a failing wrist pin in the piston. Pull the plug and recoil, get it to TDC on the POWER stroke, NOT the compression stroke. Normally on the power stroke the cam lobe is at the top, between the two “lifters”, so everything should be tight and either direction of the flywheel will open either the I take or the exhaust valve. If you can lightly rock the flywheel a little in either direction with the valves not moving at ALL, you may have a bad bearing or one that’s failing, or the piston is worn out and going to fail on you, taking out your engine. Or it could be a loose recoil, try to spin the flywheel by hand without the plug and see if it makes that noise, try my truck with the power stroke and look for play BEFORE the valves move, and if that happens, get a good used engine from a repair shop or eBay and swap it in, saving the bad one to dissect and learn.
Anyone having any issues ordering or finding the kit needed at your STHIL dealer?
no they're plentiful in the Atlanta area
@@TomDobyMowerRepair Ok, thanks. Must be a local issue.
Quick question: I just replace the purge/primer bulb and have pushed several times and does not seem to be pulling gas in bulb. Any thoughts on if I may did it wrong?
you can have the fuel lines crossed, or fuel filter or line may be clogged, or clog in the carb
@@TomDobyMowerRepair Got it. If is seems to be running good, Does that change what may be the cause? If running good, do I need to worry if the bulb is not pulling fuel?
should be pulling and getting near full