2001 Ford F150 Rear Differential Fluid Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2012
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AMSOIL Severe Gear SAE 75W140
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This Video deserves an Academy Award.
At 3:05 I noticed a small but important mistake. In my experience, you always want to leave one or two of the upper most bolts slightly threaded in before cracking the cover to drain. You don't want the cover to fall and possibly bend an edge, or else you may not get a full seal when you reinstall it. Just my opinion. Good video! I'm about to do this on my dad's 2002 F-150 5.4
Good tip. I will show it that way next time.
I have a lot of experience on what not to do but you explain it so anyone could do this. These videos are the best!
Thank you for the comment, it is greatly appreciated.
Dude, this is the Video I have been searching for. Super informative, very clear & well done. I wish you had a video for every maintenance of my F-150. Thank you
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair. Be sure to check out my other F-150 videos.
Hello! I own a '99 F-150 and went to do this very Job. I went to buy the silicon gasket maker, but they sold me a cork gasket and swore it was factory? I knew better, but I tried it. 3 weeks later, I'm doing the job again. Don't let auto parts stores tell you what to put on your vehicle.. It's yours, do what you want. Lol thanks for the vid! Going to start on mine now.
When removing the diff cover, it makes it easier to remove the bottom 3 bolts first, then get a flat head screwdriver and slightly pry the bottom apart to let the fluid drip out. That way you don't get fluid coming down the screwdriver and onto your hand.
Andrew S 😂 awesome advice
Good teach!!!!! May I add, I used super fine steel wool to clean off the mating surfaces before cleaning out the housing.
I use a die grinder with a fine grade cookie.
As a new driver who got a hand-me-down 2002 F-150, this video was super helpful to me! I noticed my diff was leaking, so I had to redo the gasket (The old fluid was real nasty, worse than what was in the video) and this was a lifesaver.
Thanks for the comment. Glad the video helped.
Good video, about to do it for the first time on my truck that year, just got it so I'm worried about it never being done. Thanks, the instructions in the shop book only go so far.
I have an 03 f150 much like the one in this video, I can assure you the axle lubricant is good for much longer the 30,000 miles under heavy loads. I pull trailers more often them most people, mostly throughout the summer, and i have 180000 miles on factory axle lube. I drive offroad often as well. You can see my profile pic is my truck pulling a 25ft trailer that weighs 6500lbs.. empty.. its for explosives (fireworks). I also pull my camper, 16ft trailer covered and uncovered. food for thought..
Another thing to check before applying the Permatex is to check the flatness of the cover along the gasket mating surface, or rim. The metal may be dimpled somewhat around each bolt hole, caused by gasket compression. This can be flattened with careful use of a hammer and a small bit of thick steel plate, working from the inside side of the cover. The surface must be supported on the back side (cover outside) by a solid surface, preferably a flat steel surface of some kind.
Thanks so much for sharing your video with us. I still enjoy my old Ford with 94,000 miles. Blessings to you!!!
Thank you for the comment. I hope it helped with your repair.
94K lol ? What a rookie. Try 413K on that exact F150 in the video.
Great video/ Thanks for taking the time Jon.
Your videos are a real confidence boost.
Thank you. I hope they have helped with your repairs and preventative maintenance tasks.
Thanks for the video. I need to take care of mine. Just started slipping about a month ago.
Ah after 15 years of having my 01 F150 I guess its time to change out the differential fluid. maybe that will stop that winding noise I hear... nice video thank you for posting...
you need to replace your differential. I replaced mine too when mine was making that noise. there was like 2 or 3 teeth broken
I got a mustang 2001 and I hear a windin noise when u push the gas pedal and car clunck when u start to drive..I guess thats a broken teeths or need differential fluid.
Sejad
thanks your video was very helpful. God bless you
That being said of coarse I do believe its good practice, just that effectively you can go longer safely. In a few weeks I plan on changing mine because I want to install a locker. Added note, i noticed you only get 12.3 city? Running 285/75/16 with 3.55 gears in town i get about 15, highway 20ish depending on speed. (20mpg 55-65, 75+ about 18.5-19mpg). my most recent fill-up i averaged 17.9mpg with about half highway/city driving. does 4wd account for the drop even if not engaged?
Would it be okay to clean with carb cleaner? Or anything of that sort?
Thanks Jon, another thing... the owner's manual says it takes like 3.19 liters of oil (little more than 3 quarters of galon) and also says some antifriction aditive ounces are required (dont remember the motorcraft part number). The oil is expensive here, I'm from Mexico so I will have to spend more than 100 USD for a galon. You think it's ok if I just replace the oil and forget about the aditive? Thanks in advance. [sorry about my english, not my main language]
great video for non-computer user. Thanks..
Does the differential fluid lubricate the wheel bearings, or is the axle tube sealed off at the differential housing?
(If it is open, additional oil can be drained by tilting the axle one side at a time.)
Excellent step-by-step video tutorial. Nice job.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
@P C B Less parts and pieces to break.
If you are replacing the oil with Amsoil Severe Gear (see link in video description), all the required additives are already in the Gear Lube Oil. I am not sure if conventional manufacturers put it in or not.
Hello, I'd also like to know the answer to this question... many people say that the wheel bearings are lubricated with the diferential oil but idk if that's true... I changed the front wheel bearings of my vehicle (one was damaged and decided to change both) and I want to know this before I decide to change the rear bearings (just for maintenance, don't think they need to be replaced).
how nice video?! congrats Jon. Easy to watch. :)
i have the same axle as you but with the 4.6L same transmission i believe. and i know why you havent changed out the spark pluggs yet, it took me 8 hours to get the factory ones out and replaced! be careful with the cheap 7mm bolt heads on the coil packs. half of mine stripped and i ended up braking cylinder 7s coil pack to get the bolt off. i replaced them all with grade 8 100 head bolts. preparing for the future lol.
Other than gear lube, what could you use in order to clean other contaminants out? I don't think you want to use brake cleaner. :)
Great Video! I could guess that on my Ford Escape that I bought in 2014, its fluid had never been changed since its "birth year" 2004. People mostly focus on engine oil change, less on transmission, and none on a differential. Finally, is the 30k miles the same average for all 4W drive cars? Thanks!
In many manuals, it specs the fluid as "lifetime" although it doesn't specify how long the "lifetime" of the fluid is. Some new 4wd vehicles are now installing break-in oil in the dif and requiring it to be changed at 30k. If you are using high quality fluid such as Amsoil Severe Gear www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-140/?zo=10458 your range can go from 50k to 250k depending on how and what you drive. Here is an article discussing it blog.amsoil.com/how-often-should-i-change-front-or-rear-differential-fluid/?zo=10458
What ended up being the torque spec on those bolts for the diff cover awesome video very informative thank you
Per the Chilton Manual: Rear Differential Fill Plug - 15-30 ft lbs, Rear Differential Cover Bolts for 2002 and earlier models - 28-38 ft lbs, and Rear Differential Cover Bolts for 2003 and later models - 24 ft lbs.
he is great at explaining how to do this thank you so much
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I never use a gasket masker I just buy the gasket and place a dap of grease in few spots to hold the gasket in place save time and money spent on permatex ..torch the bolts to the required specks no leeks from water pumps to differential cover..
How do you find out the recommended torque for tightening
Hi John, Is it necessary to use "lube slip" when using 75w 140?
I see where the manufacturer calls out a Ford lubricant but ALSO specifies that a specific amount of "Fluid Modifier" be added at the same time. This is for my 2003 F150.
By using the Amsoil Synthetic Fluid, do I still need to add the Fluid Modifier liquid or does the Amsoil fluid take care of that and supersede that Need?
Thanks for the excellent video and tips! It is GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks for the comment. If you are using AMSOIL Severe Gear SAE 75W140 www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-140/?zo=10458 you do not need to add any Friction Modifier as AMSOIL's Severe Gear Lube is already engineered for this specific application. However, not all differntials respond the same and with a very select few differentials you will sometimes get chatter to occur. In these few instances you can add Amsoil Slip Lock friction modifier additive. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/slip-lock/?code=ADATB-EA?zo=10458
Great video. Thank you!
Great video, step by step.
Thanks for the comment. I hope it helps with your repair.
Best video online for doing a differential change!
Have you dont any for the front tranfercase bro I have the fx4
Nice job.
how much on the torch for the bolts
I used regular heavy differential oil a month or so and replaced emergency brake on disc brakes and noticed a leak from axle seal again pulled differential cover to pull axle had a problem and had to put cover on THEN I put synthetic in until I could fix it kept an eye on the fluid and it didn’t leak anymore 3 months and still full with synthetic so it does make a difference , but I’ll still check it
Sounds like a successful fix.
Excellent video! Would you recommend amsoil synthetic on a 1994 F250?
Valvoline synthetic 75-140
Is it just me or the difference of how dirty was the drain plug and how the actual oil doesn't seem to be that dirty?
Great video.
I went to Walmart and bought my oils there they have the best prices. I have 02 F150 2x. With 175,000 miles on it I got the High Mileage Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 and a MotorCraft Oil Filter. For the 4.6 V8. For the rear end. I bought the.Valvoline synthetic 75w140. Bought a qt of Lucas oil stabilizer and I got the friction modifier from the Ford Dealer. Truck runs Super !
Sounds like you had a successful repair.
Insane Oil Hi Thank you for replying. Yes so far so good. Your videos help me a lot. The guy I bought this F150 Super Crew from, you could tell had money it was his baby he put a lot money into maintaining it and also had it lifted 4 inches gear change to a 410 limited slip 17 wheels off road tires. Truck runs Super I’m in California enjoying this truck daily. California gear head.
A narrow putty knife or paint scraper works better than a flat screwdriver for loosening the cover without damaging the mating surfaces.
That means your gasket is failing and your diff fluid is seeping out. This is corrected by removing the cover, servicing (as seen in the video), and reassembling with new gasket maker material.
Wish you would have made mention of the socket size for the diff bolts, just as an fyi.....also I've always teflon taped the fill plug to prevent possible leakage. Another note: with Limited Slip you should add Ford's Friction Modifier (XL-3) 4 ounces.
Thank you for your reply. I do know some people that use teflon tape as you noted. I have also heard of people preferring Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant as it holds up well in oil related situations. If you are using AMSOIL Severe Gear SAE 75W140 www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-140/?zo=10458 you do not want to add any Friction Modifier as AMSOIL's Severe Gear Lube is already engineered for this specific application.
Insane Oil, THANK you for this information! It has been a GREAT help!!
Muy buen video
gracias
whats the torque ...?
I watched your video the other night and just did mine today I did everything as you shown but I forgot to do the pump around the gears will that hurt anything? Oh and I had bought my own gasket and used a lil RTV just to help set it in place however no avail there just moved all over is there a certian time I need to let the RTV black set up? Somewhere I thouught a hour or so I just got everything done with it at 420 but I am letting the gasket stuff set up before putting fluid in I did already tighten and torque everything and some of the gasket material squished out which I know that wont hurt anything but I just wanna make sure I did everything correctly cause last thing I wanna do is screw up my truck lol
Re watching just to make sure and dbl checking I did things correctly so far so good other than hosing off the gears
mine also stunk like death it was not even nearly as clean as what your was it was rusty looking and really made me gag didnt smell anything like rear end should smell like. thanks for the great video man yes i caught the hr after watching it again lol
This stuff is like $25 a quart, it's not necessary to pump fluid around the gears to flush them out. Driving it with fresh fluid will clean the gears way better than just pouring some on random spots.
Good job Jon, thank you for the info.
Awesome job
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I have never changed this on my 2003 f150 which now has 186,000 miles. Would changing it cause more harm than good? Thanks mate.
If you take your time and do a good job of cleaning out your rear dif system and there is no excessive wear, I would highly recommend running new high quality fluid.
Any suggestions on how to get the differential cover off if stuck? There is a bit of rust but not a crazy amount. After removing the bolts, I cannot get the cover off and there is not enough space to get a screwdriver into the gap to try and pry it open. Thanks
Flatter screwdriver or a putty knife. Be gentle with it.
Did you noticed a change in your gas mileage?
I am tempting to switch to AMSOIL over to OEM motorcraft SAE 75W90 but I need to know if you have any issue at all after you used AMSOIL . thank you very much
In this video I was also switching from OEM to Amsoil. No issues thus far and it has been 6 years.
thank you very much
izcoronel ya anything fully synthetic is easily better than motor craft as most of their fluids are synthetic blends and not fully synthetic
Para pickup del 2012 es recomendable 75w140 atras lleva fuerza a delante 4X4 80w90
Puede consultar las especificaciones de su vehículo en www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/?zo=10458
What gear oil would you recommend for a 2018 f150 with the electronic differential? I was thinking Amsoil or royal purple or even valvoline but all of them contain some friction modifier additive would it be ok?
What type of engine do you have?
@@InsaneOil 5.0
@@JoaquinSanchez-db9gk Front Differential (3.6 Pints), Rear Differential (5.5 Pints). Both call for 75W-90 Severe Gear with no addition of aftermarket friction modifier www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-90-svg/?code=SVGPK-EA?zo=10458 If you are interested in saving 25% and getting free shipping on Amsoil when you order, add a Preferred Customer membership to your cart first. www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=10458
@@InsaneOil thank you
I want to know if it's really necessary to change the diferential oil, the ford owner's manual states that it's designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle and only recommends a change if the diferential has been immersed in water. Thanks people.
How many miles is considered the lifetime of the vehicle then? 100,000? 200,000?
A+ thanks.
you do not have to do as you said when taking the bolts out, only when installing them
it procedure is the same for the ford f150 2003, 4.6? thanks.
Procedure should be very similar
What if using any cleaner product.? Like brake cleaner for example.?
If you are using any cleaner product you need to ensure all of the cleaner is completely removed before adding fluid so it doesn't contaminant the new fluid.
I live Baltimore and i like to do that to my car it’s a great and clean job I got a ford 2002 explore
Well what about hosing it out with carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner if everything is dirty? Don’t you have to add the magic Ford friction modifier to it?
My concern with using cleaners is leaving residual chemical behind and getting mixed in with the new diff oil. As for the friction modifier...it is not needed if you are using Amsoil Severe Gear. www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?zo=10458
do you have any for the '04 f150's? my father said you need another additive for the diff fluid. and an 04 f150 4.6L would be nice to see done, dont want to pay $500 for someone else to do it.
The manufacturer often requires an anti-friction additive to be added when changing diff fluid. However, if you are replacing the diff fluid with Amsoil Severe Gear (see link in video description), all the required additives are already in the Gear Lube Oil. I am not sure if conventional manufacturers put it in or not. If you need help identifying the specific type of diff fluid or amount, e-mail me directly. zo1983724@gmail.com
thanks man, glad you know your stuff. hope i wont need to replace any gears when i take it apart in the summer time, too cold to do anything here right now.
Your rear end must be a limited slip, limited slip rear ends need a friction modifier for the clutches.
***** We are talking about Robert Crozier's rear end right? Maybe he has a limited Slip in his truck and needs the friction modifier from Ford. Amsoil is good stuff, but I would still add the Ford additive.
With that being said, why didn't you completely disassemble and clean all the components of the old gear oil? Just squirting the ring gear with new Amsoil isn't enough of a cleaning. Just saying....
Amsoil is not the only company that sells synthetic gear oil.
I thought you had to put a friction modifier with the gear oil?
Amsoil is king
Only if you have an LSD
how much oil did use on the rear end
Per the Chilton Manual - Rear differential for F150 is 5.5 to 6.9 pints
That oil is fresh and clean. No need to replace.
Looks can be deceiving.
So using gasket maker is better than using real gasket + sealant?
Not necessarily.
What if the outside of the rear differential looks wet when it haven't been wet.?
Means your truck was rode hard put away wet
do i need to add friction modifier
Friction modifier seems to only be needed in the LSD
My question EXACTLY!
I'm hoping to learn that the Amsoil Synthetic Fluid prevents the need for the modifier juice.
Only if you have an LSD if its an open differential you don’t need it. Friction modifier is for the clutches in a LSD dif
Do you add the modifier after you've filled it. Or do you add 1st then add the modifier? I just need to really know if I can add modifier or let fluid out to add modifier
DāboSue some fluids already have it in just check if the bottle says if it has it and yes you have to add friction modifier
You think 200,000 is too long to go without a diff oil change?
I think it might be time to swap out the fluids.
Its an 8.8 they are basically bulletproof
What is the gearing on that?
Rear axle is 9.75 inch, 3.55 Non-LS, 12 Bolt
2 quarts to get started. Make dam sure you use synthetic fluids. Extra cost more than pays for itself.
never would have guessed you would recommend amsoil. yeah we get it buddy you read the holy amsoil bible. im not goin to buy amsoil though im going to use royal purple.... does it burn?
What are the torque specs for the bolts on the 2001 F150?
Rear differential Fill Plug (15-30 ft lbs), Rear differential cover bolts 2002 and earlier models (28-38 ft lbs), 2003 and later models (24 ft lbs)
@@jonolson8876 Thanks!
Can you use break cleaner instead to clean all the differential better..??
Others have also commented that I could have cleaned it with brake cleaner. I am not sure if I am wild about introducing new chemicals into the system, since it isn't easy to pull it completely apart and wipe everything down.
@@InsaneOil crap I just notice I comentéd ln your video just 4 years ago lmao.. well I sold that truck never got to to the fluid on my diff but this time yes I’m willing to do it this weekend.. brake cleaner dry quick, I think also using a air gun and spray air in the differential ll help to dry up Quicker
@@santiagodavila1426 Keep in mind that there might be a pool of diff fluid at the bottom of the housing that may become contaminated with the brake fluid.
@@InsaneOil yes the very bottom rite.? I ll use some clothing towels to clean that really 😌 good
@@santiagodavila1426 Yes, at the very bottom. Good luck, let me know how it goes.
And what is the specific torque?
Rear Driveshaft Flange Yoke-To-Rear Axle Pinion Flange Bolts are 70-95 ft-lb per the Chilton Manual
Why not just hand tight loose so all fuild won't fall make a mess?
add a rag on top of the gear when scraping the gasket.
Great tip. Much appreciated.
Is Amsoil better then Royal Purple?
Research published by reputable organizations have demonstrated Amsoil as outperforming Royal Purple.
if when i take my cover off! and if i'm not having issues with my gears , i am not checking for nothing but cleaning the small shavings out with the dirty oil , cleaning matting surface and installing the new cover and gasket fill it and drive! LOL!
Sounds about right. Unless you are having issues, the service is pretty straight forward.
every 2 years?! our Expedition has it for 15 years since it was built it has the 3.55 LSD
My 2001 F150 has 160000 miles and just changed it for the first time and all is well! Like you said,,,every 2 years??? lol
I have a 2003 F150 with 186,000 also never changed it. I'm worried that since I went so long changing it might cause more harm than good. Have you noticed any thing that might be concerning? Thanks for your reply. -Cheers
Same with my '99 f150! 200k miles
Cool.
Thanks for the comment...good luck with your repair.
Boy someone's been snorting too much oil. It's not that Ford likes Amsoil, that's your arrogant opinion. The fact of the matter is Ford uses synthetic gear oil from the factory in their differentials, they have since at least 97. And The owners manual doesn't recommend the fluid b e changed every 30k miles, it recommends it every 100k miles because it has synthetic oil from the get go.
Thanks for the comment. The statement "Ford must like Amsoil" was a joke that I guess you didn't pick up on. Most, if not all manufacturers have switched to synthetic lubricants, in many parts of the vehicle, as they obviously outperform conventional lubricants. As far as the fluid change interval, the owner's manual for a 2001 F150 does not specify a fluid change interval for the differential fluid, however, the Scheduled Maintenance Guide for the 2001 Model Year identifies the rear axle as “lubricated for life” under normal conditions and they are not to be checked or changed unless unusual circumstances are experienced. Unfortunately, according to AAA most motorists do not drive under “normal conditions” and Ford’s suggested recommendation of 150,000 mile (or 100,000 miles as you noted) differential fluid change interval drops to as low as every 30,000 miles depending on the driving conditions. 30,000 miles may be a bit over aggressive for preventative maintenance and I would revise my previous statement in the video to 50,000 miles as you can see from the video the amount of contamination in the existing diff fluid.
you want to let the permatex set up for a few minutes before assembling
my dad has a 2001 f-150 4.6. would it be pretty much the exact same procedure? I know hes NEVER changed the rear diff oil ever and his truck has 125 K I beleave.. Hope to hear from you soon
ok good th. Since the oil is really thick, would you recommend warming it up like put the bottles in a bucket of hot water and let ti sit there of leave the bottle sout in the sun or something?? so that way when it goes thru the pump its a lil smoother flow?
ok just curious. thx again sir. enjoy the rest of your week
Torque specs for bolts and fill plug?
Rear Differential Cover Bolts (2002 and earlier) 28-38 ft lbs, Rear Differential Fill Plug 15-30 ft lbs
I believe is 33 ft/lb torque
Per the Chilton Manual: Rear Differential Fill Plug - 15-30 ft lbs, Rear Differential Cover Bolts for 2002 and earlier models - 28-38 ft lbs, and Rear Differential Cover Bolts for 2003 and later models - 24 ft lbs.
Fill it till it runs out of the fill hole.
Robert Davis that’s what she said.
sTRAGE I WAS TOLD I NEED TO USE FORD anti friction fluid as well
If you are using Amsoil Severe Gear www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-140-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svo/?zo=10458 , it already has an additive package designed for this application.
Five stars ;)
permatex said to use only gear old gasket maker 81182
The tip is much appreciated. I do not know if Permatex 81182 was available when I filmed this 11 years ago.
Why are you changing new fluid?
Existing fluid had an unknown number of miles on it.
@@InsaneOil Looks like about 10 miles.
I did this just for the nice new fluid to leak out the axle seals… it didn’t leak before should of left it alone
You must have cleaned off all the sludge that was keeping the oil from oozing out.
At 8:40-8:49. Didn't see him put the gasket on?
Permatex Ultra Blue was used to make the gasket on the diff cover 8:16
How many quarts?
What vehicle do you have? Year, make, model, engine size?
Jon Olson 97 Ford e150, 4.6
Thanks a ton man, good info!
Dorifto007
Fords
Jon Olson The Haynes manual say to add friction modifier but I don't have a limited slip. should I add it anyway or does it matter?