How Long Can It Last?
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2021
- Mr. Foot Part 2. In this video we make the silicone mold and pour the urethane castings.
Here is a list of suppliers for the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos:
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5v...
Do you have a project to suggest for the channel?
Here’s a .pdf with everything you need to know:
www.dropbox.com/s/pjb0l6fr7zj... 
Хобби
These are by far the most informative videos on moulds on entire RUclips!! Thank you so much for sharing all the tips with us
Thanks!
agree, best mould making videos on YT
You are sooo right about the scale... The digital plastic isn't even close to a good triple beam. You know what you're getting with that.
You deserve more subscribers. I learn a lot from these videos!
what I have learned about subscribers is that if you have 100, you desperately want 1000. Once you have 1000 you’re miserable until you have 5000. I now realize I will not be satisfied until I have a couple hundred million subscribers. 😄
The POV camera view is such a good addition to your videos
I like it a lot; I just have to remember to hold my head still! Now I need to solve the lighting. The lighting tends to be in my face, but for POV shots the lights should be balanced on my shoulders! Is that the next rig I need to build?
@@RobertTolone getting a l little vertigo from the POV bobbling
I appreciate how in every video, whether it is from 2 years ago or 2 weeks ago, you repeat the fundamentals. Jagged cuts for mold interlocking, weighing out your resin, use chunkies to save rubber, sprues and vents being guides for cuts, how to avoid bubbles in the mold, using the witness cup as a test, cleaning up spills/brushes with acetone, and so on.
In this video you mention how the object has super fine details, and how the surface isn't well-designed for molding. I don't do casting (...yet?), my artistic focus is mostly in illustration; in illustration we also don't want to do super fine details-painting every individual hair takes a long time and it tends to look like noise. Instead, hair and fur tends to be painted as larger chunks that imply volume and texture, and based on your comments in the video it is my assumption that this is likely how hair/fur would be designed for casting as well. I suspect there's a lot of shared design concepts between mold making and illustration! (This revelation makes me want to pick up casting as a hobby now...)
Exactly right. Sculptors treat hair as masses - not as individual strands.
This is a honest video, instead of cutting the part of the struggling with the mold, you included it in the video.
We learn more from the mistakes and problems than we do from our successes. Plus, it’s much easier for me to just show the screw ups!
I mean, apart form being super informative, I just love Mr. Tolone's attitude. Great teacher!
Thanks Raphael!
Always a pleasure. Thank you.
That was really great, lots of challenges to overcome and think about again, I bet you were glad to see the back of that Snow Globe mould by recycling it! The final stage when you pull out the cast is always a great moment on these tutorials. Looking forward to the next instalment, thanks.
Genius on the Faux round mold!❤️
Thank you for the effort you put into these videos, sir! I've been 'marathoning' your videos all day! I want to get into molding and casting my sculptures too and I'm learning so much from you! SUBSCRIBED!
Thanks for watching!
Robert you’ve guided me through the beginning process of mold making now I just watch for tips.
I'm not sure why, but my cat watches all of your videos with interest.
Bob, I watched this project again and it came to me that you remind me of a Roulette Wheel caller. Around and around she goes and nobody knows where she falls… in every video you call out, “will the mold be good, I don’t know. Will it be full of bubbles? Will it be a massive fail, if it is, I will be very “sad” will I be “sad”? What do you think?!! Different words but the caller is similar. It’s called the big question full of suspense. A great show stopper. Keep up the good work. Very entertaining.
I’m not a good enough actor to fake it. I genuinely don’t know if the mold or casting will come out OK. I spend a lot of time trying to predict what will happen several steps ahead and reducing variables to try to make the process more reliable. But molding and casting is essentially working blind. You have to be able to predict what will happen because you can’t see it while it’s happening.
Thanks for yet another enlightening video, Robert.
Thanks David!
Great stuff as always
Very well done, came out far better than expected.
Haha, for me too, Paul.
I really love these videos. I've done some simple resin casting, but it's great to watch someone work who knows what they're doing. The whole process is fascinating.
Thanks for watching and commenting John!
Nice mold Mr. Robert !! Thank you !!
Thanks Fernando!
A wealth of knowledge in these two videos. Thank you sir. I'm officially ready to jump into this adventure. Excited new subscriber
Thank you . I'm learning a lot.
I've been watching your videos..we'll just call it a lot.,Learning how you do..what it is you do. I want to thank you for sharing what you've learned and the many things that took you..years...perhaps decades to figure out I bet. I appreciate your level of expertise and I thank you sharing some of it with me. -Arick Lee d'Entremont
fantastic videos, love your work, subbed
Awesome work Robert! I did not expect such a clean cast due to the texture of the sculpt, but your expertise pays off again. Looking forward to next Friday for the finished Mr Foot!
And I don’t mind picking out the rubber bits! 😁
@@fuzzpuppets Haha Larry, glad you don’t mind because there will be bits to pick!
Thank you! Fascinating!
thanks for watching Ilya!
I love this man's confidence. 😎
Haha seeing you pull and struggle with those molds had me so tensed up. I'm like 'Careful! Careful!' Another great video!
Great job!! Tough one.
A beast of a beast!
LOVING THE POV! This is the most unique tutorial video I've seen to date
I'm surprised Adam Savage didn't think of this first.
It’s made my life easier for sure and it’s the obvious camera angle for a maker. I’m surprised everybody doesn’t use it.
I was getting nervous there for a minute! Whew! But you pulled it off as usual!
Glad I'm not the only one who doesn't understand sprues. I'm hoping it all falls into place eventually. Thank you for these lessons.!
Your videos are very well edited.
Thanks!
Love to see your work in casting,. Very careful all things
Thanks for watching my videos!
@@RobertTolone most wc, i'm alway review back your video before starting resin project
Glad I found this incredible channel. Trying my first mold ever tomorrow and this is giving me more confidence than I had but also scaring the pants off me 😄
I’m scared every time Matthew! Good luck, I hope your mold works out great. 👍
@@RobertTolone Thank you. I will be re assessing how I was going to approach the molds today and going through your catalogue for tips. Appreciate the resources!
Love your videos Robert, there is always something new to learn.
Thanks for watching!
Anyone else do crafty stuff while watching? I'm mixing a beeswax, carnuba wax, walnut oil wood turning finish.
Yessss! Always doing something art. I don’t even make molds lol.. but I have thought about this a lot. I couldn’t wrap my head around the tubes of silicone mixed with Dawn dish soap type molds. Seemed like some made out ok but I kept thinking if I’m going make molds, I’ll be trying the right way. Some of what he says does help me with resin art & other things.
Listening/watching Robert is like having an amazing artsy friend sitting in the room with me. So glad you’re having the same experience 👌💯💯
@@debrajol3585 I first made a silicone caulking corn starch mold. But bought some 2 part silicone for a real mold
Eagerly awaited new episode. Learned somthing new about how to fasten the mold halves (my weak spot) - Thank you very much. Yet I wonder why I don´t see you using airvents at some odd places of your molds. I found it very rewarding to "stamp" those vents in at finger tips, elbows and knees of human shaped figurines. You can stamp those vents if in need after the first castings. You can use a brass tube with an sharpend up edge but these are still hard to push through the rubber mold sides and might even bent. I use strynge needles for this which will give you very tiny escape holes for captured air and which will improve the flow inside the mold. Thanks to fashion I am using piering needles (ooh, ooh) of different calibres now. Only takes a minute to push throug the rubber and does do a lot. Cutting a tiny thin escape channel leading upwards on the outside of your mold ensures that the air can escape out of the mold. Hope I made sense -great video anyway looking forward to next friday.
Oh, I’ve never liked cutting vents in molds. Makes me feel like a failure as a vent designer! For me, the goal is always a properly designed mold that fills perfectly without any extra effort.
Great video again! I’m using the same scale, so your not alone. Simple and accurate. The consumer grade digital scales are not consistent, sensitive, or accurate enough to trust while using such expensive rubber and resins.
Always happy to meet another devotee of the Balance Beam Cult!
Totally agree, William Roberts!
Very cool
Ha HA. You have a one-of-a-kind chuckle!
Gday Bob , like the camera angle . Excellent tutorial on hairy complex parts and how the pattern should be deigned for the mould and casting and especially venting . Good to see the end of the snow globe mould. Take care.
The snow globe will rise again! Hopefully this time it will be a mold that actually works!
@@RobertTolone well the experiments failed and the info gained will help . Thicker walls , thinner resin with small exotherm . You back home for good or just a visit ?
@@glenfisher728 Was only there for 5 days.
@@RobertTolone oh well , hope your back home soon enough mate . I was going to pour some quick cure silicone today but it's near 40 Celsius here for the next few days , might have to wait till it cools off a bit in a few days . Take care mate .
The res king
I was selfishly hoping that last vent would not fill to learn how to fix it.
Great video, sir!
I expected it to work as it did. Had the resin not risen up the the vent the most likely cause would have been a piece of vent wax still caught in the mold.
Awesome video, thanks Robert. =)
The cutting of the mold really looked time consuming. ^^
It took way too long for RUclips real-time, but probably not more than 20 actual minutes. It was actually pretty easy to cut because the vents guide the cuts.
I agree with the scale. I find those scales to be great for resin/epoxy. I also prefer them.
👍
The three-beam scale _is_ a digital scale: it's got numbers all over it!
😄
Hi Robert, Good work on the videos. Can you do a video on how you made your vaccum tanks or they might be your hot box. The things in the back ground?
I made this video about the tanks couple of months ago:
ruclips.net/video/VYO318KFuAA/видео.html
hey robert, going through some older vids to brush up on some moldmaking knowledge for a project. I have a question though; I feel like I can NEVER get my 'chunkies' to act right, even gingerly placing them in as delicate as possible. it seriously seems like no mater what I do, they misbehave and brush against my model in some way, causing my final mold to have some large inverse blocks of silicone bits. Is 'bigger better' on those chunks? or should I try granulating them to be smaller?
Hey Nicole, Not sure what you mean by “inverse blocks”. Does that mean you have voids in your mold?
You sure know what your doing.
I have watched several of your videos.
I notice you don't use mold release why?
Can you do a video on the equipment you use like the vacuum chamber and pressure tank? Did you buy them make them? How much pressure and such.
Thanks
I use mold release when I need to. Mostly I use it to prevent silicone from sticking to itself. I don’t like to use mold release when casting resin because then you have to clean it off the casting, especially if you are planning to paint it. I have done videos on my pressure pot and my vacuum chamber. I run the pressure pots at 50 to 80 psi. Here are the links:
Pressure Pot: ruclips.net/video/VYO318KFuAA/видео.html
Vacuum Chamber: ruclips.net/video/ridy1JWFDLM/видео.html
Would spray mold release sprayed into the mold help reduce the damage done to the silicone mold?
Very interesting, that cut cut mold made me a bit nervous though, as you got down to the fingers I afraid it might split. As always you amaze me with your craft, enjoyed the video and keep the scale, what’s going to ware out on it, not nearly anything.
Thanks Vernon, I will definitely keep my scale. And if I live long enough to wear it out I’ll buy another one! 😀
how many pulls would you say you might expect from this mold Robert? Again. another great video!
The mold is already damaged after one casting. So how many castings you get out of it depends on how much detail you are willing to sacrifice. I would guess by the 10th casting a lot of the hair detail will be noticeably missing.
I don't care what anyone says I love your triple beam
Because you are a gentleman, a scholar and a connoisseur of fine mechanical devices.
@@RobertTolone Maybe one of those
New camera angle works good
Yes, I’m pleased with it. Much easier to be working with both hands!
I forgot I was subscribed to this channel , and when I clicked on this video I thought it was something to do with dampness .
Maybe I should change the channel to be about the mold in people’s houses! 😀
@@RobertTolone Well if it's hairy , they definitely need to be informed :)
Would it not be easier to use small wooden/metal wedges and a mallet to break the wood mould casing apart?
Yes, they certainly could be used to do that. I usually only resort to wedges when making very large molds.
Congratulations, that is a perfect cast and a complex mold! I see what you mean with the silicon being chewed by the resin. I am sculpting a cloak for a figure right now, I will keep in mind that I should not make deep narrow runs in the fur texture! I assume that sculpting (for molding and casting) is all about using surface texture to *suggest* these kinds of details, rather than actually have them in the sculpture.
One question though, wouldn't you have made the job a bit simpler by doing two separate molds, one for each hand? I know you would need a bit more silicon, maybe another 1/4" wall. But you would save time doing the mold cut and possible bridging problems with the fingers?
It would have been simpler to mold them separately. But I am always looking for opportunities to demonstrate different ways of doing things. I wanted the viewers to see the possibilities of complex structures in single molds.
Yes, but it adds to the cleanup labor, especially if you are planning to paint the casting. All of the release must be cleaned off.
Your scale is THE SCALE. Datsit.
By the way, excellent videos.
Always a pleasure to meet a connoisseur of fine machinery!
You are always talking about filling bubbles if they appear on castings, but how you do this? You use some epoxy fillers, use urethane resin or just paint it "thicker" and sand later?
Any number of ways depending on the situation. You can use the casting resin, epoxy clay, superglue mixed with resin dust, baking soda or talc. Also automotive body putty, plumbers putty, etc. For large repairs I prefer to use Magic Sculpt or Apoxie Sculpt. For tiny bubbles I like the superglue option. Sometimes a good gap-filling sanding primer is all it takes.
Sometimes the easiest solution is the one one cant think of. i would have never thought of marking with indents in the mold case.
Took me years to figure out that simple trick. Sometimes you can even use a marking pen, and the ink will transfer to the rubber. But you have to experiment with all of the materials: the mold case, the pen and the rubber, to see if that method would work for you.
@Robert Tolone I have a piece of wood I found buried in the ground it has such a cool cave-like shape and deep grain texture I thought this would be an awesome piece in my fish tank! After cleaning it up a bit and hitting it with a heat gun it smelled funny kind of like kerosene or the like.. come to find out it's a chunk of deteriorated railroad tie .. so NOT aquarium safe! So I thought maybe I could make a casting of it that is aquarium safe! It's about 20"L x 6"H x 8"w and since it's porous wood with lots of ridges and detail, do you think if I coated it with beeswax would it keep the rubber from sticking? My biggest concern is whatever petroleum-based chemical used to treat the railroad tie, could it affect the mold? If you were casting this for aquarium use, what kind of resin would you use? Thanks for any info/help!
I can only give you my usual reply, which is test, test, test. Contact Reynolds Advanced Materials and ask them to recommend a material for casting aquarium pieces.
www.reynoldsam.com/application/aquariums-zoos-themed-environments/
I'm glad you are doing this channel and not me. LOL I'd be inclined to "fix" everybody's sculptures for casting. 🙈
I always want to modify the object as little as possible!
i like your old triple beam scale...
You are obviously a man of great intellect and wisdom.
thank you sir
Hey Robert! You have probably answered this before but what shore grade silicon do you use?
Shore 25 on the A scale.
I just recognize that scale as what my dad used to measure his weed with =D
Ain't nothing wrong with the triple beam!
People come to my studio and accuse me of running a crack house!
You know what would be great, completely clear silicone. So you can immediately see if you git any bubbles and also where to cut the mould.
There is clear silicone. It is platinum-based so it is more expensive and finicky to work with.
@@RobertTolone Ah then it is no good, I mean with the same properties the "blue" is which you usually use.
How far into the curing process do you demold so you can clean the casting? I've seen this done before, but I'm not sure how long the resin has to sit before you can trim flashing, etc, while the material is still slightly pliable.
It depends on the demould time of the resin. The fast cast resin Bob uses can be demoulded when it is cool to the touch , it's still a little pliable so it's easier to remove vents and pour plugs. But there is always a variation on this , the thinner and smaller the part the longer it will take to cure due to the lower exothermic reaction , less heat longer demould time . Like Bob days check your witness cup , when that has cured it's time to demould. With all the different types and grades of resin available have a good read on the info and safety data sheets and that should help the most. For example when Bob was away and tried his first casting of the snow globe in resin , the art store resin was much thicker than what he was expecting so it didn't work , I'm sure he swore off camera but he had to laugh about in the end as you do . Sorry I'm not Bob responding but I hope you find this useful.
@@glenfisher728 This is incredibly help, thank you for your thoughtful reply!
@@staceyleighmiller2791 Thank you Glenn for saving me a lot of typing. Your reply was most excellent! And thank you Stacey for watching my videos and commenting.
I had a triple beam balance too! I so wish I had it still.
I last saw it somewhere... lost it somewhere... circa 1981.
And my smartphone sensors are crap too. Altitude always wrong, same as temperature and humidity. Ambient temperatures rock, hot electronics mess readings up.
Rant suspended.... for now!
I’m sorry for your loss. Even after 40 years the pain can persist. You really miss a trusty best friend when they’re gone.
RIP snow globe mold.
Haha, it shall be re-incarnated in a better, more effective form!
How about using talcum powder so the parts might release a bit easier and won't rip out the small hairy sections. Or using some coating on the model before molding it to seal small cravices?
I have never been a fan of using talcum powder on molds. In a very rough mold like this the talc will fill in the crevices and cause an even bigger loss of detail in the final model. Then the casting requires cleaning to remove the talc or other coating. And it’s not going to help very much anyway. The castings will continue to tear away the fine projections of rubber until the mold has lost a significant amount of detail. My point to this exercise was that it is far better to sculpt the model for mold making it if you are planning to make molds from it. The hair could have been designed in such a way that it would cast better and look better in the final model.
@@RobertTolone you should give talcum a try. The trick is to brush it on to make sure its in every corner of the mold and then blow off the excess with compressed air. So its just a very thin layer sticking to the mold. It also helps polyurethane resins to flow into small details. I find it helps a lot and also protects the mold surface in general.
@@wuerfel_schmied I know people who use talc in their mold making and swear by it. I went through a talc phase in my early career and tried many methods to apply the talc and also evaluate the benefits of talc vs the downsides. As soon I had invested in vacuum and pressure equipment I stopped using it and have never needed it since. (Except that it is an ingredient in my sculpting wax) I find that by making sculptures that understand and accommodate the casting process I can reliably make excellent castings without additional steps.
For my RUclips channel I choose projects specifically to highlight problems in molding and casting. Defects in the object’s design create many problems for the mold maker. The projects that I have coming up all have this feature in common; some aspect of the object makes it difficult or impossible to cast.
So, would putting talc on the Bigfoot mold have helped preserve it? Maybe a little, but I doubt it would help very much. The mold detail is tearing out because of mechanical locking. A far better solution would be to sculpt hair that looks a lot better and also casts easily.
All that said, whatever works and gives you good results is the correct thing for you to do.
@@RobertTolone yes absolutly for this it wouldn't make this totally working, but just in case you would want to make like 5 copies or so, it could at least have helped a bit. For sure a nice smooth surface without any interlocking features is the best option to go for. Thanks for the great response. Not many take the time to write up all that.
@@wuerfel_schmied Thanks for the conversation. I really enjoyed it and appreciate that you watch my videos.
does the blue spruce wax melt out of the way inside that chamber box that you put the molds in... is that how it vents the air.
No, you cut it out when you cut the model from the mold.
@@RobertTolone how does the wax actually vent the air, does the air just leak thru the sides of the wax.
@@gladiatormechs5574No, you remove the wax from the rubber mold after the rubber cures. The word tube might be confusing here. Sprue wax is not a hollow tube. It’s a thin rod or wire of wax. It is solid. The tube that is formed is an air tube molded into the rubber. So when you remove the wax rod from the rubber mold it forms a tube that lets the air out of the cavity as the resin flows in.
@@RobertTolone i got it, thank you.. it is wax so it slides out and thats when the air vents out.. i thought it was venting air out during the pouring of the silicone.. thanks again.
i never asked this before,, can you use a real fish to make a mold of? thank you for the tips and info
Yes, you can. There’s a whole world of materials and techniques for casting living (or dead) animals and people.
Hey! What kind of resin do you use?
Urethane resins from www.silpak.com. Mostly Silcast 2 and Fastcast.
Could you make a video of how a scale like that works?
I will include it as part of a video. Truth is it is very simple to use.
@@RobertTolone Thanks! I recall being weighed at the hospital on a scale with a similar mechanism. Some greengrocers had a scale like that as well.
Do you have to worry not to touch the model with chunckies or is it chunkys 🤔
It probably won’t hurt anything if it touches. But you definitely don’t want to break the model or knock off the vents etc.
Everything that is considered old works better anyway. All my grandmas antiques that she still used never broke. Digital anything shouldn't be trusted no matter what it is PLUS it always breaks so you have to buy more garbage.
Hello Robert, when I clicikon your list of suppliers it looks like the link doesn't give us all the info. Maybe the problem is me doing something wrong.
Hi Dan, this not an exhaustive list; just the materials I am most commonly asked about.
Favor ...no tiene traducción al español....
👍👍hot box??
I love your scale, I just wish youd clean it 😂😅
Jamming Chunkage ... that's what she said... :) :)
Have you worked with silicone that’s more flexible
Yes, in this video:
ruclips.net/video/96kPgjU7LFk/видео.html
Why don´t you first put some chuncks in there around the model on the side of the mould and then fill in the rest ?
Because it always traps pockets of air. By pressing the chunks into the rubber you make sure that they are completely coated in rubber.
@@RobertTolone Yeah sure it does but those pockets will be not where your workpiece is but where the mold box is an touches, I don´t mean to put chuncks near the workpiece I mean in the corners of the mold box and so on and then pour. This way your workpiece will still be completely covered but it might be less finicky no ?
How can I send u some stuff so u can help me out n how much
send pics to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
Bulldog clips!!! Binder clip 🙄
We have many things in common with our friends across the pond, language is not one of them 😂 (Oscar Wilde)
😀
How do I send u stuff????
Never mind I found it
Hi Robert! You have 16k subscribers, but only 2k views. You should consider asking us to like, subscribe, and click the bell in every video. Maybe then the RUclips algorithm will recognize that your content is EXCELLENT.
Thanks so much for your comment Brian, I have been experimenting with this issue for a while. All of the RUclips gurus tell us to be sure and ask for subs, etc. so I’m pretty sure it must work - although I have not been able to document any effect on my channel. I have just under 17,000 subscribers and the average view-to-subscriber ratio on RUclips is 14%. That means I should average 2,380 views per video. If you study the past six videos of mine I am averaging 3,816 views per video which is a little better than 22%. Have to admit I spend very little time studying my analytics and all of my time trying to improve my viewer’s experience. I feel like it is the content of the video that dictates the views more than anything else Because some videos get a lot of views and others hardly any. And I can never predict what will happen when I release a video. 😳🤪
@@RobertTolone Your work on the viewer experience shows, I have learned quite a lot though I haven't put much of it into practice. :) Wow, I had no idea the average view to subscriber rate was so low! I had a channel in the early days (2007), and I'm moving toward starting another. I'm more of a generalist (I collect skills). If I develop any insight on building a channel I will pass it on. Thanks again for producing these!
@@IdRatherBeMaking Because of your comment I’m going to start asking for subs and likes again to see if there’s any uptick in my subscriber rate or my views.
Noooo! It's SO annoying that every single video nags the audience that way. Sometimes I have to fast forward through those parts because the person just goes on and on and on about it.
aaaaaa.... that's why the 'P' was backwards!
Breaking the model on removal is what scares me the most about cut molds.
Mold making can be very hard on models. I routinely break my wax models. Sometimes I fix them or at least tack them back together. But for me the end product is the casting and I don’t actually care much about the original sculpture - even though I keep them in my archive.
Just add some gears and some copper and brass to the scale and call it steam punk. 🤣
Haha, this technology vastly pre-dates the age of Steam.
@@RobertTolone yea but these youngins don't know that. 🤫
These cashews are stale and are cutting my mouth.
They’re not too tasty but they are a great source of iron.
Do not put the viewer who use digital scales down it is annoying.
It’s kind of a running joke on my channel. I get so many comment’s about my “antique, old fashioned, archaic” balance beam scale I can’t help pushing back. Whatever scale works for you is fine.
@@RobertTolone don't get me wrong I love watching.
Stop trolling people, and buy yourself some proper scale
I never troll people. You’re just jealous because I’ve got the greatest scale on the planet earth.