Thank you so very much for taking the time to discuss and to demonstrate your model finishing technique. It really does bring out the beauty of the woods and creates a durable model that someone will enjoy for many years to come. I also appreciate your comments about varnish and how it tends to oxidize as it ages. As a musician for many years, I have watched the varnish on many old string instruments change the appearance from what the maker in 1750 originally saw to what it looks like today. As you said, that is the nature of varnish. I have taken to using lacquer for the finish top coats to eliminate the color shift but I will also say that varnish (and in some cases shellac) creates a warm finish and the darkening is a wonderful part of the final product. Again, thank you for this show. What a fantastic creation and finished model.
WOW, what a beautiful model! Thanks so much for explaining your process. You once again taught me a few things and I'm an old dog....Thanks again for all you do. Take care and stay healthy and safe.
Good one Kenny, you never disappoint with the interesting way you do things. Love the way you keep your work shop so clean, you should see mine at times stuff everywhere and a fair bit of dust too. 👓📑👌
I've seen too many accidents due to a messy or disorganized shop and I do my best to keep mine as organized as I can. Keeping it clean can be a challenge but it's worth it. Thanks for tuning in William and for the kind words.
Excellent job Kenny. From my experience I can highly recommend spraying lacquer. It doesn't raise wood grain and brings the beauty of all wood grain w/o any oil applied first. As for HVLP I really like my Fiji sprayer. No need to worry about any water condensation, With lacquer it would be even bigger disaster. Also better quality of lacquers do not yellow with the time.
Ken, thanks for this show. Question about the spraying .. I suppose you have an airtank which can hold a certain quantity of air. Do you drain that tank once in a while also?
I drain the tank after every use. I have a Makita compressor that works well and no matter what compressor you use, compressed air creates condensation in the tank and should be drained to prevent rusting of the tank's interior. Every use it should be drained. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in. If you are interested in the compressor I have, you can find my video of it here. ruclips.net/video/rvdDRr7sSp4/видео.html
Nice video Kenny. Tell me, do you have any issues with the varnish working it’s way into moving joints and welding them together? All of the moving parts in my own models has been the single greatest obstacle to finishing. I don’t really have a good method of applying a finish to bulldozer treads or a wooden chain, or gears, or moving pistons, etc…. I might just have to stick with only danish oil except for large sections where I can mask off the mechanics. Anyway, nice looking truck!
Most of the moving parts Steve can be an issue but with the HVLP sprayer, I find that the coats of varnish are so thin, that they don't really affect the operation of the parts. Some of the parts that might be affected can be moved before the next coat for example a piston that may be stuck, can easily be opened and closed to "break" the thin coating of varnish and prepare it for the next coat. The moving parts require a lighter hand when applying the finish as any excess spray will glue them tight. For things like tracks, I prefer the matt finish of Danish oil as it gives a more realistic look while still providing a good seal on the wood. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your question. Your Big Truck build is still one of my favourites.
My display area for my models is downstairs in my recroom area and unfortunately, it has been overrun with models and no longer houses them all so some have been displaced and are in other rooms. It it basically a large wall with custom made floating shelves that hold the models but I am considering a new type of setup and display. It think it may include buying a new house to have more room. LOL. I love your idea Paul about the "ask Kenny" show and I think I will do that. Look for it coming soon. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you so very much for taking the time to discuss and to demonstrate your model finishing technique. It really does bring out the beauty of the woods and creates a durable model that someone will enjoy for many years to come. I also appreciate your comments about varnish and how it tends to oxidize as it ages. As a musician for many years, I have watched the varnish on many old string instruments change the appearance from what the maker in 1750 originally saw to what it looks like today. As you said, that is the nature of varnish. I have taken to using lacquer for the finish top coats to eliminate the color shift but I will also say that varnish (and in some cases shellac) creates a warm finish and the darkening is a wonderful part of the final product. Again, thank you for this show. What a fantastic creation and finished model.
Thanks for the kind words and for your input on the show. I appreciate you tuning in and chiming in to the conversation.
This is another reason I like Tuesdays. A great how-to show!. What a beautiful finish. Enjoyed, take care!
Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in Michael. It's appreciated.
WOW, what a beautiful model! Thanks so much for explaining your process. You once again taught me a few things and I'm an old dog....Thanks again for all you do. Take care and stay healthy and safe.
Glad that you liked it Earl and that you were able to take something positive away from the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Incredible build, Beautiful finish... You are the Master Mr Ken!
Thanks for the kind words Dennis. I appreciate you tuning in to the show.
Kenny, came out beautiful. A total success. Thanks for showing your process.
Glad that you liked it Paul. Thanks for tuning in.
That's a great setup you've got there.
Thank Mark. It really works for me. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Good one Kenny, you never disappoint with the interesting way you do things. Love the way you keep your work shop so clean, you should see mine at times stuff everywhere and a fair bit of dust too. 👓📑👌
just like mine. lol
I've seen too many accidents due to a messy or disorganized shop and I do my best to keep mine as organized as I can. Keeping it clean can be a challenge but it's worth it. Thanks for tuning in William and for the kind words.
Hi Kenny, as usual top notch stuff.
Glad that you liked it Philip. Thanks for tuning in.
Turned out great Thanks
Thanks Joseph. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent job Kenny. From my experience I can highly recommend spraying lacquer. It doesn't raise wood grain and brings the beauty of all wood grain w/o any oil applied first. As for HVLP I really like my Fiji sprayer. No need to worry about any water condensation, With lacquer it would be even bigger disaster. Also better quality of lacquers do not yellow with the time.
That's some good information Marcelo. Thanks for chiming in with that and for tuning in to the show.
Ken, thanks for this show. Question about the spraying .. I suppose you have an airtank which can hold a certain quantity of air. Do you drain that tank once in a while also?
you always should do that, not just for spraying.
I drain the tank after every use. I have a Makita compressor that works well and no matter what compressor you use, compressed air creates condensation in the tank and should be drained to prevent rusting of the tank's interior. Every use it should be drained. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in. If you are interested in the compressor I have, you can find my video of it here. ruclips.net/video/rvdDRr7sSp4/видео.html
Nice video Kenny. Tell me, do you have any issues with the varnish working it’s way into moving joints and welding them together? All of the moving parts in my own models has been the single greatest obstacle to finishing. I don’t really have a good method of applying a finish to bulldozer treads or a wooden chain, or gears, or moving pistons, etc…. I might just have to stick with only danish oil except for large sections where I can mask off the mechanics. Anyway, nice looking truck!
Most of the moving parts Steve can be an issue but with the HVLP sprayer, I find that the coats of varnish are so thin, that they don't really affect the operation of the parts. Some of the parts that might be affected can be moved before the next coat for example a piston that may be stuck, can easily be opened and closed to "break" the thin coating of varnish and prepare it for the next coat. The moving parts require a lighter hand when applying the finish as any excess spray will glue them tight. For things like tracks, I prefer the matt finish of Danish oil as it gives a more realistic look while still providing a good seal on the wood. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your question. Your Big Truck build is still one of my favourites.
Can I propose a new feature for the show . ASK KENNY. My question is where do you display or store all your model's Paul.
My display area for my models is downstairs in my recroom area and unfortunately, it has been overrun with models and no longer houses them all so some have been displaced and are in other rooms. It it basically a large wall with custom made floating shelves that hold the models but I am considering a new type of setup and display. It think it may include buying a new house to have more room. LOL. I love your idea Paul about the "ask Kenny" show and I think I will do that. Look for it coming soon. Thanks for tuning in.