WOW! This has been the best video hands down that has demystified chip load and how it affects your kbits/material. As a newbie thank you very much for taking the time to explain the basics. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks for the awesome comment. I am glad this helps explain chip load a bit better. I also plan to drop some new videos that go into this deeper very soon.
Thank you so much for that, being super new to CNC and Carveco Maker the feeds and speeds have been very confusing to me and you have helped immensely!
Thank you so much for this. I had to laugh at the end because I did exactly that. Super slow in when I got the machine a few weeks ago, and then learned about Speeds and Feeds and now, I'm certain I'm going too fast. All the while thinking I was finding the limits on my little Bob's CNC I've got here. This video was super informative, so thanks again!
I am glad this one helped and I think once you get this dialed in your machine will cut better than ever. Thanks for the positive comments and the support this feedback really helps.
Wow awesome video As a starter new to CNC I thought feeds and speeds is what I need to understand first, Really liked your presentation over others...I will definitely be following you more often
I appreciate the feedback. I would agree that feeds and speeds is one of the first things to learn but with a little testing its pretty easy to figure out.
This is really good stuff. I have always had issues with down cuts as I can not stop them from screaming. Very aggravating. You should do a video on what bits are best used for what cuts. Like is a straight bit better for roughing.
I'm with the other guys on this one. Your explanations are top notch and can't be repeated by anyone. I'm going to have to rewatch in the area of desktop machines and reducing chipload by a percent but one area I would like to see covered that I am always confused about is what exactly is stepover when it concerns vcarving. I thought the bit is just concerned with reaching the width of the whatever it is your carving. I can calculate how deep it goes as for the width but I still can't figure out what stepover has to do with it. Do you have a video on that? I want to add I have been looking for that info for the past 3 or 4 years. No one covers exactly that topic and why it is different with pocketing.
Thanks for the feedback on this one. Stepover in vcarving only is a factor if you do not use a roughing bit. The roughing bit will carve all the places the vbit would need to stepover unless the roughing bit is too large to fit into those areas then the vbit will stepover to clear that area at the bottom. I will try and make a video about that in the future. Hope this helps.
I love your teaching style. I would love to see a video explaining roughing passes and finishing passes. I have a lot of unnecessary wasted carving time on my finishing pass. Do I change the start depth?
@jimhensley4210 the finish pass should only leave what the roughing pass does not get. If it carves air uncheck the z passes settings or check safe z settings
@@jimhensley4210 safe z is how far the router retracts in between moves. If you do not have any thing that the bit needs to clear on top of the wood like clamps this can be set really low like .05-.1 and it will speed things up.
even tho im just a few mins into the video so far. i feel i must comment for the benifit of other viewers that might wanna dable in CNC - so far everything said is Correct, AND is the exact same for metal cutting CNCs
Thx for the supper positive comments. I actually got started in a metal machine shop machining with traditional machines before the woodworking and is were I picked up a lot of this stuff.
I'd like to add the we need to specify what the term hard and soft wood means. Firstly hard wood and soft wood actually have nothing to do with hardness or density but rather if the seed is in a hard shell like nut, or a fruit. A White pine is a hardwood, yet the wood is soft to cut. Apple wood is a soft wood but cuts like concrete.
Maybe I can add this info to the description area. Hardness is measured by the Janka scale of hardness.The Janka test measures the amount of force required to embed a 0.444" steel ball into the wood to half of its diameter. This test was created by Gabriel Janka in 1906. Hardwood comes from deciduous trees, which shed their leaves annually. Hardwood trees are angiosperms, which produce flowers and fruits that contain seeds. Softwood comes from evergreen trees, which do not shed their leaves. Softwood trees are gymnosperms, which produce cone-like seeds.
Great stuff. Suggestions on best bit to use when cutting birch plywood and to reduce tear out on the side wall of the plywood. Very tricky. I have had best success with downcut overall.
Downcut endmill but maybe try traditional direction instead of climb. I also recommend slightly higher rpms when doing birch plywood just be careful it does not start screaming high pitch sounds which would mean your feed rate is too slow.
I've noticed the marks and fluffyness with compression bits where the edges encounter in the middle , that's why we stopped using them even when everyone recommends them for cutting
Yes that is the downside of compression bits. Have you tried using an O flute? There are some kinds of composite materials that cut better with an O-flute because the flutes are larger than the chips created.
@@Timberfalls The problem with O flute it's the they're either upcut or downcut and very steep, and i can't use either as i need perfect finish on both sides that's why we went to 3 flute straight
Great video, thank you. Is chipload still important when you are using a dust boot and dust extraction? I figured most of the chips are being sucked up by the dust collector therefore reducing heat in the material and the bit. Is that correct? Cheers 👍
No chip load from the bits settings is the main reason for reducing heat and the dust extraction has no impact other than keeping chips from building up in front of the cuter and reducing chip load efficiency.
I have a chipload spreadsheet. I just got done modifying it for tabletop machines with percentages. I can use any percent I want now for it to calculate rpm's and feed for the chipload. Using your example on your website for 25% it comes up with pretty much the same thing (I averaged). But it got me to thinking. Why does this only apply to deeper depths? With the proper router speed rotation, doesn't the normal depth produce the same result? It looks to me like router rpm speed is the main variable here and not necessarily the feed rate. Adjusting the spin of the bit to grab the wood looks the most important to me so making it go deeper, just to get bigger chips, would only apply more stress on the spindle and in my case trim router.
The rpms of the router have a power to rpm ratio so you are trying to adjust to the most powerful part of that powerband with a router because the router is the limiting factor in most hobby cnc machines. On the makita router that is around 17000rpm or between the 2 and 3 on the dial.
@@iwannaapple7190 the chip load charts and calculation is rated as depth of cut is equal to the diameter of the bit. When going deeper than the diameter of the bit you have to lower the chip load by the percentage of depth over this amount.
For hobby CNC's you mentioned to account for different CNC types by reducing chipload figures in the charts given by approximately 25% to 50%. But to obtain these reduced chipload figures, does one also need to reduce the depth of cut by the same percentage? For example, for a 1/4-inch bit, you would normally cut at a depth of half the bit size (1/8-inch) . If one reduces the chipload figure given by the chart by 50%, should the depth of cut also reduce by a further 50% - e.g., go from 1/8 of an inch depth of cut, to 1/16 of an inch depth? Thank you.
The depth of cut should only need to be reduced by half the diameter of the bit. The reduction in chip load chart numbers was just a guideline on how to reduce those numbers to get closer to what many hobby machines will be able to achieve. All of these settings will need a little bit of testing to find the optimal setting
Thank you for your answer. My reasoning was based on the opposite of what you read and need to add as shown at the bottom of the webpage for feeds and speeds. 20-25% - for depth = 2x tool diameter 40-50% - for depth = 3x tool diameter So when reducing chip load, the opposite may apply - to reduce the chipload figures by 25% and 50%, the depth of cut would need to proportionally reduce by 25 or 50% (or at least reduce some amount). But, from your answer, this reasoning seems to be wrong. Thnx
@@peterg902 Yes the reduction for going deeper only works in that direction as more of the bit is being used so it takes longer for the flutes to evacuate the larger chips.
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What a champion video. Many people only explain the industry standard chipload information. Thnx
WOW! This has been the best video hands down that has demystified chip load and how it affects your kbits/material. As a newbie thank you very much for taking the time to explain the basics. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks for the awesome comment. I am glad this helps explain chip load a bit better. I also plan to drop some new videos that go into this deeper very soon.
Thank you for the quick response. I am looking forward to if.
Your ability to explain things never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for this tutorial.....
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!
Thank you so much for that, being super new to CNC and Carveco Maker the feeds and speeds have been very confusing to me and you have helped immensely!
Glad that helped and I really appreciate the positive feedback.
SO MUCH GOOD INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO!! Great job Jason!!
Thanks man I appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this. I had to laugh at the end because I did exactly that. Super slow in when I got the machine a few weeks ago, and then learned about Speeds and Feeds and now, I'm certain I'm going too fast. All the while thinking I was finding the limits on my little Bob's CNC I've got here. This video was super informative, so thanks again!
I am glad this one helped and I think once you get this dialed in your machine will cut better than ever. Thanks for the positive comments and the support this feedback really helps.
Wow awesome video As a starter new to CNC I thought feeds and speeds is what I need to understand first, Really liked your presentation over others...I will definitely be following you more often
I appreciate the feedback. I would agree that feeds and speeds is one of the first things to learn but with a little testing its pretty easy to figure out.
Thank you for amazing in depth explanation !
@rajendergurung7867 I am glad this helped and I appreciate the feedback. These comments help.
This is really good stuff.
I have always had issues with down cuts as I can not stop them from screaming. Very aggravating.
You should do a video on what bits are best used for what cuts. Like is a straight bit better for roughing.
Great suggestion. I have not made a video about that so I will add it to my list of things to do. I appreciate the support.
I'm with the other guys on this one. Your explanations are top notch and can't be repeated by anyone.
I'm going to have to rewatch in the area of desktop machines and reducing chipload by a percent but one area I would like to see covered that I am always confused about is what exactly is stepover when it concerns vcarving. I thought the bit is just concerned with reaching the width of the whatever it is your carving. I can calculate how deep it goes as for the width but I still can't figure out what stepover has to do with it. Do you have a video on that? I want to add I have been looking for that info for the past 3 or 4 years. No one covers exactly that topic and why it is different with pocketing.
Thanks for the feedback on this one. Stepover in vcarving only is a factor if you do not use a roughing bit. The roughing bit will carve all the places the vbit would need to stepover unless the roughing bit is too large to fit into those areas then the vbit will stepover to clear that area at the bottom. I will try and make a video about that in the future. Hope this helps.
I love your teaching style. I would love to see a video explaining roughing passes and finishing passes. I have a lot of unnecessary wasted carving time on my finishing pass. Do I change the start depth?
@jimhensley4210 the finish pass should only leave what the roughing pass does not get. If it carves air uncheck the z passes settings or check safe z settings
@@Timberfalls I have safe Z settings at .25”. Do I drop it lower to accommodate the roughing pass? How far?
@@jimhensley4210 safe z is how far the router retracts in between moves. If you do not have any thing that the bit needs to clear on top of the wood like clamps this can be set really low like .05-.1 and it will speed things up.
Great video!! You have taught me so much with all your videos. I use this software and use Onefinity cnc. Keep up the great info
Thank you for the positive feedback and comments here. They help.
even tho im just a few mins into the video so far. i feel i must comment for the benifit of other viewers that might wanna dable in CNC - so far everything said is Correct, AND is the exact same for metal cutting CNCs
Thx for the supper positive comments. I actually got started in a metal machine shop machining with traditional machines before the woodworking and is were I picked up a lot of this stuff.
I'd like to add the we need to specify what the term hard and soft wood means. Firstly hard wood and soft wood actually have nothing to do with hardness or density but rather if the seed is in a hard shell like nut, or a fruit. A White pine is a hardwood, yet the wood is soft to cut. Apple wood is a soft wood but cuts like concrete.
Maybe I can add this info to the description area. Hardness is measured by the Janka scale of hardness.The Janka test measures the amount of force required to embed a 0.444" steel ball into the wood to half of its diameter. This test was created by Gabriel Janka in 1906. Hardwood comes from deciduous trees, which shed their leaves annually. Hardwood trees are angiosperms, which produce flowers and fruits that contain seeds.
Softwood comes from evergreen trees, which do not shed their leaves. Softwood trees are gymnosperms, which produce cone-like seeds.
Great stuff. Suggestions on best bit to use when cutting birch plywood and to reduce tear out on the side wall of the plywood. Very tricky. I have had best success with downcut overall.
Downcut endmill but maybe try traditional direction instead of climb. I also recommend slightly higher rpms when doing birch plywood just be careful it does not start screaming high pitch sounds which would mean your feed rate is too slow.
@@Timberfalls Thank you. I will try this!
I've noticed the marks and fluffyness with compression bits where the edges encounter in the middle , that's why we stopped using them even when everyone recommends them for cutting
Yes that is the downside of compression bits. Have you tried using an O flute? There are some kinds of composite materials that cut better with an O-flute because the flutes are larger than the chips created.
@@Timberfalls The problem with O flute it's the they're either upcut or downcut and very steep, and i can't use either as i need perfect finish on both sides that's why we went to 3 flute straight
Nice video. So what would running a hobby CNC too slow be for example? How about 120 inches per minute at 17,000 RPM on hard Maple? Too slow?
Its best to pause the job mid cut and see if your bit is hot. If its too hot to touch it needs adjustment.
Great video, thank you. Is chipload still important when you are using a dust boot and dust extraction?
I figured most of the chips are being sucked up by the dust collector therefore reducing heat in the material and the bit. Is that correct?
Cheers 👍
No chip load from the bits settings is the main reason for reducing heat and the dust extraction has no impact other than keeping chips from building up in front of the cuter and reducing chip load efficiency.
I have a chipload spreadsheet. I just got done modifying it for tabletop machines with percentages. I can use any percent I want now for it to calculate rpm's and feed for the chipload. Using your example on your website for 25% it comes up with pretty much the same thing (I averaged). But it got me to thinking. Why does this only apply to deeper depths? With the proper router speed rotation, doesn't the normal depth produce the same result?
It looks to me like router rpm speed is the main variable here and not necessarily the feed rate. Adjusting the spin of the bit to grab the wood looks the most important to me so making it go deeper, just to get bigger chips, would only apply more stress on the spindle and in my case trim router.
The rpms of the router have a power to rpm ratio so you are trying to adjust to the most powerful part of that powerband with a router because the router is the limiting factor in most hobby cnc machines. On the makita router that is around 17000rpm or between the 2 and 3 on the dial.
@@Timberfalls
OK, but why does that have to apply to deeper depths to get the same chipload?
@@iwannaapple7190 the chip load charts and calculation is rated as depth of cut is equal to the diameter of the bit. When going deeper than the diameter of the bit you have to lower the chip load by the percentage of depth over this amount.
For hobby CNC's you mentioned to account for different CNC types by reducing chipload figures in the charts given by approximately 25% to 50%. But to obtain these reduced chipload figures, does one also need to reduce the depth of cut by the same percentage? For example, for a 1/4-inch bit, you would normally cut at a depth of half the bit size (1/8-inch) . If one reduces the chipload figure given by the chart by 50%, should the depth of cut also reduce by a further 50% - e.g., go from 1/8 of an inch depth of cut, to 1/16 of an inch depth? Thank you.
The depth of cut should only need to be reduced by half the diameter of the bit. The reduction in chip load chart numbers was just a guideline on how to reduce those numbers to get closer to what many hobby machines will be able to achieve. All of these settings will need a little bit of testing to find the optimal setting
Thank you for your answer. My reasoning was based on the opposite of what you read and need to add as shown at the bottom of the webpage for feeds and speeds.
20-25% - for depth = 2x tool diameter
40-50% - for depth = 3x tool diameter
So when reducing chip load, the opposite may apply - to reduce the chipload figures by 25% and 50%, the depth of cut would need to proportionally reduce by 25 or 50% (or at least reduce some amount). But, from your answer, this reasoning seems to be wrong. Thnx
@@peterg902 Yes the reduction for going deeper only works in that direction as more of the bit is being used so it takes longer for the flutes to evacuate the larger chips.
Really good info, JR @ trade skillers anonymous (subbed based on quality of info and presentation) Well done!
I appreciate the sub and the kind words. I watch and subbed to your channel too.