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I make a lot of them but there is also a few good websites like thingiverse.com and cults3d.com

Thanks for the awesome comment. I am glad this helps explain chip load a bit better. I also plan to drop some new videos that go into this deeper very soon.

Thank you for the quick response. I am looking forward to if.

@davidpowell1243 Thanks for the positive feedback! I'm glad to know these videos help.

Wow thank you for the super positive feedback. It is good to hear that not just new users are getting something from these videos. I am glad they help.

That is a great point about the measure tool. Thanks for the feedback it really helps.

Its best to pause the job mid cut and see if your bit is hot. If its too hot to touch it needs adjustment.

I really appreciate the feedback! It helps to know these videos are helping.

Thanks for the feedback. I wish i had made this one sooner. I get questions about snapping all the time.

I either use side clamps or use a piece of material larger than my work area.

@@Timberfalls I've always used selected vector with raster. Mainly because in the beginning, when I had no idea what I was doing, I tried spiral in a box and it ended in a horrible war between the bit, router and all the clamps. I've had severe PTSD ever since. I'll have to give it another go soon.

@@lonniec2116 I have made that mistake as well so I think that kind of error is a part of the learning experience. CNC operation has a lot of variables so the learning curve seems steep in the beginning but with a little trial and error it does get much easier in a short period of time. Hopefully my videos will help along the way.

At the end of the control wings is a node. You just grab those and drag them in and out to change it.

Glad this one helped and thanks for the comments they help with the algorithm to keep this content alive.

Thanks I like this design too. Works really well.

@KZ-1155 i am glad these are helping and I appreciate the positive feedback. These messages help keep the content alive thank you.

The rpms of the router have a power to rpm ratio so you are trying to adjust to the most powerful part of that powerband with a router because the router is the limiting factor in most hobby cnc machines. On the makita router that is around 17000rpm or between the 2 and 3 on the dial.

@@Timberfalls OK, but why does that have to apply to deeper depths to get the same chipload?

@@iwannaapple7190 the chip load charts and calculation is rated as depth of cut is equal to the diameter of the bit. When going deeper than the diameter of the bit you have to lower the chip load by the percentage of depth over this amount.

Thanks for the feedback on this one. Stepover in vcarving only is a factor if you do not use a roughing bit. The roughing bit will carve all the places the vbit would need to stepover unless the roughing bit is too large to fit into those areas then the vbit will stepover to clear that area at the bottom. I will try and make a video about that in the future. Hope this helps.

This series was all for just basic maker but I do have videos on maker+ as well. Essentially its the same software with more features unlocked in maker + so its easy if you ever want to upgrade. Be sure to use my discount code TIMBERFALLS at check out for a discount on your subscription. Its only 5% off but every little bit helps. There is also a free 3month trial for maker if you go to their store page and search for carveco for sainsmart and just sign up for it.

Unless you have a tool changer you want to save the toolpaths separately, There is a check box in the save window that will do that.

You have to import it once you start a project by going to relief and import 3d model

@@Timberfalls Thanks for getting back to me, still getting my head around Blender. Keep making those awesome Carveco videos tips, real helpful and thanks for your help. Cheers.

@@overwatch6016 Anytime glad I could help and I appreciate the support here from the positive comments.

I do not have a video per say but the easiest way is to use a vbit and a profile pass to cut along the vector to add the bevel. Similar to the way you might do that traditionally with a hand router but having the cnc do it.

@@Timberfalls kind of what I thought. Do the bevel first, then the cut out? Or can I do it just the v bit?

@@JohnnyTidmore You can do either way first but I often do the bevel first as I seem to get less tear out that way.

@@Timberfalls thanks! You're videos are concise and so helpful.

​@@JohnnyTidmore Thanks! it is satisfying to know these videos are helping others and is what keeps me doing them so I really do appreciate the feedback.

That was one of my first videos so I really appreciate the positive feedback on this one. And thank you for the comments they help keep this content current.

I think that is were you need to use the transform tool to stretch the model to the right side.

The larger the bit the slower your rpms needs to be so the chip loads on these are very low. You should treat any straight flute or bits that do not have a spiral as a single flute bit for the chart.

That is the correct chip load but the makita cannot push the material that hard. The most you are going to get out of the makita is probably around 220ipm so I would adjust down to get closer to that range.

@ good to know. I stayed at around 175 for my 1/4” end mill. I did push it to 200 when I was using a bowl but on the edge cutting to 0.1” depth

the corners of a square that are rounded can only offset the distance the corners are radiused. So if the corner only has a .25 round from center of the corner then it can only offset less than this before the angle of the sides takes over and the corners are no longer radiused. Hopefully that makes sense and does not confuse you further.

Yes, thanks. I will try larger radius and see if it works.

@@DanDavidChinLee-s5h Glad that helps.

Thanks, I appreciate the sub and feedback.

Your bits will last longer once you make the adjustments too. Thank you for watching and glad this helps.

I appreciate the feedback. I would agree that feeds and speeds is one of the first things to learn but with a little testing its pretty easy to figure out.

Thank you my friend for the support. I hope the videos are helping.

Oh It will still be the core of my channel I just plan to add more stuff as well with the other stuff.

No unfortunately it does not. The black fri deal is always the best.

Its a great idea and something I will be adding soon. I noticed once it gets running it is hard to tell if it is flowing or not.

Thanks I already love it. Great upgrade.

Thanks Jim. I agree because after 2 projects I am already in love with the spindle. Not having to shut it off after every project is a dream. It is also super quite and will make it much easier for me to film in there. I plan on doing a lot of videos in the shop moving forward.

Glad this helped.

You just need the base version to do this. If you use my discount code TIMBERFALLS you can get an additional 5% off. Maker + will go on sale black fri and is much cheaper then.

@DavidBeede Yes I made that mispronounced a few times. I have since made another video on this subject to help clear that up. Hope it helps.

@rajendergurung7867 I am glad this helped and I appreciate the feedback. These comments help.

Yes that is the downside of compression bits. Have you tried using an O flute? There are some kinds of composite materials that cut better with an O-flute because the flutes are larger than the chips created.

@@Timberfalls The problem with O flute it's the they're either upcut or downcut and very steep, and i can't use either as i need perfect finish on both sides that's why we went to 3 flute straight

Thank you for the kind response and feedback. I appreciate the support.

That is really more dependent on chip load. The climb and conventional settings are more about the direction of the backpressure coming off the bit and the direction the chips are being compressed. Chip load determines how loaded the bit gets and could be an indicator that your rpms are not high enough or if that is maxed out your feed rate is too fast.

@@Timberfalls But i don't mean the chipload, assume same feedrate and only change climb/conventional for the parameters i've said in the first message, the climb cut will fill/start filling with chips before reaching the side to be cut

@gglovato if you change from climb to conventional, it changes the chip load and has to be adjusted for. Check out this video ruclips.net/video/MhwR6ju1HmQ/видео.htmlsi=ehjAaqDFke27gmiC

@@Timberfalls i did some tests and climb leaves a far worse cut edge(rough with chipped parts) on the melamine for our parameters, with same feedrates at least (i'm still checking your other video)

@@gglovato So if it got worse then your original direction of using climb and downcut endmill will be the best option for that material. As I said in the other comments it is more likely a chip load issue. Perhaps reduce stepover percentages at your current rates to see if that improves.

Downcut endmill but maybe try traditional direction instead of climb. I also recommend slightly higher rpms when doing birch plywood just be careful it does not start screaming high pitch sounds which would mean your feed rate is too slow.

@@Timberfalls Thank you. I will try this!

Yes that method is slow indeed. This works great for doing stacked text too when you want to get that combined vector. Thanks for the feedback it helps.

Thanks for the feedback it is good to hear these help.

Glad this helped and thank you for the comment. These help support the channel.

@@Timberfalls You're welcome and thanks for supporting us Carveco users.