Видео

Thanks, I appreciate the sub and feedback.

Your bits will last longer once you make the adjustments too. Thank you for watching and glad this helps.

I appreciate the feedback. I would agree that feeds and speeds is one of the first things to learn but with a little testing its pretty easy to figure out.

Thanks for the positive feedback. I appreciate the comments on these.

Thank you my friend for the support. I hope the videos are helping.

Oh It will still be the core of my channel I just plan to add more stuff as well with the other stuff.

No unfortunately it does not. The black fri deal is always the best.

Its a great idea and something I will be adding soon. I noticed once it gets running it is hard to tell if it is flowing or not.

Thanks I already love it. Great upgrade.

Thanks Jim. I agree because after 2 projects I am already in love with the spindle. Not having to shut it off after every project is a dream. It is also super quite and will make it much easier for me to film in there. I plan on doing a lot of videos in the shop moving forward.

Glad this helped.

You just need the base version to do this. If you use my discount code TIMBERFALLS you can get an additional 5% off. Maker + will go on sale black fri and is much cheaper then.

@DavidBeede Yes I made that mispronounced a few times. I have since made another video on this subject to help clear that up. Hope it helps.

@rajendergurung7867 I am glad this helped and I appreciate the feedback. These comments help.

Yes that is the downside of compression bits. Have you tried using an O flute? There are some kinds of composite materials that cut better with an O-flute because the flutes are larger than the chips created.

@@Timberfalls The problem with O flute it's the they're either upcut or downcut and very steep, and i can't use either as i need perfect finish on both sides that's why we went to 3 flute straight

Thank you for the kind response and feedback. I appreciate the support.

That is really more dependent on chip load. The climb and conventional settings are more about the direction of the backpressure coming off the bit and the direction the chips are being compressed. Chip load determines how loaded the bit gets and could be an indicator that your rpms are not high enough or if that is maxed out your feed rate is too fast.

@@Timberfalls But i don't mean the chipload, assume same feedrate and only change climb/conventional for the parameters i've said in the first message, the climb cut will fill/start filling with chips before reaching the side to be cut

@gglovato if you change from climb to conventional, it changes the chip load and has to be adjusted for. Check out this video ruclips.net/video/MhwR6ju1HmQ/видео.htmlsi=ehjAaqDFke27gmiC

@@Timberfalls i did some tests and climb leaves a far worse cut edge(rough with chipped parts) on the melamine for our parameters, with same feedrates at least (i'm still checking your other video)

@@gglovato So if it got worse then your original direction of using climb and downcut endmill will be the best option for that material. As I said in the other comments it is more likely a chip load issue. Perhaps reduce stepover percentages at your current rates to see if that improves.

Downcut endmill but maybe try traditional direction instead of climb. I also recommend slightly higher rpms when doing birch plywood just be careful it does not start screaming high pitch sounds which would mean your feed rate is too slow.

@@Timberfalls Thank you. I will try this!

Yes that method is slow indeed. This works great for doing stacked text too when you want to get that combined vector. Thanks for the feedback it helps.

Thanks for the feedback it is good to hear these help.

Glad this helped and thank you for the comment. These help support the channel.

@@Timberfalls You're welcome and thanks for supporting us Carveco users.

Thanks for the catch on the misspoken word. I did mean to say nitride and not the salt.

Some PC's have a function key that activates the f9 key so yes it could be disabled by row or set to function. Hope this helps.

Timberfalls.us@gmail.com

The direction of the details has a lot to do with the colors in the picture. Dark colors gets sent to the back while light colors are brought to the front. Try using a photo editor to adjust the lighting and coloring to get as light of a photo as possible or use something like photoshop to adjust the color of the picture for best results. Hope this helps and thanks for watching my videos.

@@Timberfalls it does thank you

Try the Marigold Depth Estimation on Hugginface it does the same thing as zoe but at a different polarity

Thank you! I use another site for the depth map image. I'm trying to design "carved like" candles 🕯. But it 😢is not working

@jimhensley4210 the finish pass should only leave what the roughing pass does not get. If it carves air uncheck the z passes settings or check safe z settings

@@Timberfalls I have safe Z settings at .25”. Do I drop it lower to accommodate the roughing pass? How far?

@@jimhensley4210 safe z is how far the router retracts in between moves. If you do not have any thing that the bit needs to clear on top of the wood like clamps this can be set really low like .05-.1 and it will speed things up.

If the video is going too fast you can slow these down by changing the playback speed in the video options. Ramping is going to effect all tools listed in the area clearance. Alternatively you could create a second area clearance toolpath with the second bit and do not include ramping to fix that. Hope this helps.

I'm glad this video helps, and I appreciate the positive response. Make sure and check out the other videos in this series

On the second tab of the transform tool there is a place to add a flush which is material to the bottom of the model.

@@Timberfalls ok, Will try, and let you know if it works. Thx🙏

I would put a vector around the model where I wanted to cut it off and use the zero outside of vector tool. Then to add this to a box I would create the box or import it first then import the relief back in and merge it with the box using the add and merge tools in carveco.

I am making a video about doing that very thing today so it is very interesting that you would ask this question. I should have it out later this evening or in the morning and I will show how to do that.

@@Timberfalls great news, how can I find it , will I get a notification?

@@Chris-vc1dh Yes I will message you here when I post it. I just need to do a little editing.

@@Timberfalls thanks

@@Chris-vc1dh check it out ruclips.net/video/jp-VFF3J9s8/видео.html

I am glad this one helped and I think once you get this dialed in your machine will cut better than ever. Thanks for the positive comments and the support this feedback really helps.

Thanks for the Love and I appreciate your support as we are glad to have you as a part of our Timberfalls community.

I always appreciate the support with these positive comments. Thank you.

I do not have a video for aluminum specifically but I have cut aluminum before. The only difference would be chip load and feed rates depending on your machine and spindle setup.

This video was done in maker but I have both versions.

Oh glad that helped. Appreciate the feedback!

Welcome to my channel and thank you for the positive comments. This really helps and I appreciate the support.

@stevenwolk460 no I never had any issues with plugs with the machine. Only the USB cords have gone bad.

@@Timberfalls ah. Tons of people are. Support found issues with my connections and noted they were failing. Said they needed to send new connections and then never did. They wound up just hiding the issue. The end result is it forces a lot of people to switch out connections themself and sacrifice their warranty, ultimately saving Onefinity money in two ways. It’s been explained to me that the connections they use aren’t even close to industry standard. It’s ruined a few hundred in wood over here. Same in bits.

@@stevenwolk460 This is the first time I have heard this about connections. Most people complain about the controller having missed steps which I did have issues with and fixed with ferrite rings but not heard about the connections issue you have had. I use this machine every day for about 6hrs a day in production and none of the wires or connections have failed in the last 3 years although I may just be lucky there.

@@Timberfalls it’s terrible for me. Connections are failing left and right and onefinity support is the one that told me this. They then refused to honor the warranty and send new ones. I’m having random X, Y, and Z issues usually associated with EMI and can’t have a vac anywhere near the machine so dust collection is out. I just wish Onefinity would honor the warranty and help make my machine function. I can’t even use the home function even after support identified an issue and fixed it there. It only worked for 2 homes and now my entire machine is next to useless. I also used this for many hours a day professionally but I’ve lost major income as a result of this. Onefinity is very unreliable.

@@stevenwolk460 That sucks you have those issues. The EMI thing I also experienced but learned it can be solved with ferrite ring cores added to the wiring. These are fairly cheap and I added these to all my wires and also added a ground wire running to a ground in my shop and it has not missed a step due to EMI in over 2 years. amzn.to/3MUl9JI

I am glad these are helping. Thanks for the comments here these help support the channel.

That is strange. Maybe uninstall it and reinstall it.

Will do and thank you for the support!

@michaellevine6019 Thanks for the positive message. I really appreciate your support.

depth of cut is normally rated at the same diameter as the bit but with hobby style machines it is recommended that you use half the diameter of the bit to reduce chip load pressures.