Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
How to bleed brakes using the " One person " method
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2011
- One person brake bleeding method used to purge air from brake lines.
I use the same method in this video where we replace a brake caliper : • How to replace a brake...
Thank you kindly for sharing this method, I just replaced all my discs pads and callipers and had no one on hand to pump the pedal for me while i bled the brakes. Happy my daughter is safe.
Good work Scotty !
Yep this is the same method I'm going to have to do soon because my kids will be out the house and it's only me. My wife will not come out and pump brakes LOL
Great video. I just wanted to add that if you place the hose and bottle above the bleeder valve any air coming out of the line will head directly to the bottle and reduce the chance of air going back into the cars brake line. Can also save some brake fluid.
I have used this bleed method several times.
One key thing to improve, is to place the brake fluid bottle, with tube from bleed nipple, above not below the Calipers.
This way air bubbles simply rise, as per simple science, working for you.
The cable tie is an excellent idea here!
This is the same way I have bleed my lines for 30 years . Simple and easy as in do not have to ask the wife to help . Nice video and thank you for showing the young ones how to do it .
great video, very well explained. I did all 4 in order. I'm a chic and I did it all by myself. I'm proud of myself and thank you for your help.
naaaaahhhhhh everybody knows women don't use the internet
That's Hot and Cool!!
You saved yourself a lot of money.
Go Buckeyes!
Thank you very much for making this video. I have been bleeding brakes on my vehicles for many years but, not by this method that you have demonstrated. It's a lot easier doing it your way than the way I have been doing it by myself. I was having a lot of problems getting the air out of the lines because the master cylinder was defective. I bought a new one and still had problems. I finally figured out that the new master cylinder was no good either. I kept thinking there must be a blockage in the line somewhere. I also bought a brake booster and that didn't help either. So I bought another master cylinder and finally got the brakes working. It never entered my mind that one of the new master cylinders would be bad right off the bat. Took a few days for me to finally solve the problem. Your video helped a lot even after I installed the new parts twice. Thanks again.
i bet that tested your patience!
Thank you for showing me, to do bleeding brake fluid by myself, it's a great idea 💡
it's like going back to school and learning new stuff when you're young but as you get older you do kind of forget how to do things preciate it
+Lee Dawson I hear ya Lee - and thanks for commenting
You have no idea how much money your going to help people save with just thi one video. Thank you!
I just did something similar but I ran a tube into a bottle about an inch and turned the bottle upside down and placed it above the level of the caliper. My thinking was that bubbles like to rise and I would waste a lot less brake fluid as any fluid pushed into the bottle can then gravity feed back into the caliper. Seemed to work great and only lost about 1/3rd of a cup of fluid from bleeding two new calipers. You sir, get a like!
Great idea!
Thanks for the zip tie idea!
Good video! Checked out several, and this is the only onw that pointed out the fact that the pipe should be below the level of thw brake fluid in the bottle. Also, the grease/zip tie idea is great for keeping that air from getting back in the lines 👍
Doesnt the grease and zip tie idea kind of defeat it’s on purpose if fluid is coming from the bleeder screw when you unscrew it? The fluid comes out, then air has to come out correct?
Great video. I enjoyed the Canadian pace, didn't have to pause once.
Thanks Jerry - glad you like it
Jerry Sollien, he didn't do it in one take. He edited his video, you probably thought it was one take due to the 60fps.
DOOD! YOU INSPIRED ME AND SAVED MY LIFE TODAY !
the simplicity of a vacuum with a lil bit of juice was just logic and simple....
i wasted 3 hour yesterday with nothing
today took me ...15minute the longest was unscrewing and screwing on the god dam wheel roflmao!
i luved this tutorial simply awsome
Thumb up
+twisty Glad to hear it Twisty !
He's not kidding about having a lot of fluid handy. Because you have to guess how many pumps you need, you'll often end up pumping out more fluid than needed. I usually end up going through 1.5 of the 32oz bottles. The body armor or big gatorades make great bleeder bottles.
thank you. im taking back this $50. bleeder kit right now
The first video I've watched and I dont need to search any further. The cable tie and vent hole are great tips. Cheers from the Uk.
This worked like a charm. So easy to do even for a non-mechanical type like myself. I bought a kit at my local auto parts store for $ 11.00. Pretty expensive plastic tubing and a jar but I saved quite a bit of $$ not paying someone else to do it for me. :-) and I have the kit for future use.
Thanks for the idea with the bottle! I drilled a hole for my tube in the lid of a plastic Folgers jar along with a vent hole and bled my brakes this morning. Worked perfectly!
Thanks MrEra . It's saved me a lot of grief over the years when i didn't have someone to pump the brakes.
I buy one of these manuals for any vehicle I've ever owned Fernandez. I find they are almost exactly the same. The only problem I have with them is that sometimes they advise removing parts that aren't really necessary to take off. I changed a hub & bearing in a Sunfire recently; the manual advised disconnecting the stabilizer link and the lower control arm which didn't have to be done. Other than that, I find they are great.
In place of the grease I use Teflon tape on the threads and a 1-way valve to keep air and old fluid from getting sucked back in. Also helps prevent corrosion for future servicing. I have a lot of repeat customers so I use that tape on every brake job whether I'm doing a flush or not. Much cheaper than having to use heat later on.
Use a hose with 3/16" inside diameter. It will fit snugly on the nipple and seal nicely. Also, keep the hose above the bleeder valve. This will keep air from getting in through the valve. Your idea is good but I modified it by using 12" of hose and kept 8" of it full of brake fluid and above the bleeder valve. Worked like a charm.
should the bottle also be above the valve? or just a portion of the hose?
What you don't want is for air bubbles to make it bake to the bleeder valve. I think I had the mouth of the bottle above the valve. The hose should be enough though.
god hates you yes you should the video shows that
im going to try this method,i live in the sticks and its difficult to get someone to help here.Great idea with the vented bottle!
That's what i like about the method to William - you don't have to find a foot to pump the pedal for you !
backyardmech NJ I UI bumi by
me too
Great vid... brake bleeding the old fashioned way...have not done for a few years and this is a great reminder, old school method and additional tips. This is what I am up to tomorrow provided I can release the brake valves...all good fun. Thanks very much backyardmech....some good comments here too!
I've used this method for years, with one exception. I use an old mayonnaise jar to insert the tubing into. You can actually hear the air bubbles being expelled. The key is that when you release the brake pedal, it sucks fluid in from the jar, not air. I buy brake fluid by the gallon, so I have enough on hand to completely flush the system, killing two birds with one stone; bleeding the brakes and replacing that brown, icky fluid with clean fluid.
thanks bro. you saved my pocket tonight. im rebuilding the calipers in my k20 suburban and i was going to pay someone to press the brake while im bleeding.
This works good , I taken the bleeder screws off and put Teflon tape on the screw threads this stopped the air getting back in .
I wouldn't put teflon tape on anything brake related. Any small impurity in the system can stop a caliper from moving freely.
A little grease on the threads is idea since if it enters the brake fluid, it will just dissolve.
Excellent idea Sereno - I use a thick grease but I'm always concerned it might get sucked back in the brake line. I'll try the Teflon tape next time - that would give a better seal.
Just used this method to bleed my brakes after replacing a wheel cylinder. Thanks so much for the video! Worked like a charm!
i did it with a Starbucks cup and a tube worked like a CHARM. my breaks had so much air in them before i couldn't even drive, because the peddle went to the floor before stopping. was super effective and fast. thank you!!!
Good point - I used to change the brake pads and only grease the slider pins if they seemed to be sticking. I grease them every time now - only takes a little time at that point in the job.
Excellent post, thank you very much. I especially appreciate the recommendation to use a zip tie on the hose.
thanks for commenting and glad it helped Fontana.
If the bleeder hadn't broke flush, I'd advise filing the edges of it flat and trying a set of vice grips on it Jakes. If there is nothing to put the vice grips on, you may have to end up replacing the caliper; I have when the bleeder valve is totally seized. Another option is a "grabit" type reversing bit - but getting iron filings in the caliper is a concern there.
Great video Precise, informative, I thank you for taking the time to educated others. You are a Patriot
You're welcome Jarmar - can't beat the price using this method .
Also you need to read the cap on the reservoir to see what dot you put in
Glad it worked for you Excdo - and you're right; i never let my kids throw those old sleds away when they're no good for sledding anymore.
Nicely explained without fuss or flash. Good instruction.
Thanks Martin
Helped get my Bug through inspection and back on the road. Inspector said they were the best stock beetle brakes he'd tested in a long time. So there ya go folks, the method works!
I love the way these guys say "process".
Agreed Eclipser. I use it on everything too.Many times i do a job and thank myself for putting ant-seize on parts the last time they were installed. It's the 3rd best invention of all time - after duct tape and tie-wraps !
between pumping the pedals, keep topping off the master cylinder reservoir so not to go empty and suck in a huge amount of air.
fantastic video! i spent $190 to get a rear (side) passenger side brake line replaced on my ranger! never again! (enless things get too complicated) thank you!
You wont have air problems reentering if you keep the bottle and hose above the bleeder screw and fully depress the pedal 3 to 4 times
Great video really helped I didn't have the right sized tubing so I heated up a screwdriver and pushed it in worked super well took me under a minute for each brake
brilliant took just fifteen minutes to fix my Zafira 1.6, thanks for the video
If you elevated the bottle above the bleeder valve then the air bubbles would float up and there would be less chance of them getting sucked back into the system. The rest of your technic is perfect and will work for bleeding or changing the fluid all together. Good job.
This works much better than the vacuum method, my brakes are now firm and reliable.
It's a good thing the vacuum pump didn't cost me.
This is exactly how we do it in the workshop we leave the master cylinder cap off and check fluid level every 12 pumps once there is a clean line of fluid with no air bubbles in line tighten the sucker up.
Your welcome Opsvideo; after many frustrating attempts over the years to get air locked in brake lines out - this method has been pretty much fool proof.
Have you ever heard of speed bleeders? They're basically one way bleed valves. They make this procedure even simpler.
the way i did it, was turn the car to the "on" position, so you can turn the wheel, but do not start engine. put a towel around power steering fluid. turn the wheel hard left to hard right a few times with the PS cap off. it should "burp" the system. I have an 01 taurus, used to make that high pitched type scream when I was turning the wheel, since this method i have no problems with steering.
holly rust batman.. the ziptie on the hose is a good idea. its a good idea to put some brake fluid on the threads of the bleed screw, air will sometimes go past the threads when you let the pedal off.
You're welcome Atomix. This method can save neighbors everywhere a lot of time :)
That's a good idea - minimizes the possibility of air getting into the brake lines on brake release Sopocha.
As you pump the brake pedal, air in the brake line becomes more compressed. Then that air is forced through the brake line (because you keep adding brake fluid to the master cylinder) until eventually being forced into the bottle Steve.
I like your idea of using a plastic zip tie to keep the plastic tubing air-tight to the bleeder screw and the grease too. All too often the bleeder screw will be seized and snap off. A good trick to prevent that from happening is to find a drill bit of just the right size to fit inside the bleeder screw, shank side (smooth) of drill bit inside the bleeder screw. This helps while trying to loosen the screw and keeps it from shearing off.
Thanks Hortond - good point about elevating the bottle.
I use teflon tape on the bleeder screw. It seals the threads while bleeding and also prevents the screw from rusting next time it needs servicing.
It works for any vehicle as far as i know Quake; and i've done it successfully to a lot of different makes and models.
Thanks Zorokakashi - nothing better than a free tool that actually works !
You got it Chad - Nova Scotia on the East coast - and thanks for commenting.
Oh! Yeah! Make sure you got that "Tie Rod End" off of there!
Gives you easier access to the nipple :-)
You are absolutely right, rebuilt ones aren't much cheaper and are plain unreliable. Glad you got it sorted out, very dangerous to have crap calipers.
check the colour differences between old and new fluids! that old stuff really was due a change! good guide.ill try this method rather than my one pump, hold pedal with long piece of wood, tighten nipple up, release pedal, undo nipple, pump pedal method.....way too much running around the car......
+fatwalletboy2 That was my technique growing up too FatWallet - I think you'll find this method a lot quicker !
That`s the technique I`m using for bleeding the brakes myself.One extra procedure I`m doing is putting a long piece of wood between the brake pedal and the seat every time I finish pumping the pedal so that I`m extra certain no air gets into the system when I release the pedal....grease is grease and you don`t want to end up with grease in the system
No problem Darren -thanks for commenting.
You could also connect the pipe from the bleeder right into the reservoir. It takes 15 seconds to bleed the system.
so i understand you, your saying run the pipe into the brake reservoir?
haha i love when your done, ''thats it now il just remove my tie-rod end and thats it..'' knew what you ment remove tie wrap end lol but the tie rod end is always important during brake job lol nice video!!
Oh crap! You mean I didn't have to remove my tie rods?
Thanks for the vid. You saved me A LOT of trouble.
Great tips using the zap strap and a little grease on the bleeder!
hey , that clear pipe is really called tubing ~ what a maroon
Nice video. I always started my car or truck when I bled them. I will have my car off when I rebleed them today. My cars fluid is dark and well bad. I need to change all the fluid out of it. Thank you.
Great video. nice idea with the tube and bottle...
Thanks for the feedback and Merry Xmas to you too Fin .
make a video where u fix squeaky brake pedal
That was a 1998 Honda Odyssey Cartoon. And i will generally clean the bottle or use a new one each time i'm bleeding brakes; then pour the brake fluid back in its original container when i'm finished. No sense in wasting the fluid if it hasn't gotten dirty.
Those Honda vans are tough Cartoon; i have over 350,000 Km's on mine. Keep making videos !
I've been watching your videos on brake repair and have learned a lot. From a mechanics point of view, I'd like to ask your opinion of left foot applying and pumping the brakes after doing any kind of repair or even everyday driving. Your videos are great!!!!
@ah77ed If you think you may have air in more than 1 brake line then yes. What I usually do is bleed the line at the wheel i was working at . Then I'll pump the brake a few times. It feels soft, then I'll bleed the other lines.
thanx backyard! im in a wheelchair and this will help out a bunch!!
I just did this for my breaks and my clutch. Works fine and it's a cheap device that you can make in a minute out of crap you probably have laying around.
Try to keep the anti-seize on the upper part of the bleeder Elpuelco - away from the fluid. The anti-seize is just to give an extra level seal so air doesn't get sucked in the line. You don't want it getting mixed in the fluid.
You definately have to bleed the brake that you replaced the line at E1. If the fluid level in the master cylinder drops below the 'minimum' level when you are bleeding that brake , you'll have to bleed all 4 brakes. So keep adding fluid as you bleed to keep the level above minimum.
@alessare Leave it open Alessure, check it regularly and add fluid so it doesn't go below the minimum level, and when you are finished bleeding, put the lid back on.
Thanks a lot for that wonderful idea backyardmech... Now I don't need to disturb my neighbor just to pump the brakes for me... :))
Thanks again! I too have a 99 Odyssey which which I've made some videos about.. I seem to always end up with the first year of a body style (always 2nd hand and not from the showroom floor). I've got a '92 civic and a 94 and 98 Accord, as well.
Glad it helped & thanks for commenting Matt
Glad you liked the video Joseph.
Thanks for the video. Very complete. I like your innovations with the tie wrap and grease. It's the sort of thing I wish I had thought of years ago.
great! thank you for explaining this. great trick with fluid in bottle first. i was running around for a stop valve.
I got it at Canadian Tire Matrix - i think it was around $5 for about 8 feet of it. If you are in the U.S. you should be able to get it at Napa , Carquest, any after market car parts store.
I like your videos. I came across them as I was researching stuck or dragging brakes. I may be wrong but you sound like you’re from PEI.
yes im in the U.S thanks for the reply they got them at lowes not sure if u have one of those there
Glad you liked it Vteccc - and you're welcome from Canada !
Generally I just put it around the grease fitting Fargo; but if i've had the bleeder all the way out i'll put ant-seize compound on the threads - it's thicker than grease and should keep air from being sucked back in during brake release.
This is the best video on bleeding brakes that ive seen. I just replaced my calipers and a ton of air got into my lines. Thanks for the video man! Saved my ass since i dont have someone to do a two man bleed job. hah
You're welcome and thanks for the comment Jl.
Don't bleed until the master cylinder is empty Antoniao - you may end up with so much air in the brake lines it will be hard to get it all out. Do this procedure at each wheel individually but keep topping up the fluid so that it doesn't go below the 'minimum level in the master cylinder'. You will eventually see that the brake fluid coming out at the bleeder valve is the same colour and cleanliness of what you're putting in the master cylinder - you're finished at that wheel.
@XGCScrappy Whatever the thickest grease is that I have at the time Scrappy - usually bearing grease. I figure if it's too thin a grease, it may not seal and keep air from getting sucked back in the brake line when the brake pedal is released.