Excellent ▪Very clean, simple and easy to follow along▪ no music☑ no crazy camera angels☑ no fancy editing☑no bells and whistles☑ no cutesy pop ups☑ 10/10
Hi. Saw the installation of this turn signal indicator on Paul Shinn’s 31 Ford Model A. Wanted to see how you so beautifully restored it. Pretty cool. Thanks for creating and posting the video…
My father had a 2 ton Chevrolet back in the late 50's that had a very similar switch on it. It came from the factory with just a single tail light. He installed proper lights, himself; and the switch he used was almost exactly like that one. Pretty cool seeing one after all these years.
Now that's way Cool, I had never seen one taken apart like that. Makes you stop and think about all the little parts that goes into making all these contraptions. Lol !! 😀 Thank you for sharing your passion with us. To you an yours have a safe an wonderful Blessed Merry Christmas
What a emaculant restoration on the turn signal it is go to look awesome on the car it will be going on. Thank you for another great video. Love your channel and content. ❤🇨🇦
Absolutely excellent job. I did notice that you neglected to insert the insulating paper under the PC board though. Gonna rush over to Paul's channel to see it in action... Amazing work.
Excellent work. Love the way you used your laser to recreate the name plate. I have the same Signal Stat that I have been wanting to add to my Model A. Would you be interested in making me one and selling it to me? Very nice work
I want to know where to find someone with the Cloudray Fiber Laser machine in case I need something like this created. That is so cool for reproducing tags that are not really restorable. Nice work on this restoration. I really like the fact there is no nonsense music or constant, meaningless filler talk. Thank you.
I prefer drill press because the hands can be a little shaky. Nothing wrong with what You are doing and or trying to accomplish! I'm a manufacturing engineer so perfection is something that I try to always do. You are very good but more equipment to make it easier would help and I do know that it is all about money. Please don't take this comment wrong!!! Have a blessed day! Tony
Hey, Joe! Your drill bit needs sharpening. Oh, PLEASE! There is a product called, Rodico, that you can purchase online. I use it after learning that watchmakers use it to keep small parts from flying into the Cosmos! You could probably get away with using Playdough, too.
Awesome! One question: what do you think would be the best way to stabilize a hollow letter made of thin metal (you know, the sort of letters used for cardinal directions in weathercocks, like W - west, S - south etc). This metal has holes and slits in some parts, and can break easily if I squeeze the letter a bit harder. I was thinking of pouring some epoxy inside, let it harden and then add some car epoxy filler to fill the remaining caverns, so I can sand and paint the whole thing afterwards. The only drawback is that epoxy is quite runny and I don't know how to prevent it from pouring back through these small holes and slits.What do you think? Is there a better way? Thank you!
@@joe_diy For some reason my reply desappears again and again )) So once again: I've got an old weathercock - you know, a figure of a cock that rotates because of the wind, and a cross with letters that show north, sough, east, west. The letters are made of thin tin metal and hollow (empty inside), and they are quite rusty and fragile. Also they have some holes and cracks along the edges. I wanted to squeeze/pour something like epoxy inside those letters to make them sturdy and kinda solid, so afrerwards I could put some metal filler on them, sand and paint them, drill some holes and fix them back on the weathercock. What do you think would be the best way to fix the letters? I understand the epoxy might not be the best option. Thank you very much!
@@vsemprivet Sounds like you mainly need it sturdier for the restoration. You might be able to use sand casting mold sand and do a side at a time. Pack in sand on the cavity and use it as a temporary filling. Then flip and repeat
So was the plate just painted (stainless) steel and the laser burns off the paint and cuts the holes? How much did that thing set you back? Also that was awesome!
Coated aluminum. And yup, for this application I just burned off the black coating. The machine can do a lot more though. They run about 3k. Worth every penny
Came here from paul shinn nice work Have to ask though, why does every restoration channel copy @mymechanics video style? Is it so hard to come up with an creative style?
Just so you know... That's not heat shrink tubing you're using there, it's nylon expandable sock. Heating it does nothing but melt it and make it less flexible. You should only apply heat to the cut ends to melt the fibres together to stop it fraying. Oh and your drill bit is worn out!
Thank you for your reply back to me, I spent a large amount of time yesterday looking for that exact turn signal without any luck. Looking forward to more of your videos!
Вот если бы ещё пояснение на русском языке.... А пока мы не знаем, что это такое, вот если бы мы знали что это такое, то было бы очень интересно что это такое.
Fine work, Joe!! It looks right at home in the 1931 Ford, and it works great. Thank you!!
Excellent ▪Very clean, simple and easy to follow along▪
no music☑ no crazy camera angels☑ no fancy editing☑no bells and whistles☑ no cutesy pop ups☑ 10/10
*_Better and much more beautiful than new!! Good job_*
It’s amazing to think that some cars didn’t originally come with turn signals!!!
Awesome job!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️❤️
Very different time!
Hi. Saw the installation of this turn signal indicator on Paul Shinn’s 31 Ford Model A. Wanted to see how you so beautifully restored it. Pretty cool. Thanks for creating and posting the video…
Very interesting - Thanks for sharing your process with us. 👍
Been ages since i've seen one of these. Neat.
The hammered look was genius.
This is amazing and now I'd love one for my Model A! Thanks for sharing!
Amazing! That Lazer is killer!
My father had a 2 ton Chevrolet back in the late 50's that had a very similar switch on it. It came from the factory with just a single tail light. He installed proper lights, himself; and the switch he used was almost exactly like that one. Pretty cool seeing one after all these years.
Good for another 80 years.
I think I need to get a laser. It's fantastic to see something restored that's going to get some use instead of sitting on a shelf.
Learning to drive grandpa’s 46 Ford dump in the 50’s. This was on it.
Wow! Fantastic restoration, Joe!
Thanks! Got the plate, much appreciated
Thanks Matt! Hope you like it!
Great video I never seen them in awhile I haven't been getting notifications missed them. Thank you. Awesome work also.
Now that's way Cool, I had never seen one taken apart like that. Makes you stop and think about all the little parts that goes into making all these contraptions. Lol !! 😀 Thank you for sharing your passion with us. To you an yours have a safe an wonderful Blessed Merry Christmas
To you as well!
Here from Paul Shinn's video, nice work :D
Thanks! And welcome to the channel!
What a emaculant restoration on the turn signal it is go to look awesome on the car it will be going on. Thank you for another great video. Love your channel and content. ❤🇨🇦
Thanks!
Wow! thanks Matt!
I have one just like that hanging on the wall in the garage!
Absolutely excellent job. I did notice that you neglected to insert the insulating paper under the PC board though. Gonna rush over to Paul's channel to see it in action... Amazing work.
Thanks! I was waiting for someone to notice. I ended up taking it apart and putting it back in off camera
beautiful job; well done.
Two words: Paul Shinn sent...me. Okay, that's more that 2, but taking into account inflation I'm counting it as two.
I'll allow it!
Excellent work. Love the way you used your laser to recreate the name plate. I have the same Signal Stat that I have been wanting to add to my Model A. Would you be interested in making me one and selling it to me? Very nice work
The plate? Shoot me an email. Joediyofficial@gmail.com
I want to know where to find someone with the Cloudray Fiber Laser machine in case I need something like this created. That is so cool for reproducing tags that are not really restorable. Nice work on this restoration. I really like the fact there is no nonsense music or constant, meaningless filler talk. Thank you.
nice restoratio job !
Well done.👍
Great looking restoration!!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up for the support of your channel
Sir I’m interested in the tool you use for the rivits and the rivits too .. where can I get one ?
Nicely done! :)
I enjoyed this video but would have liked to see it work before you mailed it out. Nice work.
In the video description, there's a video link with it working.
Seeing this exact unit work is just a click away!
I prefer drill press because the hands can be a little shaky. Nothing wrong with what You are doing and or trying to accomplish! I'm a manufacturing engineer so perfection is something that I try to always do.
You are very good but more equipment to make it easier would help and I do know that it is all about money.
Please don't take this comment wrong!!!
Have a blessed day!
Tony
Where did you get the new green plastic lenses?
Parabéns pela restauração top, mas fiquei sem saber qual a utilidade desse equipamento 😕
Hey, Joe! Your drill bit needs sharpening. Oh, PLEASE! There is a product called, Rodico, that you can purchase online. I use it after learning that watchmakers use it to keep small parts from flying into the Cosmos! You could probably get away with using Playdough, too.
I'll have to check that out. I'm forever losing parts
Awesome! One question: what do you think would be the best way to stabilize a hollow letter made of thin metal (you know, the sort of letters used for cardinal directions in weathercocks, like W - west, S - south etc). This metal has holes and slits in some parts, and can break easily if I squeeze the letter a bit harder. I was thinking of pouring some epoxy inside, let it harden and then add some car epoxy filler to fill the remaining caverns, so I can sand and paint the whole thing afterwards. The only drawback is that epoxy is quite runny and I don't know how to prevent it from pouring back through these small holes and slits.What do you think? Is there a better way? Thank you!
Thanks! What's the purpose of stabilizing?
@@joe_diy For some reason my reply desappears again and again )) So once again: I've got an old weathercock - you know, a figure of a cock that rotates because of the wind, and a cross with letters that show north, sough, east, west. The letters are made of thin tin metal and hollow (empty inside), and they are quite rusty and fragile. Also they have some holes and cracks along the edges. I wanted to squeeze/pour something like epoxy inside those letters to make them sturdy and kinda solid, so afrerwards I could put some metal filler on them, sand and paint them, drill some holes and fix them back on the weathercock. What do you think would be the best way to fix the letters? I understand the epoxy might not be the best option. Thank you very much!
@@vsemprivet Sounds like you mainly need it sturdier for the restoration. You might be able to use sand casting mold sand and do a side at a time. Pack in sand on the cavity and use it as a temporary filling. Then flip and repeat
@@joe_diy Interesting idea, thank you very much! I'll share the result with you ))
So was the plate just painted (stainless) steel and the laser burns off the paint and cuts the holes? How much did that thing set you back? Also that was awesome!
Coated aluminum. And yup, for this application I just burned off the black coating. The machine can do a lot more though. They run about 3k. Worth every penny
😂😂 I think your poor drill bit just asked you to sharpen him. Ol' fella ain't quite biting like he used to.
Those aren't as old as you might think. I sold those as replacement turn signals for older vehicles, farm vehicles and such back in 1978. 🤣🤣🤣
Came here from paul shinn
nice work
Have to ask though, why does every restoration channel copy @mymechanics video style? Is it so hard to come up with an creative style?
Just so you know... That's not heat shrink tubing you're using there, it's nylon expandable sock. Heating it does nothing but melt it and make it less flexible. You should only apply heat to the cut ends to melt the fibres together to stop it fraying. Oh and your drill bit is worn out!
Thanks for the tip! That is actually heat shrink fabric, not expandable nylon. You can get it from buyheatshrink.com
Hi, do you have one to sell?
12:28 Plankton screams for his life.
Impressive work!Would you consider making and selling a face plate for mine?
What is it?
Do you ever sell your completed work? Sure would be nice to have!
No, I either keep them or send them out to other creators.
Thank you for your reply back to me, I spent a large amount of time yesterday looking for that exact turn signal without any luck. Looking forward to more of your videos!
Which lucky Ford gets this resto part?
Paul Shinn's sport coupe!
E como é que funciona isso?
Для чего эта штука?
Dude you so need to sharpen your drill
Agreed
👍🎨👍🔩👍🪛👍🗜👍🧪⚗️👍🛠👍🧰👍🖨💯🏆🥇🍺🍻🥂🍾🎉🥳🎊👏👏👏👏👏👌👌👌👍👍👍 Like 😁😉🙂💖
Вот если бы ещё пояснение на русском языке....
А пока мы не знаем, что это такое, вот если бы мы знали что это такое, то было бы очень интересно что это такое.
very strange !!,....where is the Test ????......
Watch the whole video, there is a link in the description and in the video to the test
??
Where you at? It’s been awhile!!!
Slowly working through the next few projects.
👌👍
Been ages since i've seen one of these. Neat.