- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! - Vacuum Pump for VW 2.5L 5Cyl shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/07k145100h-vw-2-5-vacuum-pump.html Vacuum Pump Gasket for 2.5L shopdap.com/07k-145-215-a.html Hose Clamp Pliers for VW and Audi shopdap.com/vw-audi-hose-clamp-spring-pliers.html 34pc Torx Bit Set shopdap.com/vw-audi-torx-sockets.html
For those doing this at home and potentially in their driveways or areas that are not exactly flat, chock your wheels in case you bump the gear selector on top of the transmission. This will prevent the vehicle from rolling away.
This video is now almost 4 years old and there are gasket/seal rebuild kits available which can let you keep your original vacuum pump. If only the one orange gasket seal (battery side) fails, it is much easier to replace this seal than having to remove the entire pump. Still, this is an excellent video and knowing where to get this pump at a good price is a great thing. Detailed procedure is excellent!
How do I get the seal back on and keep it on after it comes off? I was installing a brand new pump when that happened, and now I can't get the seal back on because it somehow became longer....
@@EseanB I ended up removing the entire pump and sourcing the vacuum from the intake manifold to throttle body. Integrated Engineering makes a special seal plate and there are several videos and RUclips videos on doing this. It actually adds some horsepower and is much more efficient. I've since sold the car but this was a major improvement. The pump was really designed for engines with a turbo charger and VW just saved some manufacturing costs by putting this pump on everything. A non-turbo engine does not need this pump.
I have been dealing with this oil leak issue for a long time and I am glad I finally stumbled upon this video. It seems that there is a gasket kit available with two gaskets, a one way valve and screws. Thank you very much!
I appreciate you showing 7:20 and explaining how to disconnect connectors for secondary air hoses. This seems like a simple thing, for those of you experienced with the connectors, but this wasn't the case for me. Seeing it demonstrated was important because I might have tried twisting the connector, and if I did, we all know it would have broken. Seriously, thank you for showing this small but important detail.
I am really appreciate these videos. I have 2 2.5L engine cars and the work you have been doing restoring this Jetta is very helpful to me. Just wanted to say thanks!
I bought this part from you guys and installed it myself, learned how to from RUclips before this video was up, I waited too long to install it and heads up to anyone having this leak, it can leak onto your starter and mess it up exactly what happened to me but was able to replace both my self also having the right tools helps!
Thank you so much for the video. I just finished my vacuum pump installation on my 2009 Beetle. I couldn't have done it without it. Everything went as you described. You saved me a bunch. Only thing I can add, be careful with the fiber washer under the nut on the shift switch you remove. Its very brittle. Broke mine wiping it off. Not an easy find for size and thickness but an hour in the local hardware store netted me a nylon one that worked. You guy's are awesome.
The dealer and independent shop claimed I had to have the transmission pulled in order to do this job on my '09 MK5. I was being charged 1350$ parts/labor for that job to done. I'm glad I found this video.
I just did this...a couple of helpful tips - the bolts that mount the pump to the timing housing, the bottom one is hard to get to. Keep a finger underneath it so in case you drop it it doesn't disappear into oblivion. A few of these videos mentioned that being a problem so I was extra careful and didn't run into this issue. It would be a good idea to have a magnetic socket set or magnet on hand. Also, when tightening the transmission nut back on top of the selector it is easy to accidentally turn it into gear. Be sure to check it is in the fully counter clockwise position before putting the cable back on. When I went to start the car the brakes were very hard and it didn't think i was applying the brake to let me start the engine. I let it build a bit of pressure and pushed the brake extra hard and it started right up. After disconnecting the battery if you have auto roll up/down windows they will appear to no longer be able to do the auto function. You simply need to roll them all the way up and all the way down for them to be reset and they should work fine. Great video, this saved me a lot of $!
Thank you for the video. Taking on project like this I had hesitations about messing it up. I order the part and followed your detail instructions. With no issues, I installed it in couple of hours. No more leaking oil!!! Thank you again.
great vid ......doing this job in the morning on a 07 jetta im a mechanic but i like to see a new job i, going to do be done once. for me it has saved much time and money over the years. humility can be a mechanics best friend. ty !!!!
Some tips if you're an amateur like me: 1) You can do this by only buying new gaskets (no new pump for $200+). Just search vw 2.5 vacuum pump gasket on amazon. can be as low as $20 making for ridiculous savings relative to vw dealer quote in the $1000's. 2) Use white lithium on the new rubber gasket. improves seal and will make it last longer, so why not for ~$5 at harbor freight. 3) Use black silicon on the new metal gasket. This keeps the metal gasket in place as you put the pump on, which is important, and improves the seal. Again, ~$5. 4) Make sure, when you put the pump on the order is engine, metal gasket, pump, THEN bracket. Any other order causes a horrible oil leak and you'll think you killed your car. Hope this is helpful.
On my 2006 beetle with a manual, this turned out to be even easier than this, and didn't even have to remove the shift linkage or housing cover. Though it looks a bit different than on this car, these instructions really did help a lot with the process. The shop was estimating 9 hours and over $2K for a job that took me a grand total of 4 hours taking it slow.
@@bronzedonmarcus7647 If it is the 5-speed (Code HJE) manual on the i5 BPR engine (I believe the BPS is similar enough), removing the intake box and hoses, as well as the battery box should allow you to get access to the area. I was fortunate enough to not have to remove any transmission cabling, but I had to move the shifter to get the shift selector in a location out of the way (trial and error will help here). To get better access to the vacuum pump, I disconnected the large coolant return hose on the transmisson side of the engine and moved it out of the way. This should give fairly free access to all of the necessary bolts and should allow the pump to be removed without any disassembly of the vacuum pump itself. You should also be able to get the replacement pump back in without any disassembly as well, just make sure to note the orientation of the drive lugs, because that can be a bit of a hassle if it is out of alignment. Not disassembling the vacuum pump will probably decrease chances of it failing in the future. Just as a precaution, do not forget to have a new metal gasket for the mating surface between the pump and the engine.
Dude u jst solve my oil all over the the bottom of my car problem as well as my brake issue I think will find out tomorrow when I take tires off. Thank u thank u
This particular mechanic shop dealt with mostly big insurance companies from what i saw but after checking my car i paid 190.00 dollars for him to tell me it was the vacuum pump, but he did tell me my exact problem and for them to put it on it would cost 1,190 dollars, I checked online and youtube and found out the part is not over 200 bucks and a reasonable mechanics should charge between 150 to 200 dollars ha! My very knowledgeable mechanic friend put mine on for free! Now it took him about 3 hours because the part is kind of tricky to get to but a person who knows about cars can do this, LADIES PLEASE DON'T PAY NO ONE THAT KIND OF MONEY FOR THIS JOB! 200 HUNDRED DOLLARS IS THE MOST ANYONE SHOULD PAY! DON'T BE FOOLED THANK GOD FOR THIS VIDEO AND RUclips! HAHA
Gasket kits on amazon for 40 bucks. Does the same as new vac pump. Saved 160 bucks.. go cheaper before you fully decide to throw your money at it just Incase it’s not what is actually wrong.
Hello, thank you for the very detailed video. I have everything off now but I had a heck of a time moving those rad hoses. I think I will have to remove the hoses to put it back as it was a challenge. Ill have to check if they are secured by brackets near the back first.
Great video. Thanks a lot. The one thing I don’t get is why you do have to marke the shift assembly as it will get back in place. I mean can’t be misaligned!!
It's a bit easier if you actually take that 10mm bolt out of the bracket first. Also, here's a tip I learned: hold a small bit of paper over the head of the torx bolt before sticking the torx bit into it. It'll hold the bolt onto the bit with a little more friction when putting the bolts back in, then simply fall away when you take the bit off.
You had either a repair manual or talked to someone who knew, coughed up the money to fix it, lived with the oil leak and kept topping it off or cars were simpler.
Can you explain in greater detail the rational and purpose for marking the bolts with marking paint. *What happens if one does not mark these bolts? Is there a torquing issue in play for this recommended step? What is the consequence of the 10mm bolts not lining up with the yellow markings after tightening down?
I wasn't sure of that either. It might be for torque but the two bolts just tighten down into the transmission housing and serve no other purpose than to just hold the actuator? in place. I gave them two a good snug, not over tightening and no problems.
Since the Piersburg vacuum pump is identical to the original ones, does that mean that they still have the design flaw that makes them leak in the first place?
First thing I thought also, but me having a 08 rabbit in Ontario dealing with this issue after 315000 Klm and 11 owners before me lol all service records from vw up to 250 000 I think it’s safe to say it won’t be an issue once replaced. Mk6 would be a different conversation.. I thought it was a valve cover at first or maybe my transmission as I have a manual not automatic. My Transmission uses gear oil instead of tranny fluid would not be able to tell the difference on the floor if you spot a leak, automatic would be pink but gear oil looks the same as engine oil. This makes perfect sense to me now cause my fluids have not really changed much transmission is fine yet the bottom of my case looks like the inside of a kfc deep fryer after it took a double shift at a McDonald’s lol 😂 I know valve covers, vacuum, head liners, and door locks can be a problem but I’ll take a German built vw over a Honda all day mk6 sh!& the bed! 👎 my buddy has a 30 edition gli Jetta and had to have his timing chain done before 100k assembled in mex still stalls going in reverse.. and it’s automatic!
My vacuum pump is leaking from the brake booster. I found a Dorman kit that includes it, but I'm wondering if it's possible to replace the booster nipple without removing the pump completely? Note: I have already replaced the outer gasket from a RXV rebuild kit.
Happy Holidays. Your videos and the information you share about VW parts and repairs are unequaled on the internet. I mean that. I was wondering if I could make a special request here. I own a 2006 Jetta 2.5L engine similar to the one in this video. I may or may not have an oil vacuum pump issue as I do have some oil collection similar to the areas you showed here. Just recently my oil pressure light has been flashing mostly coming on when I accelerate when driving. Idling is fine as the warning light does not appear then and I have stopped driving it for now as the lifters are more audible than before. Oil and filter was changed recently and the oil level is fine. All online research points to a bad or malfunctioning oil pressure sensor. Apologies for the long preamble, but I was wondering if you can do a video on how to replace the oil sensor on this motor? I can't seem to find any really descriptive pictures, tutorials or videos on where this sensor is located and how to get at it. Can you help? Thank you.
Since there are after market kits for the gasket on this vacuum pump, do you think it can last as good as the oem vacuum pump? Coz the vacuum pump cost about $200+ while the gasket kits is only $10+. Any experience with replacing the gasket only?
What a pain in the ass that bottom torx screw is on the pump. I was using a regular long "L" allen and cracked the screw free using an adjustable wench for torque. Loosening it wasn't a problem but man it took me like half an hour trying to get that screw back on and then tightening bit by bit with the allen I had lol I highly recommend that if your gonna do this, be prepared with a ratcheting long head bit. The bolt is actually a T30 and not a T27. At least on my Jetta 12' it was T30 on the pump frame and T25 on the faceplate.
Thanks. Good and informative. How about use SKX or other Gasket, O-Ring and Seal kit from online or auto parts store and replace. Mostly leaks around the front cover plate Seal...
You mean to tell me there is aftermarket seal replacement available even in Dec 2020? If not and you do have to buy the vacuum pump, why not just replace the seal instead of going thru the hassle of replacing the entire pump?
Update: VW is on revision "K". Pieburg appears to be on "H" still along with other aftermarket options such as from Ixetic. Some reasons for revision are discussed by Charles HM - revised cover metal and o-ring. Consider best chance of doing the job once and not repeat.
You said the gasket is not available but I found it on e bay, is that might be a wrong choice? Now I notice the time of your video is dec 2017 now is 06/2018
Hey, what do you think about the spulen vacuum pump delete? My car is leaking from there, and I heard about the delete option. I just want to know what you think about it. Thanks!
If you are replacing the part with the same OEM part wouldn't it just cause the same issue because of the different metals? Or did I miss something here?
How are you getting the torque correct (10 newton meters) when reinstalling the T27 screws on the pump? Guesstimating? 10nm isn't much, just under 7.5 ft-lbs.
I forgot to mark those 2 bolts but luckily my shift selector was caked in shit lol So I knew where to put it back once I finished the task lol the crap helped me align it right.
hi i replaced my pump today and when i tried to start my car it had and issue cranking up , after a fiew tries it started right up , looked at the new pump and i saw it was leaking from the part the mates to the engine, also did not change the inner gasket , is this my issue ???
Thanks for the vid! Quick question: What would the symptoms be if the drive select mechanism wasn't reinstalled in the exact position? My Rabbit is making a whining noise under acceleration/shifting and I wonder if that could be the result of me not reinstalling the drive select mechanism properly?
@TheHiddenArchives NP! It was a huge relief to discover that it was just the resonator finally rusting out after 12 years. On a separate-but-related note, what's the deal with these cars having essentially three mufflers behind the cat!?
@TheHiddenArchives Delete kit? I can't really speak to that. I just repaired/replaced the two gaskets andkept the original pump. I've heard the delete kits work though.
Hi thanks for the vid! Wondering at 18:45, what type of bit driver and extension did you use to access the bottom left torx 27 screw that’s connected from the pump to the cylinder head? I’m semi new to the repair community and still finding my way around tools and such. Would you be able to provide links or list of tools I would need for the driver and extensions you used? Also going to attempt to replace my valve cover - your vids have given me confidence to do it myself. I’m tired of paying big $$ to VW for these types of repairs. Thanks!
Has anyone else sheared one of the main 3 T30 bolts? I'm an idiot/stronger than i think and do not know how to weld. Is drilling the bolt my only option or is there anything else I can try before going to a shop? Many thanks in advance
carlos alvarez I’ve been running my Jetta for a while with it but it’s always a good idea to take care of oil leaks. If you rebuild the vacuum pump by replacing the gaskets it should stop the leaks they sell kits online
Sorry about the trouble. Please take a look here shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/jetta/mk6-2011-2014/engine/2-5/repair/pcv-and-vacuum/07k-145-215-a.html
The piece that goes inside that hold broke off and fell inside. I can't get it out with my fingers because there are chains in the way. How can I gain access to that compartment?
@TheHiddenArchives ya i had to take off the entire cover. I never found the washer that holds the piece on though. Looks like a skinny nickel. I looked everywhere, put the car back together, and it's been fine ever since.
No, Replacing pump on manual is simple because the entire pump slides on and off unimpeded. This entire method is a hack to avoid VW's recommendation to separate the transmission.
Did you reconnect the transmission cable? Also mine wanted to do this when I first started it after the repair. I had to simply apply extra brake pressure (I assume it had to rebuild pressure) and it started
Hi just saw your comment to the park not engaging issue. I just swapped out my pump but after that my car would jolt really hard from going from park to neutral and to drive. Also seems to have affected the gears when driving. I'm thinking the issue is with the neutral safety switch/shift selector position. Did you ever have any luck resolving this issue?
I am confused. At 1:15 of your video, you state the gasket is not available individually. However, in the description of your video beneath the "Show More" link, you have included a link to purchase a Vacuum Pump Gasket for 2.5L shopdap.com/vw-audi-hose-clam... (So which is it? Th gasket is available for replacement only or is it NOT available?)
@@satisol7 No luck finding the official part. Ended up using a high temp washer from an oil drainplug. That entire nut and locking washer rotate when you shift gears. I think the purpose of the black washer is to take that wear.
@@Roanadventures yeah but it work just for.two.monts y buy a kit a couple of.monts ago a gasket kit and its works perfectly it past lime a mm 6 monts maiby 7 and no leaks
@carlos alvarez. This is where I got it and it worked perfect! NewYall Vacuum Pump Rebuild Seal... www.amazon.com/dp/B07MBG7KTD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Frank G Did you just remove the 4 screws, remove the backing plate, and install the one gasket? Or did you remove the entire vacuum pump? Where does the other gasket go? I seem to only see the circle gasket that fits into that teardrop shape (I think).
@@joehumeas7196 No. I removed the whole vacuum pump took it apart and replaced the gasket that goes against the engine, then another gasket that goes to those 4 screws you're talking about and then there's an O ring that goes on the valve stem straight to your brake booster. I replaced all those gaskets and it's working perfect! No leaks at all and it used to leak like a water fountain lol. good luck! and.
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Vacuum Pump for VW 2.5L 5Cyl
shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/07k145100h-vw-2-5-vacuum-pump.html
Vacuum Pump Gasket for 2.5L
shopdap.com/07k-145-215-a.html
Hose Clamp Pliers for VW and Audi
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34pc Torx Bit Set
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Do you sell the hose itself? I cannot find the part number for it even on parts dot vw.
For those doing this at home and potentially in their driveways or areas that are not exactly flat, chock your wheels in case you bump the gear selector on top of the transmission. This will prevent the vehicle from rolling away.
The VW dealership wanted to charge over $1,500 for this job. The whole time I was thinking why would I pay that? I got RUclips! Great video!
Thank you so much for this video. The dealership quoted 1335.00 for this repair. It only took about 2 hours and cost around 150.00.
$1350 for me
@@nutachka86 $1800+ for me!
Independent mechanic charged me $190 for labor
Dealers are asking $1,200-$2000. VW really should have done a recall on this. Thanks for posting this video.
yep
This video is now almost 4 years old and there are gasket/seal rebuild kits available which can let you keep your original vacuum pump. If only the one orange gasket seal (battery side) fails, it is much easier to replace this seal than having to remove the entire pump. Still, this is an excellent video and knowing where to get this pump at a good price is a great thing. Detailed procedure is excellent!
How do I get the seal back on and keep it on after it comes off?
I was installing a brand new pump when that happened, and now I can't get the seal back on because it somehow became longer....
@@EseanB I ended up removing the entire pump and sourcing the vacuum from the intake manifold to throttle body. Integrated Engineering makes a special seal plate and there are several videos and RUclips videos on doing this. It actually adds some horsepower and is much more efficient.
I've since sold the car but this was a major improvement.
The pump was really designed for engines with a turbo charger and VW just saved some manufacturing costs by putting this pump on everything. A non-turbo engine does not need this pump.
@@boomerguy9935 , interesting. I'll keep that in mind, but that doesn't help with my current purchase predicament.
I have been dealing with this oil leak issue for a long time and I am glad I finally stumbled upon this video. It seems that there is a gasket kit available with two gaskets, a one way valve and screws. Thank you very much!
I appreciate you showing 7:20 and explaining how to disconnect connectors for secondary air hoses. This seems like a simple thing, for those of you experienced with the connectors, but this wasn't the case for me. Seeing it demonstrated was important because I might have tried twisting the connector, and if I did, we all know it would have broken. Seriously, thank you for showing this small but important detail.
I am really appreciate these videos. I have 2 2.5L engine cars and the work you have been doing restoring this Jetta is very helpful to me. Just wanted to say thanks!
I bought this part from you guys and installed it myself, learned how to from RUclips before this video was up, I waited too long to install it and heads up to anyone having this leak, it can leak onto your starter and mess it up exactly what happened to me but was able to replace both my self also having the right tools helps!
Thanks for the purchase. We appreciate it very much. Sorry to hear about your starter
Thank you so much for the video. I just finished my vacuum pump installation on my 2009 Beetle. I couldn't have done it without it. Everything went as you described. You saved me a bunch. Only thing I can add, be careful with the fiber washer under the nut on the shift switch you remove. Its very brittle. Broke mine wiping it off. Not an easy find for size and thickness but an hour in the local hardware store netted me a nylon one that worked. You guy's are awesome.
The dealer and independent shop claimed I had to have the transmission pulled in order to do this job on my '09 MK5. I was being charged 1350$ parts/labor for that job to done. I'm glad I found this video.
I just did this...a couple of helpful tips -
the bolts that mount the pump to the timing housing, the bottom one is hard to get to. Keep a finger underneath it so in case you drop it it doesn't disappear into oblivion. A few of these videos mentioned that being a problem so I was extra careful and didn't run into this issue. It would be a good idea to have a magnetic socket set or magnet on hand.
Also, when tightening the transmission nut back on top of the selector it is easy to accidentally turn it into gear. Be sure to check it is in the fully counter clockwise position before putting the cable back on.
When I went to start the car the brakes were very hard and it didn't think i was applying the brake to let me start the engine. I let it build a bit of pressure and pushed the brake extra hard and it started right up.
After disconnecting the battery if you have auto roll up/down windows they will appear to no longer be able to do the auto function. You simply need to roll them all the way up and all the way down for them to be reset and they should work fine.
Great video, this saved me a lot of $!
Excellent comment👌🏼 thank you.
Thank you for the video. Taking on project like this I had hesitations about messing it up. I order the part and followed your detail instructions. With no issues, I installed it in couple of hours. No more leaking oil!!! Thank you again.
Excellent DIY guide! I'll be tackling this task on my 2012 Passat tomorrow. Appreciate your effort in demonstrating how it's done.😃😃👍👍
great vid ......doing this job in the morning on a 07 jetta im a mechanic but i like to see a new job i, going to do be done once. for me it has saved much time and money over the years. humility can be a mechanics best friend. ty !!!!
This video saved me about $1,000 vs what the stealership was going to charge me. Thank you so much.
Some tips if you're an amateur like me: 1) You can do this by only
buying new gaskets (no new pump for $200+). Just search vw 2.5 vacuum
pump gasket on amazon. can be as low as $20 making for ridiculous
savings relative to vw dealer quote in the $1000's. 2) Use white
lithium on the new rubber gasket. improves seal and will make it last
longer, so why not for ~$5 at harbor freight. 3) Use black silicon on
the new metal gasket. This keeps the metal gasket in place as you put the pump on,
which is important, and improves the seal. Again, ~$5. 4) Make sure,
when you put the pump on the order is engine, metal gasket, pump, THEN
bracket. Any other order causes a horrible oil leak and you'll think
you killed your car. Hope this is helpful.
Thank you I put the bracket on wrong and my car started pouring oil. Hopefully I can get it done.
@@yerpster yep. I did that too! But now its been running fine ever since i put the bracket on correctly. Hope yours works out too.
This comment was the one I needed. Thanks for proper order for that bracket!
On my 2006 beetle with a manual, this turned out to be even easier than this, and didn't even have to remove the shift linkage or housing cover. Though it looks a bit different than on this car, these instructions really did help a lot with the process. The shop was estimating 9 hours and over $2K for a job that took me a grand total of 4 hours taking it slow.
I'm about to do the same thing on my 06 Jetta that's a manual. Any tips or differences to note that the video doesn't go over for manuals?
@@bronzedonmarcus7647 If it is the 5-speed (Code HJE) manual on the i5 BPR engine (I believe the BPS is similar enough), removing the intake box and hoses, as well as the battery box should allow you to get access to the area. I was fortunate enough to not have to remove any transmission cabling, but I had to move the shifter to get the shift selector in a location out of the way (trial and error will help here). To get better access to the vacuum pump, I disconnected the large coolant return hose on the transmisson side of the engine and moved it out of the way. This should give fairly free access to all of the necessary bolts and should allow the pump to be removed without any disassembly of the vacuum pump itself. You should also be able to get the replacement pump back in without any disassembly as well, just make sure to note the orientation of the drive lugs, because that can be a bit of a hassle if it is out of alignment. Not disassembling the vacuum pump will probably decrease chances of it failing in the future. Just as a precaution, do not forget to have a new metal gasket for the mating surface between the pump and the engine.
@@TheHengeProphet Awesome thank you!
@@bronzedonmarcus7647 one more thing, the torx bolts for the vacuum pump are aluminum and hard to find. Torque them to 7Nm
Hey I've met this guy super useful guides and very friendly staff I'm glad I live close to them
Awesome video. I bought the vacuum pump from you guys. Fixed my daughter's Jetta.
Thank you for the purchase the the feedback. We appreciate it very much.
thank you you save me 1100 bucks today...i follow this video to the T.... and i did so dam good...thank you again..
Dude u jst solve my oil all over the the bottom of my car problem as well as my brake issue I think will find out tomorrow when I take tires off. Thank u thank u
I was able to see the bolts under the bottom from under the car. Great video. Wish you had more MKV vids. Thanks guys.
This particular mechanic shop dealt with mostly big insurance companies from what i saw but after checking my car i paid 190.00 dollars for him to tell me it was the vacuum pump, but he did tell me my exact problem and for them to put it on it would cost 1,190 dollars, I checked online and youtube and found out the part is not over 200 bucks and a reasonable mechanics should charge between 150 to 200 dollars ha! My very knowledgeable mechanic friend put mine on for free! Now it took him about 3 hours because the part is kind of tricky to get to but a person who knows about cars can do this, LADIES PLEASE DON'T PAY NO ONE THAT KIND OF MONEY FOR THIS JOB! 200 HUNDRED DOLLARS IS THE MOST ANYONE SHOULD PAY! DON'T BE FOOLED THANK GOD FOR THIS VIDEO AND RUclips! HAHA
FYI now you can buy 1/4 drive bits for those hard to get torx 27 screws. I have had mine for a few years now...
Gasket kits on amazon for 40 bucks. Does the same as new vac pump. Saved 160 bucks.. go cheaper before you fully decide to throw your money at it just Incase it’s not what is actually wrong.
Hello, thank you for the very detailed video. I have everything off now but I had a heck of a time moving those rad hoses. I think I will have to remove the hoses to put it back as it was a challenge. Ill have to check if they are secured by brackets near the back first.
BBR makes a gasket set. No need to replace the pump.
Dude thank you so much the dealership charge me over $1000 for this with labor/ parts was scared it was a major problem. 🙏🙏
Great video. Thanks a lot. The one thing I don’t get is why you do have to marke the shift assembly as it will get back in place. I mean can’t be misaligned!!
The holes are elongated so there is some adjustment in it so it can be out of alignment on this engine
It's a bit easier if you actually take that 10mm bolt out of the bracket first. Also, here's a tip I learned: hold a small bit of paper over the head of the torx bolt before sticking the torx bit into it. It'll hold the bolt onto the bit with a little more friction when putting the bolts back in, then simply fall away when you take the bit off.
Great video. How did we survive pre internet?
Seriously, how did we!?
You had either a repair manual or talked to someone who knew, coughed up the money to fix it, lived with the oil leak and kept topping it off or cars were simpler.
Can you explain in greater detail the rational and purpose for marking the bolts with marking paint. *What happens if one does not mark these bolts? Is there a torquing issue in play for this recommended step? What is the consequence of the 10mm bolts not lining up with the yellow markings after tightening down?
I wasn't sure of that either. It might be for torque but the two bolts just tighten down into the transmission housing and serve no other purpose than to just hold the actuator? in place.
I gave them two a good snug, not over tightening and no problems.
Since the Piersburg vacuum pump is identical to the original ones, does that mean that they still have the design flaw that makes them leak in the first place?
First thing I thought also, but me having a 08 rabbit in Ontario dealing with this issue after 315000 Klm and 11 owners before me lol all service records from vw up to 250 000 I think it’s safe to say it won’t be an issue once replaced. Mk6 would be a different conversation.. I thought it was a valve cover at first or maybe my transmission as I have a manual not automatic. My Transmission uses gear oil instead of tranny fluid would not be able to tell the difference on the floor if you spot a leak, automatic would be pink but gear oil looks the same as engine oil. This makes perfect sense to me now cause my fluids have not really changed much transmission is fine yet the bottom of my case looks like the inside of a kfc deep fryer after it took a double shift at a McDonald’s lol 😂 I know valve covers, vacuum, head liners, and door locks can be a problem but I’ll take a German built vw over a Honda all day mk6 sh!& the bed! 👎 my buddy has a 30 edition gli Jetta and had to have his timing chain done before 100k assembled in mex still stalls going in reverse.. and it’s automatic!
My vacuum pump is leaking from the brake booster. I found a Dorman kit that includes it, but I'm wondering if it's possible to replace the booster nipple without removing the pump completely? Note: I have already replaced the outer gasket from a RXV rebuild kit.
Happy Holidays. Your videos and the information you share about VW parts and repairs are unequaled on the internet. I mean that. I was wondering if I could make a special request here. I own a 2006 Jetta 2.5L engine similar to the one in this video. I may or may not have an oil vacuum pump issue as I do have some oil collection similar to the areas you showed here. Just recently my oil pressure light has been flashing mostly coming on when I accelerate when driving. Idling is fine as the warning light does not appear then and I have stopped driving it for now as the lifters are more audible than before. Oil and filter was changed recently and the oil level is fine. All online research points to a bad or malfunctioning oil pressure sensor. Apologies for the long preamble, but I was wondering if you can do a video on how to replace the oil sensor on this motor? I can't seem to find any really descriptive pictures, tutorials or videos on where this sensor is located and how to get at it. Can you help? Thank you.
Since there are after market kits for the gasket on this vacuum pump, do you think it can last as good as the oem vacuum pump? Coz the vacuum pump cost about $200+ while the gasket kits is only $10+. Any experience with replacing the gasket only?
Can you replace the vaccuum pump without having to remove transmission on a Beetle or can you only use this trick on a Jetta?
Also really appreciating the 2.5 videos! Thank you!!
Thank you for the videos, have the exact same jetta and you have helped me immensely.
Thoroughly and professionally!!!
Thank you very much!!!
Would you suggest cleaning the mating surface with brake cleaner before installing the new pump / gasket?
What a pain in the ass that bottom torx screw is on the pump. I was using a regular long "L" allen and cracked the screw free using an adjustable wench for torque.
Loosening it wasn't a problem but man it took me like half an hour trying to get that screw back on and then tightening bit by bit with the allen I had lol
I highly recommend that if your gonna do this, be prepared with a ratcheting long head bit. The bolt is actually a T30 and not a T27.
At least on my Jetta 12' it was T30 on the pump frame and T25 on the faceplate.
Thanks. Good and informative. How about use SKX or other Gasket, O-Ring and Seal kit from online or auto parts store and replace. Mostly leaks around the front cover plate Seal...
Dude you can get just the gaskets. I did from Amazon. Thank you!
Very well done how to video! Thanks.
Is the vacuum pump delete that spulen offers a safe replacement?
Why isn't there any repair video for the 1.8 tsi? Websites only shows pump for 2.5l engines. Is it the same pump for the 1.8 tsi???
thanks for sharing .Very clear and well explained video... keep those vids rolling my friend.
You mean to tell me there is aftermarket seal replacement available even in Dec 2020? If not and you do have to buy the vacuum pump, why not just replace the seal instead of going thru the hassle of replacing the entire pump?
Great camera work!
Should I just buy the valve gasket or the whole vacuum pump? I heard 90% of the time it works for the Jetta 2.5 L
I was told today my vaccum pump is leaking oil so ima try to do this myself soon hopefully it goes well
hi, how did you go?
Did anyone use a gasket sealer?
Thank you for the video, but do I need to fix this problem if I have 1-2 oil drop everyday? and what will happen if I didn't fix it?
Fadi Alsayar it’s ok to leave it for a little bit but clean it a lot and maintain your oil level
Can you please do the tutoring for the TSI TIGUAN 2010? Thank You
Thank you so much for this opportunity of the video
There is actually gaskets sold on Amazon for this repair and they cost 35-40$.
This car has an automatic transmission. Will this work with a 5MT on a 2011 Jetta, too? If so, will it impact the shift cable adjustment?
Update: VW is on revision "K". Pieburg appears to be on "H" still along with other aftermarket options such as from Ixetic. Some reasons for revision are discussed by Charles HM - revised cover metal and o-ring. Consider best chance of doing the job once and not repeat.
You said the gasket is not available but I found it on e bay, is that might be a wrong choice? Now I notice the time of your video is dec 2017 now is 06/2018
111 could you please send me the link for that gasket?
Thank you 🙏
Where are you located?
Thanks for the video.
Hey, what do you think about the spulen vacuum pump delete? My car is leaking from there, and I heard about the delete option. I just want to know what you think about it. Thanks!
If you are replacing the part with the same OEM part wouldn't it just cause the same issue because of the different metals? Or did I miss something here?
Great video man very thorough!!
good afternoon that pressure is the one that the screws that hold it to the block
How are you getting the torque correct (10 newton meters) when reinstalling the T27 screws on the pump? Guesstimating? 10nm isn't much, just under 7.5 ft-lbs.
I forgot to mark those 2 bolts but luckily my shift selector was caked in shit lol So I knew where to put it back once I finished the task lol the crap helped me align it right.
My 2011 2.5 L jetta threw a P0491 code, Insufficient Flow Bank 1. Is this the Secondary air flow pump?
Is this the same for automatic and standard transmission?
I’m 100% certain this is my issue on my 2012 vw Jetta se 2.5l
Is this procedure the same with a manual transmission?
hi i replaced my pump today and when i tried to start my car it had and issue cranking up , after a fiew tries it started right up , looked at the new pump and i saw it was leaking from the part the mates to the engine, also did not change the inner gasket , is this my issue ???
Thanks for the vid! Quick question: What would the symptoms be if the drive select mechanism wasn't reinstalled in the exact position? My Rabbit is making a whining noise under acceleration/shifting and I wonder if that could be the result of me not reinstalling the drive select mechanism properly?
@TheHiddenArchives Nope. Turns out it was just an exhaust leak that happened to start at the same time as this repair.
@TheHiddenArchives NP! It was a huge relief to discover that it was just the resonator finally rusting out after 12 years. On a separate-but-related note, what's the deal with these cars having essentially three mufflers behind the cat!?
@TheHiddenArchives Delete kit? I can't really speak to that. I just repaired/replaced the two gaskets andkept the original pump. I've heard the delete kits work though.
Can anyone please confirm the length of the 3 t30 screws which bolt the pump? I managed to snap one off and need to replace, thanks!
Does this also work for the Passat 2.5
Can these pumps fail regaurdless of age or mileage.
I lost my finger washer where can I get this part
Can I just replace the seals/gaskets?
replacing a whole pump because the gasket cannot be purchased individually....thanks VW!
you can get an aftermarket rebuild kit.
I found a replacement kit at Amazon for my 2012 vw jetta.
Hi thanks for the vid! Wondering at 18:45, what type of bit driver and extension did you use to access the bottom left torx 27 screw that’s connected from the pump to the cylinder head? I’m semi new to the repair community and still finding my way around tools and such. Would you be able to provide links or list of tools I would need for the driver and extensions you used? Also going to attempt to replace my valve cover - your vids have given me confidence to do it myself. I’m tired of paying big $$ to VW for these types of repairs. Thanks!
It was in this kit www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-torx-sockets.html. Glad you found this insightful
Has anyone else sheared one of the main 3 T30 bolts? I'm an idiot/stronger than i think and do not know how to weld. Is drilling the bolt my only option or is there anything else I can try before going to a shop? Many thanks in advance
at 3:00, why can you see the flywheel teeth at the bottom? is that a hole in the gearbox? or is it meant to be like that?
joesoapsk8 it’s meant to be like that.
How long can I drive car with this problem as long as I keep oil monitored?
carlos alvarez I’ve been running my Jetta for a while with it but it’s always a good idea to take care of oil leaks. If you rebuild the vacuum pump by replacing the gaskets it should stop the leaks they sell kits online
Did this repair and now my car is stuck on park. I try resetting the shifter but didn’t do anything. Any one have any tips or suggestions?
Would this also be the same for the 2.5 2012 passat?
the link for the vacuum pump gasket is not working. Any alternative link?
Sorry about the trouble. Please take a look here
shopdap.com/make-model-year/volkswagen/jetta/mk6-2011-2014/engine/2-5/repair/pcv-and-vacuum/07k-145-215-a.html
Would it cause the car to stall?
Спасибо за подробное видео!
Очень познавательно
Thank you! Your video was a huge help!
The piece that goes inside that hold broke off and fell inside. I can't get it out with my fingers because there are chains in the way. How can I gain access to that compartment?
@TheHiddenArchives ya i had to take off the entire cover. I never found the washer that holds the piece on though. Looks like a skinny nickel. I looked everywhere, put the car back together, and it's been fine ever since.
Is this an automatic transmission? If yes, is that stud an issue on a manual transmission?
This is only an issue on Automatic cars
No, Replacing pump on manual is simple because the entire pump slides on and off unimpeded. This entire method is a hack to avoid VW's recommendation to separate the transmission.
Will this process work for a 2015 vw jetta 2.5?
I replaced the pump however after the car started but would not shift out of park, any suggestions?
Did you reconnect the transmission cable? Also mine wanted to do this when I first started it after the repair. I had to simply apply extra brake pressure (I assume it had to rebuild pressure) and it started
Hi just saw your comment to the park not engaging issue. I just swapped out my pump but after that my car would jolt really hard from going from park to neutral and to drive. Also seems to have affected the gears when driving. I'm thinking the issue is with the neutral safety switch/shift selector position. Did you ever have any luck resolving this issue?
I am confused. At 1:15 of your video, you state the gasket is not available individually. However, in the description of your video beneath the "Show More" link, you have included a link to purchase a Vacuum Pump Gasket for 2.5L shopdap.com/vw-audi-hose-clam... (So which is it? Th gasket is available for replacement only or is it NOT available?)
The video is from 2017.
What material or part number is the black washer on the shifter that gets removed at 14:43? Mine was completely disintegrated.
Any luck finding the type/Size of the washer?
@@satisol7 No luck finding the official part. Ended up using a high temp washer from an oil drainplug. That entire nut and locking washer rotate when you shift gears. I think the purpose of the black washer is to take that wear.
What dis you thinck about the gaskets kit to rebuild them ?is. It good ?
Did you try to use like a gasket sealer?
@@Roanadventures yeah but it work just for.two.monts y buy a kit a couple of.monts ago a gasket kit and its works perfectly it past lime a mm 6 monts maiby 7 and no leaks
Thanks so much for the helpful tip. I found a replacement gasket kit for this pump. would that work or do I have to buy the whole unit?
Frank G where did you get it?
@@carlingas666 Got it on Amazon.
@carlos alvarez. This is where I got it and it worked perfect! NewYall Vacuum Pump Rebuild Seal... www.amazon.com/dp/B07MBG7KTD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Frank G Did you just remove the 4 screws, remove the backing plate, and install the one gasket? Or did you remove the entire vacuum pump? Where does the other gasket go? I seem to only see the circle gasket that fits into that teardrop shape (I think).
@@joehumeas7196 No. I removed the whole vacuum pump took it apart and replaced the gasket that goes against the engine, then another gasket that goes to those 4 screws you're talking about and then there's an O ring that goes on the valve stem straight to your brake booster. I replaced all those gaskets and it's working perfect! No leaks at all and it used to leak like a water fountain lol. good luck! and.
Do you know the size bolt you market yellow? Also I didn't markt mine will it be fine?
It's a 10mm bolt. Was your car okay without aligning the bolts?
@@dizzyfeast308 thanks for answering my question. its ok so far but I do notice a difference it seems to be a bit more jerky.
We're you ever able to get the jerkiness resolved? Mine has been doing this too.
Not sure how to remove the battery tray, it is attached to the power steering in front.
Thank you so so much you help me out so much