really appreciate your videos guys.. and i also like the humor... and I am about to get my 3rd GTI.. 2022 GTI SE... after I totalled my 16 GTI after hitting a wheel that flew into my lane at 70mph. Radiator destroyed, Transmission destroyed, oil pan destroyed, internal frame damage, exhaust mangled and pulled out of the engine, gas tank destroyed. All fluids leaking out at the same time, no fire, family safe. The GTI back wheels went airborne, landed at a 45 degree angle, was able to recover, pull over, with no fire. Thank God for my GTI, a good handling car when it really counted!
For 240k miles, that engine was very clean inside. The owner definitely took good care of it, notwithstanding the misfire. Oil analysis would have shown the connecting rod bearings were failing long before the bearing spun.
My Mk 6 Golf R had a catastrophic failure at 84K miles of the tappet on the fuel pump piston (not uncommon, I learned), broken pieces of which were flung around inside and actually broke through the aluminum housings. It was impressive. Taking apart the top of the engine, I discovered several bolts had been installed with blue LocTite, which caused them to become stripped or break off in the head and block as I attempted removal. Not fun. The previous owner had it Stage 2 tuned with several APR kit parts, which I knew and definitely enjoyed the extra ponies, but the installer evidently thought LocTite was a good idea. I thoroughly enjoy your channel and content. Thanks for doing it!
Catastrophic failure caused by APR tune. That's why VW won't warranty engine failure caused by aftermarket mods. Extra pressure from the APR fuel pump.
@@einfelder8262 Figured I'd do a little copypasta from the google thing. APR Plus, a performance engine software for new Volkswagen vehicles, comes with a limited powertrain warranty. The warranty is valid for five years or 60,000 miles and also includes roadside assistance. The APR Plus warranty is similar to a factory limited powertrain warranty and has the same term limit as the original vehicle warranty. APR Plus is available through Volkswagen dealerships and can be financed when purchasing a vehicle. It can be used with all APR...bla bla bla ....
TSFI engines had that failure prone high pressure fuel pump. I think most guys replaced the whole thing or at least part of it when they tuned the mk6 R. The reason I would not buy the Mk6 R ( bought a 2013 GTI, it has been great. Water pump and intake manifold replaced for free.)
Dude, this was a great video! Thank you! Makes me wonder how my wife's 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro get 300k+ miles without any engine issues. And it was tuned + track time. Of course, we were meticulous with the oil changes.
Entertaining and informative... Par for the course with Pauly D. Recommendation for you Paul... Harbor Freight "Hardy" Nitrile 9 Mil (black) work gloves. Super durable and if you buy the size down from what you'd normally wear (I normally wore XL gloves but use the L sized gloves) you don't have all that excess glove material to contend with when you're trying to grab stuff. Because they're thicker than what you're using, they last a lot longer. I use them with different solvents and I can get 3-5 uses out of them before I need to grab a new pair.
Don't ever put a turbo on your good engine that came off of an engine that ate a bearing or had metal in it. Regardless of mileage. The turbo has just become a super effectively anti-seize manufacturing pump, that will pump forbidden glitter all in the new engine. Don't do it. Mileage honestly is less important. If it's got no shaft play, and it ain't smoking...use that SOB. As long as it ain't got glitter production capabilities.
Can you not clean or rebuild these turbos? Flush the lines, spray some carb cleaner through it, and blow it out with an air hose and it'd be fine. Even better, run it through an ultrasonic cleaner first or just take it apart. Obviously I wouldn't want a 240k mile turbo on a rebuilt engine but I don't see any reason to throw it away either if it's not actually broken.
@@mitchell9937 You can, but problem is the internals. It can marr the surfaces of the bearings, or stick in places that you just wouldn't ever be able to reach, and loosen itself overtime. Not being condescending, I mean this as a science project, buy a used/bad turbo and stick a boroscope up through the oil drain portion and have a look around. There are so many places to hide crud and metal that flushing alone will never get. An Ultrasonic cleaner might do the job. Problem is, you'd have to fully disassemble it, which is a big deal if you've never actually done it. You have to mark everything, including where the nut sits on the compressor so not to unbalance anything. Then let's say at this point okay, you did it, the turbo is 150% clean. You still have damaged thrust bearings from abrasive materials being circulated at high pressure, and damaged journal bearings that the shaft rides on as well, which WILL shorten life drastically. If you rebuild it, it'll need to be rebalanced as an assembly. Easier honestly just to buy a good used turbo that's not been contaminated and save yourself the trouble.
@@BasedEMT1776 I don't disagree. I'd buy a new turbo too. Even if it didn't have metal shavings in it, I'd be surprised if it was good to reinstall after 240k miles. I still wouldn't throw it away without even looking at it though. Maybe new turbos are completely different than the 20+ year old ones I'm used to, but it's not hard to take them apart and take proper measurements. I can buy a rebuild kit for $80 and rebuild mine in a weekend. Beats $600 for a new one, because I don't care about my time.
@@mitchell9937 Agreed. I come from the DSM world and despite what people may think about DSMs or Mitsubishi as a car company, their heavy industries build some of the most reliable and robust turbos around. I have zero problem using a 240k mile 14B from a 91 Eclipse GSX as long as it's not metal contaminated. If it has issues, I can rebuild it like you mentioned for like $80 just marking the nuts. To answer your question: new turbos and new technology in general suck. Everything these days is made with almost planned obsolescence in mind. (everything here being slightly exaggerated, but vast majority is no exaggeration).
Man I've 2003 XC90 at 327.000 kilometres, bought at 240k. It still runs fine, I did ask my shop to do good maintenance on injectors etc. It feels better than it did at 240k. Meanwhile My '09 passat variant's TSI engine was death at like 150k. I learned that less complicated engines live a lot more and costs much less. Even my old '99 Carisma GDI engine lasted more than TSI of Passat. First GDI engines ever
I have an 04 XC90. I bought at 115k miles and now it's at 174k. It's the 2.5t and It runs amazing. I've had two coils go bad and last time one went bad I replaced all the plugs as well. It does consume a bit of oil but no smoke and no stains on the garage floor. I love driving that thing...best 4grand I ever spent.
@@einfelder8262 "Better than Volvo" lmfao, go back to getting garbage from streets. There are millions kms on Volvos that goes on news every day, just search lmfao.
Thank you Paul for another great vid & thank you for addressing the crank walk/thrust bearings, the way these mk7&7.5 engines are holding up continues to impress me when i consider how much abuse they probably are getting across the board.
Thank you so much for making this video I love watching your videos and love that it is a mk7 GOLF R I just got me a 16 mk7 GOLF R and want to know as much as I can about it! Can’t wait for the rebuild! 🤘
I put myself through college in the 80's working on water cooled VWs. They were terrible back then and it seems they are even worse now. I'm so happy I never had to do this ever again.
This seems like the moral is also don’t fire the parts cannon: diagnose. If they found the burnt valve with a leak down test they would have saved all the money they spent on injectors and saved the engine.
About the broken exhaust valve, not sure about these but on older 1.8t models the exhaust valves must be replaced at 120.000miles or 200.000kms, if you don't want to go through that hassle you can replace them with inconel valves. The moment I saw the valve like that I thought to myself "could this cause the engine to fail?" after hearing your explanation made total sense. Love the content! Keep it up!
Lol these comments are hilarious with the bots ! I love the close up of Charles wooky eating for reference.Thank you Paul for doing this , because I get similar problems with my R , as far as the misfire , that seems to just hang around, I looked it up and it's an Achilles heal problem with the mark 7 gen , very common.Btw on a different note ,just came back from the most insane car event I've ever been to called Urofest in Pottstown, PA.The most insane awesome custom built vw's and Audi's I've ever seen ,every gen , every model that's ever been out , like looking in those vw custom magazines, but there had to be a thousand or more cars there.All the top brands were there , they put them in there own little stores, liqui moly, milltek , integrated engineering, fcp euro just to name a few .In any case you can see video of it on RUclips, its free to go or bring your car , it would be sick if you and the dap gang came down.
3:12 I've had this happen a couple times with my tools. The M12 drill goes in to party mode when one of the 3 secondary contacts on the battery doesn't make a good connection with the drill. It just happens with those batteries from time to time. The drill goes, "oh no, I can't read the thermal sensor on the battery! For safety reasons, I'm just not going to work." The Solution is to look inside the drill to see which contact it uses, and then gently bend the contact on the battery out just slightly with a small screwdriver or something. Then you should be good to go again.
Just stumbled across this through algorithm recommendation but dang what a great tear down video! Can’t say I’m much of a VW fan but was interesting seeing the technical design choices these more modern engines have. I’m most familiar with Honda K series and couldn’t help but compare them and have to say wow! Newer VW motors are definitely not something I’d think most home mechanics are going to really want to get into self servicing much
There is a bad ass Gen 4, GTI around the corner from me for sale. I am in VA. It's blue and black. Looks like it was done right. Not cut all up, very , very clean. Could be a Gen 5. I see it all the time on my way from work.
Last week, mine crankwalked at ONLY 26k miles ! DKM clutch. Thrust bearing cyl 2 in the pan. Always on liquimolly every 5k miles. What a nice 10k$ to put in that car !
The EA888 is known for a bad designed oil pump. It fails to supply enough pressure on idle, but just tad enough to not trip the oil pressure sensor. Disassemble the pump to see if it has exessive wear.
@@TassieLorenzothey are bulletproof but given maintenance is done religiously…water pump and carbon cleaning are the 2 main issues , which are not too bad .
Thanks you for all the great content! I've fixed many things on multiple vw/audi engines/cars thanks to you. Also If you are not gonna rebuild this same engine for this car can you make another video rebuilding this model? I haven't seen anyone rebuild or even fix an oil leak on the valve cover on this engine model.
Epic video mate! Found you through humble mechanic and your vids are equally awesome and educational. Youve got a new sub my man! BTW: never through turbo's away please😅 Theyre usefull as dummies for fitment in projects at the very least.
This was an awesome video. I like how you explained everything. I keep my 2016 Golf R Manual well maintained, because I drive the hell out it. 💯💪 10/16/2024 2014
18:15 Thrust bearing wear is a real thing, some engines effect more so than others. Every time you press the clutch you are putting a forward force on the crank
I think there's a pretty nice video series made by this one guy about swapping in a 2.5TFSI engine in a golf, he's called the humble mechanic, maybe you've heard of him.
Love this project. Hearing your commentary is very helpful and insightful while being funny. In your opinion could cause crankwalk in the tiny percentage of cars that it happens to? My guess is unfortunate worst-case physical tolerance stack ups
You can get the water pump belt off without taking the reverse thread bolt out. You've just got to turn the belt 90 degrees so that you can slide the thin part of the belt in between the washer part of the pulley. Someone had stripped out the reverse thread bolt on the balance shaft of my car so i had no choice but to get it out that way.
If you found bearing debris in the pan and the filter it will be in the turbo bearings , they won’t last long. I would agree as someone who is doing my own work I don’t need practice installing a turbo . I like the fact you are searching for the answer on the engine’s demise! But all of the oiled parts will be a NO for me.
I had a 2015 GTI in 2015 that I bought with 30,000km. It always seemed to have a misfire and an uneven idle intermittently. It was under warranty so in the 8 months I had it, the dealer had it for 4, just throwing parts at it and it was never fixed. We have no lemon laws in Canada so I finally convinced the dealer to buy it back but now I wonder after seeing this if it had a burnt valve. Either way I was glad to be rid of it and bought a brand new 2016 GTI which was great and I enjoyed for 5 years
Yep, meticulously maintained my 2014 mk7 gti, at 167000kms, timing chain guide broke, chain jumped, piston one broke, just finished rebuilding, aaaaand low oil pressure warning at warm idle only, about to replace the cambridge to see if it solves the problem, did throw a set of mk7 R 9.3: pistons in though
19.13 No, I think you got it wrong. The misfires (e.g. faulty plug or coil) will damage the valve. Unburned mixture will ignite when in contact with the hot exhaust gasses of the neighbour, the back thrown plasma will damage the surface and it leaks. etc etc. There is however no connection between the bearing damage and the valve damage.
Crazy to think that if the original owner had the misfire issue addressed properly then that engine would still be in perfect running condition. That whole thing looked essentially brand new minus the exterior. It's a shame that the avenues he chose were simply not the correct ones and it eventually destroyed the bottom end.
Well for a nearly 300,000 mile engine it's a quite serviceable lifespan before something of this nature occurs. I'd like to think that in any other situation the engine would be running perfectly still. It's very impressive to me how good everything still looked minus the bearings.
12:40 you can see from the clean spots on the cylinder head squish pad on the next cylinder that the bearings were wrecked on that cylinder as the piston has been hitting the head
The next crazy project that came to mind that you would be able to do is to take a VW Golf 7 2.0 TDI and do a swap with a 1.9 TDI engine from the VW Golf 4 and upgrade it, no one has ever done something like this
This is why I don’t send my car to any mechanic do it all myself, had mechanics tell me in the past timing chain when it wasn’t as a test and I new the issue, they always lied never found one genuine except one. But still do the majority of stuff.
Moral of the story: A 200 dollar borescope and an afternoon of engine disassembly could have diagnosed and remedied that burnt valve before the bearings had their Viking funeral.
Spun bearings in VW: typical. Burnt valve: Did it run too lean because of a clogged injector? Too aggressive tuning? I missed something in the video: the disassembly of the oil-pressure valve that controls the camshaft-angle actuator. There is a tiny spring in it, small like the spring of a ballpoint pen. This can fail, too.
Holy Shit! This is more stuff to take off than a 350 in a 67 Nova. This engine is much bigger than I thought. I just want to know how you put 246,000 miles on a MK7? I have a 2019 GTI and I only have 28,000 on it. It still has a year and a half of warranty left on it.
"It wouldn't be the first shaft I've played with, today." Man's first words of wisdom. 👌
Instant sub
I can't think of a better start to the day than twenty minutes of Pauls glowing enthusiasm.
Paul teardown option.
💯
Gotta know if he ships to Europe 🥴
Do you know a trafficker? @@jonytube
The Paul Uninstall option
really appreciate your videos guys.. and i also like the humor... and I am about to get my 3rd GTI.. 2022 GTI SE... after I totalled my 16 GTI after hitting a wheel that flew into my lane at 70mph. Radiator destroyed, Transmission destroyed, oil pan destroyed, internal frame damage, exhaust mangled and pulled out of the engine, gas tank destroyed. All fluids leaking out at the same time, no fire, family safe. The GTI back wheels went airborne, landed at a 45 degree angle, was able to recover, pull over, with no fire.
Thank God for my GTI, a good handling car when it really counted!
The Humble mechanic eating a sandwich is a lot funnier then it should be 😂
I coulda sworn that was a Chipotle burrito lol
@@mrjkstarklooking back it does look like a burrito😅
It is indeed a Chipotle burrito and we also love this clip.
That is that guy? Lol. I've seen him before but it's been awhile
weird youtuber simps. go figure
For 240k miles, that engine was very clean inside. The owner definitely took good care of it, notwithstanding the misfire. Oil analysis would have shown the connecting rod bearings were failing long before the bearing spun.
8:20 “you don’t want to try and reuse this mother father”😂😂😂
Never knew VW used cracked rods in their engines. Learned something new today, thanks paul
Pretty sure they always have
Thought you said “crack” rods. 😂
@@aygwmI know mk3 and older doesn't, not sure about Mk4s, must be like a mk5 or 6 thing and newer.
Were BMW pioneers in this in the late 1980s?
My Mk 6 Golf R had a catastrophic failure at 84K miles of the tappet on the fuel pump piston (not uncommon, I learned), broken pieces of which were flung around inside and actually broke through the aluminum housings. It was impressive. Taking apart the top of the engine, I discovered several bolts had been installed with blue LocTite, which caused them to become stripped or break off in the head and block as I attempted removal. Not fun. The previous owner had it Stage 2 tuned with several APR kit parts, which I knew and definitely enjoyed the extra ponies, but the installer evidently thought LocTite was a good idea. I thoroughly enjoy your channel and content. Thanks for doing it!
Catastrophic failure caused by APR tune. That's why VW won't warranty engine failure caused by aftermarket mods. Extra pressure from the APR fuel pump.
@@einfelder8262
Figured I'd do a little copypasta from the google thing.
APR Plus, a performance engine software for new Volkswagen vehicles, comes with a limited powertrain warranty. The warranty is valid for five years or 60,000 miles and also includes roadside assistance. The APR Plus warranty is similar to a factory limited powertrain warranty and has the same term limit as the original vehicle warranty.
APR Plus is available through Volkswagen dealerships and can be financed when purchasing a vehicle. It can be used with all APR...bla bla bla ....
TSFI engines had that failure prone high pressure fuel pump. I think most guys replaced the whole thing or at least part of it when they tuned the mk6 R.
The reason I would not buy the Mk6 R ( bought a 2013 GTI, it has been great. Water pump and intake manifold replaced for free.)
These videos bring me much joy. The susness never gets old
I want daily ShopDAP videos 😂
I'm definitely looking forward to the engine build
Dude, this was a great video! Thank you! Makes me wonder how my wife's 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro get 300k+ miles without any engine issues. And it was tuned + track time. Of course, we were meticulous with the oil changes.
My A4 2010 S-line 6MT was using oil badly at 175,000 kms. I wish I hadn’t followed the 15,000 km oil service intervals recommended by Audi. 🥲
Entertaining and informative... Par for the course with Pauly D.
Recommendation for you Paul... Harbor Freight "Hardy" Nitrile 9 Mil (black) work gloves. Super durable and if you buy the size down from what you'd normally wear (I normally wore XL gloves but use the L sized gloves) you don't have all that excess glove material to contend with when you're trying to grab stuff. Because they're thicker than what you're using, they last a lot longer. I use them with different solvents and I can get 3-5 uses out of them before I need to grab a new pair.
Thanks for the recommendation. I have some Nitrile gloves for when I need them, but I hate nitrile bc its not stretchy.
This video is a great reminder of the importance of regular maintenance and addressing engine problems promptly. Keep us updated.
Injector -> misfire -> lean -> knock
Paul and Charles is the best bromance in the car scene for me 😂 you guys are so funny and helpful, thank you! ❤
Paul: Don’t use a 200k turbo
Me: Your not the
boss of me.
The EA888.3 is cool and all but you know what’s better than one DAZA swapped Golf? TWO DAZA swapped Golfs…
Paul should do the budget version and swap a 2.5 5cyl from a base trim mk6 and then put a turbo on it
@@Enzo187How much bottom end would need to be "built"? Rods?
You know what's better than a DAZA golf? A vr6 golf (i didn't say faster I said better 😂)
Do you have a Charles install option. I couldn't find it on the website
Coming soon….
Don't ever put a turbo on your good engine that came off of an engine that ate a bearing or had metal in it. Regardless of mileage. The turbo has just become a super effectively anti-seize manufacturing pump, that will pump forbidden glitter all in the new engine. Don't do it.
Mileage honestly is less important. If it's got no shaft play, and it ain't smoking...use that SOB. As long as it ain't got glitter production capabilities.
Can you not clean or rebuild these turbos? Flush the lines, spray some carb cleaner through it, and blow it out with an air hose and it'd be fine. Even better, run it through an ultrasonic cleaner first or just take it apart. Obviously I wouldn't want a 240k mile turbo on a rebuilt engine but I don't see any reason to throw it away either if it's not actually broken.
@@mitchell9937 You can, but problem is the internals. It can marr the surfaces of the bearings, or stick in places that you just wouldn't ever be able to reach, and loosen itself overtime. Not being condescending, I mean this as a science project, buy a used/bad turbo and stick a boroscope up through the oil drain portion and have a look around. There are so many places to hide crud and metal that flushing alone will never get.
An Ultrasonic cleaner might do the job. Problem is, you'd have to fully disassemble it, which is a big deal if you've never actually done it. You have to mark everything, including where the nut sits on the compressor so not to unbalance anything.
Then let's say at this point okay, you did it, the turbo is 150% clean. You still have damaged thrust bearings from abrasive materials being circulated at high pressure, and damaged journal bearings that the shaft rides on as well, which WILL shorten life drastically. If you rebuild it, it'll need to be rebalanced as an assembly.
Easier honestly just to buy a good used turbo that's not been contaminated and save yourself the trouble.
@@BasedEMT1776 I don't disagree. I'd buy a new turbo too. Even if it didn't have metal shavings in it, I'd be surprised if it was good to reinstall after 240k miles. I still wouldn't throw it away without even looking at it though.
Maybe new turbos are completely different than the 20+ year old ones I'm used to, but it's not hard to take them apart and take proper measurements. I can buy a rebuild kit for $80 and rebuild mine in a weekend. Beats $600 for a new one, because I don't care about my time.
@@mitchell9937 Agreed. I come from the DSM world and despite what people may think about DSMs or Mitsubishi as a car company, their heavy industries build some of the most reliable and robust turbos around. I have zero problem using a 240k mile 14B from a 91 Eclipse GSX as long as it's not metal contaminated. If it has issues, I can rebuild it like you mentioned for like $80 just marking the nuts.
To answer your question: new turbos and new technology in general suck. Everything these days is made with almost planned obsolescence in mind. (everything here being slightly exaggerated, but vast majority is no exaggeration).
Man I've 2003 XC90 at 327.000 kilometres, bought at 240k. It still runs fine, I did ask my shop to do good maintenance on injectors etc. It feels better than it did at 240k.
Meanwhile My '09 passat variant's TSI engine was death at like 150k. I learned that less complicated engines live a lot more and costs much less.
Even my old '99 Carisma GDI engine lasted more than TSI of Passat. First GDI engines ever
I have an 04 XC90. I bought at 115k miles and now it's at 174k. It's the 2.5t and It runs amazing. I've had two coils go bad and last time one went bad I replaced all the plugs as well. It does consume a bit of oil but no smoke and no stains on the garage floor. I love driving that thing...best 4grand I ever spent.
I have an Isuzu 2.6 engine at 700,000ks. Running perfectly. Better than any Volvo engine. Comparisons like this are ridiculous, however.
@@einfelder8262 "Better than Volvo" lmfao, go back to getting garbage from streets. There are millions kms on Volvos that goes on news every day, just search lmfao.
@@einfelder8262 your comment is "ridiculous"
@@GhostYT_lat It's the same as your ridiculous post, you muppet.
I saw the f&f jetta build in Pottstown pa today along with Charles’ golf Rs! Nice to see them in person, very nice jobs
Thank you Paul for another great vid & thank you for addressing the crank walk/thrust bearings, the way these mk7&7.5 engines are holding up continues to impress me when i consider how much abuse they probably are getting across the board.
Agreed the GEN3 engine has been the best engine in a long time.
as always the best content out there for vw owners
Thank you so much for making this video I love watching your videos and love that it is a mk7 GOLF R I just got me a 16 mk7 GOLF R and want to know as much as I can about it! Can’t wait for the rebuild! 🤘
I put myself through college in the 80's working on water cooled VWs. They were terrible back then and it seems they are even worse now. I'm so happy I never had to do this ever again.
The 80s VW's are good engines. This new sh*t on the other hand ........
@@paulwhite7475 Those wafer valve spacers.
This seems like the moral is also don’t fire the parts cannon: diagnose. If they found the burnt valve with a leak down test they would have saved all the money they spent on injectors and saved the engine.
This was a really great episode. thanks guys!!
205k miles on my 2016 Passat 1.8t.. Stock turbo, water pump, and timing.. 5K OCI.. Really hope I can reach 250k miles!
About the broken exhaust valve, not sure about these but on older 1.8t models the exhaust valves must be replaced at 120.000miles or 200.000kms, if you don't want to go through that hassle you can replace them with inconel valves. The moment I saw the valve like that I thought to myself "could this cause the engine to fail?" after hearing your explanation made total sense. Love the content! Keep it up!
Lol these comments are hilarious with the bots ! I love the close up of Charles wooky eating for reference.Thank you Paul for doing this , because I get similar problems with my R , as far as the misfire , that seems to just hang around, I looked it up and it's an Achilles heal problem with the mark 7 gen , very common.Btw on a different note ,just came back from the most insane car event I've ever been to called Urofest in Pottstown, PA.The most insane awesome custom built vw's and Audi's I've ever seen ,every gen , every model that's ever been out , like looking in those vw custom magazines, but there had to be a thousand or more cars there.All the top brands were there , they put them in there own little stores, liqui moly, milltek , integrated engineering, fcp euro just to name a few .In any case you can see video of it on RUclips, its free to go or bring your car , it would be sick if you and the dap gang came down.
Yeah, that pulley to the timing system is not a spline, it's a hirth joint.
keeps talking about how great this blown up engine looks lol
3.6 swap it. 4 < 5 < 6, show Humble Mechanic who's the boss.
3:12 I've had this happen a couple times with my tools. The M12 drill goes in to party mode when one of the 3 secondary contacts on the battery doesn't make a good connection with the drill. It just happens with those batteries from time to time. The drill goes, "oh no, I can't read the thermal sensor on the battery! For safety reasons, I'm just not going to work." The Solution is to look inside the drill to see which contact it uses, and then gently bend the contact on the battery out just slightly with a small screwdriver or something. Then you should be good to go again.
This. Or the clips on the battery/drill are worn and its not sitting properly anymore.
So THATS what it means. Couldn't find any info on it. Happened on new batteries too. Gets annoying sometimes
Great tear down video with explaining what to look for, can wait for the follow up video.
Just stumbled across this through algorithm recommendation but dang what a great tear down video! Can’t say I’m much of a VW fan but was interesting seeing the technical design choices these more modern engines have. I’m most familiar with Honda K series and couldn’t help but compare them and have to say wow! Newer VW motors are definitely not something I’d think most home mechanics are going to really want to get into self servicing much
Don't forget to subscribe. They do awesome projects and swaps and Pauls humor is awesome. 😅
There is a bad ass Gen 4, GTI around the corner from me for sale. I am in VA. It's blue and black. Looks like it was done right. Not cut all up, very , very clean. Could be a Gen 5. I see it all the time on my way from work.
Last week, mine crankwalked at ONLY 26k miles ! DKM clutch. Thrust bearing cyl 2 in the pan. Always on liquimolly every 5k miles. What a nice 10k$ to put in that car !
Twin disk I’m guessing? The DKM singles are solid but it’s way more common on twin disk DKM setups.
Saw you guys at Loe show, good to finally meet you two. Super nice guys
The EA888 is known for a bad designed oil pump. It fails to supply enough pressure on idle, but just tad enough to not trip the oil pressure sensor. Disassemble the pump to see if it has exessive wear.
Wow! I though the EA888 was considered bulletproof.
Its sadly not, thats the bad thing about modern german engines. Bulletproof engines are rare
The gen 3 engine is a very solid engine.
@@TassieLorenzothey are bulletproof but given maintenance is done religiously…water pump and carbon cleaning are the 2 main issues , which are not too bad .
Epic video man. Crazy big balls on the DME tinkering!
Thanks you for all the great content! I've fixed many things on multiple vw/audi engines/cars thanks to you.
Also If you are not gonna rebuild this same engine for this car can you make another video rebuilding this model? I haven't seen anyone rebuild or even fix an oil leak on the valve cover on this engine model.
Excited to see the build happen. I’m looking to build my gli’s motor soon
Epic video mate! Found you through humble mechanic and your vids are equally awesome and educational. Youve got a new sub my man!
BTW: never through turbo's away please😅 Theyre usefull as dummies for fitment in projects at the very least.
It was so nice to meet you at Loe Show!
Always very interesting to see an engine teardown. Thank you Paul 👍
This was an awesome video. I like how you explained everything. I keep my 2016 Golf R Manual well maintained, because I drive the hell out it. 💯💪 10/16/2024 2014
This couldnt have come at a better time. I just got a blown engine to build for my Audi TT I most likely will just copy you 😅
5:34 While it certainly isn't fun I've definitely replaced plenty of those belts without taking the pulley off the shaft
Hi Paul. During the engine build I would love for you highlight the similarities and differences between MK6 and MK7 GTI engines.
Informative and entertaining, can't wait for the rebuild
A little comforting to see all the miles and no crank walk.
With that kind of oil change intervals there probably shouldn't be any more at twice the mileage!
18:15 Thrust bearing wear is a real thing, some engines effect more so than others. Every time you press the clutch you are putting a forward force on the crank
In my free time I enjoy to get intoxicated and listen to Paul rant about a used is38
3:01 PAUSE! in all seriousness love the videos congrats on 400k subs!
Hahaha I was like, "Oh my.....Paul!"
I think there's a pretty nice video series made by this one guy about swapping in a 2.5TFSI engine in a golf, he's called the humble mechanic, maybe you've heard of him.
Love this project. Hearing your commentary is very helpful and insightful while being funny.
In your opinion could cause crankwalk in the tiny percentage of cars that it happens to? My guess is unfortunate worst-case physical tolerance stack ups
Yeeeaaahhhhh... they are totally vr6t swapping this for sure
10:00 That's the incorrect order to remove the valve cover bolts😂 I don't always do the right order either.
What if you do the left order?
I have a stage 2 Golf r mk7, so im looking forward to this build, as im thinking of going stage 3
Damn the bots comment fast...........
At least they're somewhat pleasant comments 🤷♂️
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 fair
no we don't
You can get the water pump belt off without taking the reverse thread bolt out. You've just got to turn the belt 90 degrees so that you can slide the thin part of the belt in between the washer part of the pulley. Someone had stripped out the reverse thread bolt on the balance shaft of my car so i had no choice but to get it out that way.
Drove on a idle misfire fault for a year, fixed it. Sometimes I get a code for that same cylinder. Probably scraped my piston rings🥲
Cylinders needs to be pretty badly scored to give misfire codes imo. I bet more of a valve sealing issue.. Valve seat or the valve itself.
We need more of these vids!
Nice production as always. Internet gossip with aftermarket clutch replacement..
Amazing work
DDKA Swap!! Do it for the people and the wookies!
If you found bearing debris in the pan and the filter it will be in the turbo bearings , they won’t last long. I would agree as someone who is doing my own work I don’t need practice installing a turbo . I like the fact you are searching for the answer on the engine’s demise! But all of the oiled parts will be a NO for me.
I had a 2015 GTI in 2015 that I bought with 30,000km. It always seemed to have a misfire and an uneven idle intermittently. It was under warranty so in the 8 months I had it, the dealer had it for 4, just throwing parts at it and it was never fixed. We have no lemon laws in Canada so I finally convinced the dealer to buy it back but now I wonder after seeing this if it had a burnt valve. Either way I was glad to be rid of it and bought a brand new 2016 GTI which was great and I enjoyed for 5 years
I do enjoy his videos. We need more b8.5 s5 content
Waiting forward for the next video bro.
The double entendres are strong with Deutsche!
"This is what happens when you are a golf r owner and meticulously maintain your car" proceeds to show blown engine 😂
"Golf Rrrrr mateys walk this plank outta here" 🏴☠️🏴☠️🦜
Yep, meticulously maintained my 2014 mk7 gti, at 167000kms, timing chain guide broke, chain jumped, piston one broke, just finished rebuilding, aaaaand low oil pressure warning at warm idle only, about to replace the cambridge to see if it solves the problem, did throw a set of mk7 R 9.3: pistons in though
19.13 No, I think you got it wrong. The misfires (e.g. faulty plug or coil) will damage the valve. Unburned mixture will ignite when in contact with the hot exhaust gasses of the neighbour, the back thrown plasma will damage the surface and it leaks. etc etc. There is however no connection between the bearing damage and the valve damage.
Love the content and learning more about the MK7 platform! Keep it up!
Cool, can't wait for build video 💆
Great job Paul I can’t wait to 👀👀👀 the rebuilt engine, how much would you sell it for after?
Great content, Paul
Crazy to think that if the original owner had the misfire issue addressed properly then that engine would still be in perfect running condition. That whole thing looked essentially brand new minus the exterior. It's a shame that the avenues he chose were simply not the correct ones and it eventually destroyed the bottom end.
Hard to know if that’s really what happened. It’s speculation at best.
Well for a nearly 300,000 mile engine it's a quite serviceable lifespan before something of this nature occurs. I'd like to think that in any other situation the engine would be running perfectly still. It's very impressive to me how good everything still looked minus the bearings.
it would be cool to kinda rebuild this engine and just see how much more it can go before it really blows up. Could be quite interesting.
Lmao Charles taking strays hahaha... Just came over from his channel lol
12:40 you can see from the clean spots on the cylinder head squish pad on the next cylinder that the bearings were wrecked on that cylinder as the piston has been hitting the head
The next crazy project that came to mind that you would be able to do is to take a VW Golf 7 2.0 TDI and do a swap with a 1.9 TDI engine from the VW Golf 4 and upgrade it, no one has ever done something like this
I feel like the worse issue with the turbo is that it probably had a bunch of bearing material in the oil
can get it rebuilt
This is why I don’t send my car to any mechanic do it all myself, had mechanics tell me in the past timing chain when it wasn’t as a test and I new the issue, they always lied never found one genuine except one. But still do the majority of stuff.
Charles carbo loading, getting ready for a colab marathon apparently
3:20 another quality Milwaukee product!! Milwaukee guys are indenial when u point out their garbage tools 😂
So, how do you prevent all this or most of this mess? With a proper mantainment? Amazing content by the way
man, I really wish DAP would start telling us where to buy these parts...
Moral of the story:
A 200 dollar borescope and an afternoon of engine disassembly could have diagnosed and remedied that burnt valve before the bearings had their Viking funeral.
That looks exactly like the old MK7 R I was looking at buying, that had a misfire (which is why I didn't buy it) haha.
Spun bearings in VW: typical.
Burnt valve: Did it run too lean because of a clogged injector? Too aggressive tuning?
I missed something in the video: the disassembly of the oil-pressure valve that controls the camshaft-angle actuator. There is a tiny spring in it, small like the spring of a ballpoint pen. This can fail, too.
As the saying goes, "Parts is parts!"
Watching this right after Formula One, ahh. Today’s a good day.
Really that valve causes that? I doubt it, how was the oil pressure?
Holy Shit! This is more stuff to take off than a 350 in a 67 Nova. This engine is much bigger than I thought. I just want to know how you put 246,000 miles on a MK7? I have a 2019 GTI and I only have 28,000 on it. It still has a year and a half of warranty left on it.
247000 miles, impressive.