I work for a tire shop. If you want better mileage, running max pressure will help he is right. But the tire pressure you SHOULD run depends on the weight of the vehicle. Running high pressure all the time will wear out the center of the tread faster than the edges, and you'll burn through tires much faster. Just fair warning. Great video though!
Got the v6 (4x4 CC) for a reason..24.5mpg on a 500 mile road trip. Stock everything. Maintained 75mph on the freeway, very little passing. Proper tire inflation!! 39psi front and rear. 🙌🏻
@@jeffsnider7842 since I posted this I got a hemi again. Getting probably 20MPG on the same trip, but I definitely won’t tell someone to run from the v6. Starting to make my first house mine, lots more towing a hauling, the v6 was working way too hard. Of course, I bought literally 3 days before gas prices sky rocketed. Live and learn, I guess lol
Yeah I bought a brand new 2011 Ram for the same reason... Had we looked at the window stickers we would of seen that the 5.7 hemi gets better fuel economy than the V6 does. The truck is too big and too heavy for a V6, causing it to have to work much harder than the V8s, which in turn gives it close to equal, but slightly worse fuel economy than the V8... I was so pissed when I realized it myself... Now I have one with the 4.7 flex fuel V8 (never tried running flex fuel yet) but it does great and gets better mpg than either the hemi or the V6
Keeping your speed/rpm down is important for maximum fuel mileage. The rule used to be 55 mph was most efficient, but that was back in the 70's. I know that if I cruise at around 1500 rpm in top gear (8 speed trans), my 2016 Ram will get around 23 mpg on the highway. That's just under 70 mph on flat ground, which is great. I think I read every 5 mph above 65 is -1 mpg, but that won't be true on every vehicle.
Great info! Yeah these 8 speeds definitely help with keeping the RPM low and not raising it significantly when a small hill approaches like the older 6 or 5 speed trucks 👍
BoostedMotorsports number of gears have nothing to do with holding gear on a hill. Rear end ratio is where that comes in. If anything, an 8 speed is going to have to drop gears more so than a trans with fewer gears
I get 4MPG more by keeping the radio tuned away from RAP music. Another saving of 2.5 MPG by not having my forearms tattooed. I can save 1.75 MPG by driving sober and a bonus of 3 MPG saved by avoiding meth, crack and weed!
Thanks for the tips. I usually run my tires at the pressure that the recommended door frame and have achieved some pretty good MPG. I to HAD a 2014 RAM 1500 similar to yours, but I traded it in for a 2019 RAM 1500 with the Black Package about 10 days ago. Still breaking it in, only have 600 miles on it.
Ah man I'm jealous Don! As I expected the new 5th gen RAM looks will grow on everyone and I'm already in love with that new look. I'm trying to cover as much content as possible with this 4th gen before I start doing the same with the 5th gen 2019+ trucks but I think people will get mad if I get rid of this 4th gen lol
Believe it or not, I got rid of it because of two things. I kept getting a P520 code, oil pressure switch, being that the first time this happened was at 45K then at 50k I was a little weary about this at such a low mileage, the other was the radio, yes the radio! People dont realize that the radio isn't just a radio anymore, they control a whole lot more behind the scene and can lead to some big issues down the road. This is a known issue that FCA has been having with this radio. It took FCA 4 months to replace the radio, granted they took care of it post warranty which was great customer service. But after a year I started having the same issue, no volume control, no ac control, no navigation, no back up camera, no Bluetooth/phone function and so on. The last update also failed. I really like my old Ram so I bought another. Have a good one, hope your not close to any of the fires in SoCal, I'm very close to the "Holy" fire so I'm trying to keep the ashes off of the new Black Pearl finish on my truck.
I got an extra 1.2mpg (long distance highway average @ 80mph cruise control w ac on) from installing the rear 2" drop shackles. I think it pulled the tailgate down just enough out of the wind. 2004 5.7. Also make damn sure your throttle body is clean it will get crazy dirty and rob abt 2mpg. 240k miles and I get plenty of blow by, abt a qt per 3k miles. Air oil separator going on next. Currently 20.5 mpg hwy average @80mph
The max psi stamped on the tire is only for the max weight specified, and that is for each tire. Even with max payload you won’t achieve this much weight on the tires. It will just ride rough and wear out the center as he said. They put in a safety factor for weight to eliminate the possibility of something like the Ford Explorer/Firestone thing from happening again. I go somewhere in between the door sticker and the max. The door sticker is just a safe recommendation covering all seasons and many regions, extreme cold and heat for a balance of not only mileage, but safety as far as grip and not overheating the tire due to under inflated tires running hotter and blowing up more frequently.
Tires have to be aired up to the specific load of the vehicle (noted in the door jamb per wheel). Different load range tires require different amount of air per load.. Passenger tires (32/44 psi max rated) carry more weight per PSI than say E-rated (90psi) tires at the exact same PSI. Its very important to get the right Load to pressure balance to reduce rolling resistance and increase load carrying capacity without over heating the tire (over heating can give you a bad day). A truck that rolled out with P-metric tires like in the video may only need 37psi of the 44 max rating to properly carry its load, be properly inflated, and have a good contact patch. A lot of people would go to an E-rated tire when replacing the stock P-metric ones. If that person then ran the same 37PSI in the new tires they would be under aired and carry less weight than the stock tires. Some go to E-rated for many reasons the extra load cap,stiffer more durable sidewalls, the surety of tongue weight when trailering, 5/32 or more extra tread depth for the exact same size tire, and other reasons. On a truck like the one in the video he may go to a E rated and need to run 50-60psi out of a possible max 90psi and air the rear up to 80-90 only when trailering (say pulling a car on a trailer). If you would like to loaf around in some good data/charts for pressure to load ratings of tires by size go to this website and have a look around. You don't have to take my word for it or the loser in the videos under educated word on it you can go here and see for yourself how it is really done. www.tirepressure.com
Also a good rule of thumb when adjusting air for a particular application is to put the PSI the chart calls COLD TIRE PSI then drive it about 30miles pull over and check the HOT TIRE pressure if the pressure rises more than 5psi the pressure is to low (over heating the tire... it goes together with heat and it will come apart with heat under pressure) adjust it and do the test again until the test keeps you in the 5psi pressure rise margin. This PSI your at now is your low point from there on (unless your airing down for off-road use) this rule is fixed and proven. This is the best way to get the softest ride and safest low pressure point.
Sorry if someone already mentioned this. If you're going to run tire pressure and max, air up when the weather and tires are hot. Tire pressure will increase as the tires warm up.
dude im not gonna lie you provide a lot of great knowledge for trucks to keep people from doing stupid stuff to their vehicles and do positive things to make you truck run better and more efficient thanks man im from southern California myself and i did your channel
Ram 1500 stock 5.7 hemi, 8 speed, 89 octane, crew cab, short bed I went driving around at night trying to see how fuel efficient i can be on the highway & country roads and my highway average, according to the dash, was anywhere from 32 to 48 mpg with the mds on. I ended up with a combined average of 22.6 mpg when i got done 4 hours later, starting from 17.5 mpg the average I got from my regular commute to work. When i had my 3.6 pentastar, under the same conditions I can push the combined average to 27 mpg from 22.1 regular commute to work.
Tires have to be aired up to the specific load of the vehicle (noted in the door jamb per wheel). Different load range tires require different amount of air per load.. Passenger tires (32/44 psi max rated) carry more weight per PSI than say E-rated (90psi) tires at the exact same PSI. Its very important to get the right Load to pressure balance to reduce rolling resistance and increase load carrying capacity without over heating the tire (over heating can give you a bad day). A truck that rolled out with P-metric tires like in the video may only need 37psi of the 44 max rating to properly carry its load, be properly inflated, and have a good contact patch. A lot of people would go to an E-rated tire when replacing the stock P-metric ones. If that person then ran the same 37PSI in the new tires they would be under aired and carry less weight than the stock tires. Some go to E-rated for many reasons the extra load cap, stiffer more durable sidewalls, the surety of tongue weight when trailering, 5/32 or more extra tread depth for the exact same size tire, and other reasons. On a truck like the one in the video he may go to a E rated and need to run 50-60psi out of a possible max 90psi and air the rear up to 80-90 only when trailering (say pulling a car on a trailer). If you would like to loaf around in some good data/charts for pressure to load ratings of tires by size go to this website and have a look around. You don't have to take my word for it or the loser in the videos under educated word on it you can go here and see for yourself how it is really done. www.tirepressure.com
Also a good rule of thumb when adjusting air for a particular application is to put the PSI the chart calls COLD TIRE PSI then drive it about 30miles pull over and check the HOT TIRE pressure if the pressure rises more than 5psi the pressure is to low (over heating the tire... it goes together with heat and it will come apart with heat under pressure) adjust it and do the test again until the test keeps you in the 5psi pressure rise margin. This PSI your at now is your low point from there on (unless your airing down for off-road use) this rule is fixed and proven. This is the best way to get the softest ride and safest low pressure point. best fuel mileage will be slightly above that pressure. This is why huge haulers like concrete trucks have have tires plumbed to air tanks so they can adjust for load, traction, and fuel efficiency on the fly. Sad I cannot link the article this info came from but it was none the less intricate and spectacular source of information that is clearly lost on newer generations. Be Safe out there fellas! Knock the rust off your tire thumper daily and keep the dirty off your fuel gauge stick!
Saving a couple of dollars in gas doesn’t help when you have to spend $600 every year replacing tires. Over inflating your tire does not save money. It also reduces your contact patch, making that big, heavy truck harder to stop in a pinch. Check your tires regularly and keep them inflated for optimal tire wear. That’s going t give you the best happy medium between fuel economy and tire longevity. I have a 2010 RAM and the door sticker has it at 40 psi, which rounds them out. Here in the Florida heat, I achieve even tire wear at 37 psi.
Cool. Running those high pressures can compromise safety since tires will not perform as intended. Also, this makes is very easy for tire to exceed max psi and fail.
All great points and I do them all another great video!! Use Amsoil Signature Series and filter since new great stuff once a year oil change for myself.
When I had my 2011 f150 with the 4.6 v8 I was getting around 28 mpgs. That’s mainly highway driving going 65mph with cruise control on. Modifications were k&n air filter, borla atak exhaust, 2in level and lift kit, and swapped the stock tires with some Michelin’s. Oh and I only used ethanol free gas.
I got the reverse leds bulbs an you said they even look better in person, you were not kidding,thanks for all the great information. Still think you need to be on Power Block or something
Thanks for the support brother! I'm having fun making these videos and as long as people enjoy them thats all that matter! All I ask is you share any videos you find helpful on facebook or wherever we can spread the word! Have a great weekend! 🤘🤘🤘
Nice video John! My friend has the same truck as me but he has it leveled and running A/T tires. I'm averaging 10.9 liters per 100kms (hwy) and he is averaging 15 liter per 100kms (hwy) I think I'm good with the tires and ride height lol. Keep the videos coming man!
Thanks Jason! Yeah I'm just as guilty as the next guy with modding these trucks but after putting a HUGE 8" lift and 35s on my 2009 RAM 1500 HEMI and hating the way it drove and the fuel mileage I ended up selling it and vowed not to do that again to a gas truck lol
It also hinges on what gear you have in the rear end. I actually pulled 26.2 mpg with the 3.21 gear. Best I could pull so far with the 3.92 gear is 20.4 mpg on the highway.
Boosted!!! Just got me an 18 Ram Night Edition 4x4 and definitely look forward to adding some more power to it. Stoked i found your channel a while back im suscribed and look forward to all old and new content. Keep em coming man!!!!
imaxx21 I did lol got the plates, glove box, reverse and cargo haven't done the map or dome since they ain't bulbs but I watched the video of how he did it.
I just got a 2018 Ram Sport Night Edition and just ordered the same side steps he put on in another video, the C6s LED Fogs, and looking to get better low beams but hesitant to drill my dust caps for HID..
One important thing to mention, specially for us living in the northern zones with snow, it is driving on 2WD as much as possible. Driving on 4WD Auto, my fuel consumption increases by 30% in the city.
I prefer to drive on 4wd all time. It is really dangerous on 2wd. Behavior of the truck is completely different. I prefer safety over saving money on gas.
Beowulf Grendel max tire pressure should have the exact opposite effect. It rounds out the tire, reducing the contact patch with the pavement and, therefore, your grip.
Speaking from experience I used to fill my minivan tires up to their maximum tire pressure. My brakes were not stopping the car right after I replaced them with new brakes. That’s when I learned to air according to factory pressure. My brakes worked a lot better. The reason is factory pressure leaves enough surface area on the road which allows the car good traction. Not as much of a concern on dirt roads but vital important on pavement. For the concern of every one on the road. Please to not ignore factory pressure just for fuel economy. Fuel economy means nothing to those who die in an accident from simple mistakes.
Miguel Librero I get 17 mpg on a 2000 gmc 1500 lifted 3in on 33x12.50x20 but i have cold air intake and tuner and exhaust with a x pipe geared different 4:10 gears
Hey dude I didn’t want to bring one thing to notice for your video that the max tire PSI on the tire is specifically for the rubber if you want to find the max or best psi for your car it’s going to be on the inside of the door jam and it will tell you what the max PSI or best psi is for that particular vehicle as the other one is basically just telling you how much is safe to run in that actual tire
I get 22.5 mpg on the highway with my ford F-150 5.0 engine. If I turn on my air conditioner I lose 5.0 mpg. I run highway tires at 38psi. Any added weight you have in the bed or cab will effect mpg also.
I put on some LT(E rated 10 ply) A/T tires and added 1.5” spacers all around and lost about 100km on my range, sitting at 19.5l/100km from 13-15l/100km…
Air raide throttle body riser, headers, large solar panel, K&N air filter, Lucas injection cleaner, removed the pump that pumps air into my exhuast, Air pressure to 38 psi on tires. I am at about 1000+ km on a 110 liter fill with my 88 chev extended cab long box 350 motor virtually all highway and very conservative driving
Max psi on the sidewall is just that! Over that max and the tire could fail! So, fill to the max tire pressure in the morning and have tire failure in the afternoon! Follow the cold psi sticker on the door jamb. The tire pressure will increase as you drive through out the day and be safely below the MAX psi.
A few more tips from me, your neighborhood friendly average joe. Don’t drive aggressively go with the flow or be low, Speedy Mc lead foot. Don’t idle for along time. Weekends, drink at home don’t go to your favorite watering hole. Consider a 6 as a posed to an 8. Check your rear brakes if you have drums, those cylinders. if the rubber parts are torn or not calibrated will add resistance.
I thought you were gonna mention Rear diffusers. BTW BoostedMotorsports you look exactly like my friend Steve Princivali, he's a meteorologist I worked with a long time ago.
I got 32.6 inch aggressive wrangler tires on my truck and I get 15-16mpg on my 2004 5.4 f150. I’ve always had 15-16mpg even with stock 32.1 inch tires.
I know people tend to do this a lot, especially if they're in a comfy vehicle, but don't idle in it in the parking lot for 15-30 minutes at a time with the AC blasting. When I had to let the air out of my cooling system in my Civic, I had to idle it for like an hour or two. I think my car burns like 1 gallon of gas per hour just idling, and that's a Civic.
My new body 2020 RAM 1500 5.7L Hemi has a wind tunnel designed front end, cylinder deactivation, regenerative eTorque, air dam that lowers at speed, auto grill louvers, swept back non-towing mirrors, cab and tailgate spoilers, venturi roof design, and smoothed cab/bed junction. Gas mileage beats my old F-150 3.5L ecoboost. I run at 40 psi. Only thing that might help is power folding the mirrors at highway speeds, but not as safe and the stock mirrors seem very aerodynamic already. And could that get you a traffic ticket citation?
I need this more than all y’all I was getting 5mpg in my old truck I took off the tailgate and I’m getting 8 now but I’m still trying to get more out of it it’s a 1986 Dodge D250 carbureted and it helps to keep your foot out of it but I’m 17 good luck with that but fr I need better gas
I have a 09 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 big horn bone stock with 10K tow package If I put synthetic oil in it I get crappy gas mileage when I go back to cheap spec oil for my truck I get much better. What’s the deal In town I only get 8-10 mpg highway 18 mpg Any ideas
i am happy with truck, 2014 ram express 4x4 crew cab.5.7 liter Trans. with 8 Vel. driving with Eco in the city 45 mph 18, 25 in the freway at 75 and up. test 0 to 60 less 7 sec. Full sint. oil, lifted with 325_60R20 tires, 40k all ready
Doesn't the ecu automatically allow more air in if it needs it? It seems like, unless your flooring it, the max needed air flow would be achieved by the computer opening the "butterfly valve" (or equivalent) even if the filter is blocked a little.
If you open up your driver's door,on the jamb it will tell you factory PSI ,mine is 40psi .Also if you travel at speed limit or just under,you'll be surprised at mpg 👍my 5.7 gets 22.5 on highway 🛣️ (1,700rmp).
Another way to save MPG is to get you car/truck towed. Guaranteed to save 100% of your fuel so get it towed, Turning off your car on a downhill also helps
Here’s a bonus one (it’s probably not legal where you live) cut those cats out. Sell them, hollow them out and cut the wires to the rear sensors, bypass them just for the memes, it literally will add anywhere from 3-5 miles to each gallon. But all of these are really good tips as well.
I put a muffler on my truck magnaflow instead of the flowmaster 40 series and I'm shocked at my mpg and highway throttle response and haven't put a cold air intake in it yet but like you said when I put my 305/45/22 tires on it next year my mpg will go back to normal lol but it will handle better
Hi, i also got some exhaust work done with a tail pipe and magnaflow muffler, exhaust tip also. Good sound, perhaps increased mpg for now too. But did you add a cold air intake, was it worth it to get one?
@@dor1tomcswagger69 oh it looks good, i just can't seem to find/figure whether a good cold air intake is very much so worth it or even a good addition and practical. I would love to get a little more horse power...but a cold air intake supposedly is mostly about noise and a little bit of throttle response. I'm not sure it is worth it whatsoever. I should probably do spark plugs and another throttle body cleaning sometime here
When I bought my Ram, used not new, I got 25 mpg on the way home from the dealer. It was a hour and half drive on the interstate. That was according to the computer in the truck. Also my truck is a 2012 1500 4x4 with the 4.7 not the 5.7 hemi. The tires that were on it at the time were just regular stock size street tread. I have since switched it out to general grabber ATXs. A co worker who was also a Ram owner told me the computer in the truck isnt accurate for telling average mpg. Is that true and if so how far off is it usually?
I would love to get a levelling kit, but i knew it is going to loose tow capacity and it will affect your breaking time, and as well the tie rod worn out soo fast !!
That can also depend on your level kit. I had to replace the shocks on my 2011 Longhorn so I sprung for the Bilstein 5100's. I set them to 2.1 on the front and my gas mileage/towing/performance has been about the same for over 30k. I later installed timbren and those have made towing 1,000x better. They are the easiest mod and are seriously worth every penny if you ever tow. @boostedmotorsports you should do a video on improving your towing with airbags/timbren I've read about people adding a spacer to the rear coils, setting the bilsteins to 2.8, upgrading the control arms, and running 295/75/r20 tires. The consensus is that you start to see a real dip in MPG by then and 2.8 will start killing your front end if you don't upgrade the control arms.
Go for it, I have a 2018 f-150 with 1.5 level in front wich left me about a inch of rake. I also installed Firestone airbags in the rear so I can add rake when towing. My setup is mostly unnoticeable and MPG about the same.
Ok...I'm calling bullshit on this...I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.4 liter 3v motor,a 6 inch lift 17 inch drop star wheels and 35 inch tires..it's also got a k&n filter, and a diablo sport programmer that I run on level 3 which is the max setting..I currently get 13 to 15 mpg in the city an 16 to 18 on the highway..now that being said those numbers are right in line with how the truck came from the factory...so your lift kit and tires and programmers are not bad, maintaining your vehicle and not constantly driving with the hammer effects your mpg's more that anything..these tips he gave are useful...yes...but dont shy away from doing what you want with your truck..make it your own,and just know that your foot is the biggest determining factor in your gas mileage, not the bogus claims people are putting out there....
my dakota r/t does incredible below 50 or so, but has the whole k an n system,also must have 93 octane cause of different computer/ chip,an whatever else the guy did before me to it...timing i guess is maxed out but must be about perfect...no rattles on 93 octane,but does some on 89 etc..
Clean air filters dont help you get better gas milage till your filter is 50% dirty an dont top off your oil keep it in the middle of the safe zone get yourself forged aluminum rims there lighter which means less stress or weight rotational weight on your drivetrain
I just bought a 2014 Ram 1500 Hemi with 34,000 miles it. I ordered the KN intake yesterday. Without getting into computer altering, what else can I do?
2003 Chevy 1500 4.3 V6 You wouldn't happen to know what could be causing a misfire on my truck would you? Misfire only happens when I first crank my truck up and drive(no misfire at idle), it'll misfire while driving until you drive it for about 15 minutes then the misfire goes away. Let it sit overnight drive the next day, same thing happens again. Repetitive cycle.
No. The rake is not aerodynamic. But, the vehicle is designed around this rake. The rake is for adjusting to the sagging when towing. Obviously weight on the back will press it down, and a flat profile while towing is more important than a raked one or one with too much sagging(the front end sticking up) the lower the truck the less air gathers under the chassis and the more negative pressure will gather, pulling the vehicle(of any kind) closer to the ground and it will have wind go around it rather than gather beneath it. The most efficient form of driving is for any vehicle comes down to a low hoodline, shallow windshield rake, low physical profile, channel ducts and a flat Underbelly. All of the open space beneath a vehicle(as there is a lot on a truck) has the potential to cause turbulence and trap air under it which creates drag. Some new trucks(a Ram 1500 for example) has shudders behind the grille to not allow air to become stuck in the engine bay where it also causes drag as it becomes trapped. Closing off entry points is critical for aerodynamics. However, it will also sacrifice the ability to transfer heat if there is no ventilation. All ICE vehicles have this draw back, unless they utilize Naca ducts(Google it), which you won't find outside of purpose built race cars or super cars (and the occasion ricer). Electric cars don't have this problem because.. they don't need a radiator in the same capacity a ICE vehicle does. To round off all of this. The only way to get the most fuel economy out of your truck, regardless of brand or manufacturer, is to lower the profile, smooth out rough edges, prevent drag in areas that can be act as an airbrake, have good tires(for what you actually use the vehicle for) and have lightweight wheels that don't add to the rotational mass the vehicle already has too much of. You will NEVER get the fuel economy of a Prius or whatever Hybrid turds are out there. But, you can help your wallet but damage the point of a truck, it would not be able to tow. Manufacturers are looking at this stuff every day to find a good balance and while they have made many strides, there is still much to do. Oh and FYI don't remove your tailgate or drop it unless you're drag racing. That'll make it worse.
Have a 2014 ram 1500 longhorn 8 speed, 6 inch lift with bilstein shocks, 37 inch by 1350 nitto exo grapplers on 20 by 12 rims, superchip, k & n intake. Not a word of a lie I get 20 mpg on highway. Flowmaster exhaust going on soon so mpg will only go up... not far off from your own truck
I work for a tire shop. If you want better mileage, running max pressure will help he is right. But the tire pressure you SHOULD run depends on the weight of the vehicle. Running high pressure all the time will wear out the center of the tread faster than the edges, and you'll burn through tires much faster. Just fair warning. Great video though!
Right, and the higher the air pressure above 32 makes for a rough ride on many vehicles
You forgot the most important one, your right foot.
Floor it got it
ChunkierMango79 actually rip the bottom floor to be able to floor it more
I didn't pay for all those ponies for nothing.
That’s the issue for me. I wanna hear all 8 American bald Eagle pistons roaring when I take off
Ok but….even in a 97 it’s easy to over step
Got the v6 (4x4 CC) for a reason..24.5mpg on a 500 mile road trip. Stock everything. Maintained 75mph on the freeway, very little passing. Proper tire inflation!! 39psi front and rear. 🙌🏻
Diesel?
@@timmartinez8995 3.6 gasser.
I did like you. Same setup. Glad i did now that Biden waged war on fossil fuels.
@@jeffsnider7842 since I posted this I got a hemi again. Getting probably 20MPG on the same trip, but I definitely won’t tell someone to run from the v6. Starting to make my first house mine, lots more towing a hauling, the v6 was working way too hard. Of course, I bought literally 3 days before gas prices sky rocketed. Live and learn, I guess lol
Yeah I bought a brand new 2011 Ram for the same reason... Had we looked at the window stickers we would of seen that the 5.7 hemi gets better fuel economy than the V6 does. The truck is too big and too heavy for a V6, causing it to have to work much harder than the V8s, which in turn gives it close to equal, but slightly worse fuel economy than the V8... I was so pissed when I realized it myself... Now I have one with the 4.7 flex fuel V8 (never tried running flex fuel yet) but it does great and gets better mpg than either the hemi or the V6
Keeping your speed/rpm down is important for maximum fuel mileage. The rule used to be 55 mph was most efficient, but that was back in the 70's. I know that if I cruise at around 1500 rpm in top gear (8 speed trans), my 2016 Ram will get around 23 mpg on the highway. That's just under 70 mph on flat ground, which is great. I think I read every 5 mph above 65 is -1 mpg, but that won't be true on every vehicle.
Great info! Yeah these 8 speeds definitely help with keeping the RPM low and not raising it significantly when a small hill approaches like the older 6 or 5 speed trucks 👍
I heard being in a higher gear with a super low RPM with your foot to the floor actually gets you worse gas mileage
BoostedMotorsports )45555555*55t
48 mph seems to get best fuel mileage in several different trucks
BoostedMotorsports number of gears have nothing to do with holding gear on a hill. Rear end ratio is where that comes in. If anything, an 8 speed is going to have to drop gears more so than a trans with fewer gears
I get 4MPG more by keeping the radio tuned away from RAP music. Another saving of 2.5 MPG by not having my forearms tattooed. I can save 1.75 MPG by driving sober and a bonus of 3 MPG saved by avoiding meth, crack and weed!
How many miles does it give you for being a dumbass? 🤔
Ground breaking... Thank you for doing all the research to put this remarkable video together
Best aftermarket tires for offroad/snow/on-road are the BFgoodrich k02’s great off road and don’t affect MPG like other ones do
Well done John. As always, sweet and to the point. I pull a trailer a lot so watching this is just to support the channel. RAM ON....
Thanks for the support! 👍👍👍
Thanks for the tips. I usually run my tires at the pressure that the recommended door frame and have achieved some pretty good MPG. I to HAD a 2014 RAM 1500 similar to yours, but I traded it in for a 2019 RAM 1500 with the Black Package about 10 days ago. Still breaking it in, only have 600 miles on it.
Ah man I'm jealous Don! As I expected the new 5th gen RAM looks will grow on everyone and I'm already in love with that new look. I'm trying to cover as much content as possible with this 4th gen before I start doing the same with the 5th gen 2019+ trucks but I think people will get mad if I get rid of this 4th gen lol
Believe it or not, I got rid of it because of two things. I kept getting a P520 code, oil pressure switch, being that the first time this happened was at 45K then at 50k I was a little weary about this at such a low mileage, the other was the radio, yes the radio! People dont realize that the radio isn't just a radio anymore, they control a whole lot more behind the scene and can lead to some big issues down the road. This is a known issue that FCA has been having with this radio. It took FCA 4 months to replace the radio, granted they took care of it post warranty which was great customer service. But after a year I started having the same issue, no volume control, no ac control, no navigation, no back up camera, no Bluetooth/phone function and so on. The last update also failed. I really like my old Ram so I bought another. Have a good one, hope your not close to any of the fires in SoCal, I'm very close to the "Holy" fire so I'm trying to keep the ashes off of the new Black Pearl finish on my truck.
Inflate your tires to factory recommended tire pressure (for factory size). You can find that information on your drivers door jam
I need some motorcycle tires for my old dodge pickup
@@privateprivate1865 okay?
@@privateprivate1865 😂
I got an extra 1.2mpg (long distance highway average @ 80mph cruise control w ac on) from installing the rear 2" drop shackles. I think it pulled the tailgate down just enough out of the wind. 2004 5.7. Also make damn sure your throttle body is clean it will get crazy dirty and rob abt 2mpg. 240k miles and I get plenty of blow by, abt a qt per 3k miles. Air oil separator going on next. Currently 20.5 mpg hwy average @80mph
The max psi stamped on the tire is only for the max weight specified, and that is for each tire. Even with max payload you won’t achieve this much weight on the tires. It will just ride rough and wear out the center as he said. They put in a safety factor for weight to eliminate the possibility of something like the Ford Explorer/Firestone thing from happening again.
I go somewhere in between the door sticker and the max. The door sticker is just a safe recommendation covering all seasons and many regions, extreme cold and heat for a balance of not only mileage, but safety as far as grip and not overheating the tire due to under inflated tires running hotter and blowing up more frequently.
Tires have to be aired up to the specific load of the vehicle (noted in the door jamb per wheel). Different load range tires require different amount of air per load.. Passenger tires (32/44 psi max rated) carry more weight per PSI than say E-rated (90psi) tires at the exact same PSI. Its very important to get the right Load to pressure balance to reduce rolling resistance and increase load carrying capacity without over heating the tire (over heating can give you a bad day). A truck that rolled out with P-metric tires like in the video may only need 37psi of the 44 max rating to properly carry its load, be properly inflated, and have a good contact patch. A lot of people would go to an E-rated tire when replacing the stock P-metric ones. If that person then ran the same 37PSI in the new tires they would be under aired and carry less weight than the stock tires. Some go to E-rated for many reasons the extra load cap,stiffer more durable sidewalls, the surety of tongue weight when trailering, 5/32 or more extra tread depth for the exact same size tire, and other reasons. On a truck like the one in the video he may go to a E rated and need to run 50-60psi out of a possible max 90psi and air the rear up to 80-90 only when trailering (say pulling a car on a trailer). If you would like to loaf around in some good data/charts for pressure to load ratings of tires by size go to this website and have a look around. You don't have to take my word for it or the loser in the videos under educated word on it you can go here and see for yourself how it is really done. www.tirepressure.com
Also a good rule of thumb when adjusting air for a particular application is to put the PSI the chart calls COLD TIRE PSI then drive it about 30miles pull over and check the HOT TIRE pressure if the pressure rises more than 5psi the pressure is to low (over heating the tire... it goes together with heat and it will come apart with heat under pressure) adjust it and do the test again until the test keeps you in the 5psi pressure rise margin. This PSI your at now is your low point from there on (unless your airing down for off-road use) this rule is fixed and proven. This is the best way to get the softest ride and safest low pressure point.
First thing I do to any truck I buy is lift and aggressive tires... ha, worth it!
I literally just looked this up yesterday about trying to get better mpg , I get 12 at tops
Me 22
You must drive mainly in the city.
I get 11.6 mpg on mine 07 Sierra pls help
chewy yt is that city or highway driving? Are you towing? Any modifications done to the truck?
For my 2013 6.2l raptor, i get 18 highway mpg(@ 60 mph), 8mpg street. i have a roush cai and borla exhaust.
Sorry if someone already mentioned this.
If you're going to run tire pressure and max, air up when the weather and tires are hot. Tire pressure will increase as the tires warm up.
dude im not gonna lie you provide a lot of great knowledge for trucks to keep people from doing stupid stuff to their vehicles and do positive things to make you truck run better and more efficient thanks man im from southern California myself and i did your channel
Thanks brother I appreciate it!!! I do my best. Hoping to take this channel to the next level and get some new project vehicles on here soon too!
@@BoostedMotorsports right on that would be cool as hell
Ram 1500 stock 5.7 hemi, 8 speed, 89 octane, crew cab, short bed
I went driving around at night trying to see how fuel efficient i can be on the highway & country roads and my highway average, according to the dash, was anywhere from 32 to 48 mpg with the mds on. I ended up with a combined average of 22.6 mpg when i got done 4 hours later, starting from 17.5 mpg the average I got from my regular commute to work.
When i had my 3.6 pentastar, under the same conditions I can push the combined average to 27 mpg from 22.1 regular commute to work.
Tires have to be aired up to the specific load of the vehicle (noted in the door jamb per wheel). Different load range tires require different amount of air per load.. Passenger tires (32/44 psi max rated) carry more weight per PSI than say E-rated (90psi) tires at the exact same PSI. Its very important to get the right Load to pressure balance to reduce rolling resistance and increase load carrying capacity without over heating the tire (over heating can give you a bad day). A truck that rolled out with P-metric tires like in the video may only need 37psi of the 44 max rating to properly carry its load, be properly inflated, and have a good contact patch. A lot of people would go to an E-rated tire when replacing the stock P-metric ones. If that person then ran the same 37PSI in the new tires they would be under aired and carry less weight than the stock tires. Some go to E-rated for many reasons the extra load cap, stiffer more durable sidewalls, the surety of tongue weight when trailering, 5/32 or more extra tread depth for the exact same size tire, and other reasons. On a truck like the one in the video he may go to a E rated and need to run 50-60psi out of a possible max 90psi and air the rear up to 80-90 only when trailering (say pulling a car on a trailer). If you would like to loaf around in some good data/charts for pressure to load ratings of tires by size go to this website and have a look around. You don't have to take my word for it or the loser in the videos under educated word on it you can go here and see for yourself how it is really done. www.tirepressure.com
Also a good rule of thumb when adjusting air for a particular application is to put the PSI the chart calls COLD TIRE PSI then drive it about 30miles pull over and check the HOT TIRE pressure if the pressure rises more than 5psi the pressure is to low (over heating the tire... it goes together with heat and it will come apart with heat under pressure) adjust it and do the test again until the test keeps you in the 5psi pressure rise margin. This PSI your at now is your low point from there on (unless your airing down for off-road use) this rule is fixed and proven. This is the best way to get the softest ride and safest low pressure point. best fuel mileage will be slightly above that pressure. This is why huge haulers like concrete trucks have have tires plumbed to air tanks so they can adjust for load, traction, and fuel efficiency on the fly. Sad I cannot link the article this info came from but it was none the less intricate and spectacular source of information that is clearly lost on newer generations. Be Safe out there fellas! Knock the rust off your tire thumper daily and keep the dirty off your fuel gauge stick!
People buy trucks for many reason so each is own suggestions well taken and Thanks
Yes! When I run my AC (which is 90% of the time living down South here) in my 07 Tahoe 5.3L V8, my MPG goes waaaaay down! 😢😢
*open windows gang has entered the chat*
Saving a couple of dollars in gas doesn’t help when you have to spend $600 every year replacing tires. Over inflating your tire does not save money. It also reduces your contact patch, making that big, heavy truck harder to stop in a pinch. Check your tires regularly and keep them inflated for optimal tire wear. That’s going t give you the best happy medium between fuel economy and tire longevity. I have a 2010 RAM and the door sticker has it at 40 psi, which rounds them out. Here in the Florida heat, I achieve even tire wear at 37 psi.
Cool. Running those high pressures can compromise safety since tires will not perform as intended. Also, this makes is very easy for tire to exceed max psi and fail.
All great points and I do them all another great video!! Use Amsoil Signature Series and filter since new great stuff once a year oil change for myself.
Thanks Anthony! Yeah Amsoil makes great oil! I used them pretty strictly in all of my race engines in the past!
When I had my 2011 f150 with the 4.6 v8 I was getting around 28 mpgs. That’s mainly highway driving going 65mph with cruise control on. Modifications were k&n air filter, borla atak exhaust, 2in level and lift kit, and swapped the stock tires with some Michelin’s. Oh and I only used ethanol free gas.
Ethanol will do that. But 100% gas costs more.
I got the reverse leds bulbs an you said they even look better in person, you were not kidding,thanks for all the great information. Still think you need to be on Power Block or something
Thanks for the support brother! I'm having fun making these videos and as long as people enjoy them thats all that matter! All I ask is you share any videos you find helpful on facebook or wherever we can spread the word! Have a great weekend! 🤘🤘🤘
Nice video John! My friend has the same truck as me but he has it leveled and running A/T tires. I'm averaging 10.9 liters per 100kms (hwy) and he is averaging 15 liter per 100kms (hwy) I think I'm good with the tires and ride height lol. Keep the videos coming man!
Thanks Jason! Yeah I'm just as guilty as the next guy with modding these trucks but after putting a HUGE 8" lift and 35s on my 2009 RAM 1500 HEMI and hating the way it drove and the fuel mileage I ended up selling it and vowed not to do that again to a gas truck lol
It also hinges on what gear you have in the rear end. I actually pulled 26.2 mpg with the 3.21 gear. Best I could pull so far with the 3.92 gear is 20.4 mpg on the highway.
Boosted!!! Just got me an 18 Ram Night Edition 4x4 and definitely look forward to adding some more power to it. Stoked i found your channel a while back im suscribed and look forward to all old and new content. Keep em coming man!!!!
look at his LED videos, i have all mine swapped in my 18 Sport
imaxx21 I did lol got the plates, glove box, reverse and cargo haven't done the map or dome since they ain't bulbs but I watched the video of how he did it.
lol same here, i went with the Hikari fogs they cost more but fit much tighter in the housing
I just got a 2018 Ram Sport Night Edition and just ordered the same side steps he put on in another video, the C6s LED Fogs, and looking to get better low beams but hesitant to drill my dust caps for HID..
get the reverse LEDs they're awesome....i have the HID lows and didnt drill the caps
Appreciate all the info you give, i cant wait to play a little with my 2014 Ram
Thanks
One important thing to mention, specially for us living in the northern zones with snow, it is driving on 2WD as much as possible. Driving on 4WD Auto, my fuel consumption increases by 30% in the city.
I just recently learned about this, 2WD all the time now unless off road
I prefer to drive on 4wd all time. It is really dangerous on 2wd. Behavior of the truck is completely different. I prefer safety over saving money on gas.
@@jucamvil In Summer I find 2WD very safe. In winter I'd agree with you, 4WD is the way.
Adding a bed cover helps too.
👍👍👍
Actually, it doesn’t. It disrupts the aerodynamics of the vehicle and you get more drag and less fuel mileage.
I maybe get 15 on the highway but u gotta love that realiable magnums
Yeah that 5.9 will go forever! Only thing is crank position sensors on those motors will leave ya stranded lol
*trade in 6 speed ram for 8 speed ram
I know Lousiana state patrol runs around max tire psi. There main reasoning was better control in west weather
Beowulf Grendel max tire pressure should have the exact opposite effect. It rounds out the tire, reducing the contact patch with the pavement and, therefore, your grip.
If you daily drive your Viper.....the truck would get phenomenal mileage LOL
hahah maybe I should just do that instead 🤣
You mean toy Viper in your living room????)
😂
wrong! your truck will get 0 miles per gallon if you don't drive it 😀
would lowing the truck help fuel mileage? someone mention that would help?
Speaking from experience I used to fill my minivan tires up to their maximum tire pressure. My brakes were not stopping the car right after I replaced them with new brakes. That’s when I learned to air according to factory pressure. My brakes worked a lot better. The reason is factory pressure leaves enough surface area on the road which allows the car good traction. Not as much of a concern on dirt roads but vital important on pavement. For the concern of every one on the road. Please to not ignore factory pressure just for fuel economy. Fuel economy means nothing to those who die in an accident from simple mistakes.
Lol I didn't buy a hemi to worry about gas mileage keep the videos coming love them all
haha me neither and mine wasn't too good with the supercharger on it but some people still wanna squeeze as much as they can 😂
Smiles per mile!
Or is it smiles per gallon, humm.
So dont do anything. Got it.
Miguel Librero I get 17 mpg on a 2000 gmc 1500 lifted 3in on 33x12.50x20 but i have cold air intake and tuner and exhaust with a x pipe geared different 4:10 gears
Hey dude I didn’t want to bring one thing to notice for your video that the max tire PSI on the tire is specifically for the rubber if you want to find the max or best psi for your car it’s going to be on the inside of the door jam and it will tell you what the max PSI or best psi is for that particular vehicle as the other one is basically just telling you how much is safe to run in that actual tire
First time I heard good tips
I get 22.5 mpg on the highway with my ford F-150 5.0 engine. If I turn on my air conditioner I lose 5.0 mpg. I run highway tires at 38psi. Any added weight you have in the bed or cab will effect mpg also.
I put on some LT(E rated 10 ply) A/T tires and added 1.5” spacers all around and lost about 100km on my range, sitting at 19.5l/100km from 13-15l/100km…
Air raide throttle body riser, headers, large solar panel, K&N air filter, Lucas injection cleaner, removed the pump that pumps air into my exhuast, Air pressure to 38 psi on tires. I am at about 1000+ km on a 110 liter fill with my 88 chev extended cab long box 350 motor virtually all highway and very conservative driving
Great Vids man appreciate the help/ Ideas to improve my 14' Sport. Keep up the good Work!
Max psi on the sidewall is just that! Over that max and the tire could fail! So, fill to the max tire pressure in the morning and have tire failure in the afternoon! Follow the cold psi sticker on the door jamb. The tire pressure will increase as you drive through out the day and be safely below the MAX psi.
Don’t forget straight-pipe or aftermarket exhaust will increase fuel economy
Good advice.
A few more tips from me, your neighborhood friendly average joe. Don’t drive aggressively go with the flow or be low, Speedy Mc lead foot. Don’t idle for along time. Weekends, drink at home don’t go to your favorite watering hole. Consider a 6 as a posed to an 8. Check your rear brakes if you have drums, those cylinders. if the rubber parts are torn or not calibrated will add resistance.
Keep it stock, don't use the AC, and keep basic maintenance. So profound.
🤣🤘👍
I thought you were gonna mention Rear diffusers. BTW BoostedMotorsports you look exactly like my friend Steve Princivali, he's a meteorologist I worked with a long time ago.
What gas do yall put for 2007 Chevy Silverado 2007 v6
Wearing out your tires early cause you kept them overinflated is gonna cost you more than the minor fuel savings you may achieve.
I got 32.6 inch aggressive wrangler tires on my truck and I get 15-16mpg on my 2004 5.4 f150. I’ve always had 15-16mpg even with stock 32.1 inch tires.
If you're doing some off-road the Terra grapplers work good and aren't too loud on the road
I know people tend to do this a lot, especially if they're in a comfy vehicle, but don't idle in it in the parking lot for 15-30 minutes at a time with the AC blasting. When I had to let the air out of my cooling system in my Civic, I had to idle it for like an hour or two. I think my car burns like 1 gallon of gas per hour just idling, and that's a Civic.
My new body 2020 RAM 1500 5.7L Hemi has a wind tunnel designed front end, cylinder deactivation, regenerative eTorque, air dam that lowers at speed, auto grill louvers, swept back non-towing mirrors, cab and tailgate spoilers, venturi roof design, and smoothed cab/bed junction. Gas mileage beats my old F-150 3.5L ecoboost. I run at 40 psi. Only thing that might help is power folding the mirrors at highway speeds, but not as safe and the stock mirrors seem very aerodynamic already. And could that get you a traffic ticket citation?
Just buy a golf
More good tips. 👍🏼. Thanks for another great vid bro. 🇨🇦
Thanks Barry! 👍
Lowered trucks should be more efficient. It would be interesting to test
how much will mileage increase, with fatter tires and leveling kit only? jus tball park if you can
Awesome bro!!! I was thinking about this the other day!
Thanks!!! More on the way about the mods I think HELP 😎
BoostedMotorsports heck yea bro!! You are a man on a Mission! I'll be tuning in for sure! Much love From BLP3 MOTORS
I need this more than all y’all I was getting 5mpg in my old truck I took off the tailgate and I’m getting 8 now but I’m still trying to get more out of it it’s a 1986 Dodge D250 carbureted and it helps to keep your foot out of it but I’m 17 good luck with that but fr I need better gas
I got it so cheap btw it’s a 318 with a straight pipe
Tear out the interior and only leave your drivers seat. Start removing body panels to reduce weight
I have a 09 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 big horn bone stock with 10K tow package
If I put synthetic oil in it I get crappy gas mileage when I go back to cheap spec oil for my truck I get much better. What’s the deal
In town I only get 8-10 mpg highway 18 mpg
Any ideas
You actually forgot one of the biggest common issues. Put a tonneau cover on the back. Low resistance more airflow more MPG.
What is the best stock tire size and brand. 2017 Ram 1500 20X8, is that right?
Excellent video
Thanks
W doesn’t stand for “weight” with oils. It actually means Winter.
A four cylinder vehicle as in the older four cylinder vehicle like a 1988 Honda you can definitely feel a lil drag but not newer four cylinders
i am happy with truck, 2014 ram express 4x4 crew cab.5.7 liter Trans. with 8 Vel. driving with Eco in the city 45 mph 18, 25 in the freway at 75 and up. test 0 to 60 less 7 sec. Full sint. oil, lifted with 325_60R20 tires, 40k all ready
Thats awesome! Glad yours is getting great mileage too!
Great video...the filter change was for me a great reminder... thanks
Thanks for the feedback! 😎🤘👍
Yes air filter
Doesn't the ecu automatically allow more air in if it needs it? It seems like, unless your flooring it, the max needed air flow would be achieved by the computer opening the "butterfly valve" (or equivalent) even if the filter is blocked a little.
If you open up your driver's door,on the jamb it will tell you factory PSI ,mine is 40psi .Also if you travel at speed limit or just under,you'll be surprised at mpg 👍my 5.7 gets 22.5 on highway 🛣️ (1,700rmp).
Another way to save MPG is to get you car/truck towed. Guaranteed to save 100% of your fuel so get it towed,
Turning off your car on a downhill also helps
Put solar panels in the bottom of the bed to run a pelter junction AC system.
What can you add to the wheels/tires/suspension to not hurt mpg?
Here’s a bonus one (it’s probably not legal where you live) cut those cats out. Sell them, hollow them out and cut the wires to the rear sensors, bypass them just for the memes, it literally will add anywhere from 3-5 miles to each gallon. But all of these are really good tips as well.
Have you done any of these mods to a 2nd gen?
How about a bed cover, or removing/dropping the tailgate?
Another little hack for older trucks, buy a manual transmission, it’s a bit lighter and you can skip gears and putt around with low rpm’s
I put a muffler on my truck magnaflow instead of the flowmaster 40 series and I'm shocked at my mpg and highway throttle response and haven't put a cold air intake in it yet but like you said when I put my 305/45/22 tires on it next year my mpg will go back to normal lol but it will handle better
Hi, i also got some exhaust work done with a tail pipe and magnaflow muffler, exhaust tip also. Good sound, perhaps increased mpg for now too. But did you add a cold air intake, was it worth it to get one?
@@zapcodeknock4503 no I didn't but I still want one. I'm looking at S&B dry filter but I want to get a tuner at the same time
@@dor1tomcswagger69 oh it looks good, i just can't seem to find/figure whether a good cold air intake is very much so worth it or even a good addition and practical. I would love to get a little more horse power...but a cold air intake supposedly is mostly about noise and a little bit of throttle response.
I'm not sure it is worth it whatsoever.
I should probably do spark plugs and another throttle body cleaning sometime here
Good information. Thank you.
This guy never looked at the lens he literally looked at himself the whole video
That’s hilarious
When I bought my Ram, used not new, I got 25 mpg on the way home from the dealer. It was a hour and half drive on the interstate. That was according to the computer in the truck. Also my truck is a 2012 1500 4x4 with the 4.7 not the 5.7 hemi. The tires that were on it at the time were just regular stock size street tread. I have since switched it out to general grabber ATXs. A co worker who was also a Ram owner told me the computer in the truck isnt accurate for telling average mpg. Is that true and if so how far off is it usually?
Been told by several experts, READ the drivers side door panel for tire pressures, NOT the tire.
@alex sanchez I guess Auto Manufacturers are wrong then.. thanks for letting me know.
I would love to get a levelling kit, but i knew it is going to loose tow capacity and it will affect your breaking time, and as well the tie rod worn out soo fast !!
Yeah and leveling kits on a 1500 4wd run the risk of having vibration when the CV are out of alignment
That can also depend on your level kit. I had to replace the shocks on my 2011 Longhorn so I sprung for the Bilstein 5100's. I set them to 2.1 on the front and my gas mileage/towing/performance has been about the same for over 30k. I later installed timbren and those have made towing 1,000x better. They are the easiest mod and are seriously worth every penny if you ever tow. @boostedmotorsports you should do a video on improving your towing with airbags/timbren
I've read about people adding a spacer to the rear coils, setting the bilsteins to 2.8, upgrading the control arms, and running 295/75/r20 tires. The consensus is that you start to see a real dip in MPG by then and 2.8 will start killing your front end if you don't upgrade the control arms.
Go for it, I have a 2018 f-150 with 1.5 level in front wich left me about a inch of rake. I also installed Firestone airbags in the rear so I can add rake when towing. My setup is mostly unnoticeable and MPG about the same.
Of course I have a lift kit on the way right now😂
It'll look badass with the lift though! 🤘
BoostedMotorsports true ,but once I get my new rims and tires I'll be getting like 5mpg lmao. But yea it's gonna look badass
@@jdz3394
Get a diesel then it be 20+
@@madbear3512 yeah eventually I will , most likely a Cummins
@@jdz3394
Why do you have 2 trucks anyway
Ok...I'm calling bullshit on this...I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.4 liter 3v motor,a 6 inch lift 17 inch drop star wheels and 35 inch tires..it's also got a k&n filter, and a diablo sport programmer that I run on level 3 which is the max setting..I currently get 13 to 15 mpg in the city an 16 to 18 on the highway..now that being said those numbers are right in line with how the truck came from the factory...so your lift kit and tires and programmers are not bad, maintaining your vehicle and not constantly driving with the hammer effects your mpg's more that anything..these tips he gave are useful...yes...but dont shy away from doing what you want with your truck..make it your own,and just know that your foot is the biggest determining factor in your gas mileage, not the bogus claims people are putting out there....
my dakota r/t does incredible below 50 or so, but has the whole k an n system,also must have 93 octane cause of different computer/ chip,an whatever else the guy did before me to it...timing i guess is maxed out but must be about perfect...no rattles on 93 octane,but does some on 89 etc..
I have a 2017 i got last year certified truck. Seems like it's always thirsty.
Clean air filters dont help you get better gas milage till your filter is 50% dirty an dont top off your oil keep it in the middle of the safe zone get yourself forged aluminum rims there lighter which means less stress or weight rotational weight on your drivetrain
I just bought a 2014 Ram 1500 Hemi with 34,000 miles it. I ordered the KN intake yesterday. Without getting into computer altering, what else can I do?
Muffler delete.
Dalm my 2010 v8 chevy tahoe wastes alot of gas.. I heard ur ac wastes gas also and other stuff..
2003 Chevy 1500 4.3 V6 You wouldn't happen to know what could be causing a misfire on my truck would you? Misfire only happens when I first crank my truck up and drive(no misfire at idle), it'll misfire while driving until you drive it for about 15 minutes then the misfire goes away. Let it sit overnight drive the next day, same thing happens again. Repetitive cycle.
The one down side to max air pressure in tires is a worse ride.
Yeah I completely agree!
So you say the rake is aerodynamic . Would you say that lowering the rear 2" to level would hurt the mpg
No. The rake is not aerodynamic. But, the vehicle is designed around this rake. The rake is for adjusting to the sagging when towing. Obviously weight on the back will press it down, and a flat profile while towing is more important than a raked one or one with too much sagging(the front end sticking up) the lower the truck the less air gathers under the chassis and the more negative pressure will gather, pulling the vehicle(of any kind) closer to the ground and it will have wind go around it rather than gather beneath it. The most efficient form of driving is for any vehicle comes down to a low hoodline, shallow windshield rake, low physical profile, channel ducts and a flat Underbelly. All of the open space beneath a vehicle(as there is a lot on a truck) has the potential to cause turbulence and trap air under it which creates drag. Some new trucks(a Ram 1500 for example) has shudders behind the grille to not allow air to become stuck in the engine bay where it also causes drag as it becomes trapped. Closing off entry points is critical for aerodynamics. However, it will also sacrifice the ability to transfer heat if there is no ventilation. All ICE vehicles have this draw back, unless they utilize Naca ducts(Google it), which you won't find outside of purpose built race cars or super cars (and the occasion ricer). Electric cars don't have this problem because.. they don't need a radiator in the same capacity a ICE vehicle does.
To round off all of this. The only way to get the most fuel economy out of your truck, regardless of brand or manufacturer, is to lower the profile, smooth out rough edges, prevent drag in areas that can be act as an airbrake, have good tires(for what you actually use the vehicle for) and have lightweight wheels that don't add to the rotational mass the vehicle already has too much of. You will NEVER get the fuel economy of a Prius or whatever Hybrid turds are out there. But, you can help your wallet but damage the point of a truck, it would not be able to tow. Manufacturers are looking at this stuff every day to find a good balance and while they have made many strides, there is still much to do.
Oh and FYI don't remove your tailgate or drop it unless you're drag racing. That'll make it worse.
I didn't buy a ram to save gas.
No you buy one because your a girl or your girl friend.
What of camera u use and lens?
This was a Canon 80D with Sigma 18-55mm. Its for sale in LA if interested
BoostedMotorsports nice is it 4k
Good tips thank you!
Have a 2014 ram 1500 longhorn 8 speed, 6 inch lift with bilstein shocks, 37 inch by 1350 nitto exo grapplers on 20 by 12 rims, superchip, k & n intake. Not a word of a lie I get 20 mpg on highway. Flowmaster exhaust going on soon so mpg will only go up... not far off from your own truck
Thats awesome Andy!! 🤘🤘🤘
Bro I have a 2014 too! I was nervous about mods on it but I'm gunna take a chance! Thanks for your comment!
Be careful with putting too much air in the tires. Not only do they wear off faster you also ride harsher and it can be a safety risk.
Can't you lift the truck and keep factory rake?