Finally someone who really understands how best to drive and modify your pickup. I use my pickup strickly for towing RVs. I lowered the rear 3 inches and 1 mpg , = 10% increase, installed used topper and added a deflector with extension to back of topper with vortex generators and increased mpg 18%. The lower dam in front is good idea. Irun high pressure in tires and installed 10 ply. and drive 55mph from Florida to Washington state yearly and save a bundle of $. Alway stay in right lane and be extremely courteous to truck drivers and they will appreciate it. California law is 55mph for all trailers. It makes for a lot more relaxing trip and doesn't to a lot longer. Start slow and look way ahead and around. Formula for speed or wind pressure is velocity squared by .0256 will give you pressure per square foot x area. About 23% less at 55 compared to 70mph which means fewer fuel stops. Relax and enjoy the ride.
Thanks for sharing all your experience! Lowering is a good idea for tow rigs. I saw a semi truck and the front bumper was only a few inches off the ground to prevent air from getting under the truck.
MY WIFE AND I STAY AT HOME A LOT - DOESN'T HELP ON MPG BUT THE OVER-ALL FUEL COSTS STAY WAY DOWN - LOL!!!!!!! THIS WAS A GOOD DOWN TO EARTH VIDEO WITH MANY GOOD TIPS I THINK WILL HELP A LOT - THANKS - AND BRAVO!!!!!!!
this is a very good video not only for trucks but for passenger cars too. i was expecting small facts that everyone knew but you went the extra mile and practically when through most of the main systems to maximize fuel economy. i would expand on driving habits cuz that is a big one. people floor it on green like if theyre racing to the next red light. Keeping the revs as low as possible, vacuum as high as possible, coasting (off the throttle or on neutral) as much as possible and not exceeding 65mph on the freeway and avoiding high traffic or slow speed areas will help tremendously.
Driving habits on a well maintained vehicle give better results than all the others combined. Driving habits include a lot more than how fast you accelerate and stop.
Another good way to gain an extra 5 mpg is to 'follow' someone on the road. Drive behind someone on a safe distance cause he is pushing all the wind in front of u. Tried thin on my honda car and it works.
Good tips. Regarding the aerodynamics and the rear spoiler. It actually does help as you stated it correctly. Check out this video by Ford regarding aerodynamics. The low pressure in the truck bed created by the passing air flow makes air flow over the truck bed. The tail gate up = less drag. F-150 Aerodynamics: Where Art Meets Science F-150 Aerodynamics: Where Art Meets Science
Alryt I'm happy to see another Canadian doing these improves!! Thanks for the video. The conditions in our severe weather does affect the engine performance in general. so I believe these are really good tips and when followed in ideal weather conditions around; the world I think it should improvise fuel efficiency big time.
Thank you for the tips. However, I am more impressed with adding hydrogen from ammonia in a fuel cell or adding a fuel vaporizer. Both of those can improve performance, cleaner emissions and mileage gain up to 40% at a much less costs.
All very good advice BUT just a few points I'd like to add/correct: (1) after-market conical air filters are not meant for low revving cars (2) giving less resistence to air in the intake will not give you better performance unless you tune acordingly the ECU (3) longer piping is good for low rev high torque, shorter piping will yield higher torque at higher RPMs (you did mention this correctly in the video) You covered a lot of topics and you did it very well. Great tips
I like gen 2 gas Rams. With oversized plug wires, good plugs, MSD coil, new filter I got 4-5 mpgs on my 2000 4x4. I got the exhaust to do next. I already went from 10-12 mpgs to 14-17. Plus power. She was sluggish at first. O yeah and recently the Big Gulp throttle body which really kicked it up a notch. I wanna do the intake next
@@AnthonyJ350 true, and to go along with something u said before, the type of tires. You have the option of choosing wider or skinnier tires and also the load rating. If you choose something that's e-rated it will have more plies and will be much heavier and sturdier. Normally wouldn't be needed unless you are going to be loading your vehicle more, but some people don't look at that and it does add up when you are looking at four tires
Air raide throttle body riser, headers, large solar panel, K&N air filter, Lucas injection cleaner, removed the pump that pumps air into my exhuast, Air pressure to 38 psi on tires. I am at about 1000+ km on a 110 liter fill with my 88 chev extended cab long box 350 motor virtually all highway and very conservative driving
In running a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 HD (Classic Body style) with a 6.0L gasser..Darn thing was sitting at like 27.8L/ 100 km at one point; however, I soon realized that just accelerating and breaking slower helped drop it down to 21.9L/ 100 km. Its not the best, but it helped me.
I don't know if modifying the truck with proven bolt ons will break the truck. You might be doing something wrong there if you are. Also trucks are going to depreciate no matter what. You might as well build it up and enjoy the thing. I just haven't seen anyone personally break their vehicle due to using a recognized brand for intake and exhaust.
definitely sounded like you were about to start laughing at the end. "maybe you shouldnt own a full size truck". There are a lot of people in the US that drive trucks just so they can drive a truck. Which thats ok, i prefer driving a truck to a sedan, but its not very smart as a primary reason!
Nice video with lots of helpful tips. Thanks. One thing that bothers me about newer trucks is how tall they are. Vehicle height makes a big difference in fuel economy (drag) at highway speeds.
Engineers already done quite a few are dynamic studies on pickup trucks and found that a tonneau cover is pretty much useless unless you integrate the rear spoiler and a cab top rear spoiler. Otherwise tonneau cover alone still creates excessive drag behind each vertical wall.
First I would start with this if you just get a car start with doing brakes all around including any bushings rotors and calipers or for my truck drums in the back then start with an oil change clean air filter and intake flush all old fluids out change out spark plugs and wires sea foam and fuel stabilizer then work on bolt ons after you tackle all those areas
high tire pressure will get you better mpg it reduces the surface area of the tire in contact with the road and allows it to roll easier. you can test your self with any inflatable round object roll it down a hard surface with high air pressure and low and see for your self with rolls easier.
@@nikkowhite7732 I won't go over max tire pressure. but the pressure for a vehicle is listed in the data inside the driver side door. don't go to far above that though or it will wear out your suspension to fast.
Yes on the magnets in filtration system! Excellent, informative video-a thing or two I had not yet thought/heard of~thanks for that....also love that last part as well..."maybe you just should'nt own a full size truck"~amen to that, quit griping people-it's a truck!
taller tires will change your gear ration to a higher number. i.e. from 3.55 to 3.23 for example. this will decrease your engine rpm and increase fuel mileage. I have a 99 ram 2wd 5.9 magnum, with 130k on it. when new this truck was rated at 15mpg city, 17 hwy. I now get 16.5 combined with a change from the 22575r16 tires to a 24575r16, kn cold air system, flowmaster exhaust and 180 vs 195 tstat. I drive this truck 90 miles round trip every day 6 days a week. And by the way, I stand on it every chance I get
I use and add DIECYL to the dieselfuel .........incresased protection and decreseased fuel consumption .......... 4.3 L diesel for 100 Km ( = 1.05669 Gallon for 62.137 miles )
What type of fuel system do you have??? Ya making the truck a little lighter would help if you do a lot of city driving. You have to evaluate the cost though. If those parts cost a lot, it might take a long time to get your money back. You might as well put that money towards gas. As far as tunes, the ecu should be tuned more towards economy as opposed to performance.
there is nothing about the engine being colder that is going to tell the ECU to send less fuel into the combustion chamber. there is also nothing about a fresh or new air filter that will tell the ECU to send less fuel to the combustion chamber. If you disagree then you simply dont understand fuel injected motor fuel delivery systems.
Yeah cold air intake is terrible for efficiency. Use a warm air intake with a high flow filter. Running boards are fine for aerodynamics if they're the ones that seal to the body and the rear of the front wheel opening and the front of the rear wheel opening (not nerf bars). Steel wheels are fine if you put on smooth wheel covers to reduce wheel turbulence. Also you can reduce wheel turbulence with wheel well liners (not available for all trucks). Some trucks can also benefit from an aerodynamic wiper cowl molding. Use low rolling resistance tires and use tires that have your rim width as the maximum rim width. This will keep the sidewall more vertical and reduce wheel turbulence. Do an antenna relocation if you have an external antenna. Use winter wiper blades that don't extrude as high off the windshield. Index your spark plugs to point the open gap at the intake valve. Run a great synthetic low friction oil like Royal Purple with synerlec. Use low viscosity ATF from Amsoil if you have a newer generation automatic that spec's dexron vi, mercon lv, toyota ws, honda z1. I managed 30 us mpg with my old 1990 Silverado 2wd. Change to a synthetic gear oil in your diff. Put rare earth magnets on your engine oil filter to help trap metallics in the oil filter instead of letting them circulate in your engine oil. Don't run ethanol blended fuels. Make a belly pan out of some corrugated plastic and support it with bolts, washers, and small boxbar aluminum. Getting an obd2 elm327 unit off ebay and using torque lite on android can be a great way to get all your real time sensor data to monitor how to drive and learn how to drive efficiently. I do agree about having a good set of headers and good exhaust. They help you generate more torque lower down in the rpm range if you have a pushrod. Check out silverado30mpg.t15.org
Covers on the back of a pickup do not actually increase mileage. A shut tailgate and open bed are the best solution. when driving down the road with an open truck bed, the air in the back of the truck creates a low pressure vortex that will keep the faster moving air over the truck, essentially creating a slipstream. If you don't believe me, search for it on google. The Mythbusters did all the testing and came up with these results.
On a gas engine, no you'll never get a significant increase in MPG from intake and exhaust. Wheels you could, depending on weight, shape, and such. For example, if you go from an all terrain tire on a steel rim to a well designed aluminum rim with low rolling resistance, you could see 3-5 MPG increase easily. But in the long run, this is never going to pay its self off in MPG. If you can find rims on a donor truck you have for some reason its worth switching but not worth spending money on. However on a diesel, which doesn't need any back pressure to run properly, reducing air flow restrictions can give an increase of up to 5MPG in some cases... Though a catback even on a diesel wont do much of anything as most the restriction is the cat.
I my self don't have a full size truck caus3 I don't do a lot of big hevy loads but I still lick to have a truck so I have a 97 ranger 2.3 wich gets grate MPG and really I think the tail gate spoiler and the front spliter help alot
most of your tips are spot on, however your advice on cold air and headers is wrong for maximum mpg. cold air is good for power but bad for economy. also backpressure is a good thing because your car or truck is tuned from the factory for it. reducing backpressure is good for power provided you reflash your pcm to maximize the changes. check out some vids from hypermilers. they modify their intakes to take in warmer air vs colder air.
ktumbleweed thanks brother, 2 degrees here and noticed my 2.7 Ecoboost seem to be a tad peppier than it usually is and fuel Milege didn’t seem as good as usual. What you said makes sense!
True, back pressure is a big factor. But he did recommend getting a tuner. If you get a decent tuner you would be able to address that issue. You do have to be very careful with those type of changes though, lots of potential problems when you start messing around with headers. Very expensive and not really getting much for in my opinion, especially with the shorties. today's exhaust manifolds are pretty efficient and I'm not sure how much of a difference it's going to make. A lot of those headers develop leaks, and crack over time. Of course that's a generalization, but I don't think they are as reliable and robust as stock manifolds most of the time
My 2002 GMC 1500 Z71 has been moded and I have true dual exhaust thrush short turbo mufflers no cats internal mods on engine pushing 350-360HP true cold air intake and I stay off freeways drive with cruise on at 60 and get about 21-24MPG but city driving or the winter because it because it idles almost all day and plow snow that drop way down to 10-12MPG on a good day. I think driving habits is really where its at thats the biggest and best you can do. Lukas is a nice product but with your newer fuel injected engines you dont need to run injector cleaners because the gas alone cleans them as gas is a solvent.
AnthonyJ350 that's what makes them a good product I like their transmission and power steering additive. I got a transmission to last over a extra year on an old truck now I add it to all transmission service I done. I also seen it revive a whiny power steering pump. I would always recommend it to customers. I would add it at cost just because its a great product.
AnthonyJ350 it is a nice additive to use for other things then as a cleaner as fuel injected engines don't need a cleaner. I just like to let people know that cleaners are not needed now days. It is also good for the fuel pump to help lower the friction and keep it cool. Just like you should run a car down to or below 1/4 take as the gas itself is what keeps it cool and running below 1/4 take over time causes premature fuel pump failure.
Installing an aftermarket air intake doesn't make sense to me. If you allow more air to flow in the engine, the ECU wants to increase the amount of fuel that is injected, in order to maintain correct air/fuel ratio. This will slightly increase the engine horsepower but it will sacrifice your fuel efficiency. That's just my thoughts, I don't know if that's 100% correct.
Sadžid Smajkić You're right if you open up the throttle a lot it would technically use more fuel. The idea making it easier to breath is if you drive economically it doesn't have to work as hard at lower engine speeds. More modern cars you're seeing free flowing exhaust and simple intake systems compared to the 90's.
Now it makes sense. I might try few of these techniques myself and see the results. I am not so crazy about gas mileage, I just like to experiment and find out what affects it the most. Thanks for the answer.
@@AnthonyJ350 yes and that is also where the tuner comes in as well. I change my intake and the tuner that I purchased has options for different air intakes among other things.
I gotta suggestion get rid of the emissions system completely everything from the cat back, make the pipe larger like on my truck it has a 3in exhaust no cat no muffler (1999 dodge ram 2500 from TEXAS below the salt line none of that nasty ass rust shit.) To fix the check engine light, replace the down stream o2 sensor with a up stream o2 sensor in turn allows it to not run rich. My truck went from having 12.3 miles a gallon hwy 10.6 city to 16.9 hwy 14.2 city. And honestly it does matter, about the drive style when I let comes to doing this.
You could tune the truck to ignore the rear sensors, install high flow cats and run a 14" body Magnaflow, all through a 3" system. It will flow and won't sound so obnoxious.
@@AnthonyJ350 tuning is an option, however you have to buy the tuner which could be expensive. The noise part isn't really all that loud. At least on my truck that is, as soon as I let off the gas you can't really tell it's that loud. (At least in the cab... From the outside it's not that bad either though still a bit loud). the only weird part I would say with the 3" straight, is the fact that i get asked if it's a diesel a lot. Though the options you have provided, are very good one for an increase in mpg if you have the cash to spend.
@@christopherfrantz6223 I prefer dyno tuning because you're confirming you're not leaning out the engine and you can correct other driveability aspects if you're modified.
"If you're not using a truck for what its meant for, then maybe you just shouldn't own a truck." You obviously are not from Texas! Just kidding bro. Love your video. You have some great tips there.
Tonneau cover, cold air intake and less restrictive exhaust system; great advice! I've always wanted an aftermarket intake and exhaust system, never knew they offered better mpg! If I were to only replace the headers rather than the whole exhaust system would it create a bottleneck effect?
Good video, however the bed cover doesn't really mater, neither does the tailgate spoiler. the cab moves enough air that on that truck you shouldn't have the air stream even touching the bed after 45 MPH. I haven't tested any 8' beds, but I'd image they do the same thing at 55 MPH or so.
Also avoid needless application of the brake pedal while driving at speeds of 65mph or higher on the interstate. It seems very simple but many people forget that inconsistent application of the engine at higher speeds results in poor fuel economy and a reduction in vehicle longevity as this can stress out components of a vehicle such as u-joints, transmissions, and drive axles.
If possible, look ahead of traffic in your immediate area. Slowly ease your foot off of the gas pedal to maintain a consistent deceleration engine RPM. When you get good at this process, you'll be able to slow down to a standstill without needing to use the brakes much at all.
AnthonyJ350 Great video btw. I drive a compact pickup truck instead of a full-sized truck. Despite that fact, there is still valuable information I've relearned from this video. Keep it up! And maybe even follow this video up with a part two.
I thought a larger diameter tire gave you better fuel economy? Since it drops down rpm at cruising speed on the street and highway.. only disadvantage is stop and go traffic where the bigger tire takes more gas to get it going
also NO hand held programmer can adjust AF ratio on half open throttle. ONLY and I mean ONLY wide open throttle, which is irrelevant for getting good MPG.
MrKS Did you ever look at the specs of GM's XFE truck? Lowered, air dam, tonneau and a lip spoiler on the tailgate so the vacuum would happen after the truck. That's the science of a manufacturer doing extensive testing for a much longer period of time vs myth busters.
This guy is fucking crazy! Hell no i would not use fuel injector cleaners, i dont want any packagings bust or melt because of that cleaner, just use shell v-power all the time and the motor will run better smoother and faster. If you use regular or plus it just simply is not the same. TRUST ME.
Great video anthonyj350, I have an '84 Ram, great shape. However it is a pig on gas. When I hear people saying "I put a chip in my truck, now it uses less gas", what chip are they describing? Also, since mine is an '84, would it be too old to put a chip in? Do this may be far fetched but would it be worth buying light weight fenders/doors/hood? I'm not sure of a company who makes light weight parts for old trucks but there may be one out there. Thanks
Do you recommend a AEM drop-in dry air filter with the stock air box? I don't want to use the K&N drop-in filter on my 2010 Chevrolet Silverado truck cause I have heard that the oil off of the filter can damage my Mass air flow sensor. What are your thoughts on the AEM dry drop-in air filter? Thanka
I have changed my setup to a Airaid modular intake tube and a K&N drop in filter for serviceability. The reason why people say the pil comes off is because they are over oiling them and dropping them in immediately. Watch this video and I show you a simple trick to avoid that. I just don't see dry filters lasting as long over time or cleaning the air as effectively. ruclips.net/video/GJUAf-CDUSA/видео.html
My Silverado is a '97 7.4L C2500. I'm running Castrol Syntec (now called Edge) in it, and a K&N cold-air intake kit. I change it on a 6000 mile rotation and clean the K&N when it looks like it could use a cleaning. I changed the plugs (Bosch Platinum) and wires (BWD) shortly after I bought it, and haven't touched them since. It's mileage has remained consistent with the mileage when the plugs and wires were new. I have gotten 12.5MPG/City, 15.5MPH/Hwy from it, when driven somewhat conservatively, which is better than the numbers the EPA claims, though that's often not the case, as I'm a bit of a lead-foot.
Yes. All you need to do is make fenders, doors, and the hood out of paper mache. The last and final thing you need to do is install a flux capacitor. 50+mpg, no problem.
I get about 7.5mpg in my 09 2500hd… is that bad? Anybody else getting that? Never had an engine light come on.. but I do have grounding issues and have ha one fuse box go out and have another on its way out.. it has 123000 miles on it
Funny how the government is so worried about fossil fuels yet they dnt add cold air intakes or tune trucks for mikeage. A suburban could wasily come from thw factory with 300hp and 22 to 25 mpg with the rt intakes pluss the parts are so cheap itd barely change the price. If ur soending 60k pluss anyways wtf is an extra grand for better fuel economy.
I have but that shits annoying. its on every little thing."oh no a ford has a scratch on it. that must mean chevy is superior. wow a chevy blew an engine, so that has to mean that dodges can out run anyone" its just getting obnoxious
Is it possible for someone to mention which fuels , with their relevant octane ratings , suit the different engines compression ratios . I know cars with 10:1 compression ratio engines usually use 98 octane fuels . Also if lower octane is all you can get , the spark timing can be altered to tune it to the fuel . Well , that's what I've heard .
Your owners manual should tell you what fuel to use. Some people have the misconception that the higher the octane the better the fuel is. That couldn't be further from the truth. If you put in a higher octane rated fuel than what is needed for your engine, your fuel mileage could go down and you are spending more money than you need to. The higher the octane, the slower the fuel burns given the same compression on the same engine. The octane rating is the fuels resistance to pre combustion. That is when the fuel ignites from the spark plug, and the pressure somewhere else in the cylinder, along with a hot spot ignites the fuel where it shouldn't be ignited yet. When the two flame fronts meet, it creates higher than normal cylinder pressures and makes the knocking noise. Needless to say this isn't good for a lot of engine parts, including gas mileage. If you use the correct octane rated fuel for your vehicle, your mileage shouldn't suffer. There is no really good reference for what fuel to use with certain compression ratios. Every engine will be different. This is due to head choice, camshaft choice, induction choice, header or exhaust manifold choice, timing settings, etc. One engine that you build or have in your vehicle, could and sometimes does, respond differently to fuels. For example; station A gets it's fuel from number 1 fuel farm. Station B gets its fuel from number 2 fuel farm. Both are rated 92 octane, but 1 of them is actually a little better at 93 octane. One day you decide to fill up at station A, which has 92 octane. you have your car tuned to run on the 93 octane, and you notice that a little while after filling up, your car has a little rattle under acceleration. Difference of fuel. What you really need is to run the lowest octane that you can run in your vehicle without pre ignition, and stay with that station. I know I went into a little depth here, You have to understand that even though you may already know what has been said by me, there are a lot of people that read these that may need to hear what I have wrote. I do not know everything as some people will most likely say, I only wrote what I know to be true. If someone can prove me wrong, please let me know. please do it in a respectful way, otherwise I will not even begin to try to change my thoughts.
There are very few production vehicles that require 93 octane fuel, Viper, Vette, and vehicles in that league. 89 is a blend of 87 and 93 and therefore a waste of money. anything requiring 98 octane is on the race track
I would not want to set it to economy settings and loose power just to gain 1-2mpg...my truck is meant for work..and off road fun. I didn't buy a truck cause i wanted good fuel economy, i brought a truck cause i needed (and wanted) one for work and fun. ill take a little less fuel economy for good performance anyday... and I know other people have stated this already, but a Tonneau Cover will do NOTHING to improve mpgs..
the bed cover comment is completely wrong everything that goes in or on a bed ive ever seen hurts the gas mileage the bed creates a vortec that allows the wind to flow smoothly over the bed putting a cover or shell etc will hurt the gasmileage there is one example of one that starts high and then ends at the top of the tailgate im interested in seeing its ability to flow air but 100% of bed covers ive seen actually hurt gasmileage
@@AnthonyJ350 dealers also come with bigger wheels and other non gasmileage saving parts its aerodynamics you cant fight the physics these covers help keep your stuff locked up or dry which is nice but that does not help gas mileage literally go google the results youll see that this claim is 100% false
A good tune for the environment you live in. Elevation makes a difference. A good intake manifold and a carb spacer would help because of where fuel is delivered.
If you change your oil every 3000 miles your wasting your money. It has been proven. You can go somewhere around 5,000 miles. Use a full synthetic oil and a good quality filter. I use Mobil One in the Volvo and Jeep every 7500. Synthetic is a much better quality oil and will last longer than conventional and the flow in winter is much quicker. Check out the testing of Mobil One vs others in cold and extreme cold weather.
Good video but in all honesty a cold air intake will not give you better fuel mileage, and of course neither a throttle body spacer or programming. It's a in foot control. A cold sorry intake brings more air in Yes, but in turn the ecu mixes more fuel so maybe 5-10 hp but No gains. Tbs is worthless don't even worry with those. They may help tbi trucks 94 and older. A programmer with tunes already set in it will give you some power but nothing like a custom in person tune trust me I've had both
exhaust intake and a tune specifically for economy will increase fuel mileage however you are correct if you just do a intake the stock ecu will adjust however he discussed doing a tuner for economy not performance it will lower the power band and throttle response with that said I only rec a tuner if it comes with three or more tunes economy 87 towing 87 towing 93 and performance tune if you want all with hurt your gasmileage except the economy 87octane
AnthonyJ350 ok. Thanks, I have a 2014 Ford F-150 5.0 with 134,700k miles should I use the 5w-20 ford motor craft oil I bought it with 129700k miles so my first oil change myself
@@connorbarnett7494 I would check out this RUclipsr. He is a Ford tech and has a lot of insight of what engine oil to use etc ruclips.net/user/FordTechMakuloco
Finally someone who really understands how best to drive and modify your pickup. I use my pickup strickly for towing RVs. I lowered the rear 3 inches and 1 mpg , = 10% increase, installed used topper and added a deflector with extension to back of topper with vortex generators and increased mpg 18%. The lower dam in front is good idea. Irun high pressure in tires and installed 10 ply. and drive 55mph from Florida to Washington state yearly and save a bundle of $. Alway stay in right lane and be extremely courteous to truck drivers and they will appreciate it. California law is 55mph for all trailers. It makes for a lot more relaxing trip and doesn't to a lot longer. Start slow and look way ahead and around. Formula for speed or wind pressure is velocity squared by .0256 will give you pressure per square foot x area. About 23% less at 55 compared to 70mph which means fewer fuel stops. Relax and enjoy the ride.
Thanks for sharing all your experience! Lowering is a good idea for tow rigs. I saw a semi truck and the front bumper was only a few inches off the ground to prevent air from getting under the truck.
What tire pressure do you run.
MY WIFE AND I STAY AT HOME A LOT - DOESN'T HELP ON MPG BUT THE OVER-ALL FUEL COSTS STAY WAY DOWN - LOL!!!!!!!
THIS WAS A GOOD DOWN TO EARTH VIDEO WITH MANY GOOD TIPS I THINK WILL HELP A LOT - THANKS - AND BRAVO!!!!!!!
THANK YOU FOR WATCHING!
@@AnthonyJ350
YOU ARE VERY WELCOME, IT WAS A GOOD VIDEO!!!!!!!
@@AnthonyJ350😂😂 matching the energy
@@slicenrice9236 You have to lol
this is a very good video not only for trucks but for passenger cars too. i was expecting small facts that everyone knew but you went the extra mile and practically when through most of the main systems to maximize fuel economy. i would expand on driving habits cuz that is a big one. people floor it on green like if theyre racing to the next red light.
Keeping the revs as low as possible, vacuum as high as possible, coasting (off the throttle or on neutral) as much as possible and not exceeding 65mph on the freeway and avoiding high traffic or slow speed areas will help tremendously.
Thanks for watching!
More cash has been poured in this truck than will ever be spent on fuel... having said that, this video was cool to watch and well formulated.
To be fair, I have owned the truck for 14 years.
This video wouldn't really be beneficial if you owned the vehicle for 4 years or less
Driving habits on a well maintained vehicle give better results than all the others combined. Driving habits include a lot more than how fast you accelerate and stop.
Totally agree
Another good way to gain an extra 5 mpg is to 'follow' someone on the road. Drive behind someone on a safe distance cause he is pushing all the wind in front of u. Tried thin on my honda car and it works.
Good tips. Regarding the aerodynamics and the rear spoiler. It actually does help as you stated it correctly. Check out this video by Ford regarding aerodynamics. The low pressure in the truck bed created by the passing air flow makes air flow over the truck bed. The tail gate up = less drag.
F-150 Aerodynamics: Where Art Meets Science
F-150 Aerodynamics: Where Art Meets Science
Alryt I'm happy to see another Canadian doing these improves!! Thanks for the video. The conditions in our severe weather does affect the engine performance in general. so I believe these are really good tips and when followed in ideal weather conditions around; the world I think it should improvise fuel efficiency big time.
Thanks for watching!
On the highway if you drive it nice it's around 10% so a gain of an extra 2MPG.
Thank you for the tips. However, I am more impressed with adding hydrogen from ammonia in a fuel cell or adding a fuel vaporizer. Both of those can improve performance, cleaner emissions and mileage gain up to 40% at a much less costs.
How do this work if can more info plz??
I did everything he said and went from 16 mpg to 53 mpg Thanks dude
Bullshit!
Every two hundred miles I have to drain the gas tank or it will overflow
One other tip is stay away from ethanol blended fuels. Ethanol as less energy per volume then gasoline.
Great tip! I prefer Shell 91 in my area right now.
@Tj Semeniuk Shell 91 cost more than Chevron 91 because in my area Chevron offers 94 octane.
I now use Shell 93 in my car and 87 for my daily.
All very good advice BUT just a few points I'd like to add/correct:
(1) after-market conical air filters are not meant for low revving cars
(2) giving less resistence to air in the intake will not give you better performance unless you tune acordingly the ECU
(3) longer piping is good for low rev high torque, shorter piping will yield higher torque at higher RPMs (you did mention this correctly in the video)
You covered a lot of topics and you did it very well. Great tips
I like gen 2 gas Rams. With oversized plug wires, good plugs, MSD coil, new filter I got 4-5 mpgs on my 2000 4x4. I got the exhaust to do next.
I already went from 10-12 mpgs to 14-17. Plus power. She was sluggish at first.
O yeah and recently the Big Gulp throttle body which really kicked it up a notch.
I wanna do the intake next
Nice!
The one thing you did not say about tires is the width. A narrower tire lowers your friction on the road or highway and you get more mpg.
1stprinceoflite That is totally correct, thanks for pointing that out.
@@AnthonyJ350 true, and to go along with something u said before, the type of tires. You have the option of choosing wider or skinnier tires and also the load rating. If you choose something that's e-rated it will have more plies and will be much heavier and sturdier. Normally wouldn't be needed unless you are going to be loading your vehicle more, but some people don't look at that and it does add up when you are looking at four tires
Air raide throttle body riser, headers, large solar panel, K&N air filter, Lucas injection cleaner, removed the pump that pumps air into my exhuast, Air pressure to 38 psi on tires. I am at about 1000+ km on a 110 liter fill with my 88 chev extended cab long box 350 motor virtually all highway and very conservative driving
That's awesome! Driving habits are a big factor.
In running a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 HD (Classic Body style) with a 6.0L gasser..Darn thing was sitting at like 27.8L/ 100 km at one point; however, I soon realized that just accelerating and breaking slower helped drop it down to 21.9L/ 100 km. Its not the best, but it helped me.
Thanks for sharing! What size tires are you running?
My dad has a K&N on his Cummins... Runs great!
Thanks for sharing!
I don't know if modifying the truck with proven bolt ons will break the truck. You might be doing something wrong there if you are. Also trucks are going to depreciate no matter what. You might as well build it up and enjoy the thing. I just haven't seen anyone personally break their vehicle due to using a recognized brand for intake and exhaust.
definitely sounded like you were about to start laughing at the end. "maybe you shouldnt own a full size truck". There are a lot of people in the US that drive trucks just so they can drive a truck. Which thats ok, i prefer driving a truck to a sedan, but its not very smart as a primary reason!
Yaaaa I crack myself up sometimes. Annnnnd then I have to edit it out.
That's a beautiful thing, you don't really need a good reason. As long as that's what you like, that's what's important.
Nice video with lots of helpful tips. Thanks.
One thing that bothers me about newer trucks is how tall they are. Vehicle height makes a big difference in fuel economy (drag) at highway speeds.
Great point!
Engineers already done quite a few are dynamic studies on pickup trucks and found that a tonneau cover is pretty much useless unless you integrate the rear spoiler and a cab top rear spoiler. Otherwise tonneau cover alone still creates excessive drag behind each vertical wall.
Ford thinks the tonneau cover works in conjunction with the tailgate spoiler ruclips.net/video/oEkiDsVGr9c/видео.html
Dang canucks, gave us John Candy and great RUclips Videos, awesome job. Also Hockey where they still stand when the National Anthems is played.
Thanks for watching!
First I would start with this if you just get a car start with doing brakes all around including any bushings rotors and calipers or for my truck drums in the back then start with an oil change clean air filter and intake flush all old fluids out change out spark plugs and wires sea foam and fuel stabilizer then work on bolt ons after you tackle all those areas
Thanks for sharing!
Wow! Look at those sexy gas prices compared to 2022 prices. 🤦🏻♂️
Keep in mind it's dollar per litre in the video.
Thanks! I'm an installer by trade, and a hobbyist on weekends.
high tire pressure will get you better mpg it reduces the surface area of the tire in contact with the road and allows it to roll easier. you can test your self with any inflatable round object roll it down a hard surface with high air pressure and low and see for your self with rolls easier.
Won't you get uneven wear?
when you say high tire pressure do you mean the max PSI listed on the actual Tire or are you over filling it?
@@AnthonyJ350 Only above max tire pressure.
@@nikkowhite7732 I won't go over max tire pressure. but the pressure for a vehicle is listed in the data inside the driver side door. don't go to far above that though or it will wear out your suspension to fast.
Yes on the magnets in filtration system! Excellent, informative video-a thing or two I had not yet thought/heard of~thanks for that....also love that last part as well..."maybe you just should'nt own a full size truck"~amen to that, quit griping people-it's a truck!
+RV thereyet? Haha, thanks for the comment :)
taller tires will change your gear ration to a higher number. i.e. from 3.55 to 3.23 for example. this will decrease your engine rpm and increase fuel mileage. I have a 99 ram 2wd 5.9 magnum, with 130k on it. when new this truck was rated at 15mpg city, 17 hwy. I now get 16.5 combined with a change from the 22575r16 tires to a 24575r16, kn cold air system, flowmaster exhaust and 180 vs 195 tstat. I drive this truck 90 miles round trip every day 6 days a week. And by the way, I stand on it every chance I get
Big ranch hand cost me 1mpg on a 3/4 ton 4x4. I've hit 2 deer with the truck and I'm glad to give up a mpg to save lights grille and hood
Thanks for the comment, we just did a video covering grille guards ruclips.net/video/aOja7O9IiWA/видео.html
I use and add DIECYL to the dieselfuel .........incresased protection and decreseased fuel consumption .......... 4.3 L diesel for 100 Km ( = 1.05669 Gallon for 62.137 miles )
What type of fuel system do you have??? Ya making the truck a little lighter would help if you do a lot of city driving. You have to evaluate the cost though. If those parts cost a lot, it might take a long time to get your money back. You might as well put that money towards gas. As far as tunes, the ecu should be tuned more towards economy as opposed to performance.
Definately add Lucas injector cleaner. I also add slick 50 with oil change sometimes
Thanks for sharing 🙂 What's the mileage on your vehicle now?
@@AnthonyJ350 290,000kms
@@JohnDoe12515 That's awesome, good job 👍
Do you a before mpg and after you made all these mods mpg?
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! SOMETHING TO CONSIDER. THANKS FOR SHARING!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Two Spiralmaxes in the exhaust tip is one of best buys.
Thanks for the comment!
2004 silverado 5.3 gets 15.5 in town with 31'' at tires and 2'' leveling kit. And power like a sumbitch.
there is nothing about the engine being colder that is going to tell the ECU to send less fuel into the combustion chamber. there is also nothing about a fresh or new air filter that will tell the ECU to send less fuel to the combustion chamber. If you disagree then you simply dont understand fuel injected motor fuel delivery systems.
Yeah cold air intake is terrible for efficiency. Use a warm air intake with a high flow filter. Running boards are fine for aerodynamics if they're the ones that seal to the body and the rear of the front wheel opening and the front of the rear wheel opening (not nerf bars). Steel wheels are fine if you put on smooth wheel covers to reduce wheel turbulence. Also you can reduce wheel turbulence with wheel well liners (not available for all trucks). Some trucks can also benefit from an aerodynamic wiper cowl molding. Use low rolling resistance tires and use tires that have your rim width as the maximum rim width. This will keep the sidewall more vertical and reduce wheel turbulence. Do an antenna relocation if you have an external antenna. Use winter wiper blades that don't extrude as high off the windshield. Index your spark plugs to point the open gap at the intake valve. Run a great synthetic low friction oil like Royal Purple with synerlec. Use low viscosity ATF from Amsoil if you have a newer generation automatic that spec's dexron vi, mercon lv, toyota ws, honda z1. I managed 30 us mpg with my old 1990 Silverado 2wd. Change to a synthetic gear oil in your diff. Put rare earth magnets on your engine oil filter to help trap metallics in the oil filter instead of letting them circulate in your engine oil. Don't run ethanol blended fuels. Make a belly pan out of some corrugated plastic and support it with bolts, washers, and small boxbar aluminum. Getting an obd2 elm327 unit off ebay and using torque lite on android can be a great way to get all your real time sensor data to monitor how to drive and learn how to drive efficiently. I do agree about having a good set of headers and good exhaust. They help you generate more torque lower down in the rpm range if you have a pushrod.
Check out silverado30mpg.t15.org
Actually cleaning each fuel injector or even better replacing them. Will give them more significant increase in fuel economy.
What about regularly using a fuel treatment like Lucas? I haven't noticed a significant change in fuel economy for 14 years
Your truck has spark advanced tables for low and high octane so high octane can give you better mpg and performance
Thanks for sharing!
Best MPG Gainer: cruise control, tire pressure, throttle control and common sense (unfortunately no longer common). Lol
100% agree
Covers on the back of a pickup do not actually increase mileage. A shut tailgate and open bed are the best solution. when driving down the road with an open truck bed, the air in the back of the truck creates a low pressure vortex that will keep the faster moving air over the truck, essentially creating a slipstream. If you don't believe me, search for it on google. The Mythbusters did all the testing and came up with these results.
This video in the wind tunnel says the tonneau cover will work the best ruclips.net/video/oEkiDsVGr9c/видео.html
Not sure if spending $2000+ on new wheels, cat back exhaust, and headers is worth the 2-3mpg they might get you in the long run...
On a gas engine, no you'll never get a significant increase in MPG from intake and exhaust. Wheels you could, depending on weight, shape, and such. For example, if you go from an all terrain tire on a steel rim to a well designed aluminum rim with low rolling resistance, you could see 3-5 MPG increase easily. But in the long run, this is never going to pay its self off in MPG. If you can find rims on a donor truck you have for some reason its worth switching but not worth spending money on.
However on a diesel, which doesn't need any back pressure to run properly, reducing air flow restrictions can give an increase of up to 5MPG in some cases... Though a catback even on a diesel wont do much of anything as most the restriction is the cat.
I my self don't have a full size truck caus3 I don't do a lot of big hevy loads but I still lick to have a truck so I have a 97 ranger 2.3 wich gets grate MPG and really I think the tail gate spoiler and the front spliter help alot
what do you lick, to have your truck?
most of your tips are spot on, however your advice on cold air and headers is wrong for maximum mpg. cold air is good for power but bad for economy. also backpressure is a good thing because your car or truck is tuned from the factory for it. reducing backpressure is good for power provided you reflash your pcm to maximize the changes. check out some vids from hypermilers. they modify their intakes to take in warmer air vs colder air.
ktumbleweed thanks brother, 2 degrees here and noticed my 2.7 Ecoboost seem to be a tad peppier than it usually is and fuel Milege didn’t seem as good as usual. What you said makes sense!
True, back pressure is a big factor. But he did recommend getting a tuner. If you get a decent tuner you would be able to address that issue. You do have to be very careful with those type of changes though, lots of potential problems when you start messing around with headers. Very expensive and not really getting much for in my opinion, especially with the shorties. today's exhaust manifolds are pretty efficient and I'm not sure how much of a difference it's going to make. A lot of those headers develop leaks, and crack over time. Of course that's a generalization, but I don't think they are as reliable and robust as stock manifolds most of the time
Back pressure is not a good thing. You want to maximize exhaust gas flow. Very different but gets people confused a lot.
My 2002 GMC 1500 Z71 has been moded and I have true dual exhaust thrush short turbo mufflers no cats internal mods on engine pushing 350-360HP true cold air intake and I stay off freeways drive with cruise on at 60 and get about 21-24MPG but city driving or the winter because it because it idles almost all day and plow snow that drop way down to 10-12MPG on a good day. I think driving habits is really where its at thats the biggest and best you can do. Lukas is a nice product but with your newer fuel injected engines you dont need to run injector cleaners because the gas alone cleans them as gas is a solvent.
Boot 185 I like the Lucas for the lubricating properties. It's suppose to give similar benefits as lead as far as lubrication.
AnthonyJ350 that's what makes them a good product I like their transmission and power steering additive. I got a transmission to last over a extra year on an old truck now I add it to all transmission service I done. I also seen it revive a whiny power steering pump. I would always recommend it to customers. I would add it at cost just because its a great product.
Boot 185 Wait so do you agree putting it in the fuel or not?
AnthonyJ350 it is a nice additive to use for other things then as a cleaner as fuel injected engines don't need a cleaner. I just like to let people know that cleaners are not needed now days. It is also good for the fuel pump to help lower the friction and keep it cool. Just like you should run a car down to or below 1/4 take as the gas itself is what keeps it cool and running below 1/4 take over time causes premature fuel pump failure.
Boot 185 Ahhh I see.
Installing an aftermarket air intake doesn't make sense to me. If you allow more air to flow in the engine, the ECU wants to increase the amount of fuel that is injected, in order to maintain correct air/fuel ratio. This will slightly increase the engine horsepower but it will sacrifice your fuel efficiency. That's just my thoughts, I don't know if that's 100% correct.
Sadžid Smajkić You're right if you open up the throttle a lot it would technically use more fuel. The idea making it easier to breath is if you drive economically it doesn't have to work as hard at lower engine speeds. More modern cars you're seeing free flowing exhaust and simple intake systems compared to the 90's.
Now it makes sense. I might try few of these techniques myself and see the results. I am not so crazy about gas mileage, I just like to experiment and find out what affects it the most.
Thanks for the answer.
@@AnthonyJ350 yes and that is also where the tuner comes in as well. I change my intake and the tuner that I purchased has options for different air intakes among other things.
I gotta suggestion get rid of the emissions system completely everything from the cat back, make the pipe larger like on my truck it has a 3in exhaust no cat no muffler (1999 dodge ram 2500 from TEXAS below the salt line none of that nasty ass rust shit.) To fix the check engine light, replace the down stream o2 sensor with a up stream o2 sensor in turn allows it to not run rich. My truck went from having 12.3 miles a gallon hwy 10.6 city to 16.9 hwy 14.2 city. And honestly it does matter, about the drive style when I let comes to doing this.
You could tune the truck to ignore the rear sensors, install high flow cats and run a 14" body Magnaflow, all through a 3" system. It will flow and won't sound so obnoxious.
@@AnthonyJ350 tuning is an option, however you have to buy the tuner which could be expensive. The noise part isn't really all that loud. At least on my truck that is, as soon as I let off the gas you can't really tell it's that loud. (At least in the cab... From the outside it's not that bad either though still a bit loud). the only weird part I would say with the 3" straight, is the fact that i get asked if it's a diesel a lot. Though the options you have provided, are very good one for an increase in mpg if you have the cash to spend.
@@christopherfrantz6223 I prefer dyno tuning because you're confirming you're not leaning out the engine and you can correct other driveability aspects if you're modified.
"If you're not using a truck for what its meant for, then maybe you just shouldn't own a truck." You obviously are not from Texas! Just kidding bro. Love your video. You have some great tips there.
Tonneau cover, cold air intake and less restrictive exhaust system; great advice! I've always wanted an aftermarket intake and exhaust system, never knew they offered better mpg! If I were to only replace the headers rather than the whole exhaust system would it create a bottleneck effect?
I would like to know that too
I would guess it depends on how it reacts with the rest of the exhaust
Good video, however the bed cover doesn't really mater, neither does the tailgate spoiler. the cab moves enough air that on that truck you shouldn't have the air stream even touching the bed after 45 MPH. I haven't tested any 8' beds, but I'd image they do the same thing at 55 MPH or so.
Good tips and not just for trucks.
rodriguez hill Glad it helped!
Also avoid needless application of the brake pedal while driving at speeds of 65mph or higher on the interstate. It seems very simple but many people forget that inconsistent application of the engine at higher speeds results in poor fuel economy and a reduction in vehicle longevity as this can stress out components of a vehicle such as u-joints, transmissions, and drive axles.
If possible, look ahead of traffic in your immediate area. Slowly ease your foot off of the gas pedal to maintain a consistent deceleration engine RPM. When you get good at this process, you'll be able to slow down to a standstill without needing to use the brakes much at all.
Great tips!
AnthonyJ350 Great video btw. I drive a compact pickup truck instead of a full-sized truck. Despite that fact, there is still valuable information I've relearned from this video. Keep it up! And maybe even follow this video up with a part two.
You suggest doing alot of small things to a truck. They all count!
Yup, adds up to a better running and sometimes more reliable truck.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO...I LEARNED A FEW TRICKS
I live in montana. So the heavy snow tires, the 250lbs steel bumper and a canopy are required. I guess I can just forget about good gas mileage
Good driving habits will reduce fuel consumption and reduce wear on other parts
I thought a larger diameter tire gave you better fuel economy? Since it drops down rpm at cruising speed on the street and highway.. only disadvantage is stop and go traffic where the bigger tire takes more gas to get it going
Integra DIY you're absolutely right but you have to consider the rolling resistance (highway tire vs all terrain) and added width.
Best way to emotive mpg is reduce weight, get a small light car :-)
also NO hand held programmer can adjust AF ratio on half open throttle. ONLY and I mean ONLY wide open throttle, which is irrelevant for getting good MPG.
Beautiful indeed. well presented. thumbs up
Thanks for watching!
Did you not watch the myth busters episode that busts the myth of better gas mileage on a truck with and without a tonnue cover.... it's science man
it was eather that or tailgate up or down...
MrKS Did you ever look at the specs of GM's XFE truck? Lowered, air dam, tonneau and a lip spoiler on the tailgate so the vacuum would happen after the truck. That's the science of a manufacturer doing extensive testing for a much longer period of time vs myth busters.
MrKS Also most people get a tonneau to conceal their belongings anyways.
AnthonyJ350 well then... myth not busted
MrKS Myth Busters is really intelligent but they only explore the topic so far with limited time.
It's a losing battle trying to squeeze the little bit of mpg out of a truck. I drive a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 and I get like 12 mpg.
City? What do you get on the highway?
There is 91 octane here in Australia with ethanol in it .
This guy is fucking crazy! Hell no i would not use fuel injector cleaners, i dont want any packagings bust or melt because of that cleaner, just use shell v-power all the time and the motor will run better smoother and faster. If you use regular or plus it just simply is not the same. TRUST ME.
Where did you get your spoiler/tailgate cap from??? I looked everywhere and cant find one like yours...just found the direct stock replacement...
Switchbladeakc Got it from the dealership. I believe LMC truck will carry it as well.
AnthonyJ350 thank you!!☺
Best tip- "maybe you shouldn't own a full size truck"
What can I say, I'm a straight shooter.
I miss the 1.28 a litre days
I miss .99 cents per litre days lol
Great video anthonyj350,
I have an '84 Ram, great shape. However it is a pig on gas. When I hear people saying "I put a chip in my truck, now it uses less gas", what chip are they describing? Also, since mine is an '84, would it be too old to put a chip in?
Do this may be far fetched but would it be worth buying light weight fenders/doors/hood? I'm not sure of a company who makes light weight parts for old trucks but there may be one out there.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. Helps
Thanks for watching!
You only need to change your spark plugs every 160,934 Kilometers!!
They're not that expensive, so I don't mind changing them prematurely
Do you recommend a AEM drop-in dry air filter with the stock air box? I don't want to use the K&N drop-in filter on my 2010 Chevrolet Silverado truck cause I have heard that the oil off of the filter can damage my Mass air flow sensor. What are your thoughts on the AEM dry drop-in air filter? Thanka
I have changed my setup to a Airaid modular intake tube and a K&N drop in filter for serviceability. The reason why people say the pil comes off is because they are over oiling them and dropping them in immediately. Watch this video and I show you a simple trick to avoid that. I just don't see dry filters lasting as long over time or cleaning the air as effectively.
ruclips.net/video/GJUAf-CDUSA/видео.html
Get the green drop in filter.
Look at the gas price back then, it was crazy
Ya shure, liters in Canadian Pesos
Plug-change @ 1000 Km! You're changing your spark plugs at a little over half their scheduled maintenance life.
Yes and no. Inspect, clean and re-gap, if there is sufficient electrode left.
Oh boy :D
I run that 1000km in two weeks and you can bet I am not changing spark plugs that often. Maybe 40 000 km ;)
My Silverado is a '97 7.4L C2500. I'm running Castrol Syntec (now called Edge) in it, and a K&N cold-air intake kit. I change it on a 6000 mile rotation and clean the K&N when it looks like it could use a cleaning. I changed the plugs (Bosch Platinum) and wires (BWD) shortly after I bought it, and haven't touched them since. It's mileage has remained consistent with the mileage when the plugs and wires were new. I have gotten 12.5MPG/City, 15.5MPH/Hwy from it, when driven somewhat conservatively, which is better than the numbers the EPA claims, though that's often not the case, as I'm a bit of a lead-foot.
100000 kilometers not 1000. Go rewatch.
Yes. All you need to do is make fenders, doors, and the hood out of paper mache. The last and final thing you need to do is install a flux capacitor. 50+mpg, no problem.
Good information
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I get about 7.5mpg in my 09 2500hd… is that bad? Anybody else getting that? Never had an engine light come on.. but I do have grounding issues and have ha one fuse box go out and have another on its way out.. it has 123000 miles on it
Highway or city?
Funny how the government is so worried about fossil fuels yet they dnt add cold air intakes or tune trucks for mikeage. A suburban could wasily come from thw factory with 300hp and 22 to 25 mpg with the rt intakes pluss the parts are so cheap itd barely change the price. If ur soending 60k pluss anyways wtf is an extra grand for better fuel economy.
Thanks for watching!
jreyman. He said 100,000 kilometers, not 1000 kilometer. If you made a misprint, please ignore this. We all make mistakes from time to time.
Oh...
I thought Fords had those things on the tailgate to help you push...
+TheTrinityKid dude, shut the fuck up. this is about better fuel economy. not which is better.
It's this thing called "humor." Perhaps you've heard of it?
I have but that shits annoying. its on every little thing."oh no a ford has a scratch on it. that must mean chevy is superior. wow a chevy blew an engine, so that has to mean that dodges can out run anyone" its just getting obnoxious
+Nick Weber (Sid) it is about mpg. you lose it pushing or pulling Ford 😁
What is a good speed to get better gas mileage? Like 55? 60?
Probably the slower one so 55. Unless you're geared to where the vehicle is lugging at 55.
Is it possible for someone to mention which fuels , with their relevant octane ratings , suit the different engines compression ratios . I know cars with 10:1 compression ratio engines usually use 98 octane fuels . Also if lower octane is all you can get , the spark timing can be altered to tune it to the fuel . Well , that's what I've heard .
Your owners manual should tell you what fuel to use. Some people have the misconception that the higher the octane the better the fuel is. That couldn't be further from the truth.
If you put in a higher octane rated fuel than what is needed for your engine, your fuel mileage could go down and you are spending more money than you need to.
The higher the octane, the slower the fuel burns given the same compression on the same engine. The octane rating is the fuels resistance to pre combustion. That is when the fuel ignites from the spark plug, and the pressure somewhere else in the cylinder, along with a hot spot ignites the fuel where it shouldn't be ignited yet. When the two flame fronts meet, it creates higher than normal cylinder pressures and makes the knocking noise. Needless to say this isn't good for a lot of engine parts, including gas mileage.
If you use the correct octane rated fuel for your vehicle, your mileage shouldn't suffer.
There is no really good reference for what fuel to use with certain compression ratios. Every engine will be different. This is due to head choice, camshaft choice, induction choice, header or exhaust manifold choice, timing settings, etc.
One engine that you build or have in your vehicle, could and sometimes does, respond differently to fuels. For example; station A gets it's fuel from number 1 fuel farm. Station B gets its fuel from number 2 fuel farm. Both are rated 92 octane, but 1 of them is actually a little better at 93 octane. One day you decide to fill up at station A, which has 92 octane. you have your car tuned to run on the 93 octane, and you notice that a little while after filling up, your car has a little rattle under acceleration. Difference of fuel.
What you really need is to run the lowest octane that you can run in your vehicle without pre ignition, and stay with that station.
I know I went into a little depth here, You have to understand that even though you may already know what has been said by me, there are a lot of people that read these that may need to hear what I have wrote.
I do not know everything as some people will most likely say, I only wrote what I know to be true. If someone can prove me wrong, please let me know. please do it in a respectful way, otherwise I will not even begin to try to change my thoughts.
There are very few production vehicles that require 93 octane fuel, Viper, Vette, and vehicles in that league. 89 is a blend of 87 and 93 and therefore a waste of money. anything requiring 98 octane is on the race track
I thought this was supposed to be for a truck and not a pickup truck lol big difference
James Jensen Sorry about the misunderstanding. Ummm put those side skirts on the bottom of your trailer :)
My 2011 Honda sportbike has just over 15,000 Ks on it. ZDoes it need new oxygen sensor or spark plug? or a MAF sensor cleaning?
What are the maintenance intervals stated in your owner's manual?
buy one for using it hardly wait till its an antique then sell it lol
I would not want to set it to economy settings and loose power just to gain 1-2mpg...my truck is meant for work..and off road fun. I didn't buy a truck cause i wanted good fuel economy, i brought a truck cause i needed (and wanted) one for work and fun. ill take a little less fuel economy for good performance anyday... and I know other people have stated this already, but a Tonneau Cover will do NOTHING to improve mpgs..
My Diablo Sport still gave me power increases and much better driveability on the economy setting. Every tuning company is different though.
Then why exactly did you even watch the video...?
the bed cover comment is completely wrong everything that goes in or on a bed ive ever seen hurts the gas mileage the bed creates a vortec that allows the wind to flow smoothly over the bed putting a cover or shell etc will hurt the gasmileage there is one example of one that starts high and then ends at the top of the tailgate im interested in seeing its ability to flow air but 100% of bed covers ive seen actually hurt gasmileage
But then why did the old XFE Silverado and Sierra come equipped with them?
@@AnthonyJ350 dealers also come with bigger wheels and other non gasmileage saving parts its aerodynamics you cant fight the physics these covers help keep your stuff locked up or dry which is nice but that does not help gas mileage literally go google the results youll see that this claim is 100% false
This video in the wind tunnel says tonneau covers do work ruclips.net/video/oEkiDsVGr9c/видео.html
Like how you use Syria tube intro .
Thanks for the feedback!
how about SU carburetors? how do we save up fuel consumption?
A good tune for the environment you live in. Elevation makes a difference. A good intake manifold and a carb spacer would help because of where fuel is delivered.
What motor do u have and whats your best mpg ?
I have a 4.8L. I think the best recorded on a trip was about 21 MPG. Keep in mind it wasn't flat but we did log about 600KM on that trip.
To do so install hydrogen system that's what I've done
I don't understand
Do not use a programmer if gives you more power that your truck is not made for. Like your transmission
Blake Bonner Good thing I have a rebuilt performance 4L60E. Just put it on the lowest setting. If you go all out you risk damaging something.
If you change your oil every 3000 miles your wasting your money. It has been proven. You can go somewhere around 5,000 miles. Use a full synthetic oil and a good quality filter. I use Mobil One in the Volvo and Jeep every 7500. Synthetic is a much better quality oil and will last longer than conventional and the flow in winter is much quicker. Check out the testing of Mobil One vs others in cold and extreme cold weather.
When I talk numbers it's metric. So kilometers in this case.
is a performance tuner the same as a performance chip?
Pretty much yes.
Good video but in all honesty a cold air intake will not give you better fuel mileage, and of course neither a throttle body spacer or programming. It's a in foot control. A cold sorry intake brings more air in Yes, but in turn the ecu mixes more fuel so maybe 5-10 hp but No gains. Tbs is worthless don't even worry with those. They may help tbi trucks 94 and older. A programmer with tunes already set in it will give you some power but nothing like a custom in person tune trust me I've had both
exhaust intake and a tune specifically for economy will increase fuel mileage however you are correct if you just do a intake the stock ecu will adjust however he discussed doing a tuner for economy not performance it will lower the power band and throttle response with that said I only rec a tuner if it comes with three or more tunes economy 87 towing 87 towing 93 and performance tune if you want all with hurt your gasmileage except the economy 87octane
Should I change my oil every 5k mike?
I still would. Fresh oil will make an engine last longer. I'm not a fan if extended drain intervals
AnthonyJ350 ok. Thanks, I have a 2014 Ford F-150 5.0 with 134,700k miles should I use the 5w-20 ford motor craft oil I bought it with 129700k miles so my first oil change myself
@@connorbarnett7494 I would check out this RUclipsr. He is a Ford tech and has a lot of insight of what engine oil to use etc ruclips.net/user/FordTechMakuloco
AnthonyJ350 ok thank you!
Love it, straight to the point. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and keeping the bs out :)
Glad you liked it!
What kind of MPG do you get?
On the highway 19-21. City it's like 12-15, but these engines never performed well for city economy.
What about lowering your tailgate !
Ford did a wind tunnel test and apparently isn't as good.
Check out www.ecomodder.com Those guys have exhaustively research what does and doesn't improve fuel economy.
Thanks for sharing!