I used to be a draught manager for AB: fyi- if your beer is coming out foamy its because the the beer tower pipes aren't insulated. If you add some thin insulation to the inside walls of the pipe, it'll help tremendously. You might have a problem as well with your insulated beer lines coming out of the keg box. If you beer comes out over 38 degrees you'll see a lot of foam.
I did end up insulating the tower. I may run a glycol line at some point to keep it more consistent but its been working great so far! Appreciate the comment though!
The compressor in a freezer is designed for low temperature application and it is designed to reduce the temperature of the freezer to -10F at start up and reduce the temperature from room temperature to -10F, one time. A compressor operates at the pressures at which the boiling refrigerant creates at a certain temperature. So, a low temp compressor at -10F conditioned space temperature operates at a very low pressure, maybe 0 PSIG, depending on the type of refrigerant, and the refrigerant entering the compressor cools the motor in the compressor as it runs. When a low temperature compressor is forced to operate at keezer temperature the pressure of the refrigerant will be higher than the compressor is designed to operate at and the temperature of the refrigerant that cools the compressor will be higher. To start and stop a low temperature compressor under a high heat load, continuously, that is designed to reduce the heat load one time, then cycle maybe once or twice a day; at keezer temperature the higher temperature overloads the compressor and shortens the life cycle of the compressor. To keep people safe, the manufacturer installs an over current protector or a high temperature protector in a compressor, which can act like a thermostat cycling the compressor off and on under a high pressure, high heat event, which burns out the compressor. You may have missed the refrigeration part of Mechanical Engineering.
I used kegco shanks however the 3-1/8 “ ones are technically too long and I had to modify my tower to work. I would buy your tower components first assemble it and measure the depth you need before purchasing. The link attached is what I used for reference Kegco SHANK3-ASC 3-1/8" Long All SS Contact Shank with Nipple Assembly - 3/16" I.D. Bore www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAY452G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ufLxxfP4RdcZ8
Everything was bought at the hardware store, you need 2 90’s, 1 tee, two nipples, 1 long nipple, a pipe flange and 2 reducer couplings! The length/size really depends on personal preference but I recommend making it tall enough to get the glass below the beer faucet!
@@jamesofalltradesny What diameter of pipe did you use? Would John Guest fitting help when spinning the elbows in place? Do you have any issues with the first pour being warm?
@@imlon2 I used 2” pipe, and insulated the inside with pipe insulation to keep the beer cold in the lines. Being that the parties we do typically require constant pouring we haven’t had any issue. I could see if it sits in the line for a while it will definitely get warm but you can always pour off the first oz or two to correct this. You could definitely use a fitting like that, I didn’t think of it at the time I was building it
The fan I used is available on Amazon and it’s listed as, AC Infinity AXIAL 1225, Quiet Muffin Fan, 120V AC 120mm x 25mm Low Speed, UL-Certified for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects
@@jamesofalltradesny All good. Thanks for the reply. I was just really interested in that industrial pipe tap tower. Actually a very cool idea but I think I got the gist.
great vid, I know it was 2 years ago, but it would have been nice to see the finished product, mainly the beer taps... a cool idea for sure! cheers
Yea I know! Thanks for the support, I can say two years later and it’s still going strong.
Agree. I might have to figure those out. Very cool.
I used to be a draught manager for AB: fyi- if your beer is coming out foamy its because the the beer tower pipes aren't insulated. If you add some thin insulation to the inside walls of the pipe, it'll help tremendously. You might have a problem as well with your insulated beer lines coming out of the keg box. If you beer comes out over 38 degrees you'll see a lot of foam.
I did end up insulating the tower. I may run a glycol line at some point to keep it more consistent but its been working great so far! Appreciate the comment though!
I want to build a keezer and this video was what I was looking for... Thanks!
nice job
Thanks!
Did you have a final picture of the iron pipe tower? I would love to see the finished product
My email is in the description, I would be happy to send you a picture.
Talking don’t matter that keeper though, bomb as hell man 👍🏼👍🏼
Appreciate it!
Your videos are great either way! Keep it up man 👍
Hi Thanks for the information I am looking to make a kegerator in my garden bar my beer gets too hot in the summer 👍
This is so helpful!!! Great video
Thank you 😊
Great job
Thank you!
Sweet
The compressor in a freezer is designed for low temperature application and it is designed to reduce the temperature of the freezer to -10F at start up and reduce the temperature from room temperature to -10F, one time. A compressor operates at the pressures at which the boiling refrigerant creates at a certain temperature. So, a low temp compressor at -10F conditioned space temperature operates at a very low pressure, maybe 0 PSIG, depending on the type of refrigerant, and the refrigerant entering the compressor cools the motor in the compressor as it runs. When a low temperature compressor is forced to operate at keezer temperature the pressure of the refrigerant will be higher than the compressor is designed to operate at and the temperature of the refrigerant that cools the compressor will be higher. To start and stop a low temperature compressor under a high heat load, continuously, that is designed to reduce the heat load one time, then cycle maybe once or twice a day; at keezer temperature the higher temperature overloads the compressor and shortens the life cycle of the compressor. To keep people safe, the manufacturer installs an over current protector or a high temperature protector in a compressor, which can act like a thermostat cycling the compressor off and on under a high pressure, high heat event, which burns out the compressor.
You may have missed the refrigeration part of Mechanical Engineering.
Thanks for watching!
What a helmet 😂
What kind of shank did you use? Could you drop a link?
I used kegco shanks however the 3-1/8 “ ones are technically too long and I had to modify my tower to work. I would buy your tower components first assemble it and measure the depth you need before purchasing. The link attached is what I used for reference Kegco SHANK3-ASC 3-1/8" Long All SS Contact Shank with Nipple Assembly - 3/16" I.D. Bore www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAY452G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ufLxxfP4RdcZ8
Sweet build. But just out of curiosity how many hours and how much did you spend roughly?
Where did you get the black pipe for the tower? I like this.
Everything was bought at the hardware store, you need 2 90’s, 1 tee, two nipples, 1 long nipple, a pipe flange and 2 reducer couplings! The length/size really depends on personal preference but I recommend making it tall enough to get the glass below the beer faucet!
@@jamesofalltradesny What diameter of pipe did you use? Would John Guest fitting help when spinning the elbows in place? Do you have any issues with the first pour being warm?
@@imlon2 I used 2” pipe, and insulated the inside with pipe insulation to keep the beer cold in the lines. Being that the parties we do typically require constant pouring we haven’t had any issue. I could see if it sits in the line for a while it will definitely get warm but you can always pour off the first oz or two to correct this. You could definitely use a fitting like that, I didn’t think of it at the time I was building it
How do load the keg in the keezer?
Lift the keg and place it in, typically if it’s a half barrel it’s helpful to have a second person. 1/6ths are pretty easy alone.
Hey nice build. I'm interested on which PC fan did you get? Could you provide the link?
The fan I used is available on Amazon and it’s listed as, AC Infinity AXIAL 1225, Quiet Muffin Fan, 120V AC 120mm x 25mm Low Speed, UL-Certified for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects
Any idea of keeping lines cool if I want to run them 5-8f away from tap
You can run a glycol loop with the lines and run a pump to circulate it back to the Keezer. Believe there are other tutorials like that on here.
@@jamesofalltradesny cool thank you will look for that.
messi campeon papa
Good video, until I realised at the end there was no demo.
Very disappointing indeed.
In fact, school boy error.
I’ve thought about that since posting this lol
@jamesofalltradesny life is about learning, I suppose 👍
I prefer to actually see the finished product. No idea what you actually made.
Yea looking back now this was one of my earlier videos, lesson learned
@@jamesofalltradesny All good. Thanks for the reply. I was just really interested in that industrial pipe tap tower. Actually a very cool idea but I think I got the gist.
talk through the videos better
Noted thanks for the input
Sweet build. But just out of curiosity how many hours and how much did you spend roughly?
Around 5-6 hundred for everything and a weekend. It can probably be done for 4-5 hundred if you buy lower grade faucets and don’t do the tap tower.