I know this is an old video, but you just showed me exactly what my very old leaking faucet needs. I need that replacement packing kit. Until now, I was trying to do it with jamming a bunch of self-shaping graphite rope into the packing nut without removing the old packing (actually, I didn't understand how that would work...and it didn't). Thanks to your video, I see how it works: I have to *remove* the old worn-out packing and replace it with the new one, which gets compressed when you tighten the packing nut down...whihc squeezes the packing tight against the stem to make the seal. Excellent. Thank you...from six years in the future :-)
You're the first one of these I've seen that shows the bonnet washer/packing. My handle set screw is beat...hoping penetrating oil will free it. Made mistake of trying to do it with screw driver not big enough slot (both across the blade and blade thickness) resulting in damage to the screw. So I can't even get the bonnet nut off to replace the bonnet washer. In the old days plumbers often used some kind of "rope" for packing and I used a bit of that with a good dollop of pipe dope. So far so good. Another tip I'd add is to make sure the valve is OPENED (so the stem washer at bottom is out of it's seat) when tightening the bonnet nut. If the stem washer is already seated when you tighten the bonnet it will drive that washer to hard into it's seat and damage it. Thanks!
You made this look super easy now that I have seen you do it. Can’t wait to fix it to run water to my poly tunnel. I’m going today! Thanks so much! And thanks for not giving us the usual, “WHATS UP RUclips!”
Juan -- Do you remember what Danco gasket number you used for your fix? I've got the same valves for my hose bibs on a house built in 1979. Best fitting gasket I could find at ACE was the Danco #84. Used it and stem sealed fine; however, I ended up with a bit of leakage around the bonnet/nut threads at the bottom of the bonnet. Hopefully this leak will seal with a bit of time as the gasket fully compresses. Or maybe there is really a better gasket number to use. If not, maybe I will end up adding a bit of rope packing at the bottom. Thanks -- Watson
Once I get the bonnet off the stem, I polish the stem to a mirror finish. Remove all old packing residue, calcium etc. from the stem and polish it. Once super smooth, it will seal better against the packing.
Question, if I hook up my water hose or even just a pressure regulator and I’m getting back pressure into the wall of my house. Could the first part of the video be the problem? Thank you
Thanks for the great video - super helpful. I have a hose bib that looks exactly like this. Today, the handle stopped working. When I went to turn it off, the handle didn't stop where it should. Instead, it continued and instead of being closed, it went forward back to the fully open/on position. I'm wondering if this could be fixed by replacing the bonnet packing. Do you know if that might be the case?
Mine leaks badly around the top of the stem when turned on. There was no packing material at all under the bonnet, just a very thin metal washer. I packed a few turns of Self-Forming Graphite Valve Packing (Danco 80793) between the washer and the bonnet. Tomorrow, I'll cross my finger and re-install the stem to see if it stopped the leak. Update: The Graphite Valve Packing worked for only a day and started leaking badly again. I ended up using a Danco 35228B Bonnet Washer and it's fixed now. I had to discard the white plastic insert packed with the new washer.
Packing string should work as far as I know. But once the hole in the bonnet nut where it goes around the stem gets worn it tends to only work temporarily. The bonnet packing lets you get around that issue much better.
Nice try though. See my comment above for similar approach. I added pipe dope to the graphite string. My problem is I still can't budge the handle screw. Daily dosing of penetrating oil in progress.
Has anyone replaced one of these hose bibs? Yours looks the same or similar hose bib as mine. Do you know whether your hose bib is sodered onto the pipe, or screwed onto the pipe via an adapter? And if it's screwed onto the water pipe, do you know whether your hose bib is male or female? Because my hose bib is messed up and needs to be replaced (doesn't even have a useable screw holding the gasket/washer on). Thanks alot!
Dear Juan, l have the same faucet and can you provide me with the make And part number to replace the bonnet Packing???? Thank-You very much for Any help, Ken.
Kenneth Jones Sorry I no longer have that info..but any Ace hardware or similar store should have them. Just take in the bonnet top to match up shape and size. Hope that helps.
The one I took apart this afternoon had a metal washer on top of the packing. As far as I know, it's the original one when the house was first built. Good video by the way.
never tighten the bonnet unless the valve is open or you damage the valve. the video shows him closing the valve then tightening the bonnet. Bassackwards.
How you figure? unless you have the wrong parts, there is space inside to allow the valve to open and close. Makes sense to tighten bonnet with the valve closed so you don't chance bottoming out on the top of the internal threads on the valve shaft.
I know this is an old video, but you just showed me exactly what my very old leaking faucet needs. I need that replacement packing kit. Until now, I was trying to do it with jamming a bunch of self-shaping graphite rope into the packing nut without removing the old packing (actually, I didn't understand how that would work...and it didn't). Thanks to your video, I see how it works: I have to *remove* the old worn-out packing and replace it with the new one, which gets compressed when you tighten the packing nut down...whihc squeezes the packing tight against the stem to make the seal. Excellent. Thank you...from six years in the future :-)
Glad I could help.
You're the first one of these I've seen that shows the bonnet washer/packing. My handle set screw is beat...hoping penetrating oil will free it. Made mistake of trying to do it with screw driver not big enough slot (both across the blade and blade thickness) resulting in damage to the screw. So I can't even get the bonnet nut off to replace the bonnet washer. In the old days plumbers often used some kind of "rope" for packing and I used a bit of that with a good dollop of pipe dope. So far so good.
Another tip I'd add is to make sure the valve is OPENED (so the stem washer at bottom is out of it's seat) when tightening the bonnet nut. If the stem washer is already seated when you tighten the bonnet it will drive that washer to hard into it's seat and damage it. Thanks!
Great short repair video without all the fluff.
Nice. Clean and easy to understand. Thanks!
Your welcome, glad to help.
You made this look super easy now that I have seen you do it. Can’t wait to fix it to run water to my poly tunnel. I’m going today! Thanks so much! And thanks for not giving us the usual, “WHATS UP RUclips!”
You are correct! “WHATS UP RUclips!” = Total annoying stupidity.
Hi Juan...I needed this video. I appreciate your calm demeanor. Thank you for showing me the know how part! Take care.
Thanks for the kind words. All the best to you bud👍🏽
Thank you Juan from the bottom of my heart ! God bless you for helping !
Glad I could help.
Thank you for this video. Have to replace bonnet packing on spigot. This helped me a lot.
Glad you found it helpful👍🏽
The First thing you wanna do is to turn the water supply to the faucet off...
I must be old school, I still have a roll of graphite coated packing string. Thanks for the video
Old school is the best school👍🏽
Nice job young man - you did an excellent job of videoing and explaining the process of replacing the washers .
Thank you, just trying to give back and spread a little of the knowledge I was taught by my father and grandfather.
Thank you Juan.... It helped me a lot. Great Video !
Bro, that was excellent! That’s the way to RUclips, thank you!
Bruce Drukker thanks...my first diy video lol...glad it helped.
Excellent video. Thanks. I forgot exactly how to fix the packing.
Glad I could help👍🏽
I really need this video. Thank you!
Fantastic! Just what I needed to repair an older exterior sillcock.
Hope it works out for you!👍🏽
Juan -- Do you remember what Danco gasket number you used for your fix? I've got the same valves for my hose bibs on a house built in 1979. Best fitting gasket I could find at ACE was the Danco #84. Used it and stem sealed fine; however, I ended up with a bit of leakage around the bonnet/nut threads at the bottom of the bonnet. Hopefully this leak will seal with a bit of time as the gasket fully compresses. Or maybe there is really a better gasket number to use. If not, maybe I will end up adding a bit of rope packing at the bottom. Thanks -- Watson
Great video, helped me fix a leak!
andre iglesias thx buddy glad it helped
Once I get the bonnet off the stem, I polish the stem to a mirror finish. Remove all old packing residue, calcium etc. from the stem and polish it. Once super smooth, it will seal better against the packing.
Nice tip, will do for the next one👍🏽
Great video. I know it’s easier to replace the spigot but sometimes you cannot
True, I enjoy refurbishing old things, it usually works out cheaper and lasts longer than the new version too.
Thank You!!!!! I fixed this myself and I’m a LADY!!!! 😍
Don’t sell yourself short, anyone with the will to do something surely can.🙂👍🏽
just what i needed; TY
I am going to give it a shot. Thanks
👍🏽
Great clear description.
Thanks!
Appreciate the comment, thanks.
Good job fixing the faucet,I don't like how we live in a throwaway world.
I think i saw you on Hoarders.
@@hamajangz9586 🤔 no hoarding but I do sell antiques. Do you think the earth has unlimited resources?
@@strebis6 No but apparently you have a limited sense of humor.
Thanks. Explained very well!
Your very welcome. Hope it helps you.
very helpful thank you
Great video. Thanks !
Your welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Glad you found it helpful👍🏽
Great video best I found.
Thanks, glad you found it helpful.
Question, if I hook up my water hose or even just a pressure regulator and I’m getting back pressure into the wall of my house. Could the first part of the video be the problem? Thank you
Thanks for the great video - super helpful. I have a hose bib that looks exactly like this. Today, the handle stopped working. When I went to turn it off, the handle didn't stop where it should. Instead, it continued and instead of being closed, it went forward back to the fully open/on position. I'm wondering if this could be fixed by replacing the bonnet packing. Do you know if that might be the case?
Sounds like you might need an entire replacement.
What happens if the handle doesn’t come off? Mine is solid stuck on!
Excellent, thank you. My old faucet has a T-J on its side. Any idea what type it is ?
Might be an old company that is long out of business.... but you can still find parts that will work at a local ace hardware.
Mine leaks badly around the top of the stem when turned on. There was no packing material at all under the bonnet, just a very thin metal washer. I packed a few turns of Self-Forming Graphite Valve Packing (Danco 80793) between the washer and the bonnet. Tomorrow, I'll cross my finger and re-install the stem to see if it stopped the leak. Update: The Graphite Valve Packing worked for only a day and started leaking badly again. I ended up using a Danco 35228B Bonnet Washer and it's fixed now. I had to discard the white plastic insert packed with the new washer.
Packing string should work as far as I know. But once the hole in the bonnet nut where it goes around the stem gets worn it tends to only work temporarily. The bonnet packing lets you get around that issue much better.
Nice try though. See my comment above for similar approach. I added pipe dope to the graphite string. My problem is I still can't budge the handle screw. Daily dosing of penetrating oil in progress.
Good job...but funny thing is you can get whole faucet like that at home depot for like $5
Hi, Great video. Do you have to turn off the main water to do this?
Yes, definitely. Thank you.
I have a seized bonnet nut any suggestions on how to get it to break free?
Maybe try a little heat.
Are these all a universal size for the bonnet?
yeahdude1986 I don’t believe so. There were different sizes of packing available at my local ace hardware.
Awesome thanks!
Glad I could help.
Where did u get that bonnet washer I need one.
I have an ace hardware near me that carries them. They usually carry smaller specialized parts like that.
Thanks 😊
No problem
Where can I get the bonnet packing washer? Do you have a part number?
Local Ace hardware had them for me.
Has anyone replaced one of these hose bibs? Yours looks the same or similar hose bib as mine. Do you know whether your hose bib is sodered onto the pipe, or screwed onto the pipe via an adapter? And if it's screwed onto the water pipe, do you know whether your hose bib is male or female? Because my hose bib is messed up and needs to be replaced (doesn't even have a useable screw holding the gasket/washer on). Thanks alot!
FYI...it was soldered on.
Should I turn the water off before correction?
Yes
Do you have to turn your water off first
Yes, usually there’s a shutoff just on the other side of the wall behind the valve. If not shutoff at your main valve.
Dear Juan, l have the same faucet
and can you provide me with the make
And part number to replace the bonnet
Packing???? Thank-You very much for
Any help, Ken.
Kenneth Jones Sorry I no longer have that info..but any Ace hardware or similar store should have them. Just take in the bonnet top to match up shape and size. Hope that helps.
Thank - You for the quick reply!
I am going to try Danco#84 from E Bay
They look the same.
Great! Couldn't be out done.
Aren't you supposed to have a metal washer on top of the bonnet packing?
I don't believe so. I rebuilt two of them and neither of them had a washer of any kind.
The one I took apart this afternoon had a metal washer on top of the packing. As far as I know, it's the original one when the house was first built. Good video by the way.
It's called a "friction ring or washer".
Manufacturers probably did away with them to save 3 to 4 cents.
never tighten the bonnet unless the valve is open or you damage the valve. the video shows him closing the valve then tightening the bonnet. Bassackwards.
How you figure? unless you have the wrong parts, there is space inside to allow the valve to open and close. Makes sense to tighten bonnet with the valve closed so you don't chance bottoming out on the top of the internal threads on the valve shaft.
@@jba6677 I think you have that wrong. See my comment above.