I was quite surprised that the actual 3D models for the Gunpla were in the files. Like, if you were just going to pose them as statues, why have the model feature every last poly cap, part and nub in it!? Especially for something like the MG Freedom and Justice. Legitimately a massive optimization screw up.
IIrc the concept of metaverse was to import your actual gunpla, so it makes sense to have that much detail. You can just cull it out most of the time anyway, right?
Its kinda hard to make much from scratch in Creo Parametric but it is amazing for refining and tooling. Its used more for finishing and refinement and maybe cam depending on the gcode output. Outside of that all I know is it is extremely hard to learn and use and very rare.
I use Creo all the time. It makes solid works look like a child’s program. It’s pretty capable for top down design and large assemblies with lots of parts and sub assemblies
It's more expensive to get a decent print of stuff that's meant for injection molding. Resin is expensive. Good tough resin is even more. These are m more useless as FDM prints. They're just nice to look at. A curiosity on how Bandai hobby div makes stuff.
Meshmixer make solid solve most mesh problems. If you have seen Bandai's 3D model before being gunpla. You will be surprise how low poly they are. They been doing them via computer since the late 90's and all. Still a lot easier to 3d model if there are reference. Get all the dimensions right is really hard.
I know meshmixer in many light is an amazing open source tool and no doubt it is capable of solid and fix meshs. But this is so way from what I know and capable. Catalog of common gunpla parts and standards like polly caps to pegs and joins followed by artistic references and team member being 40+ years they are on next level tech, methods that are rare and different to other model companys mentioned in video and other comment, observations like use of Creo Parametric. With these files all we doing is playing in the dark with lesser tools and resources. You bring up a lot of great points, thanks for your interest.
I am a little late to this discussion, i am a game developer with a mechanical engineers degree, I use blender quite often. The part seperation steps mentioned in the video and description are unnecessarily complicated in my opinion. I would insted suggest you the below steps to seperate the model into individual parts after importing the model into blender. 1.select model and press RMB and then select Shade flat(not a mandatory step but its better than marking all the edges as sharp). 2. Enter edit mode (shortcut press Tab key), press A to select all vertices. 3. Press P and then seperate by parts. PS, Do not use merge by distance, especially before seperating the model into individual parts as this combines the closest vertices in a mesh and will infact hinder in separation of individual parts.
I already seen it, for engineers skilled in prototyping and printing it isnt hard and have also produced a 35th one. I did like that guys choice of materials.
there are tonnage of 3d files out there more being leaked every day from video game files. Some remix them and upload some design there own. Look at any 3d file providing website and see whats on offer.
I get the feeling that these files have been put through so many conversions that important data is missing leading to the parts becoming fused and separated in ways that only someone versed in Blender would be able to patch, and I don't use the word fix for a reason. if these files did come from a game I can see the game team asking the model team for the files, but asking for them in a format the model team didn't natively build it in so used an intermediate file format that both systems used like STEP, STL or OBJ, this would mess with the mesh, only slightly, but enough that details would be altered. however we are not just talking about one conversion here, the game team would need to do their own thing with the mesh to export it into the game, maybe scaling it to fit with what they were doing, and that's before we get a hold of it, the ripping prosses might have been grabbing the model file, or ripping the mesh from the game adding more errors, and then comes the end user. I used a different convertor to get the files into Blender and got even worse results than you, then I saved the file as a STL, put it into 3D builder to fix some errors, and then Fusion 360 to work on it. yeah, my mesh is a mess, and I even had some of the scaling problems you had as I am not sure all the steps had scaled the parts correctly. I am reminded of a test a professor in my engineering course tried and failed at, he asked us to make a model in CAD and then run a test on it, and using that answer a multiple choice on what the result was, a way of testing we knew how to run the test. The problem was that due to how each of us built our model the test on the mesh was wildly different and no one got close to the correct answer. this was all using the same program. in saying that I did manage to get a few files into Fusion 360 to play with, and even got them to a solid model state, but again the data was a bit questionable, with round parts being far from it, and I found I ended up replacing most the leaked parts with my own. I was doing this with the Freedom 2.0 files, and as I don't have that kit I will be ordering one to check sizes as I see these as a good reference source once they are patched up a bit. That or the 1/12 Arial someone has made would be a fun project to mess with. Anyway, I am interested to see what you make with them.
Depending if gaming unit is internal namco out fit who can communicate with hobby division or out sourced which would not have access to jack besides some pics. Once a soild is made universal mesh format it can translate to anything which we agree with. Gaming units would almost never use fusion or inverter excluding world of warships/ tanks who are weird. If Auto desk Maya would have been used and it would not have taken long nor cost much with based priced artist to make those 3d models. Im interested in learning more about how you manage to turn a mesh back into a soild just out of sheer interest (from my research its quite the process). As far as I got using the files all I did was make a bust but these bits may come in use in future. Scaling wasnt that much of an issue as its easy with math but far too lazy to care and did a rough job with most of the file and a proper job with the 1/35 bust. 1/12 print off would be crazy cool.
@@mokanaman in fusion under the "mesh tab", click the "modify" drop-down and in there, you will find "convert mesh". Yes I had to look up a guide, and I need to play with it some more as some of what I have is a bit messy. One thing I want to do is use that to take files I have bought and make instructions for them as the original never had any. After talking to the guy who made the 1/12 Arial, it cost him about £450, I might just make the head or the gun.
I have not seen the break down of that kit yet (only have it raw in one piece), could have had some work done on it for better tolerance. But more then happy to take your word for it. Had to do some sanding and drilling for Aerial.
I feel like a lot of this is just too much work for me so I haven't even bothered to try and take them apart and look at stuff. I did make a Tekken 7 model printable.... (I've seen a few examples of it but I can't find someone with the free time to print the whole thing...) Either way making a video game model printable is pain. And I can't imagine the work it takes to make these ones printable good lord.
that is a life sentence in jail in my state. Massive pass for me but great for props and replicas in collecting and cosplay. Please check your local laws.
little pieces of brass in a massive tool steel brick, it is such a neat idea. You can find footage from the bandai factory of them polishing these parts of the molds to the reason why surface of gunpla is so smooth and shiny. Clip is included in this video.
During steel shortages soviets were also known to use wood and resin steel mix which is something I want to test in the future. Industry standard is 99% D2 tool steel or cheaper 4140 steel.
Daban : download that down ! Download that down !
😂
MJH: (watches in silence)
I was quite surprised that the actual 3D models for the Gunpla were in the files. Like, if you were just going to pose them as statues, why have the model feature every last poly cap, part and nub in it!? Especially for something like the MG Freedom and Justice.
Legitimately a massive optimization screw up.
Probably because hiding them would take time.
And Metaverse seems like a helluva rush job.
Seems necessary due to the nature of the part scanning tech under development. Have to have parts to match to a file for recognition.
IIrc the concept of metaverse was to import your actual gunpla, so it makes sense to have that much detail. You can just cull it out most of the time anyway, right?
Upon closer inspection it seems that Bandai uses a CAD program called Creo Parametric, not heard of that one before. Love the memes sprinkled in.
Its kinda hard to make much from scratch in Creo Parametric but it is amazing for refining and tooling. Its used more for finishing and refinement and maybe cam depending on the gcode output. Outside of that all I know is it is extremely hard to learn and use and very rare.
I use Creo all the time. It makes solid works look like a child’s program. It’s pretty capable for top down design and large assemblies with lots of parts and sub assemblies
Forgot to mention, US Based ME in Mechanical Design industry
It's more expensive to get a decent print of stuff that's meant for injection molding. Resin is expensive. Good tough resin is even more. These are m more useless as FDM prints. They're just nice to look at. A curiosity on how Bandai hobby div makes stuff.
Meshmixer make solid solve most mesh problems. If you have seen Bandai's 3D model before being gunpla. You will be surprise how low poly they are. They been doing them via computer since the late 90's and all.
Still a lot easier to 3d model if there are reference. Get all the dimensions right is really hard.
I know meshmixer in many light is an amazing open source tool and no doubt it is capable of solid and fix meshs. But this is so way from what I know and capable. Catalog of common gunpla parts and standards like polly caps to pegs and joins followed by artistic references and team member being 40+ years they are on next level tech, methods that are rare and different to other model companys mentioned in video and other comment, observations like use of Creo Parametric. With these files all we doing is playing in the dark with lesser tools and resources. You bring up a lot of great points, thanks for your interest.
I am a little late to this discussion, i am a game developer with a mechanical engineers degree, I use blender quite often. The part seperation steps mentioned in the video and description are unnecessarily complicated in my opinion. I would insted suggest you the below steps to seperate the model into individual parts after importing the model into blender.
1.select model and press RMB and then select Shade flat(not a mandatory step but its better than marking all the edges as sharp).
2. Enter edit mode (shortcut press Tab key), press A to select all vertices.
3. Press P and then seperate by parts.
PS, Do not use merge by distance, especially before seperating the model into individual parts as this combines the closest vertices in a mesh and will infact hinder in separation of individual parts.
Someone in one of my gunpla discord servers actually already printed a 1/12 Gundam Aerial. And yes, I got photos.
They posted on /r/gunpla too.
I already seen it, for engineers skilled in prototyping and printing it isnt hard and have also produced a 35th one. I did like that guys choice of materials.
I find it funny that BHC use the EFS military uniform as the factory uniform.
Even the injection molding machines are colored like the white base. Very cool.
Gundam should offer 3d printer files to everyone. That way, everyone can customize their own Gundam.
there are tonnage of 3d files out there more being leaked every day from video game files. Some remix them and upload some design there own. Look at any 3d file providing website and see whats on offer.
I get the feeling that these files have been put through so many conversions that important data is missing leading to the parts becoming fused and separated in ways that only someone versed in Blender would be able to patch, and I don't use the word fix for a reason. if these files did come from a game I can see the game team asking the model team for the files, but asking for them in a format the model team didn't natively build it in so used an intermediate file format that both systems used like STEP, STL or OBJ, this would mess with the mesh, only slightly, but enough that details would be altered. however we are not just talking about one conversion here, the game team would need to do their own thing with the mesh to export it into the game, maybe scaling it to fit with what they were doing, and that's before we get a hold of it, the ripping prosses might have been grabbing the model file, or ripping the mesh from the game adding more errors, and then comes the end user. I used a different convertor to get the files into Blender and got even worse results than you, then I saved the file as a STL, put it into 3D builder to fix some errors, and then Fusion 360 to work on it. yeah, my mesh is a mess, and I even had some of the scaling problems you had as I am not sure all the steps had scaled the parts correctly. I am reminded of a test a professor in my engineering course tried and failed at, he asked us to make a model in CAD and then run a test on it, and using that answer a multiple choice on what the result was, a way of testing we knew how to run the test. The problem was that due to how each of us built our model the test on the mesh was wildly different and no one got close to the correct answer. this was all using the same program.
in saying that I did manage to get a few files into Fusion 360 to play with, and even got them to a solid model state, but again the data was a bit questionable, with round parts being far from it, and I found I ended up replacing most the leaked parts with my own. I was doing this with the Freedom 2.0 files, and as I don't have that kit I will be ordering one to check sizes as I see these as a good reference source once they are patched up a bit. That or the 1/12 Arial someone has made would be a fun project to mess with.
Anyway, I am interested to see what you make with them.
Depending if gaming unit is internal namco out fit who can communicate with hobby division or out sourced which would not have access to jack besides some pics. Once a soild is made universal mesh format it can translate to anything which we agree with. Gaming units would almost never use fusion or inverter excluding world of warships/ tanks who are weird. If Auto desk Maya would have been used and it would not have taken long nor cost much with based priced artist to make those 3d models. Im interested in learning more about how you manage to turn a mesh back into a soild just out of sheer interest (from my research its quite the process). As far as I got using the files all I did was make a bust but these bits may come in use in future. Scaling wasnt that much of an issue as its easy with math but far too lazy to care and did a rough job with most of the file and a proper job with the 1/35 bust. 1/12 print off would be crazy cool.
@@mokanaman in fusion under the "mesh tab", click the "modify" drop-down and in there, you will find "convert mesh". Yes I had to look up a guide, and I need to play with it some more as some of what I have is a bit messy. One thing I want to do is use that to take files I have bought and make instructions for them as the original never had any.
After talking to the guy who made the 1/12 Arial, it cost him about £450, I might just make the head or the gun.
I printed out all the parts for the Lah Gundam and they all came out just find fit just prefect in resin btw
I have not seen the break down of that kit yet (only have it raw in one piece), could have had some work done on it for better tolerance. But more then happy to take your word for it. Had to do some sanding and drilling for Aerial.
Just manipulate the parts in lychee or similar to be angled, before adding a raft and supports?
yes, I cover this in my second video printing the 1/35 aerial head.
The thingiverse file for the aerial seem to have some holes and some parts arent completely split
Correct, its a lot of work mate.
They deleted the 4chan thread, do you know if they continued somewhere else?
New thread is linked in description section and can be easily found on google encase that one is gone too.
@20:19 ....lol, looks familiar!
Totally agree that most of the files are not worth the time as they are a lot of work
Had to throw it in haha
I feel like a lot of this is just too much work for me so I haven't even bothered to try and take them apart and look at stuff. I did make a Tekken 7 model printable.... (I've seen a few examples of it but I can't find someone with the free time to print the whole thing...)
Either way making a video game model printable is pain. And I can't imagine the work it takes to make these ones printable good lord.
Dude you could make a human scale gun how crazy would that be
that is a life sentence in jail in my state. Massive pass for me but great for props and replicas in collecting and cosplay. Please check your local laws.
Can someone hit me up the files 😭🙏🏾
You didnt watch the whole video did you nor read the description lol.
Brass? I thought all injection moulds were steel.
little pieces of brass in a massive tool steel brick, it is such a neat idea. You can find footage from the bandai factory of them polishing these parts of the molds to the reason why surface of gunpla is so smooth and shiny. Clip is included in this video.
During steel shortages soviets were also known to use wood and resin steel mix which is something I want to test in the future. Industry standard is 99% D2 tool steel or cheaper 4140 steel.
Most plastic injection moulds I know are stainless steel, they are must more robust, not sure what Bandai use