I can imagine that some of the purists out there would have been having kittens with some of the things you did, but a Man's gotta do, what a Man's gotta do to get the desired result, with the equipment you have. Great result. 👍
@@Rustinox Same Same with me, I had the purists having a go at me when I was building my Mill, they didn't like the fact I was calling things Flat, without the part being surface ground. 👍
This is why a lot of guys disassemble a new old machine when you get it to inspect / clean / and repair before you use it . then maybe you might have another 20 years of fun well you get it have fun .on mine i bought it over a year ago and now it's ready to move to were it will live in the shop . lets do 👍Good Job . JM
I am about to do this with an old Hercus 9 (Australian made version of a Southbend). I was thinking of using a flycutter rather than an end mill so I could do both sides in one cut. Loved watching how you went about it, has given me some great ideas
Good morning Michel, just settled down with a fresh coffee and a soft Kitten, ready to watch, I know before I start, this will be a good one, best wishes to you and yours buddy
Hi Michel ☺, looks like your efforts to true up the slide has worked, I presume a test cut on the lathe will show up any problems, I hope there isn't any, and it is moving nice and smooth now. Thanks for another interesting video mate, have a good wkend. Stuart Uk.
Well done! I wouldn't have tackled the fix like that, but then my milling machine needs some TLC to get it running accurate again. When I did my topslide, it was straight to the surface plate, measure, scrape, measure, scrape etc etc until it ran silky smooth. Time for you to learn how to scrape ways flat?
Yes,it most certainly works,Michel.Your rationalistic approuch is flawless.Your evaluation process based on your experience and equipment is unique and transferable to your viewers.Thank you.
Nice repair Michel and effective as well. All I could think pf during the process was your"dislike" of scraping. I enjoyed the video very much, cheers and have a great day friend!
Great job there. The shaper and mostly the mill came to rescue to solve the problem. Respectable determination as well. Asking an engineering shop to surface grind that compound might have costed quite a bit. Hope the accuracy has improved there. Enjoy the weekend
Hi Michael, I don't have the same lathe, but my top slide gib has four setscrews with locknuts to adjust the gibs on both top and cross slides. Usually, gibs like on yours are tapered with an adjusting screw at each end. How are you "supposed" to adjust that gib normally? Making a new gib to tighten it up seems a bit strange. I couldn't decern any threaded holes with setscrews in them for any adjustment. Just curious as to how normal wear is compensated for. Your "repair" seems to have worked, but adding an extra shim seems a little overkill to me. There should be a way of adjusting that small change. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇧🇪💩🏁👍
Adding shims to gibs is a normal practice. And yes there should be a way to lock the gib. I don't have time to go back over the video to see if there were any. If he doesnt have them he has enough of a shop to add them and he should.
The way the gib adjusts is with the screw at the fat end. It has a step in it which engages with a slot in the gib, pulling / pushing the gib in and out of the ways. In some cases (like the one on the X axis of my mill), there's a second screw at the thin end in order to lock the gib in place, but mostly it's not needed, as the gib can't back drive the screw. Shimming when you get to the end of travel is a necessary evil when you have a "pre-loved" machine like Michel has.
ONG !! Dont do this ! My heart is bleading see this. You have to scrap the ways. Never Sandpaper, Never Grynding Paste. Why dont look on RUclips before?? There so many channel that show how to fix this the wright way !!
Hi Michel. Looks like you got a decent result, but you took a few risks. Odd that the lower surface under the slideways is rough, you're right that it stops you measuring, I think I'd have skimmed them with the shaper :)
*_You should check out Max Grant on his scrapping videos._* Scraping is the key to real flatness. And the only time you should be feeding with your compound is when making angled cuts. There are locking screws to lock the gib so the compound doesn't move which is what you should be doing when making normal facing or 90 degree cuts. 👍👍👍👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣
Great channel suggestion. Max Grant is what happens when decades of experience and natural talent collide. There might be better 'how to' videos on scraping (Stefan Gotteswinter did a good tutorial, I thought), but Max got a lot of result with very few tools when he scraped his bridgeport's ways. It's a crime his channel isn't more popular. I've learned so much watching his videos. For those interested: Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop.
@@pingwax. Yes there are more "instructional" videos on scraping but Max is more real, in the dirt; What someone is going to be experiencing sort of thing in real life in their shop. I call Max The Wizard. LOL. I agree his channel is an unsung gem. In fact, all of the Aussie channels are great. Few American channels can really hold a stick to them.
@@Rustinox I would recommend installing locking screws and locking them when making cuts. The effect that alone will have on the quality of the cut is amazing. I went through my compound slide last year and glad I did. I only have one locking screw but I am planning on adding another at the front of the compound slide.
Развлечения
Hi Michel. Your perseverance to achieve your goal was certainly rewarded. As you said, “ it works”. Well done. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks Andrew.
I can imagine that some of the purists out there would have been having kittens with some of the things you did, but a Man's gotta do, what a Man's gotta do to get the desired result, with the equipment you have. Great result. 👍
I'm not a purist. I just make it work :)
@@Rustinox Same Same with me, I had the purists having a go at me when I was building my Mill, they didn't like the fact I was calling things Flat, without the part being surface ground. 👍
I like how you advise to clean out the chip pan, then don't clean it out! 😂
Well, maybe next time...
This is why a lot of guys disassemble a new old machine when you get it to inspect / clean / and repair before you use it . then maybe you might have another 20 years of fun well you get it have fun .on mine i bought it over a year ago and now it's ready to move to were it will live in the shop . lets do 👍Good Job . JM
Fixing an old machine is part of the fun.
@@Rustinox I agree .
I am about to do this with an old Hercus 9 (Australian made version of a Southbend). I was thinking of using a flycutter rather than an end mill so I could do both sides in one cut. Loved watching how you went about it, has given me some great ideas
Nice. Go for it.
enjoy and learned not to be too afraid to try some repair on my well worn lathe appreciate the humor
Go for it. And if it fails, go for it again.
Nice job in diagnosing and performing a repair on your lathe.
Thanks.
Nice job, Michel. I really thought the shaper would save the day, but the Deckel prevailed!
Regards, Preso
Well, the shaper doesn't always win.
Hello Michel, that’s a beautiful little shaper that you have there.
Thanks. Indeed, it is.
HI Michel. For the nuts that use a pin spanner wrench you can use a pin punch as a lever to help to loosen it. Nice work!!! Salut
Thet's a very good way to bend punches.
Good morning Michel, just settled down with a fresh coffee and a soft Kitten, ready to watch, I know before I start, this will be a good one, best wishes to you and yours buddy
Coffee... I need that too :)
Huge success! You had me worried for a while there.
No need to worry. It works :)
Nothing to say just an obligatory algorithm boost 👍👍
Thanks.
Great job Michel😉😉👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏
atb
Kev
Thanks Kev.
Hi Michel ☺, looks like your efforts to true up the slide has worked, I presume a test cut on the lathe will show up any problems, I hope there isn't any, and it is moving nice and smooth now. Thanks for another interesting video mate, have a good wkend. Stuart Uk.
I haven't used it yet. We'll see.
Well done!
I wouldn't have tackled the fix like that, but then my milling machine needs some TLC to get it running accurate again.
When I did my topslide, it was straight to the surface plate, measure, scrape, measure, scrape etc etc until it ran silky smooth.
Time for you to learn how to scrape ways flat?
I absolutely hate hand scraping...
Chasing down errors in old machines where many surfaces are worn is difficult, knowing what wear counts. Informative - well done.
Yes, it's useful to take mesurements in different ways to figure out where to cut and how much.
I think a cool experiment would be to add a grinding head to the shaper, not permanent, just an "occasional" type of thing.
I don't want to do that because grinding dust will get in the ways. But I'm sure it could work very well.
It’s nice when your tools work like they should. Thanks Michael
Absolutely.
Gday, perfect results there mate, great job
Thanks Matty.
Hello Rusti, very clever to use the shaper as a coordinate measuring machine. Resourceful! 👍👍
Use what you have and be happy with it :)
Yes,it most certainly works,Michel.Your rationalistic approuch is flawless.Your evaluation process based on your experience and equipment is unique and transferable to your viewers.Thank you.
The kind of jobs where you better think twise before start cutting :)
Nice fix! Sometimes the simple solution is all that's needed.
Absolutely.
Nice repair Michel and effective as well. All I could think pf during the process was your"dislike" of scraping. I enjoyed the video very much, cheers and have a great day friend!
Thanks. As is, it will work just fine.
Nice Detective work there.
Yes, it was.
Very nice work sir. He he. I have to take mine down again. Want to turn it down a little bit
Go for it.
G'day Rusty. Excellent video on restoration of the compound slide assembly, & moves smoothly when using. Well done 😊🎉
Thanks Ted.
Great job there. The shaper and mostly the mill came to rescue to solve the problem. Respectable determination as well. Asking an engineering shop to surface grind that compound might have costed quite a bit. Hope the accuracy has improved there. Enjoy the weekend
We'll see. I have to use it a few times to know.
Nice job Michel,i think I need to do this as well.👌
Go for it.
I was worried the risk you took machining the slide, but it paid off. Well done Michel. Another great improvement to the lathe. Cheers Nobby
Well, it was a calculated risk.
Hi Michelle, very interesting to see the rebuild, It looks like you've got rid of the tight spot now, well done.
Have a great weekend!!
It works :)
You are a brave man Michael! Re-machining your lathe.
No need to be brave. Just go for it.
Nice one Rustinox, those tight spots are annoying. Good to see you've rectified it. Cheers Tony
Absolutely ennoying. Makes it difficult to have a nice finish.
Great result Michel. Thanks for sharing 👍
And it works.
Thanks for this educating video. You mastered the difficulties. Then things always work in the end.
That's the goal :)
Nice work
Thanks.
Great result, well done!
Thanks.
Hi Rusty
Too bad the shear tool didn’t work
Carbide on the mill got it done.
Cheers…….
Well, the shaper doesn't always win :)
Thanks
:)
Excellent!!! ;)
Thanks Gilles.
it works!!!!!
Sure thing.
Now you can cut super accurate tapers. 😅
That's the plan.
Don't know if this suggestion will be helpful, but I saw a RUclips video where a guy mounted a small surface grinder on his shaper.....
I don't want to do that. I don't want grinding dust to get in the slides.
butter fingers!🤣
Sinds I had this cancer, I have sometimes uncontrolled movements. It just makes the videos a bit longer :)
Hi Michael, I don't have the same lathe, but my top slide gib has four setscrews with locknuts to adjust the gibs on both top and cross slides. Usually, gibs like on yours are tapered with an adjusting screw at each end. How are you "supposed" to adjust that gib normally? Making a new gib to tighten it up seems a bit strange. I couldn't decern any threaded holes with setscrews in them for any adjustment. Just curious as to how normal wear is compensated for.
Your "repair" seems to have worked, but adding an extra shim seems a little overkill to me. There should be a way of adjusting that small change.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊🇧🇪💩🏁👍
Adding shims to gibs is a normal practice. And yes there should be a way to lock the gib. I don't have time to go back over the video to see if there were any. If he doesnt have them he has enough of a shop to add them and he should.
The way the gib adjusts is with the screw at the fat end. It has a step in it which engages with a slot in the gib, pulling / pushing the gib in and out of the ways. In some cases (like the one on the X axis of my mill), there's a second screw at the thin end in order to lock the gib in place, but mostly it's not needed, as the gib can't back drive the screw.
Shimming when you get to the end of travel is a necessary evil when you have a "pre-loved" machine like Michel has.
There aren't any adjusting or lock screws on the slide. It's just a tapered gib.
It's strange that you didn't use Prussian blue to determine what to fix on the surface of the guides.
Well, I used sharpie black.
If you don't try, you'll never win.
Spot on.
ONG !! Dont do this ! My heart is bleading see this. You have to scrap the ways. Never Sandpaper, Never Grynding Paste. Why dont look on RUclips before?? There so many channel that show how to fix this the wright way !!
I will explane in my next video why I didn't scrape.
Hi Michel. Looks like you got a decent result, but you took a few risks. Odd that the lower surface under the slideways is rough, you're right that it stops you measuring, I think I'd have skimmed them with the shaper :)
No risks, no fun :)
*_You should check out Max Grant on his scrapping videos._* Scraping is the key to real flatness. And the only time you should be feeding with your compound is when making angled cuts. There are locking screws to lock the gib so the compound doesn't move which is what you should be doing when making normal facing or 90 degree cuts. 👍👍👍👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣
Great channel suggestion. Max Grant is what happens when decades of experience and natural talent collide. There might be better 'how to' videos on scraping (Stefan Gotteswinter did a good tutorial, I thought), but Max got a lot of result with very few tools when he scraped his bridgeport's ways. It's a crime his channel isn't more popular. I've learned so much watching his videos.
For those interested: Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop.
@@pingwax. Yes there are more "instructional" videos on scraping but Max is more real, in the dirt; What someone is going to be experiencing sort of thing in real life in their shop. I call Max The Wizard. LOL. I agree his channel is an unsung gem. In fact, all of the Aussie channels are great. Few American channels can really hold a stick to them.
There are no locking screws on the topslide. And I know Max very well. He's a legend.
@@Rustinox I would recommend installing locking screws and locking them when making cuts. The effect that alone will have on the quality of the cut is amazing. I went through my compound slide last year and glad I did. I only have one locking screw but I am planning on adding another at the front of the compound slide.