Why do ignorant people use an “overdose of useless violence” to take things apart? So that Michel can make an excellent series of videos showing his inventive methods of repair. Thank you 👏👏👍😀
I would have suggested simply splining the shaft (less work) but I would understand if the customer of the museum piece preferred the original 'look', if not the original fit.
Germany's Opel and General Motors Holden (Australia) collaborated on a number of motor vehicles going back to the 1970s. It may be that the parts your friend is looking for can be found in Australia. There are plenty of manufactures still making GMH aftermarket parts for older cars. Just a thought.
Interesting project! Like real, fixing stuff was “broke” by repairs. Can’t make it worse. Quite challenging and something I like to watch (like most of your projects). My “low country” background causes some of my qualifications which include hitting a dial indicator with a hammer. If you hit the MM indicator and it will read inches 😂.
Of course I've never ever hit or dropped my indicator but a mate did🤔and I can through him confirm that if you hit an inches dial with a hammer it will measure in cubits.
I think 2/100mm runout of the center of this brake drum is way too much. It cause problems thats for shure. 35 Years ago my everyday job was..... working on a "Hunger" brake drum lathe. If the centre bores of the brake drums are finished, you should screw the brake drums on a mandrel with zero runout and take off a small chip of the "braking pad area", both must run concentric as good as possible. Otherwise you can get Pedal pumping, brake noises and some other problems! Just my 2 cents....😉
G'day Rusty. Excellent job with the setups, calculations etc, just shows the vast knowledge you have attained over the years. Years ago, I used to do Left to Right hand conversions on European & American cars. Occasionally we had weld steering arm joints etc, which had to be welded with Low Hydrogen Rods, then an xray certificate had to be produced when getting the vehicle checked out at Transport for Licensing to be driven on the roads. As far as whoever removed the brake drum etc of the vehicle, should have just cut the brake drum off leaving the centre in tact, removed the axle, placed the axle in a good vice, or heated the taper flange & pressed it off. Anyway you have a good plan, they are fortunate you know what your doing. Excellent work, Or because it is mainly a show car, the majority of the splines could have been removed, an insert fitted & welded, then a standard taper recut into the drum, which would still be safe. The only pressure on the drum is when the brakes are applied.
Good job but if they would of gave you the drum and axle assemble you could of removed the drums without hacking up the axles . So let's say they couldn't to the axle bolts just cut the drum off and use wrenches or something .I was not going to comment why not . About you chuck by removing the jaw all you have determined was the screw turn freely . I think that the nut is pressing against the screw witch is pressing against the jaw witch is forcing the jaw against the machine guides for the jaws . There should be end play in the screw threads so the jaw doesn't bind . You should be able to wiggle the screw with the jaw in the chuck no load . It's your chuck just giving you something to think about good luck .JM
Why do ignorant people use an “overdose of useless violence” to take things apart? So that Michel can make an excellent series of videos showing his inventive methods of repair. Thank you 👏👏👍😀
Thanks.
Hi Michel, Interesting little project.
Be great to see the car that these will be fitted to if you can.
Have a great weekend.
I will ask the person but I can't promise.
@@Rustinox Be great to see, but if not at least see the model of car
At one time we had Opels in the USA but the lack of parts made them hard to work on. Great looking car. Thanks for sharing.
Same problem here.
I would have suggested simply splining the shaft (less work) but I would understand if the customer of the museum piece preferred the original 'look', if not the original fit.
This was the easiest solution.
Great set up on the lathe Michel. Nice to help keep these classic cars on the road. Well done. Cheers Nobby
Thanks Nobby.
Nothing to say just an obligatory algorithm boost for the channel. 👍👍
Thanks.
I'm always carful to use a calibrated hammer before smacking my dial indicators so nothing goes out of adjustment 😂😂
That's a valuable lesson.
Germany's Opel and General Motors Holden (Australia) collaborated on a number of motor vehicles going back to the 1970s. It may be that the parts your friend is looking for can be found in Australia. There are plenty of manufactures still making GMH aftermarket parts for older cars. Just a thought.
Good tip. I will tell him.
Good going, helping someone !!
Thanks.
First the dial indicator, then the drill bit…,, just like my luck!
Well, when s**t happens I don't want to hide it :)
Michel, @ 5:14 new DTI required! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍🏴
Well, it still works.
Very interesting. Looking forward to see how it turns out
Thanks. Me too :)
Really like this video. Seeing you do repair type jobs is neat. Lots of real world riddles here.
Thanks.
LOL! Awesome! Roger from Calgary.
Thanks.
Interesting set up Rustinox. Looks like a brain teaser and a good test for your new lathe. Cheers Tony
A brain teaser it is. Thanks Tony.
That's a big job! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Let me finish it first :)
They were very rough getting that drum off the shaft. Tricky setups. Will be good to see how this develops. Cheers
Good thing they didn't bent the shaft. But still...
As always Michel I am in awe of your patience and skill. Excellent work my friend. Next Friday is too long to wait.
Thanks.
Great , I learnt something today. Cheers mate🇦🇺
Nice. Thanks.
Maybe parts from the UK's Vauxhall Chevette will fit as is was virtually the same car. Great Vlog ATB regards from the UK
Thanks. I will tell the person.
Love to see projects like this
Nice. Thanks.
Good of you to help a fellow, Rusti! 👍 Looking forward to the second half. And maybe the third. 😄
I think it will be a 3 part video.
Great job mate
Thanks Matty.
Another enjoyable film 🙂 Nice to see last week's rollers in action. Looking forward to part 2 👍 🇬🇧
More roller use in part 2.
nice one Michel👍👍👍👍
quite right to refuse repairing stressed components, you never know!!!😉😉👍👍
atb
Kev
If it was for me, I wouldn't do it.
Looking forward to the next video!!
Well, next week :)
Great vid as usual.
Thanks.
Interesting project! Like real, fixing stuff was “broke” by repairs. Can’t make it worse. Quite challenging and something I like to watch (like most of your projects). My “low country” background causes some of my qualifications which include hitting a dial indicator with a hammer. If you hit the MM indicator and it will read inches 😂.
Inches??? Hell no...
Of course I've never ever hit or dropped my indicator but a mate did🤔and I can through him confirm that if you hit an inches dial with a hammer it will measure in cubits.
Great video Michel, it is fun to resurrect a part that is no longer available, that is the pioneer spirit!
Thanks. It's indeed a fun challenge.
This is a good chanel i like the variety of projects you come up with. JM
Thanks.
Good to see you helping out to get a museum piece moving again. Yes, good idea to put some 'Lulumlium' on the bearing to stop the heat...
While welding, the bearings became very hot. So now, it's for sure. They need to be replaced.
love it!! can't wait.
Thanks.
I think 2/100mm runout of the center of this brake drum is way too much.
It cause problems thats for shure. 35 Years ago my everyday job was..... working on a "Hunger" brake drum lathe.
If the centre bores of the brake drums are finished, you should screw the brake drums on a mandrel with zero runout and take off a small chip of the "braking pad area", both must run concentric as good as possible.
Otherwise you can get Pedal pumping, brake noises and some other problems!
Just my 2 cents....😉
For what they will do with the car, this will be just fine.
5:12 that's a tough indicator
Indeed, it is. No damnage at all.
This will keep you off the street and out of the pub for sure. Great video as usual. Good onya
For sure.
G'day Rusty. Excellent job with the setups, calculations etc, just shows the vast knowledge you have attained over the years.
Years ago, I used to do Left to Right hand conversions on European & American cars.
Occasionally we had weld steering arm joints etc, which had to be welded with Low Hydrogen Rods, then an xray certificate had to be produced when getting the vehicle checked out at Transport for Licensing to be driven on the roads.
As far as whoever removed the brake drum etc of the vehicle, should have just cut the brake drum off leaving the centre in tact, removed the axle, placed the axle in a good vice, or heated the taper flange & pressed it off.
Anyway you have a good plan, they are fortunate you know what your doing. Excellent work,
Or because it is mainly a show car, the majority of the splines could have been removed, an insert fitted & welded, then a standard taper recut into the drum, which would still be safe. The only pressure on the drum is when the brakes are applied.
Well, this is what the parts looked like when they arrived in my shop. All I have to do is to fix the problem :)
👍😎
Thanks.
How ironic. I am dealing with some brake drums myself.
Have fun with them :)
Good job but if they would of gave you the drum and axle assemble you could of removed the drums without hacking up the axles . So let's say they couldn't to the axle bolts just cut the drum off and use wrenches or something .I was not going to comment why not . About you chuck by removing the jaw all you have determined was the screw turn freely . I think that the nut is pressing against the screw witch is pressing against the jaw witch is forcing the jaw against the machine guides for the jaws . There should be end play in the screw threads so the jaw doesn't bind . You should be able to wiggle the screw with the jaw in the chuck no load . It's your chuck just giving you something to think about good luck .JM
The screws are loose. It's the jaws that are a too tight fit in the slots.
I was wrong . That would drive me crazy .
spline the axle those splines on the drum are hardened
Nope. It's cast iron.
I saw that with the first cut! hardly any resistance. I have never had any luck machining on any spline! Great job.@@Rustinox
I would pinch off the rear brake line and use only the fronts for that situation.😆
The start of a new adventure :)
What happened to the lathe saddle project from 11 months ago?
Well eh... nothing. I use it as is. It sort of works a bit :)
@@Rustinox dang. I am at the same place with mine. I Guess i will do the same. Thanks
Is that a pony in the background lol
Indeed, a pony. An old one.
Onwards and upwards! Great stuff. Thanks!
Thanks.