Thank you, brother, for making this video with great clarity. I have to tackle two separate tube light fixtures at my daughter's place. Her boyfriend replaced all 4 tube lights, but none work. It's not a circuit breaker, because the carport also has a regular bulb light, and that and the 2 tube lights are controlled by the same switch, and the bulb light works. I do have an ohmeter, and now I know how to test the ballists.
2:20 - 3:00 THE ACTUAL TEST. (Any reading other than _Outside the _Limit (OL) of the tester range with the probes between the white (neutral) and any of the lamp means that coil and therefore the whole ballast is bad.)
The other videos I have watched show to use the white wire coming out of the ballast itself, instead of the white coming from the ceiling. Does it matter ..???
The T designates tube, the 8 or 12 designates diameter of the tube, in eighths of an inch. 8 eighths is a 1” tube. 12 eighths is a 1-1/2” tube. T12 are the most common.
Thx Yzmoto for that valuable info. As far as most common, I think that may be regional. T8 is mostly what I see here, but when I lived in Florida and later in Alabama I saw more T12s. Regardless, the testing procedure would not change.
Just replaced my ballast that checked good using this method. If all lights go out at the same time; likely the ballast. Power to ballast but not out; bad ballast. I bought lights and ballast; now I have spare bulbs.
Thanks for the video. I tested my ballast - all seemed good. But it's definitely bad because I put a new one in and the lights work. Just curious what else can go bad in a ballast?
When you take the cover off you would still go probe black to power source white, assuming that there's no difference due to the manufacturer. If there is a clear manufacturer name stamped on the ballast, most companies offer wiring diagrams online for free these days - at least it's another option. Since I deal primarily with fixtures that are "daisy chained" from one to the next I don't really deal with plug in type fixtures. NOTE: Most plug in style fixtures do not use ballasts, but instead have a transformer in them. If that's the case, it would be simpler just to replace the fixture itself because you probably won't really save much in the way of time or money replacing a transformer due their cost.
So low resistance or continuity means it’s bad. Is that true for electronic not transformer ballasts? My electronic ballast failed to work but passed your test. I replaced it and problem solved. Electronic ballasts are basically switching power supplies that put out the high voltage without using a conventional transformer.
Your comment saved me (I think). My ballast also passed the test but just now found out it too is an electronic ballast, I'm hoping that all I need to do now is to do what you did and replaced it. THANK YOU!
They are coming from the ballast and are the ac inputs, live and neutral. They would then be wired into a terminal block on the light fitting where you would then connect the switched live and the neutral wire from the ceiling.
T8 is just he diameter. They measure the diameter's in 1/8's of an inch- So a "T8" is 8/8's of an inch.. or in other words 1" diameter. You can have T8 bulbs in many different lengths.
I bought a brand new Ballast from Homedepot and tested it using this method. The blue wire showed resistance. I used it anyway. It came out good. Is this method reliable?
This method only works for shorts in the transformers. If one of the other components inside the ballast is bad, this method may not give accurate results.
I have a T8 4ft 2 bulb fluorescent fixture with an emergency battery in it. The lights were off and I changed the bulb but it never worked. The test switch light is lit bright red. There is food voltage going in and the ballast is good. What might I Check next?
The red test light may indicate a dead battery. I'm not familiar with this type of light, but if you are getting power and the ballast is good, there is likely an issue in the switch. This might also keep the battery charger from engaging. There are numerous excellent troubleshooting videos out there on switch testing - I'd start there. If the switch is good, check voltage from there into and out of the charging mechanism. Please let us know how it turns out and thanks for your question.
There was an easier way to see if the ballast was good. Change out the bulbs with new bulbs and if it's lights there u go. If not it's the ballast. Although u still have to worry about the holders but not really as those are the last piece to the problem if it continues
That's a good starting point, but many newer lights have 2 ballasts - especially in commercial applications. Using this method you can isolate the faulty one instead of having to replace both. Thx for the comment!
Sounds great only problem with that is that if you have a 2 ballast on an emergency light and only two work brand new troffer mind you how can you check it ?
Thank you, brother, for making this video with great clarity. I have to tackle two separate tube light fixtures at my daughter's place. Her boyfriend replaced all 4 tube lights, but none work. It's not a circuit breaker, because the carport also has a regular bulb light, and that and the 2 tube lights are controlled by the same switch, and the bulb light works. I do have an ohmeter, and now I know how to test the ballists.
This is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for being so helpful! :)
Great job slidertoo. Straightforward and to the point.
Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for the info. Really appreciated
Thank you, Sir. So clear and simple instructions.
Thanks for the video. It really helped.
Thank you for this very helpful video. Have a great day.
Thank you! I think this is my issue. Two of the 4 led bulbs turns on then after 45 min or so it the 2 turns off and then back on again after sometime.
Thank You Very Much for get straight to the test some people want to be comics, personally i don't have time for comedy 👍👍
When you were hearing the beep, weren’t you essentially using Continuity mode on your multimeter? (continuity measured in ohms as well of course)
Good. Thanks for the effort to make the video.
This is a very good explanation. Thanks
2:20 - 3:00 THE ACTUAL TEST. (Any reading other than _Outside the _Limit (OL) of the tester range with the probes between the white (neutral) and any of the lamp means that coil and therefore the whole ballast is bad.)
Very helpful video and thanks a million.
The other videos I have watched show to use the white wire coming out of the ballast itself, instead of the white coming from the ceiling. Does it matter ..???
Thanks man..
Look at all these comments! You should write some of these people back.
The T designates tube, the 8 or 12 designates diameter of the tube, in eighths of an inch.
8 eighths is a 1” tube.
12 eighths is a 1-1/2” tube.
T12 are the most common.
Thx Yzmoto for that valuable info. As far as most common, I think that may be regional. T8 is mostly what I see here, but when I lived in Florida and later in Alabama I saw more T12s. Regardless, the testing procedure would not change.
Just replaced my ballast that checked good using this method. If all lights go out at the same time; likely the ballast. Power to ballast but not out; bad ballast. I bought lights and ballast; now I have spare bulbs.
is this magnetic ballast ?
What5 about input side--I would assume an open here would be bad --black vs white ??
Thanks for the video. I tested my ballast - all seemed good. But it's definitely bad because I put a new one in and the lights work. Just curious what else can go bad in a ballast?
Same here
Ok. How do you test a 8 Ft T12 light bulb with single tab if it’s good or not?
If you're testing a ballast from a plug in(not hardwired) fluorescent fixture, which wire would you connect the black (neg) probe to?
When you take the cover off you would still go probe black to power source white, assuming that there's no difference due to the manufacturer. If there is a clear manufacturer name stamped on the ballast, most companies offer wiring diagrams online for free these days - at least it's another option.
Since I deal primarily with fixtures that are "daisy chained" from one to the next I don't really deal with plug in type fixtures. NOTE: Most plug in style fixtures do not use ballasts, but instead have a transformer in them. If that's the case, it would be simpler just to replace the fixture itself because you probably won't really save much in the way of time or money replacing a transformer due their cost.
Nice! Thank you!
So low resistance or continuity means it’s bad. Is that true for electronic not transformer ballasts? My electronic ballast failed to work but passed your test. I replaced it and problem solved. Electronic ballasts are basically switching power supplies that put out the high voltage without using a conventional transformer.
Your comment saved me (I think). My ballast also passed the test but just now found out it too is an electronic ballast, I'm hoping that all I need to do now is to do what you did and replaced it. THANK YOU!
I’m not sure as to where the black and white wires in your video are coming from, or going to??? Thank you
They are coming from the ballast and are the ac inputs, live and neutral. They would then be wired into a terminal block on the light fitting where you would then connect the switched live and the neutral wire from the ceiling.
T8 is just he diameter. They measure the diameter's in 1/8's of an inch- So a "T8" is 8/8's of an inch.. or in other words 1" diameter. You can have T8 bulbs in many different lengths.
Every ballast does NOT have 2 yellow, red, and blue
if no measures, the ballast is OK??? Thanks.
Glad to assist!
I bought a brand new Ballast from Homedepot and tested it using this method. The blue wire showed resistance. I used it anyway. It came out good. Is this method reliable?
Not ever time. I just tested a bad ballast and it tested good.
This method only works for shorts in the transformers. If one of the other components inside the ballast is bad, this method may not give accurate results.
@@AjaxWolf1 Thank you for your reply. It is the time to get rid of ballast. When the ballast gets bad next time, I am going to convert to LED.
VERY NICE THANKS
Thanks Steve! Hope you found it useful.
I have a T8 4ft 2 bulb fluorescent fixture with an emergency battery in it. The lights were off and I changed the bulb but it never worked. The test switch light is lit bright red. There is food voltage going in and the ballast is good. What might I Check next?
The red test light may indicate a dead battery. I'm not familiar with this type of light, but if you are getting power and the ballast is good, there is likely an issue in the switch. This might also keep the battery charger from engaging. There are numerous excellent troubleshooting videos out there on switch testing - I'd start there. If the switch is good, check voltage from there into and out of the charging mechanism. Please let us know how it turns out and thanks for your question.
There was an easier way to see if the ballast was good. Change out the bulbs with new bulbs and if it's lights there u go. If not it's the ballast. Although u still have to worry about the holders but not really as those are the last piece to the problem if it continues
Brilliant! Doing it your way, and finding out the ballast is bad, you bought new bulbs for nothing.
@@DakotaFLHTCUI even the pros do it my way. Oh and a waste for buying new bulbs? More like spares in the future
That's a good starting point, but many newer lights have 2 ballasts - especially in commercial applications. Using this method you can isolate the faulty one instead of having to replace both. Thx for the comment!
@@slidertoo what lights are u talking about. All fluorescent tubes fixtures have 1 unless a 4 lamp T12 fixture
Sounds great only problem with that is that if you have a 2 ballast on an emergency light and only two work brand new troffer mind you how can you check it ?
No yellow🙄