FINALLY someone online aligns the table taking arm sag into account! I've seen so many radial arm saw alignment videos where they say just go around the table with your gauge or dial indicator and make sure it reads the same EVERYWHERE. I would always be so frustrated trying to follow that, first with my Craftsman and then with my Dewalt 7790, wondering what in the world was going wrong with my table...until I finally figured out that if the table is coplanar to a sagging arm, the upper left corners will read higher than the middle. Maybe on those old 1950s DeWalt MBF 9" saws, the smaller size and super heavy duty cast iron column and arm makes the sag less than .005" (as as least one claims on the Delphi Forum), but that's hard for me to believe. Your video matches how I align my 790, although I start with the middle support back to front and then do the sides (which I leave relatively loose at first so they can move as I align the middle support). Thanks for a great video!
I grew up using my Dad's DeWalt decades ago --- I have no use for modern cut off saws, etc, because I just got used to the convenience of the RAS. Just got a used Craftsman 10" RAS at auction for $100 and will have to replace the table on it, so your video here is just what I need as a good practical guide so I can get it up to speed.
+bodryn I'm sure you will really enjoy getting reconnected with the RAS. I still do quite a bit work away from home so it is necessary to keep one in the tools trailer. In fact I just bought a $130 Hatachi to replace my 40 something year old Rockwell, I doubt the new one will last as long as the old one did. Four generations of Waggoner men have made cuts using that old Rockwell.
Fantastic video Ed! I love it when someone explains something so directly simple. My father-in-law had a DeWalt radial arm saw that I was lucky enough to inherit when he passed away. He made the comment on a couple of occasions that he was never to get it to cut the way he thought it should. I put a new DeWalt blade on it and that made a world of difference, but I'm pretty sure the table was never set correctly after watching this video. I'm going to put a new table top on it and use your directions and I'm sure it will cut top notch. Thank you for your wonderful insight.
+Smedleydog1 Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to make all the other adjustments too. A flat table set to the arm is just the first in a series of adjustments. What model of DeWalt RAS do you have?
Nice large solid sturdy table! It's nice to have a large table so the wood is not hanging off the end for sometimes you are cutting longer boards. Take care & thank you for your cutting tips!
So nice to watch a man that knows his stuff. Thank you for making this. I am making a table for my Sears 10" saw I bought from the High School auction. So you can imagine the miss use it has received over the years. I have taken it apart as needed and cleaned, greased and oiled the bearings, column etc. so now everything moves as it should. I will diassemble the motor later and refurbish that also. I need it for some projects now. Again loved watching your video. God Bless.
I learned to put a planer blade on it and just lower it down and plane the deck. Comes out perfectly flat to the saw every time and takes about 3 minutes.
Hi Ed. My name is Tim and I just finished putting my Craftsman saw back together. It's a Craigslist find for $100. There have been a lot of different ones 40-60 miles away some even cheaper but I'm a disabled veteran and I don't travel well. Did a full teardown. It was so full of redwood and Cedar I thought that the guy made a lot of outdoor furniture. Figures, SW Florida. Anyway, it has a front table but no fence or back filler. My setup is different than yours but I just wanted to say that you gave me a nice presentation 😊. Didn't even think about using a piece of steel to set the gaps. The arm is square in all directions so I just thought to level the table to the saw. I'm going to use your Steel bar idea. It's safer than using my setup bars for metal working.
Go slow, enjoy the process. I really enjoy taking a saw that has been neglected and making it shine. My dad used the same Craftsman RAS for thirty-five years to make just about anything you can imagine. Dad's saw got a tune-up when ever my Uncle Val paid us a visit, every year or two.
@@edwaggonersr.7446 There are a few parts that I took to a folding table. Broke out my Dremel, some buffing wheels and metal polish. Those 3 aluminum pieces really shine. Now that it's all assembled, I can see the arbor end of the motor housing looks dull. I'm thinking of taking the gantry off the rails and polishing it too. On top there's overspray that makes the finish look dull and the front plastic cap has a sticker and it's yellowed. Everything else looks NEW or better than it ever was. Hmm. Don't think that I'm done yet.
@@edwaggonersr.7446 Had a Craftsman table saw when I was in the Navy. Gave it to my Wife's Dad when I was transferred to San Diego for a Satcom school. About 5 years ago I was looking for a new table saw and found it the same way, $60. Complete restoration. I like Woodworking but... Fixing things is where I shine.
Thank you Mr. Waggoner I'm in your debt. I went through most of the fasteners (cleaned and lubed w/Hoppe's No 9) on my Model MB Dewalt 9" ras (I previously said model m). It is lined up, much easier to use now and cuts dead square. I found a metal block to use as per the video and have other dedicated tools for it. I figure doing this every 61 years whether it needs it or not is a very good thing.
+gammarotor I see but I don't see some times. You told me you had a DeWalt saw and I ranted on about a Delta saw. But both of them have six adjustment screws. The second saw I set up had rusted, stripped or missing elevation adjusting screws; I replaced them all with 5/6 bolts with nuts and washers. Frankly I liked it better than the factory stuff.
Common sense stuff & an eye opener on using the machine to find correct levels. I'm well impressed, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!!!
+Gary Martin Thank you Gary for the kind words. After making the video and rethinking the process I would emphasize the importance of having the saw arbor centered over the bolts rather than the ends of the table; I believe this would have reduced the number of readjustments I had to make.
Ed - Thanks for the videos. I'm convinced that a good "1955-1965" radial arm saw, properly set up, is more accurate than just about anything you can purchase new today. I've got a Dewalt 925 that crosscuts to better than 0.01 degrees perfect. These saws (MBF and 925 etc.) can be found on Craigslist for less than $50 every day. Add $80 for a good table, some fasteners, and bearings, and spend a few hours cleaning it up, and you have a saw that will last a few lifetimes. Great work.
Raymond Rogers Thanks Raymond, these saws are pretty cheap on C/L, more so on the west coast than the rest of the country. Though deals can be had anywhere. I picked this saw up and Habitat for Humanity for $76.50. You're very close on the date, the DeWalt 790 series was manufactured from 1971-85 give or take a year. My saw was manufactured in 1971. Near Tacoma WA there is a nice 790 that has been on C/L a long time, $30.
David Milo My saw is a 7790 Type 1. I assumed it was manufactured in the first year of 7790 production, 1971. I had to extrapolate for a date given me by a another owner of a 7790 Type 4 saw. You can check here: vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=4 I never did find a definitive answer in my quest, but I am satisfied that it is a 1971 model year. I hope this helps.
Thanks for a great video. My Dewalt requires a little adjustment, well it is about 30 odd years old from new and she's done loads and loads of work, never let me down. Don't have the model number but will find it tomorrow when in my shed. Busy at the moment making wagon wheels. Finding the perfect angle for 22.5 degree a little hard, cannot go off the dial guide so have to play around a little till I get the perfect angle. Yes, we call them sheds and you call them shops all the same when having fun in them making shavings and sawdust. From over the Pond, North East Coast, England
+ziggydog24 I don't move my saw from the 90* cross-cut position except to rip. If I need an angle I mark it out on a 2' x 2' x 1/2" MDF and nail (or screw) on a fence. The math is easy A squared + B squared = C squared. 3x3 + 4x4 = 5x5
Great video Ed. It is people like yourself who take their precious time and share that makes You Tube a great tool. I also like your video and sound, can you just share what you use. The last couple of days I am like a sponge looking at your videos. I am 99% sure I am good to go on my RAS with your help. Keep up with the video,s, maybe a project or two, maybe show us those shelfs or drawers you said you were going to install under your router table. My first project is a book shelf , my daughter requested one. I am going to use pocket hole screws and shelf pins. Having both those jigs I am looking forward to the project. Thanks again Ed for all your videos
Peter, thanks for the kind words. I use a Tascam DR-05 recorder with a Sony FCM-CS3 for sound; for Video I use a Canon Vixia HF R400. If and when I do more videos I may change to Canon T6s DSLR.
This was a great video. I did everything exactly the same including smoking a cigarette. But my only mistake was smoking the cigarette too short. Had I known that after that last puff I was going to burn my fingers, I would’ve stopped sooner. Perhaps you can give a warning about that in future videos😊
Ed, I have a (1972) Craftsman I0-INCH Radial Arm Saw and still have the manual for it, it shows to use the "arbor plumb bob technique" similar to how you do it here, but a little different, it shows to check the front and back of both right and left table supports, (Before the table is installed, mind you this is how they suggest you to do it when you are assembling it from new) that is how I did it when I replaced the table a couple years ago (Sears still has parts for all of my 70's Craftsman tools) luckily they were still spot on, it does not show to check it after the table is installed but I did anyway and I guess unnecessarily check six points not four, I did all four corners of the table (which were fine because of setting the table supports first) and front and back at the center (blade travel). I am thinking that by setting the table supports first it may save headaches once the table is installed.
Mark, "I am thinking that by setting the table supports first it may save headaches once the table it installed." I will definitely do exactly that next time I install a table. Thanks for the observation and the tip.
+Ed Waggoner Sr. (Papatch) You are welcome, I love this saw because when it is tuned in, it is basically a compound miter saw on steroids, it is a table saw/compound miter saw all in one, although you can rip with them, I will not do that anymore, I have had issues with the boards shifting (using the saw by myself, it is hard to keep long boards running strait) and binding the blade (knocking the motor out of alignment, and setting up the motor alignment is a time consuming and sometimes frustrating event) and obviously ruining the cut so I do all rips now on my table saw, but do all other cuts on it, all miters, compound miters, cross cuts and even dado's.
Ed, wanted to get back to you saying everything is working out great on the RAS. I am going to add a outfeed table for it. I also bought a Dewalt sliding compound miter saw. So now on the bench I have one long fence.i can use either one when I throw a board up there. I am going to resurface the RAS table again and change out the fence. I have to see how you get those square. I did not remove the old fence on the radial, I just screwed another wood strip to it but I want to fix that. I don.t know if I should take all the wood off and start with the metal frame. Well again I wanted to thank you for past advice....Pete
Ed, Do you have a contact other then You Tube some where?? I ripped my table off and I could not believe how bad it was. The guy I bought it from used 2 by 6,s and a furring strip for his fence. he kept it all in place with a edging. Really messed up situation. I am going to buy thew MDF and give that a go. I have some pictures of the table is why I asked about your contact. I snapped some of the way it was and how it is now without the table. This guy tapped the wood underneath with 1/4 20 bolts?? I thought well maybe he had inserts in there for the bolts to grab and it was just tight into the wood. Really weird
Nice presentation and great detail, Ed! One thing, however, your track (arm) bearings should be adjusted to have a slight drag when you pull the saw through the cut. As shown in your video, they are excessively loose and will affect not only the precision of the cut, but is dangerous to the operator of the saw when the motor can slide along the arm without any resistance whatsoever. Please take this as a suggestion in the spirit which it is given. Keep up the great work!
Thanks 100nortonfan, you are of course correct. I adjusted the bearings tight enough that I could not keep them from rolling with as much thumb pressure as I could apply. I also tested the pull with a fish scale and found it to be 6 LB. When cross-cutting I use a coil spring return, which I really like.
Ed, where should you start with the angle iron, dead in the middle so you can adjust up or down, or all the way down in the back and all the way up in the front. When I was done adjusting the back was almost to the end of adjustment going up and the front was touching frame in the front. I think if I started with all the way down I the back and all the way up in the front it would make the leveling easier.
Lewis, I did two videos on leveling the table. The second was, in my opinion, the better method. A third option is to eliminate the angle iron brackets and replace them with 6 or 9 5/16" nuts and bolts with holes drilled through the top and the saw frame. Using this method the saw arbor can be placed directly over each of the bolts, which eliminates the cantilever effect that is so troubling. I always found it easier to adjust the table on Delta saws for this reason, Delta saws use bolts instead of angle iron.
Ed I am rebuilding my 790 radial arm saw. I have lost the capacitor. Could you please look inside the box and see what the number of it is? I was in the process of changing it from 220 to 110 and lost it. Frankly having problems figuring out the correct way to wire up to 110. Any help would be greatly appreciate. Gary
Thank you Ed, this was very usefull! I have a DW125 myself but the essentials are the same, this is the first video i found for correctly adjusting my table, again thank you very much! Greeting from James from Holland
I think my De Walt DW125 powershop is about 35 years old, i bought it second hand but it's still running fine but i could find a good instruction to solve the adjustment of the table, but with your video's i 'll get the job done, thanks again Ed!
Nice movie and a fine explanation, I really liked the smoke break, and your machine looks brand new, but why do you only have three bolts on ea angle and two in the middle one, I have five on ea angle? Did you feel you just didn't need them or does it only have that many mounting holes?
Marc Lewis There are three angle braces that support the table, the edge braces has three bolts through the table, the center has only two, all three braces have two bolts through the base. Yes there are more hole, but you don't use them because the back boards are held in place by clamps and can be rearranged so as to move the fence closer to the column. I do take a smoke break on occasion, but my camera has a smoke filter on it to protect the viewers who might be "highly allergic".
Ed, Guling up all those boards would be a problem for this disabled Vet. I have a question. Why can,t I remove my table and put MDF on it and then another piece on top of the first. I checked what I have now for a table underneath after I removed the scraicful top and the other owner used 2&6,s laying flat. I checked it and it is no where near flat. I have a square that rocks from front to back a good 1/16 to 1/8 inch. So the existing needs to go. I just do not want to have glued boards every where. So maybe you can send me some other advice..... Pete
Pete, A lot of guys use MDF doubled up like you are suggesting, I haven't tried it myself; but I have used it for other projects. A couple of tips: 1) cut it to size and let it acclimate to your shop for a couple of days before gluing it up. 2) If there is any bow at all in the two pieces make sure you glue up cup to cup or bow to bow (use lots of clamps); this should even out any discrepancy and keep the center tight without needing screws. 3) After glue up coat all sides and edges with lacquer or oil based paint to keep any moisture out. 4) Make sure to top everything off with a 3/8" plywood sacrificial top. 5) Because MDF chips easily I would put on a hardwood edge. Let us all know how it comes out. What model of saw did you end up getting? Cheers.
WoodWorkWeb Thanks Colin. I think the RAS would be more appreciated if folks knew more about them. I am so convinced of this that when the DeWalt 790 is completed I plan on selling my table saw and using the proceeds to purchase a bigger six inch jointer with a longer table. My shop is small.
+gammarotor Thanks. I've set up a couple of 9" Delta saw from the 50s. I found them easier to set up than the Dewalt with the three 90* angle supports. The cantilever problem is non-existent, simply adjust the table height at each of the support bolts. Check, readjust a couple of time and you're done. If I ever do a DeWalt 790 again I may very well drill and install nine adjustment bolts. If I was a bit taller I think I would prefer the Delta saws over the DeWalt. But I do like the 790. Enjoy the saw.
+Ed Waggoner Sr. (Papatch) On this model there's six adjustment screws 4 two inch phillips screws and two 1 and 1/2" studs with allen sockets. all with above the base "Jack nuts" and below the base "lock nuts'. Since there are three on each side I'm going to go in a sequence of the middle ones being the fulcrum and the others moving up and /or down also left and right. Thank you very much for your information.
gammarotor If there are middle adjustments leave them loose until last. The center rear support is adjusted only to make the back of the table straight. The center front support is then adjusted so that it matches the center rear support. Good luck.
Hi I have a dewalt radial arm saw model 1500, I think the motor shaft has a connection for a router nut on the they opposite end of the saw, is this correct? thanks.
great. I'd thanks I'm going to get one ,I tried to cut some boards the other day and had a night mare tying to get them square using a hand saw I have got to get one now ,I was wondering how it was set up thanks rl I'm formative,
It's still not clear how you acquired a $4,000 saw, in immaculate show condition? That saw is selling for $4000, in "refurbished" condition by online vendors. I wish I could find one that nice. So far, the used Dewalts that are for sale are in the worst condition, and you have to wonder if people drove around with the saws in the back of their pickup truck for decades. How the hell do you smash up a beautiful million dollar precision machine tool? These saws were the equivalent of $1200 to $2,000 new back in the day.
The crescent wrench is hands down the worst tool ever invented. Unless of course I misunderstand it and it's intended purpose was to be an efficient bolt stripper all along.
FINALLY someone online aligns the table taking arm sag into account! I've seen so many radial arm saw alignment videos where they say just go around the table with your gauge or dial indicator and make sure it reads the same EVERYWHERE. I would always be so frustrated trying to follow that, first with my Craftsman and then with my Dewalt 7790, wondering what in the world was going wrong with my table...until I finally figured out that if the table is coplanar to a sagging arm, the upper left corners will read higher than the middle. Maybe on those old 1950s DeWalt MBF 9" saws, the smaller size and super heavy duty cast iron column and arm makes the sag less than .005" (as as least one claims on the Delphi Forum), but that's hard for me to believe. Your video matches how I align my 790, although I start with the middle support back to front and then do the sides (which I leave relatively loose at first so they can move as I align the middle support). Thanks for a great video!
I grew up using my Dad's DeWalt decades ago --- I have no use for modern cut off saws, etc, because I just got used to the convenience of the RAS. Just got a used Craftsman 10" RAS at auction for $100 and will have to replace the table on it, so your video here is just what I need as a good practical guide so I can get it up to speed.
+bodryn I'm sure you will really enjoy getting reconnected with the RAS. I still do quite a bit work away from home so it is necessary to keep one in the tools trailer. In fact I just bought a $130 Hatachi to replace my 40 something year old Rockwell, I doubt the new one will last as long as the old one did. Four generations of Waggoner men have made cuts using that old Rockwell.
Ed Waggoner Sr. I'll be interested in seeing videos of those different kinds.
Fantastic video Ed! I love it when someone explains something so directly simple. My father-in-law had a DeWalt radial arm saw that I was lucky enough to inherit when he passed away. He made the comment on a couple of occasions that he was never to get it to cut the way he thought it should. I put a new DeWalt blade on it and that made a world of difference, but I'm pretty sure the table was never set correctly after watching this video. I'm going to put a new table top on it and use your directions and I'm sure it will cut top notch. Thank you for your wonderful insight.
+Smedleydog1 Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to make all the other adjustments too. A flat table set to the arm is just the first in a series of adjustments. What model of DeWalt RAS do you have?
Loved it when we went for a smoke!!!
Nice large solid sturdy table! It's nice to have a large table so the wood is not hanging off the end for sometimes you are cutting longer boards.
Take care & thank you for your cutting tips!
So nice to watch a man that knows his stuff. Thank you for making this. I am making a table for my Sears 10" saw I bought from the High School auction. So you can imagine the miss use it has received over the years. I have taken it apart as needed and cleaned, greased and oiled the bearings, column etc. so now everything moves as it should. I will diassemble the motor later and refurbish that also. I need it for some projects now. Again loved watching your video. God Bless.
Enjoy the refurbish, I know I always did. Thanks for the kind words.
@@edwaggonersr.7446 Your Welcome.
I learned to put a planer blade on it and just lower it down and plane the deck. Comes out perfectly flat to the saw every time and takes about 3 minutes.
Hi Ed. My name is Tim and I just finished putting my Craftsman saw back together. It's a Craigslist find for $100. There have been a lot of different ones 40-60 miles away some even cheaper but I'm a disabled veteran and I don't travel well. Did a full teardown.
It was so full of redwood and Cedar I thought that the guy made a lot of outdoor furniture. Figures, SW Florida. Anyway, it has a front table but no fence or back filler.
My setup is different than yours but I just wanted to say that you gave me a nice presentation 😊.
Didn't even think about using a piece of steel to set the gaps.
The arm is square in all directions so I just thought to level the table to the saw. I'm going to use your Steel bar idea. It's safer than using my setup bars for metal working.
Go slow, enjoy the process. I really enjoy taking a saw that has been neglected and making it shine. My dad used the same Craftsman RAS for thirty-five years to make just about anything you can imagine. Dad's saw got a tune-up when ever my Uncle Val paid us a visit, every year or two.
@@edwaggonersr.7446 There are a few parts that I took to a folding table. Broke out my Dremel, some buffing wheels and metal polish. Those 3 aluminum pieces really shine. Now that it's all assembled, I can see the arbor end of the motor housing looks dull. I'm thinking of taking the gantry off the rails and polishing it too. On top there's overspray that makes the finish look dull and the front plastic cap has a sticker and it's yellowed. Everything else looks NEW or better than it ever was.
Hmm. Don't think that I'm done yet.
@@timthomas9105 Seems as though you are enjoying the process. It won't be long before you find another RAS to fix up.
@@edwaggonersr.7446 Had a Craftsman table saw when I was in the Navy. Gave it to my Wife's Dad when I was transferred to San Diego for a Satcom school. About 5 years ago I was looking for a new table saw and found it the same way, $60. Complete restoration. I like Woodworking but... Fixing things is where I shine.
Thank you Mr. Waggoner I'm in your debt. I went through most of the fasteners (cleaned and lubed w/Hoppe's No 9) on my Model MB Dewalt 9" ras (I previously said model m). It is lined up, much easier to use now and cuts dead square. I found a metal block to use as per the video and have other dedicated tools for it. I figure doing this every 61 years whether it needs it or not is a very good thing.
+gammarotor I see but I don't see some times. You told me you had a DeWalt saw and I ranted on about a Delta saw. But both of them have six adjustment screws. The second saw I set up had rusted, stripped or missing elevation adjusting screws; I replaced them all with 5/6 bolts with nuts and washers. Frankly I liked it better than the factory stuff.
The best RAS video I have found so far! Thanks...
Common sense stuff & an eye opener on using the machine to find correct levels. I'm well impressed, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!!!
+Gary Martin Thank you Gary for the kind words. After making the video and rethinking the process I would emphasize the importance of having the saw arbor centered over the bolts rather than the ends of the table; I believe this would have reduced the number of readjustments I had to make.
Ed - Thanks for the videos. I'm convinced that a good "1955-1965" radial arm saw, properly set up, is more accurate than just about anything you can purchase new today. I've got a Dewalt 925 that crosscuts to better than 0.01 degrees perfect.
These saws (MBF and 925 etc.) can be found on Craigslist for less than $50 every day. Add $80 for a good table, some fasteners, and bearings, and spend a few hours cleaning it up, and you have a saw that will last a few lifetimes.
Great work.
Raymond Rogers Thanks Raymond, these saws are pretty cheap on C/L, more so on the west coast than the rest of the country. Though deals can be had anywhere. I picked this saw up and Habitat for Humanity for $76.50. You're very close on the date, the DeWalt 790 series was manufactured from 1971-85 give or take a year. My saw was manufactured in 1971. Near Tacoma WA there is a nice 790 that has been on C/L a long time, $30.
David Milo My saw is a 7790 Type 1. I assumed it was manufactured in the first year of 7790 production, 1971. I had to extrapolate for a date given me by a another owner of a 7790 Type 4 saw. You can check here: vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=4 I never did find a definitive answer in my quest, but I am satisfied that it is a 1971 model year. I hope this helps.
Thanks for a great video. My Dewalt requires a little adjustment, well it is about 30 odd years old from new and she's done loads and loads of work, never let me down. Don't have the model number but will find it tomorrow when in my shed. Busy at the moment making wagon wheels. Finding the perfect angle for 22.5 degree a little hard, cannot go off the dial guide so have to play around a little till I get the perfect angle. Yes, we call them sheds and you call them shops all the same when having fun in them making shavings and sawdust. From over the Pond, North East Coast, England
+ziggydog24 I don't move my saw from the 90* cross-cut position except to rip. If I need an angle I mark it out on a 2' x 2' x 1/2" MDF and nail (or screw) on a fence. The math is easy A squared + B squared = C squared. 3x3 + 4x4 = 5x5
Great video Ed. It is people like yourself who take their precious time and share that makes You Tube a great tool. I also like your video and sound, can you just share what you use. The last couple of days I am like a sponge looking at your videos. I am 99% sure I am good to go on my RAS with your help. Keep up with the video,s, maybe a project or two, maybe show us those shelfs or drawers you said you were going to install under your router table. My first project is a book shelf , my daughter requested one. I am going to use pocket hole screws and shelf pins. Having both those jigs I am looking forward to the project. Thanks again Ed for all your videos
Peter, thanks for the kind words. I use a Tascam DR-05 recorder with a Sony FCM-CS3 for sound; for Video I use a Canon Vixia HF R400. If and when I do more videos I may change to Canon T6s DSLR.
This was a great video. I did everything exactly the same including smoking a cigarette. But my only mistake was smoking the cigarette too short. Had I known that after that last puff I was going to burn my fingers, I would’ve stopped sooner. Perhaps you can give a warning about that in future videos😊
Waste not want not, is what Grandma use to say. What brand and model saw are you setting up?
Ed, I have a (1972) Craftsman I0-INCH Radial Arm Saw and still have the manual for it, it shows to use the "arbor plumb bob technique" similar to how you do it here, but a little different, it shows to check the front and back of both right and left table supports, (Before the table is installed, mind you this is how they suggest you to do it when you are assembling it from new) that is how I did it when I replaced the table a couple years ago (Sears still has parts for all of my 70's Craftsman tools) luckily they were still spot on, it does not show to check it after the table is installed but I did anyway and I guess unnecessarily check six points not four, I did all four corners of the table (which were fine because of setting the table supports first) and front and back at the center (blade travel).
I am thinking that by setting the table supports first it may save headaches once the table is installed.
Mark, "I am thinking that by setting the table supports first it may save headaches once the table it installed." I will definitely do exactly that next time I install a table. Thanks for the observation and the tip.
+Ed Waggoner Sr. (Papatch) You are welcome, I love this saw because when it is tuned in, it is basically a compound miter saw on steroids, it is a table saw/compound miter saw all in one, although you can rip with them, I will not do that anymore, I have had issues with the boards shifting (using the saw by myself, it is hard to keep long boards running strait) and binding the blade (knocking the motor out of alignment, and setting up the motor alignment is a time consuming and sometimes frustrating event) and obviously ruining the cut so I do all rips now on my table saw, but do all other cuts on it, all miters, compound miters, cross cuts and even dado's.
Thank You Mr Waggoner.....it was very useful information.....cheers from Florida, Paul
Wow! 42.5k views. I just picked up a Craftsman 12" for 30 bucks. This set-up info is very helpful. Thanks.
Ed, wanted to get back to you saying everything is working out great on the RAS. I am going to add a outfeed table for it. I also bought a Dewalt sliding compound miter saw. So now on the bench I have one long fence.i can use either one when I throw a board up there. I am going to resurface the RAS table again and change out the fence. I have to see how you get those square. I did not remove the old fence on the radial, I just screwed another wood strip to it but I want to fix that. I don.t know if I should take all the wood off and start with the metal frame. Well again I wanted to thank you for past advice....Pete
You are welcome, I am glad my videos have inspired and helped.
Ed, Do you have a contact other then You Tube some where?? I ripped my table off and I could not believe how bad it was. The guy I bought it from used 2 by 6,s and a furring strip for his fence. he kept it all in place with a edging. Really messed up situation. I am going to buy thew MDF and give that a go. I have some pictures of the table is why I asked about your contact. I snapped some of the way it was and how it is now without the table. This guy tapped the wood underneath with 1/4 20 bolts?? I thought well maybe he had inserts in there for the bolts to grab and it was just tight into the wood. Really weird
Sure, provide me with an email address. I will copy it and immediately delete your post from the comments section.
are you on Facebook???
Yes, I am on facebook. You will see a photo of my little dog.
Thanks for the info . I'm setting up my DeWalt radial arm saw tonight..
Nice presentation and great detail, Ed! One thing, however, your track (arm) bearings should be adjusted to have a slight drag when you pull the saw through the cut. As shown in your video, they are excessively loose and will affect not only the precision of the cut, but is dangerous to the operator of the saw when the motor can slide along the arm without any resistance whatsoever. Please take this as a suggestion in the spirit which it is given. Keep up the great work!
Thanks 100nortonfan, you are of course correct. I adjusted the bearings tight enough that I could not keep them from rolling with as much thumb pressure as I could apply. I also tested the pull with a fish scale and found it to be 6 LB. When cross-cutting I use a coil spring return, which I really like.
Ed, where should you start with the angle iron, dead in the middle so you can adjust up or down, or all the way down in the back and all the way up in the front. When I was done adjusting the back was almost to the end of adjustment going up and the front was touching frame in the front. I think if I started with all the way down I the back and all the way up in the front it would make the leveling easier.
Lewis, I did two videos on leveling the table. The second was, in my opinion, the better method. A third option is to eliminate the angle iron brackets and replace them with 6 or 9 5/16" nuts and bolts with holes drilled through the top and the saw frame. Using this method the saw arbor can be placed directly over each of the bolts, which eliminates the cantilever effect that is so troubling. I always found it easier to adjust the table on Delta saws for this reason, Delta saws use bolts instead of angle iron.
hi,great info, I have been given a Dewalt 7749 ras which I will be refurbishing soon. this will help out once I get to setting the table up.
I happy I could help. Good luck with your project.
Ed I am rebuilding my 790 radial arm saw. I have lost the capacitor. Could you please look inside the box and see what the number of it is? I was in the process of changing it from 220 to 110 and lost it. Frankly having problems figuring out the correct way to wire up to 110. Any help would be greatly appreciate. Gary
Thank you Ed, this was very usefull! I have a DW125 myself but the essentials are the same, this is the first video i found for correctly adjusting my table, again thank you very much! Greeting from James from Holland
Thanks Jacob. I think I did a couple other videos on table adjustments.
Jacob, I'm not familiar with the DW125???
I think my De Walt DW125 powershop is about 35 years old, i bought it second hand but it's still running fine but i could find a good instruction to solve the adjustment of the table, but with your video's i 'll get the job done, thanks again Ed!
Thank you sir for this video, it is very helpful. I am beginning work on a new table today and your advice will be out to good use.
Thank you Michigan Hiker. I'm happy that the video was of value to you.
Nice movie and a fine explanation, I really liked the smoke break, and your machine looks brand new, but why do you only have three bolts on ea angle and two in the middle one, I have five on ea angle? Did you feel you just didn't need them or does it only have that many mounting holes?
Marc Lewis There are three angle braces that support the table, the edge braces has three bolts through the table, the center has only two, all three braces have two bolts through the base. Yes there are more hole, but you don't use them because the back boards are held in place by clamps and can be rearranged so as to move the fence closer to the column. I do take a smoke break on occasion, but my camera has a smoke filter on it to protect the viewers who might be "highly allergic".
Awesome….thanks for sharing!
Ed, Guling up all those boards would be a problem for this disabled Vet. I have a question. Why can,t I remove my table and put MDF on it and then another piece on top of the first. I checked what I have now for a table underneath after I removed the scraicful top and the other owner used 2&6,s laying flat. I checked it and it is no where near flat. I have a square that rocks from front to back a good 1/16 to 1/8 inch. So the existing needs to go. I just do not want to have glued boards every where. So maybe you can send me some other advice..... Pete
Pete, A lot of guys use MDF doubled up like you are suggesting, I haven't tried it myself; but I have used it for other projects. A couple of tips: 1) cut it to size and let it acclimate to your shop for a couple of days before gluing it up. 2) If there is any bow at all in the two pieces make sure you glue up cup to cup or bow to bow (use lots of clamps); this should even out any discrepancy and keep the center tight without needing screws. 3) After glue up coat all sides and edges with lacquer or oil based paint to keep any moisture out. 4) Make sure to top everything off with a 3/8" plywood sacrificial top. 5) Because MDF chips easily I would put on a hardwood edge. Let us all know how it comes out. What model of saw did you end up getting? Cheers.
Good technique Ed ... thanks
WoodWorkWeb Thanks Colin. I think the RAS would be more appreciated if folks knew more about them. I am so convinced of this that when the DeWalt 790 is completed I plan on selling my table saw and using the proceeds to purchase a bigger six inch jointer with a longer table. My shop is small.
Thank you Sir. This is more useful detail than the instruction manual. I have an "M" model 9" Dewalt RAS from the fifties.
+gammarotor Thanks. I've set up a couple of 9" Delta saw from the 50s. I found them easier to set up than the Dewalt with the three 90* angle supports. The cantilever problem is non-existent, simply adjust the table height at each of the support bolts. Check, readjust a couple of time and you're done. If I ever do a DeWalt 790 again I may very well drill and install nine adjustment bolts. If I was a bit taller I think I would prefer the Delta saws over the DeWalt. But I do like the 790. Enjoy the saw.
+Ed Waggoner Sr. (Papatch) On this model there's six adjustment screws 4 two inch phillips screws and two 1 and 1/2" studs with allen sockets. all with above the base "Jack nuts" and below the base "lock nuts'. Since there are three on each side I'm going to go in a sequence of the middle ones being the fulcrum and the others moving up and /or down also left and right. Thank you very much for your information.
gammarotor If there are middle adjustments leave them loose until last. The center rear support is adjusted only to make the back of the table straight. The center front support is then adjusted so that it matches the center rear support. Good luck.
thanx super instruction...an thanx for not being scared to smoke
The anti-smoking nuts are a bunch of Nazi bullies, IMO.
Hi
I have a dewalt radial arm saw model 1500, I think the motor shaft has a connection for a router nut on the they opposite end of the saw, is this correct? thanks.
Hola nesecito el interutor de esa maquina me peden ayudar estoy en venezuela
Thanks Ed, great video, I just acquired a 10" RAS and am in the process of building the table. BTW... love the smokes!
Ed you give some great information. Thanks.
Hi, Thank you very much for yours lesson, you are a great man and great teacher. 2019 11 23 Saint-Joseph de Mékinac, Trois-Rives, Québec et Labrador
thanks good tips and pointers..and patience..
great. I'd thanks I'm going to get one ,I tried to cut some boards the other day and had a night mare tying to get them square using a hand saw I have got to get one now ,I was wondering how it was set up thanks rl I'm formative,
+LOZBRY I'm happy that you found the video useful.
thanks man 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
THANKS amigo. from mexico.
Now I'm an international celebrity. Muchas gracias mi amigo!
This was very helpful. Thanks
just won't to know how to set up the base on the craftsman 10 in radial guard
Thanks from Pasty land in UK.
Cornishrob, cheers. I glad the video was helpful to you.
Great video. thank you a lot.
donde encuentro una sierra
radial dewalt
thank you very helpful!!
Thank you Darren, I am so glad the video was helpful.
Ok Ed Thank you
It's still not clear how you acquired a $4,000 saw, in immaculate show condition? That saw is selling for $4000, in "refurbished" condition by online vendors. I wish I could find one that nice. So far, the used Dewalts that are for sale are in the worst condition, and you have to wonder if people drove around with the saws in the back of their pickup truck for decades. How the hell do you smash up a beautiful million dollar precision machine tool? These saws were the equivalent of $1200 to $2,000 new back in the day.
Sorry, I had to go,the smoke is hard on my lungs.
I have a smoke filter on my camera lens.
comentario encastellano
Using feel? is so not the way dial indicator is the ONLY way to adjust your table this way is a waste of time
I say BS. It works perfectly fine.
The crescent wrench is hands down the worst tool ever invented. Unless of course I misunderstand it and it's intended purpose was to be an efficient bolt stripper all along.
Amen to that. But dang, it always seems to be close at hand. You never have to hunt for a Crescent Wrench.
just won't to know how to set up the base on the craftsman 10 in radial guard
just won't to know how to set up the base on the craftsman 10 in radial guard
just won't to know how to set up the base on the craftsman 10 in radial guard