What a brilliant idea. This is absolutely going to be something I am going to try!... thank you :) I have been simply smearing on liquid nails... it makes my prints stronger and Its so cheap. Works great on large areas. Works well if you don't own a spray gun. And is super fast to apply... for example in this video it would be ideal for fixing the eyes. I'd also recommend using Tamiya white primer as it's super thin and gives the best overall smooth finish period.
Its a cool trick. I have done this before with just thinning glazing putty with acetone and brushing it on. The only thing I would STRONGLY suggest for videos like this is that you should spray outdoors or in a booth that evacuates the fumes. Its not just about particles but inhaling acetone fumes is incredibly hazardous. You should also recommend a proper respirator and not just a filter mask. A NIOSH approved respirator with 3M 6001 cartridges at a minimum. Nice videos and channel BTW
yea I already have a part 2 with proper ppe in the works. It is a low amount of acetone which once aerated almost instantaneously evaporates & I did state DONT do this indoors so part 2 I’m trying a bigger gravity receptical & touch more on solvent content & protection. Thank you for your input, you always have great builds and feedback!
@@Darkwingdad Also, just for anyone reading this who doesn't have much experience with painting, *acetone and most other solvents are extremely flammable!* Another reason to do this outside is to avoid creating an explosive atmosphere in an enclosed space. This amount of acetone probably isn't a huge concern unless you're doing this in a very small space, but any time you're atomizing a volatile liquid, you need to be incredibly careful to eliminate any possible ignition sources and prevent the buildup of vapor. You don't want to turn your closet into a thermobaric bomb.
@@a.p.2356 100% but than again it’s like keeping gasoline in a gas can, there’s always a risk, same as an aerosol can or anything that is combustible. I just did a ppe video covering more on this. Acetone along with many other solvents are flammable as you stated. The option I show in the video is safer if your concerned with using an electric compressor. It’s unfortunately a risk with all paints. Nice thing about acetone it’s the simplest ketone & volatile when exposed to UV. So doing it outside is not a bad thing! Thank you for the input!
@@donaldsnyder6201 I use slick sand, I have 2 videos of it up. It’s definitely a great product. Needs specific ppe & set up that not everyone is accustomed to. You just have to be careful with it bc it can definitely fill in areas that are defined & precise. But it is a great product 100%
This is crazy. I had no idea that you could thin glazing putty into this spray consistency. For a single project, the air brush is good (and that mixture will definitely tube feed with a jar), but with larger projects, I'd have little issue with upsizing to a touch-up gun and dropping the pressure to get more of an HVLP spray, for quick buildup. Also, just keep a lidded plastic container with acetone to store your spray heads, reservoirs, and any metal part (no rubber or plastic) that you want to keep clean - just a quick acetone rinse before using, then back into the acetone storage container when done. Can't wait to try it- thx.
Hey dude, congrats on the Uncle Jessy recommendation of your channel and revisit this technique for post print smoothing! I’m currently working on another proton pack and will definitely be trying this out. :-)
Check out Barbatos Rex's video on an awesome airbrush that could be perfect for this application. He uses it for primers but this is fairly similar. The video title starts with "Testing Hobby Mio's $28 Spray System Airbrush" Trust me on this one guys!!!
Constructive feedback here you tend to repeat yourself a fair bit more than most youtubers I would suggest being more vigilant of how often you say certain things because it really eats video time when you spend 2-3 minutes talking about how fast the dry times are. Other than that I absolutely salute you for sharing this method thank you! 😊
Just trying to reiterate facts for people, I am trying to keep the videos shorter & that’ll definitely help! Thank you for the feedback, I talk too much lol I appreciate the watch & constructive criticism!
As someone that has been designing and delivering information professionally to huge audiences for decades, important facts should always be repeated multiple times. As 50% of normal people miss things or forget instantly, and then you have viewers with special needs. I think your delivery was top-tier professional.
I did not know about spot putty until now I would always spray thick with primer filler and sand it down and it somehow works but I will definitely give this a try.
I love Bondo glazing putty for it's dry/dusty nature when you sand it. I use it in combination with a rapid build primer to turn resin prints into mould masters. I've tried several other products that were a bit "gummy" which makes it impossible to get a nice finish. I never thought of thinnning it and spraying though, great tip!
Acetone is an organic vapor, best to use a cartridge respirator if you are going to be doing a lot of this. The filter mask just keeps out the spray solids .
This is a kick ass method! Doing this also keeps sharp edge details intact and doesn't round off stuff... I might try this out with my tube of green spot putty by 3M
It should work just fine, I know the 3M acrylgreen is more expensive so that’s the only reason I didn’t use it but you’re exactly right in your statement & along with 5 min or less sanding time & easy sanding it’s a killer way to clean up prints! Thanks for the feedback!
@@Darkwingdad I'm currently working on engineered parts for urethane casting and now I feel like going back to and trying this on some of the parts that are messed up
@@KRGraphicsCG not with this method. I have al alternative method spraying a polyester body filler that is thicker. But I’ve had luck scaling things down .25% and after the filler they fit excellent
Ah, it seems my comment in support of this technique was removed when the person I replied to deleted their comment. I won't rewrite it all since it was quite wordy, but so that it's on the record, I applaud your ingenuity and this seems like a really useful technique for someone like me who goes through a LOT of filler primer (applying spot putty by hand is annoying IMO). Nice work!
Man, I was about to go do all the thin glazing manually when I saw you did this with an airbrush and I just got one I about lost it 😂 If you have any more tips on this process after about a year I'd love to hear it. Great video 👍
i had to run all over town for a week to find bondo spot putty. Someone had said to mix it with water and that turned out to be the dumbest thing I've tried. Pretty happy with the putty even without owning an air brush
@@davidz2016 thank you so much! Really trying to differentiate the channel & show people practical methods & results that work & what to avoid! Comments like these let me know I’m doing it right!
Because acetone and Bondo aren't toxic to breath lol. Interesting technique. What about using thick primer? Would this not give similar or the same results?
Acetone is in every rattle can you’ve ever used, not much different as far as safety & ppe goes. Sla resin can cause chemicals burns, blistering, blindness & more. Much more ppe required. This method is no different than simply painting. You can use a sprayable filler but it’s pricier & even more toxic than using just acetone/putty. Filler primer which are in aerosols do not fill anywhere as much or dry as fast as this method I have a comparison video on the 2, it’s not even close.
Sometimes removing some of the material gives the best results. If you do not want some angles to be rounded out for example. Sanding is a pain however because the plastic melts. I use a scraper. removes material very fast, does not melt the part, no messy chemicals.
Files work great too. I find PLA sands really nicely, but if you're using ABS, PETG, or (god forbid) nylon, you pretty much have to scrape. Seriously, nylon is the absolute worst. Incredible material, but an incredible pain in the ass to work with.
This is fantastic! Most of us probably know the risks of acetone. I didn't when I started. Acetone will melt some types of plastics. Make sure you use one it won't.
When submerged or kept in constant cycling of acetone where it’s not able to evaporate yes acetone will deteriorate many plastics but in this method here it’s really bo different than a primer being applied. The acetone begins gasing out in seconds after contact.
Will be adding this one to the repertoire. Have to test it on TPU. Tho the only thing I have found to work on TPU long term is some flexible type Total Boat resin. Maybe I'll see about thinning that too as it's usually too thick and has to be heavily sanded. The Rustoleum filler primer I have used can crack on TPU after a few months, but is usually ok, but of course requires like 10-15 layers to get to a faux metal shine. Good work!
Newbie to all of this but see this as a good technique. I will have to get an air brush and find a place to buy the Bondo, but thanks for the information.
I am working on an iron man suit mk85. I used resin on the helmet and I lost a lot of detail and it took me over 20hrs. I am really interested in this process and buying all the equipment. I have other pieces that I have not started on yet so I hope to get this going asap and I am glad I saw this. Would love to talk with you about this?
Cool idea. I'm wondering if lacquer also works for thinning the putty. When you're air brushing you are atomizing the putty. You need to be wearing a respirator with cartridges that protect against vapors (think Breaking Bad).
It will but lacquer takes longer to evaporate and displaces oxygen more. I talk more about that in part 2. I know about the mask, I left my respirator at the shop and it was all I had (I know bad example) but knowing how fast acetone evaporates & it was a demo I grabbed what I had. You are entirely right though & respirator should always be worn even with aerosols.
The problem with that is glazing putty doesn’t like to be put on thick, if it is it can crack & seperate. I just was sent a link of a creator who used this technique & my only rebuttal is the the potential brush strokes & un uniformness it may present, it does sand easy so probably not too bad but I like how multiple coats sprayed on gives higher build capability, fast results & uniform application.
I wonder if instead of a airbrush if you used a gravity feed spray paint gun it would be easier to mix up larger quantities and with a lid would evaporate slower.
.2 is gonna be too small, you can try but likely will clog quick. Even .5 it was clogging. A .8-1.0mm is best for this process, bigger the better honestly
@@Darkwingdad thanks I just bought liquitex as bondo can't be delivered same day in spain. Should I invest in resin/uv light or is it the same as liquitex but instead of 15 minute dry time it's 2 min?
@@Red_Rubber_Duck I’m not a resin fan. It’ll fill in detailed areas, you’re fighting gravity. Liquitex is great bc even if you get it in detailed areas you can take a plastic razorblade and scrape or minimize it down. Liquitex is also non toxic, you can reduce liquitex with acetone, lacquer thinner or ipa. Ipa being the safest
LoL you don't recommend doing this in your living room while i'm on my bedroom watching you and peeling of my uncured resin print with bare my hands xD xD xD
For those in the EU that can't get Bondo products, the go to would be Motip instead. Their finishing putty is essentially the same product as Bondo's Glazing Putty. If you can't find that, you should search for a nitrocellulose based 1k putty.
Motip was the reason I made this method! Although it’s available here in the US from certain sellers it carry’s a heavy price tag! Thank you for the tip on the putty, I have alot of subscribers in the UK ask what’s similar, now I know!
@@renefriis-christensen5513 if only I could sell it lol it’s like bondo filler primer, nobody can get it but I have a direct account with 3m and get it by cases for 1/3 of what Amazon sells it for when they have it. Sadly shipping is so much without a commercial account & to make $2 a bottle isn’t worth it
@@Darkwingdad We have some filler primers/spray putty primers available from Motip/Presto/other vendors here overseas too. Don't have an idea how they compare to Bondo's filler primer, but in general I find the nitrocellulose stuff to be the best when working with laquer/non-2k products.
Is this anymore or less effective then building up filler primer? it seemed like the filler primer did more work than the thinned out putty? Hard to tell
The subs titles and part 2 explain more, please watch those. Believe it or not thinners are substantially worse than acetone in small amounts but yes respirator recommended this was just a demo of the application
Chemicals are in everything. Do you use paints & aerosols? Lacquer thinner, acetone & m-acetate are all in fillers primers & paints. With proper ppe (which should be used when painting) there is no difference in toxicity levels than paint you’ve already used. Acetone disintegrates so fast that anything waterbased wouldn’t even come close to the results or dry time unfortunately.
@@Darkwingdad Understand. Thanks. I guess if there was a magic bullet you'd be using it ! I guess I have a sense that Acetone is fairly severe, but you make a good point in that the other products I use are in the same ball park and I'm not using PPE for those, which I guess I should be. I have all that stuff, I just need to get into the habit of using it. Ok, Acetone plus PPE it is. Certainly gives good results.
@@hv1461 trust me, I took criticism for lots of people. Than in the next video I showed it was in literally everything they’ve been using & it was crickets lol
@@hv1461 it’s ok, I don’t really like resin, takes longer than this method & youre fighting gravity. Also once it’s cured it’s permanent, with putty you can reactivate it with acetone & diminish it if need be
That spot putty is basically just Lacquer primer with minimal lacquer thinner. If you can get your hands on some lacquer primer, mix your own thick primer with lacquer thinner. That should be the same thing you are doing here.
You’ve already shown the sand coat which is a base filler instead of a glazing putty. I’d be interested if you’d be willing to print some test pieces for flexing till cracking to see which holds better to the pla.
Will my .35 airbrush needle be large enough? Do I need to sand before using the acetone mix? If weather isn't permitting for rattle can, is it ok to leave the model in the acetone mix for the winter then finish then finish with sanding and rest of the rattle can stuff in the spring?
@@tysoncolley8110 if it’s going to shrink & crack it’s going to happen if it’s painted on with a brush or by hand. When you add acetone you thin it down so you reduce the chance of putting it on too thick. Putty does have a high shrink rate that’s why it shouldn’t be put on thick, it’s not like a buddy filler. It has no hardener per say, it solidifies when the solvents (alcohol,acetone,thinner etc) evaporate. This is why the airbrush method is sad bc your putting on multiple thin layers not just 1 thick one. I’ve been in auto body repair/refurb for 16 years. If you apply pity the proper way it will not crack
Hey I'm about to try a few of your techniques. Can I paint acrylics straight onto the bondo filler or do I need to go over it with an acrylic primer? Also if I only need a little bit of fill, can I skip the sanding stage when I'm happy with the rattle can or acetone mix fill?, I have a model that will be hard to sand and I'm trying to figure out the best approach and I'm hoping I can either use the acetone mix or rattle can bondo and skip any more sanding.
Bondo filler primer you can paint right over no problem. You dont need to sand bondo filler or the acetone putty mix but you do need to add primer over the acetone putty mix
@@Darkwingdad perfect! Thanks so much man. I love your channel and your willingness to help out your subscribers! One last Q for now, there isn't anything about humidity on the bondo spray instructions. Is there a certain humidity that is too high to spray it? It has been 70% and up all week in Ohio.
@@tysoncolley8110 I’m in Florida and I’ve sprayed it in 80% plus. Little tip thigh store it in a cool place or even in the fridge for 5 mins before you use it. And shake it well, it doesn’t like heat but if the can is cool your ok.
Spot putty is water soluable so acetone is overkill. Better way thr one i use put your putty on general area let it half cure for a couple min as soon as it starts to tighten up go over it with a damp sponge and work it into the sanding marks etc. It laus right in and hardens back up
Water will not have the same effect, if anything cause adverse reactions with the pre-existing solvents. Causing flash time & cure time longer, effect rigidness of the putty & make it weaker. Acetone is already in the putty, it’s not overkill to add more. There are several articles from 2011/12 on why this came to be.
Have you tried with IPA instead? I see that it also contains that; I've seen other glaze puttys in my country that don't say they contain acetone in them, but they do have toluene/xylene and isopropil alcohol, so maybe they could be used? (I'd rather avoid Xylene, as vapors are more harmful and it stinks horribly even with a respirator (I use it for gallon bought plastidip)). Also like this I think it could be used with ABS without having it half melt due to the acetone 🤔
Ipa is not a thinning agent it just slows down the evaporation process that’s one reason it’s in nail polish remover. Xylene is what is thinning out the putty in reference to the product you are refering to but it’s far more dangerous to use than acetone. Acetone is not as dangerous as people make it. No disrespect to anyone but most people who make it seem to be this death by vapor solvent don’t really know that much about. Acetone is in tons of products even low grades are found in shop hand cleaners along with other acids. Acetone is even safer than lacquer bc it evaporates at a substantially faster rate. So unfortunately no ipa will not work, but if you want to be more confident in using acetone just do a little research & you’ll see with standard ppe it’s just like using spray paint.
And no there’s no issues using it on ABS. If it holds up with pla it’ll hold up with anything. Again acetone evaporates so quickly it’s not constantly attacking thy e surface of the model.
@@Darkwingdad oh, I'm not worried about acetone, I've printed some abs stuff and fused using slurry; the question was geared more toward non acetone added glazing putties; guess if I want try this technique I'll have to pay a little bit more at autozone (not that it's that expensive, but they sell 4.5oz tubes only)
@@Lusanagi I know 3m has an acrylic putty but it’s like $25 a bottle so cost effectiveness on that is out the window. The bondo putty is the most affordable from what I’ve seen.
No, acetone disintegrates so rapidly you don’t have to worry. If you let the abs soak in a bucket or tub for minutes than yes. There are zero issues with any plastics when used like this
@@Darkwingdad awesome! In the UK the 3M stuff is easier to find and a big tube of 3M is the same price as a small tube of bondo. I’m definitely going to try this at some point.
No different than other aerosols. Lacquer & paint thinner which is in far more products is more dangerous than low amounts of acetone. My part 2 video explains this.
Will try for certain applications. Been spraying with resin, almost no sanding required if you apply thin layers. You don't loose detail with resin if you know what your doing. I would say this application is just as messy and for safety , this bondo glazing putty is just as hazard as resin. It's a cancer causing agent. Great concept should work great in some of my future projects. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the feedback, however sla resin is even more toxic & has carcinogenic properties in liquid form especially when aerated. Sla is far more dangerous to spray than putty keep in mind.
@@Darkwingdad thank you for your response been looking into air brush also as I tired a clear coat on a chrome and it went white Hurd the air brsuh paints don't react badly haven't tried bondo tried all other filler primers or the method of sand paper I use is worng I go 120 to 420 to 1200 to 2000 should I add one or change any?
Someone just mention the ultrasonic cleaner. I am going to check that out. When I did use my airbrush I just used water based paints so clean up was easier. Coming from primarily hvlp I just always ran acetone or the 3m cleaner(basically compressed acetone) through to clean it up. Going to check that stuff out! Thank you!
@@Darkwingdad and no smell and no mess afterwards. I just bought some acetone and gonna try this new method for applying spot putty. Been using tongue depressors (with the edges smoothed down a bit) and a pallet knife but now I can get it smoother from the start.
Really depends on the model, I try to keep as much definition as possible. So I don’t always grab a palm sander unless is a good surface area that won’t get gummed up by a power sander.
A Dremel will generally generate too much local heat and melt the plastic. If you're going to do any power sanding, make sure the area is wet, to dissipate the heat quickly (and then you might be better off using a pneumatic sander, because if any water gets into your Dremel it will release the magic smoke). In fact, it's generally a good idea to keep it wet even for manual sanding, not just to prevent it from melting, but also to contain the dust and improve sanding quality (as the dust mixes with water, it creates a slurry that acts a bit like polishing compound).
@@RFC-3514 not a fan of wetsanding plastic personal. Although your points are valid a model can feel smooth but there can be layer lines still. This is body shop 101, just don’t get over aggressive with your grits, yes you can contain debris but you are reducing the bite of the sand paper (friction generates heat, decreased heat decreased friction-takes longer to finish) and ultimately dragging the process out. Only time to wetsand IMO repairing paint & repairing clear coat.Just my 2 cents though.
@@Darkwingdad - Heat will make the plastic softer, potentially gum up the sandpaper, and interfere with the mechanical material removal. Depends on the type of plastic, of course, but I would never use a Dremel on dry PLA (well, never _again,_ I did try it).
@@RFC-3514 oh I would never use a dremmel either. When I sand it’s 80grit by hand, with a machine it’s rarely below 220 and it’s a simple palm sander with interface pad. Never never oversand and take away from structural integrity of the model, 100% agree
Sandable or filler primer doesn’t have as high of a build capability, it also can take 45-60 minutes before you can sand. I am doing a comparison video soon!
This is badass. I just really need an airbrush and a compressor first things first. What do you think it would set me back to get a setup specifically for this technique if you said you can get away with a non-fancy airbrush?
If you do get a compressor, get one with a tank, though. It's slightly more expensive but gives a much steadier flow. You can get compressor (with tank) + airbrush kits for about $100. Ex., the Fengda (a.k.a. Timbertech) 186K is generally considered good value for money.
Ipa isn’t as good, it also adds hydrocarbons which actually attacks the talc & makes it weaker. Acetone is already in the putty which is why you can add more to reduce the consistency without jeopardizing it’s stability & properties.
@@jimmycrawford2977 I currently use slick sand. I prefer it over feather fill sanding wise, great product just a bit pricey set up wise for diyers I display it in 2 of my videos!
@@Darkwingdad that's our DIY holy grail, an affordable filler/finisher, sandable, high build, that doesn't consume masses of spray cans. I heard people recommend (laminate/wood) floor finisher/protector. It has some of those properties we need, and is highly durable and sandable. But, is it sprayable and cheaper than those "car" solutions, idk.
Nitrile gloves aren't great as protection from acetone. In fact, they'll slowly melt, and any acetone that gets through will take longer to evaporate than if you weren't wearing any gloves at all. *For organic solvents like acetone or methylene chloride, use butyl or neoprene blend gloves.*
Neoprene isn’t that much better than nitrile. Butyl or latex are significantly better. However we are not using acetone in high amounts, it’s being aerated and as we know acetone disinigrates the fastest of any solvent. If you were soaking you’re hands in a vat that’d be one thing. I’ve never had gloves melt or disintegrate & I’ve been using it in autobody products for years. Your info isn’t wrong but you’d have to completely submerge the gloves in it for 4-5 minutes to see them melt. Thank you for input!
@@Darkwingdad - If you check the catalogues of major industrial glove manufacturers (ex., McMaster-Carr) you'll find the most common coating for handling acetone is neoprene. Sometimes on its own, sometimes blended with latex, sometimes with nylon. I'll post a link below, but RUclips generally deletes links. Butyl gloves are even more resistant, but generally also more expensive. I have definitely seen those thin nitrile gloves get sticky and start to melt after being splashed with acetone. Even more so with MC (the fingers start sticking to each other, and when you try to separate them you rip the glove, which loses elasticity and becomes gooey). Also, acetone doesn't exactly "disintegrate", it _evaporates._ And, of the two solvents I mentioned, it actually evaporates the slowest (by about 25%).
@@RFC-3514 I know rubber butyl work the best, problem is they cost more and the shop I worked with for years was cheap lol I had a vet body shop guy who hated using neoprene & I heard so so stories from a few guys who used them. A link would be awesome for those wanting to follow suit with ppe. I do have synthetic butyl gloves I just hate how thick they are(but are made that way for obvious reasons) I’ve personally never had issues using nitrile. Funny thing is I have the butyl gloves for when dealing with acids at my shop I don’t mess around when it comes to that!
@@Darkwingdad - I've tried posting the link multiple times, it always gets eaten by RUclips. 😕 The terms "mcmasters gloves for use with acetone" should work on a well-known search engine (simply mentioning it by name causes the comment to be deleted). I suspect even North-Korean censorship isn't this efficient... 🙄
@@RFC-3514 if you want to email me the link to darkwing_dad850@yahoo.com I’ll be happy to make a post on it. I really appreciate the insight on this & I’m sure others will too!
What if you thinned UV resin and sprayed that? Another option I found in place of Bondo spot putty is MH Ready patch. It is one part like glazing putty, a bit thicker, but dries hard and is white so you don't end up covered in red dust after sanding. I haven't tried thinning it to spray. It worked probably need more thinner in the ratio.
UV resin would be far more dangerous than using putty. Lacquer thinner is more hazardous than acetone and is in TONS of aerosol products. Uv resin on the other hand should NEVER be aerated.
@@bjaurelio the resin is still the dangerous part I was just giving an example bc people think acetone is a death sentence. With uv resin you’d need a tyvek suit, face protector,goggles,respirator etc any of that gets on your skin or membrane you’re in the ER
Not at all, as far as build capability goes this is better, no runs, lost definition of applying coat after coat after coat. Sands in less than 5 minutes not 2-4 hours like cheap rustoleum. Filler primer is great & still needed but the putty does all the hard work in this process. I am making a comparison video on this.
I’m sure that can happen overtime. I’ve been using my current hvlp gun for 2 years and only changed the tip once. Running denaturated alcohol through will help decrease wear & tear. Great question thanks for watching!
I do the same thing with sla resin and I never have to sand the raw print and each coat cures in the sun 5 minutes and wet sand 400-600 and I am ready for base coat
Except it’s far more expensive, dangerous & you lose definition in the print in addition to clean up is awful. Heard a lot more bad than good with that technique.
@@ihatepeople2335 won’t happen, over sanding results in loss definition & loading on primer after primer after primer will leave the model “chunky” & again undefined & rounded off esp on defined models. Puttys are a necessity for a quality prep job.
@@Darkwingdad i recommended in another comment something you might find interesting if you haven’t already used it. I’m going to pick up a tub of Durhams water putty and shoot it through my air brush to see what happens and how it compares to the bondo putty.
What’s the longevity on your airbrush? Many manufacturers advise against solvents, such as alcohol, as thinners due to them corroding internal components. Doesn’t look like a long term solution to me.
You won't get very far using an airbrush without solvents; without solvents, paint is solid. 😉 Normal alcohols shouldn't corrode any internal components of an airbrush, since isopropyl alcohol is the main component of Tamiya paints, and the rubber gaskets are generally made of a material resistant to it. And "airbrush retarder" is mostly butyl alcohol, so I'm sure they avoid any rubber sensitive to that as well. Acetone can be a different matter, though (depending on the material of the gaskets). High-end airbrushes use PTFE (Teflon) seals, that resist pretty much every solvent. The rest is generally steel (or a steel alloy with nickel and copper) which is more likely to be slowly corroded by sweat from your hands than by paint solvents.
@@RFC-3514 thank you again for the input. It’s nice to see others who are educated in this back up what I am stating in addition to adding some key parts I may have missed or neglected to cover. Very much appreciate all the additional info!
What a brilliant idea. This is absolutely going to be something I am going to try!... thank you :)
I have been simply smearing on liquid nails... it makes my prints stronger and Its so cheap. Works great on large areas. Works well if you don't own a spray gun. And is super fast to apply... for example in this video it would be ideal for fixing the eyes. I'd also recommend using Tamiya white primer as it's super thin and gives the best overall smooth finish period.
Its a cool trick. I have done this before with just thinning glazing putty with acetone and brushing it on.
The only thing I would STRONGLY suggest for videos like this is that you should spray outdoors or in a booth that evacuates the fumes. Its not just about particles but inhaling acetone fumes is incredibly hazardous.
You should also recommend a proper respirator and not just a filter mask. A NIOSH approved respirator with 3M 6001 cartridges at a minimum.
Nice videos and channel BTW
yea I already have a part 2 with proper ppe in the works. It is a low amount of acetone which once aerated almost instantaneously evaporates & I did state DONT do this indoors so part 2 I’m trying a bigger gravity receptical & touch more on solvent content & protection. Thank you for your input, you always have great builds and feedback!
@@Darkwingdad Also, just for anyone reading this who doesn't have much experience with painting, *acetone and most other solvents are extremely flammable!* Another reason to do this outside is to avoid creating an explosive atmosphere in an enclosed space. This amount of acetone probably isn't a huge concern unless you're doing this in a very small space, but any time you're atomizing a volatile liquid, you need to be incredibly careful to eliminate any possible ignition sources and prevent the buildup of vapor. You don't want to turn your closet into a thermobaric bomb.
@@a.p.2356 100% but than again it’s like keeping gasoline in a gas can, there’s always a risk, same as an aerosol can or anything that is combustible. I just did a ppe video covering more on this. Acetone along with many other solvents are flammable as you stated. The option I show in the video is safer if your concerned with using an electric compressor. It’s unfortunately a risk with all paints. Nice thing about acetone it’s the simplest ketone & volatile when exposed to UV. So doing it outside is not a bad thing! Thank you for the input!
@@Darkwingdad They make a sprayable body filler. Feather fill is one kind I've used before. It's like primer but thicker. Works really good
@@donaldsnyder6201 I use slick sand, I have 2 videos of it up. It’s definitely a great product. Needs specific ppe & set up that not everyone is accustomed to. You just have to be careful with it bc it can definitely fill in areas that are defined & precise. But it is a great product 100%
This is crazy. I had no idea that you could thin glazing putty into this spray consistency. For a single project, the air brush is good (and that mixture will definitely tube feed with a jar), but with larger projects, I'd have little issue with upsizing to a touch-up gun and dropping the pressure to get more of an HVLP spray, for quick buildup. Also, just keep a lidded plastic container with acetone to store your spray heads, reservoirs, and any metal part (no rubber or plastic) that you want to keep clean - just a quick acetone rinse before using, then back into the acetone storage container when done. Can't wait to try it- thx.
I did a video using a mini hvlp it’s definitely great with less/no refilling
Hey dude, congrats on the Uncle Jessy recommendation of your channel and revisit this technique for post print smoothing! I’m currently working on another proton pack and will definitely be trying this out. :-)
wow, genius idea! Looks amazing
I am excited for any process that can get me from off the bed for ready to paint in only one day so I will definitely be trying this!
It’s a great way to smooth prints! Any questions let me know!
Was watching Uncle Jessy's video and I'm glad he linked to this channel you have great stuff!
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words!
Ohhh man. I gotta try this! Amazing job!
Thanks brother! Will have a part 2 with some airbrushes & talk more about the process & alternatives! Thanks for the support!
Check out
Barbatos Rex's video on an awesome airbrush that could be perfect for this application. He uses it for primers but this is fairly similar. The video title starts with "Testing Hobby Mio's $28 Spray System Airbrush" Trust me on this one guys!!!
@@GodFist66 I just ordered a mini hvlp style airbrushing, trying it out tomorrow with footage to follow
@@Darkwingdad just looked that up, looks killer!
@@GodFist66 the one I ordered is battery powered 32 psi, we’ll see how it works & holds up!
DW changing the game! Brilliant tutorial. I just got my airbrush section of my lab set up but i haven't tried airbrushing anything yet.
It’s not hard man! If you need help just give me a shout!
High end quality like always! Thanks for sharing.
Great idea. I’m not in to painting my prints, yet, but I’m heading that way.
Great video Darkwing! Appreciate the effort and time you put into the production! Thank you!
Thanks for watching & the kind words!
This looks promising. I didn't think it could be used in this way.
IT’s pretty awesome!
Constructive feedback here you tend to repeat yourself a fair bit more than most youtubers I would suggest being more vigilant of how often you say certain things because it really eats video time when you spend 2-3 minutes talking about how fast the dry times are. Other than that I absolutely salute you for sharing this method thank you! 😊
Just trying to reiterate facts for people, I am trying to keep the videos shorter & that’ll definitely help! Thank you for the feedback, I talk too much lol I appreciate the watch & constructive criticism!
@@Darkwingdad honestly it helped me out you repeating it, me being ADHD AF and all
@@kylejahnke9095same here, got adhd and autism. It helped me too
As someone that has been designing and delivering information professionally to huge audiences for decades, important facts should always be repeated multiple times. As 50% of normal people miss things or forget instantly, and then you have viewers with special needs. I think your delivery was top-tier professional.
Great video. I've applied this method with an acid brush, but this is much better since it sprays so evenly. Great idea! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks buddy!
I did not know about spot putty until now I would always spray thick with primer filler and sand it down and it somehow works but I will definitely give this a try.
This will be way quicker,better quality & help retain definition in your print, you’ll love it!
how nice... you have the space...
Awesome idea 👍
Thanks!
I love Bondo glazing putty for it's dry/dusty nature when you sand it. I use it in combination with a rapid build primer to turn resin prints into mould masters. I've tried several other products that were a bit "gummy" which makes it impossible to get a nice finish. I never thought of thinnning it and spraying though, great tip!
Thank you!
Thanks for the recommend, Hackaday!
Did you write that article on the webpage?
huh, this is a pretty rad idea!
Thanks!
You should get one of those mini pop up tents to spray in.
In part 2 & the comparison test I use it. This was an on the fly demo I cover more in part 2
Going to try this over the weekend .
I think this is not only going to help a ton of people but get pretty popular pretty quick!
Acetone is an organic vapor, best to use a cartridge respirator if you are going to be doing a lot of this. The filter mask just keeps out the spray solids .
Correct,definitely want a respirator, this was just a quick demo
Amazing idea! Can't wait to try it out.
Thank you!
Great tip. Loved it. Thanks.
Thank you!!
Man, where was this when I was working on my war machine suit??? Great concept I can’t wait to use it on my next project.
Let me know if you have questions & how it works!
This is a kick ass method! Doing this also keeps sharp edge details intact and doesn't round off stuff... I might try this out with my tube of green spot putty by 3M
It should work just fine, I know the 3M acrylgreen is more expensive so that’s the only reason I didn’t use it but you’re exactly right in your statement & along with 5 min or less sanding time & easy sanding it’s a killer way to clean up prints! Thanks for the feedback!
@@Darkwingdad I'm currently working on engineered parts for urethane casting and now I feel like going back to and trying this on some of the parts that are messed up
@@Darkwingdad now, do you have issues doing this with parts that require a tight fit tolerance?
@@KRGraphicsCG not with this method. I have al alternative method spraying a polyester body filler that is thicker. But I’ve had luck scaling things down .25% and after the filler they fit excellent
@@Darkwingdad sweet. Time to break out the old airbrush and acetone.
I don't have a what you should or should not do just great work thanks.
Exactly!
Awesome thanks
Thank you!
Ah, it seems my comment in support of this technique was removed when the person I replied to deleted their comment. I won't rewrite it all since it was quite wordy, but so that it's on the record, I applaud your ingenuity and this seems like a really useful technique for someone like me who goes through a LOT of filler primer (applying spot putty by hand is annoying IMO). Nice work!
Yea funny how that works, you drop some facts & people delete stuff lol I appreciate your input & thanks for watching.
Man, I was about to go do all the thin glazing manually when I saw you did this with an airbrush and I just got one I about lost it 😂
If you have any more tips on this process after about a year I'd love to hear it.
Great video 👍
i had to run all over town for a week to find bondo spot putty. Someone had said to mix it with water and that turned out to be the dumbest thing I've tried. Pretty happy with the putty even without owning an air brush
Bondo putty will not thin with water you need acetone to thin it. It really is an awesome piece to have in your arsenal!
Very innovative. Love it .
Thanks man!
@@Darkwingdad your work is awesome I'm hitting my brother up to show him . Thank you .
@@davidz2016 thank you so much! Really trying to differentiate the channel & show people practical methods & results that work & what to avoid! Comments like these let me know I’m doing it right!
Because acetone and Bondo aren't toxic to breath lol. Interesting technique. What about using thick primer? Would this not give similar or the same results?
Acetone is in every rattle can you’ve ever used, not much different as far as safety & ppe goes. Sla resin can cause chemicals burns, blistering, blindness & more. Much more ppe required. This method is no different than simply painting. You can use a sprayable filler but it’s pricier & even more toxic than using just acetone/putty. Filler primer which are in aerosols do not fill anywhere as much or dry as fast as this method I have a comparison video on the 2, it’s not even close.
Sometimes removing some of the material gives the best results. If you do not want some angles to be rounded out for example.
Sanding is a pain however because the plastic melts.
I use a scraper. removes material very fast, does not melt the part, no messy chemicals.
Files work great too. I find PLA sands really nicely, but if you're using ABS, PETG, or (god forbid) nylon, you pretty much have to scrape.
Seriously, nylon is the absolute worst. Incredible material, but an incredible pain in the ass to work with.
Love this process. Was always sceptical about the resin smoothing. Gotta try this out.
You’ll love it, soo much faster and twice as effective!
how do the airbrush seals cope with the acetone? very nice video.
Haven’t had a problem yet, cleaning with denaturated alcohol after use and they are still kicking!
This is fantastic! Most of us probably know the risks of acetone. I didn't when I started. Acetone will melt some types of plastics. Make sure you use one it won't.
When submerged or kept in constant cycling of acetone where it’s not able to evaporate yes acetone will deteriorate many plastics but in this method here it’s really bo different than a primer being applied. The acetone begins gasing out in seconds after contact.
@@Darkwingdad Thank you so much. I have never really looked into the why's or how's, just know my plastic basket dissolved a bit. LOL
Will be adding this one to the repertoire. Have to test it on TPU. Tho the only thing I have found to work on TPU long term is some flexible type Total Boat resin. Maybe I'll see about thinning that too as it's usually too thick and has to be heavily sanded. The Rustoleum filler primer I have used can crack on TPU after a few months, but is usually ok, but of course requires like 10-15 layers to get to a faux metal shine. Good work!
I feel dolphin glaze would be better as it’s flexible but I’ve never tested it on tpu
Great tip 👍
Thanks brother! Appreciate you watching!
Found you through @uncle Jesse who gave you credit for this cool idea fir his video testing out your idea. Glad to grave found your channel.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad to have you here!
Have you tried PlaidFX primer it says that is design for 3D printed parts. It is water based and it supposed to fill some imperfections.
No but that sounds like a typical filler primer.
Newbie to all of this but see this as a good technique. I will have to get an air brush and find a place to buy the Bondo, but thanks for the information.
Thanks for the feedback Brian! Welcome aboard!
This was awesome. I’ve been wanting to make a MegaMan helmet for my kindergartner - can’t wait to put your tips into practice!
Thank you Danny!
Excellent! You know I’m already a huge fan of the Bondo filler putty and primer so this is a no-brainer… Great work my man!
Thanks brother, got part 2 on this coming up soon!
Nice work
Thanks!
Hay neighbor! I am In niceville.
Hey!! What’s up my man! Thanks for dropping by! Are you on fb or insta?
I am working on an iron man suit mk85. I used resin on the helmet and I lost a lot of detail and it took me over 20hrs. I am really interested in this process and buying all the equipment. I have other pieces that I have not started on yet so I hope to get this going asap and I am glad I saw this. Would love to talk with you about this?
Of course! Are you on Facebook?
Sorry I sent this a couple days ago but it was gone when I checked ked up on it. My bad I guess.
facebook.com/brian.pinkney.50
Just by looking at your airbrush that has to be siphon fed since it's below the nozzle. Really cool technique though
Cool idea. I'm wondering if lacquer also works for thinning the putty.
When you're air brushing you are atomizing the putty. You need to be wearing a respirator with cartridges that protect against vapors (think Breaking Bad).
It will but lacquer takes longer to evaporate and displaces oxygen more. I talk more about that in part 2. I know about the mask, I left my respirator at the shop and it was all I had (I know bad example) but knowing how fast acetone evaporates & it was a demo I grabbed what I had. You are entirely right though & respirator should always be worn even with aerosols.
@@Darkwingdad - The issue isn't the acetone, it's the stuff in Bondo. Acetone stinks and can cause nausea but has no long-term toxicity.
If you didn't have a air brush (having up for one!) What would the ratio be if you ad to apply via paint brush?
2:1 you want it a tad thicker. I have a new video up on a product that is amazing to brush on
ruclips.net/video/C8GhSEjiUgw/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Boss ☝️😎
Who me??? Lol
Great idea. For those of us who are not handy with an airbrush, do you think you could get decent results brushing the mixture on instead of spraying?
The problem with that is glazing putty doesn’t like to be put on thick, if it is it can crack & seperate. I just was sent a link of a creator who used this technique & my only rebuttal is the the potential brush strokes & un uniformness it may present, it does sand easy so probably not too bad but I like how multiple coats sprayed on gives higher build capability, fast results & uniform application.
I wonder if instead of a airbrush if you used a gravity feed spray paint gun it would be easier to mix up larger quantities and with a lid would evaporate slower.
So they do make a sprayable filler you can do that with an hvlp gun but you could 100% do that with the acetone & putty too.
I only have a .2 needle, can i just keep the rear chuck open or completly remove the needle?
.2 is gonna be too small, you can try but likely will clog quick. Even .5 it was clogging. A .8-1.0mm is best for this process, bigger the better honestly
@@Darkwingdad thanks I just bought liquitex as bondo can't be delivered same day in spain.
Should I invest in resin/uv light or is it the same as liquitex but instead of 15 minute dry time it's 2 min?
@@Red_Rubber_Duck I’m not a resin fan. It’ll fill in detailed areas, you’re fighting gravity. Liquitex is great bc even if you get it in detailed areas you can take a plastic razorblade and scrape or minimize it down. Liquitex is also non toxic, you can reduce liquitex with acetone, lacquer thinner or ipa. Ipa being the safest
LoL you don't recommend doing this in your living room while i'm on my bedroom watching you and peeling of my uncured resin print with bare my hands xD xD xD
That’ll put hair on your chest lol
For those in the EU that can't get Bondo products, the go to would be Motip instead. Their finishing putty is essentially the same product as Bondo's Glazing Putty. If you can't find that, you should search for a nitrocellulose based 1k putty.
Motip was the reason I made this method! Although it’s available here in the US from certain sellers it carry’s a heavy price tag! Thank you for the tip on the putty, I have alot of subscribers in the UK ask what’s similar, now I know!
@@Darkwingdad No problem. I Googled long and hard to find out what was similar to the US Bondo Glazing Putty. Now you can reap the rewards. 🤣
@@renefriis-christensen5513 if only I could sell it lol it’s like bondo filler primer, nobody can get it but I have a direct account with 3m and get it by cases for 1/3 of what Amazon sells it for when they have it. Sadly shipping is so much without a commercial account & to make $2 a bottle isn’t worth it
@@Darkwingdad We have some filler primers/spray putty primers available from Motip/Presto/other vendors here overseas too. Don't have an idea how they compare to Bondo's filler primer, but in general I find the nitrocellulose stuff to be the best when working with laquer/non-2k products.
I'm also based in the EU, what's the name of the product?
And do you think it can be sprayed like this?
Is this anymore or less effective then building up filler primer? it seemed like the filler primer did more work than the thinned out putty? Hard to tell
The putty offers more of a high build than the primer, its also ready to sand substantially quicker. A comparison video is already being made!
Single action airbrush?
Single or dual will work
Was wondering if the same process could be done with wood filler?
Do not use wood filler at all. Waterbased products shouldn’t be used on plastics or with solvent enriched paints. Your just asking for problems.
Should probably use a respirator or spray outdoors as others have said. Acetone ain't nothing to breathe in.
The subs titles and part 2 explain more, please watch those. Believe it or not thinners are substantially worse than acetone in small amounts but yes respirator recommended this was just a demo of the application
Does this not damage the airbrush?
So far I haven’t had issues. I’ve used hvlp guns for years and clean them with acetone. Knock on wood 4 years and no blown o-rings or anything.
Nicely done. Is there any alternative that doesn't use Acetone ? Just to stay away from toxic chemicals, a system is water based with low fumes ?
Chemicals are in everything. Do you use paints & aerosols? Lacquer thinner, acetone & m-acetate are all in fillers primers & paints. With proper ppe (which should be used when painting) there is no difference in toxicity levels than paint you’ve already used. Acetone disintegrates so fast that anything waterbased wouldn’t even come close to the results or dry time unfortunately.
@@Darkwingdad Understand. Thanks. I guess if there was a magic bullet you'd be using it ! I guess I have a sense that Acetone is fairly severe, but you make a good point in that the other products I use are in the same ball park and I'm not using PPE for those, which I guess I should be. I have all that stuff, I just need to get into the habit of using it. Ok, Acetone plus PPE it is. Certainly gives good results.
@@Darkwingdad Do you have any experience with 3D Print coating products like XTC-3D ? Any opinion ?
@@hv1461 trust me, I took criticism for lots of people. Than in the next video I showed it was in literally everything they’ve been using & it was crickets lol
@@hv1461 it’s ok, I don’t really like resin, takes longer than this method & youre fighting gravity. Also once it’s cured it’s permanent, with putty you can reactivate it with acetone & diminish it if need be
how many coats did you do on this mask?
I coat of putty
2 coats of filler primer
I wonder if you could add ink to it. That way you combine fillers and base coats
You could, you’d have to have a very accurate psi and dilution ratio. This stuff sprays on “chalky”
That spot putty is basically just Lacquer primer with minimal lacquer thinner. If you can get your hands on some lacquer primer, mix your own thick primer with lacquer thinner. That should be the same thing you are doing here.
I was looking at the sds of bondo trying to make my own, I’ll have to look into that. Thanks for the tip!
what size nozzle are you using here?
.8
You’ve already shown the sand coat which is a base filler instead of a glazing putty. I’d be interested if you’d be willing to print some test pieces for flexing till cracking to see which holds better to the pla.
Something I can work on! Thanks for the idea, just gotta find some scrap pieces!
Will my .35 airbrush needle be large enough? Do I need to sand before using the acetone mix? If weather isn't permitting for rattle can, is it ok to leave the model in the acetone mix for the winter then finish then finish with sanding and rest of the rattle can stuff in the spring?
.35 is too small, it will clog
You can leave the putty mix on the model, once dried time isn’t a factor when you sand it
@@Darkwingdad thanks. I'm seeing some people saying that bondo/acetone will shrink then crack over time. Is this a real concern?
@@tysoncolley8110 if it’s going to shrink & crack it’s going to happen if it’s painted on with a brush or by hand. When you add acetone you thin it down so you reduce the chance of putting it on too thick. Putty does have a high shrink rate that’s why it shouldn’t be put on thick, it’s not like a buddy filler. It has no hardener per say, it solidifies when the solvents (alcohol,acetone,thinner etc) evaporate. This is why the airbrush method is sad bc your putting on multiple thin layers not just 1 thick one. I’ve been in auto body repair/refurb for 16 years. If you apply pity the proper way it will not crack
@@Darkwingdad is .5 needle sufficient? If not what's the minimum?
Hey I'm about to try a few of your techniques. Can I paint acrylics straight onto the bondo filler or do I need to go over it with an acrylic primer? Also if I only need a little bit of fill, can I skip the sanding stage when I'm happy with the rattle can or acetone mix fill?, I have a model that will be hard to sand and I'm trying to figure out the best approach and I'm hoping I can either use the acetone mix or rattle can bondo and skip any more sanding.
Bondo filler primer you can paint right over no problem. You dont need to sand bondo filler or the acetone putty mix but you do need to add primer over the acetone putty mix
@@Darkwingdad perfect! Thanks so much man. I love your channel and your willingness to help out your subscribers! One last Q for now, there isn't anything about humidity on the bondo spray instructions. Is there a certain humidity that is too high to spray it? It has been 70% and up all week in Ohio.
@@Darkwingdad is acrylic primer good for going straight over the acetone mix?
@@tysoncolley8110 I’m in Florida and I’ve sprayed it in 80% plus. Little tip thigh store it in a cool place or even in the fridge for 5 mins before you use it. And shake it well, it doesn’t like heat but if the can is cool your ok.
@@tysoncolley8110 yes acrylics are great for raw materials & a great sealer to prevent color bleeding
Spot putty is water soluable so acetone is overkill. Better way thr one i use put your putty on general area let it half cure for a couple min as soon as it starts to tighten up go over it with a damp sponge and work it into the sanding marks etc. It laus right in and hardens back up
Water will not have the same effect, if anything cause adverse reactions with the pre-existing solvents. Causing flash time & cure time longer, effect rigidness of the putty & make it weaker. Acetone is already in the putty, it’s not overkill to add more. There are several articles from 2011/12 on why this came to be.
Have you tried with IPA instead? I see that it also contains that; I've seen other glaze puttys in my country that don't say they contain acetone in them, but they do have toluene/xylene and isopropil alcohol, so maybe they could be used? (I'd rather avoid Xylene, as vapors are more harmful and it stinks horribly even with a respirator (I use it for gallon bought plastidip)).
Also like this I think it could be used with ABS without having it half melt due to the acetone 🤔
Ipa is not a thinning agent it just slows down the evaporation process that’s one reason it’s in nail polish remover. Xylene is what is thinning out the putty in reference to the product you are refering to but it’s far more dangerous to use than acetone. Acetone is not as dangerous as people make it. No disrespect to anyone but most people who make it seem to be this death by vapor solvent don’t really know that much about. Acetone is in tons of products even low grades are found in shop hand cleaners along with other acids. Acetone is even safer than lacquer bc it evaporates at a substantially faster rate. So unfortunately no ipa will not work, but if you want to be more confident in using acetone just do a little research & you’ll see with standard ppe it’s just like using spray paint.
And no there’s no issues using it on ABS. If it holds up with pla it’ll hold up with anything. Again acetone evaporates so quickly it’s not constantly attacking thy e surface of the model.
@@Darkwingdad oh, I'm not worried about acetone, I've printed some abs stuff and fused using slurry; the question was geared more toward non acetone added glazing putties; guess if I want try this technique I'll have to pay a little bit more at autozone (not that it's that expensive, but they sell 4.5oz tubes only)
@@Lusanagi I know 3m has an acrylic putty but it’s like $25 a bottle so cost effectiveness on that is out the window. The bondo putty is the most affordable from what I’ve seen.
Haha, ok, now my comment on another of your videos is obsilete, same technique ;-)
Lol I did see your comment the 3m green putty is great!
Will it melt abs?
No, acetone disintegrates so rapidly you don’t have to worry. If you let the abs soak in a bucket or tub for minutes than yes. There are zero issues with any plastics when used like this
It would definitely be worth it if you make a whole build and take a day to spray all your pieces
Absolutely! You could knock it out in a day!
Will this work with 3M acryl putty rather than bondo?
Yes, you may have to play with dilution ratios but it’ll work. Only reason I didn’t do a video with it is cost of the product vs the bondo putty.
@@Darkwingdad awesome! In the UK the 3M stuff is easier to find and a big tube of 3M is the same price as a small tube of bondo. I’m definitely going to try this at some point.
@@fullstoplx5574how did your testing go?
How caustic are these products to our skin? Are they safe to be around eyes, noses, and mouths.
No different than other aerosols. Lacquer & paint thinner which is in far more products is more dangerous than low amounts of acetone. My part 2 video explains this.
ty
Will try for certain applications. Been spraying with resin, almost no sanding required if you apply thin layers. You don't loose detail with resin if you know what your doing. I would say this application is just as messy and for safety , this bondo glazing putty is just as hazard as resin. It's a cancer causing agent. Great concept should work great in some of my future projects. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the feedback, however sla resin is even more toxic & has carcinogenic properties in liquid form especially when aerated. Sla is far more dangerous to spray than putty keep in mind.
Where do you get the bondo filler primer im in the uk
Look up SEM it’s basically the same thing or see if you can get upol
@@Darkwingdad thank you for your response been looking into air brush also as I tired a clear coat on a chrome and it went white Hurd the air brsuh paints don't react badly haven't tried bondo tried all other filler primers or the method of sand paper I use is worng I go 120 to 420 to 1200 to 2000 should I add one or change any?
I also used a high build filler primer is that to much?
@@1937Brett not at all, filler or putty first followed by filler primer your hood to go
I'm surprised you don't have one of those ultrasonic cleaners and simple green... Should shake that spot putty right off
Someone just mention the ultrasonic cleaner. I am going to check that out. When I did use my airbrush I just used water based paints so clean up was easier. Coming from primarily hvlp I just always ran acetone or the 3m cleaner(basically compressed acetone) through to clean it up. Going to check that stuff out! Thank you!
@@Darkwingdad and no smell and no mess afterwards. I just bought some acetone and gonna try this new method for applying spot putty. Been using tongue depressors (with the edges smoothed down a bit) and a pallet knife but now I can get it smoother from the start.
@@KRGraphicsCG very informative for those using this method, I’m definitely going to try it!
@@Darkwingdad just DON'T put acetone in the ultrasonic cleaner!
Came out sweet. Other than fillers etc, do you sand with a dremel or hand sand usually??
Really depends on the model, I try to keep as much definition as possible. So I don’t always grab a palm sander unless is a good surface area that won’t get gummed up by a power sander.
A Dremel will generally generate too much local heat and melt the plastic. If you're going to do any power sanding, make sure the area is wet, to dissipate the heat quickly (and then you might be better off using a pneumatic sander, because if any water gets into your Dremel it will release the magic smoke).
In fact, it's generally a good idea to keep it wet even for manual sanding, not just to prevent it from melting, but also to contain the dust and improve sanding quality (as the dust mixes with water, it creates a slurry that acts a bit like polishing compound).
@@RFC-3514 not a fan of wetsanding plastic personal. Although your points are valid a model can feel smooth but there can be layer lines still. This is body shop 101, just don’t get over aggressive with your grits, yes you can contain debris but you are reducing the bite of the sand paper (friction generates heat, decreased heat decreased friction-takes longer to finish) and ultimately dragging the process out. Only time to wetsand IMO repairing paint & repairing clear coat.Just my 2 cents though.
@@Darkwingdad - Heat will make the plastic softer, potentially gum up the sandpaper, and interfere with the mechanical material removal.
Depends on the type of plastic, of course, but I would never use a Dremel on dry PLA (well, never _again,_ I did try it).
@@RFC-3514 oh I would never use a dremmel either. When I sand it’s 80grit by hand, with a machine it’s rarely below 220 and it’s a simple palm sander with interface pad. Never never oversand and take away from structural integrity of the model, 100% agree
thoughts on the sculpto 3d filament printer to start?
I have not used that brand yet
How is this different from a spray can spendable primer?
Sandable or filler primer doesn’t have as high of a build capability, it also can take 45-60 minutes before you can sand. I am doing a comparison video soon!
This is badass. I just really need an airbrush and a compressor first things first. What do you think it would set me back to get a setup specifically for this technique if you said you can get away with a non-fancy airbrush?
Small compressor $50 airbrush from harbor freight $30
Here’s a compressor $60
amzn.to/39iwvqp
Here’s a airbrush kit with bigger reservoir
amzn.to/3kq20Ba $40
If you do get a compressor, get one with a tank, though. It's slightly more expensive but gives a much steadier flow.
You can get compressor (with tank) + airbrush kits for about $100. Ex., the Fengda (a.k.a. Timbertech) 186K is generally considered good value for money.
Hey man, does ISO work? I don't own Acetone and would rather not buy it if I don't need to
Ipa isn’t as good, it also adds hydrocarbons which actually attacks the talc & makes it weaker. Acetone is already in the putty which is why you can add more to reduce the consistency without jeopardizing it’s stability & properties.
@@Darkwingdad well..damn, ok I'll get some
What is glazing putty please? Im from Europe... thanks
What part exactly? I’ll try tonging a substitute
Great idea again! I wonder if there is a readily mixed product like you could use in hvlp, with these properties.
There is slick sand but that’s a filler. You can 100% spray this in an hvlp and I guarantee you can throw some primer in. Hmmm part 2 you think? Lol
Look into featherfill g2, it’s basically the professional version of this technique!
@@jimmycrawford2977 I currently use slick sand. I prefer it over feather fill sanding wise, great product just a bit pricey set up wise for diyers I display it in 2 of my videos!
@@Darkwingdad that's our DIY holy grail, an affordable filler/finisher, sandable, high build, that doesn't consume masses of spray cans.
I heard people recommend (laminate/wood) floor finisher/protector. It has some of those properties we need, and is highly durable and sandable. But, is it sprayable and cheaper than those "car" solutions, idk.
@@DeKamme yea I’m not sure on the floor finisher, how much is needed, dry time, cure time etc
Nitrile gloves aren't great as protection from acetone. In fact, they'll slowly melt, and any acetone that gets through will take longer to evaporate than if you weren't wearing any gloves at all.
*For organic solvents like acetone or methylene chloride, use butyl or neoprene blend gloves.*
Neoprene isn’t that much better than nitrile. Butyl or latex are significantly better. However we are not using acetone in high amounts, it’s being aerated and as we know acetone disinigrates the fastest of any solvent. If you were soaking you’re hands in a vat that’d be one thing. I’ve never had gloves melt or disintegrate & I’ve been using it in autobody products for years. Your info isn’t wrong but you’d have to completely submerge the gloves in it for 4-5 minutes to see them melt. Thank you for input!
@@Darkwingdad - If you check the catalogues of major industrial glove manufacturers (ex., McMaster-Carr) you'll find the most common coating for handling acetone is neoprene. Sometimes on its own, sometimes blended with latex, sometimes with nylon.
I'll post a link below, but RUclips generally deletes links.
Butyl gloves are even more resistant, but generally also more expensive.
I have definitely seen those thin nitrile gloves get sticky and start to melt after being splashed with acetone. Even more so with MC (the fingers start sticking to each other, and when you try to separate them you rip the glove, which loses elasticity and becomes gooey).
Also, acetone doesn't exactly "disintegrate", it _evaporates._ And, of the two solvents I mentioned, it actually evaporates the slowest (by about 25%).
@@RFC-3514 I know rubber butyl work the best, problem is they cost more and the shop I worked with for years was cheap lol I had a vet body shop guy who hated using neoprene & I heard so so stories from a few guys who used them. A link would be awesome for those wanting to follow suit with ppe. I do have synthetic butyl gloves I just hate how thick they are(but are made that way for obvious reasons) I’ve personally never had issues using nitrile. Funny thing is I have the butyl gloves for when dealing with acids at my shop I don’t mess around when it comes to that!
@@Darkwingdad - I've tried posting the link multiple times, it always gets eaten by RUclips. 😕
The terms "mcmasters gloves for use with acetone" should work on a well-known search engine (simply mentioning it by name causes the comment to be deleted). I suspect even North-Korean censorship isn't this efficient... 🙄
@@RFC-3514 if you want to email me the link to darkwing_dad850@yahoo.com I’ll be happy to make a post on it. I really appreciate the insight on this & I’m sure others will too!
What if you thinned UV resin and sprayed that?
Another option I found in place of Bondo spot putty is MH Ready patch. It is one part like glazing putty, a bit thicker, but dries hard and is white so you don't end up covered in red dust after sanding. I haven't tried thinning it to spray. It worked probably need more thinner in the ratio.
UV resin would be far more dangerous than using putty. Lacquer thinner is more hazardous than acetone and is in TONS of aerosol products. Uv resin on the other hand should NEVER be aerated.
@@Darkwingdad thanks for the reply. What I saw used isopropyl alcohol to thin the resin, not lacquer thinner.
@@bjaurelio the resin is still the dangerous part I was just giving an example bc people think acetone is a death sentence. With uv resin you’d need a tyvek suit, face protector,goggles,respirator etc any of that gets on your skin or membrane you’re in the ER
How does this compare to spray filler primer? Seems like it's kinda the same.
Not at all, as far as build capability goes this is better, no runs, lost definition of applying coat after coat after coat. Sands in less than 5 minutes not 2-4 hours like cheap rustoleum. Filler primer is great & still needed but the putty does all the hard work in this process. I am making a comparison video on this.
@@Darkwingdad cool. I'll give it a try. I have a couple of those disposable co2 paint sprayers so I don't have to mess up my airbrush. Thanks.
Saw the comment about using another airbrush to not jack up my $200 one. Do you think a cheapie Amazon would suffice ??
amzn.to/3kq20Ba this one is $43 and has a bigger reservoir I just bought it to test out
Great technique but isn't there a huge risk that the aceton will be too agressive for the o-ring / sealings of the airbrush?! 🤔
I’m sure that can happen overtime. I’ve been using my current hvlp gun for 2 years and only changed the tip once. Running denaturated alcohol through will help decrease wear & tear. Great question thanks for watching!
Thanks alot and especially for responding 😀 I enjoy your vids alot
I have the same concern. I haven't looked into how long it takes acetone to wear down o rings, but I know it will eventually happen.
I do the same thing with sla resin and I never have to sand the raw print and each coat cures in the sun 5 minutes and wet sand 400-600 and I am ready for base coat
Except it’s far more expensive, dangerous & you lose definition in the print in addition to clean up is awful. Heard a lot more bad than good with that technique.
Im really interested to see maybe 20 coats with zero initial sanding to the print. Just straight from the bed to spraying putty.
Lol I don’t think you’d need 20 coats, it’d be looking like big chungus with all that bondo haha
Lol dude I just really want to figure out a way to get a perfection with only needing to sand the primer and call it a day. :(
@@ihatepeople2335 won’t happen, over sanding results in loss definition & loading on primer after primer after primer will leave the model “chunky” & again undefined & rounded off esp on defined models. Puttys are a necessity for a quality prep job.
@@Darkwingdad i recommended in another comment something you might find interesting if you haven’t already used it. I’m going to pick up a tub of Durhams water putty and shoot it through my air brush to see what happens and how it compares to the bondo putty.
@@ihatepeople2335 I’ve never used it, I would just make sure it will adhere to pla. Sounds interesting, let me know how it works!
What’s the longevity on your airbrush? Many manufacturers advise against solvents, such as alcohol, as thinners due to them corroding internal components. Doesn’t look like a long term solution to me.
If your airbrush is stainless steel it’s no different than using an hvlp. I run dinaturated alcohol through mine when finished
You won't get very far using an airbrush without solvents; without solvents, paint is solid. 😉
Normal alcohols shouldn't corrode any internal components of an airbrush, since isopropyl alcohol is the main component of Tamiya paints, and the rubber gaskets are generally made of a material resistant to it. And "airbrush retarder" is mostly butyl alcohol, so I'm sure they avoid any rubber sensitive to that as well.
Acetone can be a different matter, though (depending on the material of the gaskets). High-end airbrushes use PTFE (Teflon) seals, that resist pretty much every solvent.
The rest is generally steel (or a steel alloy with nickel and copper) which is more likely to be slowly corroded by sweat from your hands than by paint solvents.
@@RFC-3514 thank you again for the input. It’s nice to see others who are educated in this back up what I am stating in addition to adding some key parts I may have missed or neglected to cover. Very much appreciate all the additional info!
Have you ever tried airbrushing resin?
Absolutely not. By far the most dangerous thing you could do & you need much more ppe.
Big part is easy to smooth but small is hard
I’ve got other videos that show that, check em out!
can you just brush it on still? if you don't have a sprayer
Yes you can, part 2 is in the works where I compare them with pros & cons