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Smooth pla 3d prints by shaving them. Don't sand your pla, shave it.
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- New video: How to make custom scrapers! • Smooth 3D Prints: Don'... Spending time sanding 3d prints is a thing of the past. Reduce your time prepping prints for paint or just prepping them by using card (or cabinet) scrapers! These little guys can quarter your time prepping 3d prints. Period.
00:00 Introduction
00:55 Card scrapers
01:47 The downside of traditional card scrapers
02:12 Shaving vs sanding time
02:53 Mini card scrapers
03:28 How to sharpen card scrapers
05:31 Flux capacitor
06:48 Custom shape card scrapers
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How to sharpen a scraper: www.stewmac.co...
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this is so much work for a poor finish. hit the surface of your print with a heaat gun just enough to heat the outside. rub it down with a somewhat rough cloth while hot then sand. this method looks like shit and removes material
Well thank you for the productive comment. I am sure everyone here agrees with you and your insightful tip.
@@DreadMakerRoberts this tip if from someone who used to have to finish 3d printed prototypes daily. I used to sell high end vapes, many of them printed in everything from pla to alumide. This method works especially well with carbon nylon which marks up easily. You're basically just melting down and smoothing a surface layer. My delivery is poor but my information is sound.
Ok this I’ll listen to. Yes the delivery is poor. But I am open to ideas. How many walls thick is best for this with which plastics?
@@DreadMakerRoberts I know nothing about printing outside of material properties, only finishing. I also have a background in automotive finishing. You're basically trying to flash heat the surface. I don't remember exactly what kinds of cloth we used but you just kinda rub it smooth. Even sanding would be easier from there. I have also brushed epoxy onto prints as filler and sanded it smooth. filling the gaps is easier than trying to level the print surface itself
I would think the type of cloth used would be critical. Any idea what it was? I am finding it difficult to find a cloth that does not stick to the plastic. I've tried cotton, polyester, and microfiber with little luck. I have been experimenting with this technique, and so far, any print that is less than 4 walls thick deforms under heat. My process involves trying to smooth the surface by lightly hitting it with heat, wiping it, and if no smoothing occurs, heating it again to increase the temperature until I achieve some smoothing. At the point I get some smoothing, if the walls are not at least 4-5 layers thick, they start to deform and cave into the infill pattern. Were the prints you have done 100% infill? That would explain how this method would work well, but it would not be a solution for those of us who do not use 100% infill.
Anyhow, what I'm trying to convey is that this technique might work well for you, but since very few people print with 5 layers thick and use nylon, it would not work for them. This issue could also be related to PLA. You mentioned using Nylon, which is rarely used by hobbyists, and since they make up the vast majority of my audience, I cater to their needs. This leads to the question of whether I am not doing it correctly or lacking the appropriate skills. However, considering I have been using 3D printing to build props and special effects for shows like Star Trek, GhostBusters, and Predator for many years, I like to think that I have a good handle on these things and can generally accomplish them.
I'm not saying that I have tried and failed or that your method is not valid. I'm simply saying that I (and possibly others) need more information to test it properly.
I've had a resin printer for a while now and recently took the plunge and bought a filament printer to try. A big turn off was the amount of sanding required, I think you just s(h)aved my life! Thanks a lot Ben :)
Lol great dad pun!
@@DreadMakerRoberts I couldn't help myself :)
You are my people my friend 🤣
Isn't it a huge hassle with resin to clean it and to have to use protective gear and such? I'd rather sit and sandfile things than risk damage to my hands or furnitures imho. Don't have any printers as of yet but thinking of going with filament.
@@MertBert nope dont believe all you hear, 10 minutes to clean a print and 10 more to cure it, resin printers are amazing
I am an aspiring luthier, and I have so many card scrapers, the second I saw you pull one out I turned around, looked at my stockpile of card scrapers of many shapes and sizes, and realized that this entire time I could've actually been making my prints look nice instead of being lazy.
Not lazy at all. We all get into these modes of "this tool is for this, and that tool is for that" and miss things like this. I try really hard in my brain to look at things as to 'what' they do and ignore names and where things are usually used. It has served me very well over the years.
@@DreadMakerRoberts oh no I mean like I just decided to not at all clean up my prints unless their resin, all of my stuff like my custom keyboard and controllers and such all look like they came fresh off the printer, because they did, I did not do a single ounce of sanding lmao.
@@BombShotI feel like most people don't take time to clean up their prints, and that's kinda normal at first!
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Such a good tip! Coming from woodworking, I've always used card scrapers on my prints. I hate sanding. A quick tip is that you can roll a bur on a utility knife blade with a screwdriver shaft and hold it in a piece of scrap wood or print a holder. Most people probably already have what they need floating around. You can also make scrapers out of old saw plates or any piece of carbon steel in whatever shapes you need. Hope that helps someone.
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Just tried this method, and I LOVE IT! Light shaving, then some light pre-primer sanding, then voila! Can't thank you enough for this insight.
EDIT: Found a way to make the prints ultra-smooth with this method. Hold the cutting edge (edge that will cut the most material at once) at a 45 degree angle to the layer lines, but shave straight against the grain while keeping that angle. Makes the surface almost mirror smooth.
So u mean if the lines are left to right I should push upwards against them?
@@jonogunn at an angle yes. 45 degrees to the left/right lines. but if you're having trouble, use some coarse grit sandpaper (60-100) first then the card scrapers.
The angle is something that really is the angle of the burr on the tool and not so much a exact science. Start at 45 and experiment. it could be 25 is could be 60. Every burr is a bit different
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Great idea, and I just got my first 3D printer!
By the way, if anyone in Germany is looking for those scrapers, they are called “Ziehklingen” apparently
I think I like the German word for this more...
In Dutch they're called: verfschrapers or schrapers
I think I'm going to call them Schrapers from now on. It's a fitting name
Sickel in Swedish
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I've been using this method for years. It's frankly not just for 3d printed plastic, but any sort of edge, or deburring, chamfering, treatment on laser cut plastic also benefits from this. My favorite "scraper" is actually a thin 15cm long ruler, which is flexible, so I can bend and flex it to follow curved surfaces. Heck, you can use the blades from box cutters, scalpel blades, anything sufficiently hard and sharp can be used to scrape 3d prints, doesn't necessarily need a burr like on a card scraper.
All very good points. I will need to try a small ruler like you said. I have a few kicking around
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This really is the equivalent of "cracking the code" in terms of the main (in my opinion) drawback of FDM printing. So looking forward to hitting all of my designs with these scrapers to take them to the final level in terms of finishing! Thank you!
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Great info and good tool to keep on hand. You might also want to look into filler primer if you have not already, it's basically primer in a spray can that goes on super thick and self levels and can hide 75% of layer lines with 1 coat, that along with these scrapers should make for glass like prints. The filler primer also sands super fast and easy if you need to. I often will just spray 2 coats of primer filler and then paint with no sanding at all and get almost perfect results.
I have tried this and it honestly is not as effective. I do have a method I find works better than the filler primer and is not a aerosol here ruclips.net/user/shortsNVWWO6kvzXE
@@DreadMakerRoberts I have used a lot of the spot putty as well (though not thinned) the Dupli-Color filler primer is the bomb though (much better than Rust oleum) and I found out about it from a friend that paints $100,000+ cars for a living, yea he uses it on them. His paint jobs look like piano finish (wet look) and they are amazing (pricy as well).
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Good info! I use small shaving blades ("Ziehklinge" here in germany) for years and never saw other 3D-printing afficianados using them. A Razorblade for the start is often enough btw. the cutting edge of them is pretty soft and when you draw them in the other direction they get better and better with time, until they get too ruff.
Many woodworking tools are usable for further processing of 3D prints, experiment!
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Been using same technique ever since. Just little modifications, i made a miniature version from 1.2mm steel, 12mm tall, 120mm long with a angled bit at the other end, the other end is flat but slightly curved (in top view). Had to also make a sharpening tool for it but it is worth it. By far the most used tool to round edges and to remove blobs. Just amazing, combined with rough sanding foam/sponge... so, so freaking fast. You scrape the worst bits off, brush it with sand paper or sponge, then scrape it again.. and it is done. Much better than any deburring tools or using just sand paper alone.
So thanks mate, you have save me a LOT of time with increase in quality.
So glad to hear this!
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Thanks so much for sharing this! I've just started printing out my Storm Trooper armor to eventually join the 501'st, and this is going to save so much time sanding, which will also make my wife very happy. This will also for sure be used in my woodworking, so thanks for that! Subscribed!
How did it work to use the cards to smooth the armor pieces?
I also do 3d printed armor so any input would be appreciated
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Ben, I make small custom scrapers using that black steel banding they use to bundle lumber together for deluvery to lumber stores and at construction sites. It is ~3\4" wide, carbon steel. One can cut the profiles wanted with tin snips (which leaves a decent though rough burr), or refine it with sharpening stones files and a burnisher.
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I've been using this method for years now, It's amazing how a 3 hours sanding process only takes me 20 minutes. Btw I use razor blades, utility knife blades and exacto knifes for smaller things. 100% recommended!!
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Love to see more tools from other disciplines making their way to 3d printing. Card scrapers are a great tool for prints. Thanks for sharing.
Totally agree!
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I ordered some card scrapers after seeing your video, and they work very well indeed! Thanks for the tip, this work much quicker than sanding, and may sometimes even be sufficient, without sanding at all!
Yup this is definitely one of my go to things in the shop when I am in for lots of sanding
I started doing this on a few FLAT Surfaces that had Supports attachments using a 1/2” Flat bladed Hobby Knife before I Cured the item. Definitely saved time. 💡
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I refurbish printers for a living, and use a razor blade with the edge folded over to do this exact process for removing scuffs on the outside. It works way better than magic erasers to remove marks from plastic, is very quick, and barely removes any material.
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I like how I can now do this in an office room without the mess of creating dust all over the desk and around.
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I’ve been using sheep metal flashing from home store. Cut what size you need, edges will be sharp. Run edge over a file to get flat. $10 and 10 minutes
Has been working great.
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Shaving is a great alternative to sanding. I cast HDPE instead of 3d printing and shaving works perfectly. Plastic dust from sanding is nasty, gets everywhere and it's electrostatically attracted to stuff like clothes, hair and skin, fabrics. Also, you absolutely don't want to breathe fine plastic dust. Shaving plastic results in larger shavings that are easier to clean and not volatile
Great point!
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This is going to "shave" off so much time, thank you =)
Truth. I deal with 3d prints for work a lot. This has easily doubled my output
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Another Eureka moment provided by a helpful stranger - this is going to save a tonne of time and filler... many thanks. I left a lengthy comment on another video, where a guy was sanding his models down to 2000g and then painting it! Endless hours spent on sanding a piece to the point that the paint can't even establish a good bond. I was suggesting to never sand above 400g before painting (even 220g is reasonable) if you allow for a good primer and/or multiple wet-sanded top-coats. I've used scrapers for ages, but only on wood and the results are amazing and almost glass-like on hardwoods. I'd never considered running it on plastic and now I'm pretty stoked to try it. Gotta get some of the luthier cards (yes, you said it right).
Yay! my Canadian tongue said something right for a change eh!
You can just use acetone. It will smooth and make shiny in one go, no real work or painting required.
I'm only on my 3rd print on the new printer, so I'll have to give that a try, once I'm a bit more versed in the process.
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Going to give this a try. I have a set of scrappers in the shop but never considered them for 3d printed items. We shall see.
Oh I have a scraper and will try this. I also utilize acetone and filler primer at times to get a print smooth.
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I bought a set of luthier scrapers and im so impressed with how much control you get ive splashed out and spent a fortune on a carbide accu burr which sets the angle on both sides simultaneously. To me it is a no-brainer. Thanks a million for introducing me to this!
You are most welcome. To this day I get goosebumps on my first couple of scapes on a print. Love this technique
@@DreadMakerRoberts I'd almost feel sad if they perfected the fdm process and I couldn't do my scraping therapy.
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Reminds me of cleaning up mold lines for miniature painting. I always use the back of my exacto knife to scrape off the lines. Maybe this works for 3d printing, too if you want to get into small areas.
Yup thought if that too ruclips.net/user/shortsH1I2YnhBgtE?feature=share
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This is a great video. One of our Tech Sales Reps here at BJB has been preaching this method for a long time coming from a product development/model making background. He also uses the lathe cutoff blanks you can purchase for making custom tools, but the card stock scrapers are great for curves and smaller parts too!
Thank you. Never thought about using cutoff tools! This has given me an idea. Stay tuned!
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Did the same with spare hobby blades since februari 2020. Works fine. Had a few minor mishaps, and one a bit bigger. Cut myself pretty bad, had to get 4 stitches, just below the thumb. If you want to try another smoothing technique, first shave, then rub with a piece of cardboard. Polishes PLA real nice..
That polishing tip is gold! Thank you
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I’ve been searching for days on RUclips for a solution! This is by far the best solution! Thank you! 👍🏾
You are most welcome
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Been 3D printing for 6 1/2 years now, and I've never heard of this concept. Will have to try it at some point in the future!
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In miniature building many people use only the back of a scalpel blade to scrape flash and mould lines off in seconds. Sand paper is much less precise on more complicated surfaces also
True
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Definitely a good tip, in my experience sanding plastic doesn't take long, it just clogs a lot of sandpaper which can add up.
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Makes sense with how well they work for wood. I’ll have to grab mine and start using them for this purpose now
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I now use this method religiously and recommended it/share this video with everyone i know in the community.
Thank you! I am glad it has helped you out
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I have used these card scrapers when cleaning up the headstock cut on a kit guitar, why I never thought of using them on prints is crazy, I currently use glazing putty thinned with acetone to fill in the layer lines and then lots and lots of sanding
I know, everyone has their tools and their brains put them in this specific spot in their mind that they pigeon hole it into its intended task. But not looking at what it can also do. Some multi uses are obvious like a slot screwdriver is a pry bar :) Others, not so much.
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This is very interesting, thank you for sharing! I have been fdm printing for almost 10 years now and have been using an exacto all this time to do exactly this! Never thought of a purpose built tool, but definitely alot safer!
Yes but the blade can be handy in tight spaces for sure.
I figured out I like scalpels for shaving more than exacto knives because they’re more flexible and you can replace them more often since a box of 100 is like $12 on aliexpress. I was using them for years to remove mistakes when woodburning so when I started printing it was what I had available. But some might not like that flexibility and prefer a more rigid blade.
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I know card scrapers from woodworking and it NEVER occurred to me to use them on 3D prints, let alone that there were miniature luthier's cabinet scrapers! Thanks for doing this video. I don't do cosplay props really, but I do a LOT of organic shaped items - fossils, classical sculptures, statues, etc - and so I have a LOT of post processing I need to do with any print, even with getting generally really good prints from my Prusa MK3S printers. Thanks again! Picked up both sets scrapers (including the bigger ones to supplement ones I already had), following your links and also subscribed to help get you over the hump. Cheers!
Thank you! And I would love to see your work one day. Make sure to share!
@@DreadMakerRoberts - if you are on Instagram that's where I post everything right now but the plan is to start a "maker" RUclips channel in the next few weeks. My Instagram is my user name here, just run all together.
Have you though about sand blasting? I'd like to know if it works for 3d prints
@@cupbowlspoonforkknif Tried it and it really does not help with layer lines.
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I have been thinking about getting into 3d printing but the sanding and other chemical smoothing techniques has been turning me off. Came across this video and your smoothing technique just make more sense. Plus shaving is more satisfying than sanding. Then there is also the benefit of not having to wear respirator because shavings are not small enough that you can inhale them like you get with dust particles from sanding. But ill probably still wear a mask just in case. thanks for your video.
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As a hobbyist luthier who later got into 3d printing, im glad to finally be ahead of the curve on something lmaoooo
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I've always carved manually with a knife... What an amazing idea!
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thank you for this awesome insight i will save this video and return to it if i ever get into 3d printing
You are welcome
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I've used this for working on instruments. Never thought to use them for this purpose. Definitely going to give it a try.
Great to hear!
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Here two years late, but glad you made it past 10k subscribers! I'll be trying this out
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ive been using a knife to shave my prints and then fill in any big layer lines/gaps with plastic wood. so far it works very nicely
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I have been using craft knives for years as scrapers, mostly to fix model kit seams.
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I've been doing something similar with the back (top) edge of my Exacto knife when cleaning up prints.
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I think I'll try making my own. All you need is a file and a screwdriver. I had heard of card scrapers before but I didn't realize the secret, which is the burr. I thought burrs were always a bad thing until now.
Do you know any guides on making one with just a file/screwdriver? Every guide ive found has required a stone of some sort, which i don't have.
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You are so right! I do scrape a little bit, but I can see how I should invest in scraping more.
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I've been using the back of the utility knife I use for removing flash and other stuff. Interesting that there's an actual tool for this. I also do this to remove mold lines on Warhammer models
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If you're really desperate to try this out (before buying all the gear) you can use a NEW utility knife blade and use it carefully (can catch an edge and/or skip easier than with a real scraper, esp'lly when it starts to dull) and you have to use it more vertically than a scraper (pretty much 90°) - once it dulls slightly it's over though - still plenty sharp to use in your utility knife. I prefer the stanley trapesoidal (11-911) blades than the snap-off ones (though they'll do in a pinch and for broader flat surfaces), but I'd like to try their 28-510 blades which are more flexible (used in sticker scraper handles). If anyone has, let me know below.
This is definitely the poor/lazy person's scraper though - better results are achieved with a properly 'sharpened' scraper.
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You can use utility blades as scrapers. Smaller than a card scraper and a much finer shaving
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@@DreadMakerRoberts HAHAHA I do the same thing with those cheap rulers. They make GREAT scrapers!
Hey I love this tip! Got one for you too! TIN SNIPS! You can totally cut those down to smaller more workable tools with a good pair of tin snips. Best of luck Ben!
Yes! Thank you! I'll try my nibblers first because of less deformation of the material
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I've been doing something like this with bendy razor blades forever but this might be an upgrade for very curvy objects.
Let us know if it works for you!
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Old fashioned name for a burnisher - "a tickfa " , due to the sound ( "tick" ) it makes as it goes on and off the card scraper as it burnishes.
Love this! Thank you for the trivia
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Ok I just grabbed the scrappers I have and gave it a shot. We dang, that works. I think some priming and sanding is still required but dang. I even tried it on LW-PLA as a further test and well it worked as well. I just spent 6 weeks sanding and priming a large scale print, this would have cut that time down immensely. Thanks for putting this out there.
I feel your pain. When I discovered this my first thought was how much time I wasted sanding...
@@DreadMakerRoberts Well thats the thing about this hobby...it's all about learning. I am going to be printing some airplane parts in the next couple weeks out of LW PLA. Going to give this a try on them wa hoooo.
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I've done this with standard sharp blades for decades on plastic and other materials.
Me too but trust me when I say this that using the card scrapers is a different more efficient method
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For you DIY people: Sawblades (e.g. from hacksaws) are pretty much perfect for this. Plus you can still get some use out of all those dull blades!
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This is an excellent tip. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
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Nice, didn't know they sold these as actual tools. Often find myself reaching for a bit of punched sheet metal, like the little spanner that comes with the printer, spare PCI slot covers from the back of computers or the back edge of a broken hacksaw blade if I'm getting serious.
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Awesome, I do the same thing, but didn’t know the tools already existed.
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Another great prop tip Ben. Now to buy some scrapers.
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For anyone in Canada that has a Busy Bee tool store. I bought a set of these large scrapers for under $20.00 !
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I've been shaving with a paper knife and Stanley knife for normal sized prints
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This is genius! I’m wondering why this hasn’t caught on? It’s a great idea. I’m gonna get some card scrapers today! Gonna cut my sanding time down dramatically!
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Great Idea i'm going to get one. Post processing 3d prints are such a pain in the ass.
So much this. Especially for someone like me whos printer is ok-ish at best quality wise. I envy those that can tune their printers to make beautiful prints.
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I was gonna watch this video like last month but didn’t for some stupid reason. THANK YOU!!!!
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This is such a unique idea! Ill definitely give it a whirl on my next prints as a woodworker on my fdm projects
Let us know how it works for you.
@@DreadMakerRoberts worked great!
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20+ years ago, in deep countryside, we just used glass shards in woodworks - works the same
Neat! Never thought of this
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I'd love a detailed video on the actual working of it into a burr. Im a show me kinda learner. I wonder how this would work on something like a helmet with a long smoothish plane.
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Thanks so much for sharing this! Seeing the examples was what nailed your point home. Purchased a set!
Wait for more videos. This is a magical trick.
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Interesting! I've been using box cutters to do that. From all the work with EVA foam, re-sharpening them every so often is already second nature anyway.
Trust me when I say this that using the card scrapers is a different more efficient method
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@@DreadMakerRoberts Thanks!
And jeweler's saws are an entry drug of their own, in my case to customizing Hot Wheels cars. 😁
Ive been using "safety razor blades" you can even 3d print a holder to use them safer. they seem to do a good job.
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I always find great recs in the RPF. Just got my first 3D printer in the mail today, SO happy to have learned this now
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great idea but I would be afraid to scratch the surface too deep, I prefer little angle polisher like the wp/e that can go slow (about 1000rpm) and it wont melt the 3d printed pla surface also with a foam interface pad you can sand curved surfaces. I always sand my pla and resin prints from 120grit (remove layer lines from fdm printed parts) up to about 4000grit for a nice glossy finnish
i find if your prints are smooth enough, removing stuff with a good scalpel and then sanding a little before a coat of resin is good enough
Not many coat with resin. But that is a method I use occasionally
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This is awsome. This video was linked from the Creality community...I've not seen this technique yet, and I'm excited to try it (Esp. since I'm doing 20" tall figure prints). Great job explaining it, and the flux capacitors you have look awesome!! Subscribed and look forward to the followups
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you can actually make rounded Scraper sometimes called hand Shapers to get a better contour, or use Gouges and Chisels of different shapes in a very similar way for detail work and complicated shapes. They also last FOREVER, meaning you buy it once and you are done
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You can accomplish a very similar effect with a simple razor blade. It's worked very well for me
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I do this with a blade for abs, pla is still a pain but this helps.
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Box cutter would work just as well. Scrape, not carve/cut.
This is pretty great info.
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If it takes you an hour to sand to the point where the scraper too ten minutes, you seriously need to invest in some coarser grit paper; P120, P80 or even P60. Personally, I love my MicroMesh 60MX, 120MX and 180MX, I also have the regular MicroMesh from 1,500 to 12,000 but they rarely get used on 3d prints.
Add a small spray bottle with a drop or two of washing-up-liquid and in the 10 minutes the scraper took, I could have the same, if not a better finish just using the MX's, give me half an hour and I could have it to a high-gloss finish using a selection of the regulars, and all dust-free.
However, those sets of luthier's scrapers do look interesting, they're really reasonably priced, too. Also, you can never have enough tools, right? :D
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It reminds me of the "mould line remover" that toy soldier companies have started selling to avoid scalpels in their toy stores :)
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Thank you so much for his video. My cramping aching sandpapered hands thank you sir.
You're welcome
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Just as a heads up:
This is not recomnended if you are manufacturing dimensions to specifications, because manual scraping is not reproducible enough, even if you compensate with an offset.
As an alternative, with some materials like PLA or ABS you can fix the parts on a holder with a screw and dip it into an Acetone bath and dry it in a well vented area. This might make some "artistically valuable" stripes and stains, but gives a smooth surface and if you get it right, makes your part basically watertight. But check the part dimensions afterwards, if it needs to fit in somewhere.
I'm not sure how much crossover there is between needing something super dimensionally accurate, and needing something to look nice and smooth, but even then I still think you are overstating the potential of this problem to occur. I use card scrapers to handle dimensionally accurate channels for guitar building, and it's very very easy after some practice to trim ~ 0.1mm (+ or - ~0.05mm) which is usually less than the margin of error I account for in my 3dprinted mechanics when I design them. They're not really super pressure sensitive, but they're pressure sensitive and sharp enough to where you can get pretty good variation and have good control, (given you buy quality tools.) Honestly if you need super high dimensional accuracy out of your prints that still look good (especially long term), you should more than likely be looking at getting into budget CNC work. The parts you can make out of a material like aluminum last longer and provide better mechanical properties (especially for sliding parts when lubed.)
I think you're also not accounting for the human error to chemical processes. If you change brand, concentration, or sub-class of certain chemicals it massively changes it's effects on material. The actual material as well is non standard, if you ever have to buy a different color of plastic, or even just a different brand, it's going to be radically different in chemical make up. Iit being the same base material doesn't mean nearly as much as you would think, certain PLA+ get strength purely in rigity, which makes them brittle, while others have strength from elasticity, which makes them harder to break, but easier to temporarily or permanently alter the shape, for instance. Not to even mention you're chemically breaking down the outer layers of your print, and if you can still have the same amount of human error when you factor in time, material picking, and other factors that can change the outcome.
The only way you're getting real consistency that is better than both your chemical process, and this shaving process, and sanding as well, is if you have it all done by robots. That's not to say none of this precise, but it is to say I'm pretty confident that all 3 processes with practice and attention are about as good as a human based process will be. And honestly... if you need super high dimensional accuracy out of your prints that still look good (especially long term), you should more than likely be looking at getting into budget CNC work. The parts you can make out of a material like aluminum last longer and provide better mechanical properties (especially for sliding parts when lubed.) I know it can be prohibitively expensive at points, but I question what one would be doing that requires such dimensionally accurate parts. Especially considering the human error from my checks usually lines up with the amount of error your 3d printer would have unless it's the about the cost of a budget CNC machine, which would still be more dimensionally accurate.
True but in the end if you want something dimensionally accurate a few things would be at play. #1 you have a printer worth 10's of thousands of dollars. #2 you do a post machining run on the parts. Either way even just sanding something could be considered not dimensionally accurate.
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I have been using knives. I didn't know these were a thing. Ordered a set.
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thanks for this. i make larger props and sometimes sanding can take hours.
Absolutely will save time
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Wow really great tip for smoothing 3d printed ☺️ time saver . Well done sir 👍 liked and subscribed ♥️
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Shac attack, savage stickers?! Aw man, super happy to see a fellow tested friend!
They are the best!
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I use razor blades and the effect is the same i think, also cutter blades because they are more stiff
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Super tip !! I just got mine and I can't wait to use them. ^^
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You might want to get yourself an HSS sourcing map (the quadratic ones). These things have sharp edges all around, are pretty cheap, rigid enough for big planar surfaces and wont get dull very fast.
Got a link to some picture I can see? This has me interested but my google skillz seem to be lacking on this one
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Woodworking tools, like a scraper, always works great on plastics.
Have you tried a gentle touch of the blowtorch to smoothen up after scraping yet? You would love that to 😉
You are the second to suggest this. I will have to for sure.
I don't have good experience using a blowtorch for surface finishing but it is very good for quickly removing strings or at least curling them up to the point where a knife (or a scraper?) can easily remove them.
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I’ll have to try this out! If it’ll bring down my sand time for cosplays that’d be awesome!
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Invaluable. Thanks for sharing
You are most welcome
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I`ve been using Plaster Tools for this kind of thing.
Oh! great idea!
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I've always used needle files as I typically print small things, I'll need to try this!
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Interesting! We made a 3D printed mold for composites where one person spent like a week sanding so this technique would definitely have been good for us to know back then. I'll definitely be buying scrapers but the small ones in your link are sold out.
I'll see about a better link tomorrow for everyone. Thanks for the heads up.
Try this link amzn.to/3jmZPLK
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Wow, this really is cutting edge technology 😅 Thanks for sharing ❤
Nice pun! You my friend are my kinda people.
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If you want something for small details maybe grab a dental hygiene kit, for some reason I feel like the metal scrapper for taking off tartar would work great.
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