Hey Eric let me start off by saying that in all of RUclips, your videos offer the absolute highest amount of relevant technical content per unit of time watched. Hands down...no contest . Heck , I paid Darin about $600 for a lot of what you offer for free. I mean that was a while ago and I still consider it the best 600 I ever spent but I still appreciate what you are doing. Second, get you some EFI. I convert Harleys into "manual flex fuel vehicles" and alcohol is liquid torque. Most of my builds like to hit lambda .82-.825 by 150-200 rpm before the torque peak and then taper out to .85ish by the horsepower peak. I'm a big time data shithead and being able to tune each cylinder as it's own separate engine is like a gift from heaven. On a Harley with alcohol a 3000rpm spread from peak torque (low 4k's rpm) to peak hp (low 7k's) is a reality . Give it a try sometime
Race Calc: 3400# @10.84 527.57 whp 124.5 mph it’s 505 whp Hard to calculate engine HP without knowing the driveline loss percentage. 125 mph 3400# 511.69 whp so assuming 20% driveline loss 639.61 Hp crankshaft.
Methanol also makes more torque because the oxygen content by weight is 50 percent. Low rpm doesn’t have as much cylinder temp so it’s not all about heat absorption. The cooling effect is more horsepower on a forced induction application from the cooling effect itself and this is why it’s a larger difference compared to an NA engine.
Methanol isn’t self oxidizing as I understand it, but I guess it depends on how you define that. But it does have a much lower stoichiometric AFR, about half that of gasoline. But still a lot higher than nitro.
The converter sounds extremely soft/lazy in that thing. Call FTI and order part number SS888BA. My truck will 60' 1.39-1.40 with that converter, and I have about 150 less horsepower than what you have.
I feel that a bit more converter would lower your E.T. a food amount. Perhaps as much as a tenth or so. Just a few hundred RPMs more, and just generally a touch "looser" would do it some good, I think... 👌 Edit: I see that you already realize that in a later part of the video.. You know as well as I that a torque converter can make or break a vehicle as far as the E.T. is concerned. It's too bad that they are SO expensive, it can be PRETTY costly to play about with converter tuning... 😟
Well. I am reluctant to offer ideas to try. Because 35 years racing later. I have learned I dont know very much. But if I were to guess. I would try opening your exh lash .010" and make another hit! If that works out. Then remove two deg of lead "timing" and try another hit. If that works out. Go get a lock up convertor for your glide and add more rear gear. But these are just my own guesses and you need to take them for what they are. Oh, one more thing. I am definately no superman. Cheers! Tom
Had cop sitting at light behind me tonight. he pulled me over and asked is that Nitro I smell I said ,Only One Little cup I Swear Officer. He said that Sh8t Would make me go Blind . I said Only When I Punch it lol I think He Forgot His Name lol I used to pay for race Gas 120 octane I mix 1 pint half a quart bottle in 32 gallons of premium 97 12 percent Nitro Rc car fuel and it makes about 140 octane 76 Blazer 350 built lightweight valve train crane anti pump up lifters 400 pound comp supercharger Springs Built to rev 8500 B&M 144 Roots supercharger and in stocker lt1 Camaro half pint in 15 gallons works great was about 20 buck a quart and doesnt run hot you should try it on test mule in both other fuels probably a shot glass in alky lol it multiplies oxygen molecules in fuel and take very little to go long ways
Btw, you brought a great point, that i have thought was screwin me......CONVERTER!!....i have an expensive TSI 4000 stahl in it.........i believe it gives up around the 800/900 ft mark, cuz i run 11 teens, with 1/8 mile #'s VERY close to urs, when on gas (me too)....7:06 at 98.25.....yet 1000' aint ur #'s, and by 1320, i'm doin 11 teens at 119.97.......WHERES THAT 120, WHERES THAT 10:90??........i aint pullin as strong at 800/900 on.......ur makin me think my converter is giving up at 800/900 ft......fins layin over??.......was just great to see early #'s super close to mine, yet out the back door, its giving up.....hmmmmmm....food for thought....THANKS for lettin me rant.... PEACE my brother!!
Why do Stockers and Super Stocks run 3-Speed Auto's when allowed ? .... Less RPM Drop- Recovery Why do Pro Mod's run 3-Speed Auto's? ...Less RPM Drop-Recovery Why do Pro Stocks run 5-Speeds, PSBikes run 6-Speeds, T/F and Funnys run 12 Stage Clutch ? Less RPM Drop-Recovery
Awsome content and enjoy the comparisons you do. I to am a methanol guy now coming from ethanol! Do you ever look at the plugs for fueling and timing? What did you find as a timing difference on the dyno from gas to methanol? Appreciate the content
True Duel exaughst is over rated throttle resonse is ok but your engine fires 1 side at a time start stop start stop . kind of like car pile up a 3 inch from each header into y and 5 and a half in bottom Single will make way better velocity and actually draw air harder in cold air intake my boss had 4 nascars 2 with y pipes 2 with duels ys won we even put a bend in pipe and it directly charged charged the carb better it made more power than open carb just some thoughts
You need more compression with methanol. I ran 14.2 on my little big block chevy 402, (destroked 427, not a bored 396) in a tubbed Chevelle. I also ran much more duration, way more.... 300/320 690 lift roller endurance/marine cam with a rev kit.. I ran a little over 6000 custom stall with 5:36 gears with a glide and would be a little over 9k running in the low 9's in the traps. Methanol na is about the combination all working together, and as high a compression and rpm as your parts will allow.... You have a great gas motor combo, not so much for methanol. Methanol has half the energy of gasoline per gallon and you use twice as much of it. Which nets very little gains without a compression and rpm increase. Sure you will get some from the cooling and timing it will take. But you need to squeeze it with everything you have and possibly spin it a bit higher to get serious improvements with the same ci and top end. Methanol is far cheaper than racing gas, at least it used to be. So it is worth using just for that fact alone. You will go thru a lot more oil thou, a lot more...
Love seeing gains on the s10! At this point, I think 100 shot would give you the tq you need to get out of the hole, and I bet won’t have that draw down on the converter but you may have to go back to the 4.30 to have the gear to run it out, what do you think? With the fuel out of the gas tank, and good air I think it will be knocking on 10.50s
Love the truck. I can't wait till i can start doing mine up. I know it sounds dumb but i'm biulding the V6 to see what I can get out of it with a fully biult engine, high stall torque converter with Boost etc I'm not gonna list ever detail but you get the idea.
@@anthonyking4387 Yeah they can make good power reliably with proper tuning when it comes to fuel and ignition timng. In my opinion it's more fun to see the Vortec V6 make power, it's also 180 pounds ligter then a 350/5.7 Vortec or the Cast iron LS long bocks... Yes you can drop an LS in there too (Like everyone does) but to me that is the same trick everyone does time and time again... Why not be differnt? Thanks fot the Posative Feed baclk i expected a bunch of Nay Sayers haha
Nothing wrong with a boosted 6 I’ve got an l36 3.8 in a commodore ute,turbo hidden under the tray it traps 136mph as a budget pump ulp daily we have 98octane premium unleaded over here yet to try e85 and I definitely would not run on any less than 98
fyi, the front of the truck looks in the video to come up and then down then up then down. usually you want the front to raise once and then slowly come down. not motor related but sometimes e.t. related.
Eric, excellent content as always. You can hear the car beginning to recover from the tight converter out about 150 ft. a 6100-6200 rpm stall would let that thing leave like it had been hit from behind by another car...LOL....but you're going to a supercharged 406 next year so what's the point other than burning up more time and money......honestly, for as much as the engine is handicapped by the tight converter and the weight of the vehicle and awful weather the thing really flies....its a great showcase for your porting/ cam design and engine building skills.....please keep the videos coming....thanks!!!!
Did you FIX Tire RUB ? What Slowed Truck Down Before ? !0.86 to 11.03 , ?.... 3-Speeds to 2-Speed ,....Slicks and Tire RUB ! You Spent How much $$$ on Light Weight Trans-Carbon Fiber Driveshaft-Lightened 4.56-lightened Spool & Axels BUT carry 15 Gals= 99 Lbs ,? Cost Zero $$$$ to Drain Gas ? 99 Lbs Methanol = Cooler Charge.....Meth = Slower Flame..... Cooler CChamber....methanol 160* Engine Temps,...2 times Methanol Burned....2 times Exhaust ....???? Bigger Ex Pipes Needed ??? Engine Breathing IN HOT Underhood AIR ? Seal CARB to Hood Scoop ??? OIL Changes = Methanol Dilutes ??
The slicks and powerglide slowed it down. The tires no longer rub after adding wheel spacers. In order to see if the methanol gained over gas I left the weight the same. I haven't sealed the carb to the cowl because it seems like a pain to do.
I know this is a comparison video on fuels, and I’m no expert, but it seems like it may help a little if you can slow down the rebound on the front just a tad, and add some compression if you have that capability. It’s hard to tell, but it seems like it bounces and I’m sure it’s not helping your 60ft. Love the video, been thinking about trying methanol myself.
Sounded like it was breaking up a bit on the top end.....My experience with methanol was very positive. I went from running 7.56 at Denver in 10,000ft of air to 7.32 in the same air....dual carbs on gas to dual Ron's terminators on methanol injection.....there's more left in it but a little connecting rod mishap has prevented me from running anymore this season.....
your gas times are similar to my 1986 corvette, 420ci, 11.32:1, Solid Roller 252,252 .650, .650 110 LSA, Miniram, 700r4 3500stall, 3.73. factory computer level 5 tuning, through 650cfm Mass Air... the car isnt tuned right and falls flatline off at 5500rpm-7000rpm at 350RWHP. Best time it ran with that setup was 11.25 @ 122.04... I installed a Accel gen 7 dfi in 2009 and couldnt tune it at all and now its sat for the last 13 years... its only got 800 miles on everything since 2005. one trip to the track rolling into the throttle (traction limited) net passes of 11.25, 11.27, 11.31, 11.37 (not in that order)... Fulll throttle launch unloaded 1st and had to be shifted to second in 1 foot distance netted me 11.85 @ 119. basically a powerglide using only 2nd and 3rd.
Why you are not in the 1.30's for 60' times is beyond me. Are you running leafs or 4 link.? Not, from what I can see, getting separation after launch. You sure have it hooking though. Not a single break.... pretty sweet.
About 4 years back we dyno. tested the the length of pipe after the collector. 18.inch was optimal. We couldn't.decide if it was the pulse or laminator that was in play.
Man, I'm impressed! 3200 lbs truck with an engine that generally has difficuly making over 400 hp with decent parts! Yeah, I know that these are really good parts but almost an additional 300 hp! I believe you've found a new client. Exellent videos and like to see your runs and time slips.
I have herd on the newer N/A cars that people get e85 tune they get some similar results. Pick up torque under power peak but not much horsepower. Not sure if there is any correlation with the two
That rear end acts surprisingly good. Not perfect by a long shot, but could be a lot worse. I would try to get the power valve to work, and tune the jets for part throttle starting at 50% and pushing it to 100% before hitting second gear. This should take care of the richment on low revs, and lean it out at top end. For the exhaust, everything could be a size bigger. The heat colouring comes from restriction. 1/4 inch bigger primaries, 1" bigger collectors, x-pipe and Nascar style wide ends. Transition from head to tube needs to be smooth and about 4" long, and the ends about foot wide pointing upwads and aft. This helps with scavenging on high speeds, and pushes the rear down on low speeds.
Eric, watching your 10.76 run reveals you defiantly need to do some shock adjustments. Your truck is hitting the tire hard and bouncing. My car does this and will knock the tires loose. That is with the old Lakewood 90/10 and 50/50 shocks. I put Rancho 90/10 and Calvert 5 way rear adjustables on it now but I have not ran it yet.
Try this mate. Put some paint on your collector extensions, after a run cut the extension at the point the paint stops burning. It’s an old trick I learned years ago.
Only problem I have with gas is weather changes, humidity, and after 4th round, or double entry's. Hard to keep it cool. The q16 is good to eliminate weather fluctuations, but it's unreasonably expensive. Slightly more stable a little fat running c14 vp. I am finally making the switch to alcohol this winter though.
Hi Eric. What can you get a ls3 Dart PRO1 head to flow @ 700 lift? Have you ever done them? What dose the truck weigh? Wouldn't the truck run a bit faster with higher water temps letting the oil heat up and boil out any water that get in the oil? Turbo W/O intercooler would make it fly on methanol !
One nice thing about efi is its easy to do things like fatten it midrange and then lean it out top end. Throttle body efi would also still maintain the charge cooling. You can probably do the same thing with a carb but it's a little trickier.
Throttle body EFI will NOT maintain the same Latent Heat of Vaporisation effect as a carburetor will. An EFI throttle body injection system does NOT have a venturi in the barrels that causes the pressure drop which makes the L.H.V. cooling effect happen. And no, it isn't hard to tune the circuits in a carburetor to change the A/F through the various throttle positions and RPM band. With the Billet metering blocks and carb bodies available today, EVERY orifice inside AND outside of the carburetor has a replaceable "jet" in it that either meters fuel or air in that particular part of the circuit that it is in. Today's carburetors are VERY easily tuneable in every part of every circuit for fuel as well as air. One just has to have complete knowledge of how exactly all those circuits work, how they interact with each other, and in what part of the throttle position and RPM band they are active. Once a guy knows all that, it's very easy to make adjustments to wherever he wants in those areas. It's just a matter of unscrewing a little brass "jet" and screwing in a new one of a different size. I actually think that it's harder to learn all the software and computer jazz, than it is to adjust a high-end carburetor. Even with E.F.I., one STILL has to be knowledgeable in the same areas of tuning, and the causes & effects of changing the A/F ratio in the power band. It works the same with E.F.I. or a carb, it's just with one you are pressing buttons, and with the other you are replacing threaded jets.
@@davelowets You seem confused. A pressure drop is not required for LHV, vaporization is. Take some rubbing alcohol and put it on your arm and note how cool it feels. And, even if a change in pressure was needed, what do you imagine happens when the fuel goes from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure spray/vapor as it exists the injector? Goes from 40-60psi to zero (or to manifold pressure rather)? That is a MUCH greater pressure drop than fuel sees with air going through a venturi. On a dyno we see no difference between tbi and a carb in terms of power although both tend to have a slight advantage over port efi due to the charge cooling with port efi having less time/volume to cool vs tbi/carb. And I never said a carb can't fatten the midrange then learn out top end, I just said it's a lot easier to do with efi. With efi I can tune individual rpm everywhere in the fuel curve if I wanted to. Trying to that with a carb is very difficult, not impossible. I have both carbs and efi and I will say this - once you learn them both and set them up the main difference is tuning efi is way faster, carbs are usually much cheaper.
Hey Eric, Tim here, those header ext's.....yes, you are rite, if u cut ur dudes rite after that blue line in the stainless, thats BEST for THAT combo......: we used to put 18" ext on, and paint them white.......where it stopped turning brown from heat, is where you cut them......just a thought......but ur gut was rite...cut 'em at where the blue stops......thats for THAT combo.....gas mite be a dif length.......but where the heat stops, is where u cut!!!....GREAT vid!!!...LOVE IT!!!
I think it would be really interesting to see what this engine does on e85. I bet it would make just about the same power and torque. Where I live e85 is close to $3/gallon. E85 wouldn't be my first choice for the 15/1 engine in your Camaro but it wouldn't be terrible and would be very interesting to see.
@@WeingartnerRacing E85 test kits are cheap. The blend consistency is a problem but less so for the fuel injection crowd who has ethanol content sensors and offset tables to compensate. Even if you're not a fan of e85, you'll probably get views. You should set up a poll to see if your viewers want to see videos about it. I do.
I noticed at each point you say What did it do, commercial cuts you off................looks like gained 0.026 from the 60 foot marker. can you tell us the Cranking compression on this 355 engine?dynamic?. also it was said if you run the 18 Inch extensions that you see where the Burnt away colring ends take and Saw that OFF right at end and that is where you run them. all mostly was seen used on Stock nhra cars
Bracket racing - methanol for consistency. All out classes - Fuel/gas E-85 out of the barrel not the pump. Boost assistance-methanol or E-85 -higher pressures -methanol
I am going thru our 355s lack of torque too , same bte tranny as you & sent bte 8 in converter to loosen up 400 more on launch & am crippled by air flow & can’t get it to launch over 4800 on brake , this fall I plan on calling you as a customer & upgrading to a solid roller & “USA” made allum heads that’ll let us have true volumetric efficiency. I’m too conservative on runners by nature seen friends learn hard way wasting $ . Thank you for these educational videos ! 🙏
The temp dropped like 3 degrees from the first meth run to the second with the collectors added, so I'm sure that helped a little as well. Also, what about E85? Would E85 make as much horsepower/torque as Methanol?
We’re the dyno pulls done at the exact same engine coolant temps? Wonder if your faster runs at the track we’re also due to the cooler running engine 160F with methanol vs 200F with gas.
Maybe some of the guys meant header extensions extensions instead of collector can get them confused. Maybe try slowing the front shocks down a bit.Truck sounds great. Glad you're not too far away from big chief that guy can figure about anything out. Thanks for the video!
Just a suggestion on your suspension. Looks like you have a little bit of leap frog going on. I think there is probably 3 or 4 hundredths on your 60' if you tighten you tighten your rebound to slow down the front end rise on launch. Could gain .08 or so on the run. Worth a try.
Hey great video. Didn't see on any other video if you have ever tried short shifting it to get better ET. With that extra torque may see some changes. I know it's a comparison video but I was just curious. The converter does seem a little mismatched for this combo.
In the mechanical injection side we always said make it so fat that it flutters then steal 2 jets. That's always been a great start point. With all the added o2 in the fuel you can add fuel to the point it will wash the rings and still run a dang good pass. Instead of running a 12ish afr we ran something like 5.5-6.2
Fun thing with methanol is that when you get it to fat it just doesn't run kinda like a 30 year old junk carb with a bad accelerator pump. We just keep adding pills till it stumbles back it down a couple and go. It is so forgiving. I love it.
You made a lot of changes to the carb to run methanol. If you didnt gain 50 horseoff methanol you have something definitely wrong on your set up. On my dirt car I have 50 horsepower more on methanol and that's dyno proven .
@@WeingartnerRacing I have been running methanol in my dirt modified for years , and have had my engines dyno run on both methanol and race fuel . What you are saying is totally not true . You have something totally wrong with your engine . Race gas produces more torque and methanol always produces more horsepower . Methanol also makes your engine run way cool . I'm talking 30 + years of experience with methanol and 5 track championships .
@@darwinfoster7420 you might have championships but you are wrong about the horsepower and torque. Your volumetric efficiency goes down with methanol because it takes up more area in the port. So in an engine that is high rpm with highly efficient heads you lose power with meth. Torque always goes up because it cools the charge. However it lowers the rpm peak of torque for the same reason. You don’t have to believe me you can call any engine builder that builds 800-1000 sbc or bbc that make over 1200 and ask them. They will say the same.
@@WeingartnerRacing if you say so but your 355 isnt close to 800horse power . And I dont need to ask an engine builder I build engines and dyno them on my own dyno .you can keep listening to engine masters or whoever you listen to . I will continue to leave you in the dust .
@@darwinfoster7420 you are correct but it is a high rpm engine. I’m glad you have a dyno but look at the highest horsepower engines none of them run methanol. Q16 not methanol. I wish what you are saying is true but I haven’t witnessed it and I have been involved in many dyno sessions.
That under hood temperature is killing your engine power. I tried a K&N velocity stack on a flat hood and it improved.2 tenths in the 1/4. Methanol burns slower and is self originated so the richer it is (within reason) the more torque it will make. It’s not rich enough if it’s not burning your eyes and nose lol. You can purchase scented oil additives for methanol to help with the stinging plus it helps keep the aluminum fuel fittings from getting eaten away by the methanol. (Been there done that). Best of luck
@@WeingartnerRacing the velocity stack I used stuck out of the hood grabbing cool air. If you can somehow do the same like NASCAR for example or pro stock now a days this would definitely help with E.T.s
Shifted on time last pass i think! Boy you got a slick paint job! The lower you shifted the faster it went! Thats where all the diff was! PS. Have you drained the oil yet & vaped it off at 180 to see what it looks like? Plus see whats on floor of pan for me? Boy its fling! What was the da by the way? We use brad penn & was getting blackish brown sludge so went bought m1 vp gonna try to see if it changes it or if its just a meth thing? Could be a top lube thing! Need help! Do you have a data logger, could of just sounded like it!
Eric, did you upgrade your fuel pump? Do you have a g meter in your system? A loose rule of thumb is 8 psi of fuel pressure is lost for every 1 g of acceleration. So for example if you are pulling 2 g’s of acceleration and have 16 psi of fuel pressure, the fuel will literally stop in the line for a moment and I have seen many layover issues caused by this issue and people always think their pump is strong enough and never is.
Just an FYI also, many running methanol have the tank in the front that helps prevent this issue. You could try running a small temp tank for single runs to test it. Of course just make sure you have all the needed safety fire equipment. That stuff burns invisible!
Nice work! You shared a ton of information that people can learn from. I hope to see some testing done while you’re headed toward the rich side. I’ve been around these circumstances several times and it’s always fun to see seemingly small changes deliver such large results. I do not think you’re crowding anything for area on the intake side. Just a maybe on the exhaust side for methanol. I’d like to see some easy changes made on that side. Maybe a tighter lash, rocker ratio change. I could be out in left field with that idea.
Good stuff, Eric! Very interesting. You mentioned the possible loss of power due to the methanol evaporation caused by heat. I was wondering if using something like the Snow Performance boost cooler would help with that. I know it is a mix of water and methanol, and I have seen good results with gas engines, both NA and boosted. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! o7 PS: You really have to speak to your cameraman(woman) about filming the burnouts! LOL! At least we got to see one of them though!
Methanol boils at 140F. -- I don't think methanol evaporation is really what gets us. When the fuel hits a surface above its boiling point, the fuel converts from liquid phase to gas phase and occupies more space that would otherwise be occupied by useful air. -- I have a theory on how to test this. A small block chevy with standard valve angles will lose more power at the top end where the horsepower is already beginning to decline. This implies that the fuel is hitting the head and cylinders due to all of their crooked geometry. The mid-range power is probably killer though, because the fuel is kept suspended in the air and has time to exchange heat.
@@WeingartnerRacing Ron's racing flying toilet mechanical fuel injection about 2 grand works perfectly raced one on my roadster for years. Won many races never a problem. Probably be alittle quicker too.
I would think for a engine that’s only 355 cid and running 124 mph that carburetor on methanol are gas is way to big it would more than likely run quicker and faster with only a 750 methanol carburetor.
Really I race a 1972 stock eliminator mustang with 351 cleveland and it has 780 vs and car weighs 3500 # and in bad air 3500 ft plus runs 10:70 at 124 are so and in Las Vegas it runs10:80 about 120.
All I was saying is that maybe the carburetor is to large and I just have you an example of car/engine with a smaller carburetor that runs quicker.And that it was not to criticize what you are doing.
@@alvinwilliamson2461 I’m not upset and I understand where you are coming from. I believed that too because the internet said that same thing. So I went from a 830cfm to the current 1000cfm and it gained .12. On the dyno on almost every motor with the exception of one going bigger made more power and torque everywhere.
Hey Eric let me start off by saying that in all of RUclips, your videos offer the absolute highest amount of relevant technical content per unit of time watched. Hands down...no contest . Heck , I paid Darin about $600 for a lot of what you offer for free. I mean that was a while ago and I still consider it the best 600 I ever spent but I still appreciate what you are doing. Second, get you some EFI. I convert Harleys into "manual flex fuel vehicles" and alcohol is liquid torque. Most of my builds like to hit lambda .82-.825 by 150-200 rpm before the torque peak and then taper out to .85ish by the horsepower peak. I'm a big time data shithead and being able to tune each cylinder as it's own separate engine is like a gift from heaven. On a Harley with alcohol a 3000rpm spread from peak torque (low 4k's rpm) to peak hp (low 7k's) is a reality . Give it a try sometime
It hard to invest 10k for a good EFI setup when for that money I can get a liberty trans.
@@WeingartnerRacing It's good to see someone reference Liberty Gear. That place is amazing!
Race Calc:
3400# @10.84 527.57 whp
124.5 mph it’s 505 whp
Hard to calculate engine HP without knowing the driveline loss percentage.
125 mph 3400# 511.69 whp so assuming 20% driveline loss 639.61 Hp crankshaft.
3200 lbs.
@@rtkl13 Truck then add driver 👍. Honest mistake don’t feel bad.
@@HeadFlowInc oops....got me✌️
Methanol also makes more torque because the oxygen content by weight is 50 percent. Low rpm doesn’t have as much cylinder temp so it’s not all about heat absorption. The cooling effect is more horsepower on a forced induction application from the cooling effect itself and this is why it’s a larger difference compared to an NA engine.
Methanol and Nitromethane are both oxydizers creating there own oxygen thats why people can run these fuels so rich .Nice video 😁
Methanol isn’t self oxidizing as I understand it, but I guess it depends on how you define that. But it does have a much lower stoichiometric AFR, about half that of gasoline. But still a lot higher than nitro.
The converter sounds extremely soft/lazy in that thing. Call FTI and order part number SS888BA. My truck will 60' 1.39-1.40 with that converter, and I have about 150 less horsepower than what you have.
What does it weigh.
2970 with me in it.
I feel that a bit more converter would lower your E.T. a food amount. Perhaps as much as a tenth or so. Just a few hundred RPMs more, and just generally a touch "looser" would do it some good, I think... 👌
Edit: I see that you already realize that in a later part of the video..
You know as well as I that a torque converter can make or break a vehicle as far as the E.T. is concerned. It's too bad that they are SO expensive, it can be PRETTY costly to play about with converter tuning... 😟
Well. I am reluctant to offer ideas to try. Because 35 years racing later. I have learned I dont know very much. But if I were to guess. I would try opening your exh lash
.010" and make another hit! If that works out. Then remove two deg of lead "timing" and try another hit. If that works out. Go get a lock up convertor for your glide and add more rear gear. But these are just my own guesses and you need to take them for what they are. Oh, one more thing. I am definately no superman.
Cheers!
Tom
I may try a lock up converter on the new motor.
Had cop sitting at light behind me tonight.
he pulled me over and asked is that Nitro I smell
I said ,Only One Little cup I Swear Officer.
He said that Sh8t Would make me go Blind .
I said Only When I Punch it lol
I think He Forgot His Name lol
I used to pay for race Gas 120 octane
I mix 1 pint half a quart bottle in 32 gallons of premium 97
12 percent Nitro Rc car fuel and it makes about 140 octane 76 Blazer
350 built lightweight valve train crane anti pump up lifters 400 pound comp supercharger Springs Built to rev 8500 B&M 144 Roots supercharger
and in stocker lt1 Camaro
half pint in 15 gallons
works great
was about 20 buck a quart
and doesnt run hot
you should try it on test mule in both other fuels probably a shot glass in alky lol
it multiplies oxygen molecules in fuel and take very little to go long ways
Btw, you brought a great point, that i have thought was screwin me......CONVERTER!!....i have an expensive TSI 4000 stahl in it.........i believe it gives up around the 800/900 ft mark, cuz i run 11 teens, with 1/8 mile #'s VERY close to urs, when on gas (me too)....7:06 at 98.25.....yet 1000' aint ur #'s, and by 1320, i'm doin 11 teens at 119.97.......WHERES THAT 120, WHERES THAT 10:90??........i aint pullin as strong at 800/900 on.......ur makin me think my converter is giving up at 800/900 ft......fins layin over??.......was just great to see early #'s super close to mine, yet out the back door, its giving up.....hmmmmmm....food for thought....THANKS for lettin me rant.... PEACE my brother!!
Why do Stockers and Super Stocks run 3-Speed Auto's when allowed ? .... Less RPM Drop- Recovery
Why do Pro Mod's run 3-Speed Auto's? ...Less RPM Drop-Recovery
Why do Pro Stocks run 5-Speeds, PSBikes run 6-Speeds, T/F and Funnys run 12 Stage Clutch ? Less RPM Drop-Recovery
Awsome content and enjoy the comparisons you do. I to am a methanol guy now coming from ethanol!
Do you ever look at the plugs for fueling and timing?
What did you find as a timing difference on the dyno from gas to methanol?
Appreciate the content
my question too, my guess is it would need a unique timing curve?
I left the timing the same for both fuels. Judging by the plugs it looks perfect.
On injection 1/8 mile 4.8 -5.0 330 ft afr at 1/4 6.5
Fatter is quicker to 330 or 1/8 depending on how it’s set up
True Duel exaughst is over rated throttle resonse is ok but
your engine fires 1 side at a time start stop start stop .
kind of like car pile up
a 3 inch from each header into y and 5 and a half in bottom Single will make way better velocity and actually draw air harder in cold air intake
my boss had 4 nascars 2 with y pipes 2 with duels
ys won
we even put a bend in pipe and it directly charged charged the carb better
it made more power than open carb
just some thoughts
You need more compression with methanol. I ran 14.2 on my little big block chevy 402, (destroked 427, not a bored 396) in a tubbed Chevelle. I also ran much more duration, way more.... 300/320 690 lift roller endurance/marine cam with a rev kit.. I ran a little over 6000 custom stall with 5:36 gears with a glide and would be a little over 9k running in the low 9's in the traps. Methanol na is about the combination all working together, and as high a compression and rpm as your parts will allow.... You have a great gas motor combo, not so much for methanol. Methanol has half the energy of gasoline per gallon and you use twice as much of it. Which nets very little gains without a compression and rpm increase. Sure you will get some from the cooling and timing it will take. But you need to squeeze it with everything you have and possibly spin it a bit higher to get serious improvements with the same ci and top end. Methanol is far cheaper than racing gas, at least it used to be. So it is worth using just for that fact alone. You will go thru a lot more oil thou, a lot more...
Love seeing gains on the s10! At this point, I think 100 shot would give you the tq you need to get out of the hole, and I bet won’t have that draw down on the converter but you may have to go back to the 4.30 to have the gear to run it out, what do you think? With the fuel out of the gas tank, and good air I think it will be knocking on 10.50s
Also let peeps know. That methanol will put moisture thru your engine. Also contaminate your oil
Nice video!!! As for the torque issue, try going back to the 3 speed automatic, more torque the gearing.
Love the truck. I can't wait till i can start doing mine up. I know it sounds dumb but i'm biulding the V6 to see what I can get out of it with a fully biult engine, high stall torque converter with Boost etc I'm not gonna list ever detail but you get the idea.
Good deal! No one else will! Ive often asked why not? They always say it cant be done due to counter balance shaft that not many have!
@@anthonyking4387 Yeah they can make good power reliably with proper tuning when it comes to fuel and ignition timng. In my opinion it's more fun to see the Vortec V6 make power, it's also 180 pounds ligter then a 350/5.7 Vortec or the Cast iron LS long bocks... Yes you can drop an LS in there too (Like everyone does) but to me that is the same trick everyone does time and time again... Why not be differnt? Thanks fot the Posative Feed baclk i expected a bunch of Nay Sayers haha
Nothing wrong with a boosted 6 I’ve got an l36 3.8 in a commodore ute,turbo hidden under the tray it traps 136mph as a budget pump ulp daily we have 98octane premium unleaded over here yet to try e85 and I definitely would not run on any less than 98
Nice truck. Curios what the converter slip % is on the top end. Rpm seems high for the mph.
fyi, the front of the truck looks in the video to come up and then down then up then down. usually you want the front to raise once and then slowly come down. not motor related but sometimes e.t. related.
Eric, excellent content as always. You can hear the car beginning to recover from the tight converter out about 150 ft. a 6100-6200 rpm stall would let that thing leave like it had been hit from behind by another car...LOL....but you're going to a supercharged 406 next year so what's the point other than burning up more time and money......honestly, for as much as the engine is handicapped by the tight converter and the weight of the vehicle and awful weather the thing really flies....its a great showcase for your porting/ cam design and engine building skills.....please keep the videos coming....thanks!!!!
I will try thanks for watching.
Did you FIX Tire RUB ?
What Slowed Truck Down Before ? !0.86 to 11.03 , ?.... 3-Speeds to 2-Speed ,....Slicks and Tire RUB !
You Spent How much $$$ on Light Weight Trans-Carbon Fiber Driveshaft-Lightened 4.56-lightened Spool & Axels BUT carry 15 Gals= 99 Lbs ,? Cost Zero $$$$ to Drain Gas ? 99 Lbs
Methanol = Cooler Charge.....Meth = Slower Flame..... Cooler CChamber....methanol 160* Engine Temps,...2 times Methanol Burned....2 times Exhaust ....???? Bigger Ex Pipes Needed ???
Engine Breathing IN HOT Underhood AIR ? Seal CARB to Hood Scoop ???
OIL Changes = Methanol Dilutes ??
The slicks and powerglide slowed it down.
The tires no longer rub after adding wheel spacers.
In order to see if the methanol gained over gas I left the weight the same.
I haven't sealed the carb to the cowl because it seems like a pain to do.
I'm sure it ran cooler on methanol. Also was it more consistent from day to night?
I know this is a comparison video on fuels, and I’m no expert, but it seems like it may help a little if you can slow down the rebound on the front just a tad, and add some compression if you have that capability. It’s hard to tell, but it seems like it bounces and I’m sure it’s not helping your 60ft. Love the video, been thinking about trying methanol myself.
I will try that next time.
Sounded like it was breaking up a bit on the top end.....My experience with methanol was very positive. I went from running 7.56 at Denver in 10,000ft of air to 7.32 in the same air....dual carbs on gas to dual Ron's terminators on methanol injection.....there's more left in it but a little connecting rod mishap has prevented me from running anymore this season.....
I hit rev limiter
Is tail gate on that thing? I must have missed something on your explanations
Definitely sounds better in 1st gear on methanol
id like to see an e85 comparison
I just can't see spending money on an e85 carb to go slower than methanol.
Do you do your heads different fir each of the fuel , race gas vs Methanol ?
It takes a lot to run 10's , sounds good !
Adding more vaporizing fuel to an air charge will always lower the charge temperature. Vaporizing consumes heat energy. (Mazda SKYACTIV technology)
Make sure you have double the fuel supply for alcohol mate.
your gas times are similar to my 1986 corvette, 420ci, 11.32:1, Solid Roller 252,252 .650, .650 110 LSA, Miniram, 700r4 3500stall, 3.73. factory computer level 5 tuning, through 650cfm Mass Air... the car isnt tuned right and falls flatline off at 5500rpm-7000rpm at 350RWHP. Best time it ran with that setup was 11.25 @ 122.04... I installed a Accel gen 7 dfi in 2009 and couldnt tune it at all and now its sat for the last 13 years... its only got 800 miles on everything since 2005. one trip to the track rolling into the throttle (traction limited) net passes of 11.25, 11.27, 11.31, 11.37 (not in that order)... Fulll throttle launch unloaded 1st and had to be shifted to second in 1 foot distance netted me 11.85 @ 119. basically a powerglide using only 2nd and 3rd.
Why you are not in the 1.30's for 60' times is beyond me.
Are you running leafs or 4 link.?
Not, from what I can see, getting separation after launch.
You sure have it hooking though. Not a single break.... pretty sweet.
We pick up .35 on methanol consistently, and another .12-.15 on M5 over standard methanol.
More compression.
Running rich. More timing?
Spark plugs?
Methanol lube!
Mike
18 inches after O2 sensors is what they say..
About 4 years back we dyno. tested the the length of pipe after the collector. 18.inch was optimal. We couldn't.decide if it was the pulse or laminator that was in play.
Man, I'm impressed! 3200 lbs truck with an engine that generally has difficuly making over 400 hp with decent parts! Yeah, I know that these are really good parts but almost an additional 300 hp! I believe you've found a new client. Exellent videos and like to see your runs and time slips.
Where did you get the door panels?
I have herd on the newer N/A cars that people get e85 tune they get some similar results. Pick up torque under power peak but not much horsepower. Not sure if there is any correlation with the two
That rear end acts surprisingly good. Not perfect by a long shot, but could be a lot worse. I would try to get the power valve to work, and tune the jets for part throttle starting at 50% and pushing it to 100% before hitting second gear. This should take care of the richment on low revs, and lean it out at top end. For the exhaust, everything could be a size bigger. The heat colouring comes from restriction. 1/4 inch bigger primaries, 1" bigger collectors, x-pipe and Nascar style wide ends. Transition from head to tube needs to be smooth and about 4" long, and the ends about foot wide pointing upwads and aft. This helps with scavenging on high speeds, and pushes the rear down on low speeds.
Eric, watching your 10.76 run reveals you defiantly need to do some shock adjustments. Your truck is hitting the tire hard and bouncing. My car does this and will knock the tires loose. That is with the old Lakewood 90/10 and 50/50 shocks. I put Rancho 90/10 and Calvert 5 way rear adjustables on it now but I have not ran it yet.
Im going to play with the shocks next.
Try this mate.
Put some paint on your collector extensions, after a run cut the extension at the point the paint stops burning. It’s an old trick I learned years ago.
Only problem I have with gas is weather changes, humidity, and after 4th round, or double entry's. Hard to keep it cool. The q16 is good to eliminate weather fluctuations, but it's unreasonably expensive. Slightly more stable a little fat running c14 vp. I am finally making the switch to alcohol this winter though.
Hi Eric. What can you get a ls3 Dart PRO1 head to flow @ 700 lift? Have you ever done them?
What dose the truck weigh? Wouldn't the truck run a bit faster with higher water temps letting the oil heat up and boil out any water that get in the oil? Turbo W/O intercooler would make it fly on methanol !
I have never seen those heads
3200lbs. It may run better hotter but its hard to get there on methanol.
Converter isn't helping, but if you didn't have to drive through it your rpm at the traps would be ridiculous.
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
Do u like dog leg boosters Eric?
Your ET would also go up if you control the front shocks better to fast up and down
I only have single adjustables. I wish I had dual adjustment.
How often you changing your oil from moisture making it milky?
If you warm the car up and don’t run overly rich it will not milk the oil. I never had that problem.
One nice thing about efi is its easy to do things like fatten it midrange and then lean it out top end. Throttle body efi would also still maintain the charge cooling. You can probably do the same thing with a carb but it's a little trickier.
Throttle body EFI will NOT maintain the same Latent Heat of Vaporisation effect as a carburetor will.
An EFI throttle body injection system does NOT have a venturi in the barrels that causes the pressure drop which makes the L.H.V. cooling effect happen.
And no, it isn't hard to tune the circuits in a carburetor to change the A/F through the various throttle positions and RPM band.
With the Billet metering blocks and carb bodies available today, EVERY orifice inside AND outside of the carburetor has a replaceable "jet" in it that either meters fuel or air in that particular part of the circuit that it is in.
Today's carburetors are VERY easily tuneable in every part of every circuit for fuel as well as air. One just has to have complete knowledge of how exactly all those circuits work, how they interact with each other, and in what part of the throttle position and RPM band they are active. Once a guy knows all that, it's very easy to make adjustments to wherever he wants in those areas. It's just a matter of unscrewing a little brass "jet" and screwing in a new one of a different size.
I actually think that it's harder to learn all the software and computer jazz, than it is to adjust a high-end carburetor. Even with E.F.I., one STILL has to be knowledgeable in the same areas of tuning, and the causes & effects of changing the A/F ratio in the power band. It works the same with E.F.I. or a carb, it's just with one you are pressing buttons, and with the other you are replacing threaded jets.
@@davelowets
You seem confused. A pressure drop is not required for LHV, vaporization is. Take some rubbing alcohol and put it on your arm and note how cool it feels.
And, even if a change in pressure was needed, what do you imagine happens when the fuel goes from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure spray/vapor as it exists the injector? Goes from 40-60psi to zero (or to manifold pressure rather)? That is a MUCH greater pressure drop than fuel sees with air going through a venturi.
On a dyno we see no difference between tbi and a carb in terms of power although both tend to have a slight advantage over port efi due to the charge cooling with port efi having less time/volume to cool vs tbi/carb.
And I never said a carb can't fatten the midrange then learn out top end, I just said it's a lot easier to do with efi. With efi I can tune individual rpm everywhere in the fuel curve if I wanted to.
Trying to that with a carb is very difficult, not impossible.
I have both carbs and efi and I will say this - once you learn them both and set them up the main difference is tuning efi is way faster, carbs are usually much cheaper.
Man I live in Owasso just north of tulsa raceway park I grew up at this track!
Thanks for the info!
Engine was breaking up at the end of the track.
Rev limiter.
Back the low side chip to 3600 let the convertor work
I have tried 4000rpm leave before and it was slower.
Hey Eric,
Tim here, those header ext's.....yes, you are rite, if u cut ur dudes rite after that blue line in the stainless, thats BEST for THAT combo......: we used to put 18" ext on, and paint them white.......where it stopped turning brown from heat, is where you cut them......just a thought......but ur gut was rite...cut 'em at where the blue stops......thats for THAT combo.....gas mite be a dif length.......but where the heat stops, is where u cut!!!....GREAT vid!!!...LOVE IT!!!
Thanks for watching.
Looking like you can use a 150 shot off the line. Wonder if thatd handle it
Yeah to tune the exhaust pipe just rub oil on the pipe and whare it stops burning cut it there and your good.
I think it would be really interesting to see what this engine does on e85. I bet it would make just about the same power and torque. Where I live e85 is close to $3/gallon. E85 wouldn't be my first choice for the 15/1 engine in your Camaro but it wouldn't be terrible and would be very interesting to see.
I just don't see the desire for E85. I know it will not be as fast. The pump E85 isn't consistent and the race E85 cost almost as much as methanol.
@@WeingartnerRacing E85 test kits are cheap. The blend consistency is a problem but less so for the fuel injection crowd who has ethanol content sensors and offset tables to compensate. Even if you're not a fan of e85, you'll probably get views. You should set up a poll to see if your viewers want to see videos about it. I do.
I noticed at each point you say What did it do, commercial cuts you off................looks like gained 0.026 from the 60 foot marker. can you tell us the Cranking compression on this 355 engine?dynamic?. also it was said if you run the 18 Inch extensions that you see where the Burnt away colring ends take and Saw that OFF right at end and that is where you run them. all mostly was seen used on Stock nhra cars
Cranking 220 compression ratio 11.9
Um ---------------- If your testing fuel with a carb, why is there a working Holley efi display on the dash ?
If you look at older videos there you will see I took the computer out of a sniper to use it for a data logger.
Bracket racing - methanol for consistency.
All out classes - Fuel/gas
E-85 out of the barrel not the pump.
Boost assistance-methanol or E-85 -higher pressures -methanol
E85 out of the pump is just fine. Kroger in my area consistently has 82-87% year round.
I am going thru our 355s lack of torque too , same bte tranny as you & sent bte 8 in converter to loosen up 400 more on launch & am crippled by air flow & can’t get it to launch over 4800 on brake , this fall I plan on calling you as a customer & upgrading to a solid roller & “USA” made allum heads that’ll let us have true volumetric efficiency. I’m too conservative on runners by nature seen friends learn hard way wasting $ . Thank you for these educational videos ! 🙏
Thanks for watching.
The temp dropped like 3 degrees from the first meth run to the second with the collectors added, so I'm sure that helped a little as well.
Also, what about E85? Would E85 make as much horsepower/torque as Methanol?
E85 Wouldn't make more than Methanol.
@@WeingartnerRacing OK, thanks. Thought if it made nearly as much as Methanol, it'd be a bit cheaper to use.
We’re the dyno pulls done at the exact same engine coolant temps? Wonder if your faster runs at the track we’re also due to the cooler running engine 160F with methanol vs 200F with gas.
Dyno was within 5degrees. Engine was about 160 when I tested in June it was just much harder to keep it that cool
I may have missed it but which methanol were you running?
Regular Sunoco
@@WeingartnerRacing any intentions to try VP M5?
man the truck looks an sounds and runs really good, lets see more truck video
Maybe some of the guys meant header extensions extensions instead of collector can get them confused. Maybe try slowing the front shocks down a bit.Truck sounds great. Glad you're not too far away from big chief that guy can figure about anything out. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching. I will try tightening the front.
Always learn something!!.truck sounds Good! Wish you had more time too run the truck and your shop.
Take Eric!
God Bless you and your 👪
Me too.
Did you try adding timing...... might have been worth a little
No. I read the plugs and they looked perfect.
@@WeingartnerRacing good deal
Just a suggestion on your suspension. Looks like you have a little bit of leap frog going on. I think there is probably 3 or 4 hundredths on your 60' if you tighten you tighten your rebound to slow down the front end rise on launch. Could gain .08 or so on the run. Worth a try.
I am going try to do that because it does leap off the line.
Have you tried E85?
No
I think leave rpm is hurting it some. Lower I have had better results. 4000 or so that with a 6000 converter.
It went faster when I left higher.
I think that the truck runs great. I’ve seen 434 in s-10’s not run any better. Lots of good information here and yes, methanol is the way to go!
Thanks
Hey great video. Didn't see on any other video if you have ever tried short shifting it to get better ET. With that extra torque may see some changes. I know it's a comparison video but I was just curious. The converter does seem a little mismatched for this combo.
I shifted higher in this video and it went faster so I don’t think short shifting is going to make it faster.
60 FT I8S WEAK 1.5 IS 7.99 1/8 DRIVE A STAANG OR CHASE THEM WHAT ENGINE MATTERS NOT
I have yet to see a 7.99 car run a 1.52 60ft. Maybe it’s just me but even the Wallace racing calculations don’t show that.
Awesome stuff man. Now it's time to give those radials another try. Go for a 10.6x
I have thought about it.
Mark builds a nice carb.
Yes he does.
In the mechanical injection side we always said make it so fat that it flutters then steal 2 jets. That's always been a great start point. With all the added o2 in the fuel you can add fuel to the point it will wash the rings and still run a dang good pass. Instead of running a 12ish afr we ran something like 5.5-6.2
I’m on the gas scale on the o2 not methanol scale.
Fun thing with methanol is that when you get it to fat it just doesn't run kinda like a 30 year old junk carb with a bad accelerator pump. We just keep adding pills till it stumbles back it down a couple and go. It is so forgiving. I love it.
It'll produce best torque
Something to try is getting the truck temp higher. I found running alcohol it likes a warm engine and more timing
I may try to get it to 180 next time but I doubt it gets there.
COLLECTORS SHOULD BE TUNED TO STOP REVERSION USE 4 COLLECTORS MERGING INTO A ANTI REVERSION BOX TUBES
I have merge collectors
Whats the race weight?
3200
That was interesting. Any plans to try E85?
No. It seems pointless
Thanks for the videos Eric 🙏 your truck is awesome !
Thanks
You made a lot of changes to the carb to run methanol. If you didnt gain 50 horseoff methanol you have something definitely wrong on your set up. On my dirt car I have 50 horsepower more on methanol and that's dyno proven .
The more efficient a combination the less it will gain in power with methanol especially higher rpm. It does gain torque though.
@@WeingartnerRacing I have been running methanol in my dirt modified for years , and have had my engines dyno run on both methanol and race fuel . What you are saying is totally not true . You have something totally wrong with your engine . Race gas produces more torque and methanol always produces more horsepower . Methanol also makes your engine run way cool . I'm talking 30 + years of experience with methanol and 5 track championships .
@@darwinfoster7420 you might have championships but you are wrong about the horsepower and torque. Your volumetric efficiency goes down with methanol because it takes up more area in the port. So in an engine that is high rpm with highly efficient heads you lose power with meth. Torque always goes up because it cools the charge. However it lowers the rpm peak of torque for the same reason. You don’t have to believe me you can call any engine builder that builds 800-1000 sbc or bbc that make over 1200 and ask them. They will say the same.
@@WeingartnerRacing if you say so but your 355 isnt close to 800horse power . And I dont need to ask an engine builder I build engines and dyno them on my own dyno .you can keep listening to engine masters or whoever you listen to . I will continue to leave you in the dust .
@@darwinfoster7420 you are correct but it is a high rpm engine. I’m glad you have a dyno but look at the highest horsepower engines none of them run methanol. Q16 not methanol. I wish what you are saying is true but I haven’t witnessed it and I have been involved in many dyno sessions.
That under hood temperature is killing your engine power. I tried a K&N velocity stack on a flat hood and it improved.2 tenths in the 1/4.
Methanol burns slower and is self originated so the richer it is (within reason) the more torque it will make. It’s not rich enough if it’s not burning your eyes and nose lol.
You can purchase scented oil additives for methanol to help with the stinging plus it helps keep the aluminum fuel fittings from getting eaten away by the methanol.
(Been there done that). Best of luck
I took off the air cleaner before and it slowed down.
I use a top lube with methanol that is grape scented.
@@WeingartnerRacing the velocity stack I used stuck out of the hood grabbing cool air. If you can somehow do the same like NASCAR for example or pro stock now a days this would definitely help with E.T.s
Thanks for sharing 👍 that was a lot of testing and great information 👍 👏, Like your 🚚
You are welcome
Shifted on time last pass i think! Boy you got a slick paint job! The lower you shifted the faster it went! Thats where all the diff was! PS. Have you drained the oil yet & vaped it off at 180 to see what it looks like? Plus see whats on floor of pan for me? Boy its fling! What was the da by the way? We use brad penn & was getting blackish brown sludge so went bought m1 vp gonna try to see if it changes it or if its just a meth thing? Could be a top lube thing! Need help! Do you have a data logger, could of just sounded like it!
It went faster when I shifted higher. I did look at the oil and its not milky but its time for a change anyway.
@@WeingartnerRacing cool! My pan traps a good bit below the drain! Been looking for a good pan wt ps dip stick for a stroker crank for awhile!
Eric, did you upgrade your fuel pump? Do you have a g meter in your system? A loose rule of thumb is 8 psi of fuel pressure is lost for every 1 g of acceleration. So for example if you are pulling 2 g’s of acceleration and have 16 psi of fuel pressure, the fuel will literally stop in the line for a moment and I have seen many layover issues caused by this issue and people always think their pump is strong enough and never is.
Just an FYI also, many running methanol have the tank in the front that helps prevent this issue. You could try running a small temp tank for single runs to test it. Of course just make sure you have all the needed safety fire equipment. That stuff burns invisible!
I have a pressure sensor with at the regulator so I data log pressure. It stayed at 5.2 which is fine.
Busting up going thru the lights. Maybe Rev limit?
It was on the rev limiter because I over drive the finish line.
Nice work! You shared a ton of information that people can learn from.
I hope to see some testing done while you’re headed toward the rich side.
I’ve been around these circumstances several times and it’s always fun to see seemingly small changes deliver such large results.
I do not think you’re crowding anything for area on the intake side.
Just a maybe on the exhaust side for methanol. I’d like to see some easy changes made on that side. Maybe a tighter lash, rocker ratio change. I could be out in left field with that idea.
I doubt I mess with lash but I may mess with shocks and jetting next.
always love that blue of the c10
Good stuff, Eric! Very interesting. You mentioned the possible loss of power due to the methanol evaporation caused by heat. I was wondering if using something like the Snow Performance boost cooler would help with that. I know it is a mix of water and methanol, and I have seen good results with gas engines, both NA and boosted. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! o7
PS: You really have to speak to your cameraman(woman) about filming the burnouts! LOL! At least we got to see one of them though!
That was my son filming and yea he missed that.
Methanol boils at 140F.
-- I don't think methanol evaporation is really what gets us. When the fuel hits a surface above its boiling point, the fuel converts from liquid phase to gas phase and occupies more space that would otherwise be occupied by useful air.
-- I have a theory on how to test this. A small block chevy with standard valve angles will lose more power at the top end where the horsepower is already beginning to decline. This implies that the fuel is hitting the head and cylinders due to all of their crooked geometry. The mid-range power is probably killer though, because the fuel is kept suspended in the air and has time to exchange heat.
Fuel injection works better and less maintenance. Also check exhaust temperature should be around 1200
Yes at 10k for a good setup. 10k could get me a liberty transmission.
@@WeingartnerRacing Ron's racing flying toilet mechanical fuel injection about 2 grand works perfectly raced one on my roadster for years. Won many races never a problem. Probably be alittle quicker too.
@@garywhiplash8952 I cant see spending 2k on the Ron’s when this works good. I don’t think it would be faster either.
Add sea level air and hold on!
I bet it will be more consistent in this heat on the methanol.
It sure kept it cooler.
I would think for a engine that’s only 355 cid and running 124 mph that carburetor on methanol are gas is way to big it would more than likely run quicker and faster with only a 750 methanol carburetor.
I tried a smaller carb it went slower.
Really I race a 1972 stock eliminator mustang with 351 cleveland and it has 780 vs and car weighs 3500 # and in bad air 3500 ft plus runs 10:70 at 124 are so and in Las Vegas it runs10:80 about 120.
All I was saying is that maybe the carburetor is to large and I just have you an example of car/engine with a smaller carburetor that runs quicker.And that it was not to criticize what you are doing.
@@alvinwilliamson2461 I’m not upset and I understand where you are coming from. I believed that too because the internet said that same thing. So I went from a 830cfm to the current 1000cfm and it gained .12. On the dyno on almost every motor with the exception of one going bigger made more power and torque everywhere.
Any thoughts as to what gains you might gain if you squeezed the methanol 14 to 1?
It would be a guess but maybe 30
@@WeingartnerRacing Thanks