I got the centrifugal clutch bearing based on your information and that fitted great. Any chance you can remember what the pillow block inserts were and/or who stocked them? Thanks!
It was a long time ago, what I know is that I still have the inserts in my bearing box, the pillow blocks had loosened up a bit, so in the end I replaced the whole lot. Blocks and bearings. They are fairly cheap. I think it was a 1" pillow block on the flail and on the jack shaft, and a 3/4" shaft through bronze bushings on the jackshaft to the roller drive. But that is based on memory. I think I replaced the Bronze with 3/4" pillow blocks too. I can remember buying a bit of ground round steel for a shaft, can't remember which one. Something to do with the fitting of a Honda engine.
@@bootsowen restoration, more like rustoration really just want it running nicely not into making it look pretty... Haven't really touched it since last year; leaning towards doing the flail bearings and chucking a Honda in it just to make my life easier at this point. Will certainly keep the B&S engine just in case I decide to improve the compression on it and put it back in one day. I switched it to an identical new old stock B&S carb and it still didn't seem to be delivering the 6hp it was supposed to so I'm assuming rings etc. It had taken a bit of a back seat since I picked up a TVO David Brown 25 with a much larger PTO flail to mow my paddock. That and being laid up with a hernia through all the CCP virus shinanigans.
@@JunkmailAccount Ooh, a hernia, yikes! I have 3 Brotts at the moment, the only one running is the one with the Honda GX. I bought aftermarket replacement carbs for the Briggs engines and points etc. Grumpy old engines. The most recent one has a 12 hp electric start briggs in it. I haven't tried it, it's a 202 Brott. Too many videos to make!
@@bootsowen do those aftermarket carbs have the proper linkage to the governor such that you can open it up and they don't over rev? I currently have two working carbs for that engine (because the N/OS one didn't make any difference).
I guess they want you to sing and dance along with removing bearings lol Hey I'm fixing to do the exact thing with 2 pillow block bearings on my grasshopper I sprayed them with PB Blaster overnight because they were so stuck on with rust and dirt. Why don't you try some PB blaster before you start on the removal it makes a serious difference for me. Great job though on the video I got a lot of info on how to remove the main pulley I'm going to look for a set screw I don't think mine has one but it could be rusted over & I didn't see it. The key is just stuck big time. Thanks John
Dammit. I need a two jaw.
I have one stuck in an exhaust fan. I couldn’t get the three jaw to fit quite right.
Use my link to Amazon?
I got the centrifugal clutch bearing based on your information and that fitted great. Any chance you can remember what the pillow block inserts were and/or who stocked them? Thanks!
It was a long time ago, what I know is that I still have the inserts in my bearing box, the pillow blocks had loosened up a bit, so in the end I replaced the whole lot. Blocks and bearings. They are fairly cheap. I think it was a 1" pillow block on the flail and on the jack shaft, and a 3/4" shaft through bronze bushings on the jackshaft to the roller drive. But that is based on memory. I think I replaced the Bronze with 3/4" pillow blocks too. I can remember buying a bit of ground round steel for a shaft, can't remember which one. Something to do with the fitting of a Honda engine.
How's your restoration going?
@@bootsowen restoration, more like rustoration really just want it running nicely not into making it look pretty... Haven't really touched it since last year; leaning towards doing the flail bearings and chucking a Honda in it just to make my life easier at this point.
Will certainly keep the B&S engine just in case I decide to improve the compression on it and put it back in one day. I switched it to an identical new old stock B&S carb and it still didn't seem to be delivering the 6hp it was supposed to so I'm assuming rings etc.
It had taken a bit of a back seat since I picked up a TVO David Brown 25 with a much larger PTO flail to mow my paddock.
That and being laid up with a hernia through all the CCP virus shinanigans.
@@JunkmailAccount Ooh, a hernia, yikes! I have 3 Brotts at the moment, the only one running is the one with the Honda GX. I bought aftermarket replacement carbs for the Briggs engines and points etc. Grumpy old engines. The most recent one has a 12 hp electric start briggs in it. I haven't tried it, it's a 202 Brott. Too many videos to make!
@@bootsowen do those aftermarket carbs have the proper linkage to the governor such that you can open it up and they don't over rev? I currently have two working carbs for that engine (because the N/OS one didn't make any difference).
why is this so much quiet ?
Sounds ok to me, what do you mean?
I guess they want you to sing and dance along with removing bearings lol Hey I'm fixing to do the exact thing with 2 pillow block bearings on my grasshopper I sprayed them with PB Blaster overnight because they were so stuck on with rust and dirt. Why don't you try some PB blaster before you start on the removal it makes a serious difference for me. Great job though on the video I got a lot of info on how to remove the main pulley I'm going to look for a set screw I don't think mine has one but it could be rusted over & I didn't see it. The key is just stuck big time. Thanks John