Oh the fun of playing with leaf packs, I'm in it on my yj as well, need just a little more capacity but not lift for s bandaid till i can afford to go to the next step. 😂
When I did the rear brakes on my TJ I found that the caliper holder brackets were a bit long and did the same thing you are seeing, I cut the brackets back off and trimmed them down about 3/16" and welded them back on. I ended up getting a second set of brackets for a smaller caliper and did a double caliper setup for hydraulic e-brake/drag brakes. For my YJ build I found a newer axle that came with factory brakes and will be reusing them, heck the pads it came with were brand new, the truck I pulled this thing out of just had a brake job before someone t-boned it. The traction bar I made for my S-10 had a QA1 heim joint on the top so you could adjust it, food for thought on future versions.
Yeah I’ve got a few options I thought about some cutting brakes but that’s kind of useless until I get front dig. I don’t know whose brand this kit was whether it’s rough stuff or whatever so I don’t really have a way to identify the rotors. I know some trucks have two options for rotors one will be slightly bigger so who knows. Either way I’ll dig into it at some point
Lowering for bigger tires is test of patience for sure. Heres a couple ideas thats worked for me. When I put new springpads on the axle I ground the saddle area down until the the leaf springs centerpin bolt just cleared the axle tube. That was good for 1/2" - 3/4" depending upon your spring pad. And on the solid leaf spring hanger without the shackle I drilled a new hole for the leaf spring an inch higher. Its good for another 1/2 inch of lowering. At the same time it will rotate the pinion up just a little bit which eliminates the need for some degree shims YMMV. With the hole an inch higher into the hanger my military wrap still doesnt contact the frame at all. On the shackle end I put new shackle mounts on the frame and ground them down to fit as close the the bottom of the frame as I could. That was good for another 1/2" This got me 1 1/2" of lowering before changing any of my spring rates.
those are all solid methods and I already considered the first 2, Plan was to do 1 step at a time and I am quite happy with where it ended up for now. when I get the front 60 in I may be stretching it forward more and lowering just a touch with the spring mounts, then ill adjust the rear as needed. Long term the plan is to keep the front leaves and 4 link the rear but thats probably a few years off, not a priority
@@FlawedOffroad It was a bit painstaking but I wanted to see the difference at each point. Tons more work then lifting. Was SOA, stretched with waggys and a homebrew 'hiline'. Waaaay too tall. Could probably clear 42s. So I started the lowering process. Started the process with a totally flat belly and raising the gas tank 3 1/2 inches. Its a bit of work but I still have a back seat for the kids.
@@joshuaatkins5197 my gas tank is tucked as well with a custom HD skid I found at a swap meet, i chopped it shorter and raised the tank till its basically touching the tub. I have a 1" body lift but its too much hassle to remove it. so many things would have to get modified(the tank, roll cage tie ins, fan shroud, etc etc) so its staying. although I have a fuel cell in the garage I toyed with sinking it through the floor in the back to be able to keep the rear seat and not give up the only little storage I have
I've heard that if all you have is a hammer everything starts looking like a nail, I'm not sure how to put it when you use everything as a hammer but don't hit a nail 😂
Oh and technically they are 3/4 tons haha. I have the Dana 60 front in pieces in the garage, it was meant to be last winters project but I didn’t make it very far with the injury
@FlawedOffroad my D60 is in pieces in my garage too. Got everything I need to put it back together, just need to find the time. Going in the Samurai though!
@@FortuneOffRoad Pretty sure I have most of what I need, have to setup the locker/gears. The biggest issue is deciding how Im doing the steering, I came up with a wild idea that I think will work and accomplish a few things but man its alot of work and no turning back sort of deal. Basically behind the knuckle tierod, but using a double ended ram as the tierod/ hydro assist. still want to tun a drag link. If I can make it work right then I can stretch the front farther without the pitman arm/drag link hitting the tierod that would normally be on the front.( I have already maxed out what I can stretch with it how it is now)
I had it for sale for a while and I honestly got sick of dealing with the idiots that were contacting me so I pulled the listing for a while. The plan is still to sell it but I’ve actually been using it a little bit also. I kind of like the thing if I’m being honest but I’d rather use the money toward getting my Land Rover back in action
Not a stand alone video but somewhere I showed parts of it in some old videos. playlist on my channel called dana 44/60 swap probably 4-5 videos into that playlist maybe?
8.8 generally cheaper and easier to find. 95-01 explorer 31 spline shafts, can get it in 4.10 gears (I think there’s a match for any stock yj gear)I had one for 7-8 years in the yj before the Dana 60. Any 44 you find that’s same width is gonna be from a tj or something with coils. Some izuzu rodeo have a d44. Harder to find
Don't forget the c clip Eliminator. The 8.8 won't have it. I got my Dana 44 out of a the back of a Cherokee. They're not common but they're out there too. You'll have to move spring and shock mounts just like most of the others. The width is perfect for a yj as well as the lug pattern.
Better than it was, but forever damaged. I’ve got some chronic issues in there that I’ve never really discussed. I have to police myself to not overdo it every day for the rest of my life lol
man I found that people dont have an attention span longer than 45 seconds, I really stopped making longer videos and have just been doing shorts lately.
Website is now LIVE! flawedoffroad.com/
Man you have done a lot of work over the years on your Jeep. Definitely an awesome machine. Thanks for posting 😊👍
Sure have, 11 years worth of messing around with it. Thanks for stopping in
Oh the fun of playing with leaf packs, I'm in it on my yj as well, need just a little more capacity but not lift for s bandaid till i can afford to go to the next step. 😂
When I did the rear brakes on my TJ I found that the caliper holder brackets were a bit long and did the same thing you are seeing, I cut the brackets back off and trimmed them down about 3/16" and welded them back on. I ended up getting a second set of brackets for a smaller caliper and did a double caliper setup for hydraulic e-brake/drag brakes. For my YJ build I found a newer axle that came with factory brakes and will be reusing them, heck the pads it came with were brand new, the truck I pulled this thing out of just had a brake job before someone t-boned it.
The traction bar I made for my S-10 had a QA1 heim joint on the top so you could adjust it, food for thought on future versions.
Yeah I’ve got a few options I thought about some cutting brakes but that’s kind of useless until I get front dig. I don’t know whose brand this kit was whether it’s rough stuff or whatever so I don’t really have a way to identify the rotors. I know some trucks have two options for rotors one will be slightly bigger so who knows.
Either way I’ll dig into it at some point
Lowering for bigger tires is test of patience for sure.
Heres a couple ideas thats worked for me. When I put new springpads on the axle I ground the saddle area down until the the leaf springs centerpin bolt just cleared the axle tube. That was good for 1/2" - 3/4" depending upon your spring pad. And on the solid leaf spring hanger without the shackle I drilled a new hole for the leaf spring an inch higher. Its good for another 1/2 inch of lowering. At the same time it will rotate the pinion up just a little bit which eliminates the need for some degree shims YMMV. With the hole an inch higher into the hanger my military wrap still doesnt contact the frame at all. On the shackle end I put new shackle mounts on the frame and ground them down to fit as close the the bottom of the frame as I could. That was good for another 1/2"
This got me 1 1/2" of lowering before changing any of my spring rates.
those are all solid methods and I already considered the first 2, Plan was to do 1 step at a time and I am quite happy with where it ended up for now. when I get the front 60 in I may be stretching it forward more and lowering just a touch with the spring mounts, then ill adjust the rear as needed. Long term the plan is to keep the front leaves and 4 link the rear but thats probably a few years off, not a priority
@@FlawedOffroad It was a bit painstaking but I wanted to see the difference at each point. Tons more work then lifting. Was SOA, stretched with waggys and a homebrew 'hiline'. Waaaay too tall. Could probably clear 42s. So I started the lowering process. Started the process with a totally flat belly and raising the gas tank 3 1/2 inches. Its a bit of work but I still have a back seat for the kids.
@@joshuaatkins5197 my gas tank is tucked as well with a custom HD skid I found at a swap meet, i chopped it shorter and raised the tank till its basically touching the tub. I have a 1" body lift but its too much hassle to remove it. so many things would have to get modified(the tank, roll cage tie ins, fan shroud, etc etc) so its staying. although I have a fuel cell in the garage I toyed with sinking it through the floor in the back to be able to keep the rear seat and not give up the only little storage I have
@@FlawedOffroad the struggle is real man 🍻
Thanks for the back saver tip.
2 wheel dolly/hand truck works even better that’s what I use at work for anything over 35s
U got a lot of weird hammers 😂 and I have the Same thought after working on my jeep just did all new power steering
Been hoping someone would comment on my variety of hammers haha
I've heard that if all you have is a hammer everything starts looking like a nail, I'm not sure how to put it when you use everything as a hammer but don't hit a nail 😂
Jealous of the tons and 40s! I didnt catch it, what springs are you using?
Wagoneer 7 leaf from general spring. That was a mistake on my part way too stiff being new. They had a 4 and 5 leaf option too
Oh and technically they are 3/4 tons haha. I have the Dana 60 front in pieces in the garage, it was meant to be last winters project but I didn’t make it very far with the injury
@FlawedOffroad my D60 is in pieces in my garage too. Got everything I need to put it back together, just need to find the time. Going in the Samurai though!
@@FortuneOffRoad Pretty sure I have most of what I need, have to setup the locker/gears. The biggest issue is deciding how Im doing the steering, I came up with a wild idea that I think will work and accomplish a few things but man its alot of work and no turning back sort of deal. Basically behind the knuckle tierod, but using a double ended ram as the tierod/ hydro assist. still want to tun a drag link. If I can make it work right then I can stretch the front farther without the pitman arm/drag link hitting the tierod that would normally be on the front.( I have already maxed out what I can stretch with it how it is now)
@@FlawedOffroad sounds like a unique setup! I'll have the popcorn ready to watch the show 🤘🏻
I got my jeep sitting on the 14 bolt and got my jb super sye put in yesterday. I'm trying to catch ya.
Nice! Progress is progress
@@FlawedOffroad thanks. I wanna get the motobilt full width kit welded on the front before I freeze outside lol
Dan, what are the plans for the burgundy Rubicon? I thought you had sold it to finance other projects.
I had it for sale for a while and I honestly got sick of dealing with the idiots that were contacting me so I pulled the listing for a while. The plan is still to sell it but I’ve actually been using it a little bit also. I kind of like the thing if I’m being honest but I’d rather use the money toward getting my Land Rover back in action
Where did you get your tail lights. I would love to get some.for my self. I just have regular red rounds
amzn.to/45hEknA best part they are surface mount so you dont have to cut a 4" hole in the tub
Do you have a video on your rear anti wrap bar?
Not a stand alone video but somewhere I showed parts of it in some old videos. playlist on my channel called dana 44/60 swap probably 4-5 videos into that playlist maybe?
Preciate all your vidjas
Just wanted to hear your opinion on something. I blew my stock dana 35 diff and was wondering if i should go with a dana 44 or a 8.8 ford rear end?
8.8 generally cheaper and easier to find. 95-01 explorer 31 spline shafts, can get it in 4.10 gears (I think there’s a match for any stock yj gear)I had one for 7-8 years in the yj before the Dana 60.
Any 44 you find that’s same width is gonna be from a tj or something with coils. Some izuzu rodeo have a d44. Harder to find
Don't forget the c clip Eliminator. The 8.8 won't have it.
I got my Dana 44 out of a the back of a Cherokee. They're not common but they're out there too. You'll have to move spring and shock mounts just like most of the others. The width is perfect for a yj as well as the lug pattern.
How's your back?
Better than it was, but forever damaged. I’ve got some chronic issues in there that I’ve never really discussed. I have to police myself to not overdo it every day for the rest of my life lol
man I found that people dont have an attention span longer than 45 seconds, I really stopped making longer videos and have just been doing shorts lately.
to me shorts are for killing time on the shi*ter at work. i prefer watching actual videos for entertainment and ill continue to make them that way too
ruclips.net/video/wTn3DFBXh_M/видео.html. hair in the creeper 19:19 ... I know that feeling... 😬
The struggle…. Happens at work all the time too. I could just cut it off😂